Destinations

Parc de Martissant

December 10, 2020 by Editor

lush green garden area with path — Parc de Martissant
Photo: FOKAL

Parc de Martissant

This park houses gorgeous flowers, medicinal plants and the Haitian home of the ‘matriarch of black dance’.

Created in 2007 by joining together four huge estates, the Parc de Martissant provides public oasis where people can relax, share skills and culture. Students and tutors from nearby schools are often found wandering in the park, reading or chatting together. The second central aim of the park is to preserve Haiti’s beautiful native flora.

Year round, the garden is bursting with tropical sights and smells: pink and yellow frangipani, hibiscus, red ginger (or ginger lily), spider lily, the exotic ‘lobster-claws’ flower and dozens of others we didn’t know the name of.

Stroll through lush rolling lawns, roped paths, feature trees, flower guilds and wooded groves circumscribed by stone walls, natural amphitheatres and outdoor galleries as well as three separate groups of buildings, most notably the Katherine Dunham Center.

building with futuristic designed roof in public park — Katherine Dunham Cultural Center, Port-au-Prince
Photo: FOKAL

The Katherine Dunham Center

The Center was once the residence of African-American dancer and choreographer Katherine Dunham, the ‘matriarch of black dance.’ In 1935, Dunham obtained travel fellowships to the Caribbean to further her studies on dance and vodun – or vodou – leading her straight to Haiti.

Here, she spent an extensive amount of time researching, learning, and developing her own dance method. After Dunham passed away in 2006, her property was transformed into a cultural center, and now features an iconic library, whose five buildings – built to emulate movements of dance – were designed by Mexican architects Raúl Galvan Yañez and Winifred Jean Galvan. This library is a hive of activity for students and fans with cultural activities, public readings and more each week.

garden area with rosemary and other herbs — The Medicinal Garden, Parc de Martissant
Photo: Ray Ginald / FOKAL

The medicine garden

The Centre is also where you’ll find guides willing to show you around Parc de Martissant’s extensive garden of medicinal plants. The tour is very detailed, and guides are always more than happy to answer questions, but visitors are free to walk around and observe by themselves if they prefer.

Depending on the time of year, some of the plants are blossoming or yielding fruit. The medicinal plant garden sits adjacent to a community produce garden, whose bounty is gathered whenever it is ripe and made available to the local community.

old concrete swimming pool without water in a tropical garden — Habitation Leclerc, Parc de Martissant
Photo: FOKAL

Habitation Leclerc

Elsewhere in the park’s 17 acres, you’ll find a former luxury hotel called Habitation Leclerc. In the sixties and seventies, the villas with private pools of Habitation Leclerc was a point of reference for the jet-setting elite of the world.

artwork sculpture haning from tree with pink flowers — Art installation by Pascale Monnin at Parc de Martissant
Photo: Valérie Baeriswyl

The earthquake memorial

The third major installation of Parc de Martissant is the January 12 2010 Memorial. It was built on the former residence of Haitian architect Albert Mangonès – the sculptor behind the Marron inconnu or Nèg mawon statue at Champ-de-Mars.

Erected in 2012, the memorial is a symbolic resting place for the souls of those who passed away during the 2010 earthquake. Residents of Martissant planted ylang ylang trees on the perimeter of the memorial and every afternoon the trees’ scent is released throughout the area at a similar time to that of the deadly earthquake in 2010.

The memorial also features a permanent art installation by Haitian artist Pascale Monnin. Skulls made from iron and cement covered in mirror shards hang from a giant tree, twisting and swinging in the wind. Monnin shaped and crafted these skulls based on the faces of residents of Martissant. From the early hours of morning into the late afternoon, they catch and reflect the Caribbean sunlight.

How to visit

The best time to visit the park is in the morning. The ravaging heat of Martissant will not yet be in full effect, and the park is still waking up.

The park is designed with an organic flow in mind – while there isn’t always designated seating, there are low walls or stairs where visitors often sit and hang out.

Guided tours at Parc de Martissant are paid. Children under 6 years of age enter free of change; those between 7 and 18 years old pay 25 gourdes, and people over 18 years of age pay 50 gourdes. The spaces that are currently open for touring are the January 12 2010 Memorial, the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center, and the medicinal plant garden.

