Festivals

Krik-krak! – The Haitian Tradition of Storytelling

May 29, 2020 by admin

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard — Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Krik-krak! (and tim-tim!)

An oral tradition as old as the birth of Haiti, folk storytelling — or tire kont — is one of the pillars at the center of the country’s culture, and must be practiced to survive from generation to generation

“In my family, we are four, but when one of my brothers and sisters is not there, we can’t do anything…” Do you know the answer?

What you’ve just read is an example of a captivating Haitian cultural tradition known as kont, or “tales”. The scene in which you’ll hear these usually begins at nightfall, when children leave the warmth of their family homes to reunite outside and do what Haitians call tire kont – “telling tales”. These tales aren’t really stories, but rather short charades, each more amusing than the one before, based on the details and small objects of everyday life, and told in very colorful language. The practice of tire kont is often referred to as krik-krak! or tim-tim! because of the call-and-response formula of the charades.

haitian boys sitting in port-au-prince — Boys gathered for Krik-krak storytelling in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

How krik-krak works

The taleteller, the one who usually knows the answer to the charade, signals the start of a charade by calling “Krik!” To this, everyone replies: “Krak!”

When the taleteller says krik, they’re saying, “Prepare yourself, I have something for you to guess.” After people respond with “Krak!”, the taleteller continues: “Tim tim?” and the assembly replies, “Bwa chèch.”

“I may be small, but I have honored the greatest men.”

At this point, it’s up to the fastest person to answer. Suggestions shoot up from every corner: candle? Pen? Notebook? And if no one knows the answer, everyone admits defeat by saying, “Mwen bwè pwa.” Then, and only then, the taleteller reveals the answer to the riddle. Krik-krak is a communal practice that says a lot about Haitian people’s way of life. The tale, just like music and literature, contributes to keeping the Creole language alive and dynamic.

The practice of krik-krak / tim-tim is inherited from Haitians’ ancestors in Africa. In So Spoke the Uncle, Jean Price-Mars explains that similar practices appear in other countries where most of the population is descended from Africa, like Guadeloupe, and that the same krik-krak formula is still in use in some places in Africa.

Alongside riddles, there are also stories told to children and adults that follow the same formula, and which participate in the transmission of Haitian’s collective communal values and morality. Some tales, such as “Tezin” and “Ti Soufri”, are widespread across Haiti. Just like the fables and fairytales, these stories carry moral lessons and reflect social mores.

Haitian storytelling: growing or vanishing?

Orality occupies an extremely important place in Haiti, to the point where even Vodou, the most popular religion, is preserved overwhelmingly through oral traditions, including a strictly oral form of literature called odyans. The Haitian tale puts in perspective ways of life of the lower class and of people living in the countryside, where themes such as ownership, death, inheritance and family resurface often – familiar themes in European fairytales, which likewise often centre on the rural working-class. Although the social rite of telling stories around campfires is older than history itself, and the Haitian call-and-response guessing game is anchored in ancient African modes of storytelling, krik-krak! stands out as a unique treasure of Haitian culture, and one that both reflects and co-creates Haitian society.

However, since kont are handed down generation through generation orally, some rarely-told tales are at risk of disappearing…

haitian boys sitting together laughing — Boys gathered for krik-krak storytelling in Bois Moquette – Photo: Franck Fontain

There’s a Krik-krak! festival in March, and you’re invited!

Since 2009, an annual storytelling festival called Kont Anba Tonèl – the Intercultural Festival of Tales – has been hosted in Port-au-Prince as well as Jérémie and other provincial cities. Held every March, starting on World Story Day (March 20), the festival is largely an effort to showcase Haitian modes of storytelling, keeping the practice of krik-krak! alive. And it seems to be working – more and more comedians are turning to a career of professional taleteller, and some radio stations recover audio files of tales, archiving them to hold them in safekeeping for the future generations we hope will continue the practice.

