Destinations

Photo Journal: Pétion-Ville

May 7, 2020 by Anton Lau

man walking in hotel area with parasols and lounge chairs — Passerby at Hotel NH Haiti El Rancho, Pétion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Photo Journal: Pétion-Ville

As one of the busiest cities and commercial areas of the Ouest department, Pétion-Ville is very well known for its hustle and bustle — and yet still makes room to find peace in its everyday rhythm.

Pétion-Ville benefits from being between the residential area of Pelerin and the larger commercial areas of downtown Port-au-Prince and Delmas. It is a place in between, but with a life of its own.

red vintage car in port-au-prince — Street life in Pétion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

In the mornings, after rush hour, the area is a delight to observe. Free from the traffic of frantic parents and children trying to get to work and school, Pétion-Ville sheds a layer and public squares like Place Saint-Pierre or Place Boyer come alive.

white church building in petion-ville — Saint-Pierre Church
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Across the street from the church of the same name, Place Saint-Pierre is where many people sit for lunch, a conversation, or just a leisurely stroll in the late morning and early afternoon.

man sitting next to a parked bmx bike in public square — A bike rider takes a break in the shade at Place Saint-Pierre
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

When school is in session, the students from Lycée Pétion-Ville will sometimes venture outside of the playground and play in the park. Some ride bikes, some play tag, and others enjoy their lunch before they head back to class.

haitian boys in school uniforms on bmx bikes — Students riding bikes at Place Saint-Pierre
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Pétion-Ville is a city of colors, sometimes peeking from between trees, and some other times in bold display as a background to street vendors of food, electronics, and every day household items.

sandals on display on a tiled wall — Sandals displayed for sale in front of bright mosaics
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Should you be in the area, you should definitely try some fresko, or shaved ice while you venture through the city. A very affordable treat, it’s particularly delicious with roasted peanuts on top!

vendor pouring syrup on shaved ice — A fresko vendor pouring passionfruit syrup on shaved ice
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

When you first go through Pétion-Ville, the idea of it being a peaceful city may seem a bit odd — but once you take your time to experience it, maybe on foot, you start to understand that cities don’t just happen to be peaceful, they are made that way.

three haitians sitting on grass lawn talking — A small group sits in the shade to chat at Place Saint-Pierre
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Pétion-Ville radiates a different energy at night. A favorite food and drink pit-stop for party-goers, both before and after an event, it seems to shed its daytime shine to reveal a soft but lively nighttime glow.

night time traffic by gas station — Bird’s eye view from the top of the Royal Oasis Hotel
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Dondon grottoes

April 21, 2020 by admin

view from inside a cave with vines in entrance — View of Dondon from inside a grotto
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dondon grottoes

Located in the mountains of northern Haiti, Dondon has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno peoples lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

vodou symbol painted on a cave floor — Vodou vèvè inside a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

The grottoes

Dondon’s spectacular cave system has ten separate grottoes. Some are easy to access and have a given name: Ladies’ Vault, Marc-Antoine grotto, Smoke Vault, Cadelia Vault, Saint Martin Vault, Minguet Vault and Michel grotto, all named because of their individual history.

Some of these caves were Taíno cult locations during the pre-colombian period, where the Taínos would come to pray to their gods. One of the gods prayed to in times of drought is still visible on the walls of the grotto, and in post-colonial times is venerated by vodouwizan as an important figure within vodou. The other grottoes remain unnamed, their histories steeped in mystery.

Guided tours

Many Dondon area locals – young and old – are happy to jump into the role of guide for the grottoes. Some have learned by heart formulas in French and English, which can make for charming – if confusing – conversation.

Experienced and impromptu guides will be more than happy to help you discover the best spots, hidden petroglyphs and the history infusing these grottoes – some of this history only survives as stories handed down from generation to generation, so you won’t find it anywhere else.

haitian man sitting on donkey drinking in river — A man on a donkey by Riviere Bouyaja in Dondon
Photo: Anton Lau

Festivals in Dondon

Every town in Haiti has its own patron saint festival. In Dondon, pilgrims come from far and wide to celebrate Saint Martin of Tours. Some come here to party, others come as tourists to observe, but most are here to honor the Vodou divinities, the lwa believed to live here. The patron saint festival of Saint Martin of Tours happens in Dondon on November 9 – 11, but party preparations start on November 7. For five days, crowds filter into Dondon to savor kleren, eat delicious griot, and dance to troubadour music from morning ‘til night.

There is also the Dondon Festival, held from July 18 to 23. This festival is about Dondon itself rather than lwa, and draws vacationers who come to take advantage of the great swimming spots in nearby rivers, go on excursions and participate in the conferences that take place for the occasion.

