creole cuisine

Haitian Cuisine: A Culinary Map of Haiti

January 2, 2022 by admin

haitian girl smahing breadfruit with a big mortar in courtyard — Girl smashing beadfruit with a pilon for tonmtonm
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Haitian Cuisine: A Culinary Map of Haiti

“A map of Haiti cannot be drawn with just hills and valleys, mountains and beaches…each department has its own culinary speciality”

A culinary map of Haitian food

Come with us on a lip-smacking journey around one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean as we map out the most recognizable landmarks of manje peyi – “country food”, or Haitian cuisine.

Famous for its Caribbean climate, thriving art scene and positive outlook, this little country is certainly not being let down by its food culture. Created by centuries of cultural syncretism, Haitian creole cuisine is a blend of native Caribbean, African and French Colonial cooking styles, with a spicy dash of Spanish influence from the east of the island (and thanks to how well habanero peppers grow here!).

Many “classic” Haitian recipes crystallized early on in Haiti’s republican history, and have survived the test of time, but Haitians pride themselves on innovation, and Haitian food is no exception.

table with a bowl of haitian akasan, bread, cashew nuts, star anis and glass of water — A bowl of akasan
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Start at the beginning

Breakfast in Haiti begins with akasan, a thick, corn-based porridge served with sugar, cinnamon, and coconut milk. Over the years, ingredients like cow’s milk as well as vanilla and almond extracts have been introduced to it, too. The name akasan is part of the language heritage left to us by the indigenous inhabitants of Hispaniola – specifically a tribe called the Arawak, who made up the majority on the island at the time of Hispaniola’s colonization.

The Arawak also left us with the recipe for kasav. Comparable to a galette, kasav is made of cassava, and usually enjoyed with either peanut butter or avocado. Some people innovate and eat their kasav with an omelet or with cheese.

table with haitian coffee, cassava, fruits and peanut butter — Haitian breakfast with kasav
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Today, each department has its own culinary specialty. Coastal cities like Jacmel, Les Cayes and Port-Salut are well known for dishes featuring fresh fish – fried, boiled, grilled, or in a sauce, alongside rice, plantains, or other root vegetables like yam, taro, or sweet potatoes.

Grand’Anse

The department of Grand’Anse, whose capital is Jérémie, is famous for its tonmtonm; a dish originally from Africa, imported to the Caribbean via the slave trade. Tonmtonm is a preparation of pounded breadfruit served with a gonbo sauce — made with okra — usually eaten with the hands. Tradition dictates that the tonmtonm be swallowed without chewing to really appreciate all its flavors.

Grand’Anse is also the home of konparèt: thick, hearty, sweet biscuits made with flour, sugar, and milk, with delicious flavors. It can be eaten as an appetizer, but be careful not to overdo it; it is quite filling.

two plates with mashed breadfruit and haitian tonmtonm — Haitian tonmtonm
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Ouest

The city of Petit-Goâve is noted for its dous makòs; a very sweet milk-based fudge that melts slowly on the tongue. If you stop by Petit-Goâve, a good size piece of dous makòs will make for a great dessert after a plate of freshly-cooked seafood.

Nord

On the other side of the island, up north, everyone agrees that the city of Cap-Haïtien is well-furnished in talented cooks. Hoping to capitalise on this reputation, new restaurants pop up in the city fairly often, meaning there’s always something new to try (and new entrepreneurs to support) for return visitors.

Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Artibonite

Artibonite, just southwest of the Nord department, is Haiti’s HQ for rice and lalo, a stew originating in Africa. Also called Egyptian spinach and West African sorrel, lalo is the local name for jute. In the US and Europe, jute might be better known as a source of rope fibre, but here in Haiti (and across most of Africa and Asia) this multitalented plant is more widely used in cooking.

