restaurants

Cap-Haïtien City Guide

March 20, 2025 by admin

The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

Cap-Haïtien City Guide: 350 Years of Stories, One Unforgettable City

As Haiti’s second-largest city, Cap-Haïtien draws visitors with its rich history, world-class beaches, and UNESCO heritage sites. Join us as we take a swooping dive into the heart of the city and learn how it earned its well-deserved title as The Paris of the Antilles.

Cap-Haïtien is a city that refuses to be rushed. The pastel-colored facades of its colonial-era mansions hint at a storied past, while moto taxis zip through streets where revolution once brewed. Nicknamed The Paris of the Antilles, it was once the wealthiest city in the Caribbean—its grand architecture and rich cultural scene a testament to that golden age.

But Okap isn’t just about history. Mornings here start with strong Haitian coffee on the boulevard, afternoons drift by on palm-fringed beaches, and evenings hum with the rhythm of live konpa music. Whether you’re tracing the footsteps of Haiti’s revolutionaries or diving fork-first into a plate of grilled lambi, this city doesn’t just welcome visitors—it pulls them in.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings — Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

What to See and Do in Cap-Haïtien

Cap-Haïtien is a city best explored at street level. Colonial-era buildings with pastel facades line the streets, moto taxis weave between street vendors, and the scent of sizzling griot drifts from neighborhood eateries. Whether you’re drawn to history, bustling markets, or just soaking in the city’s energy, there’s plenty to take in.

Boulevard du Cap-Haïtien (Boulva Okap)
Start with a leisurely stroll down Boulevard du Cap, or Boulva Okap as locals call it. This waterfront stretch is the city’s beating heart, lined with cafés, restaurants, and bars where Cap-Haïtien comes alive—especially on Sundays, when locals gather to eat, drink, and unwind by the sea.

Want an insider’s perspective? We spoke to Za, a local guide, who shares her go-to spots for food, culture, and nightlife.

Notre Dame Cathedral
Anchoring Place d’Armes, Cap-Haïtien’s main square, this elegant cathedral is a city icon. First built in the 1600s and later reconstructed in the 20th century, its crisp white facade stands as a backdrop to daily life—street vendors, musicians, and people passing through.

Héros de Vertières
History isn’t just something you read about in Cap-Haïtien—it’s something you stand in. Héros de Vertières is an open-air monument commemorating the 1803 Battle of Vertières, the final fight for Haiti’s independence. A short drive from downtown, this stirring tribute to Jean-Jacques Dessalines and his troops is a must-visit—especially for those tracing their Haitian roots.

Marché Cluny (The Iron Market)
A riot of color, noise, and scent, Marché Cluny—often called Cap-Haïtien’s Iron Market—has been a bustling hub since 1890. Its cast-iron architecture mirrors the iconic Marché en Fer in Port-au-Prince, and inside, you’ll find everything from fresh produce to handcrafted vodou ritual objects. If you’re on the hunt for souvenirs with real character, this is the spot.

Boukanye Restaurant in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

Where to Eat & Drink in Cap-Haïtien

Cap-Haïtien’s food scene is a celebration of bold flavors and fresh ingredients, with seafood taking center stage. Fried fish, regional cashew-based specialties, and rich, slow-cooked stews fill menus across the city, offering plenty of local flavors to discover.

Here are a few standout spots:

Cap Deli
A go-to for generous portions and creative takes on local flavors, Cap Deli serves up some of the city’s most satisfying comfort food. Try the Meat Overloaded Fries, seafood pizza, or griot pizza, but if you’re looking for something truly special, go for the Bouillon Pêcheur—a rich seafood and vegetable soup packed with flavor.

Boukanye
With its breezy, relaxed vibe, Boukanye is a go-to for hearty Haitian classics. Their poisson gros sel—slow-cooked whole fish in a fragrant broth—is a must-try, especially when paired with diri djon djon, a local specialty made with black mushrooms.

Street food & kleren vendors
Some of the best flavors in Cap-Haïtien are found right on the street. Look out for vendors selling fritay (fried street snacks), crispy pâté (Haitian hand pies), and homemade kleren, Haiti’s artisanal sugarcane spirit. Street vendors often serve cups infused with ingredients like ginger, cinnamon, or medicinal roots that locals swear by. It’s strong—but if you want a real taste of Haiti, this is it.

Want more food recommendations? Check out our full list of Cap-Haïtien’s best restaurants and don’t miss our guide to Haitian street food for a deep dive into the country’s most irresistible bites.

Belly Beach near Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Best Beaches for Swimming, Snorkeling, and Sunbathing

History may have put Cap-Haïtien on the map, but its beaches keep people coming back. Whether you’re after a quiet stretch of sand, a tropical island escape, or just a good spot to sip an ice-cold Prestige, here’s where to go:

Cormier Plage
Just 20 minutes from downtown, this low-key beach is the kind of place where time slows down. Lounge under the palms, take a dip in the calm waters, and order a fresh seafood lunch without ever leaving your chair.

Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island)
If your idea of paradise is turquoise water, soft white sand, and zero crowds, hop on a boat to Île-à-Rat. This tiny offshore island is a local favorite, perfect for snorkeling, swimming, or just kicking back with a plate of grilled lobster. Make sure you take some bottles of Haitian rum with you for the trip!

Looking for more sun-drenched escapes? Check out our full guide to the best beaches near Cap-Haïtien.

Where to Stay

Cap-Haïtien has stays for every kind of traveler, whether you want ocean views, mountain breezes, or a private island escape. Here are three standout options:

Habitation des Lauriers
Perched above the city, Habitation des Lauriers offers unbeatable panoramic views and a peaceful retreat from the bustle below. The steep road up is no joke, but once you’re there, you’ll be surrounded by cool mountain air and lush greenery. Rooms range from budget-friendly basics to more comfortable options with AC and hot showers. The real highlight? Sunsets from the terrace.

