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Cap-Haïtien City Guide

The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

Cap-Haïtien City Guide: 350 Years of Stories, One Unforgettable City

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Cap-Haïtien is a city that refuses to be rushed. The pastel-colored facades of its colonial-era mansions hint at a storied past, while moto taxis zip through streets where revolution once brewed. Nicknamed The Paris of the Antilles, it was once the wealthiest city in the Caribbean—its grand architecture and rich cultural scene a testament to that golden age.

But Okap isn’t just about history. Mornings here start with strong Haitian coffee on the boulevard, afternoons drift by on palm-fringed beaches, and evenings hum with the rhythm of live konpa music. Whether you’re tracing the footsteps of Haiti’s revolutionaries or diving fork-first into a plate of grilled lambi, this city doesn’t just welcome visitors—it pulls them in.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings
Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

What to See and Do in Cap-Haïtien

Cap-Haïtien is a city best explored at street level. Colonial-era buildings with pastel facades line the streets, moto taxis weave between street vendors, and the scent of sizzling griot drifts from neighborhood eateries. Whether you’re drawn to history, bustling markets, or just soaking in the city’s energy, there’s plenty to take in.

Boulevard du Cap-Haïtien (Boulva Okap)
Start with a leisurely stroll down Boulevard du Cap, or Boulva Okap as locals call it. This waterfront stretch is the city’s beating heart, lined with cafés, restaurants, and bars where Cap-Haïtien comes alive—especially on Sundays, when locals gather to eat, drink, and unwind by the sea.

Want an insider’s perspective? We spoke to Za, a local guide, who shares her go-to spots for food, culture, and nightlife.

Notre Dame Cathedral
Anchoring Place d’Armes, Cap-Haïtien’s main square, this elegant cathedral is a city icon. First built in the 1600s and later reconstructed in the 20th century, its crisp white facade stands as a backdrop to daily life—street vendors, musicians, and people passing through.

Héros de Vertières
History isn’t just something you read about in Cap-Haïtien—it’s something you stand in. Héros de Vertières is an open-air monument commemorating the 1803 Battle of Vertières, the final fight for Haiti’s independence. A short drive from downtown, this stirring tribute to Jean-Jacques Dessalines and his troops is a must-visit—especially for those tracing their Haitian roots.

Marché Cluny (The Iron Market)
A riot of color, noise, and scent, Marché Cluny—often called Cap-Haïtien’s Iron Market—has been a bustling hub since 1890. Its cast-iron architecture mirrors the iconic Marché en Fer in Port-au-Prince, and inside, you’ll find everything from fresh produce to handcrafted vodou ritual objects. If you’re on the hunt for souvenirs with real character, this is the spot.

Boukanye Restaurant in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

Where to Eat & Drink in Cap-Haïtien

Cap-Haïtien’s food scene is a celebration of bold flavors and fresh ingredients, with seafood taking center stage. Fried fish, regional cashew-based specialties, and rich, slow-cooked stews fill menus across the city, offering plenty of local flavors to discover.

Here are a few standout spots:

Cap Deli
A go-to for generous portions and creative takes on local flavors, Cap Deli serves up some of the city’s most satisfying comfort food. Try the Meat Overloaded Fries, seafood pizza, or griot pizza, but if you’re looking for something truly special, go for the Bouillon Pêcheur—a rich seafood and vegetable soup packed with flavor.

Boukanye
With its breezy, relaxed vibe, Boukanye is a go-to for hearty Haitian classics. Their poisson gros sel—slow-cooked whole fish in a fragrant broth—is a must-try, especially when paired with diri djon djon, a local specialty made with black mushrooms.

Street food & kleren vendors
Some of the best flavors in Cap-Haïtien are found right on the street. Look out for vendors selling fritay (fried street snacks), crispy pâté (Haitian hand pies), and homemade kleren, Haiti’s artisanal sugarcane spirit. Street vendors often serve cups infused with ingredients like ginger, cinnamon, or medicinal roots that locals swear by. It’s strong—but if you want a real taste of Haiti, this is it.

Want more food recommendations? Check out our full list of Cap-Haïtien’s best restaurants and don’t miss our guide to Haitian street food for a deep dive into the country’s most irresistible bites.

Belly Beach near Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Best Beaches for Swimming, Snorkeling, and Sunbathing

History may have put Cap-Haïtien on the map, but its beaches keep people coming back. Whether you’re after a quiet stretch of sand, a tropical island escape, or just a good spot to sip an ice-cold Prestige, here’s where to go:

Cormier Plage
Just 20 minutes from downtown, this low-key beach is the kind of place where time slows down. Lounge under the palms, take a dip in the calm waters, and order a fresh seafood lunch without ever leaving your chair.

Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island)
If your idea of paradise is turquoise water, soft white sand, and zero crowds, hop on a boat to Île-à-Rat. This tiny offshore island is a local favorite, perfect for snorkeling, swimming, or just kicking back with a plate of grilled lobster. Make sure you take some bottles of Haitian rum with you for the trip!

Looking for more sun-drenched escapes? Check out our full guide to the best beaches near Cap-Haïtien.

Where to Stay

Cap-Haïtien has stays for every kind of traveler, whether you want ocean views, mountain breezes, or a private island escape. Here are three standout options:

Habitation des Lauriers
Perched above the city, Habitation des Lauriers offers unbeatable panoramic views and a peaceful retreat from the bustle below. The steep road up is no joke, but once you’re there, you’ll be surrounded by cool mountain air and lush greenery. Rooms range from budget-friendly basics to more comfortable options with AC and hot showers. The real highlight? Sunsets from the terrace.

Ekolojik Resort
For a nature-meets-comfort experience, Ekolojik Resort is tucked into the hills outside the city, offering a peaceful escape with views of Cap-Haïtien and the bay. The property is surrounded by fruit trees and lush greenery, and they focus on locally sourced, organic food. If you love waking up to fresh air and birdsong, this is your spot.

Chez Max
Only accessible by boat, Chez Max is a boutique B&B in a private cove, surrounded by tropical forest and turquoise water. The separate bungalows and villa offer a secluded, laid-back atmosphere with kayaks, paddleboards, and a private beach at your doorstep. Add in a delicious, homemade breakfast and it’s the ultimate off-the-grid hideaway.

Want more options? Check out our full guide on where to wake up in Cap-Haïtien.

Bartenden at Lakay in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

Nightlife & Live Music in Cap-Haïtien

As the day winds down, Cap-Haïtien doesn’t sleep—it just changes tempo. Locals spill onto terraces, kompa beats hum in the background, and the scent of grilled seafood lingers in the air. From breezy rooftops to beachside bars, here’s where to settle in for a drink and good company.

Lakay
A waterfront favorite for over 25 years, Lakay is as much about good vibes as great drinks. Expect a lively crowd, especially on Sunday nights, and don’t miss Salsa Thursdays, where you can pick up a few moves while sipping on a classic rum sour.

Les 3 Rois
Perched on the coastal road to Labadee, this hotel bar offers a peaceful atmosphere, a sea breeze, and dangerously good cocktails. The cassava accras (manioc fritters) are a mu5st, best paired with a fresh mojito while you watch the waves roll in.

Les Alizés
A stylish rooftop bar with modern architecture and panoramic views over the city. Come at sunset on weekends for an after-work crowd, DJ sets, and an unbeatable view of the Notre Dame Cathedral glowing in the evening light.

Citadelle Henri near Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Awesome Day-Trips

Most visitors to Cap-Haïtien make a beeline for Sans-Souci Palace and the Citadelle Henri, the city’s UNESCO-listed crown jewels. And while these historic landmarks are a must, venture a little further, and you’ll find places that feel worlds away—where citrus groves perfume the air, ancient carvings tell forgotten stories, and emerald pools shimmer in the hills. Here are three day trips that take you beyond the usual sights.

Wander Through the Orange Groves of Grand Marnier
Just outside Limonade, rolling fields of bitter orange trees stretch as far as the eye can see. The citrus grown here plays a key role in world-famous liqueurs like Grand Marnier and Cointreau. While official tours aren’t a thing, locals might just invite you to see the groves up close and share a taste of Haiti’s citrus-scented heritage.

Find Ancient Taíno Petroglyphs in Sainte-Suzanne
Hidden in the hills near Foulon, these centuries-old rock carvings whisper the stories of Haiti’s first inhabitants, the Taíno. The petroglyphs are etched into massive boulders, their meaning still a mystery, but their presence a powerful reminder of the island’s deep Indigenous roots. A local guide can help you find them—and share the legends tied to these ancient markings.

Cool Off in the Emerald Waters of Bassin Waka
Near Port-Margot, Bassin Waka is a freshwater oasis surrounded by lush greenery, where locals come to swim, unwind, and soak in the natural beauty. The water is impossibly clear, the fish dart between your feet, and the calm atmosphere makes it feel like a hidden retreat.

Looking for more ways to explore? Check out our guide to the coolest things to do in and around Cap-Haïtien.

Getting There & Getting Around

Getting to Cap-Haïtien is easier than you might think. Direct flights from Miami and Fort Lauderdale take just two hours, making it a quick escape to Haiti’s northern coast.