To make lalo, fresh, bright jute leaves are picked off of the plant and stewed with spinach, onions, peppers, and garlic as well as creole-seasoned cuts of fish or meat. Setting itself apart from lalo dishes available throughout the Artibonite province – and making it especially worth stopping to try – lalo in Montrouis is made with freshly caught sea crabs.

two plates with haitian lalo and rice — Haitian lalo with rice
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

And wherever you go, you’ll find…

Sweet potatoes and corn.

Sweet potatoes feature in several classic Haitian recipes, such as patat ak lèt (potato with milk), made by boiling the potato first, peeling it, then pouring sweet milk onto it, with just a touch of salt, to bring out its natural flavors.

Corn is eaten all over the country as part of many meals. In its most basic form, this staple appears as hot, creamy polenta — called mayi moulen in Haiti. Corn can also be boiled (what a pleasure it is to bite into a juicy corn cob, flavored with the sauce it was boiled in!). It’s the main ingredient in konsonmen, a stew of corn, rice, beans, and other delicious ingredients. Corn also features in tchaka; a thick and rich stew featuring corn, meat (lots of meat) mixed with vegetables and bean purée. You’ll also find corn smoked, and in pèt-pèt. Pèt-pèt is actually just popcorn, but we have to mention this because its Haitian name is just such a joy to say!

Take a culinary trip around Haiti!

A map of Haiti cannot be drawn with just hills and valleys, mountains and beach fronts. Instead of relying solely on a physical itinerary, how about using your current — or next trip — as a way to get to know Haiti through its different flavors? Bold, but always balanced, Haitian cuisine is as varied and nuanced as the people of the island.

Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2022

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

August 5, 2021 by Anton Lau

dramatic haitian coastline with jungle forest and speed boat — Anse Baguette beach near Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

We wish you were here. We know you do, too.

If you’re anything like us, the need for you to connect or even be in Haiti at this moment in time has been stronger than ever before. The last sixteen months have proven to be challenging in ways both familiar and new, and have pushed us to adapt in ways we never would’ve thought possible. As Haiti weathers the storms of the ongoing pandemic, sociopolitical unrest, and the assassination of former president Jovenel Moïse, the feeling of longing for Haiti—and in a way, for those on the island who make us feel like we’re home—is hard to fight off.

Since July 7, Haiti has felt like a liminal space where no one is quite sure where to stand or how to behave. The news of Jovenel Moïse’s assassination shook the capital as hard as it did the surrounding cities and far-away provinces. In the days following the killing, the streets of Port-au-Prince were quieter than they usually are on Sundays; worry and anticipation tainted the air, and people hesitated to venture outside for fear of what would happen next. Even though in the days since, things seem to have regained some kind of normalcy, it is very clear to everyone in Haiti that there is no going “back to normal” at the moment.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings — Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

This leaves people like us—and people like you, too, who are enamored with Haiti, and who want nothing but to run and embrace the island—lost and confused. If the pandemic wasn’t a good time to travel to Haiti for just any reason, the recent events are even more reason to rethink purchasing a plane ticket. Just like you may be anxious to fly in for your summer vacation, we are anxious to recommend that you do so.

What we feel comfortable and eager doing, though, is recommending that you visit Haiti from home.

Right here, on Visit Haiti.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat — Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Cook Your Way Through the Island

One of our favorite things about Haiti is how accessible the country’s history and culture is through its cuisine. A lot of Haitian fruit is accessible in foreign markets, like the unmistakable Haitian mango; consider shopping at your local Caribbean shop for some of our favorite summer flavors. This is also the perfect opportunity to order some of the best rum Haiti has to offer and consider a home tasting. We love how these rums shine next to Haiti’s hall-of-fame dishes, too.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Bring the Outside Inside

If you’re a lover of nature, you might enjoy trying to spot some of Haiti’s wildlife in your neighborhood on the weekend. You’ll be pleased to know that Haiti is home to some really awesome forests, such as Forêt des Pins, too— which you’ll definitely want to put down on your list of places to see on your next trip. We have good news for avid birdwatchers, too: you can probably spot some of Haiti’s winged wildlife where you live.