If you are planning to visit the center, it is worth noting that the guided tours are in Haitian Creole – therefore, having a bilingual friend or guide to tag along is a good idea! If you visit during the summer, you will greatly benefit from making a reservation in advance, as the tour guides tend to be quite busy during that time of the year with group excursions.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2020

Top things to see in Haiti

Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

October 9, 2020 by Editor

Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

Located in the crescent coast of the bay of Port-au-Prince, the neighborhood of Martissant was once home to boulevards and villas where Haitian high society lived and thrived. These days, Martissant is high-density and not exactly a tourist destination. But there are a few things in Martissant that are worth the trip, and the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center is one of them.

Nested away in Martissant Park, the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center is a haven of peace, calm and community. It is named after African-American dancer and choreographer Katherine Dunham, who moved to Haiti in the 1930s to learn about the African heritage of Caribbean dance forms. Now known as the ‘matriarch of black dance’, Dunham is credited with bringing African and Caribbean rhythm and technique into the professional dance repertoire.

Katherine Dunham’s private home and studio

During her stay, Dunham befriended a few Haitian officials, and became an important cultural ambassador for Haiti. In the centre of Martissant, Dunham purchased a leafy seven-acre property, which she used for herself and for her US-based dance company. A hotel was built there, and for a number of years Dunham received and entertained the elite of Haiti and other lucky invitees.

The lavishness inside the walls, and luxury of being able to focus on art, was an extremely sharp contrast to the poverty-afflicted neighborhood of Martissant. Now, it is giving something back.

Now open to the public

After Dunham passed away in 2006, her property was transformed into a cultural center, and now features an iconic library, whose five buildings – built to emulate movements of dance – were designed by Mexican architects Raúl Galvan Yañez and Winifred Jean Galvan.

This is why from a distance, it is possible to see and identify the geometric, free-flowing silhouette of the center. On the right hand side of the actual center is the relic of an imposing peristil which belonged to Katherine, and which she used during her time in Haiti as a space for Vodou ceremonies inspired by Dunham’s research into African and Caribbean culture.

Most days of the year, the cultural center is open to the public. It houses a very well composed library for young children, teenagers and adults. It is possible to check books out of the library, with a minimal subscription fee. An attractive, bright, intuitively built interior attracts you to a table, or to a shelf. Everything is exceptionally well designed to encourage community and communication.

Events

Because Martissant Park is under the sponsorship of Fondasyon Konesans Ak Libète (the Foundation for Knowledge and Liberty), the Centre also hosts many roundtable discussions, forums, and panels. There are rotating activities all week long for children, as well – ranging from storytelling workshops to readings conducted by popular Haitian authors. The Center also hosts book signings and conferences by young up and coming authors.

There is always plenty of activity at the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center. It is an exceptional venue made possible by an exceptional woman, and pays homage to her life as passionate activist who lived immersed in Haitian culture.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2020

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Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

July 18, 2020 by Anton Lau

haitians crossing the grande-anse river by foot and donkey — The Grande-Anse River
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

One of the country’s southernmost departments, and the home to cities like Jérémie and Abricots, Grand’Anse is where coastal cruising meets mainland adventures.

Between mountains and valleys, the people of the Grand’Anse department are open and eager to make a life for themselves. If you are ever hiking through a town outside the main cities, you will note that the trek some farmers and vendors accomplish to sell their goods every day is nothing short of a miracle.

older haitian man with machete and bag on head — A farmer on his way home from the field near Kafou Zaboka, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Modern infrastructure is not just a thing of Haiti’s big cities. In Jérémie, a massive bridge connects the two edges of the Grand’Anse river, allowing cars and motorcycles through, and for a very scenic drive.

traffic on large bridge crossing a big river — Bridge over Grande-Anse river to Jérémie, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

For those whose journeys are a little bit shorter, a brisk walk through the waters of the Grand’Anse river takes them straight to their destination. Farmers, vendors, and passersby can sometimes be seen quickly wading through, while early morning or late afternoon sunshine ripples over the water.

