TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

Hotels

Where to Sleep, Swim, and Slow Down in Jacmel

Hotel Manoir Adriana in Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Where to Sleep, Swim, and Slow Down in Jacmel

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

With its faded gingerbread mansions, palm-lined seafront, and a creative spirit stitched into nearly every balcony and breeze, Jacmel is a city that hums quietly with charm. Haiti’s cultural capital is no stranger to beauty — or contradiction. One minute you’re sipping Haitian rum under the stars in a crumbling 19th-century courtyard, the next you’re paddling across a private cove surrounded by coconut trees.

While Jacmel may not have five-star hotels or infinity-edge anything, it offers something rarer: soul. The kind of place where the paint peels just right, where the sea is never far, and where the best stays feel like secrets — half-whispered from one traveler to another.

From historic hideaways in the heart of the old town to barefoot surf lodges tucked deep into the hills, these are the places we think are worth waking up in.

Hotel Florita, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

1. Hotel Florita

For those with a taste for poetic decay and a soft spot for stories embedded in floorboards, Hotel Florita is where you’ll want to unpack your bags — and your notebook. Built in 1888 as a coffee magnate’s mansion, this baby-blue and white landmark — complete with iron columns and creaky wooden stairs — is the only 19th-century building in Jacmel’s historic district still doing what it was meant to do: host lively conversation, long nights, and travelers with time to waste.

There’s no pool, no spa, and no polished concierge — but there is a balcony overlooking Rue du Commerce, a rum sour waiting at the bar (the first one’s on the house), and original artwork by legendary Haitian painters like Philomé Obin and Gérard Fortuné. The vibe channels that same faded grandeur you’ll find at Hotel Oloffson in Port-au-Prince — part literary relic, part film set.

Thursday nights are when the courtyard comes alive, pulsing with music, dancing, and a crowd of artists, expats, and old poets who seem to drift in and never fully leave. In the morning, slip next door to Café Koze for an iced coffee or a slice of carrot cake before tracing your steps through Jacmel’s gallery-lined streets. But don’t be surprised if Florita keeps calling you back — it’s the kind of place that makes you believe in ghosts, and maybe even in staying still.

Book your stay at Hotel Florita!

L’Auberge du Vieux Port in Jacmel
Photo: L’Auberge du Vieux Port

2. L’Auberge du Vieux Port

Just 15 metres down from Hotel Florita — but a world apart in feel — L’Auberge du Vieux Port wears a colonial façade with freshly painted confidence. Think green shutters, brickwork, and an old-world exterior that nods politely to Jacmel’s past. Step inside, though, and it’s clear: this isn’t a time capsule. The interiors are concrete, clean, and quietly contemporary — more comfortable guesthouse than crumbling mansion.

Owned by a warm Haitian husband-and-wife team who are often on-site, the hotel hosts weekly Friday night jazz sessions that spill out from the restaurant onto the street. Expect small tables, live music drifting through open doors, and clinking glasses of house-made Bomuzack rum under the stars.

The food here is quietly excellent — elevated Haitian comfort dishes with generous portions — and while the vibe is less “wandering poet” than its neighbour up the street, it’s no less local. Think families, couples, and groups of friends gathered for a mellow night out. The atmosphere? Pure Jacmel: musical, unhurried, and impossible to fake.

Check availability at L’Auberge du Vieux Port!

Hotel Manoir Adriana in Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

3. Manoir Adriana

Tucked just a few minutes from Rue du Commerce, Manoir Adriana is a hotel of split personalities — and that’s its charm. On one side: a towering, beautifully restored Haitian gingerbread mansion, all fretwork, balconies, and old-world romance. On the other: a concrete modern addition that houses thirty guest rooms, each with a balcony overlooking a lush courtyard and the largest pool in Jacmel’s city center. The effect is surreal — like sleeping in a novel. Which, in fact, you are.

The name “Adriana” nods to Hadriana in All My Dreams, René Depestre’s celebrated 1988 novel set in Jacmel, about a young French woman transformed into a zombie on her wedding day. It’s fitting — this place lives somewhere between reality and myth.

Inside the gingerbread house you’ll find the bar and reception, plus breezy wraparound verandas perfect for lingering over a cool drink. Rooms in the annex are modern, spacious, and come with air-conditioning — though, at the time of writing, Jacmel’s electricity woes make it more wish than guarantee. Still, for travelers wanting a pool, a bit of space, and a hotel that straddles both past and present, Manoir Adriana hits a rare sweet spot: somewhere between storybook and staycation.