Once you’re here, getting around is part of the adventure. Moto taxis are the fastest way to navigate the city’s lively streets, while tap-taps—Haiti’s colorful shared taxis—offer a budget-friendly way to move between neighborhoods. Private taxis are also available, but don’t expect Uber or Lyft—ride-hailing apps don’t operate in Haiti.

Thinking about renting a car? It’s possible, but unless you’re highly experienced with Haitian roads, we strongly recommend hiring a local driver. For a different kind of transport, boat taxis can take you to nearby beaches and islands along the coast.

For more information, see our guides to getting to Haiti and public transportion within Haiti.


Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published December 2019.
Updated March 2025.


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Citadelle Henri

Citadelle Henri near Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Climb to the Citadelle and See the Fortress That Defended a Nation

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Citadelle Henri, known to locals simply as La Citadelle, is the largest fortress in the Americas. Haitians call it the eighth wonder of the world, and once you reach the summit of Pic Laferrière, you’ll understand why.

The mountaintop fortress is massive, rising 130 feet from Bonnet à l’Évêque, at an elevation of 3,000 feet above sea level. From here, you’ll take in unparalleled views in every direction—over jungle-clad mountains, winding rivers, and the shimmering Caribbean Sea.

Citadelle Henri in Milot
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

What You’ll See

Built to demonstrate the power of a newly independent Haiti, Citadelle Henri was also a defensive stronghold, designed to protect the country if the French attempted to retake the nation. The 100,000-square-foot fortress includes vast cisterns and storehouses, meant to supply the royal family and up to 5,000 people with enough food and water to withstand a year-long siege.

Armed with over 150 cannons, mostly captured from the English, French, and Spanish, the fortress once stored more than 50,000 cannonballs. With walls over 13 feet thick and rising 100 feet high, the Citadelle was built to be impenetrable.

Fortunately, the French never returned, the canons were never fired in combat, and the Citadelle is much the same today as it was 200 years ago. In recent years, restoration efforts have been supported by organizations like the World Monuments Fund, which works to protect this historic site for future generations.

Visitors can spend hours exploring the site—walking its ramparts, drawbridges, cannon batteries, and long corridors designed to outwit invaders. Many windows and ramparts drop off into sheer cliffs, offering breathtaking views of northern Haiti.

Inside the courtyard, you’ll find a brand-new museum, an art gallery, and modern restrooms, along with a small gift shop selling drinks and postcards.

A National Icon

Citadelle Henri is Haiti’s most popular historic site, visited by both Haitians and travelers alike. It holds a visible place of pride in Haitian culture—you’ll see its distinct triangular shape on 5 HTG coins, 100 HTG bills, and even the covers of school textbooks.

Citadelle Henri
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The History Behind Citadelle Henri

Citadelle Henri was constructed between 1805 and 1820, following Haiti’s successful revolution, in which the formerly enslaved African-descended population overthrew French colonial rule and declared independence. It took 15 years and 20,000 people to build.

The fortress was part of a larger defensive network, which included Fort Jacques and Fort Ogé, all built to protect Haiti from future invasions by European forces from neighboring colonies. While earlier forts were constructed during the revolution itself, Henri Christophe ordered the construction of the Citadelle in 1805, just one year after independence, as a permanent stronghold against potential attacks.

Rising 130 feet above the mountaintop, the Citadelle not only provided strategic defense but also sent a clear message. Even from its base, the fortress offers uninterrupted views of the sea, but more importantly, it could be seen from miles offshore—a warning to any would-be invaders that Haiti was ready to defend itself.

Construction, personally overseen by Christophe, was completed in 1820, cementing the Citadelle’s place as one of the greatest military fortifications in the Americas. Today, it is not only a national symbol but also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its historical and architectural significance.

Citadelle Henri
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Getting there

The Citadelle is located in the town of Milot, just south of Cap-Haïtien, about a one-hour drive away.

The journey begins near the entrance to Sans-Souci Palace, where visitors must pay an entry fee of $10 USD. Here, you’ll find plenty of local guides offering tours of both Sans-Souci Palace and the Citadelle. Guide prices vary depending on your group size, but the fee is per person and covers both sites.

At the entrance, you’ll also find vendors selling drinks, snacks, and souvenirs—but be sure to bring cash, as you’ll need it for transportation, entry fees, tipping, and purchases. It’s also a good idea to bring water, especially if you plan to hike.

To reach the Citadelle’s summit, you have three options:

  • Take a moto (motorbike taxi) for around $10 USD.
  • Hike on foot (1 to 2 hours, depending on your fitness level).
  • Ride on horseback ($15 USD).