A woman wearing a bikini relaxes in a window holding a book — Book reading in Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

Learn the Colors of Haiti’s Culture

Now is also a good time to read up on the richness of Haitian heritage and culture, which is sure to taint every step you take around the island as soon as you’re able to travel to Haiti again. We highly recommend checking out what to do at a vodou ceremony, or where to meet and buy from Haiti’s finest metal-workers. And until you can safely make it to the island, our How Haitian Are You quiz and Best books about Haiti Reading List are a good way to make sure you stay on your toes by the time your next trip comes around.

aerial view of coastal village with market area and boats — Sun rising over the port of Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Visit Haiti, Right From Your Screen

One of the ways we are excited to help you visit Haiti from the comfort of your home is through our photo journals. Tag along on a visual and virtual tour of the island. Our photo journals come courtesy of Haitian photographers, and feature different regions all over the country. Right now, you can take a mini-trip to Saint-Marc, Grand’Anse, or even Marigot.

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf — Ann-Sophie in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Ted Olivier Mompérousse

Meet Haiti, Meet the Locals

In another effort to bring you closer to Haiti and its resilient, inspiring, and bright people, we are also pumped to introduce you to our Meet the Locals series. It’s no secret that Haiti and Haitians carry a bold streak; it shows in the food, and it shows in the music. What we want to share is how each individual Haitian contributes to painting the colorful picture that is Haiti today. You can start here, by reading our interview with Ann-Sophie Hamilton, a sustainable tourism advocate.

And watch our video where we speak to Isaac, a painter from Dame-Marie.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2021

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Our Favorite Restaurants in Cap-haïtien

October 16, 2020 by admin

people seated at tables dining outside a restaurant — People dining outside Lakay Restaurant, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

Our Favorite Restaurants in Cap-haïtien

The best places to eat in Haiti’s second city, according to a local

Haitian cuisine is a delicious crossroads with recipes inherited from African ancestors, Native Caribbean Americans, and colonial Europeans. Modern Haiti is divided into ten departments, each with its own capital and its own specialty dish. Grand-Anse is known for its legendary tonmtonm and konparèt, Artibonite for its lalo – every department has its own flavor.

Cap-Haïtien, as the second-biggest city in Haiti and the capital of the North department, is home to a bounty of world-class restaurants and cosy cafés where you can experience local cuisine.

To ease you into that culinary trip, here is a (non-exhaustive) list of restaurants in Cap-Haïtien that will elevate your stay in the city!

yellow restaurant building in cap-haitien — Lakay, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Anton Lau

01. Lakay

The Haitian word lakay means “at home,” and that’s exactly where you will feel in this restaurant where you can enjoy a delicious sugar cane juice. They are the first to have added this exotic specialty to their menu, and now that it’s here, it’s impossible to leave Cap-Haïtien without tasting it!

We recommend: the stewed conch!

nighttime view of restaurant on a city street with palm trees — Cap Deli Restaurant, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Cap Deli

02. Cap Deli

Cap Deli is unbeatable when it comes to Capois cuisine. They are the ideal blend of modern and traditional dining, reinventing fare to please even the pickiest of eaters.

We recommend: the Creole fritay platter!

people seated in dining area inside a restaurant — Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Boukanye

03. Boukanye

Hello Creole cuisine, with plantains, pikliz, and well-seasoned sauces and meats! Would you like to taste a finger-licking good plate of rice? You won’t find it anywhere better than at Boukanye.

We recommend: Pintade Labapen!

beach at night with moonlight reflecting in the ocean — View of Cormier Plage, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Cormier Plage

04. Comier Plage

Good, authentic cooking and a gorgeous, unobstructed view of the turquoise blue water of the sea of Cap-Haïtien — what more could you ask for? Breathe in the fresh sea air over a good breakfast, or enjoy the sound of the waves over a plate of fresh-caught seafood made to Comier Plage’s secret recipe.

