TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

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The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon

interior of haitian MUPANAH museum with golden sculptures
MUPANAH – Museum of The Haitian National Pantheon
Photo: Anton Lau

The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon

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About the museum

Much of Haitian heritage is preserved orally. Songs, stories and structured debates rehearse and refine the histories and experiences down the centuries. As a visitor, you can only scratch the surface of this unseen medium of memory. If you’re in Champ-de-Mars, and you’re lucky, you might witness the debate circles that are part of the island nation’s oral tradition.

Material cultural memories, however, are a little easier for the curious traveller to find. If you’re in downtown Champ-de-Mars, you can find it in the Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon, or MUPANAH. Built partially underground, this museum displays artefacts illustrating Haiti’s history with an emphasis on its revolutionary years and its political and cultural forefathers.

Thanks to being partly underground, the museum survived the massive earthquake of 2010 almost unscathed. First opened in 1983, MUPANAH was designed to safeguard and display the lives and accomplishments of the country’s important forefathers: Alexandre Pétion, Henry Christophe, Toussaint Louverture, and Jean-Jacques Dessalines. This is where a lot of Haiti’s physical colonial history is kept intact.

What you’ll see

For a small fee, visitors get access to a wealth of history on Haiti and its past. Self-designated as the guardian of Haitian history, the museum is split into two show rooms: a permanent exhibit, and a temporary exhibit.

The permanent exhibit showcases artefacts from the pre-Columbian period to the contemporary period. It emphasizes the revolutionary period, during which an army of self-freed slaves and free people of color fought off the colonial system to abolish slavery.

A tour guide take visitors through Haitian history, starting off with the Taíno people who first inhabited the island. Visitors are walked through the voyages of the first colonizers to set foot on the island: the Spaniards.

Learn how Spanish colonizers used the Taíno people of the island as a resource, and how it came about that they began to traffic African slaves to Hispaniola as well.

See real examples of the actual shackles that were used to keep slaves under control, alongside gruesome instruments of torture used the slave masters. While this may be shocking for some visitors, the museum and its advisory board believe this is an important part of Haitian history that should be kept alive for the sake of our collective memory.

See the anchor of the Santa Maria ship – on which Christopher Colombus arrived in Haiti – standing at a daunting thirteen feet tall. This cold hunk of metal is a chilling reminder of the trigger that began the centuries of upheaval now embedded in the Haiti’s history and national identity.

Read documents signed by, and belonging to, prominent presidents – such as noted dictator François Duvalier – the museum also features the silver handgun which Henri Christophe used to commit suicide. On a more uplifting note, you’ll get to see the bell that was rung to announce that the country’s population were claiming their independence.

Temporary exhibits

The temporary exhibit displays artworks from various Haitian artists, and rotates on a regular basis. The art is often chosen based on a particular theme, including current events, music, social and economic issues, or historical events such as French colonisation.

Relax in gorgeous gardens

Outside of the museum are the MUPANAH Gardens. Open from Monday to Saturday, the Gardens are set in a lovely white greenhouse-like space with large open windows throughout. Light, airy, and expansive, the Gardens are a much needed antidote to Haiti’s often heavy history, and are a worthy destination in their own right for anyone looking for fresh air and tranquility in Port-au-Prince.

The Gardens feature a sculpture garden and sitting area set in the middle of typical Haitian greenery, and house the museum’s restaurant and gift shop. Overlooking the lush green spaces surrounding the museum, you can dig into some of the city’s best French cuisine. Sitting at a table in the Gardens for lunch is an upscale outdoor dining experience – a vivid contrast to the sizzling street food scene of downtown Port-au-Prince.

The Gardens also serve as a popular location for cultural events all year round, including the International Jazz Festival of Port-au-Prince. Special events, meals, or cocktails are announced at the venue itself, but also via social media.

Getting there

The museum is open seven days a week, including holidays. Tours are offered in French, Creole, and in English.

The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon is located in Champs de Mars, downtown Port-au-Prince.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2019


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Festi Graffiti – Haiti’s International Festival of Urban Arts

haitian street artist painting a graffiti mural
Graffiti artist working on a mural in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Festi Graffiti 2022

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Home to dozens of galleries and artist-led-initiatives, the suburbs of Turgeau and Pétion-Ville are usually the hub of the annual Festi Graffiti – The International Festival of Urban Arts.