The route from Sans-Souci to the Citadelle is only 4 miles (6.5 kilometers), but with an elevation gain of over 2,000 feet (700 meters), the climb is steep. Many visitors choose to stay overnight in one of the many hotels in Cap-Haïtien rather than making it a rushed trip. If you’re spending time in the city, be sure to check out the coolest things to do in Cap-Haïtien and beyond to make the most of your visit.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019.
Updated March 2025.


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Photo Journal: Gonaïves – The City of Independence

public city square with grass and statue
Place d’Armes town square in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Gonaïves – The City of Independence

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A great starting point for your exploration of Gonaïves is the Place d’Armes – a large public square in the center of the town where Haiti’s independence was proclaimed on January 1, 1804.

Here, you’ll find two iconic monuments that are closely associated with the city: Cathédrale Du Souvenir (the Cathedral of Memory) and l’Obélisque (the Obelisk). These structures are a testament to Gonaïves’ rich history, including its important role in Haiti’s fight for independence.

busy haitian city street with lots of traffic
Traffic in Avenue des Datte
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In addition to its historical landmarks, Gonaïves is a vibrant and lively city. Its streets, such as Avenue des Datte, buzzing with activity and offering a glimpse into the daily life and culture of the city.

city street with bus and ice cream vendor
Street life in front of the town hall
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

You’ll notice a wide range of neighborhoods and urban landscapes as you explore the streets. From chaotic areas filled with motorcycle taxis, colorful taptap busses, and haggling street vendors, to peaceful and quiet quarters, this city offers something for everyone.

historical monument with statue of jacques dessalines
Statue of Jean Jacques Dessalines on Place d’Armes
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

One of the things that makes Gonaïves so unique is its rich history. Its public squares and landmarks are a reminder of the city’s past, and the stories that are inscribed in every brick and paving stone.

public city square with boy on bmx bike and boy with football
Kids playing football on the public square of Raboteau
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

But Gonaïves is not just a city of the past – it’s also a city of the future. Its young people, playing and laughing in the city’s parks and playgrounds, are a reminder of the hope and promise that lies ahead.

edge of a lake with two vernacular wooden houses and mountains
The salt marshes of Morne Lapierre
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

To truly experience the beauty of Gonaïves, it’s worth venturing outside of the city. One of the highlights is a trip to the stunning salt marshes of nearby Morne Lapierre. Here, the salty waters glisten in the sunlight, creating a breathtaking landscape. The high salinity of the seawater and the constant exposure to the sun make this region one of the best places in the country for the production of sea salt.

busy city street with market activity and motorcycles
The busy market square in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The market square is another must-see for any visitor to the city. It’s a vibrant hub of activity, where the various aspects of daily life intersect and come together. The square itself is a chaotic and colorful mosaic, filled with the sounds, smells, and sights of the city.

The pavement is crowded with street vendors, taptaps, and motorcycle taxis, all vying for attention and space. And yet, despite the commotion, there’s a sense of warmth and community here. The cheerful faces of the people, chatting and laughing with one another, give the market square its soul and character.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Gonaïves is also a major center of Vodou pilgrimage, home to two of the country’s largest lakousLakou Soukri and Lakou Souvenance. Each year, these lakous attract thousands of pilgrims, tourists, and curious visitors who come to experience the annual festivals and the unique rituals and traditions of Vodou.

courtyard area in a vodou lakou with buildings, trees and girl
Houses in Lakou Soukri
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The concept of lakou is one of Haiti’s oldest cultural traditions. It’s a place where the faithful live in community, and while daily life at the lakou is not much different from elsewhere, there are certain rules and customs that must be followed in order to preserve the ancestral practices of Vodou.

metal voddou sculpture with symbols and offerings to spirits
A sign at the entrance of Lakou Souvenance
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Lakou Souvenance is located about eleven kilometers north of Gonaïves. This ancient lakou, over two hundred years old, is a place of great spiritual significance for the Vodou community. Its ancient walls and gates, worn and weathered by time, speak to the centuries of traditions and rituals that have taken place within its boundaries.

old curved trees growing in courtyard providing shade
Towering trees surrounding a pond at Lakou Souvenance
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

For the visitor, a trip to Lakou Souvenance is a glimpse into a world of spirituality and tradition that is unlike anything else. It is a place of great beauty and mystery, where the past and the present come together in a unique and powerful way.

city street lined with tropical trees with traffic and a gas station
Sun rising over Avenue des Datte
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
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Quiz – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

handpainted haitian boardgame with soccer players
Haitian board game in Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Test Your Knowledge – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

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Ever been to Haiti? Yes, no, maybe so? Regardless, we hope you find this quiz fun and informative. If you’re a new visitor, hopefully this quiz will inspire you to experience Haiti up close! Let’s test your knowledge on the ins and outs with these 18 cultural facts about Haiti.