Ekolojik Resort
For a nature-meets-comfort experience, Ekolojik Resort is tucked into the hills outside the city, offering a peaceful escape with views of Cap-Haïtien and the bay. The property is surrounded by fruit trees and lush greenery, and they focus on locally sourced, organic food. If you love waking up to fresh air and birdsong, this is your spot.

Chez Max
Only accessible by boat, Chez Max is a boutique B&B in a private cove, surrounded by tropical forest and turquoise water. The separate bungalows and villa offer a secluded, laid-back atmosphere with kayaks, paddleboards, and a private beach at your doorstep. Add in a delicious, homemade breakfast and it’s the ultimate off-the-grid hideaway.

Want more options? Check out our full guide on where to wake up in Cap-Haïtien.

Bartenden at Lakay in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

Nightlife & Live Music in Cap-Haïtien

As the day winds down, Cap-Haïtien doesn’t sleep—it just changes tempo. Locals spill onto terraces, kompa beats hum in the background, and the scent of grilled seafood lingers in the air. From breezy rooftops to beachside bars, here’s where to settle in for a drink and good company.

Lakay
A waterfront favorite for over 25 years, Lakay is as much about good vibes as great drinks. Expect a lively crowd, especially on Sunday nights, and don’t miss Salsa Thursdays, where you can pick up a few moves while sipping on a classic rum sour.

Les 3 Rois
Perched on the coastal road to Labadee, this hotel bar offers a peaceful atmosphere, a sea breeze, and dangerously good cocktails. The cassava accras (manioc fritters) are a mu5st, best paired with a fresh mojito while you watch the waves roll in.

Les Alizés
A stylish rooftop bar with modern architecture and panoramic views over the city. Come at sunset on weekends for an after-work crowd, DJ sets, and an unbeatable view of the Notre Dame Cathedral glowing in the evening light.

Citadelle Henri near Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Awesome Day-Trips

Most visitors to Cap-Haïtien make a beeline for Sans-Souci Palace and the Citadelle Henri, the city’s UNESCO-listed crown jewels. And while these historic landmarks are a must, venture a little further, and you’ll find places that feel worlds away—where citrus groves perfume the air, ancient carvings tell forgotten stories, and emerald pools shimmer in the hills. Here are three day trips that take you beyond the usual sights.

Wander Through the Orange Groves of Grand Marnier
Just outside Limonade, rolling fields of bitter orange trees stretch as far as the eye can see. The citrus grown here plays a key role in world-famous liqueurs like Grand Marnier and Cointreau. While official tours aren’t a thing, locals might just invite you to see the groves up close and share a taste of Haiti’s citrus-scented heritage.

Find Ancient Taíno Petroglyphs in Sainte-Suzanne
Hidden in the hills near Foulon, these centuries-old rock carvings whisper the stories of Haiti’s first inhabitants, the Taíno. The petroglyphs are etched into massive boulders, their meaning still a mystery, but their presence a powerful reminder of the island’s deep Indigenous roots. A local guide can help you find them—and share the legends tied to these ancient markings.

Cool Off in the Emerald Waters of Bassin Waka
Near Port-Margot, Bassin Waka is a freshwater oasis surrounded by lush greenery, where locals come to swim, unwind, and soak in the natural beauty. The water is impossibly clear, the fish dart between your feet, and the calm atmosphere makes it feel like a hidden retreat.

Looking for more ways to explore? Check out our guide to the coolest things to do in and around Cap-Haïtien.

Getting There & Getting Around

Getting to Cap-Haïtien is easier than you might think. Direct flights from Miami and Fort Lauderdale take just two hours, making it a quick escape to Haiti’s northern coast.

Once you’re here, getting around is part of the adventure. Moto taxis are the fastest way to navigate the city’s lively streets, while tap-taps—Haiti’s colorful shared taxis—offer a budget-friendly way to move between neighborhoods. Private taxis are also available, but don’t expect Uber or Lyft—ride-hailing apps don’t operate in Haiti.

Thinking about renting a car? It’s possible, but unless you’re highly experienced with Haitian roads, we strongly recommend hiring a local driver. For a different kind of transport, boat taxis can take you to nearby beaches and islands along the coast.

For more information, see our guides to getting to Haiti and public transportion within Haiti.

Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published December 2019.
Updated March 2025.

Top things to see in Haiti

Our Favorite Restaurants in Cap-Haïtien

March 14, 2025 by admin

Lakay restaurant in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

Our Favorite Restaurants in Cap-Haïtien

From seaside grills to cozy cafés, Cap-Haïtien is full of incredible places to eat. Whether you’re craving fresh seafood, a perfect cup of coffee, or a classic Haitian dish, here are our top picks!

At Visit Haiti, we believe that food is one of the best ways to experience a new culture. After all, what better way to understand a place than through its flavors?

Haitian cuisine is more than just food—it’s a reflection of history, geography, and tradition, full of bold flavors and creative twists. Take akasan, for example—a creamy corn porridge that traces back to the island’s first Taíno inhabitants and has since become a Haitian breakfast staple.

To help you navigate the flavors of northern Haiti, we’ve rounded up some of the best places to eat in Cap-Haïtien. Whether you’re in the mood for seafood, burgers, or a strong cup of coffee, here’s where to go.

Buche Perico restaurant in Santo Domingo — Coin Capois in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

1. Coin Capois

Did you know that the best coffee comes from high altitudes? The higher the elevation, the richer the flavor—and Coin Capois knows it well. That’s why they serve one of the most flavorful coffees in town, perfect for starting your day or enjoying a mid-afternoon break.