What else is nearby?

Dondon is close to the UNESCO World Heritage Sans-Souci Palace and Citadelle Laferrière, which locals call the eighth wonder of the world. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any visit to Haiti, and the journey there is well-worth the effort.

Fort Moïse, on top of the Saint Martin Vault, is also close by. Other attractions include the Kota waterfall and the historical Vincent Ogé residence. The on-site coffee co-op at the residence is a great place to taste the very particular flavor of Haitian coffee.

cave entrance with vines and trees — Overgrown entrance to a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to the Dondon grottoes

Dondon is located in the north of Haiti, about a two hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien. The journey to Dondon will take you over roads that are winding and can be pretty rough in places. On paper (or GPS), the route through the town of Saint-Michel might look good, but that road serves up more adventure than most travellers are looking for, and we don’t recommended it. The best way to get to Dondon we’ve found is this one:

From Port-au-Prince, drive out of the capital towards Cap-Haïtien via Route Nationale #1. The road to Cap-Haïtien makes up the longest chunk of the drive, but its recent completion makes it a comfortable trip, not to mention a scenic one, with many towns to stop in along the way, each with their own character. Once in Cap-Haïtien, continue towards the town of Milot. Make a left after you pass Rivière du Nord, and in another hour or so you’ll arrive at Dondon.

There’s no formal fee to see the caves but you’ll need to hire a (formal or informal) guide. Remember to bring food and drinks with you for the trip as there’s no guarantee you’ll find anything on site, although Lakou Lakay is a great place to stop for lunch if you’re travelling via Milot.

Written by Jean Fils and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2020

Find the Dondon grottoes

External Links

Learn more about Dondon

Wikipedia

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Photo Journal: Marigot

April 14, 2020 by admin

aerial view of port with boats and people — Port of Marigot, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Photo Journal: Marigot

One hour east of the seaside city of Jacmel, the municipality of Marigot sits right between the edge of the water and an important element of everyday people’s lives.

Marigot’s farmers’ market is a salient feature of the village. An important pulse point, the market only operates on Saturdays. Boats arriving from Anse-à-Pitre dock at the port hours before the sun rises over the village.

large wooden boat with haitians on the open ocean — Boat arriving from Anse-à-Pitres to Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

The boats are a great way to kill two birds with one stone. On the one hand, they carry goods to Marigot, and on the other, because road conditions are awful, they facilitate the transportation of passengers.

group of haitians stading on wharf with boats — People waiting on the wharf in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

These boats carry people heading to or from places like Savane Zonbi, Thiotte, Anse-à-Pitres, or the Dominican Republic.

large wooden boats with haitians docking on beach — Boat from Anse-à-Pitres docking in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

The scene at the port is both very Haitian and extremely picturesque. Nimble and hardworking men move packages off the boats and onto the docks.

man standing on boat pulling a large rope — A man mooring a boat in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Wading through water up to their chests, they balance very large sacks of coal, heavy coolers stuffed with fish, and even stacks of packed cardboard boxes on their heads.

two haitians weighing fish at market — People working at the fish market in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

From the docks, all these packages are loaded onto trucks headed to other cities, but– careful! These workers move fast, and need you to be out of their way. There’s no time to waste!

a fish market in haiti with many people — The fish market in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

The coolers of fish are taken to the nearby fish market; an open building located just a short walk from the wharf. This is where fish is weighed and priced.

People unloading goods from the boats
Photo: Franck Fontain

As any farmers’ market in Haiti, haggling is a must, and commotion is everywhere; from fish vendors to other merchants crisscrossing the building.

to haitian men sitting on a stony beach with boats — Two men watching the boats being unloaded
Photo: Franck Fontain

Large amounts of fish and seafood in Marigot regularly make their way to plates in Port-au-Prince, as middlemen come to stock up for the capital’s restaurants every week.

aerial view of coastal village with market area and boats — Sun rising over the port of Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Explore Jérémie

February 6, 2020 by admin

haitian man and woman posing behind a rocking chair — Nansky & Gina at their guesthouse in Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Explore Jérémie

At the end of a 180-mile journey west along Haiti’s southern peninsula, Jérémie is a busy coastal town with mountains cascading at its back. A city full of history and character, you’ll want to dedicate a couple of days to fully explore.

If you’ve travelled through the north of Haiti before (especially driving from Port-au-Prince to Cap-Haïtien through Mirebalais) the drive to Jérémie is reminiscent of watching Lake Péligre peek from between the curves in the road. The Grand’Anse river that gives this part of Haiti its name courses from its birthplace in the Pic Macaya National Park down through mountains to where it meets the sea just south of the town of Jérémie.