If you visit Haiti during the last two weeks of the month of March, you’ll be able to attend the Kont Anba Tonèl festival and immerse yourself in an ancestral practice. Expect to hear a wealth of tales, attend talks by professional tale-collectors, and participate in workshops teaching many modes of storytelling, including krik-krak!. On that note…

“Krik? Gets dressed to the nines to stay at home?”
“Krak! The bed, of course…”

Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2020

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Dondon grottoes

April 21, 2020 by admin

view from inside a cave with vines in entrance — View of Dondon from inside a grotto
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dondon grottoes

Located in the mountains of northern Haiti, Dondon has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno peoples lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

vodou symbol painted on a cave floor — Vodou vèvè inside a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

The grottoes

Dondon’s spectacular cave system has ten separate grottoes. Some are easy to access and have a given name: Ladies’ Vault, Marc-Antoine grotto, Smoke Vault, Cadelia Vault, Saint Martin Vault, Minguet Vault and Michel grotto, all named because of their individual history.

Some of these caves were Taíno cult locations during the pre-colombian period, where the Taínos would come to pray to their gods. One of the gods prayed to in times of drought is still visible on the walls of the grotto, and in post-colonial times is venerated by vodouwizan as an important figure within vodou. The other grottoes remain unnamed, their histories steeped in mystery.

Guided tours

Many Dondon area locals – young and old – are happy to jump into the role of guide for the grottoes. Some have learned by heart formulas in French and English, which can make for charming – if confusing – conversation.

Experienced and impromptu guides will be more than happy to help you discover the best spots, hidden petroglyphs and the history infusing these grottoes – some of this history only survives as stories handed down from generation to generation, so you won’t find it anywhere else.

haitian man sitting on donkey drinking in river — A man on a donkey by Riviere Bouyaja in Dondon
Photo: Anton Lau

Festivals in Dondon

Every town in Haiti has its own patron saint festival. In Dondon, pilgrims come from far and wide to celebrate Saint Martin of Tours. Some come here to party, others come as tourists to observe, but most are here to honor the Vodou divinities, the lwa believed to live here. The patron saint festival of Saint Martin of Tours happens in Dondon on November 9 – 11, but party preparations start on November 7. For five days, crowds filter into Dondon to savor kleren, eat delicious griot, and dance to troubadour music from morning ‘til night.

There is also the Dondon Festival, held from July 18 to 23. This festival is about Dondon itself rather than lwa, and draws vacationers who come to take advantage of the great swimming spots in nearby rivers, go on excursions and participate in the conferences that take place for the occasion.

What else is nearby?

Dondon is close to the UNESCO World Heritage Sans-Souci Palace and Citadelle Laferrière, which locals call the eighth wonder of the world. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any visit to Haiti, and the journey there is well-worth the effort.

Fort Moïse, on top of the Saint Martin Vault, is also close by. Other attractions include the Kota waterfall and the historical Vincent Ogé residence. The on-site coffee co-op at the residence is a great place to taste the very particular flavor of Haitian coffee.

cave entrance with vines and trees — Overgrown entrance to a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to the Dondon grottoes

Dondon is located in the north of Haiti, about a two hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien. The journey to Dondon will take you over roads that are winding and can be pretty rough in places. On paper (or GPS), the route through the town of Saint-Michel might look good, but that road serves up more adventure than most travellers are looking for, and we don’t recommended it. The best way to get to Dondon we’ve found is this one:

From Port-au-Prince, drive out of the capital towards Cap-Haïtien via Route Nationale #1. The road to Cap-Haïtien makes up the longest chunk of the drive, but its recent completion makes it a comfortable trip, not to mention a scenic one, with many towns to stop in along the way, each with their own character. Once in Cap-Haïtien, continue towards the town of Milot. Make a left after you pass Rivière du Nord, and in another hour or so you’ll arrive at Dondon.

There’s no formal fee to see the caves but you’ll need to hire a (formal or informal) guide. Remember to bring food and drinks with you for the trip as there’s no guarantee you’ll find anything on site, although Lakou Lakay is a great place to stop for lunch if you’re travelling via Milot.

Written by Jean Fils and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2020

Find the Dondon grottoes

External Links

Learn more about Dondon

Wikipedia

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Explore Jérémie

February 6, 2020 by admin

haitian man and woman posing behind a rocking chair — Nansky & Gina at their guesthouse in Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Explore Jérémie

At the end of a 180-mile journey west along Haiti’s southern peninsula, Jérémie is a busy coastal town with mountains cascading at its back. A city full of history and character, you’ll want to dedicate a couple of days to fully explore.

