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Photo Journal: Gonaïves – The City of Independence

public city square with grass and statue
Place d’Armes town square in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Gonaïves – The City of Independence

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A great starting point for your exploration of Gonaïves is the Place d’Armes – a large public square in the center of the town where Haiti’s independence was proclaimed on January 1, 1804.

Here, you’ll find two iconic monuments that are closely associated with the city: Cathédrale Du Souvenir (the Cathedral of Memory) and l’Obélisque (the Obelisk). These structures are a testament to Gonaïves’ rich history, including its important role in Haiti’s fight for independence.

busy haitian city street with lots of traffic
Traffic in Avenue des Datte
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In addition to its historical landmarks, Gonaïves is a vibrant and lively city. Its streets, such as Avenue des Datte, buzzing with activity and offering a glimpse into the daily life and culture of the city.

city street with bus and ice cream vendor
Street life in front of the town hall
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

You’ll notice a wide range of neighborhoods and urban landscapes as you explore the streets. From chaotic areas filled with motorcycle taxis, colorful taptap busses, and haggling street vendors, to peaceful and quiet quarters, this city offers something for everyone.

historical monument with statue of jacques dessalines
Statue of Jean Jacques Dessalines on Place d’Armes
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

One of the things that makes Gonaïves so unique is its rich history. Its public squares and landmarks are a reminder of the city’s past, and the stories that are inscribed in every brick and paving stone.

public city square with boy on bmx bike and boy with football
Kids playing football on the public square of Raboteau
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

But Gonaïves is not just a city of the past – it’s also a city of the future. Its young people, playing and laughing in the city’s parks and playgrounds, are a reminder of the hope and promise that lies ahead.

edge of a lake with two vernacular wooden houses and mountains
The salt marshes of Morne Lapierre
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

To truly experience the beauty of Gonaïves, it’s worth venturing outside of the city. One of the highlights is a trip to the stunning salt marshes of nearby Morne Lapierre. Here, the salty waters glisten in the sunlight, creating a breathtaking landscape. The high salinity of the seawater and the constant exposure to the sun make this region one of the best places in the country for the production of sea salt.

busy city street with market activity and motorcycles
The busy market square in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The market square is another must-see for any visitor to the city. It’s a vibrant hub of activity, where the various aspects of daily life intersect and come together. The square itself is a chaotic and colorful mosaic, filled with the sounds, smells, and sights of the city.

The pavement is crowded with street vendors, taptaps, and motorcycle taxis, all vying for attention and space. And yet, despite the commotion, there’s a sense of warmth and community here. The cheerful faces of the people, chatting and laughing with one another, give the market square its soul and character.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Gonaïves is also a major center of Vodou pilgrimage, home to two of the country’s largest lakousLakou Soukri and Lakou Souvenance. Each year, these lakous attract thousands of pilgrims, tourists, and curious visitors who come to experience the annual festivals and the unique rituals and traditions of Vodou.

courtyard area in a vodou lakou with buildings, trees and girl
Houses in Lakou Soukri
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The concept of lakou is one of Haiti’s oldest cultural traditions. It’s a place where the faithful live in community, and while daily life at the lakou is not much different from elsewhere, there are certain rules and customs that must be followed in order to preserve the ancestral practices of Vodou.

metal voddou sculpture with symbols and offerings to spirits
A sign at the entrance of Lakou Souvenance
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Lakou Souvenance is located about eleven kilometers north of Gonaïves. This ancient lakou, over two hundred years old, is a place of great spiritual significance for the Vodou community. Its ancient walls and gates, worn and weathered by time, speak to the centuries of traditions and rituals that have taken place within its boundaries.

old curved trees growing in courtyard providing shade
Towering trees surrounding a pond at Lakou Souvenance
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

For the visitor, a trip to Lakou Souvenance is a glimpse into a world of spirituality and tradition that is unlike anything else. It is a place of great beauty and mystery, where the past and the present come together in a unique and powerful way.

city street lined with tropical trees with traffic and a gas station
Sun rising over Avenue des Datte
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Quiz – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

handpainted haitian boardgame with soccer players
Haitian board game in Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Test Your Knowledge – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

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Ever been to Haiti? Yes, no, maybe so? Regardless, we hope you find this quiz fun and informative. If you’re a new visitor, hopefully this quiz will inspire you to experience Haiti up close! Let’s test your knowledge on the ins and outs with these 18 cultural facts about Haiti.