The Grand’Anse is the reason Jérémie was founded, and is important as a direct source of irrigation for fields and livestock. The communities that live and work all along the river are diverse, but through the river all are connected into a long, narrow, close-knit neighborhood.

Way out west, Jérémie boasts a self-possessed rural charm, a sort of independence from the rest of the island, and a kind of defiance in the face of time. In Jérémie, centuries-old traditions are still alive today, side-by-side with the modernity of a 21st century Haiti.

interior of church during service — Inside the Saint Louis King of France cathedral, Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Top attractions in Jérémie

Anse d’Azur – A spectacular sandy bay with a sunken German U-boat and a gorgeous cave system, Anse d’Azur is as picturesque as the very best of Caribbean beaches (minus the crowds).

Saint Louis King of France cathedral – The same romanticism in Jérémie’s literature infuses its architecture. If reading the works of Jérémie’s writers has inspired you, or if you’re into architecture or design, you’ll want to see the city’s Saint Louis King of France Cathedral (French: Cathédrale Saint-Louis-Roi-de-France de Jérémie). Built on the site of an ancient temple that burned down in 1874, the Cathedral is an imposing deep-red with white detail, pulling together elements of Haitian architecture familiar to travellers who have seen Port-au-Prince’s Gingerbread Houses, Iron Market, or the cathedral of Hinche.

Patron saint festival of Saint Louis – The Cathedral really shines during the month of August, when Jérémie gears up to celebrate the patron saint festival of Saint Louis King of France on the 25th. The city and surrounding parish come alive in prayer, festivities, and good times all around.

Kay Gina & Nansky – Being in Jérémie during the summertime is a great opportunity to visit Kay Gina & Nansky! Art-lovers Gina and Nansky have successfully curated a space that feels like both an altar and an exhibition, featuring artworks created by Haitian artists from Jérémie, Jacmel, Port-au-Prince and other cities right across Haiti. They also offer the opportunity to stay with them at their guest house, for $30 a night; the nice clean rooms are 10 minutes away from an amazing, immersive local experience in town, and breakfast can be tacked onto your stay for a small additional fee. Kay Gina & Nansky is a great place to get a quick bite of traditional carnival foods such as beignets—sweet banana fritters. A must-visit if you’re in town during any patron saint festival or kanival.

older haitian man in white shirt and black pants — Old man in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

City of Poets

Jérémie has produced some of Haiti’s most prominent figures of literature, earning it the nickname of “the City of Poets”. Poets Émile Roumer and Jean-Fernand Brierre, as well as Alexandre Dumas’ father, all hailed from the City of Poets, and carried Haitian literature far and wide with them wherever they or their works set foot. Jérémie became a literary powerhouse that would later come to surpass the capital and inspire writers across the young Haitian nation. You’ll see plenty of monuments to poets and poetry while you’re here.

haitian house with pool and balcony — Makay Villa in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Where to sleep

This far southwest, you won’t any all-inclusive resorts, but Jérémie is full of AirBnB options. By far, the best of these is Place Charmant; just a few minutes of driving away from downtown Jérémie, it sits atop a hill with an outstanding view overlooking the bay. Here, you can enjoy dipping in the large pool while using the city’s most reliable WiFi. Place Charmant’s rooms start at $80 per night, breakfast and dinner included.

If you’re travelling in a group, Makay Villa is ideal. With a pool overlooking a small bay, and access to a small semi-private beach, it’s a great place to call home during your stay in Jérémie.

haitian konparet cakes being baked in oven — Konparèt bakery in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Must-try Flavors

You can’t trek the six-hour drive to Jérémie and not try its local specialty: konparèt. A rich, dense, almost pound-cake-like sweet biscuit, konparèt brings together the classic Caribbean flavors of coconut and ripe bananas, as well as warming accents from West Indies spices like cinnamon and vanilla. The delicacy is ubiquitous in the town of Jérémie, but when it makes the long journey back to Port-au-Prince with visitors, it is highly coveted – no bakery anywhere else on Hispaniola can replicate the real thing from Jérémie.

Meet the Locals

Tag along with us and Wilmar Belizaire from Jérémie as we take you to her favorite places to see, sleep, and savor in the city.

Need to Know

Jérémie is a town on the western edge of Haiti’s southern peninsula, famous as a birthplace of poets and for its striking turn-of-the-century cathedral.

Anse d’Azur – this spectacular sandy bay nearby is as picturesque as the very best of Caribbean beaches (minus the crowds).

August is the best time to visit, while Jérémie gears up for the patron saint festival of Saint Louis King of France.