See rooms and rates at Manoir Adriana Hotel!

Cap Lamandou Hotel in Jacmel
Photo: Cap Lamandou

4. Cap Lamandou

Perched above Jacmel Bay on a quiet stretch of coastline, Cap Lamandou is a short drive — and a bumpy dirt road — from the city center, but rewards the detour with big skies, ocean air, and the kind of views that never get old. All 32 rooms face the water and come with balconies — opt for the top floor if you want that cinematic, sun-on-the-horizon moment. Built in 2003 and largely untouched since, the hotel has a certain throwback charm: clean, functional, and just a little bit frozen in time.

There’s a large pool that’s almost always blissfully uncrowded, a modest gym (rarity in these parts), and a small beach just down a rocky path — not private, but usually empty enough to feel like it is. The restaurant is a slow burn, so order early — but it’s worth the wait. Expect plates piled high with grilled lobster, poisson gros sel, and octopus, all served with a sharp, fiery side of pikliz that’ll wake up even the sleepiest taste buds.

You’ll likely be sharing the scene with Haitian families on weekend getaways and NGO workers recharging over Prestige beers. Not much is walkable, but if you ask around, a boat can ferry you across the bay to Baguette — a wild, lesser-known beach that feels like a secret whispered by the sea.

Plan your stay at Cap Lamandou!

Pool area at Hotel Cyvadier Plage
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

5. Hotel Cyvadier Plage

Twenty minutes outside Jacmel, tucked into a secluded, U-shaped cove, Hotel Cyvadier Plage has the kind of off-the-map feel that makes you forget how close you are to town. It’s not a luxury resort — and doesn’t pretend to be — but this family-run hideaway gets the important things right: swimmable waters, towering palms, and sunrise views that make early wake-ups feel like a spiritual practice.

The rooms are rustic and no-frills, but most guests spend their time outdoors anyway — either lounging by the pool, paddling across the calm bay on stand-up boards, or climbing down the stone staircase to the small, quiet beach below. The open-air restaurant is the perfect perch for a long lunch. Order the Thai lambi — tender conch in a curry-like sauce — and pair it with a cocktail and the ocean breeze.

Looking for a little more action? Head to nearby Raymond-les-Bains, a beloved local beach that turns into a full-blown scene on weekends. Think boomblasters, buckets of grilled seafood, plastic chairs in the sand, and umbrella-shaded joy.

Book your stay at Hotel Cyvadier Plage!

Haiti Surf Guesthouse, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Haiti Surf Guesthouse

6. Haiti Surf Guesthouse

For those willing to trade room service for jungle silence and a surfboard, Haiti Surf Guesthouse is where the road — quite literally — goes off the map. Tucked deep into the hills above Cayes-Jacmel, about 40 minutes from the city of Jacmel, this rustic eco-lodge is all wooden bungalows, palm-thatched roofs, and trees so tall they block any glimpse of the sea. You’ll need a 4×4 or a steady moto to reach it, but the reward is a kind of wild, unplugged magic you won’t find anywhere else in Haiti.

Don’t expect air-conditioning or infinity pools. What you get instead: a communal kitchen, a low-key crowd of surfers and creatives, a restaurant serving strong cocktails and even stronger coffee, and a freshwater creek that runs straight through the property, feeding a spring-cooled plunge pool that’s as clear as it is cold. It’s the kind of detail that makes you believe in the art of slow living.

A short ride away lies Kabik Beach — one of Haiti’s best surf spots — where the waves roll in steady and the lineup is, well, nonexistent. The guesthouse rents boards and arranges lessons with local instructors. Most days, it’s just you, the ocean, and the sound of your own breath.

Reserve a bungalow at Haiti Surf Guesthouse!

Looking for more boutique stays across the country? Check out our guide to Haiti’s coolest independent hotels!


Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published March 2025.


Read story

Where to Wake up in Cap-Haïtien

Ekolojik Resort, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Five Hotels in Cap-Haïtien We Can’t Wait to Stay at Again

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

A good night’s sleep can make or break a trip, and in Cap-Haïtien, where history meets the sea, finding the right place to stay is just as important as the adventures that fill your days. From budget-friendly hideaways and eco-lodges tucked in the hills to resort stays where the ocean is just steps from your door, this city has something for every kind of traveler.