Let’s test your knowledge on these cultural facts about Haiti

How did it go? If you’re feeling brave like Toussaint Louverture our “How Haitian are you?” Quiz is just right for you! If you want to access your inner Captain Morgan try our “Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?” Quiz!


Created by Zachary Warr.

Published December 2021.


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Haitian Vodou Revealed

vodou priestess kneeling on floor in a huge and colorful dress
Vodou priestess Manbo Nini, Jacmel
Photo: Verdy Verna

Haitian Vodou Revealed

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Vodou originated in the African kingdoms of Fon and Kongo as many as 6,000 years ago. In modern Haiti, this spiritual practice is a creolized version that incorporates Amerindian Taíno and Arawak deities, Medieval Catholic influences, and even Masonic rituals!

By and large, people associate Vodou* with evil, devil worship, and violent animal sacrifice. But many of its rituals (even those that include the sacrifice of live animals) focus on restoring peace and balance – in families, communities, and between the human realm and the realms of the lwa – the spirits.

Vodou religious leaders are respected figures in their communities, providing guidance, settling disputes, and providing medical care in the form of herbal healing. Priests – oungan – and priestesses – manbo – dedicate their lives to helping others and assisting them in serving their lwa. People who practice Vodou are known as vodouwizan, vodouisants (French), or in Haitian Kreyòl, sèvitè – “servants of the spirits”.

As Haitian nationals and the Haitian diaspora in Canada, the United States, and France become more open about their practice of Vodou, the truth about this enigmatic spiritual practice is slowly being revealed to the world. This is a story of how a spiritual tradition designed to heal and maintain balance was caught up in a case of mistaken identity, from which it is still recovering today.

haitian vodou practitioners in dimly lit cave with candles
Vodouwizans with candles
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Devil-worship or disinformation?

A 2011-12 exhibit at the Canadian Museum of Civilization suggests that Vodou was the target of a cultural disinformation campaign. Between 1915 and 1934, the United States Marine Corps occupied Haiti. During the occupation, Haiti became the backdrop for books and movies depicting Vodou as cruel, sinister, and bloody. Tracing media depictions of Haitian Vodou over time, the museum showed how anti-Vodou propaganda was deliberately spread to discredit anti-occupation forces. Movies like White Zombie, released in 1932, portrayed Vodou priests and others who resisted foreign occupation as bloodthirsty, deceptive, and downright evil.

Test your knowledge of Vodou

Now that we’ve set the record straight, it’s time to test your knowledge of this mysterious religion.

hanpainted exterior wall of vodou temple
Vodou peristyle
Photo: Emily Bauman / Amanacer

1. True or false: there are separate branches of Vodou

Answer: True!

Vodou lwa are divided into several branches or “nations”: the most prominent are Petwo and Rada.

Since there are more than two branches of lwa, it’s difficult to define Petwo and Rada purely in opposition to each other, but they are certainly starkly different.

Some anthropologists have described the Rada as benevolent and the Petwo as malevolent, or the Rada as representing ‘insider’ forces while the Petwo represent ‘outsider’ forces.

Rada lwa, according to anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown, are generally gentle, kind and mostly concerned with supporting the wellbeing of their adherents. Petwo lwa, on the other hand, are hot-tempered, even explosive – the rituals that call Petwo lwa involve intense drumming, whip-cracks, gasoline and even ignited gunpowder. Some anthropologists believe the Petwo lwa are indigenous to Haiti, not imported from Africa – generated either as creolizations of native Taíno or Arawak deities, or born out of the need to survive the harsh conditions and trauma that the enslaved vodouwizan had to endure.

We can illustrate this dichotomy with the two rival lwa, Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò. Two aspects of the same female deity, Erzulie Freda is a Rada lwa, and Erzulie Dantò is a Petwo lwa. In the same way that a diamond has hundreds of facets, a Vodou spirit or lwa has seemingly unlimited sides. Practitioners understand that if the entire lwa – in its full power – were to manifest itself, it would be overpowering, so they choose to invoke only one facet at a time.

Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò are each part of a whole, but are depicted in traditional Haitian folklore as starkly different. Erzulie Freda is depicted as a fair-skinned bourgeois city woman who enjoys wealth, luxury, and the finer things in life like perfumes, jewelry, and flowers. Her counterpart, Dantò, a fierce defender of children, women, and society’s rejects, is dark-skinned and proudly wears two distinct scars on her face. Whereas Freda might respond to a crisis by crying, Dantò responds by becoming enraged.

The vèvè Vodou symbol for each version of Erzulie contains a heart, but each is distinct. Erzulie Dantò’s cosmogram features a sword through a heart, indicating her power to enact vengeance, protect children, and fulfill the fiery side of love on behalf of the lwa.