If you love cozy, minimalist spaces, this café is the ideal spot to meet up with friends, family, or even enjoy a quiet meal alone.

Though rooted in Haitian flavors, the menu also features international options, including the classic American-style hamburger—so if you’re not quite ready to dive into local cuisine, you’ll still feel right at home.

Our recommendations: Try the Capois Burger or Kap Burger, which perfectly balance Haitian flavors with local ingredients and an international twist.

Have a sweet tooth? You’re in luck. Coin Capois offers donuts, raisin bread, pain au chocolat, banana bread, and cupcakes—plenty of options to satisfy your cravings.

2. Cap Deli

If you’re looking for great food with a side of good vibes, Cap Deli is the place to be.

With DJs from all over Haiti setting the mood, this spot is just as much about the atmosphere as it is about the food. Whether you’re here for a casual meal or a night out with friends, Cap Deli delivers flavor and energy in equal measure.

The modern decor and friendly staff are a plus, but the real draw is the menu—a mix of comfort food and bold flavors that keep people coming back.

Our recommendations: Try the Meat Overloaded Fries, Seafood Pizza, Griot Pizza, or for something truly special, the Bouillon Pêcheur—a rich seafood and vegetable stew that’s packed with flavor.

3. Boukanye

If you’re looking for a spot to enjoy a meal with an ocean view, Boukanye is the place to be. True to its name, this nautical-themed restaurant draws inspiration from privateers and buccaneers, creating a setting that’s both unique and authentic.

Like many restaurants on this list, Boukanye offers a daily special, making it easy to sample local flavors. But what really sets the menu apart is its playful nods to Haitian culture and language. Don’t hesitate to ask your server or guide for explanations—just be ready for a few laughs, as some dish names have unexpected double meanings.

Take “Tibèf”, for example—it translates to “veal”, but in Haitian Creole slang, it can have a completely different connotation.

Our recommendations: Try the spaghetti for breakfast, the daily special for dinner. (Curious why Haitians love hearty breakfasts? We talk about it in our fun facts about Haiti article!).

Want the full Boukanye experience? Come on a Saturday night for “Saturday Vibes”, when the energy is at its peak.

Griot pizza at Potiwa
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

4. Potiwa

Do you love pizza? Trick question—everyone loves pizza! But if you’re one of those people who think Italy is the only place to find the best pizza, then you clearly haven’t been to Potiwa.

At Visit Haiti, we don’t just talk about food—we talk about art. And Potiwa’s chefs are true artists, crafting unexpected yet mouthwatering flavor combinations that push the boundaries of traditional pizza.

From the Herring Pizza—yes, a pizza topped with Haiti’s beloved herring—to the Haitian Vegetarian Pizza, there’s something for every kind of foodie.

Oh, and did we mention the terrace with a view of the boulevard and passing crowds? It’s the perfect place to enjoy your meal while soaking in the energy of Cap-Haïtien.

Our recommendation: The Griot Pizza with a light crust—a perfect balance of crunch and tenderness.

5. Gwòg

The name Gwòg literally means “alcohol” in Haitian Creole, making this spot a go-to for those who enjoy laid-back, stylish, and intimate settings that blend modernity with local traditions.

Here, you’ll find gourmet dishes as well as simple plates like pizza, making it a perfect meeting place for all tastes.

What sets Gwòg apart is the attention to detail—from the warm welcome at the door to the personalized cocktail recommendations at the bar. Whether you’re enjoying a slow evening with friends or stopping in for a quick bite, the staff makes sure every visit feels unhurried and inviting.

Our recommendation: The delicious Amaretto Sour, made with 100% Haitian alcohol.

Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2020.
Updated March 2025.

Top things to see around Cap-Haïtien

Money & Costs in Haiti

December 9, 2024 by Editor

Two hands exchanging Haitian gourdes paper money — Haitian gourdes
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Money & Costs in Haiti

Where can you change money in Haiti? How much is a bottle of beer, a burger or a bus trip? Find out here!

You’re standing at the carousel in the Toussaint Louverture International Airport, and your thrilling getaway in Haiti is finally about to kick off. There’s a lot to think about: did you confirm your ride to your hotel? Which restaurant did you decide on? Does that sad handle going around the carousel by itself belong on your luggage?

If you read our guide to getting to Haiti, you knew to bring USD$10 to pay the tourist fee due when you land. Nice work!

Before you head out to explore the festive heart of the Caribbean, make sure to get some cash in hand. Managing currency in Haiti can be tricky, but don’t worry—we’ve got you covered. From understanding the Haitian gourde to finding the best exchange rates, we’ll help you navigate money matters like a pro.

Haitian Currency: What You Need to Know

Haiti’s official currency is the Haitian gourde (HTG), often abbreviated as HTG or GDES. Both terms refer to the same currency, and since March 2018, the Central Bank of Haiti has required all businesses to display prices in HTG. This regulation ensures clarity for locals and travelers alike and reflects efforts to stabilize the local economy.

While HTG is the standard, U.S. dollars are still widely accepted, particularly in areas frequented by tourists, like Cap-Haïtien and Jacmel. Carrying smaller denominations, such as $1, $5, or $10 bills, is especially handy for tipping, transportation, or smaller transactions. Just remember that using HTG often gets you better value, as vendors may apply less favorable exchange rates for USD.

The currency itself is a colorful introduction to Haiti’s culture. Haitian bills range from 10 HTG to 1,000 HTG and feature notable figures and landmarks. Coins exist but are rarely used in daily transactions, making bills your go-to for most purchases. If you’re new to the gourde, familiarizing yourself with its denominations can make your transactions smoother and more enjoyable.