Here for work, leisure, or a deep dive into Okap’s storied past? Wherever your itinerary takes you, the right hotel makes all the difference—because waking up to a sunrise over the bay or a cool mountain breeze is the kind of travel memory that lingers. We’ve rounded up our favorite stays in Cap-Haïtien, chosen for their atmosphere, comfort, and that little something extra that keeps us coming back.

Time to check in.

Habitation des Lauriers in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Habitation des Lauriers

1. Habitation des Lauriers

If you’re looking for incredible views and a peaceful escape, Habitation Des Lauriers sits high on the mountainside at the edge of Cap-Haïtien, offering cooler temperatures, privacy, and some of the most breathtaking sunrises and sunsets in the city.

The hotel offers two types of rooms depending on your budget and comfort level. If you don’t mind basic amenities and no AC, the budget rooms are an affordable and practical option. For more comfort, the standard rooms come with air conditioning, a hot shower, and a cozy atmosphere.

Getting here is an adventure in itself—the road leading up to the hotel is steep, so you’ll need a 4×4 and an experienced driver. Once at the top, though, the views make it all worthwhile. And if you prefer to explore on foot, it’s just a 20-minute walk down to the city center, where you can visit Cap-Haïtien’s main sights.

The hotel also offers hiking trails in the surrounding mountains, making it a great spot for an early morning walk with panoramic views of the city.

Ready to wake up to this view? Check availability and book your stay!

Ekolojik Resort, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

2. Ekolojik Resort

Tucked away just outside the city in the hills of Bande-du-Nord, Ekolojik Resort stays true to its name—an eco-conscious retreat where nature takes center stage. In fact, “Ekolojik” is the Haitian Creole word for “ecological”, reflecting the resort’s deep commitment to sustainability. (Curious about more Haitian Creole words? Check out our guide to Haitian expressions.)

Intimate and cozy, the hotel has a welcoming, home-like feel. With breathtaking views of the city and bay of Cap-Haïtien, this is the kind of place where you’ll want to slow down and soak it all in.

The property is dotted with fruit trees and avocado trees, making it easy to see why the resort embraces locally sourced, organic ingredients. Whether you’re enjoying a meal or picking fresh fruit straight from the trees, everything here feels connected to the land.

The ultra-comfy beds aren’t just great for a good night’s sleep—they’re also perfect for afternoon naps or getting lost in a book, preferably with a cold glass of lemonade by your side. And when the heat kicks in, you can cool off in the pool, surrounded by greenery and fresh mountain air.

Want to wake up surrounded by nature? Reserve your eco-friendly escape today!

Auberge du Picolet
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

3. Auberge du Picolet 

Right on Okap’s boulevard, Auberge du Picolet is perfect for those who want to stay by the water while still being in the heart of the city. Whether you’re taking an evening stroll along the shore or catching the sunset over the bay, this spot offers a front-row seat to Cap-Haïtien’s coastal charm. Despite its central location, the atmosphere remains calm and welcoming.

What we love most about Auberge du Picolet is its character. The hotel is filled with antiques, vintage knick-knacks, and artistic pieces, from classic wooden trunks to statues and paintings, all woven with subtle nods to Haitian history.

The only downside? There’s no hot water—but if you can handle a refreshing morning shower, it’s a small trade-off for the character and location this hotel offers.

If this sounds like your kind of stay, it’s time to reserve your room.

Hôtel du Roi Christophe
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

4. Hôtel du Roi Christophe 

A stay at Hôtel du Roi Christophe is a journey through history, culture, and great cuisine. Located on Rue 24 B, right in the heart of Cap-Haïtien, this hotel is just a short walk from the famous cathedral, lively nightlife spots, and the city’s best restaurants.

If you ask us, the biggest highlight here is the food—it’s simply exceptional. Whether you’re enjoying a leisurely breakfast in the courtyard surrounded by palm trees or savoring a Creole specialty at dinner, every meal here feels like a step into Cap-Haïtien’s past and present.

The hotel’s historic charm and tranquil gardens make it an ideal place for a quiet retreat, whether you’re traveling solo or as a couple. We highly recommend bringing a book—there’s no better spot to immerse yourself in the world of Marie Vieux-Chauvet’s Love, Anger, Madness or Jacques Roumain’s Masters of the Dew. (Want to explore more works by Haitian women authors? Check out our guide to Haiti’s most influential women writers.)

And if you love a refreshing dip, you’re in luck—the hotel features a lovely pool, perfect for cooling off after a day of exploring.

Book now and see for yourself why we can’t wait to come back.