Let’s test your knowledge on these cultural facts about Haiti

How did it go? If you’re feeling brave like Toussaint Louverture our “How Haitian are you?” Quiz is just right for you! If you want to access your inner Captain Morgan try our “Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?” Quiz!


Created by Zachary Warr.

Published December 2021.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Haitian Vodou Revealed

vodou priestess kneeling on floor in a huge and colorful dress
Vodou priestess Manbo Nini, Jacmel
Photo: Verdy Verna

Haitian Vodou Revealed

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Vodou originated in the African kingdoms of Fon and Kongo as many as 6,000 years ago. In modern Haiti, this spiritual practice is a creolized version that incorporates Amerindian Taíno and Arawak deities, Medieval Catholic influences, and even Masonic rituals!

By and large, people associate Vodou* with evil, devil worship, and violent animal sacrifice. But many of its rituals (even those that include the sacrifice of live animals) focus on restoring peace and balance – in families, communities, and between the human realm and the realms of the lwa – the spirits.

Vodou religious leaders are respected figures in their communities, providing guidance, settling disputes, and providing medical care in the form of herbal healing. Priests – oungan – and priestesses – manbo – dedicate their lives to helping others and assisting them in serving their lwa. People who practice Vodou are known as vodouwizan, vodouisants (French), or in Haitian Kreyòl, sèvitè – “servants of the spirits”.

As Haitian nationals and the Haitian diaspora in Canada, the United States, and France become more open about their practice of Vodou, the truth about this enigmatic spiritual practice is slowly being revealed to the world. This is a story of how a spiritual tradition designed to heal and maintain balance was caught up in a case of mistaken identity, from which it is still recovering today.

haitian vodou practitioners in dimly lit cave with candles
Vodouwizans with candles
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Devil-worship or disinformation?

A 2011-12 exhibit at the Canadian Museum of Civilization suggests that Vodou was the target of a cultural disinformation campaign. Between 1915 and 1934, the United States Marine Corps occupied Haiti. During the occupation, Haiti became the backdrop for books and movies depicting Vodou as cruel, sinister, and bloody. Tracing media depictions of Haitian Vodou over time, the museum showed how anti-Vodou propaganda was deliberately spread to discredit anti-occupation forces. Movies like White Zombie, released in 1932, portrayed Vodou priests and others who resisted foreign occupation as bloodthirsty, deceptive, and downright evil.

Test your knowledge of Vodou

Now that we’ve set the record straight, it’s time to test your knowledge of this mysterious religion.

hanpainted exterior wall of vodou temple
Vodou peristyle
Photo: Emily Bauman / Amanacer

1. True or false: there are separate branches of Vodou.

Answer: True!

Vodou lwa are divided into several branches or “nations”: the most prominent are Petwo and Rada.

Since there are more than two branches of lwa, it’s difficult to define Petwo and Rada purely in opposition to each other, but they are certainly starkly different.

Some anthropologists have described the Rada as benevolent and the Petwo as malevolent, or the Rada as representing ‘insider’ forces while the Petwo represent ‘outsider’ forces.

Rada lwa, according to anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown, are generally gentle, kind and mostly concerned with supporting the wellbeing of their adherents. Petwo lwa, on the other hand, are hot-tempered, even explosive – the rituals that call Petwo lwa involve intense drumming, whip-cracks, gasoline and even ignited gunpowder. Some anthropologists believe the Petwo lwa are indigenous to Haiti, not imported from Africa – generated either as creolizations of native Taíno or Arawak deities, or born out of the need to survive the harsh conditions and trauma that the enslaved vodouwizan had to endure.

We can illustrate this dichotomy with the two rival lwa, Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò. Two aspects of the same female deity, Erzulie Freda is a Rada lwa, and Erzulie Dantò is a Petwo lwa. In the same way that a diamond has hundreds of facets, a Vodou spirit or lwa has seemingly unlimited sides. Practitioners understand that if the entire lwa – in its full power – were to manifest itself, it would be overpowering, so they choose to invoke only one facet at a time.

Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò are each part of a whole, but are depicted in traditional Haitian folklore as starkly different. Erzulie Freda is depicted as a fair-skinned bourgeois city woman who enjoys wealth, luxury, and the finer things in life like perfumes, jewelry, and flowers. Her counterpart, Dantò, a fierce defender of children, women, and society’s rejects, is dark-skinned and proudly wears two distinct scars on her face. Whereas Freda might respond to a crisis by crying, Dantò responds by becoming enraged.

The vèvè Vodou symbol for each version of Erzulie contains a heart, but each is distinct. Erzulie Dantò’s cosmogram features a sword through a heart, indicating her power to enact vengeance, protect children, and fulfill the fiery side of love on behalf of the lwa.

Whether you attend a ceremony held for Erzulie Freda or Erzulie Dantò is as different as going to a gentle Quaker gathering for collective consciousness unity, or a Pentecostal prayer meeting calling on the Holy Spirit for vigorous and fiery healing.

man lighting candles in a lavishly pink decorated room for vodou ceremony
Ceremony for Erzulie Freda
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

2. True or false: Vodou is all sinister sorcery and black magic.

Answer: False!

There are two satellites of Vodou one might call secret societies. The dark practices of these secret societies were mistakenly called Voodoo by American officials in the early 1900s, causing confusion that persists to this day.

These two secret societies are Makaya and Bizango. They are what one may more accurately consider dark magic or sorcery; their practitioners use curses and incantations designed to cause harm. As opposed to Petwo and Rada Vodou, whose goals are to support and guide life, Makaya and Bizango employ practices harnessed against life.

How did these secret societies arrive in Haiti? It is said that Bizango started as a blend of West-African Bo and European necromancy brought to Hispaniola by colonizers. The story goes that African slaves brought to work sugar plantations were witness to their masters’ dark rituals on the plantations. This is when European knowledge would have been acquired, then combined with rituals from Africa to form a new syncretic practice.

Makaya, on the other hand, is believed to be a merging of Amerindian shapeshifting and other ritual secrets with the imported West-African Bo. The native inhabitants of the island were reputed to know the art of shapeshifting and of poisons, with rituals and practices designed to harm or protect individuals and communities.

Makaya places a stronger emphasis on shifting one’s corporeal form, and its lore includes stories of teleporting from one side of the island to another through secret portals revealed to the marooned slaves by the native Taíno. Some say that this is how revolutionaries were able to travel swiftly across the island and confound colonial armies.

When the US military occupation began in 1915, Western filmmakers exploited rumours about the darkest practices of Bizango and Makaya “voodoo” and through these caricatures, whether deliberately or not, vilified the country’s spiritual tradition.

In reality, love spells, curses, and rituals of revenge fall outside the realm of Vodou altogether. Curses, spells – and zombies – are instead the specialty of Bo in West-Africa and Bizango or Makaya in Haiti. In U.S. Vodou practice, they are categorized as “hoodoo” and should not be conflated with Vodou.

So if it’s not black magic, what is maji in Vodou?

When life gets chaotic and out of our control, westerners turn to psychologists, and Haitian vodouwizan turn to oungan and manbo. Everywhere on earth, for people of every faith, race and class, life can suddenly be thrown out of balance by sickness, professional failure, financial loss, family crisis or community conflict. At such times, vodouwizan ask the lwa to intervene and help the person in distress. This intervention is maji.

Practitioners of maji perform treatments to heal or protect those who consult them. In a dedicated room called a badji, the practitioner uses ritual to call in a lwa whose intervention is most appropriate for the given situation. The lwa may speak to the practitioner, or through the practitioner, possessing the practitioner’s body to investigate the situation for itself. The lwa decides on the appropriate course of action required to restore balance and shares this valuable information through the manbo or oungan.

woman making a cross with two knives on a straw hat
Ritual being performed at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

3. True or false: voodoo dolls are real

Answer: True AND False

During the American occupation, books and films aimed at the general public propagated many of the fictions that continue to degrade Vodou by associating it with evil sorcery. One of the strongest fictions is the image of a voodoo doll pricked with pins to cause injury or suffering to an enemy.