Two women exchanging Haitian gourdes paper money for garlic at a street market — Haitian gourdes
Photo: Franck Fontain

Bills, Bills, Bills

In Haiti, you’ll encounter a mix of coins and bills, each with its own design that reflects the nation’s rich history and culture. Here’s what you need to know about the currency currently in circulation:

Coins

1 HTG – The smaller of the two coins, though it’s not commonly used.
5 HTG – The larger and more frequently encountered coin.

The bills are:

10 HTG – The smallest bill, light grayish-purple in color, featuring Fort Cap Rouge (Fort Ogé) on its design.
25 HTG – A “vintage” design that hasn’t been updated, making it unique among Haitian bills.
50 HTG – Pink, featuring François Capois, a hero of Haitian independence.
100 HTG – Blue, showcasing Henri Christophe on one side and the iconic Citadelle Henri on the other.
250 HTG – Yellow and brown, highlighting Jean-Jacques Dessalines and Fort Décidé.
500 HTG – Haiti’s only green bill, featuring Alexandre Pétion and Fort Jacques.
1,000 HTG – The most colorful bill, with President Florvil Hyppolite on one side and Marché Vallière on the other.

The confusing “Haitian Dollar”
While shopping at markets or negotiating prices, you may hear references to “Haitian dollars” or simply “dollars.” Don’t be confused—this usually doesn’t mean U.S. dollars.

In Haiti, one Haitian dollar equals 5 Haitian gourdes. Here’s how it works:

20 Haitian dollars for a pile of oranges equals 100 HTG.
50 Haitian dollars for a motorcycle ride in Pétion-Ville equals 250 HTG.

For clarity, always confirm whether prices are in Haitian gourdes or Haitian dollars when negotiating or making purchases.

Woman holding bills of Haitian gourdes — Haitian gourdes
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Changing Money

The most reliable place to exchange U.S. dollars or other currencies into Haitian gourdes is at a bank, where you’ll find stable exchange rates and a secure environment. Banks generally offer the best rates, but they may have limited hours or require some patience due to wait times.

If you’re in a pinch, supermarkets are a convenient alternative. Many will gladly exchange U.S. dollars, but keep in mind that their rates are often slightly higher than those at banks. While this option is quick and easy, it’s best used for smaller amounts.

Using ATMs and Credit Cards in Haiti

Credit cards are your best friend for avoiding the hassles of currency exchange in Haiti. They’re widely accepted at hotels, major restaurants, and supermarkets, making them a convenient alternative to cash. By using your card, you’ll carry less cash and often get a better exchange rate. However, keep an eye out for places that offer dual-currency billing, as their exchange rates may be higher than the official market rate.

ATMs, on the other hand, can be less reliable. You won’t be able to withdraw foreign currencies, and some machines may run out of cash. For a safer experience, stick to ATMs in secure locations, such as your hotel or larger supermarkets, to avoid unnecessary risks.

So How Much Does Things Cost in Haiti?

Here’s the thing about shopping – for anything – in Haiti: there aren’t really any prices set in stone. The items that do have a set price are either extremely affordable, or ridiculously expensive.

Food and Drinks

In supermarkets, prices for basics like a 2-liter bottle of Coca-Cola usually vary by only 15–25 HTG between stores.
At farmers’ markets, you’ll find more consistent pricing. For example, a large mamit of dry white rice (measured using a repurposed tomato paste tin) is typically priced the same across vendors.

Dining Out
If you’re eating at restaurants:

A soda costs about 70 HTG.
A coffee will set you back 660 HTG.
1,500 HTG for a meal at a mid-range restaurant.

Transportation
Transportation costs in Haiti depend heavily on your destination and fluctuating gas prices. A sudden increase in fuel costs can significantly impact fares. To avoid surprises and ensure you have enough small bills for change, it’s always a good idea to ask a local about current rates.

For a deeper dive into navigating Haiti’s public transportation system, including tap-taps, moto-taxis, and buses, check out our guide: Getting Around Haiti.

Shopping for Arts and Crafts
Haggling is part of the experience when buying arts and crafts from street vendors. In tourist areas like Pétion-Ville’s Place Saint-Pierre or Cap-Haïtien, you’ll find colorful walls of paintings and handmade items. Artists are generally fair and willing to negotiate, but it’s always helpful to have a local guide who knows the typical prices.

Pro Tip for Navigating Costs

Local Insight is Key: Whether shopping, haggling, or taking public transport, a local companion can provide invaluable advice on fair pricing.
Be Prepared: Carry small bills and coins to make transactions smoother and avoid overpaying.

With these tips, you’ll be ready to explore Haiti, enjoy its beauty, and make the most of your budget—ensuring you get the best value for your gourde!

Colorfully-painted paper mache animals lined up on a shelf — Artisan gift shop in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018.
Updated December 2024.

Top things to see in Haiti

Visit the Oloffson Hotel

October 22, 2021 by Anton Lau

facade of gothic style gingerbread hotel with palm trees — Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Visit the Oloffson Hotel

The iconic Hotel Oloffson, a gothic “Gingerbread” mansion surrounded by a lush tropical garden, has been described as the most iconic hotel of not just Haiti but the whole Caribbean. The rickety 19th-century mansion is amazingly intact given its location in the centre of a city that has seen so much destruction.

While I wait for the black iron gates to open, passersby weave around my car. I honk again, and the gates creak open just enough to let me through. A doorman in a black cap and a faded T-shirt nods at me, then promptly creaks the gate shut again.

A winding cobblestone path flanked by green foliage disappears into deep gardens. There’s no hotel in sight. Instead, wrought iron sculptures with diabolic faces peer out from between the leaves. More and more strange sculptures appear, some created from car parts in a style I recognize as belonging to the Atis Resistance movement.