Cormier Plage Resort near Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

5. Cormier Plage Resort

Located on one of our favorite beaches in Okap, Cormier Plage Resort is the perfect spot for travelers who want to wake up just steps from the ocean. With both public and private beach areas protected by a reef barrier, the resort sits on a three-hectare park filled with century-old trees.

The 21 spacious rooms come with private balconies and stunning sea views, sitting just 10 meters from the shoreline. If you’re looking for a place to slow down and soak in the Caribbean atmosphere, this is it.

For those who like to stay active, Cormier has a full-size tennis court—and if you need to sharpen your game, there’s even a tennis coach available for lessons.

To get there, you’ll follow the scenic coastal road to Labadee Beach. The resort is easily accessible by car or moto taxi—every driver knows the location well. And with Cap-Haïtien’s airport just 30 minutes away, it’s a convenient choice for travelers looking to unwind by the sea.

Our recommendation: Try the strawberry smoothie at Cormier Plage—it’s the perfect drink to enjoy while gazing out at the endless blue of the Caribbean.

Can’t wait to experience it for yourself? Secure your ocean view room now!


Written by Melissa Beralus.

Published March 2025.


Read story

Visit the Oloffson Hotel

facade of gothic style gingerbread hotel with palm trees
Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Visit the Oloffson Hotel

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

The iconic Hotel Oloffson, a gothic “Gingerbread” mansion surrounded by a lush tropical garden, has been described as the most iconic hotel of not just Haiti but the whole Caribbean. The rickety 19th-century mansion is amazingly intact given its location in the centre of a city that has seen so much destruction.

While I wait for the black iron gates to open, passersby weave around my car. I honk again, and the gates creak open just enough to let me through. A doorman in a black cap and a faded T-shirt nods at me, then promptly creaks the gate shut again.

A winding cobblestone path flanked by green foliage disappears into deep gardens. There’s no hotel in sight. Instead, wrought iron sculptures with diabolic faces peer out from between the leaves. More and more strange sculptures appear, some created from car parts in a style I recognize as belonging to the Atis Resistance movement.

As the driveway winds further uphill, the white lattice of the mansion roof appears over the palm trees and mango leaves. On the left side of the driveway, a glittering white-and-mirror mosaic wall emerges into view. In the center, the mural shows a red and blue boat. Trained eyes know that more than a simple sailboat, this is actually a dedication to the vodou spirit of the sea, Agwe. Near the anchor that dips into the white waves, sacred inscriptions hint at the magic and folklore that infuses Hotel Oloffson.

Baron Samedi sculpture, Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Parking on a cobblestone flatway, I turn off the motor, and approach the famous front entrance of the Hotel Oloffson. Craning to look up, I marvel at the nest-like widow’s peak and the many turreted balconies on the upper floors. This particular example of gingerbread architecture was described as “an illustration from a book of fairy tales” by American author Graham Greene who once lived and wrote here. A fan of Wes Anderson Movies, I imagine the Hotel Oloffson as a Caribbean cousin to The Grand Budapest Hotel.

An air of sleepiness and reverie envelops the front steps which veer off to the left and right. Everything is painted white – the bricks, the timber upper stories, the intricately carved wood panels that section off the balconies. In an alcove set into the white stone base of a staircase, several sculptures stand watch, including a three-foot-high man who represents the Gede family of vodou lwa. The Gede are the gods of the crossroads between life and death celebrated annually during the Haitian Day of the Dead.

hotel restauarant veranda with tile floor green doors
Restaurant veranda at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Hotel Oloffson Restaurant

At the top of the stairs, an ancient-looking butler stands sentinel at the restaurant entrance. Behind him, an expansive verandah leads through a sequence of lobby rooms to a concert stage. I nod to the butler and choose a table in the far corner, overlooking the city of Port-au-Prince and the strip of azure sea beyond. A century of politicians, musicians, local artists and vodou priests have sat in this same chair.

The butler takes my order – the Oloffson’s famous rum punch cocktail and a side of accra – and shuffles over nineteenth-century mosaic tiles to disappear behind saloon doors painted with a vivid Haitian countryside scene. Haitian art is smattered across the grounds. The corner table of the Oloffson verandah is an excellent vantage point to take in the art collection that begins in the sculpture garden below and creeps up to the mansion, covering nearly every wall of the hotel lobby, restaurant, and its myriad guest rooms.