This year however, the street art festival takes place in Cap-Haïtien.

Ramble through the sun-bleached streets in Haiti’s second city and soak up the freshest work by emerging Haitian street artists and visiting artists, from figurative murals to photography installations revealing Haiti’s urban dance battle scene.

This year’s installment of Festi Graffiti is happening between August 16 and 22, 2022. Hosting street artists from Mexico, Jamaica, and United States. This year’s theme is “natural disasters – living with them.”

Look out for these artists

Established international street artists on the bill for this year include Mexican mural artist Eva Bracamontes (check out her Instagram here) and American street artist OU (check out his Instagram here).

Local Haitian artists include Snoopy (@snoopytag), OliGa (@oligarts), and RAYZA (@rayzatheking), plus an ever-changing lineup of emerging street artists who show up each year to show off their skills. Expect to see plenty of evocative murals as well old-school difficult-to-decipher tags.

Don’t miss

Downtown Cap-Haïtien, don’t miss your chance to taste delicious local dishes at some of the city’s best restaurants.

A host of activities are available during festival dates, from guided tours to hands-on workshops. Be sure not to miss anything by following Festi Graffiti on Instagram and Facebook.


Written by Jean Fils.

Published June 2019

Updated August 2022


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Peer into the Studio of Haitian Artist Maxan Jean Louis

Maxan Jean Louis in his studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Peer into the Studio of Haitian Artist Maxan Jean Louis

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Take a look inside Maxan’s studio

Originally on the path to become a bricklayer, Maxan Jean-Louis picked up a paintbrush under the advice of his cousin and altered his life forever. Born in the west-Haitian province of Jérémie in 1966, Maxan travelled to Port-au-Prince as a youth to find his way as an artist. Since then, his work has found its way into European museums, international private collections and the homes of Maxan’s friends, who range from teachers to Ambassadors.

A true artist and a simple, bohemian spirit, Maxan treats his friends from all walks of life with the same respect and kind sense of humour. Every week, he welcomes visitors into his home studio, east of Route de Freres at a dirt road cutoff one mile past the Police Commissariat.

Visitors enter the gate into an empty two car garage and walk through to an open air art gallery. Exterior walls of a never-finished two-story house are covered in decades of his art. Political works from the 1990s are hung on unfinished cement walls around the home’s exterior. The political scenes are juxtaposed with the more figurative, Vodou-inspired style that has made him celebrated internationally as well as here in his native Haiti.

Climbing the stairs that wind around to the back of the house, you enter the creative domain of Maxan Jean Louis. A wide studio is covered in floor-to-ceiling canvases in various stages of work. To the left you’ll see another permanent fixture in an unfinished room without a roof.

Leaned against the cinderblock walls are chest-high mounds of empty Prestige beer bottles, with the odd Rhum BarbanCourt tossed in. It’s an impressive sight and has taken years to build up. Beaming with pride, Maxan takes the mountain of bottles in with a fatherly gesture, and they’re transformed into a deliberate installation.

Near the house is a waterfall, and if you’re in the mood for a short hike, Maxan will gladly show off this nearby natural wonder. He might even take you swimming in the basin below.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Inspired by visions

While Maxan is considered an artist of the Saint Soleil school, he’ll tell you that he paints in two different styles. The first is characterised by fantastical, colourful and elongated forms that rise up off a vibrant background. It’s a body of work rooted in a dream world, and inspired by his own visions.

These Vodou-influenced canvases range from miniatures to murals, but all emit movement and dance. These are the works of a natural talent, born from experiments and visionary moments. A predominant theme is release from the heavy burn of everyday life. Visually, it represents the same escape so many people seek, and find, during religious ceremonies, dances or musical festivals.

Maxan’s second style is a distinct departure in mood, form and colour. The pallet is paler and the theme is overtly political. According to the book “Artistes Haitian” published by APAM, Maxan was heavily influenced by the political coup of 1991 which ousted Jean Bertrand Aristid and brought forth a wave of violence against civilians.