Kay Gina & Nansky is a great place to browse art and get a quick bite of traditional carnival foods.

Makay Villa is the best place to sleep while you’re in town.

Konparèt – the essence of the Caribbean, distilled into a cake-like cookie. Win friends and favours by bringing this coveted delicacy back to Port-au-Prince.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published February 2020

Our recommendations

Kaskad Pichon

January 25, 2020 by admin

large haitian waterfall splashing into natural pool with people swimming — Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Belle-Anse
Photo: Franck Fontain

Kaskad Pichon

Kaskad Pichon is a stunning waterfall located in the commune of Belle-Anse, in the South-East Department of Haiti. The waterfall is notoriously hard to get to, but worth the adventure.

Belle-Anse commune is home to soft, sandy beaches, and Kaskad Pichon (French: Cascade Pichon) is the crowning jewel of its inland treasures. A cluster of three separate basins, each crowned by glorious waterfalls, Kaskad Pichon is sustained not by rainfall, but an underground lake.

The waterfall runs through three separate basins: Bassin Chouket, where wild mint grows and perfumes the banks of the pool, Bassin Dieula and Bassin Marassa.

The Haitian Kreyol proverb “dèyè mòn gen mòn” reflects the Haitian landscape – “behind mountains, there are more mountains”. Once in a while, though, in between these mountains, you’ll stumble upon a hidden gem (and travellers who’ve been here before know that Haiti is full of them). One such hidden gem is Kaskad Pichon, a waterfall that is as stunningly beautiful as it is notoriously hard to get to.

Visiting Kaskad Pichon might have you snapping pictures the entire time, or putting your phone down in awe — up to you, really! However you decided to take it in, a visit to Kaskad Pichon is an intimate wilderness experience that you’ll remember for years to come.

Three travellers wading in the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti — Travellers exploring the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to Kaskad Pichon

Kaskad Pichon is remote, and to get there, adventurers need to be prepared to drive (or hire a chauffeur), ride a motorcycle, and hike.

The drive to Belle-Anse, the main town of the area, is quite a trip in and of itself, on a gravel road that passes through floodplains, riverbeds, and up steep hillsides. If you drive from Marigot the trip to Belle-Anse should take about two or three hours. The town of Belle-Anse is interesting enough to spend a morning exploring, or at least stopping for lunch to re-energize before the most rugged part of the adventure.

From Belle-Anse, you’ll need to drive to Pichon, and from there it’s another hour’s drive to Kaskad Pichon. A motorcycle ride from Pichon to the waterfall should cost you about 1,000 HTG per person (roughly US $11).

The ride up to the waterfall is part of the experience – clinging for dear life on the back of a bike, you’ll be driving through some of the most pristine wilderness Haiti has to offer, with mile upon mile of sandy white beach unwinding below the path up the mountainside. If you can plan for it with your motorcycle drivers, we highly recommend you make a quick swim stop en route to take in the beauty offered by Haiti’s south. It’s also a great opportunity to uncover some extremely instagrammable spots – you might want to plan in a little extra time for that.

After an hour-long motorcycle ride, you’ll have to hike, following a guide, for roughly 40 minutes, before reaching the waterfalls.

Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published January 2020

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Explore Pestel

January 14, 2020 by admin

sunrise over the mountains surrounding a small haitian fishing village — Sunrise over Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore Pestel

About 40 miles east of the town of Jérémie in Haiti’s Grand’Anse department, Pestel is a small harbour town full of culture, offering cinematic sunrises, sunsets and laidback charm.

From its rustic seaside markets to unique, unexpected places to explore like nearby caves and islands, Pestel is a place not to be missed if you’re touring Haiti’s southeast.

The far south of Haiti (west of Jacmel and Les Cayes) isn’t as visited by travellers as the rest of Haiti, but is just as worthy as a destination. Here are the top things to see in Pestel.

Sun rising over the seaside village of Pestel, Haiti — Sun rising over Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Wake up with sea breezes

Life in Pestel follows the rhythm of market days – Wednesdays and Saturdays. Early in the morning, you can watch sailboats coast into the city’s port, loaded up with goods from Miragoâne. As the port workers help boats dock and unload, the sea breeze wakes up the town, calling down farmers from the mountains, who supply the town with fresh fruits and vegetables carried by donkeys in saddle-like baskets woven from hay. The entire town of Pestel -house maids, matriarchs, small children sent to run errands – slowly drips into the port, ebbing and flowing between fishmongers and farmers, preparing for the weekend or the new week ahead.

If you’re visiting on market day, you’ll want to make sure that you have enough change on hand, and a reusable bag to take with you so that you can carry your market bounty home.