Above the table, a pearly pink-and-white sequined flag catches my eye. It carries one of the lwa cosmograms- sacred designs that act like a beacon, calling down the corresponding spirit. The curving heart shape indicates this is a flag created for Erzulie Freda – spirit of love and protector of children.

hotel bar interior with liquor bottles and old framed mirror
Bar at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

What to order

For starters, try the Oloffson’s famous rum punch cocktail, or a rum sour if you’re after something simpler. The best accompaniment is accra: the deep-fried, very spicy batter made from malanga root is prepared with special care in the hotel kitchen below, and arrives with a heaping pile of spiced pikliz – best eaten with your fingers.

old gothic style gingerbread hotel with lush green trees
Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

History

The mansion was built as the primary residence for the Sam family, an influential clan that boasts two former presidents of Haiti among its ranks. In 1915, following the infamous death of its owner at the hands of political protestors, the Sam mansion was seized by US military forces. The mansion served as a US military hospital until the US occupation ended in 1934.

Few visitors to Haiti know how the famed Hotel Oloffson got its current name, but I’ll let you in on the secret. In 1935, when the US occupation ended, the mansion was leased to a Swedish sea captain named Werner Gustav Oloffson, who wanted to retire from life on the open water in Haiti’s summery climate. Along with his wife Margot and two children, Captain Oloffson set about converting the lush expansive gardens, gingerbread mansion and hospital wing into Haiti’s finest hotel.

In the 1950s, 60s and 70s, the hotel went Hollywood. An outpost for the rich and fabulous, the Oloffson hosted the American political and cultural elite – Jackie Onassis Kennedy would often be found fanning herself on the nest-like balcony of the grand honeymoon suite. The emerald-green swimming pool in the garden hosted an endless stream of parties for musicians, models and writers, as one expat owner after the other took their turn at the helm.

Many of the rooms now boast hand-painted placards with the name of a famous past guest. Visitors can sleep in the Mick Jagger room, Jackie O room, Graham Greene room and more. Like their erstwhile guests, the hotel corridors are anything but straight and narrow: some suites are situated above the swimming pool, connected by hidden corridors. Others you reach by a winding narrow staircase off the main lobby. The staircase to the second floor is an ancient wooden construction that sinks underfoot in places, and leads further up into lofty galleries, then through a wooden passageway. Still more wooden passages take visitors into the wing that once held the American military hospital. The most sought-after rooms are in the main mansion, just above the lobby.

"Sunsan Sarandon" handpainted placard with flowers
Susan Sarandon placard, Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Live Music

Every Saturday night at the Oloffson, the band RAM – an absolute national treasure – delivers an unforgettable performance of vodou-infused rock. If you’re not a guest at the hotel or paying for a sit-down dinner, you’ll need to pay an entry fee of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars). The show starts around 10:30. Expect sing-a-longs with an enthusiastic crowd and dancing all night long. (Note that until recently, RAM played every Thursday, but changed to Saturdays in 2020.)

Weekly performances by RAM have become a ceremonial-grade ritual loved by all levels of society. Remarkably, in a country where consistency is hard to find, the band has consistently gigged at the Oloffson since 1990, when the band’s frontman took over running the hotel.

A “vodou rock and roots” band, RAM incorporates traditional vodou lyrics and instruments, such as rara horns and Petwo drums, into rock, and their lyrics are sung in a macaronic medley of Haitian creole, French and English.

Read more about RAM concerts at Hotel Oloffson here.

handpainted toy bus with Hotel Oloffson logo
Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The 2010 earthquake

After the 2010 earthquake, the Oloffson was one of the few hotels left standing in Port-au-Prince. Some joked that the ancient structure was held together by termites in the wood and magic in the rafters, but research has since shown that Haiti’s traditional gingerbread houses are surprisingly earthquake resistant.

The Oloffson became a major hub for the influx of humanitarian workers and global media outlets that descended on the capital. The expansive porches and grounds were an informal HQ for foreigners and emissaries of the estimated hundred thousand charities who became active in the “NGO Republic” of Port-au-Prince. Anyone seeking a meeting or rendezvous point defaulted to the Oloffson.

Era after era, the space has served its guests loyally. The Oloffson has been a family home, hotel, hospital, jam-hall, meeting place, humanitarian headquarters, art gallery, and celebrity escape.

The Hotel Oloffson stands guard over downtown Port-au-Prince, undeterred by rebellion, earthquake, or the famous faces that wander its corridors. The beauty of the fairytale is still unraveling, and seated comfortably in my chair with this view, I feel grateful for yet another chance to weave my own story into the stories of those who have come before. Sipping my rum punch, I wonder what will become of this space in another fifty years. Who will drive up the garden passage, and what incarnation of the Oloffson will they find?

interior of hotel guest room with wodden desk and sunlight
Balcony room at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Stay at the Oloffson

Almost a century after Captain Oloffson took over the sprawling gingerbread mansion, the Oloffson is still running as a boutique hotel.

