TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

Haiti Up Close

Meet the Locals: Travel Guide Ann-sophie Hamilton

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf

Sustainable travel guide Ann-Sophie

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Ann-Sophie Hamilton is one of the brightest Haitian voices on Instagram. Using visual storytelling, she takes her followers on adventures around Haiti, inviting us to fall in love with every facet of the island.

Based in Port-au-Prince, Ann-Sophie has established herself as a blogger, travel planner, business owner, and life coach. In 2015, she moved back to Haiti from Canada and launched her own sustainable tourism company, Mennen’m La Tours.

We asked Ann-Sophie to tell us all about her favourite places to visit in Haiti.

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf
Ann-Sophie
Photo: Ted Olivier Mompérousse
What’s the first thing we should try, do or see once we arrive in Haiti?

The first thing to do, of course, is to try the food. Good, authentic, Haitian food is a must!

The second thing, if you want to see a beautiful Haitian beach – which you most likely will, is to head to Bananier, without a doubt.

What is your favorite upscale place to eat? How about your favorite ordinary place to eat?

I have a few. I really like to eat at Le Florville. The food there is really good, and the view of the mountains is really nice. I like Portofino; it’s not really casual but not extremely fancy — somewhere in between. Quartier Latin is also a great place to grab a bite; I really love the décor. I really like eating at Haiku, as well.

Bacchus opens only late at night. It has the best goat and pork, and their fried plantains and spicy sauce are really nice. It’s a little place that you only know about if someone tells you about it. It’s clean and quite spacious.

Which city outside of Port-au-Prince is a must-see, and why?

Jacmel would be my must-see, because there’s so much to do. Each city is known for something. Petit-Goave is known for beaches. Nippes is the destination for waterfalls. Jacmel is a combination of many things: good food, good art, and they also have Bassin Bleu – which is a must visit.

Their beaches are really good for surfing, if you’re into that. In the outskirts of Jacmel, there are also a lot of plantations — awesome places to see.

What’s one place nature-lovers should absolutely see?

If you’re into nature and adventure, the hike to Seguin is a once in a lifetime experience – because some people only have the strength do it only once, but it’s so worth it! It’s a seven-hour hike from Furcy to Seguin, but when you get there, there’s a waterfall and a guest house with good food.

It’s a very challenging experience, but with a good group and healthy snacks, it’s definitely possible and an awesome attraction! Mennen’m La Tours can organize tours for people who already have a group and who would like to make it to Seguin!

Where should we go to get the best souvenirs and artworks?

In Port-au-Prince, I recommend Place St. Pierre in Pétion-Ville for paintings and other artworks, and Village de Noailles for iron artwork.

In Jacmel, there are plenty of little shops all over the city where you can get a variety of different artworks and souvenirs.

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf
Ann-Sophie
Photo: Ted Olivier Mompérousse

Interview by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2020


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Ten of the Best Books about Haiti

A woman wearing a bikini relaxes in a window holding a book
Relaxing in a window in Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

The 10 books you should read before you visit Haiti

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Did you know that in Haitian vodou, a healer and a sorcerer are two completely different things? There are so many things to learn about Haitian culture and history that sometimes, the details slip between the fingers. The best way to catch them? Get comfortable with a good book!

Planning a visit to Haiti, or just want a closer understanding of this “land with a soul”? Here are the top 10 books that explore the fascinating history and culture of Haiti.

Masters of the Dew by Jacques Roumain

For those of us who love literature, nothing replenishes our sense of self or our faith in humanity like a good novel. Speaking of humanity, Masters of the Dew by Jacques Roumain, published in 1944 just a few months before the death of its author, is a Haitian literary classic par excellence.

Masters of the Dew is a deeply powerful story of traditional life in rural Haiti, overshadowed by the natural world but illuminated by human struggles. The novel touches on the necessity for a man to confront adversities great and small, from the need for freedom and a future for an entire population, to the need for water, soil and silk. Masters of the Dew is a parable of sorts, and compelling argues that the most beautiful mathematical equation is an addition.

Roumain was deeply invested in politics, and is famous in Haiti for founding one of the nation’s most important institutions for cultural preservation, the National Bureau of Ethnology, as well as resisting American occupation and advocating for Marxism. In fact, it was only thanks to the help of Roumain’s friends in France, André Breton and Aragon (both antifascists and members of the French surrealist movement), that Masters of the Dew was able to see the light of day in France.