If you’ve travelled through the north of Haiti before (especially driving from Port-au-Prince to Cap-Haïtien through Mirebalais) the drive to Jérémie is reminiscent of watching Lake Péligre peek from between the curves in the road. The Grand’Anse river that gives this part of Haiti its name courses from its birthplace in the Pic Macaya National Park down through mountains to where it meets the sea just south of the town of Jérémie.

The Grand’Anse is the reason Jérémie was founded, and is important as a direct source of irrigation for fields and livestock. The communities that live and work all along the river are diverse, but through the river all are connected into a long, narrow, close-knit neighborhood.

Way out west, Jérémie boasts a self-possessed rural charm, a sort of independence from the rest of the island, and a kind of defiance in the face of time. In Jérémie, centuries-old traditions are still alive today, side-by-side with the modernity of a 21st century Haiti.

interior of church during service — Inside the Saint Louis King of France cathedral, Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Top attractions in Jérémie

Anse d’Azur – A spectacular sandy bay with a sunken German U-boat and a gorgeous cave system, Anse d’Azur is as picturesque as the very best of Caribbean beaches (minus the crowds).

Saint Louis King of France cathedral – The same romanticism in Jérémie’s literature infuses its architecture. If reading the works of Jérémie’s writers has inspired you, or if you’re into architecture or design, you’ll want to see the city’s Saint Louis King of France Cathedral (French: Cathédrale Saint-Louis-Roi-de-France de Jérémie). Built on the site of an ancient temple that burned down in 1874, the Cathedral is an imposing deep-red with white detail, pulling together elements of Haitian architecture familiar to travellers who have seen Port-au-Prince’s Gingerbread Houses, Iron Market, or the cathedral of Hinche.

Patron saint festival of Saint Louis – The Cathedral really shines during the month of August, when Jérémie gears up to celebrate the patron saint festival of Saint Louis King of France on the 25th. The city and surrounding parish come alive in prayer, festivities, and good times all around.

Kay Gina & Nansky – Being in Jérémie during the summertime is a great opportunity to visit Kay Gina & Nansky! Art-lovers Gina and Nansky have successfully curated a space that feels like both an altar and an exhibition, featuring artworks created by Haitian artists from Jérémie, Jacmel, Port-au-Prince and other cities right across Haiti. They also offer the opportunity to stay with them at their guest house, for $30 a night; the nice clean rooms are 10 minutes away from an amazing, immersive local experience in town, and breakfast can be tacked onto your stay for a small additional fee. Kay Gina & Nansky is a great place to get a quick bite of traditional carnival foods such as beignets—sweet banana fritters. A must-visit if you’re in town during any patron saint festival or kanival.

older haitian man in white shirt and black pants — Old man in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

City of Poets

Jérémie has produced some of Haiti’s most prominent figures of literature, earning it the nickname of “the City of Poets”. Poets Émile Roumer and Jean-Fernand Brierre, as well as Alexandre Dumas’ father, all hailed from the City of Poets, and carried Haitian literature far and wide with them wherever they or their works set foot. Jérémie became a literary powerhouse that would later come to surpass the capital and inspire writers across the young Haitian nation. You’ll see plenty of monuments to poets and poetry while you’re here.

haitian house with pool and balcony — Makay Villa in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Where to sleep

This far southwest, you won’t any all-inclusive resorts, but Jérémie is full of AirBnB options. By far, the best of these is Place Charmant; just a few minutes of driving away from downtown Jérémie, it sits atop a hill with an outstanding view overlooking the bay. Here, you can enjoy dipping in the large pool while using the city’s most reliable WiFi. Place Charmant’s rooms start at $80 per night, breakfast and dinner included.