Whether you attend a ceremony held for Erzulie Freda or Erzulie Dantò is as different as going to a gentle Quaker gathering for collective consciousness unity, or a Pentecostal prayer meeting calling on the Holy Spirit for vigorous and fiery healing.

man lighting candles in a lavishly pink decorated room for vodou ceremony
Ceremony for Erzulie Freda
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

2. True or false: Vodou is all sinister sorcery and black magic

Answer: False!

There are two satellites of Vodou one might call secret societies. The dark practices of these secret societies were mistakenly called Voodoo by American officials in the early 1900s, causing confusion that persists to this day.

These two secret societies are Makaya and Bizango. They are what one may more accurately consider dark magic or sorcery; their practitioners use curses and incantations designed to cause harm. As opposed to Petwo and Rada Vodou, whose goals are to support and guide life, Makaya and Bizango employ practices harnessed against life.

How did these secret societies arrive in Haiti? It is said that Bizango started as a blend of West-African Bo and European necromancy brought to Hispaniola by colonizers. The story goes that African slaves brought to work sugar plantations were witness to their masters’ dark rituals on the plantations. This is when European knowledge would have been acquired, then combined with rituals from Africa to form a new syncretic practice.

Makaya, on the other hand, is believed to be a merging of Amerindian shapeshifting and other ritual secrets with the imported West-African Bo. The native inhabitants of the island were reputed to know the art of shapeshifting and of poisons, with rituals and practices designed to harm or protect individuals and communities.

Makaya places a stronger emphasis on shifting one’s corporeal form, and its lore includes stories of teleporting from one side of the island to another through secret portals revealed to the marooned slaves by the native Taíno. Some say that this is how revolutionaries were able to travel swiftly across the island and confound colonial armies.

When the US military occupation began in 1915, Western filmmakers exploited rumours about the darkest practices of Bizango and Makaya “voodoo” and through these caricatures, whether deliberately or not, vilified the country’s spiritual tradition.

In reality, love spells, curses, and rituals of revenge fall outside the realm of Vodou altogether. Curses, spells – and zombies – are instead the specialty of Bo in West-Africa and Bizango or Makaya in Haiti. In U.S. Vodou practice, they are categorized as “hoodoo” and should not be conflated with Vodou.

So if it’s not black magic, what is maji in Vodou?

When life gets chaotic and out of our control, westerners turn to psychologists, and Haitian vodouwizan turn to oungan and manbo. Everywhere on earth, for people of every faith, race and class, life can suddenly be thrown out of balance by sickness, professional failure, financial loss, family crisis or community conflict. At such times, vodouwizan ask the lwa to intervene and help the person in distress. This intervention is maji.

Practitioners of maji perform treatments to heal or protect those who consult them. In a dedicated room called a badji, the practitioner uses ritual to call in a lwa whose intervention is most appropriate for the given situation. The lwa may speak to the practitioner, or through the practitioner, possessing the practitioner’s body to investigate the situation for itself. The lwa decides on the appropriate course of action required to restore balance and shares this valuable information through the manbo or oungan.

woman making a cross with two knives on a straw hat
Ritual being performed at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

3. True or false: voodoo dolls are real

Answer: True AND False

During the American occupation, books and films aimed at the general public propagated many of the fictions that continue to degrade Vodou by associating it with evil sorcery. One of the strongest fictions is the image of a voodoo doll pricked with pins to cause injury or suffering to an enemy.

Pricked with pins and full of evil powers, the primitive cloth doll has become the image most often associated with Vodou in the world’s collective imagination. This has nothing, however, to do with the real spiritual practice in Haiti.

In reality, dolls are occasionally used in the practice of Haitian Vodou, but not to cast spells! Placed near graves or hung from the branches of Kapok trees, these dolls convey messages sent by vodouwizan to the dead or to ancestors.

4. True or false: zombies are real

Answer: True!

Forget what you think you know about zombies. While Haitian zombies may not match their typical portrayal in popular media, they hold a very real place in the country’s cultural beliefs. There’s so much to explore about zombie fact and fiction that we’ve dedicated a separate article to it.

Learn all about Haitian zombies here.

haitian vodou practitioners with head scarfs during ceremony
Women at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. True or false: vodou and Christianity first merged in the new world


Answer: False!

Many of the slaves brought to Hispaniola from northern and central Africa between the 16th and 18th centuries practiced the African form of Vodou. Since the colony’s slave code required all slaves to convert to Christianity, Vodou dances were strictly forbidden, and slaves could not observe their religion openly. They found themselves borrowing many elements from Catholicism to disguise and thus maintain their spiritual practice.