Guests can stay in one of 22 rooms, dine at the in-house restaurant and lounge at the outdoor pool. All suites include a free continental breakfast, free WiFi, and free parking. One of the Oloffson’s attractions is its seclusion, and to save you having to travel into the city for essentials, there’s even a convenience store on site.

RAM plays on Saturday nights. The show is free for hotel guests and dinner customers.

The Oloffson is hidden from view on 60 Ave Christophe, Port-au-Prince, in the neighbourhood of Saint Gérard, just near trendy Pacot.

Within a short walk you’ll find the Museum of Haitian ArtChamps de Mars Square and the National Pantheon Museum. Haiti’s main airport is a 10 minute drive away.

Book your stay now!

facade of gothic style gingerbread hotel with palm trees and dog
Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published October 2020.


Read story

Catch a show with Haitian Vodou rock band RAM

haitian lead singer in band dancing in front of microphone
RAM performing at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: RAM.com

Catch a show with Haitian Vodou rock and roots band RAM

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

Every Saturday night at the Hotel Oloffson, the band RAM – a Haitian national treasure – delivers an unforgettable performance of Vodou-infused rock. If you’re not a guest at the hotel or paying for a sit-down dinner, you’ll need to pay an entry fee of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars). The show starts around 10:30. Expect sing-a-longs with an enthusiastic crowd and dancing all night long.

haitian musicians playing on trumpets
RAM performers with vaksin horns
Photo: RAM.com

On the gothic gingerbread verandah of the Oloffson, you can join a decades-long tradition of watching the sun set over Port-au-Prince with a rum sour or rum punch. On Saturday nights, there’s another ritual going on.

Weekly performances by RAM have become a ceremony loved by all levels of society. Remarkably, in a country where consistency is hard to find, the band has consistently gigged at the Oloffson since 1990, when the band’s frontman took over running the hotel. In fact, the band gets its name from the initials of the Oloffson’s owner, Richard Auguste Morse. Morse’s wife, Lunise, is the lead singer and main dancer.

A “Vodou rock and roots” band, RAM incorporates traditional Vodou lyrics and instruments, such as rara horns and Petwo drums, into modern rock-and-roll grooves. Their lyrics are sung in a macaronic medley of Haitian creole, French and English that islanders and diaspora can appreciate especially. To hear it is to connect with a distinctive sound that could only have been born in Haiti.

haitian band performing in front of crowd
RAM performing at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: RAM.com

RAM live: an unmissable experience

First off, expect to see anyone and everyone here. The shows are and have always been attended not just by often-international hotel guests but a diverse spectrum of the country’s political and ethnic groups and subcultures. Humanitarian workers line the front row next to cross-dressed dancers and Haitian artists from nearby downtown neighborhoods. Corner tables are occupied by foreign ambassadors and visiting celebrities, or Grammy award-winning musicians with a love for Haiti.

The lights are few and far between, and often shine out blue and red. Near the permanent stage erected in the heart of the Oloffson mansion, genuine vodouwizan practitioners can be spotted in the throng of dancers. Some of the people in the crowd have been regulars here for 20 years. One woman in a white traditional frock and elaborate satin turban loves to spray sacred flower-scented florida water on the crowd. Many know the lyrics by heart, no matter what decade the song is from. Several people appear to have entered their own worlds, dancing with unearthly vigour, evoking the scenes of ritual possession one might see at a Vodou ceremony or at the Haitian Day of the Dead.

haitian musicians in red and blue dresses performing
RAM performing
Photo: RAM.com

The early days of RAM

The band started in 1990 when Morse negotiated the lease for the Hotel – then very dilapidated. He created a folklore dance troupe along with his wife and a group of musicians – many from the poorer districts of nearby downtown neighborhoods.

RAM prides itself on having deep roots but always adapting to the times. Many of the lyrics have subtle or not-so-subtle political messages. In the new release “Ayiti Leve”, the lyrics (in Kreyòl) say: “Haiti you sleep too much. It’s time to wash your eyes.” The music video shows the corridors of the Oloffson clouded in darkness. The lead singer’s son, William – also bass guitarist for the band – sits on a traditional high-backed wooden chair in the dark. His mother Lunise walks through the french doors and hands him a candle, illuminating his face and the iconic porch behind him.

