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Haitian cuisine

15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

a plate of haitian food
Fritay at 5 Coins, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

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Haiti is a land of bold flavours, bright colours, intoxicating music, mischievous spirits and a heady mix of cultures. Haitian creole cuisine is built on fresh seafood, island-grown greens and exotic fruits, all full of West Indies spices and an often surprising mix of elements both familiar and strange.

The fast-service restaurant concept hasn’t yet washed ashore in Haiti, so be ready to lean into the luxury that is island time: even in the capital city, everything has an unhurried, unpretentious atmosphere. Sipping rum sours in a palm-fringed patio or lounging around in an airy, high-ceilinged colonial dining room while you wait is a great way to sink into the Caribbean vibes.

Here is our ultimate guide on where to find the best Haitian eats for every taste:

a plate of haitian food
Fritay at 5 Coins, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

1. Fritay at 5 Coins

The cornerstone of Haitian cuisine, fritay is the best place to start your Haitian food journey. 5 Coins is one of the most well-known names in the business, with five kitchens throughout metropolitan Port-au-Prince. They offer all the classic fritay dishes: bannann peze (fried plantains), griyo (fried pork), akra (malanga fritters), lam fri (fried breadfruit) and fried chicken – all supplemented with Caribbean staples – rice and peas – or specialty sides.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat
Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

2. Fish at Le Coin des Artistes – Vivano

Seafood straight from the surf is unbeatable. For the best fresh fish in Port-au-Prince, drop into Le Coin des Artistes — Vivano. Because their fish is always sustainably caught on their own restaurant-owned properties, your meal is supporting best-practice fishing in Haiti. You can ask for your fish to be either pwason griye (grilled) or an sòs (stewed).

plate with conch gratine and slices of bread
Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

3. Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant

Head downtown to the Pacot district for the treasure that is Gingerbread Restaurant. Their gratine lanbi (conch gratinée) alone is worth the trip. Locally known as lambi, conch is a mollusc native to the waters of the Bahamas but popular throughout the Caribbean islands. A step above the standard lanbi an sòs (stewed conch), this is a Haitian foodie experience to savour. The rich sauce of the gratinée envelops tender bits of conch, rendering them even more flavorful than they are naturally. A real culinary delight!

plate with pizza topped with shrimp, onions and cheese
Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

4. Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou

Interested in what Haitian cuisine can do when it fuzes with food from other countries? Look no further than Yanvalou’s shrimp pizza! A specialty of the house, it’s the perfect cross between the mellow, indulgent feeling you get from enjoying pizza, heightened by the fresh taste of tender bits of shrimp scattered on top. Down a slice along with a rum sour in the leafy patio.

colofull restaurant area with tables and chairs
La Coquille restaurant in Pétion-Ville
Photo: La Coquille

5. Buffet at La Coquille

Come hungry to La Coquille! This popular Pétion-Ville restaurant houses one of the most well-known Haitian cuisine buffets in the capital. Work your way through fried pork, fried chicken, stewed conch, and goat — alongside a selection of rice-centric sides, depending on what is available that day. White rice and black bean sauce, rice and peas, djondjon rice…dessert is included as well!

6. Griyo (fried pork) at Au Bon Griot

A quick drive outside of Pétion-Ville you’ll find Au Bon Griot, one of the best places in the area of Boutilier for griyo (fried pork). While it’s one of those hole-in-the-wall places, it definitely is somewhere worth stopping. Made fresh to order, the griyo comes with a generous helping of fried plantains and pikliz. What better way to enjoy griyo than overlooking the city of Port-au-Prince?

7. Fettucine Djondjon at Karibe Hotel

If you’ve tried djondjon rice, you know this tiny mushroom packs a punch. Native to Haiti, djondjon mushrooms are known for their “exquisite color, taste and aroma.” For a dish that makes the most of this unique ingredient, stop by the restaurant at Karibe Hotel in Juvénat for their specialty – djondjon fettucine! The rich, velvety pasta sauce is made inky black by the exotic djondjon.

8. Soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Kinam Hotel

You’ve read all about it – now treat yourself to a warm and comforting bowl of soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Pétion-Ville’s Kinam Hotel. Filled with pasta and rustic chunks of carrots, potatoes, and meat, this soup is an already hearty meal, but some people enjoy it with freshly toasted bread, which you can request. Soup Joumou on Sundays is a cultural institution in Haiti, and there’s no better way to kick off your week!

Outside Port-au-Prince?