Pricked with pins and full of evil powers, the primitive cloth doll has become the image most often associated with Vodou in the world’s collective imagination. This has nothing, however, to do with the real spiritual practice in Haiti.

In reality, dolls are occasionally used in the practice of Haitian Vodou, but not to cast spells! Placed near graves or hung from the branches of Kapok trees, these dolls convey messages sent by vodouwizan to the dead or to ancestors.

4. True or false: zombies are real

Answer: True!

Forget what you think you know about zombies. While Haitian zombies may not match their typical portrayal in popular media, they hold a very real place in the country’s cultural beliefs. There’s so much to explore about zombie fact and fiction that we’ve dedicated a separate article to it.

Learn all about Haitian zombies here.

haitian vodou practitioners with head scarfs during ceremony
Women at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. True or false: vodou and Christianity first merged in the new world.


Answer: False!

Many of the slaves brought to Hispaniola from northern and central Africa between the 16th and 18th centuries practiced the African form of Vodou. Since the colony’s slave code required all slaves to convert to Christianity, Vodou dances were strictly forbidden, and slaves could not observe their religion openly. They found themselves borrowing many elements from Catholicism to disguise and thus maintain their spiritual practice.

Lwa were assigned the faces of corresponding Saints. For example, Saint Peter holds the keys to the kingdom of heaven and corresponds to Papa Legba, who in Vodou is the gatekeeper to the spirit world. This process, known as syncretization, is why visitors to Haiti can see paintings for sale of a figure who appears to be Mary Mother of Jesus with black skin, and not know that they are really looking at a portrayal of Erzulie Dantò.

What is even less known is that this syncretization began hundreds of years earlier, before the first captured slave was ever sold on Haiti’s shores.

Long before Christopher Columbus docked on the island of Hispaniola, Portuguese monks visited the kingdom of Kongo, from where much of Haitian Vodou originates. These early Christian missionaries arrived in the capital after a long journey, appearing before the Kongo chief and his queen. They wore the plain beige robes of the medieval Jesuit priesthood.

The priests brought with them ornate golden crosses and, with permission, set up shop as missionaries do. They began to learn the local language, communicated as best they could, and shared stories about the Christian Holy Trinity, the resurrection story of Jesus, and the work of the Holy Spirit. In historical letters written to Portugal’s king and queen, the missionaries recount how the Kongo high court was fascinated with the Jesuit’s religion and adopted certain stories into their own belief systems.

The cross and the story of Jesus’s death and resurrection was integrated into the system of traditional Vodou lwa spirits and ancestor worship in the Kongo, which was then taken to Haiti by 16th-century African slaves. The Christian cross became a symbol for the crossroads, which represents life-altering choices and steps along the spiritual path for followers of Vodou in both its African and Haitian expressions to this day.

man carrying decorated cross during vodou ceremony
Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

6. True or false: it’s dangerous to attend a Vodou ceremony because you’ll get possessed.

Answer: False!

One of non-initiates’ greatest fears when it comes to Vodou is being possessed by spirits against their will. While possession does take place at Vodou ceremonies, there is little danger that a spectator will be spontaneously “ridden” by the lwa.

For a vodouwizan, being possessed is like momentarily disappearing in order to become the physical vessel for a lwa. The actions and words of the possessed are believed to be the loa expressing itself, addressing others, advising or consoling, encouraging or scolding, punishing or healing through the Vodouwizan.

For practitioners of Vodou, there is nothing strange or special about possession. It can happen at any moment, and can last anywhere from a few minutes to hours or even days.

If this sounds scary, it’s helpful to remember that an immense amount of training, initiation, not to mention financial resources and sacred planning go into holding a Vodou ceremony. People are looking for answers to real problems around financial ruin, broken relationships, and discord. Each ceremony is held with a specific purpose or intention, and it would not be accomplished if the possessed chwal (or “horse”) wasn’t up to the task of the full participation required of their role.

For the same reason, it is exceedingly unlikely that a spectator at a Vodou dans (ceremony) would spontaneously be possessed. In fact, it is extremely rare for a non-initiate to be invited to participate in a major way in an important Vodou ceremony.