Lwa were assigned the faces of corresponding Saints. For example, Saint Peter holds the keys to the kingdom of heaven and corresponds to Papa Legba, who in Vodou is the gatekeeper to the spirit world. This process, known as syncretization, is why visitors to Haiti can see paintings for sale of a figure who appears to be Mary Mother of Jesus with black skin, and not know that they are really looking at a portrayal of Erzulie Dantò.

What is even less known is that this syncretization began hundreds of years earlier, before the first captured slave was ever sold on Haiti’s shores.

Long before Christopher Columbus docked on the island of Hispaniola, Portuguese monks visited the kingdom of Kongo, from where much of Haitian Vodou originates. These early Christian missionaries arrived in the capital after a long journey, appearing before the Kongo chief and his queen. They wore the plain beige robes of the medieval Jesuit priesthood.

The priests brought with them ornate golden crosses and, with permission, set up shop as missionaries do. They began to learn the local language, communicated as best they could, and shared stories about the Christian Holy Trinity, the resurrection story of Jesus, and the work of the Holy Spirit. In historical letters written to Portugal’s king and queen, the missionaries recount how the Kongo high court was fascinated with the Jesuit’s religion and adopted certain stories into their own belief systems.

The cross and the story of Jesus’s death and resurrection was integrated into the system of traditional Vodou lwa spirits and ancestor worship in the Kongo, which was then taken to Haiti by 16th-century African slaves. The Christian cross became a symbol for the crossroads, which represents life-altering choices and steps along the spiritual path for followers of Vodou in both its African and Haitian expressions to this day.

man carrying decorated cross during vodou ceremony
Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

6. True or false: it’s dangerous to attend a Vodou ceremony because you’ll get possessed

Answer: False!

One of non-initiates’ greatest fears when it comes to Vodou is being possessed by spirits against their will. While possession does take place at Vodou ceremonies, there is little danger that a spectator will be spontaneously “ridden” by the lwa.

For a vodouwizan, being possessed is like momentarily disappearing in order to become the physical vessel for a lwa. The actions and words of the possessed are believed to be the loa expressing itself, addressing others, advising or consoling, encouraging or scolding, punishing or healing through the Vodouwizan.

For practitioners of Vodou, there is nothing strange or special about possession. It can happen at any moment, and can last anywhere from a few minutes to hours or even days.

If this sounds scary, it’s helpful to remember that an immense amount of training, initiation, not to mention financial resources and sacred planning go into holding a Vodou ceremony. People are looking for answers to real problems around financial ruin, broken relationships, and discord. Each ceremony is held with a specific purpose or intention, and it would not be accomplished if the possessed chwal (or “horse”) wasn’t up to the task of the full participation required of their role.

For the same reason, it is exceedingly unlikely that a spectator at a Vodou dans (ceremony) would spontaneously be possessed. In fact, it is extremely rare for a non-initiate to be invited to participate in a major way in an important Vodou ceremony.

Experience Vodou on your visit to Haiti

Further reading 

For an accessible, illuminating read about Vodou, see Boukman Eksperyans songstress Mimirose Beaubrun’s Nan Domi – An initiate’s journey into Haitian Vodou.  Available in French and English.

For more about the vèvè cosmograms representing the lwa, see the fantastic illustrations and explanations found in a trilingual book by Milo Regaud, Ve-Ve Diagrammes Rituels du Voudou : Ritual Voodoo Diagrams : Blasones de los Vodu – Trilingual ed.Text in French, English, and Spanish.

Mama Lola: A Vodou Priestess in Brooklyn by anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown. Released in 1991, this book is credited with making great strides toward the destigmatisation of Haitian Vodou.

Afro-Caribbean Religions: An Introduction to Their Historical, Cultural, and Sacred Traditions, by Nathaniel Samuel Murrell. Includes 40 pages on Haitian Vodou.

*A quick word about the different spellings of Vodou: some scholars still use the spelling “voodoo;” however, Haitian Vodou initiates and supportive academics prefer alternate spellings such as Vodou, Vodon, Vodun or Vodu.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published June 2021


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Return to the Motherland

man sitting in the front of a small boat with ocean and mountains
Sunset in Baraderes
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Return to the Motherland

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Filmmaker Hans Augustave once shared a quote from his tour guide in Haiti on social media which read, “If every Muslim should go to Mecca once in their life, every Black person should go to Haiti!”. History is forever marked by the fact that Haiti is the first black nation to gain its independence from colonizers in the world, and by doing so, an example was set for other nations to follow. That emancipation set the tone for a wave of black consciousness among slaves around the world and continues to this day to inspire many who attempt to break free from the patterns of dependency and reconnect with their land and culture of origin, specifically people of color.