Some of these daily journeyers — when schools are open — are students. They often make the daily trip in small groups with their friends, to reach their schools in nearby cities. When school is out, they can be seen running and laughing down the same paths, in the soft summer heat.

haitian school boys in uniforms — Boys going to school near Moron, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The bridge in Marfranc is one of those places that is part of daily scenery for students living in the areas around it, but that can add excitement to any visitor’s tour of the Grand’Anse department.

haitian school girl in uniform walking over suspension bridge — School girl crossing a bridge in Marfranc, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

As with any place in rural Haiti, the Grand’Anse department is chock-full of hotel, inn, and bed-and-breakfast options for you to choose from. Not sure where to stay? Easy: ask a local!

motorcycle with passenger driving past hotel building — Cash-Cash Hotel in Dame Marie, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

For these coastal cities like Corail, the importance of local fishing cannot be overstated. Wholesaling and retailing is how many individuals make a living, put food on their tables, and on those of their customers.

haitian woman with red head scarf and bowl of conch — Woman selling conch in Corail, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The beauty of towns surrounding the Grand’Anse river is that they have learned to embrace and adapt to its natural architecture. All around the current, vegetable plots and small homes have sprouted, never so much as disturbing it.

aerial view of farmers fields, river, road and plantation — Landscape in Troupeau near Corail, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Fisher-men and -women alike are no strangers to the sharp art of scaling, gutting, and preparing fish in preparation for the day’s sales. The fresher, the better; often times, a morning catch will become a fried or stewed afternoon lunch or dinner.

haitian woman with straw hat cleaning fish — Woman cleaning a fish by the habour in Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Mountain towns hold their own busy and bustling communities, too. Farmers and vendors will make their way downhill to the main towns where they will bring and sell fresh produce. Schools often pop up in these remote areas as well, removing a burden off the backs of students who would otherwise struggle to afford tuition in cities like Jérémie, Abricots or Pestel.

haitian school building in mountainscape — A school in the mountains close to Jean Beurry, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The people of Grand’Anse hold hearts as vast and as open as their hometowns. If you are able to make the drive down there, it is an experience worth living and re-telling.

Haitian boys in the Joly Guibert village, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Lake Azuéi

May 13, 2020 by admin

palm tree trunks in lake with surrounded by mountains — Palm tree trunks in Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

Lake Azuéi

Lake Azuéi lies 18 miles east of Port-au-Prince and borders Haiti’s next-door neighbor, the Dominican Republic. Spanning 65 blue square miles, Lake Azuéi is a remarkable ecosystem, and a great starting point for wilderness excursions.

Already Haiti’s largest lake, Lake Azuéi has been baffling scientists by rising for two decades – and no one knows why. Today, visitors to the site can see rows of pastel-colored facades that appear to be floating on the surface – the tops of houses, all that’s visible of now-flooded villages along what used to be the shores of the lake. Nearby, you can see trees growing through the glass-like surface as if defying the laws of nature. It’s a haunting picture.

Another quirk of this remarkable Caribbean lake is its salinity – also known as Étang Saumâtre, meaning “brackish lake”, Lake Azuéi is one-fifth the saltiness of the sea. In prehistoric times, the lake site was a marine strait, and its unique ecology is home to over 100 exotic species of water-loving birds and reptiles, including flamingoes and crocodiles.

haitian boys swimming in lake surrounded by mountains — People swimming in Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

The riches of Lake Azuéi

Along one edge of Lake Azuéi, the Quisqueya Park nature reserve offers visitors the chance to wander through an impressive cacti forest. Inside the lake itself, commercial tilapia farms share space with wild flocks of waterfowl, once hunted, but now under official protection. One of the best ways to appreciate the vistas around Lake Azuéi is to plan your trip there to coincide with the birds that migrate to feed or breed here during certain times of the year.

Small villages dot the perimeter, and during the day, year-round, fishermen take their boats out, hoping to catch enough to support themselves and provide for their families. If you cross paths with one of these fishermen, you might be offered a tour of the lake. Tour fees start at 500 gourdes (roughly US $5.25) and sometimes cost more – haggling is a great skill to have, here, as it is at landmarks and markets across Haiti.

haitian boy with a small fish next to lake — Boy with a fish, Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

What if I don’t like flamingos or crocodiles?

If you are a fan of rara music, you’ll be happy to learn that during the Easter period, Lake Azuéi comes alive. Many open spaces and clubs fill up with a crowd of people looking to dance and enjoy the gorgeous landscape around the annual lake celebration, held toward the end of August each year, usually at Quisqueya Park where it overlooks the lake. The lake is also a popular place to stage rara Easter festivities, making it a brilliant place to experience a real Haitian rara Easter.

To access Quisqueya Park, you’ll need to be accompanied by a guide unless you arrive during the August celebrations. Throughout the official celebration period, visitors can browse art and craft exhibitions with local and foreign artists, and guided visits are much more organized and frequent, but the main attraction is the same as it is at any other time of year – swimming! Zabeth Springs, in the town of Ganthier, not far from Lake Azuéi, attracts small crowds of curious visitors on most weekends. International adventurers join residents of Port-au-Prince in diving into the springs, and finish their day with a swim down at Lake Azuéi.