That’s Port-au-Prince covered, but what about the rest of the country?

hands holding a sandwich with meat
Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff

Out touring the hills of Thomassin or Fermathe? You’re not far away from the area of Kenscoff, where the specialty of bib is extremely popular. What is a bib? Simply put, it’s a sandwich that features fried pork meat and pikliz (a spicy relish and a crucial in Haitian creole cuisine) in soft, pillowy bread. No formal restaurant here, just a hole-in-the-wall place just past the police department of Kenscoff, but a must-try foodie experience nonetheless!

waiter holder a plate of grilled goat meat with carrots and potatoes
Kabrit griye at Ranch Le Montcel, Kenscoff
Photo: Ranch Le Montcel

10. Kabrit griye (grilled goat) at Le Montcel, Kenscoff

Sustainably-raised meat is more common than you might expect in this island nation. One of the best places to taste the creole dish kabrit griye (grilled goat) is Le Montcel. A sprawling property set into the hills of Kenscoff, Le Montcel is able to grow a lot of its own produce and raise its own animals. This makes for one of the most succulent griyo, which pulls apart wonderfully!

11. Mayi moulen ak fèy (cornmeal and spinach) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

One of the pleasures of waking up in Cap-Haïtien is getting breakfast on the boulevard. We recommend stopping by Boukanye, where you can enjoy a hearty, flavorful breakfast of mayi moulen ak fèy!

While mayi moulen (polenta) is usually eaten as the major part of a midday or evening meal, it is prepared here for breakfast as mayi moulen ak fèy, served with spinach and kipper. Even better with freshly sliced avocado! In season (roughly august-november) avocados are so abundant on Haiti that you can afford to eat them for breakfast every day – and pay off your mortgage too.

12. Poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

Visit pirate-themed bar and grill Boukanye in Cap-Haïtien to try the North Haitian specialty of poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews). Cashews grow around Cap-Haïtien and are used liberally in local cuisine. In this signature northern dish, succulent strips of chicken stirred through a flavorful, savory sauce, and topped with halved cashews. Usually enjoyed with a generous side of white rice, or rice and peas.

13. Lanbi an sòs (stewed conch) at Lakay, Cap-Haïtien

Lakay in Cap-Haïtien is one of the best places to get lunch. If you happen to be in the area, we recommend getting the lanbi an sòs (stewed conch)! The stewed-to-perfection conch melts in your mouth. The house standard is served with rice but you can request fried plantains or fried potatoes to make for an even more robust meal – great if you’ve been out hiking or swimming all morning.

vendor cutting pieces of gingerbread
Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) in Les Cayes
Photo: Franck Fontain

14. Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) from Les Cayes

Wander up to the crossroads of Quatre-Chemins in Les Cayes to find the delicacy that is bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread). Thick, sweet, and filling, it is the kind of dessert you enjoy with a cup of coffee or tea. It’s like giving your tastebuds a big warm hug.

milk fudge wrapped in plastic
Dous makòs (milk fudge) in Petit-Goâve
Photo: Franck Fontain

15. Dous makòs (milk fudge) from Petit-Goâve

For those who have a curious sweet tooth, the town of Petit-Goâve is the place to go. Here you’ll find dous makòs (milk fudge); a wonderfully decadent tri-color sweet treat. Sugar, milk, condensed milk, and a slew of warming spices like vanilla, nutmeg, and cinnamon come together over high heat, are poured into molds to cool, then sliced into the delicious, rich slabs of dous makòs fudge.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2021


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How Haitian Are You? Try This Cultural Quiz!

bright colorful haitian truck loaded with cabbage
Truck loaded with cabbage
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon (K2D)

How Haitian Are You? Prove Yourself with This Cultural Quiz!

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Haiti has a lot of history, so much to show and so much to tell. Do you know some not so common Haitian facts or want to prove to your Haitian grandmother that you know some Kreyòl? Maybe you’ve visited Haiti so many times you feel Haitian in your heart and want to test what you know. That’s why we’re here! Take this quiz to find out just how Haitian you are!

Let’s test how Haitian you are!

If these questions were a bit  too challenging and you still need to brush up on some more simple facts, stick around and check out our “Test Your knowledge – How many facts about Haiti do you know?” Quiz!  If you want to access your inner Captain Morgan try our “Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?” Quiz!


Created by Zachary Warr.

Published April 2021.


Our Favorite Restaurants in Cap-haïtien

people seated at tables dining outside a restaurant
People dining outside Lakay Restaurant, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

Our Favorite Restaurants in Cap-haïtien

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Haitian cuisine is a delicious crossroads with recipes inherited from African ancestors, Native Caribbean Americans, and colonial Europeans. Modern Haiti is divided into ten departments, each with its own capital and its own specialty dish. Grand-Anse is known for its legendary tonmtonm and konparèt, Artibonite for its lalo – every department has its own flavor.