The Vodou-inspired drumming is classic RAM but this time the visual is unexpected. “Wake up. See where you are,” the lyrics continue. One by one, Lunise places a candle in each of the band members’ hands. It’s the same shadow play that makes visitors of the Oloffson aware they are wading thickly into something unseen.

Their 2020 Carnival song, “Kongo Lazil O (Kan’w Pran Ou Konnen)” marked RAM’s 28th carnival song release, spanning an era that has seen violent revolts, revolutions, and sometimes unpopular public opinions of RAM’s frontman Morse.

During the years of Haiti’s military regime, one of RAM’s songs, “Fèy” (“Leaf” in english), was censored nationally and eventually banned from radio play by the regime, who correctly perceived it to be a song covertly supporting the exiled President Jean-Bertrand Aristide. In defiance of death threats, the band continued to play weekly concerts at the Oloffson – until Morse only narrowly escaped a kidnapping, almost being carried out by junta authorities from the hotel in the middle of a performance in 1994. In 1998, the band’s lyrics offended the newly-elected mayor of Port-au-Prince, and they survived an assasination attempt on their float during a Carnival performance. While the Thursday night performances have been switched to Saturdays in 2020, RAM continues to use their iconic stage as a launch pad for social commentary. The band is loyal to providing lyrical provocation to Haiti’s political landscape.

How to see the show

RAM plays on Saturday nights at the Hotel Oloffson, 60 Ave Christophe, Port-au-Prince, in the neighbourhood of Saint Gérard, just near trendy Pacot.

The show is free for hotel guests and dinner customers. If you’re not sleeping at the hotel or paying for a sit-down dinner, you’ll need to pay an entry fee of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars). The show starts around 10:30 and runs until late.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published November 2020


Read story
cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Moulin Sur Mer

haitian beach resort with palm trees
Moulin Sur Mer on the Arcadins Coast
Photo: Moulin Sur Mer

Moulin Sur Mer

Moulin-sur-Mer is one of the Arcadins Coast’s star destinations; with idyllic sunsets and a warm tropical atmosphere, it is sure to capture the quintessential island lover.

First Impressions

The Arcadins Coast is one of Haiti’s greatest prides. Located in Montrouis, a few miles away from the capital, it faces the largest island nestled in the country’s bay: the island of La Gonave. In front of this turquoise blue ocean with beautiful waves and idyllic sunsets is where Moulin-sur-Mer rises.

Rooms

Moulin-sur-Mer features Hibiscus and Ginger rooms, the difference mostly lying in the decor choices. Bungalows, as well as classics and suites are available in classic Caribbean-style decor, highlighting Haitian art at every turn. If you want to be closer to the sea, you’ll want to book a bungalow; however, if you want to be closer to the amenities on the main grounds, a classic room or a suite would better suit your needs.

What’s for breakfast?

Breakfast at Moulin-sur-Mer is served at the Voomtak, their main seaside dining area, where local and international cuisine mingle for culinary good. Being so close to the Montrouis farmers market means that fresh, local produce will always grace your plate. Enjoy made-to-order omelets, fresh fruit, baked goods, standard international breakfast staples, but also Haitian breakfast stars like pasta or oatmeal.

How about lunch and dinner?

Voomtak also serves lunch and dinner. Again, here, Haitian food specialties like djondjon rice or seafood etouffées sit alongside fresh vegetables coming straight from the nearby market. Discover the ways international cuisine like stir-fry crosses path with Haitian spices. The Taino Lounge offers a menu of its own, as well as lively happy hours. Should you want a different, more intimate dining experience, the Captain’s Pagoda is a more discreet options that is also available to you.

Is there a bar?

If you’re looking to enjoy a delicious, refreshing drink, poolside or seaside, make a stop at the Moulin’s Cabaret. Classic drinks and exclusive cocktails make for star-studded afternoons and evenings. Happy hours here are very popular, and highly recommended!

Activities and amenities

Moulin’s main amenity is its marina. From scuba diving to water sports to PADI-certified courses, it’s an ocean lover’s paradise. Excursions are also available, both on land and on boats. Explore the depth of the Haitian coastline, both on and off the water.

Within a short walk you can find…

Before even getting out of your city clothes and into your bathing suit, you will walk past the Ogier Fombrun museum, where you can learn more about the city of Montrouis and its inhabitants. The museum is guarded in a colonial building that has lost none of its charm, and that is surrounded by coconut trees amongst other foliage that does nothing but add to its beauty.