Experience Vodou on your visit to Haiti

Further reading 

For an accessible, illuminating read about Vodou, see Boukman Eksperyans songstress Mimirose Beaubrun’s Nan Domi – An initiate’s journey into Haitian Vodou.  Available in French and English.

For more about the vèvè cosmograms representing the lwa, see the fantastic illustrations and explanations found in a trilingual book by Milo Regaud, Ve-Ve Diagrammes Rituels du Voudou : Ritual Voodoo Diagrams : Blasones de los Vodu – Trilingual ed.Text in French, English, and Spanish.

Mama Lola: A Vodou Priestess in Brooklyn by anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown. Released in 1991, this book is credited with making great strides toward the destigmatisation of Haitian Vodou.

Afro-Caribbean Religions: An Introduction to Their Historical, Cultural, and Sacred Traditions, by Nathaniel Samuel Murrell. Includes 40 pages on Haitian Vodou.

*A quick word about the different spellings of Vodou: some scholars still use the spelling “voodoo;” however, Haitian Vodou initiates and supportive academics prefer alternate spellings such as Vodou, Vodon, Vodun or Vodu.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published June 2021


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Return to the Motherland

man sitting in the front of a small boat with ocean and mountains
Sunset in Baraderes
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Return to the Motherland

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Filmmaker Hans Augustave once shared a quote from his tour guide in Haiti on social media which read, “If every Muslim should go to Mecca once in their life, every Black person should go to Haiti!”. History is forever marked by the fact that Haiti is the first black nation to gain its independence from colonizers in the world, and by doing so, an example was set for other nations to follow. That emancipation set the tone for a wave of black consciousness among slaves around the world and continues to this day to inspire many who attempt to break free from the patterns of dependency and reconnect with their land and culture of origin, specifically people of color.

Many of those living in the Haitian diaspora can relate to feeling like Haiti is a land so close, but ever so far away. Even if you haven’t bought a ticket to visit yet, you know of all the tales of your family’s hometown through the oral history shared by mothers, aunts, and grandmothers surrounding you – but there are gaps that this history cannot bridge.

This is the importance of a homecoming.

Whether you are connected to Haiti through your parents or otherwise, it should be on your list of top 5 places to travel to next for one simple reason: as a descendent of Haitians first, but also as a Black person, your heritage courses through the island. Just like the Year of Return for Ghana and many other West African countries, Haiti can be considered a home away from home.

view over a lush green valley from a mountain top
View of Port Français, Plaine-du-Nord
Photo: Mozart Louis

Why come back?

If you have family still living in Haiti that you keep in touch with, coming to Haiti will quickly show you that phone calls sometimes fall through. There’s nothing like hugging a cousin who always says “Hello!” before passing the phone to his mom, or seeing the uncle all the family stories feature, or getting to know neighbors who saw family leave, but who still remember the days of the past, and miss them dearly. Facing origins means facing home, too.

As any frequent traveler to Haiti will tell you, the experience begins when you get off the plane at the Toussaint Louverture international airport (if you’re landing in Port-au-Prince). From the sudden, warm heat that envelops you when you get off the plane, to the troubadour band playing outside the customs office, everything primes you for the experience of finally making it to the land of your elders.

Reasons to come back will surface all along your trip. You will find them in the sweet, tender, ripe flesh of Batis mangoes, or in the crispy, savory bits of fried pork eaten on late nights out with friends and family, in front of a street food vendor’s kitchen. If you come home during the summer, you’ll have the luxury of experiencing the island’s finest fresh produce, lively events – many of which happen closer to your neighborhood than you think, and peak season for cultural events happening in the capital city. Should you be in Haiti during the winter, reasons to come back will paint themselves in the vivid colors of the sunsets, in the playfulness of children’s faces under Christmas lights in Pétion-Ville, and in the hope that new year’s celebrations offer to everyone on the island.

If you are looking for reasons to come visit Haiti, your best bet is coming to see them for yourself.

haitian women carrying produce in baskets on their heads
Street vendors in Pétion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

What does Haiti offer?

Besides its beautiful beaches and breath-taking hikes, every inch of Haiti is an open window on the history that has affected black lives around the world. If going back to your ancestral roots is something you value as a black traveler, Haiti should definitely be on your itinerary.