We recommend: the lobster or the conch!

plate with grilled conch, fried plantains, rice and salat — Kokiyaj restaurant, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Kokiyaj

05. Kokiyaj

Two words describe the cuisine of Kokiyaj: deliciously excellent. With rave reviews from hungry travellers, this a great place to experience quality Haitian cooking.

We recommend: the conch salad!

evening view of hotel restaurant — Haitian pikliz
Photo: Franck Fontain

06. Hôtel Roi Christophe

The tropical garden and beautiful architecture of Hôtel Roi Christophe is enough to make it worth a visit, but it’s not the only reason we recommend dining here. This old colonial residence has lost none of its charm and must be the envy of many a Caribbean city.

We recommend: the daily special (ask your waiter!)

facade of a closed restaurant with old horse carriage parked in front — Barik Restaurant, Cap Haïtien
Photo: Mozart Louis

07. Barik

Did you know that goat meat is popular in Haiti? If you would like to experience it, Barik is the place to go! They also serve up delicious, juicy fish -grilled or stewed- like you have never tasted before.

We recommend: anything with goat meat, obviously.

Must-try local speciality

Cap-Haïtien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2020

Top things to see around Cap-Haïtien

Have You Tried These 7 Haitian Summer Flavours?

February 19, 2020 by admin

vendor on city street with many straw baskets filled with haitian fruits — Fruit vendor in Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

Have You Tried These 7 Haitian Summer Flavours?

Flying to Haiti this summer? You’re in for a treat, and here are seven reasons why.

Here’s our guide to the quintessential Haitian flavors in season at the high point of the year.

If “summer in Haiti” for you is synonymous with refreshing rum punches and cocktails, you’re not wrong! Every summer, Haiti brightens up with the colors of seasonal fruit. Tables at markets, restaurants and homes pile up with fresh fruit fan-favorite vegetables essential for some of the most-loved classic Haitian dishes.

Whet your appetite and test your knowledge of Caribbean cuisine with this list of our seven favorite Haitian summer flavors!

bunch of green haitian kenèp fruits hanging on tree — Kenèp
Photo: Franck Fontain

01. Kenèp (Guinep)

This fruit is what summer in Haiti tastes like, in a bite. Everybody on the island eagerly awaits the first harvest of this sweet and juicy fruit. It grows in bunches on gorgeous tall trees, and to eat it, you have to crack the thin shell open with either your teeth or hands, then suck the flesh of the fruit, and spit out the seed, which is about the size of a marble. If you’re visiting anytime between June and August, you’ll be able to try them too, and fall in love.

mango fruits on display with pineapples — Mangoes
Photo: Franck Fontain

02. Mango

Mangoes are present year-round in Haiti but as early as the month of March, there are at least 12 different varieties that become available in abundance – mango lovers rejoice! The varieties differ in shape, size, and most importantly, flavor. If you’re new to the mango game, we recommend starting with Mango Baptiste, Mango Francique, and Mango Kòn. Don’t hesitate to ask your host or local fruit vendor for pointers! Haiti is divided into 10 departments, and each department produces its own kind because of differences in weather, which makes for a rich variety to choose from.

haitian fruit vendor cutting a watermelon — Watermelon
Photo: Franck Fontain

03. Watermelon

If there’s anything we know for a fact, it is that Haiti gets very hot during the summer. Luckily, summer is watermelon season in Haiti, and they are everywhere! There are hardly any fruits that can’t or won’t be transformed into a delicious, refreshing juice during Haiti’s hot summers, and watermelon juice is no exception. The very best feeling after a day out in the city or a hike is that first taste of freshly-squeezed watermelon juice.

a straw hat filled with green okra — Kalalou
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Kalalou (Okra)