Sunshi Beach and Estofa Beach are established spots for relaxation by the lake, and the Cabane Hotel Resto is a great place to wake up facing Lake Azuéi.

restaurant dining area with thatched roof — Cabane Hotel Resto, Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

Lake Azuei is easy to access, located just 18 miles east of Port-au-Prince. If you have a guide, they will be able to take you privately – take the road that leads to the Plain of the Cul-de-Sac (French: Plaine du Cul-de-Sac), and keep going east – you won’t miss it.

For travelers coming from the Dominican Republic, public transportation will drive you right up to the lake. Buses wind alongside the lake shore, offering gorgeous views. Some adventurers hit the road on a motorcycle or moto, the most common mode of transportation in Haiti. While very exciting, we can’t really recommend it to first-time visitors to the lake because the lake is huge and being on the back of a bike that long just isn’t comfortable.

group of haitian kids swimming swimming in natural pool — Kids Swimming at Zabeth Springs, Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Jean Fils and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2020

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Photo Journal: Pétion-Ville

May 7, 2020 by Anton Lau

man walking in hotel area with parasols and lounge chairs — Passerby at Hotel NH Haiti El Rancho, Pétion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Photo Journal: Pétion-Ville

As one of the busiest cities and commercial areas of the Ouest department, Pétion-Ville is very well known for its hustle and bustle — and yet still makes room to find peace in its everyday rhythm.

Pétion-Ville benefits from being between the residential area of Pelerin and the larger commercial areas of downtown Port-au-Prince and Delmas. It is a place in between, but with a life of its own.

red vintage car in port-au-prince — Street life in Pétion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

In the mornings, after rush hour, the area is a delight to observe. Free from the traffic of frantic parents and children trying to get to work and school, Pétion-Ville sheds a layer and public squares like Place Saint-Pierre or Place Boyer come alive.

white church building in petion-ville — Saint-Pierre Church
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Across the street from the church of the same name, Place Saint-Pierre is where many people sit for lunch, a conversation, or just a leisurely stroll in the late morning and early afternoon.

man sitting next to a parked bmx bike in public square — A bike rider takes a break in the shade at Place Saint-Pierre
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

When school is in session, the students from Lycée Pétion-Ville will sometimes venture outside of the playground and play in the park. Some ride bikes, some play tag, and others enjoy their lunch before they head back to class.

haitian boys in school uniforms on bmx bikes — Students riding bikes at Place Saint-Pierre
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Pétion-Ville is a city of colors, sometimes peeking from between trees, and some other times in bold display as a background to street vendors of food, electronics, and every day household items.

sandals on display on a tiled wall — Sandals displayed for sale in front of bright mosaics
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Should you be in the area, you should definitely try some fresko, or shaved ice while you venture through the city. A very affordable treat, it’s particularly delicious with roasted peanuts on top!

vendor pouring syrup on shaved ice — A fresko vendor pouring passionfruit syrup on shaved ice
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

When you first go through Pétion-Ville, the idea of it being a peaceful city may seem a bit odd — but once you take your time to experience it, maybe on foot, you start to understand that cities don’t just happen to be peaceful, they are made that way.

three haitians sitting on grass lawn talking — A small group sits in the shade to chat at Place Saint-Pierre
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Pétion-Ville radiates a different energy at night. A favorite food and drink pit-stop for party-goers, both before and after an event, it seems to shed its daytime shine to reveal a soft but lively nighttime glow.

night time traffic by gas station — Bird’s eye view from the top of the Royal Oasis Hotel
Photo: Alain Lescouflair

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Dondon grottoes

April 21, 2020 by admin

view from inside a cave with vines in entrance — View of Dondon from inside a grotto
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dondon grottoes

Located in the mountains of northern Haiti, Dondon has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno peoples lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

vodou symbol painted on a cave floor — Vodou vèvè inside a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

The grottoes

Dondon’s spectacular cave system has ten separate grottoes. Some are easy to access and have a given name: Ladies’ Vault, Marc-Antoine grotto, Smoke Vault, Cadelia Vault, Saint Martin Vault, Minguet Vault and Michel grotto, all named because of their individual history.