Maxan turned to surrealism and began to document atrocities and political assassinations in vivid colour. They were events that he lived through, and he turned to art to express his reactions. But Maxan is above all, a jovial spirit. Grand gestures of generosity flow freely from his rough hands. He offers new friends masterful paintings like they’re chocolate bars and exchanges with artists whose work he admires.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

“There’s not enough room”

Maxan has built up an impressive art collection over the past 30 years. The four main rooms of his house are covered in floor-to-ceiling tableaus from local Haitians and international artists alike. Works of art are stacked three deep on couches and floors: there’s not enough room to hang them all. And this isn’t even his own work.

There’s an advantage to being a former mason, still close-knit with the building community. Maxan will regularly have a 10 to 20 foot high canvas stretched and work on three of them simultaneously. He adores wild, untraditional canvas sizes. The more “dezod” or uncouth the dimensions the better. The grey exterior walls of his multi story home are often covered in his orange, green, and vibrant red paintings.

With such a prodigious pace, Maxan has to design his murals to be mobile. To create more space for new giant murals, Maxan has sold them to expats, embassies and private dealers. Maxan recalls that in 2017 one collector visited his studio and took home 27 paintings.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Where to find Maxan’s art

In Haiti, you’ll find Maxan featured in the most prominent galleries and homes. Beyond the Caribbean, Maxan turns up in France, Romania, and the Netherlands. For fine art enthusiasts, it may be difficult to reconcile this reputation with the slapdash studio and charming, crooked smile of Maxan. He is most often seen zipping around Port-au-Prince on the back of a motorcycle with a baseball cap on his head, baggy T-shirt, and cargo jeans.

Many weeks he heads this way to the Lycee Francais to teach art classes to the children of diplomats and local Haitians who are enrolled in the French system. French support for Haitian cultural promotion and Maxan in particular, is longstanding.

His first major exhibit was at the French Embassy in 2005 and he visits France every summer with the Haitian group PROM-ART HAITI to engage in cultural exchanges and display recent art works at a group show. In summer 2018 he visited Romania and Morocco.

Interested in finding out more? Call +509 3637 7042 to arrange a visit to Maxan’s studio.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published May 2019


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Meet the Haitian Artists from the Village of Noailles

Man walks with wheelbarrow past metal statue in Village Noailles, Haiti
Village Noailles
Photo: Franck Fontain

Meet the Metal-makers of the Artistic Village of Noailles

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In the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquet, east of Port-au-Prince, the streets echo with the clang of hammer and tong and the precise tap-tap of chisels. Follow the sound as it meanders through the paved streets, and you’ll find yourself in the artistic village of Noailles – an open plaza connecting the clattering workshops and vibrant storefronts of the city’s thriving metalwork art scene.

Mornings in the village start with the sound of artists and blacksmiths opening up their shops. The work from the day or the night before is brought back into the light, and the serious business of bargain-hunting can begin. While shoppers compete to snap up the most interesting pieces before anyone else sees them, the artists themselves often work collaboratively – you’ll see them walking in and out of each other’s workshops to put the finishing touches on collaborative artworks.

Magic leaking through the seams

The entire village of Noailles is infused with the craft of metalwork, but in some parts of town it’s less obvious. Not every artist in the village has been able to splash out on a whitewashed adobe storefront, but the industry is everywhere: for every easy-on-the-eyes gift shop that fronts onto the open plaza, there are ten humbler workshops hidden behind fences of corrugated iron or gaily painted wood.

Here in the village of Noailles, art springs to life every single morning, in every single corner. It is the origin of most metalwork you’ll see around Port-au-Prince, building on a rich tradition of creativity that was born right here.

The making of a movement

Known as Kwadèbouke in Haitian creole, the city of Croix-des-Bouquet has an interesting history. Originally a coastal city, it was moved inland after the devastating 1770 earthquake. Thanks to that act of foresight, the descendants of the 1770 survivors luckily avoided the worst of the 2010 earthquake.

The practice of metalwork in Croix-des-Bouquets started back in the 1940s. Georges Liautaud pioneered the movement by opening a blacksmith shop where he undertook basic metalwork such as repairing tools and, on occasion, creating custom crosses for the tombs of the cemetery.

A few years later Liautaud crossed paths with DeWitt Peters, an American art lover, who was the first to encourage Liautaud to explore metalwork as a form of art and to promote it in Haiti. Soon, Liautaud had more commissions for his installations and sculptures than he had time to fulfil, and a guild industry was born.