Green and fuzzy on the outside when raw, kalalou is a typical Caribbean vegetable that turns slimy (but extremely delicious!) when stewed. If you are at all familiar with American Southern cooking, you’ll probably recognize this vegetable in its fried form. In Haiti, however, you’re more likely to find kalalou cooked down into a stew with some meat — usually beef — and served as an accompaniment to a serving of rice and beans. If you want to try something new and unusual during your adventure in Haiti, kalalou stew should be at the top of your must-try list!

haitian woman holding a bunch of light green haitian chayote fruits — Militon
Photo: Franck Fontain

05. Militon (Chayote)

Militon is one of the vegetables that you have to try at least once. It’s a starchy vegetable, so its texture is comparable to that of a potato, but when cooked, it’s much softer and more complex in flavor. In Haiti, it’s commonly eaten as part of a meat stew, or a gratinée, meaning that it’s baked with cheese and a béchamel sauce. With the right spices, the right amount of crunch and the perfect portion of cheese, gratinée is a great introduction to militon and will prepare you for different, more adventurous preparations.

green haitian soursop fruit hanging on tree branch — Kowosòl
Photo: Franck Fontain

06. Kowosòl (Soursop)

Kowosòl is another summer staple fruit. Its consistency is very close to that of an unripe pineapple. The fruit has small thorns on the outside but slices open to reveal rich, white, fragrant flesh. Although one can eat kowosòl (sometimes called corossol) as is, it’s usually blended into a juice with either milk or water and sweetened to taste. Best enjoyed on a breezy balcony on a beautiful hot day.

brown haitian tamarind fruits — Tamarind
Photo: Franck Fontain

07. Tamarind

If tangy flavors are your thing, this summer fruit is right up your alley. Tamarind is hugely popular in Haiti and while the tanginess can make this flavor divisive, it has some very loyal fans. Some people who love this fruit swear by its benefits: it’s rich in antioxidants, is said to fire up your metabolism, and is apparently great for your skin too! Who knew?

Used in curries and desserts across Asia, tamarind is most often consumed in Haiti as a juice. During tamarind season, you’ll be able to find tamarind juice at most restaurants and hotels. Enjoy!

Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published February 2020

Explore more food and drink in Haiti

Cap-Haïtien City Guide

December 13, 2019 by admin

church cathedral in cap-haitien, haiti — The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

City Guide: Cap-Haïtien

As Cap-Haïtien’s 350th anniversary draws near, take a swooping dive down into the heart of the city, and learn how it earned its well-deserved title as Haiti’s second city.

The Paris of the Antilles

Cap-Haïtien is Haiti’s second largest city, popular with travellers because of its proximity to world-class beaches and UNESCO heritage sites.

A key city during the Caribbean colonial period, Cap‑Français (as it was then named) earned the nicknamed the Paris of the Antilles for its sophisticated architecture and artistic culture. It was the capital city of the French colony of Saint Domingue from 1711 until the Haitian Revolution, when it became the capital of the Kingdom of Northern Haiti under King Henri Christophe. Christophe renamed the city from Cap‑Français to Cap-Henri. When Christophe died in 1820, the whole island of Hispaniola was briefly unified, and it was in the early phases of this (re)unification that Cap-Haïtien was given the name it has today. Mostly, though, you’ll hear this beautiful city called simply “Le Cap”.

What to see and do in Cap-Haïtien

The Cathedral
The early 20th century Notre Dame Cathedral (also known as the Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, Cap-Haïtien Cathedral and (French) Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l’Assomption.

Héros de Vertières
Héros de Vertières (Heroes Monument of Vertières) is an open-air sculpture park dedicated to the heroes of the 1803 Battle of Vertieres.

The Battle of Vertières was the last major battle of the Second War of Haitian Independence, and the final battle of the Haitian Revolution led by Jean Jacques Dessalines. It was fought on November 18, just south of what is now Cap-Haïtien.