Some of these caves were Taíno cult locations during the pre-colombian period, where the Taínos would come to pray to their gods. One of the gods prayed to in times of drought is still visible on the walls of the grotto, and in post-colonial times is venerated by vodouwizan as an important figure within vodou. The other grottoes remain unnamed, their histories steeped in mystery.

Guided tours

Many Dondon area locals – young and old – are happy to jump into the role of guide for the grottoes. Some have learned by heart formulas in French and English, which can make for charming – if confusing – conversation.

Experienced and impromptu guides will be more than happy to help you discover the best spots, hidden petroglyphs and the history infusing these grottoes – some of this history only survives as stories handed down from generation to generation, so you won’t find it anywhere else.

haitian man sitting on donkey drinking in river — A man on a donkey by Riviere Bouyaja in Dondon
Photo: Anton Lau

Festivals in Dondon

Every town in Haiti has its own patron saint festival. In Dondon, pilgrims come from far and wide to celebrate Saint Martin of Tours. Some come here to party, others come as tourists to observe, but most are here to honor the Vodou divinities, the lwa believed to live here. The patron saint festival of Saint Martin of Tours happens in Dondon on November 9 – 11, but party preparations start on November 7. For five days, crowds filter into Dondon to savor kleren, eat delicious griot, and dance to troubadour music from morning ‘til night.

There is also the Dondon Festival, held from July 18 to 23. This festival is about Dondon itself rather than lwa, and draws vacationers who come to take advantage of the great swimming spots in nearby rivers, go on excursions and participate in the conferences that take place for the occasion.

What else is nearby?

Dondon is close to the UNESCO World Heritage Sans-Souci Palace and Citadelle Laferrière, which locals call the eighth wonder of the world. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any visit to Haiti, and the journey there is well-worth the effort.

Fort Moïse, on top of the Saint Martin Vault, is also close by. Other attractions include the Kota waterfall and the historical Vincent Ogé residence. The on-site coffee co-op at the residence is a great place to taste the very particular flavor of Haitian coffee.

cave entrance with vines and trees — Overgrown entrance to a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to the Dondon grottoes

Dondon is located in the north of Haiti, about a two hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien. The journey to Dondon will take you over roads that are winding and can be pretty rough in places. On paper (or GPS), the route through the town of Saint-Michel might look good, but that road serves up more adventure than most travellers are looking for, and we don’t recommended it. The best way to get to Dondon we’ve found is this one:

From Port-au-Prince, drive out of the capital towards Cap-Haïtien via Route Nationale #1. The road to Cap-Haïtien makes up the longest chunk of the drive, but its recent completion makes it a comfortable trip, not to mention a scenic one, with many towns to stop in along the way, each with their own character. Once in Cap-Haïtien, continue towards the town of Milot. Make a left after you pass Rivière du Nord, and in another hour or so you’ll arrive at Dondon.

There’s no formal fee to see the caves but you’ll need to hire a (formal or informal) guide. Remember to bring food and drinks with you for the trip as there’s no guarantee you’ll find anything on site, although Lakou Lakay is a great place to stop for lunch if you’re travelling via Milot.

Written by Jean Fils and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2020

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Destinations

Parc de Martissant

This park houses gorgeous flowers, medicinal plants and the Haitian home of the ‘matriarch of black dance’.

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

The Katherine Dunham Center

The medicine garden

Habitation Leclerc

The earthquake memorial

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

How to visit

Citadelle Henri

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Katherine Dunham’s private home and studio

Now open to the public

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Events

Find the Center

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Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

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Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

One of the country’s southernmost departments, and the home to cities like Jérémie and Abricots, Grand’Anse is where coastal cruising meets mainland adventures.

From Our Land to Your Home

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Our hotel recommendations

Paradise for your inbox

Lake Azuéi

start your day the Haitian way

The riches of Lake Azuéi

What if I don’t like flamingos or crocodiles?

a touch of haitian wisdom

Getting there

Find Lake Azuei

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Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

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Photo Journal: Pétion-Ville

As one of the busiest cities and commercial areas of the Ouest department, Pétion-Ville is very well known for its hustle and bustle — and yet still makes room to find peace in its everyday rhythm.

start your day the Haitian way

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

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Dondon grottoes

The grottoes

From Our Land to Your Home

Guided tours

Festivals in Dondon

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

What else is nearby?

Getting to the Dondon grottoes

Find the Dondon grottoes

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Citadelle Henri

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