At first, Liautaud worked mostly with recycled materials – specifically, metal drums. This opened a world of creativity and various techniques that were previously unexplored, and by the 1970s, an artistic vein of metalwork had spread across the country. Its heart, however, has stayed in the village of Noailles and Croix-des-Bouquets remains the crux of metalwork in Haiti, attracting artists from around the country who want to work in this atmosphere and show off their skills to travelling art lovers.

What you’ll find here

Here you’ll find original sculptures hammered out or precision-welded from repurposed pieces of metal that began their lives as car-parts, cutlery, or wrought-iron finials. Reborn, you’ll find them as candle-holders, plates, mirror frames, large focal wall-pieces and less luggage-friendly items like practical furniture. It’s astonishing to see such a breadth of ideas and such a high level of skill produced in what seems to many strangers a rather humble birthplace.

Tucked away amongst the tumbledown streets of Croix-des-Bouquet, the artistic village of Noailles is proud to be the birthplace of metalwork as we now know it in Haiti. By buying an artwork from Noailles, you can support the local craftsmen who hone their creative trades here, and keep a memory of Haiti that will last forever and start plenty of good

Top tips

It’s best to bring gourdes with some small change, though many merchants accept American dollars. It’s also wise to plan ahead by bringing a way to take your new purchases home with you – although you’ll find plenty of pocket-size trinkets, some of the works in the village are quite impressive in size!

Remember that these artists are also businesspersons. Be prepared to haggle here just like you would for fresh produce from the farmers’ markets or the artworks sold on Champ de Mars.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019


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Uncover the Haitian Craft of Paper Mâché

Colorful paper mâché animal masks worn by participants in the carnival at Jacmel, Haiti
Paper mâché at Carnaval in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Uncover the Haitian Craft of Paper Mâché

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It is two o’clock in the afternoon, in the chief town of Haiti’s southeastern department – Jacmel. On a small square at the end of the Rue Sainte Anne, a woman with locks down to her shoulders holds a paper mache bull’s head in her left hand and a brush in her right. This is Charlotte, one of the most popular artists of the city.

The paper mâché technique, she explains, is very old. It comes from Asia. ‘With the carnival tradition inherited from Europeans, we have found the perfect pretext to improve this ancestral art, to make it a representation of the Haitian culture already rich in color.’

A few steps from where we are stands a fresco of glass of all colors. We can read the words “Fanm se poto mitan”. The artist to whom we owe this work? Charlotte. In her studio, two plaques of honor and merit salute her work. The walls and shelves are adorned with mâché roosters, oxen, cows, and objects of everyday life: a jewelry box next to a trivet, in front of a painting.

‘Haitian culture,’ Charlotte continues, ‘that’s what we artists put into it. It is not static and it is this dynamism from which it draws all its charm.’

Paper mâché artist Charlotte shows off an intricate cow mask in Jacmel, Haiti
Paper mâché artist Charlotte in Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

“Work begins a whole year before the carnival”

The art of paper mâché is to mold shapes into paper hardened beforehand with a heated starch preparation. This technique, taught at the National School of Arts, is known throughout Haiti, but it has found its greatest success here in Jacmel.

The carnival held every year in the city (around Easter) attests to the success of this practice.Transmitted from generation to generation, the technique remains the same even though artists are free to experiment with size, shape and color. Masks, decoration of all kinds, aquatic fauna, political personalities, fictional characters – everything goes. In 1993, to illustrate a debate on deforestation, Soliosso Simonis disguised himself by transforming into a mango tree made of paper mâché. Around here, you could find a life-size zebra, painted bright red, right next to a representation of Fidel Castro.

Rivaling Haiti’s national carnival, the Jacmel Carnaval draws bigger crowds every year, partly because of the paper mâché art on display. Work begins a whole year before the carnival, designing the masks that will be on show on the front of the stands, on parade floats, and not least of all in the parade itself.

Artists in Jacmel, Haiti, working on paper mâché costumes
Artists in Jacmel working on paper mâché
Photo: Franck Fontain

For many people in Jacmel, paper mâché is a way to make a living – a real economic engine for the city and its surroundings. Children are immersed in the practice from a young age, and some go on to take up apprenticeships in local artisanal workshops. Downtown, several houses have been converted into shops, galleries, and / or open workshops where visitors can see the craft up close.