As the driveway winds further uphill, the white lattice of the mansion roof appears over the palm trees and mango leaves. On the left side of the driveway, a glittering white-and-mirror mosaic wall emerges into view. In the center, the mural shows a red and blue boat. Trained eyes know that more than a simple sailboat, this is actually a dedication to the vodou spirit of the sea, Agwe. Near the anchor that dips into the white waves, sacred inscriptions hint at the magic and folklore that infuses Hotel Oloffson.

Parking on a cobblestone flatway, I turn off the motor, and approach the famous front entrance of the Hotel Oloffson. Craning to look up, I marvel at the nest-like widow’s peak and the many turreted balconies on the upper floors. This particular example of gingerbread architecture was described as “an illustration from a book of fairy tales” by American author Graham Greene who once lived and wrote here. A fan of Wes Anderson Movies, I imagine the Hotel Oloffson as a Caribbean cousin to The Grand Budapest Hotel.

An air of sleepiness and reverie envelops the front steps which veer off to the left and right. Everything is painted white – the bricks, the timber upper stories, the intricately carved wood panels that section off the balconies. In an alcove set into the white stone base of a staircase, several sculptures stand watch, including a three-foot-high man who represents the Gede family of vodou lwa. The Gede are the gods of the crossroads between life and death celebrated annually during the Haitian Day of the Dead.

hotel restauarant veranda with tile floor green doors — Restaurant veranda at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Hotel Oloffson Restaurant

At the top of the stairs, an ancient-looking butler stands sentinel at the restaurant entrance. Behind him, an expansive verandah leads through a sequence of lobby rooms to a concert stage. I nod to the butler and choose a table in the far corner, overlooking the city of Port-au-Prince and the strip of azure sea beyond. A century of politicians, musicians, local artists and vodou priests have sat in this same chair.

The butler takes my order – the Oloffson’s famous rum punch cocktail and a side of accra – and shuffles over nineteenth-century mosaic tiles to disappear behind saloon doors painted with a vivid Haitian countryside scene. Haitian art is smattered across the grounds. The corner table of the Oloffson verandah is an excellent vantage point to take in the art collection that begins in the sculpture garden below and creeps up to the mansion, covering nearly every wall of the hotel lobby, restaurant, and its myriad guest rooms.

Above the table, a pearly pink-and-white sequined flag catches my eye. It carries one of the lwa cosmograms- sacred designs that act like a beacon, calling down the corresponding spirit. The curving heart shape indicates this is a flag created for Erzulie Freda – spirit of love and protector of children.

hotel bar interior with liquor bottles and old framed mirror — Bar at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

What to order

For starters, try the Oloffson’s famous rum punch cocktail, or a rum sour if you’re after something simpler. The best accompaniment is accra: the deep-fried, very spicy batter made from malanga root is prepared with special care in the hotel kitchen below, and arrives with a heaping pile of spiced pikliz – best eaten with your fingers.

old gothic style gingerbread hotel with lush green trees — Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

History

The mansion was built as the primary residence for the Sam family, an influential clan that boasts two former presidents of Haiti among its ranks. In 1915, following the infamous death of its owner at the hands of political protestors, the Sam mansion was seized by US military forces. The mansion served as a US military hospital until the US occupation ended in 1934.

Few visitors to Haiti know how the famed Hotel Oloffson got its current name, but I’ll let you in on the secret. In 1935, when the US occupation ended, the mansion was leased to a Swedish sea captain named Werner Gustav Oloffson, who wanted to retire from life on the open water in Haiti’s summery climate. Along with his wife Margot and two children, Captain Oloffson set about converting the lush expansive gardens, gingerbread mansion and hospital wing into Haiti’s finest hotel.

In the 1950s, 60s and 70s, the hotel went Hollywood. An outpost for the rich and fabulous, the Oloffson hosted the American political and cultural elite – Jackie Onassis Kennedy would often be found fanning herself on the nest-like balcony of the grand honeymoon suite. The emerald-green swimming pool in the garden hosted an endless stream of parties for musicians, models and writers, as one expat owner after the other took their turn at the helm.

Many of the rooms now boast hand-painted placards with the name of a famous past guest. Visitors can sleep in the Mick Jagger room, Jackie O room, Graham Greene room and more. Like their erstwhile guests, the hotel corridors are anything but straight and narrow: some suites are situated above the swimming pool, connected by hidden corridors. Others you reach by a winding narrow staircase off the main lobby. The staircase to the second floor is an ancient wooden construction that sinks underfoot in places, and leads further up into lofty galleries, then through a wooden passageway. Still more wooden passages take visitors into the wing that once held the American military hospital. The most sought-after rooms are in the main mansion, just above the lobby.

"Sunsan Sarandon" handpainted placard with flowers — Susan Sarandon placard, Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Live Music

Every Saturday night at the Oloffson, the band RAM – an absolute national treasure – delivers an unforgettable performance of vodou-infused rock. If you’re not a guest at the hotel or paying for a sit-down dinner, you’ll need to pay an entry fee of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars). The show starts around 10:30. Expect sing-a-longs with an enthusiastic crowd and dancing all night long. (Note that until recently, RAM played every Thursday, but changed to Saturdays in 2020.)

Weekly performances by RAM have become a ceremonial-grade ritual loved by all levels of society. Remarkably, in a country where consistency is hard to find, the band has consistently gigged at the Oloffson since 1990, when the band’s frontman took over running the hotel.

A “vodou rock and roots” band, RAM incorporates traditional vodou lyrics and instruments, such as rara horns and Petwo drums, into rock, and their lyrics are sung in a macaronic medley of Haitian creole, French and English.

Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The 2010 earthquake

After the 2010 earthquake, the Oloffson was one of the few hotels left standing in Port-au-Prince. Some joked that the ancient structure was held together by termites in the wood and magic in the rafters, but research has since shown that Haiti’s traditional gingerbread houses are surprisingly earthquake resistant.

The Oloffson became a major hub for the influx of humanitarian workers and global media outlets that descended on the capital. The expansive porches and grounds were an informal HQ for foreigners and emissaries of the estimated hundred thousand charities who became active in the “NGO Republic” of Port-au-Prince. Anyone seeking a meeting or rendezvous point defaulted to the Oloffson.

Era after era, the space has served its guests loyally. The Oloffson has been a family home, hotel, hospital, jam-hall, meeting place, humanitarian headquarters, art gallery, and celebrity escape.

The Hotel Oloffson stands guard over downtown Port-au-Prince, undeterred by rebellion, earthquake, or the famous faces that wander its corridors. The beauty of the fairytale is still unraveling, and seated comfortably in my chair with this view, I feel grateful for yet another chance to weave my own story into the stories of those who have come before. Sipping my rum punch, I wonder what will become of this space in another fifty years. Who will drive up the garden passage, and what incarnation of the Oloffson will they find?

interior of hotel guest room with wodden desk and sunlight — Balcony room at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Stay at the Oloffson

Almost a century after Captain Oloffson took over the sprawling gingerbread mansion, the Oloffson is still running as a boutique hotel.

Guests can stay in one of 22 rooms, dine at the in-house restaurant and lounge at the outdoor pool. All suites include a free continental breakfast, free WiFi, and free parking. One of the Oloffson’s attractions is its seclusion, and to save you having to travel into the city for essentials, there’s even a convenience store on site.

RAM plays on Saturday nights. The show is free for hotel guests and dinner customers.

The Oloffson is hidden from view on 60 Ave Christophe, Port-au-Prince, in the neighbourhood of Saint Gérard, just near trendy Pacot.

Within a short walk you’ll find the Museum of Haitian Art, Champs de Mars Square and the National Pantheon Museum. Haiti’s main airport is a 10 minute drive away.

Book your stay now!

facade of gothic style gingerbread hotel with palm trees and dog — Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published October 2020.

Find Hotel Oloffson

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Explore Haiti’s History & Heritage

15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

May 10, 2021 by admin

a plate of haitian food — Fritay at 5 Coins, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

Bold flavours, bright colours and a dash of West Indies spice – get ready for Haiti’s creole cuisine

Haiti is a land of bold flavours, bright colours, intoxicating music, mischievous spirits and a heady mix of cultures. Haitian creole cuisine is built on fresh seafood, island-grown greens and exotic fruits, all full of West Indies spices and an often surprising mix of elements both familiar and strange.

The fast-service restaurant concept hasn’t yet washed ashore in Haiti, so be ready to lean into the luxury that is island time: even in the capital city, everything has an unhurried, unpretentious atmosphere. Sipping rum sours in a palm-fringed patio or lounging around in an airy, high-ceilinged colonial dining room while you wait is a great way to sink into the Caribbean vibes.

Here is our ultimate guide on where to find the best Haitian eats for every taste:

1. Fritay at 5 Coins

The cornerstone of Haitian cuisine, fritay is the best place to start your Haitian food journey. 5 Coins is one of the most well-known names in the business, with five kitchens throughout metropolitan Port-au-Prince. They offer all the classic fritay dishes: bannann peze (fried plantains), griyo (fried pork), akra (malanga fritters), lam fri (fried breadfruit) and fried chicken – all supplemented with Caribbean staples – rice and peas – or specialty sides.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat — Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

2. Fish at Le Coin des Artistes – Vivano

Seafood straight from the surf is unbeatable. For the best fresh fish in Port-au-Prince, drop into Le Coin des Artistes — Vivano. Because their fish is always sustainably caught on their own restaurant-owned properties, your meal is supporting best-practice fishing in Haiti. You can ask for your fish to be either pwason griye (grilled) or an sòs (stewed).

plate with conch gratine and slices of bread — Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

3. Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant

Head downtown to the Pacot district for the treasure that is Gingerbread Restaurant. Their gratine lanbi (conch gratinée) alone is worth the trip. Locally known as lambi, conch is a mollusc native to the waters of the Bahamas but popular throughout the Caribbean islands. A step above the standard lanbi an sòs (stewed conch), this is a Haitian foodie experience to savour. The rich sauce of the gratinée envelops tender bits of conch, rendering them even more flavorful than they are naturally. A real culinary delight!

plate with pizza topped with shrimp, onions and cheese — Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

4. Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou

Interested in what Haitian cuisine can do when it fuzes with food from other countries? Look no further than Yanvalou’s shrimp pizza! A specialty of the house, it’s the perfect cross between the mellow, indulgent feeling you get from enjoying pizza, heightened by the fresh taste of tender bits of shrimp scattered on top. Down a slice along with a rum sour in the leafy patio.

colofull restaurant area with tables and chairs — La Coquille restaurant in Pétion-Ville
Photo: La Coquille

5. Buffet at La Coquille

Come hungry to La Coquille! This popular Pétion-Ville restaurant houses one of the most well-known Haitian cuisine buffets in the capital. Work your way through fried pork, fried chicken, stewed conch, and goat — alongside a selection of rice-centric sides, depending on what is available that day. White rice and black bean sauce, rice and peas, djondjon rice…dessert is included as well!