An inspiring site that celebrates a remarkable moment in history, a visit to the Heroes de Vertieres is especially empowering for travelers from the Haitian diaspora. The monument is on the western outskirts of the city, within a five-minute drive of both Hôtel Impérial and one of our favorite places to eat in Cap-Haïtien, Lakay.

The Bottle Gate(s) (French: “Barrière Bouteille” / “Barrières Bouteilles”)
These iconic bottle-shaped structures mark the historic entrance to the city.

The Iron Market (French: Marche au Fer)
Named after the iconic Port-au-Prince Iron Market, this lively market is housed inside a Victorian-era cast iron pavilion. First built in 1890 under Haitian engineer Alexandre Bobo, Cap-Haïtien’s Iron Market has attracted tourists since the 1960s thanks to its impressive period architecture and the huge range of handicrafts sold here – especially colorful ritual objects associated with vodou practice. Today, the Iron Market is a chaotic sprawl of craftspeople and food vendors hawking their produce.

Dance to live music
Let your hair down like a local with these Cap-Haïtien musice scene stalwarts: Septentrional and Tropicana d’Haiti. Catch them at a venue called Versailles (named after the French royal palace).

Where to eat

Lakay: Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent (and huge!) traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Boukanye: our favorite place to drink coffee in Cap-Haïtien, this pirate-themed hangout is a great bar by night but a cozy café by day.

Cap Deli: serving up some of the freshest food in the city, Cap Deli is the place to go in Cap-Haïtien for American-style burgers and pizza.

Lolo: a new Italian-Haitian restaurant, Lolo serves exquisite fresh pasta and fine wine.

Must-try local specialities: Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Woman throwing a towel down to relax on the beach on Amiga Island, Ile-a-rat — Amiga Island, (Ile-a-Rat) close to Cap Haitien
Photo: Anton Lau

Best beaches

The best beaches nearby are Cormier, Labadee and Île-à-Rat Island (Amiga Island).

The beach at Cormier is one of the most under-appreciated on the island – and only a twenty minute drive from downtown Cap-Haïtien.

Labadee Beach is one of the crowning jewels of Haiti, with fine sands and crystal-clear blue water that attracts cruise ships from around the world.

Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island) is a tiny island off the beaches west of Cap-Haïtien. This little paradise is a microcosm of what makes Haiti one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean, with fine white sand beaches, shady palm trees, warm turquoise waters, incredible fresh seafood – and fewer crowds. The swimming is superb, and snorkelers can find half-buried colonial artillery and anchors.

For USD $40 a boat taxi from Labadee will take you to Île-à-Rat, and for an extra USD $15 they’ll cook you up a fresh lunch of lobster, octopus, crab or fish, all caught locally. Make sure you take some ice-cold bottles of rum and Prestige with you for the trip!

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti — Boat taxis going to Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island)
Photo: Verdy Verna

Where to sleep

All-inclusive resorts:
Cormier Beach Resort

Ocean view hotels:
Top hotels include Hôtel Impérial, Hotel Satama, Habitation Jouissant, Habitation des Lauriers and Mont Joli

Hidden Gem:
Kay Lolo Plage

Only accessible by boat, Kay Lolo Plage is a boutique B&B secluded in a private cove and surrounded by tropical forest. The separate bungalows and villa are in great condition and offer travellers a private beach with gorgeous views, birdsong and very exclusive vibes. There’s no wifi or running water here, but you’ll find kayaks, paddleboards and a breakfast cooked just for you.

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière and mountain range, Haiti — Citadelle Laferrière, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Awesome day-trips

South of Cap-Haïtien, Citadelle Laferriere is a hilltop fortress built by revolutionary leader Henri Christophe.

Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferriere. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

The city of Dondon is located about two hours south of Cap-Haïtien and has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno people lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

Getting there

American Airlines fly direct from Miami to Cap-Haitian, with fares starting at US $127 and a flight time of less than two hours.