Cap-Haïtien, as the second-biggest city in Haiti and the capital of the North department, is home to a bounty of world-class restaurants and cosy cafés where you can experience local cuisine.

To ease you into that culinary trip, here is a (non-exhaustive) list of restaurants in Cap-Haïtien that will elevate your stay in the city!

yellow restaurant building in cap-haitien
Lakay, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Anton Lau

01. Lakay

The Haitian word lakay means “at home,” and that’s exactly where you will feel in this restaurant where you can enjoy a delicious sugar cane juice. They are the first to have added this exotic specialty to their menu, and now that it’s here, it’s impossible to leave Cap-Haïtien without tasting it!

We recommend: the stewed conch!

nighttime view of restaurant on a city street with palm trees
Cap Deli Restaurant, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Cap Deli

02. Cap Deli

Cap Deli is unbeatable when it comes to Capois cuisine. They are the ideal blend of modern and traditional dining, reinventing fare to please even the pickiest of eaters.

We recommend: the Creole fritay platter!

people seated in dining area inside a restaurant
Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Boukanye

03. Boukanye

Hello Creole cuisine, with plantains, pikliz, and well-seasoned sauces and meats! Would you like to taste a finger-licking good plate of rice? You won’t find it anywhere better than at Boukanye.

We recommend: Pintade Labapen!

beach at night with moonlight reflecting in the ocean
View of Cormier Plage, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Cormier Plage

04. Comier Plage

Good, authentic cooking and a gorgeous, unobstructed view of the turquoise blue water of the sea of Cap-Haïtien — what more could you ask for? Breathe in the fresh sea air over a good breakfast, or enjoy the sound of the waves over a plate of fresh-caught seafood made to Comier Plage’s secret recipe.

We recommend: the lobster or the conch!

plate with grilled conch, fried plantains, rice and salat
Kokiyaj restaurant, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Kokiyaj

05. Kokiyaj

Two words describe the cuisine of Kokiyaj: deliciously excellent. With rave reviews from hungry travellers, this a great place to experience quality Haitian cooking.

We recommend: the conch salad!

evening view of hotel restaurant
Haitian pikliz
Photo: Franck Fontain

06. Hôtel Roi Christophe

The tropical garden and beautiful architecture of Hôtel Roi Christophe is enough to make it worth a visit, but it’s not the only reason we recommend dining here. This old colonial residence has lost none of its charm and must be the envy of many a Caribbean city.

We recommend: the daily special (ask your waiter!)

facade of a closed restaurant with old horse carriage parked in front
Barik Restaurant, Cap Haïtien
Photo: Mozart Louis

07. Barik

Did you know that goat meat is popular in Haiti? If you would like to experience it, Barik is the place to go! They also serve up delicious, juicy fish -grilled or stewed- like you have never tasted before.

We recommend: anything with goat meat, obviously.

Must-try local speciality

Cap-Haïtien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.


Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2020


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Have You Tried These 7 Haitian Summer Flavours?

Mango vendor
Photo: Franck Fontain

Have You Tried These 7 Haitian Summer Flavours?

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Here’s our guide to the quintessential Haitian flavors in season at the high point of the year.

If “summer in Haiti” for you is synonymous with refreshing rum punches and cocktails, you’re not wrong! Every summer, Haiti brightens up with the colors of seasonal fruit. Tables at markets, restaurants and homes pile up with fresh fruit fan-favorite vegetables essential for some of the most-loved classic Haitian dishes.

Whet your appetite and test your knowledge of Caribbean cuisine with this list of our seven favorite Haitian summer flavors!

bunch of green haitian kenèp fruits hanging on tree
Kenèp
Photo: Franck Fontain

01. Kenèp (Guinep)

This fruit is what summer in Haiti tastes like, in a bite. Everybody on the island eagerly awaits the first harvest of this sweet and juicy fruit. It grows in bunches on gorgeous tall trees, and to eat it, you have to crack the thin shell open with either your teeth or hands, then suck the flesh of the fruit, and spit out the seed, which is about the size of a marble. If you’re visiting anytime between June and August, you’ll be able to try them too, and fall in love.

mango fruits on display with pineapples
Mangoes
Photo: Franck Fontain

02. Mango

Mangoes are present year-round in Haiti but as early as the month of March, there are at least 12 different varieties that become available in abundance – mango lovers rejoice! The varieties differ in shape, size, and most importantly, flavor. If you’re new to the mango game, we recommend starting with Mango Baptiste, Mango Francique, and Mango Kòn. Don’t hesitate to ask your host or local fruit vendor for pointers! Haiti is divided into 10 departments, and each department produces its own kind because of differences in weather, which makes for a rich variety to choose from.