6. Griyo (fried pork) at Au Bon Griot

A quick drive outside of Pétion-Ville you’ll find Au Bon Griot, one of the best places in the area of Boutilier for griyo (fried pork). While it’s one of those hole-in-the-wall places, it definitely is somewhere worth stopping. Made fresh to order, the griyo comes with a generous helping of fried plantains and pikliz. What better way to enjoy griyo than overlooking the city of Port-au-Prince?

7. Fettucine Djondjon at Karibe Hotel

If you’ve tried djondjon rice, you know this tiny mushroom packs a punch. Native to Haiti, djondjon mushrooms are known for their “exquisite color, taste and aroma.” For a dish that makes the most of this unique ingredient, stop by the restaurant at Karibe Hotel in Juvénat for their specialty – djondjon fettucine! The rich, velvety pasta sauce is made inky black by the exotic djondjon.

8. Soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Kinam Hotel

You’ve read all about it – now treat yourself to a warm and comforting bowl of soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Pétion-Ville’s Kinam Hotel. Filled with pasta and rustic chunks of carrots, potatoes, and meat, this soup is an already hearty meal, but some people enjoy it with freshly toasted bread, which you can request. Soup Joumou on Sundays is a cultural institution in Haiti, and there’s no better way to kick off your week!

Outside Port-au-Prince?

That’s Port-au-Prince covered, but what about the rest of the country?

hands holding a sandwich with meat — Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff

Out touring the hills of Thomassin or Fermathe? You’re not far away from the area of Kenscoff, where the specialty of bib is extremely popular. What is a bib? Simply put, it’s a sandwich that features fried pork meat and pikliz (a spicy relish and a crucial in Haitian creole cuisine) in soft, pillowy bread. No formal restaurant here, just a hole-in-the-wall place just past the police department of Kenscoff, but a must-try foodie experience nonetheless!

waiter holder a plate of grilled goat meat with carrots and potatoes — Kabrit griye at Ranch Le Montcel, Kenscoff
Photo: Ranch Le Montcel

10. Kabrit griye (grilled goat) at Le Montcel, Kenscoff

Sustainably-raised meat is more common than you might expect in this island nation. One of the best places to taste the creole dish kabrit griye (grilled goat) is Le Montcel. A sprawling property set into the hills of Kenscoff, Le Montcel is able to grow a lot of its own produce and raise its own animals. This makes for one of the most succulent griyo, which pulls apart wonderfully!

11. Mayi moulen ak fèy (cornmeal and spinach) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

One of the pleasures of waking up in Cap-Haïtien is getting breakfast on the boulevard. We recommend stopping by Boukanye, where you can enjoy a hearty, flavorful breakfast of mayi moulen ak fèy!

While mayi moulen (polenta) is usually eaten as the major part of a midday or evening meal, it is prepared here for breakfast as mayi moulen ak fèy, served with spinach and kipper. Even better with freshly sliced avocado! In season (roughly august-november) avocados are so abundant on Haiti that you can afford to eat them for breakfast every day – and pay off your mortgage too.

12. Poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

Visit pirate-themed bar and grill Boukanye in Cap-Haïtien to try the North Haitian specialty of poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews). Cashews grow around Cap-Haïtien and are used liberally in local cuisine. In this signature northern dish, succulent strips of chicken stirred through a flavorful, savory sauce, and topped with halved cashews. Usually enjoyed with a generous side of white rice, or rice and peas.

13. Lanbi an sòs (stewed conch) at Lakay, Cap-Haïtien

Lakay in Cap-Haïtien is one of the best places to get lunch. If you happen to be in the area, we recommend getting the lanbi an sòs (stewed conch)! The stewed-to-perfection conch melts in your mouth. The house standard is served with rice but you can request fried plantains or fried potatoes to make for an even more robust meal – great if you’ve been out hiking or swimming all morning.

vendor cutting pieces of gingerbread — Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) in Les Cayes
Photo: Franck Fontain

14. Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) from Les Cayes

Wander up to the crossroads of Quatre-Chemins in Les Cayes to find the delicacy that is bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread). Thick, sweet, and filling, it is the kind of dessert you enjoy with a cup of coffee or tea. It’s like giving your tastebuds a big warm hug.

milk fudge wrapped in plastic — Dous makòs (milk fudge) in Petit-Goâve
Photo: Franck Fontain

15. Dous makòs (milk fudge) from Petit-Goâve

For those who have a curious sweet tooth, the town of Petit-Goâve is the place to go. Here you’ll find dous makòs (milk fudge); a wonderfully decadent tri-color sweet treat. Sugar, milk, condensed milk, and a slew of warming spices like vanilla, nutmeg, and cinnamon come together over high heat, are poured into molds to cool, then sliced into the delicious, rich slabs of dous makòs fudge.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2021

Top things to see in Haiti

8 of the most Instagrammable cafes in Port-au-Prince

September 19, 2019 by admin

haitian restaurant with many guests dining — Magdoos, Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

The most Instagrammable cafes in Port-au-Prince

Looking to start your morning on a caffeinated note? Port-au-Prince is full of options! We’ve rounded up the eight most quaint, unique and Insta-worthy cafés in the city for you.

01. Angel Touch Café

Located above Pizza Garden in Pétion-Ville, Angel Touch Café is an oasis of calm in the center of downtown Pétion-Ville. Everything from the colorful waiting area to the large, airy patio restaurant resonates with Caribbean style. The restaurant itself, painted in pastels with plenty of hanging plants, is a charming place to enjoy your coffee while soaking up the atmosphere of Pétion-Ville.

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02. Rébo Expresso

For a quick, hearty bite to eat, stop by Rébo Expresso, also in Pétion-Ville. Those signature Caribbean bright, contrasting colors are here too, and the smell of freshly ground coffee permeates the air. With bright orange walls and blue cups and saucers, Rébo Expresso is the place to go for a morning coffee where the decor wakes you up as much as the caffeine.