Paper mâché is more than just an artistic practice. Like painting, dance, and sculpture, it has become a vehicle for the expression of Haitian culture.


Written by Melissa Beralus.

Published March 2019


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9 Instagram Accounts That’ll Make You Want to Visit Haiti

Sunset over the Caribbean sea seen from the coast of Môle-Saint-Nicolas, Haiti
Sunset, Mole-St-Nicolas
Photo: Tyler Welsh

9 Instagram Accounts That’ll Make You Want to Visit Haiti

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The cities and settlements are painted in primaries and pastels, saturated with tropical sunshine, and surrounded by white sand beaches and the crystal-clear waters of the Caribbean. Locals are down to earth and deeply attuned to the rhythms of island life.

Haiti is simply astounding, and here are nine Instagram accounts that will make you want to start planning a visit.

1. @takemeth3re

Travel and lifestyle blogger Ann-Sophie Hamilton’s account is a photographic travel guide for Haiti. A travel planner by day, Hamilton’s 3000+ followers get to see her favourite spots around Port-au-Prince and the rest of the island. Hamilton’s photos are less of a scrapbook and more of a window into her life – and a great way to travelling vicariously! If you’re looking for the first things to do once you land in Haiti, this is a great place to start!

2. Ayiti Twopikal

After just a short while in Haiti, it’s not uncommon to want to pitch in and participate, but it’s very easy to feel overwhelmed. If you want to try, support or just take a look at sustainable, small-scale gardening in Haiti, Ayiti Twopikal, run by Ida, is a great place to start. Ida shares information about which common produce is easiest to grow at home, and how you can start nurturing your green thumb, however little it may be!

3. @rivanyri

Want to get acquainted with Haitian culture before setting foot on the island? Riva Nyri Précil is a self-styled “ambassadress” of Haitian folklore, alternative culture and Vodou. Follow Riva for an up-close glimpse of rituals, festivals, folklore, humour and more than a touch of counter-cultural glamour.

4. @tchakayiti

An amazing account where you can learn more about Haitian cuisine and eat with your eyes is Annick Mégie’s page, Tchakayiti! Stunning Haitian food photography is accompanied by insightful captions, where there is almost always something to learn about the dishes featured. Annick delves into different preparations of the same ingredient, cracking open the beautiful world of Haitian cooking.

5. @theislandlife

Photographer Christina S keeps her camera by her side, and serves up her best snaps on her Instagram. What we get is a kaleidoscope of colorful beach and jungle scenes, detailed portraits of tropical birds, urban art, and the odd restaurant recommendation. Her skills are second to none but her perspective is refreshingly real, candidly capturing Haitian life at its most authentic.

6. @theexplorerjourney

Photographer Alain D. Lescouflair is one of Haiti’s undiscovered wonders. His understated – and underrated – feed is full of moody, sparse glimpses of life in the capital city of Port-au-Prince. Lescouflair employs dramatic colour and composition choices to share fleeting moments and microcosms of Haitian culture – yellow autumn leaves in a bright blue gutter, bizarre street art, rustic old doors, people waiting for the bus. Don’t miss this one.

And check out Alain’s stunning photo journal from the streets of Pétion-Ville.

7. @tazspady

An illustrator based in Port-au-Prince, Taz is best known for his art that blurs the lines between different mediums. Over photographs of popular places in Haiti, from the picturesque scenes of Cap-Haïtien to the incomparable waters of the Haitian coasts, he draws his own larger-than-life characters, breathing a new, quirky, fresh life into them.

8. @sospwablan

Haiti is known for its bright creole culture, and this is especially evident in its cuisine. Ramsay’s account is dedicated to Haitian food, from breakfast plates to delicious dinners and decadent desserts. Her photos and accompanying descriptions of home-cooked meals are a great place to find inspiration for flavors you want to try once you get to the island!

9. @growninhaiti

Grown in Haiti is as down-to-earth as it gets, literally. With a feed full of heirloom seedlings, fruit picked fresh off the tree, and happy people having wholesome fun in a permaculture garden, Grown in Haiti is a labour of love and a delight to scroll through.

The organisation, in the mountains of Jacmel, promotes reforestation and nature preservation. Curated by Sydney Etienne, the account is a refreshing take on grassroots agriculture in Haiti, and a great example of how working in and with communities can improve the lives of everyone around.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2019.


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