haitian fruit vendor cutting a watermelon
Watermelon
Photo: Franck Fontain

03. Watermelon

If there’s anything we know for a fact, it is that Haiti gets very hot during the summer. Luckily, summer is watermelon season in Haiti, and they are everywhere! There are hardly any fruits that can’t or won’t be transformed into a delicious, refreshing juice during Haiti’s hot summers, and watermelon juice is no exception. The very best feeling after a day out in the city or a hike is that first taste of freshly-squeezed watermelon juice.

a straw hat filled with green okra
Kalalou
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Kalalou (Okra)

Green and fuzzy on the outside when raw, kalalou is a typical Caribbean vegetable that turns slimy (but extremely delicious!) when stewed. If you are at all familiar with American Southern cooking, you’ll probably recognize this vegetable in its fried form. In Haiti, however, you’re more likely to find kalalou cooked down into a stew with some meat — usually beef — and served as an accompaniment to a serving of rice and beans. If you want to try something new and unusual during your adventure in Haiti, kalalou stew should be at the top of your must-try list!

haitian woman holding a bunch of light green haitian chayote fruits
Militon
Photo: Franck Fontain

05. Militon (Chayote)

Militon is one of the vegetables that you have to try at least once. It’s a starchy vegetable, so its texture is comparable to that of a potato, but when cooked, it’s much softer and more complex in flavor. In Haiti, it’s commonly eaten as part of a meat stew, or a gratinée, meaning that it’s baked with cheese and a béchamel sauce. With the right spices, the right amount of crunch and the perfect portion of cheese, gratinée is a great introduction to militon and will prepare you for different, more adventurous preparations.

green haitian soursop fruit hanging on tree branch
Kowosòl
Photo: Franck Fontain

06. Kowosòl (Soursop)

Kowosòl is another summer staple fruit. Its consistency is very close to that of an unripe pineapple. The fruit has small thorns on the outside but slices open to reveal rich, white, fragrant flesh. Although one can eat kowosòl (sometimes called corossol) as is, it’s usually blended into a juice with either milk or water and sweetened to taste. Best enjoyed on a breezy balcony on a beautiful hot day.

brown haitian tamarind fruits
Tamarind
Photo: Franck Fontain

07. Tamarind

If tangy flavors are your thing, this summer fruit is right up your alley. Tamarind is hugely popular in Haiti and while the tanginess can make this flavor divisive, it has some very loyal fans. Some people who love this fruit swear by its benefits: it’s rich in antioxidants, is said to fire up your metabolism, and is apparently great for your skin too! Who knew?

Used in curries and desserts across Asia, tamarind is most often consumed in Haiti as a juice. During tamarind season, you’ll be able to find tamarind juice at most restaurants and hotels. Enjoy!


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published February 2020


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Meet the Locals: Travel Guide Ann-sophie Hamilton

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf

Sustainable travel guide Ann-Sophie

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Ann-Sophie Hamilton is one of the brightest Haitian voices on Instagram. Using visual storytelling, she takes her followers on adventures around Haiti, inviting us to fall in love with every facet of the island.

Based in Port-au-Prince, Ann-Sophie has established herself as a blogger, travel planner, business owner, and life coach. In 2015, she moved back to Haiti from Canada and launched her own sustainable tourism company, Mennen’m La Tours.

We asked Ann-Sophie to tell us all about her favourite places to visit in Haiti.

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf
Ann-Sophie
Photo: Ted Olivier Mompérousse
What’s the first thing we should try, do or see once we arrive in Haiti?

The first thing to do, of course, is to try the food. Good, authentic, Haitian food is a must!

The second thing, if you want to see a beautiful Haitian beach – which you most likely will, is to head to Bananier, without a doubt.

What is your favorite upscale place to eat? How about your favorite ordinary place to eat?

I have a few. I really like to eat at Le Florville. The food there is really good, and the view of the mountains is really nice. I like Portofino; it’s not really casual but not extremely fancy — somewhere in between. Quartier Latin is also a great place to grab a bite; I really love the décor. I really like eating at Haiku, as well.

Bacchus opens only late at night. It has the best goat and pork, and their fried plantains and spicy sauce are really nice. It’s a little place that you only know about if someone tells you about it. It’s clean and quite spacious.

Which city outside of Port-au-Prince is a must-see, and why?