From Port-au-Prince, Haiti’s capital city, Sunrise Airways will take you to CAP in 45 minutes for less than US $100, but it’s more fun, and you’ll see more of Haiti, if you jump on a cross-country bus or rent a car. On wheels, the journey from PAP to CAP will take four hours or more, depending on your route. Will you drive inland via Lake Peligre and Bassin Zim, or along the Caribbean coastline via Montrouis and Gonaïves?

Coming from the Dominican Republic? Caribe Tours, the most popular bus company in Dominican Republic, runs daily from Santiago to Cap-Haïtien. The journey takes roughly five hours: two and a half hours from Santiago to Dajabon, on the Dominican border, then another hour from Haitian border town Ouathamije to Cap-Haïtien. Return tickets cost US $25 per person, plus an extra US $25 border-crossing fee.

For more information, see our guides to getting to Haiti and transport within Haiti.

Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published December 2019

Top things to see in Haiti

Soup Joumou – the taste of freedom

December 2, 2018 by Editor

A bowl of soup joumou on a serving tray — Soup Joumou
Photo: Anton Lau

Soup Joumou – the taste of freedom

This once-forbidden stew now symbolises independence.

What is soup joumou?

Soup Joumou is a delicious and aromatic dish with a dense history, dating back to when it was a favourite of French slave-owners in eighteenth-century Haiti.

Joumou is the Kreyòl word derived from giraumon in French, which means “pumpkin,” in English. If you’re an avid fall cook, you might see joumou varietal pumpkins at some specialty supermarkets in the United States. They’re easy to spot at Haiti’s sprawling farmers’ markets.

To make soup joumou, two to three joumou are diced into sizeable chunks, and cooked in hot water until they are tender. While this happens, some meat is usually prepared to go with it: beef or pork, depending on what is available in the area. Once the joumou is tender, it is chucked into a blender with some of its cooking water and blended to a soft, silky consistency.

It all goes back into the pot over a low heat setting, and is joined by carrot chunks, potato cubes, cabbage quarters, pasta, and the prepared meat.

This simmers for a while, until the pasta is tender. Some people add dumplings at this point as well. After adding zesty, spicy seasoning, it’s ladled into a large serving bowl, which will sit at the center of a dining table with fresh bread from the local bakery, awaiting Sunday fast-breakers.

You’ll also find it as a centrepiece of New Year’s Day celebrations.

Why is soup joumou so special?

In 19th century Haiti, living conditions for slaves were unspeakably awful. As elsewhere in the world, they were treated brutally, kept enslaved by a combination of gruesome physical treatment and psychological abuse. Slavemasters denied these people as much as possible, even seemingly trivial things, especially if those things were associated with the lifestyle of Haiti’s white, slave-owning bourgeoise.

One tradition that was well established within the bourgeoisie was that of having soup joumou. Some households could afford to make it several times a week, others only on Sundays, but a bowl of soup joumou was never to be seen in the hands of a slave. This food was not intended for them, as it was too rich, too wholesome, too good.

In the first years of the 19th century, slaves and free black Haitians led a successful revolution, taking control of the country and instating their own language, their own institutions, and their own customs. As a potent symbol of the abundance that had been denied them for hundreds of years, the newly free population appropriated the food most symbolic of freedom: soup joumou.

Independence was officially declared on January 1st, 1804. To celebrate that first New Year’s Day, the people of Haiti prepared, cooked, and shared soup joumou. A delicacy previously forbidden, it was now made available to everyone. More than two hundred years later, the tradition is still going strong.

If you’re in Haiti on a Sunday, and especially if you’re here on New Year’s Day, make sure you try a bowl of soup joumou. You might find it at a hotel or served hot by a street vendor, but the best soup joumou is home-made – so make some friends.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

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a touch of
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start your day
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Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

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start your day
the Haitian way