If you’re travelling in a group, Makay Villa is ideal. With a pool overlooking a small bay, and access to a small semi-private beach, it’s a great place to call home during your stay in Jérémie.

haitian konparet cakes being baked in oven — Konparèt bakery in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Must-try Flavors

You can’t trek the six-hour drive to Jérémie and not try its local specialty: konparèt. A rich, dense, almost pound-cake-like sweet biscuit, konparèt brings together the classic Caribbean flavors of coconut and ripe bananas, as well as warming accents from West Indies spices like cinnamon and vanilla. The delicacy is ubiquitous in the town of Jérémie, but when it makes the long journey back to Port-au-Prince with visitors, it is highly coveted – no bakery anywhere else on Hispaniola can replicate the real thing from Jérémie.

Meet the Locals

Tag along with us and Wilmar Belizaire from Jérémie as we take you to her favorite places to see, sleep, and savor in the city.

Need to Know

Jérémie is a town on the western edge of Haiti’s southern peninsula, famous as a birthplace of poets and for its striking turn-of-the-century cathedral.

Anse d’Azur – this spectacular sandy bay nearby is as picturesque as the very best of Caribbean beaches (minus the crowds).

August is the best time to visit, while Jérémie gears up for the patron saint festival of Saint Louis King of France.

Kay Gina & Nansky is a great place to browse art and get a quick bite of traditional carnival foods.

Makay Villa is the best place to sleep while you’re in town.

Konparèt – the essence of the Caribbean, distilled into a cake-like cookie. Win friends and favours by bringing this coveted delicacy back to Port-au-Prince.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published February 2020

Our recommendations

Fèt Gede – the Haitian Day of the Dead

February 1, 2020 by admin

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede — Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Fèt Gede – the Haitian Day of the Dead

Fèt Gede – the Haitian Day of the Dead – is an annual tradition when practitioners of vodou parade through the streets, possessed by the spirits of the dead (gede)

Every year, on November 1 and 2, Haiti becomes the stage for a unique celebration: Fèt Gede, the “Festival of the Dead”. Much like the Day of the Dead practiced in Mexico and by Latin communities in the US, Fèt Gede is a way to pay respects to loved ones who have passed on.

In Haiti, each religion celebrates this differently: Catholics meet at church for a mass dedicated to the deceased, and Protestants come together too — but adherents of one of the country’s state religions — vodou — celebrate their deceased in a much more festive way. Although it overlaps with the concept and calendar space of Christian All Souls Day, Fête Gede traces its origins to African ancestral traditions, preserved across oceans and centuries in modern-day Haiti.

Gede shows are notoriously loud and extravagant, and can be seen nearly everywhere across Haiti, with Vodou practitioners dressed elaborately to represent the subset of lwa or loa — “spirits” — called gede — “the dead”. Gede may be invisible for the rest of the year, but during Fèt Gede, the dead definitely do not go unnoticed!

See more photos from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves here!

Fèt Gede celebrations
Photo: Franck Fontain

Vodou, lwa and gede

Vodou is a prominent feature of Haitian culture, and as a religion it has many practitioners — called vodouwizan — spread across the country. The religious syncretism between vodou and christianity has historically made it difficult to make an official estimate of numbers of practitioners, since most people who practice Haitian vodou to some extent also identify with a Christian denomination, but unofficial estimates suggest as much as 50% of Haitians practice vodou. For these vodouwizan, Fèt Gede is an important occasion to honor the gede.

But what are the gede exactly?

Every vodouwizan has their own gede. It’s either a close friend or a relative – the gede is the reincarnation of a loved one who has come from the afterlife to live in the body of the vodouwizan who called upon them. But not every ancestor is venerated as a gede. For the dead to become a gede, the vodouwizan must, through a Vodou ceremony, contact the deceased and transform them into a gede, which they can then invoke as they see fit.

According to vodou, by becoming a gede, the deceased are transformed from being simply a human soul that has passed on into a lwa, and this lwa generally has a name that begins with gede, for example, gede loray, with loray meaning “thunder.” Sometimes a relative who served a gede dies, and another vodouwizan decides to take up servitude of that same gede.

Party in the cemetary

During gede celebrations, the streets of every city are full of vodouwizan. On November 1 and 2, vodouwizan come together to around cemeteries to make devotions, perform precise rituals, and to generally honor the deceased.

Every cemetery on the island is overrun by vodouwizan – some possessed by gede, and others not. Those who are possessed are easily recognizable by their attire: dressed in white, black, and purple, their faces covered in white powder and black sunglasses, a walking stick in hand, and the indispensable bottle filled with alcohol and hot peppers (especially kleren and a type of habanero called goat pepper). The gede love hot peppers, and from time to time, in the middle of the street, they pour the pepper-infused alcohol all over their bodies, and particularly on their genitals, writhing and mimicking erotic postures and scenes, much to the delight of spectators.

Possessed by the gede lwa, these men and women cover several miles on foot while dancing, their waists leading their every movement. Following an unspoken instruction, they all share a single final destination: the cemetery. Once at the cemetery, the boisterous spectacle continues with loud singing, erotic dancing, and bodies drenched in spicy substances. Other vodouwizan who have come to visit their deceased relatives and friends take some time to pour coffee and grilled corn on their graves, and talk with the relative or close friend.

But first, paraders must obtain permission to enter the cemetery at the ceremonial grave of the “first man”, Bawon Samdi, and the first woman, Manman Brijit. The gede are a very large family; Bawon Samdi represents the father, Manman Brijit the mother, and they’re followed by Bawon Kriminèl, Gede Nibo, Gede Loray, Brave Gede, and Gede Zanrenyen, who together form an escort for all gede.

Bawon Samdi (/Samedi), also known as Papa Gede, presides over the festivities. Papa Gede’s colors are black, white and purple, and he is often characterized smoking cigars, wearing a top hat and sunglasses – frequently with only one lens. Some say this is because Bawon Samdi sees both worlds, which gives him an uncanny resemblance to the one-eyed god Odin of Nordic mythology, who also tread the path between the dead and the living.

haitian girls in purple/white dresses and painted faces celebrate fet gede — Fèt Gede celebration
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

How to get involved

Each November heralds the sacred and spectacular celebration that is Fèt Gede – a raucous, bawdy, fiery festival that embodies many of the essential elements of Haitian culture, all splashed with bright paint, spicy food, strong drinks, and the rhythm of people’s feet on the pavement.

Fet Gede rituals are held throughout November but are concentrated on November 1 and 2. The biggest and brashest parade happens in Port-au-Prince at The Grand Cemetery, or ‘Grand Cimetière’. If you’re travelling by car, be prepared for the enormous crowds that make it impossible to get near the cemetery – you won’t find a place to park, but a chauffeur should be able to get close enough to at least stop and let you out. Entrance is through the main gates, which reads “Souviens-Toi Que Tu Es Poussiere” (“remember you are dust”).

Written by Jean Fils and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2019

Explore Haitian Vodou & Spiritualism

Explore Pestel

January 14, 2020 by admin

sunrise over the mountains surrounding a small haitian fishing village — Sunrise over Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore Pestel

About 40 miles east of the town of Jérémie in Haiti’s Grand’Anse department, Pestel is a small harbour town full of culture, offering cinematic sunrises, sunsets and laidback charm.

From its rustic seaside markets to unique, unexpected places to explore like nearby caves and islands, Pestel is a place not to be missed if you’re touring Haiti’s southeast.

The far south of Haiti (west of Jacmel and Les Cayes) isn’t as visited by travellers as the rest of Haiti, but is just as worthy as a destination. Here are the top things to see in Pestel.

Sun rising over the seaside village of Pestel, Haiti — Sun rising over Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Wake up with sea breezes

Life in Pestel follows the rhythm of market days – Wednesdays and Saturdays. Early in the morning, you can watch sailboats coast into the city’s port, loaded up with goods from Miragoâne. As the port workers help boats dock and unload, the sea breeze wakes up the town, calling down farmers from the mountains, who supply the town with fresh fruits and vegetables carried by donkeys in saddle-like baskets woven from hay. The entire town of Pestel -house maids, matriarchs, small children sent to run errands – slowly drips into the port, ebbing and flowing between fishmongers and farmers, preparing for the weekend or the new week ahead.

If you’re visiting on market day, you’ll want to make sure that you have enough change on hand, and a reusable bag to take with you so that you can carry your market bounty home.