Jacmel would be my must-see, because there’s so much to do. Each city is known for something. Petit-Goave is known for beaches. Nippes is the destination for waterfalls. Jacmel is a combination of many things: good food, good art, and they also have Bassin Bleu – which is a must visit.

Their beaches are really good for surfing, if you’re into that. In the outskirts of Jacmel, there are also a lot of plantations — awesome places to see.

What’s one place nature-lovers should absolutely see?

If you’re into nature and adventure, the hike to Seguin is a once in a lifetime experience – because some people only have the strength do it only once, but it’s so worth it! It’s a seven-hour hike from Furcy to Seguin, but when you get there, there’s a waterfall and a guest house with good food.

It’s a very challenging experience, but with a good group and healthy snacks, it’s definitely possible and an awesome attraction! Mennen’m La Tours can organize tours for people who already have a group and who would like to make it to Seguin!

Where should we go to get the best souvenirs and artworks?

In Port-au-Prince, I recommend Place St. Pierre in Pétion-Ville for paintings and other artworks, and Village de Noailles for iron artwork.

In Jacmel, there are plenty of little shops all over the city where you can get a variety of different artworks and souvenirs.

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf
Ann-Sophie
Photo: Ted Olivier Mompérousse

Interview by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2020


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8 of the most Instagrammable cafes in Port-au-Prince

haitian restaurant with many guests dining
Magdoos, Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

The most Instagrammable cafes in Port-au-Prince

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01. Angel Touch Café

Located above Pizza Garden in Pétion-Ville, Angel Touch Café is an oasis of calm in the center of downtown Pétion-Ville. Everything from the colorful waiting area to the large, airy patio restaurant resonates with Caribbean style. The restaurant itself, painted in pastels with plenty of hanging plants, is a charming place to enjoy your coffee while soaking up the atmosphere of Pétion-Ville.

02. Rébo Expresso

For a quick, hearty bite to eat, stop by Rébo Expresso, also in Pétion-Ville. Those signature Caribbean bright, contrasting colors are here too, and the smell of freshly ground coffee permeates the air. With bright orange walls and blue cups and saucers, Rébo Expresso is the place to go for a morning coffee where the decor wakes you up as much as the caffeine.

03. Banbile Café

A rustic wooden interior and playful exterior make up Banbile Café, in Pétion-Ville. The red color scheme ties the entire place together, from seat cushions to accents by the counter. Coffee options abound on their menu – in addition to all the typical European coffee styles, you’ll find iced lattes, caramel frappes and frozen funky monkey. On Sundays, Banbile is a great place to enjoy the quintessential Haitian dish soup joumou.

04. Mountain Maid (Kay Walas)

If you make it up to the hills of Fermathe, we strongly recommend you visit Mountain Maid, better known as Kay Walas to the locals. The Mountain Maid café offers a wide balcony open to the lush surrounds of the mountains east of Port-au-Prince, and an extensive gift shop with high quality pieces made by local craftsmen and craftswomen. Early in the morning, the fog over the farmland makes the destination especially photogenic.

05. Marie Béliard

Known for its delicious pastries and baked goods, Marie Béliard is one of the most popular bakeries in Port-au-Prince. Between cheeky, rustic wooden signs and pastel colors, this patisserie is a joyful example of French influence in the city – it’s a real piece of Paris in the middle of the Caribbean. We recommend the delicious almond croissant and cinnamon bun.

If you’re in town to celebrate a special occasion, this is the place to order a specialty cake.

06. Café Cho, Marriott Hotel

If you’re in the area of Turgeau, you can stop by the Marriott Hotel to grab a bite at Café Cho. With high white walls and raw woodgrain accents, Cho offers a sleek, minimalist setting that’s almost Nordic in nature, in strong contrast with the palm trees and sunny boulevards just outside the Marriott’s gates.

Step into the air conditioning to try American-style sandwiches and pastries with local Haitian coffee. We recommend a strong Haitian coffee with a chocolate brownie.

07. Yanvalou

Well-known for its Thursday night events, Yanvalou doubles as a quaint and colorful café in the daytime. Featuring a large-scale graffiti of Nina Simone — which you’ll definitely want some snaps of — Yanvalou is the perfect place to enjoy a midday bite if you’re in the area of Pacot.

08. Wide Awake Café, Kinam Hotel

For health-conscious travellers, Wide Awake Café is the place to go! Located in Kinam Hotel at Pétion-Ville, Wide Awake is designed to embody a tropical modern interiors. The menu boasts a large selection of breakfast and lunch options, most of which are vegan-friendly.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published September 2019


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