Many of those living in the Haitian diaspora can relate to feeling like Haiti is a land so close, but ever so far away. Even if you haven’t bought a ticket to visit yet, you know of all the tales of your family’s hometown through the oral history shared by mothers, aunts, and grandmothers surrounding you – but there are gaps that this history cannot bridge.

This is the importance of a homecoming.

Whether you are connected to Haiti through your parents or otherwise, it should be on your list of top 5 places to travel to next for one simple reason: as a descendent of Haitians first, but also as a Black person, your heritage courses through the island. Just like the Year of Return for Ghana and many other West African countries, Haiti can be considered a home away from home.

view over a lush green valley from a mountain top
View of Port Français, Plaine-du-Nord
Photo: Mozart Louis

Why come back?

If you have family still living in Haiti that you keep in touch with, coming to Haiti will quickly show you that phone calls sometimes fall through. There’s nothing like hugging a cousin who always says “Hello!” before passing the phone to his mom, or seeing the uncle all the family stories feature, or getting to know neighbors who saw family leave, but who still remember the days of the past, and miss them dearly. Facing origins means facing home, too.

As any frequent traveler to Haiti will tell you, the experience begins when you get off the plane at the Toussaint Louverture international airport (if you’re landing in Port-au-Prince). From the sudden, warm heat that envelops you when you get off the plane, to the troubadour band playing outside the customs office, everything primes you for the experience of finally making it to the land of your elders.

Reasons to come back will surface all along your trip. You will find them in the sweet, tender, ripe flesh of Batis mangoes, or in the crispy, savory bits of fried pork eaten on late nights out with friends and family, in front of a street food vendor’s kitchen. If you come home during the summer, you’ll have the luxury of experiencing the island’s finest fresh produce, lively events – many of which happen closer to your neighborhood than you think, and peak season for cultural events happening in the capital city. Should you be in Haiti during the winter, reasons to come back will paint themselves in the vivid colors of the sunsets, in the playfulness of children’s faces under Christmas lights in Pétion-Ville, and in the hope that new year’s celebrations offer to everyone on the island.

If you are looking for reasons to come visit Haiti, your best bet is coming to see them for yourself.

haitian women carrying produce in baskets on their heads
Street vendors in Pétion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

What does Haiti offer?

Besides its beautiful beaches and breath-taking hikes, every inch of Haiti is an open window on the history that has affected black lives around the world. If going back to your ancestral roots is something you value as a black traveler, Haiti should definitely be on your itinerary.

The celebration of the black identity can be found in historic sites such as Citadelle Laferrière or any other fort, as well as in the food, the dances, the cultural celebrations, music, and even the language! Haiti holds one of the most unique blends of African heritage and contemporary Latin American and Caribbean tastes and cultures.

people surfing on a coast with palm trees and sun setting behind mountains
Surfers on the beach in Kabik, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Verdy Verna

When to travel?

If you want to experience Haiti as the true home away from home that it can be, February is a time of the year when rhythm and spices are flowing all over the island. Carnival is a very Carribean affair, but to experience it in Haiti is a double-whammy; every Sunday, for about a month, then very intensely for 3 days, Haiti becomes a bubbling hub of celebration of Haitian music, dances, and colors. If one looks and experiences more deeply though, it’s an important period for the Vodou religion and community rooted in Benin and other West African countries.

During Kanaval and more specifically the pre-carnival period, those who practice or follow the religion take their celebrations to the streets under the form of raras and often are mixed up with regular citizens simply celebrating Kanaval. Rara is a dance and ceremonial form of expression rooted in Haitian identity, its presence in Vodou has served many historical moments such as the Bois Caïman Vodou ceremony which was pivotal in the declaration of Haitian independence.

Rara can also be experienced in November (hint: get away from the cold!) which is a culturally and historically rich month for Haiti as well. On November 2nd, the day of the dead is celebrated in both the Catholic community and the Vodou community meaning that there is a larger presence and visibility for these groups in the streets and in cemeteries. November also houses the anniversary of the Battle of Vertières which was pivotal to the Haitian Revolution.

There is something to be said about finally knowing and understanding where one is from. Haiti prides itself on being one of the warmest islands of the Caribbean, both in temperature, and in temperament. There are always the open arms of family, friends, and hosts who want nothing more than to share their favorite parts of home with you. If you considered planning a trip to Ghana, Nigeria or any other African country, consider starting with one of the most afro-affirmative Carribean countries in your journey to self-discovery. Depending on where you’re coming from, getting to Haiti can be more accessible or affordable, but regardless, it will always be an essential experience in the black traveler’s journey.


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published September 2020


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