If you want to stay in Pestel overnight so you can wake up early and watch this gorgeous harbour town come to life, we’ve got you covered. Well and truly off the beaten tourist path, Pestel isn’t exactly crowded with accommodation options, but Madame Jacques’ guesthouse offers a comfortable place to sleep with loads of rustic charm.

Madame Jacques runs a small, simple guesthouse, not a lofty hotel, but her hospitality, loving-kindness (and cooking!) is famous around here. A Haitian mother down to the bone, Madame Jacques prides herself on taking good care of her guests, making sure that you leave her abode with an even better experience of Pestel than you expected.

Fête de la Mer – the Festival of the Sea

Pestel is also the home of Haiti’s one and only Fête de la Mer—the Festival of the Sea. For one long weekend each April, usually from Thursday to Sunday, the city of Pestel hosts various festivities, including a food fair featuring the bounty of the sea, tours to nearby grottoes and sailboat races, the whole thing interspersed with performances by popular Haitian artists.

Fête de la Mer is a great way to explore Haiti and Haitian culture, and to get outside of your city-hopping comfort zone. The Fête de la Mer usually coincides with Easter, and festival organizers will announce the confirmed dates well ahead of time.

interior of cave with massive dripstones — Interior of the Bellony grotto caves
Photo: Franck Fontain

Caves and islands

Have the caves mentioned earlier caught your attention? If they have, you already know that they are a feature of the Fête de la Mer, but if you’re planning to visit Pestel outside the month of April, the caves are still open to visitors. Wander through the cool, secluded, mystical caverns as guides lead you through the history of the caves. Feeling a bit apprehensive about going into the grottoes on your own? Tour agency Haïti Roots runs excursions to the caves, including the most well-known – the Bellony grotto.

Pestel is also a great launchpad for a tour of nearby Cayemites, a cluster of small islands offering their own unique experience. About six miles from Pestel, the Cayemites islands offer an intimate, secluded adventure. Think fine, sandy beaches melting seamlessly into crystal-clear water, with that Caribbean sunshine you’re craving as well as shade offered by the fringe of forest that leans toward the water’s edge.

secluded haitian island with forest and beach — The secluded Anse Blanche beach on Petite Cayemite island
Photo: Anton Lau

Flag of the freedom fighters

Over the last decade or so, Pestel has been the home of a slow-burning political awakening, starting around the time when former death squad leader and political man Guy Philippe was arrested in the city. The arrest brought with it winds of change, independence, and lack of tolerance for wayward governance. In that same spirit, the black and red flag of Haiti’s liberation in 1804 floats freely on a flag pole in the harbor, calmly signaling to one and to all that there is no freedom without unity in the fight for what’s right for all.

Need to Know

Pestel is a harbour town with a vibrant market, incredible sunrises, sunsets and laidback charm.

Madame Jacques’ guesthouse is the place to stay overnight to wake up with the market (Wednesday and Saturday mornings).

Cave and island tours – Haïti Roots runs tours to mystical caves including the Bellony grotto. Charter a boat trip to the Cayemites for an unparalleled exclusive beach experience.

Fête de la Mer – the Festival of the Sea is celebrated in Pestel every April.

haitian fisherman with small wooden cannoe filled with fish — Fisherman in Pestel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2020

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Destinations

Photo Journal: Pétion-Ville

As one of the busiest cities and commercial areas of the Ouest department, Pétion-Ville is very well known for its hustle and bustle — and yet still makes room to find peace in its everyday rhythm.

From Our Land to Your Home

Citadelle Henri

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Paradise for your inbox

Dondon grottoes

The grottoes

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Guided tours

Festivals in Dondon

From Our Land to Your Home

What else is nearby?

Getting to the Dondon grottoes

Find the Dondon grottoes

External Links

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Looking for some cool things to do?

Paradise for your inbox

Photo Journal: Marigot

One hour east of the seaside city of Jacmel, the municipality of Marigot sits right between the edge of the water and an important element of everyday people’s lives.

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Paradise for your inbox

Explore Jérémie

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Top attractions in Jérémie

City of Poets

Where to sleep

Must-try Flavors

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Meet the Locals

Need to Know

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Our recommendations

Paradise for your inbox

Kaskad Pichon

From Our Land to Your Home

Getting to Kaskad Pichon

From Our Land to Your Home

Find Kaskad Pichon

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Looking for some cool things to do?

Paradise for your inbox

Explore Pestel

Wake up with sea breezes

Fête de la Mer – the Festival of the Sea

Caves and islands

Flag of the freedom fighters

Need to Know

Find Pestel

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Looking for some cool things to do?

Paradise for your inbox

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Plan Your Trip

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Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses