Photo Journal
Fèt Gede
Crowd gathered for Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
See the photos from a Fête Gédé celebration in Gonaïves and discover the most anticipated festival in Haitian culture! A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead for both Christians and practitioners of Haitian Vodou.
Share

A Vodou practitioner celebrating Fèt Gede, Gonaïves Cemetary
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fèt Gede rituals at the cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
Those possessed by the gede spirits set the festival’s tone, which is truly carnivalesque. You might hear some rough language, see some dirty dancing, and witness other extravagant performances. All of these provide plenty of entertainment for the more docile crowd that follows along.

A Vodou temple inside the Cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
Fueled by alcohol, as well as hot pepper-based infusions that they sprinkle on their bodies, the procession heads toward the main cemetery. Overtaken by the spirits of the dead, the possessed swear and carry out quite a remarkable performance.

Offerings on a gravestone during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
The spectacle of the procession attracts quite a crowd, and the possessed are easily recognizable due to the ritual colors of Baron Samedi that they wear (white, black, and purple). Some even cover themselves entirely with white powder or draw gloomy scenes on their bodies. Others choose to wear the preferred attire of Baron Samedi, which includes a black hat, monocle, and cane. Altogether, this creates a true Carnival of the Dead that happens every year in Haitian cemeteries.

Preparation during Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
This Festival of the Dead, which comprises rituals and dances all November long, testifies to the intimate link that exists between the world of the living and the world of the dead in Vodou spirituality. For practitioners of Vodou, Fête Gede is really more like a celebration of life. The gede spirits who return via their hosts during possession can attest to this way of thinking. They are brought to life by joy and are spirits who love to laugh, dance, and have fun.

Vodou practitioners during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
All of these wild performances have just one objective: to amuse. The festival is not a moment for tears or regrets but rather a time to honor the memory of the departed. Part of this involves preparing for the festival by cleaning the cemeteries and restoring the tombs.
Those who have sailed for “the land without a hat” — a Haitian expression that means the “beyond,” because no one is buried with their hat — remain present in daily life and are nonetheless celebrated as they should be during this festival given in their honor. In Vodou spirituality, those who have set sail for the world of the dead maintain an important role in everyday life. The spirits of those who have passed on, bearing the name Gede, are respected as guardians, advisors, or vengeful spirits by those who remain.
The Fête Gede festival in Haiti is somewhat similar to the Day of the Dead as practiced in other parts of the world (e.g. Dia de los Muertos). The difference, however, lies in the place that the dead occupy in Vodou belief and in the syncretism underlying the various beliefs that Haitians hold.

Monument for the Gede spirit Brave, Gonaïves Cemetery
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
As a legacy of ancestral African traditions, Vodou reserves an important place for those who have departed this world for the next. In the procession of the Gede, different people portray different divinities, including Baron Samedi, Baron Lacroix, Baron Criminel, Grann Brigitte, and all the other Gede spirits. Much more than simple guardians of death and graveyards, the Gede are also guardians of life.
As such, the celebration of Fèt Gede is not just a celebration to commemorate the dead, but a celebration where the dead can take part by way of possession in the form of Gede spirits.

A Vodou Priestess heading a ceremony for the spirit Brave Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
At the main cemetery in Port-au-Prince, where the biggest iteration of this festival is held each year, Catholics come to pray for the souls of their deceased at the small chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, Protestants come to gather at the graves of their lost loved ones, and practitioners of Vodou come for the largest celebration of the Fête Gede festival in all of Haiti.

A Vodou ritual at a ceremony during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
The festival is at the very crossroads of Haiti’s religious syncretism, with Catholics and Protestants joining the procession to the cemeteries, all worshiping differently but each bearing the same thoughts for the departed, thoughts colored by the beliefs on which these extraordinary celebrations are based.

A Vodou ceremony for the Brave Gede spirit during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
Even if Fèt Gede is held on and around All Saint’s Day and the Day of the Dead, it’s a much different celebration than ones that you might see elsewhere. It’s a true moment of communion between the dead and the living, the latter of whom brings coffee, roasted corn, cassava, clairin (rum), or the favorite dish of the lost loved one.

Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin
One might even be tempted to say that Fèt Gede is much more than a simple set of practices based on certain beliefs about death — rather, it constitutes a genuine philosophy of life, a life that must be lived like a carnival. If we enjoy every moment, it won’t be the Gede who contradict us!
Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.
Published in October 2022.
Explore Haitian Vodou & Spiritualism
From Legba to Erzulie: A Guide to Haitian Vodou Gods & Goddesses
Curious about Haitian Vodou Gods and deities? Unlock the secrets
11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About
Read our guide to unique Haitian cultural traditions that only
Your Ultimate Guide to Carnival in Haiti
Unleash your inner party spirit with our ultimate guide to
Peer into the Studio of Haitian Artist Maxan Jean Louis
Visit the home studio of Maxan Jean Louis, one of
Photo Journal: Gonaïves – The City of Independence
Experience the beauty of the Haitian city Gonaïves through stunning
Ten of the Best Books about Haiti
Cosy up with these ten books that explore the fascinating
Meet the Colorful Characters From the Jacmel Carnival
Discover the unique universe of costumes at the Jacmel Carnival,
Catch a show with Haitian Vodou rock band RAM
Every Saturday night at the Oloffson, the band RAM delivers
Categories
Tags
Share
Subscribe to our newsletter
Get more travel inspiration, tips and exclusive offers sent straight to your inbox