The celebration of the black identity can be found in historic sites such as Citadelle Laferrière or any other fort, as well as in the food, the dances, the cultural celebrations, music, and even the language! Haiti holds one of the most unique blends of African heritage and contemporary Latin American and Caribbean tastes and cultures.

people surfing on a coast with palm trees and sun setting behind mountains
Surfers on the beach in Kabik, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Verdy Verna

When to travel?

If you want to experience Haiti as the true home away from home that it can be, February is a time of the year when rhythm and spices are flowing all over the island. Carnival is a very Carribean affair, but to experience it in Haiti is a double-whammy; every Sunday, for about a month, then very intensely for 3 days, Haiti becomes a bubbling hub of celebration of Haitian music, dances, and colors. If one looks and experiences more deeply though, it’s an important period for the Vodou religion and community rooted in Benin and other West African countries.

During Kanaval and more specifically the pre-carnival period, those who practice or follow the religion take their celebrations to the streets under the form of raras and often are mixed up with regular citizens simply celebrating Kanaval. Rara is a dance and ceremonial form of expression rooted in Haitian identity, its presence in Vodou has served many historical moments such as the Bois Caïman Vodou ceremony which was pivotal in the declaration of Haitian independence.

Rara can also be experienced in November (hint: get away from the cold!) which is a culturally and historically rich month for Haiti as well. On November 2nd, the day of the dead is celebrated in both the Catholic community and the Vodou community meaning that there is a larger presence and visibility for these groups in the streets and in cemeteries. November also houses the anniversary of the Battle of Vertières which was pivotal to the Haitian Revolution.

There is something to be said about finally knowing and understanding where one is from. Haiti prides itself on being one of the warmest islands of the Caribbean, both in temperature, and in temperament. There are always the open arms of family, friends, and hosts who want nothing more than to share their favorite parts of home with you. If you considered planning a trip to Ghana, Nigeria or any other African country, consider starting with one of the most afro-affirmative Carribean countries in your journey to self-discovery. Depending on where you’re coming from, getting to Haiti can be more accessible or affordable, but regardless, it will always be an essential experience in the black traveler’s journey.


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published September 2020


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Fort Ogé

fort oge fortress on mountain top with ocean view
Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

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While most of us know the city of Jacmel as the picturesque home of Haitian art, culture, and popular beachfronts, it is also where you’ll find Fort Ogé.

Tiny compared to the towering Citadelle Laferrière, Fort Ogé often gets overlooked when it comes to adventurers’ itineraries, but comparisons aside, this fort is impressive and well worth exploring in its own right.

aerial view fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside
Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

Right around the time Haiti was seizing its independence from the slave-owning colonial upper class, resistance leaders like Jean-Jacques Dessalines ordered the construction of forts all over liberated territories, built to provide safe refuge for the newly freed people and to deter counteroffensives, in case the French returned and tried to retake the island. This era became known as the fortification of Haiti, and Fort Ogé, built in 1804, is one of about 20 military sites fortified during this period. Fort Ogé was named after Vincent Ogé, one of the most popular Haitian revolutionaries.

Fort Ogé was undamaged by the 2010 earthquake and stands strong to this day. Built over two centuries ago, the still-imposing fortress will have you asking “how?” – how did independence leaders know to build a fortress in such a strategic place, and how was it done with the limited tools available at the time? How did they carry multiple heavy canons up the slope to the fortress?

Compared to Citadelle Laferriere, the largest fortress in Haiti (and one of the largest fortresses in all of the Americas), Fort Ogé is not as swamped by tourists, making it a great destination if you came to Haiti looking for an adventure away from the crowds but accidentally found yourself here during peak season.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel
Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Guided tours

The real gem waiting to be discovered when you explore Fort Ogé is the history behind how it was built – hidden to most, but in plain sight for those who know how to look. This is why a personal guided tour is the best way to see the site – local guides can narrate the history of the fort as you explore, right down to the specific uses of the different dungeons.

As is the case at almost every landmark or sightseeing location in Haiti, children run around the site playing, and some members of local committees will most likely come up to greet you and show you around. The site is cared for and used by the residents of the area, as are many other national treasures, to help bridge the gap left behind by the Ministry of Culture. Locals are always ready to give a taste of true Haitian hospitality – which of course includes suggestions for where to get fed, what else you should see during your trip, and where to find the best entertainment.