If you want to stay in Pestel overnight so you can wake up early and watch this gorgeous harbour town come to life, we’ve got you covered. Well and truly off the beaten tourist path, Pestel isn’t exactly crowded with accommodation options, but Madame Jacques’ guesthouse offers a comfortable place to sleep with loads of rustic charm.

Madame Jacques runs a small, simple guesthouse, not a lofty hotel, but her hospitality, loving-kindness (and cooking!) is famous around here. A Haitian mother down to the bone, Madame Jacques prides herself on taking good care of her guests, making sure that you leave her abode with an even better experience of Pestel than you expected.

Fête de la Mer – the Festival of the Sea

Pestel is also the home of Haiti’s one and only Fête de la Mer—the Festival of the Sea. For one long weekend each April, usually from Thursday to Sunday, the city of Pestel hosts various festivities, including a food fair featuring the bounty of the sea, tours to nearby grottoes and sailboat races, the whole thing interspersed with performances by popular Haitian artists.

Fête de la Mer is a great way to explore Haiti and Haitian culture, and to get outside of your city-hopping comfort zone. The Fête de la Mer usually coincides with Easter, and festival organizers will announce the confirmed dates well ahead of time.

interior of cave with massive dripstones — Interior of the Bellony grotto caves
Photo: Franck Fontain

Caves and islands

Have the caves mentioned earlier caught your attention? If they have, you already know that they are a feature of the Fête de la Mer, but if you’re planning to visit Pestel outside the month of April, the caves are still open to visitors. Wander through the cool, secluded, mystical caverns as guides lead you through the history of the caves. Feeling a bit apprehensive about going into the grottoes on your own? Tour agency Haïti Roots runs excursions to the caves, including the most well-known – the Bellony grotto.

Pestel is also a great launchpad for a tour of nearby Cayemites, a cluster of small islands offering their own unique experience. About six miles from Pestel, the Cayemites islands offer an intimate, secluded adventure. Think fine, sandy beaches melting seamlessly into crystal-clear water, with that Caribbean sunshine you’re craving as well as shade offered by the fringe of forest that leans toward the water’s edge.

secluded haitian island with forest and beach — The secluded Anse Blanche beach on Petite Cayemite island
Photo: Anton Lau

Flag of the freedom fighters

Over the last decade or so, Pestel has been the home of a slow-burning political awakening, starting around the time when former death squad leader and political man Guy Philippe was arrested in the city. The arrest brought with it winds of change, independence, and lack of tolerance for wayward governance. In that same spirit, the black and red flag of Haiti’s liberation in 1804 floats freely on a flag pole in the harbor, calmly signaling to one and to all that there is no freedom without unity in the fight for what’s right for all.

Need to Know

Pestel is a harbour town with a vibrant market, incredible sunrises, sunsets and laidback charm.

Madame Jacques’ guesthouse is the place to stay overnight to wake up with the market (Wednesday and Saturday mornings).

Cave and island tours – Haïti Roots runs tours to mystical caves including the Bellony grotto. Charter a boat trip to the Cayemites for an unparalleled exclusive beach experience.

Fête de la Mer – the Festival of the Sea is celebrated in Pestel every April.

haitian fisherman with small wooden cannoe filled with fish — Fisherman in Pestel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2020

Find Pestel

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Festikap Kite Festival

December 13, 2019 by admin

three haitian boys flying a kite — Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Festikap Kite Festival

La Vallée’s vibrant kite festival is the place to be every January 2nd.

Picture this: After a week of adventuring across Haiti, from hikes to road-trips to the beach and hidden waterfalls, it’s time to celebrate the new year. You decide to go to Jacmel and watch the fireworks by the beach. The next day, you throw a picnic blanket in the car, drive up to La Vallée, and admire a sky full of kites while you kick back with food and drinks. You can even try your hand at flying a kite yourself, with the help of other participants or the festival organisers. It will take a little less than 300 gourdes (about US $3) to buy a nice kite and participate.

Because you can buy a kite on arrival, the bar for getting involved is pretty low, so Festikap makes a great spontaneous adventure! The festival happens every January 2nd, making it the perfect activity for anyone planning to spend New Year’s Eve in Jacmel (or – even Port-au-Prince).

Festikap vibes are comparable to Champ-de-Mars in February during carnival. Kites in a stunning display of colors and creativity fill the sky for hours on end: it’s a flying art exhibition. With children running around, elders watching and younger folks flying their kites, the atmosphere in La Vallée is like one big camping trip.

Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Behind the magic

The famous kite-flying festival of La Vallée de Jacmel — or “La Vallée” as locals call it — will be celebrating its 10th anniversary in the coming year. Festikap is a festival put together by the Organization of Young Valley University Students for Progress (Organisation Universitaire de Jeune Valléens pour Le Progrès) with the goal of preserving a tradition deeply rooted in Haitian culture but threatened by forgetfulness and abandonment. This yearly event serves as an entry point to the beautiful community of La Vallée de Jacmel. The celebrations conveniently happen on January 2nd which is a holiday in Haiti (Ancestor’s day).

Kite flying is a vital part of Haitian culture. Starting in the month of April, on the roofs of houses all across the country, children, their parents, and sometimes even their grandparents can be seen tugging on thin, nearly invisible pieces of thread tied up to makeshift kites. Most of them are made of plastic; the kind used to sell papita or roasted peanuts in — some clear, some blue, some pink. Others are more elaborate, made of brown paper with red and green accents, tails, and flourishes. All together, they dot the bright blue skies of early summer in colorful spiraling swarms.

In preparation for Festikap, organizers put together workshops to create a certain number of kites to be exhibited on that day. This festival is not just recreational, though – the preparation process encourages creativity and community engagement from different crowds. The festival hopes to revive interest in the endangered tradition of making and flying kites, and the efforts that go into planning Festikap can be considered as a kind of movement meant to transfer a skill and salvage a tenuous cultural heritage.

haitian boy in blue jeans with kite — Boy with kite at Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

La Vallée is located an hour’s drive northwest of Jacmel and about three hours’ drive southwest of Port-au-Prince. Although the name La Vallée suggests a low valley hidden in shadows, the town actually stands a half mile (around 800 meters) above sea level, and offers a panoramic view of the south of Haiti. A trip up to La Vallée unlocks the perfect experience for anyone hungry for a little bit more than simply spending a weekend at the beach.

Festikap is a great way to experience Haiti differently and genuinely. If colors, music, and community are your thing, it’s a must-visit event to add to your itinerary!

Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published October 2019

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Festivals

Krik-krak! (and tim-tim!)

An oral tradition as old as the birth of Haiti, folk storytelling — or tire kont — is one of the pillars at the center of the country’s culture, and must be practiced to survive from generation to generation

How krik-krak works

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Haitian storytelling: growing or vanishing?

There’s a Krik-krak! festival in March, and you’re invited!

A Visual Guide to Vodou Symbols

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Dondon grottoes

The grottoes

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Guided tours

Festivals in Dondon

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What else is nearby?

Getting to the Dondon grottoes

Find the Dondon grottoes

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A Visual Guide to Vodou Symbols

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Explore Jérémie

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Top attractions in Jérémie

City of Poets

Where to sleep

Must-try Flavors

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Meet the Locals

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A Visual Guide to Vodou Symbols

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Fèt Gede – the Haitian Day of the Dead

Fèt Gede – the Haitian Day of the Dead – is an annual tradition when practitioners of vodou parade through the streets, possessed by the spirits of the dead (gede)

Bring Haiti’s Mystical Art Home!

Vodou, lwa and gede

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Party in the cemetary

How to get involved

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

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Explore Pestel

Wake up with sea breezes

Fête de la Mer – the Festival of the Sea

Caves and islands

Flag of the freedom fighters

Need to Know

Find Pestel

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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Festikap Kite Festival

La Vallée’s vibrant kite festival is the place to be every January 2nd.

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Behind the magic

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Getting there

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

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Plan Your Trip

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A Visual Guide to
Vodou Symbols

start your day
the Haitian way

A Visual Guide to
Vodou Symbols

a touch of
haitian wisdom

A Visual Guide to
Vodou Symbols

start your day
the Haitian way

a touch of
haitian wisdom