Need to know (before you go)

Moulin-sur-Mer offers different packages based on your stay’s needs. If you are just stopping by, or taking advantage of your last day on the island, consider a Day Pass. If however, you’d like to dedicate time to this area of the island, an all-inclusive offer or a Stay & Dive package might be best for you.

Getting there

For directions and bookings visit Moulin Sur Mer on Hotels.com


Moulin Sur Mer

4 on TripAdvisor
3 Star Resort
+509 37 01 1918
Beach, Free Wi-Fi, Pool, Parking, Pet Friendly, Family Friendly, Breakfast Included
Read story
old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Wahoo Bay Beach Hotel

hotel pool by the ocean lined with palm trees
Wahoo Bay Beach Hotel, Carriès
Photo: Wahoo Bay Beach Hotel

Wahoo Bay Beach Hotel

Wahoo Bay Beach Hotel is the perfect choice for a fun and relaxing getaway.

First Impressions

Wahoo Bay Beach is a favorite beach resort among locals and tourists alike because of two things: its authenticity and its vibrance. Located an hour outside of Port-au-Prince, Wahoo Bay shares the area of Carriès with other beach resorts, but attracts visitors with a charm all its own. With a combination of exotic dining options, an impeccable location, and a lively staff, this resort is sure to have you feel like you could live the island life year round.

Rooms

Spanning 28 rooms, Wahoo errs on the smaller side and that’s exactly why it feels like a second home to most. Whether this is your last night on the island or you just want a place to spend a peaceful weekend before you head back to the city, Wahoo’s rooms are all equipped with A/C, Wi-Fi, and one of the most beautiful views of the ocean.
 
For those of you planning a girls’ trip or any group travels, Wahoo Bay also has an apartment with a patio and a half kitchen!

What’s for breakfast?

A complimentary breakfast is available when you stay for the night, but if your plan is to arrive early, Wahoo’s restaurant has more than enough options, all of which are under $15. Breakfast options include traditional fares such as eggs, pancakes, french toast, or even crepes.

How about lunch and dinner?

If Wahoo is known for its amazing Sunday fundays in the summer, it’s equally important to acknowledge that no other place does seafood like Wahoo does. Special meals feature their “catch of the day”, meaning that your food is as fresh as it can be. The creole conch is one to try at least once, but if you’re looking for something more familiar they also serve a variety of other plates including pasta (the Haitian spaghetti is unlike any other!) so rest assured, you will find something to eat. With less than $25 you can offer yourself any dish and can even go for a dessert. We highly recommend trying the Pain Patate (sweet potato pie, Haitian style) or Blanc Manger (coconut pudding) which are both traditional haitian delicacies.

Is there a bar?

Spend your afternoon or late night by the beach enjoying a cocktail to complement the creole plate you ordered, or offer yourself a glass of wine from Wahoo’s bar. Whatever it is you might be craving, Wahoo Bay’s got it. With a selection of rum, beer, tequila, and even whiskey, there is something for everyone, including a good time at the bar.

Activities and amenities

The beach is not the only attraction at Wahoo (although the ocean water trampoline is a fan-favorite). The resort offers all sorts of activities such as diving and snorkeling, fishing expeditions, kayaking, beach volleyball, and a cohort of other activities meant to enhance your stay. During the summer, Wahoo hosts Summer Sundayz with a live DJ; it’s when there’s more of a crowd but it’s also when you are more likely to have a taste of real Haitian fun. Lastly, Wahoo Bay also offers different massage packages at its spa for when you come back from that hike or simply for a relaxing evening.

Within a short walk you can find…

An hour-long drive north of the resort, is where you will find Anse-a-Pirogue, one of Haiti’s most beautiful coastal towns. Make sure you take some time to visit this vibrant and colorful city, and most importantly, spend some time in or by the clear blue waters, with some friends and a few Prestige beers.

Need to know (before you go)

Although the resort offers free breakfast to its guests, the options for lunch and diner are only available a-la-carte and not included in the reservation fee. Unfortunately, Wahoo Bay Beach Hotel does not provide transportation from and to the city or the airport.

Getting there

For directions and bookings visit Wahoo Bay Beach on Hotels.com


Wahoo Bay Beach Hotel

4 on TripAdvisor
3 Star Resort
+509 37 35 2536
Beach, Pool, Air conditioning, Kid / Family Friendly, Breakfast Included, Free Wi-Fi

Read story