You’ll find that at times where visitors are few and far between, the fort is an integral part of the townsfolk life; children play soccer there, and old folks wander around. By paying a small entry fee and/or hiring a personal guide, you’ll be contributing to the development of the area through community projects.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside
Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

Located about an hour east of Jacmel, Fort Ogé is close to other historical landmarks including Cap Rouge, as well as other top Haitian destinations like Bassin BleuRaymond le Bains beach and the charming fishing village of Marigot.

The easiest starting point to get to Fort Ogé is the city of Jacmel. If you are driving in your own car, start out towards Cayes-Jacmel. Once reach the Jacmel Airport (it will be on your left), make a left onto Avenue Gerald M. Mathurin. From there, it’s very simple; just follow the signs up to Fort Ogé! The road up to the fort is quite rough, though, and so your drive will be much more successful in a four-wheel drive vehicle.

If you do not have a car, don’t worry— you can still make it to the fort by moto! At the corner of the Jacmel Airport, you will find a throng of moto drivers, ready to go. The fee to get to the fort should be 500 HTG, and this should include your driver waiting for you at the fort— and therefore receiving payment from you when you are back in the city. Make sure to pick out a moto that can handle the rocky road and sharp inclines!


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published December 2019


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Ten of the Best Books about Haiti

A woman wearing a bikini relaxes in a window holding a book
Relaxing in a window in Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

The 10 books you should read before you visit Haiti

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Did you know that in Haitian vodou, a healer and a sorcerer are two completely different things? There are so many things to learn about Haitian culture and history that sometimes, the details slip between the fingers. The best way to catch them? Get comfortable with a good book!

Planning a visit to Haiti, or just want a closer understanding of this “land with a soul”? Here are the top 10 books that explore the fascinating history and culture of Haiti.

Masters of the Dew by Jacques Roumain

For those of us who love literature, nothing replenishes our sense of self or our faith in humanity like a good novel. Speaking of humanity, Masters of the Dew by Jacques Roumain, published in 1944 just a few months before the death of its author, is a Haitian literary classic par excellence.

Masters of the Dew is a deeply powerful story of traditional life in rural Haiti, overshadowed by the natural world but illuminated by human struggles. The novel touches on the necessity for a man to confront adversities great and small, from the need for freedom and a future for an entire population, to the need for water, soil and silk. Masters of the Dew is a parable of sorts, and compelling argues that the most beautiful mathematical equation is an addition.

Roumain was deeply invested in politics, and is famous in Haiti for founding one of the nation’s most important institutions for cultural preservation, the National Bureau of Ethnology, as well as resisting American occupation and advocating for Marxism. In fact, it was only thanks to the help of Roumain’s friends in France, André Breton and Aragon (both antifascists and members of the French surrealist movement), that Masters of the Dew was able to see the light of day in France.

We can’t mention Jacques Roumain without introducing another Jacques (and another of Haiti’s great novelists) – Jacques Stephen Alexis.

General Sun, My Brother by Jacques Stephen Alexis

Son of Haitian diplomat and novelist Stephen Alexis (1889–1962), Jacques Stephen Alexis distinguished himself early in life as a brilliant writer and politician. Another outspoken Marxist and close friend of the French surrealists, Jacques Stephen Alexis was already a respected thinker when he published his debut novel, General Sun, My Brother.

The story follows the life of two Haitian laborers from the slums of Port-au-Prince to the cane fields of the Dominican Republic, where they find themselves swept up into one of the most nightmarish moments in the diplomatic history of Hispaniola: the 1937 massacre. Strongly inspired by Roumain’s Masters of the Dew, General Sun, My Brother is a call to action, a refusal of passivity.

In the Flicker of an Eyelid by Jacques Stephen Alexis

Building on the acclaim of his debut novel, In the Flicker of an Eyelid propelled Alexis to his reputation as a genius writer. Another pillar of the Haitian classical canon, In the Flicker of an Eyelid is considered the most beautiful romance novel in Haitian literature. The story begins in a bordello in Port-au-Prince, but don’t let that mislead you – more than just a love story, this novel interweaves lessons about love, doubt, politics, social consciousness, patriotism, and the passage of time.