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A post shared by REBO Expresso (@reboexpresso)

03. Banbile Café

A rustic wooden interior and playful exterior make up Banbile Café, in Pétion-Ville. The red color scheme ties the entire place together, from seat cushions to accents by the counter. Coffee options abound on their menu – in addition to all the typical European coffee styles, you’ll find iced lattes, caramel frappes and frozen funky monkey. On Sundays, Banbile is a great place to enjoy the quintessential Haitian dish soup joumou.

04. Mountain Maid (Kay Walas)

If you make it up to the hills of Fermathe, we strongly recommend you visit Mountain Maid, better known as Kay Walas to the locals. The Mountain Maid café offers a wide balcony open to the lush surrounds of the mountains east of Port-au-Prince, and an extensive gift shop with high quality pieces made by local craftsmen and craftswomen. Early in the morning, the fog over the farmland makes the destination especially photogenic.

05. Marie Béliard

Known for its delicious pastries and baked goods, Marie Béliard is one of the most popular bakeries in Port-au-Prince. Between cheeky, rustic wooden signs and pastel colors, this patisserie is a joyful example of French influence in the city – it’s a real piece of Paris in the middle of the Caribbean. We recommend the delicious almond croissant and cinnamon bun.

If you’re in town to celebrate a special occasion, this is the place to order a specialty cake.

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A post shared by Patisserie Marie Beliard 🇭🇹 (@patisseriemariebeliard)

06. Café Cho, Marriott Hotel

If you’re in the area of Turgeau, you can stop by the Marriott Hotel to grab a bite at Café Cho. With high white walls and raw woodgrain accents, Cho offers a sleek, minimalist setting that’s almost Nordic in nature, in strong contrast with the palm trees and sunny boulevards just outside the Marriott’s gates.

Step into the air conditioning to try American-style sandwiches and pastries with local Haitian coffee. We recommend a strong Haitian coffee with a chocolate brownie.

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A post shared by Marriott Port-au-Prince Hotel (@marriotthaiti)

07. Yanvalou

Well-known for its Thursday night events, Yanvalou doubles as a quaint and colorful café in the daytime. Featuring a large-scale graffiti of Nina Simone — which you’ll definitely want some snaps of — Yanvalou is the perfect place to enjoy a midday bite if you’re in the area of Pacot.

08. Wide Awake Café, Kinam Hotel

For health-conscious travellers, Wide Awake Café is the place to go! Located in Kinam Hotel at Pétion-Ville, Wide Awake is designed to embody a tropical modern interiors. The menu boasts a large selection of breakfast and lunch options, most of which are vegan-friendly.

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Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published September 2019

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Cap-Haïtien City Guide: 350 Years of Stories, One Unforgettable City

As Haiti’s second-largest city, Cap-Haïtien draws visitors with its rich history, world-class beaches, and UNESCO heritage sites. Join us as we take a swooping dive into the heart of the city and learn how it earned its well-deserved title as The Paris of the Antilles.

What to See and Do in Cap-Haïtien

Bring Cap-Haïtien Home with You

Where to Eat & Drink in Cap-Haïtien

Best Beaches for Swimming, Snorkeling, and Sunbathing

Bring Cap-Haïtien Home with You

Where to Stay

Nightlife & Live Music in Cap-Haïtien

Awesome Day-Trips

Bring Cap-Haïtien Home with You

Getting There & Getting Around

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Our Favorite Restaurants in Cap-Haïtien

From seaside grills to cozy cafés, Cap-Haïtien is full of incredible places to eat. Whether you’re craving fresh seafood, a perfect cup of coffee, or a classic Haitian dish, here are our top picks!

From Our Land to Your Home

1. Coin Capois

2. Cap Deli

3. Boukanye

start your day the Haitian way

4. Potiwa

5. Gwòg

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Top things to see around Cap-Haïtien

Paradise for your inbox

Money & Costs in Haiti

Where can you change money in Haiti? How much is a bottle of beer, a burger or a bus trip? Find out here!

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Haitian Currency: What You Need to Know

Bills, Bills, Bills

Changing Money

Using ATMs and Credit Cards in Haiti

So How Much Does Things Cost in Haiti?

a touch of haitian wisdom

Pro Tip for Navigating Costs

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Visit the Oloffson Hotel

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

The Hotel Oloffson Restaurant

What to order

History

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Live Music

The 2010 earthquake

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Stay at the Oloffson

Find Hotel Oloffson

EXTERNAL LINKS

Citadelle Henri

Explore Haiti’s History & Heritage

Paradise for your inbox

15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

Bold flavours, bright colours and a dash of West Indies spice – get ready for Haiti’s creole cuisine

Bring Haitian Flavor to Your Walls!

1. Fritay at 5 Coins

2. Fish at Le Coin des Artistes – Vivano

3. Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant

4. Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou

5. Buffet at La Coquille

Bring Haitian Flavor to Your Walls!

6. Griyo (fried pork) at Au Bon Griot

7. Fettucine Djondjon at Karibe Hotel

8. Soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Kinam Hotel

Outside Port-au-Prince?

9. Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff

10. Kabrit griye (grilled goat) at Le Montcel, Kenscoff

Bring Haitian Flavor to Your Walls!

11. Mayi moulen ak fèy (cornmeal and spinach) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

12. Poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

13. Lanbi an sòs (stewed conch) at Lakay, Cap-Haïtien

14. Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) from Les Cayes

15. Dous makòs (milk fudge) from Petit-Goâve

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Top things to see in Haiti

Select Language

start your day
the Haitian way

a touch of
haitian wisdom

Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

start your day
the Haitian way

A Visual Guide to
Vodou Symbols