Rires et Pleurs (Laughs and Cries) by Oswald Durand

If you’re open to poetry and get sentimental about sunsets, reach for Rires et Pleurs (Laughs and Cries)Rires et Pleurs carries in it all of the symbolic weight of a people freshly liberated and on a quest for beauty. Oswald Durand is to poetry what Alexis is to novels.

Les Cinq Lettres by Georges Castera

“It is not with ink that I write to you but with my voice of drums besieged by falling stones”

Has a man loved before like Georges Castera in Les Cinq Lettres? “Love me like a burning house” is the poet’s request in this collection, and if you love French poetry then you and Les Cinq Lettres will get on like a house on fire.

So Spoke the Uncle by Jean Price-Mars

Want to learn more about Haitian culture and identity through a sociological/scientific framework? You’ll want to start with the book that sits at the root of the largest sociocultural movement of the Caribbean and Africa: blackness. In So Spoke the Uncle, Jean Price-Mars preaches a return to Haitan cultural origins. After all, he says, how do we know where we’re going if we don’t know where we come from?

Today, So Spoke the Uncle remains a the go-to reference text for anthropologists consulting the concepts and events crucial to Haiti’s history.

The Equality of Human Races by Anténor Firmin

Long before Price-Mars, Anténor Firmin was writing The Equality of Human Races to show that there was no such thing as race and that black, white, brown, or in between, the human species is one being, united and indivisible. One of the biggest public high schools in Port-au-Prince is named after Firmin.

Peintres Haitiens by Gerard Alexis

Interested in Haitian art? Peintres Haitiens by Gerard Alexis should be right up your alley. With over 300 color reproductions and text including art theory and artists’ biographies, Alexis explores five tenements of Haitian art: portrait and historical paintings, nature and daily life, vodou mysticism and figuration-abstraction.

Voodoo: Search for the Spirit by Laennec Hurbon

And if you want to quench your curiosity for Haitian vodou, we strongly recommend Voodoo: Search for the Spirit by Laennec Hurbon. Neither in-depth study nor lighthearted foray, Voodoo: Search for the Spirit offers an excellent, accessible, practical overview of the topic, enriched by pages and pages of gorgeous full-color photos and excerpts from other literature on vodou.

Haiti: the Aftershocks of History by Laurent Dubois

“As acclaimed historian Laurent Dubois demonstrates, Haiti’s troubled present can only be understood by examining its complex past. The country’s difficulties are inextricably rooted in its founding revolution – the only successful slave revolt in the history of the world; the hostility that this rebellion generated among the surrounding colonial powers; and the intense struggle within Haiti itself to define its newfound freedom and realize its promise.” ― Macmillan

Here’s what the critics say about Haiti: the Aftershocks of History:

“Well-written, authoritative history… enriched by careful attention to what Haitian intellectuals have had to say about their country over the last two centuries.” ―The New York Times Book Review

“A sweeping, passionate history of Haiti… Smart, honest, and utterly compelling, this book is the national biography this country and its people deserve.” ―Boston Globe

“A book as welcome as it is timely: a lucid one-volume history of the nation, from Toussaint to the present, anchored in scholarship but rendered as a comprehensive-but-swift narrative for the general reader.” ―The Nation

“This excellent, engaging history seeks to strip away centuries of mocking and reductive bias. Dubois’s Haiti is a land of ceaseless activity, a ferment of suppression and insurrection exacerbated by the mercenary intrusions of foreign powers–in the past century, chiefly the United States. Dubois also traces a parallel history of bold social experiments on the part of everyday Haitians… Throughout, he makes clear how economic pressures and political crises have left even the county’s better leaders hamstrung, without downplaying their failures in fulfilling Haiti’s great promise.” ―The New Yorker

Read more critics’ reviews for Haiti: the Aftershocks of History.

Bonus:

La Belle Amour Humaine by Lyonel Trouillot

Mon Pays Que Voici by Anthony Phelps

History of Haiti by Suzy Castor. French edition (Haiti Autrement) available online here


Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2019


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