We can’t mention Jacques Roumain without introducing another Jacques (and another of Haiti’s great novelists) – Jacques Stephen Alexis.

General Sun, My Brother by Jacques Stephen Alexis

Son of Haitian diplomat and novelist Stephen Alexis (1889–1962), Jacques Stephen Alexis distinguished himself early in life as a brilliant writer and politician. Another outspoken Marxist and close friend of the French surrealists, Jacques Stephen Alexis was already a respected thinker when he published his debut novel, General Sun, My Brother.

The story follows the life of two Haitian laborers from the slums of Port-au-Prince to the cane fields of the Dominican Republic, where they find themselves swept up into one of the most nightmarish moments in the diplomatic history of Hispaniola: the 1937 massacre. Strongly inspired by Roumain’s Masters of the Dew, General Sun, My Brother is a call to action, a refusal of passivity.

In the Flicker of an Eyelid by Jacques Stephen Alexis

Building on the acclaim of his debut novel, In the Flicker of an Eyelid propelled Alexis to his reputation as a genius writer. Another pillar of the Haitian classical canon, In the Flicker of an Eyelid is considered the most beautiful romance novel in Haitian literature. The story begins in a bordello in Port-au-Prince, but don’t let that mislead you – more than just a love story, this novel interweaves lessons about love, doubt, politics, social consciousness, patriotism, and the passage of time.

Rires et Pleurs (Laughs and Cries) by Oswald Durand

If you’re open to poetry and get sentimental about sunsets, reach for Rires et Pleurs (Laughs and Cries)Rires et Pleurs carries in it all of the symbolic weight of a people freshly liberated and on a quest for beauty. Oswald Durand is to poetry what Alexis is to novels.

Les Cinq Lettres by Georges Castera

“It is not with ink that I write to you but with my voice of drums besieged by falling stones”

Has a man loved before like Georges Castera in Les Cinq Lettres? “Love me like a burning house” is the poet’s request in this collection, and if you love French poetry then you and Les Cinq Lettres will get on like a house on fire.

So Spoke the Uncle by Jean Price-Mars

Want to learn more about Haitian culture and identity through a sociological/scientific framework? You’ll want to start with the book that sits at the root of the largest sociocultural movement of the Caribbean and Africa: blackness. In So Spoke the Uncle, Jean Price-Mars preaches a return to Haitan cultural origins. After all, he says, how do we know where we’re going if we don’t know where we come from?

Today, So Spoke the Uncle remains a the go-to reference text for anthropologists consulting the concepts and events crucial to Haiti’s history.

The Equality of Human Races by Anténor Firmin

Long before Price-Mars, Anténor Firmin was writing The Equality of Human Races to show that there was no such thing as race and that black, white, brown, or in between, the human species is one being, united and indivisible. One of the biggest public high schools in Port-au-Prince is named after Firmin.

Peintres Haitiens by Gerard Alexis

Interested in Haitian art? Peintres Haitiens by Gerard Alexis should be right up your alley. With over 300 color reproductions and text including art theory and artists’ biographies, Alexis explores five tenements of Haitian art: portrait and historical paintings, nature and daily life, vodou mysticism and figuration-abstraction.

Voodoo: Search for the Spirit by Laennec Hurbon

And if you want to quench your curiosity for Haitian vodou, we strongly recommend Voodoo: Search for the Spirit by Laennec Hurbon. Neither in-depth study nor lighthearted foray, Voodoo: Search for the Spirit offers an excellent, accessible, practical overview of the topic, enriched by pages and pages of gorgeous full-color photos and excerpts from other literature on vodou.

Haiti: the Aftershocks of History by Laurent Dubois

“As acclaimed historian Laurent Dubois demonstrates, Haiti’s troubled present can only be understood by examining its complex past. The country’s difficulties are inextricably rooted in its founding revolution – the only successful slave revolt in the history of the world; the hostility that this rebellion generated among the surrounding colonial powers; and the intense struggle within Haiti itself to define its newfound freedom and realize its promise.” ― Macmillan

Here’s what the critics say about Haiti: the Aftershocks of History:

“Well-written, authoritative history… enriched by careful attention to what Haitian intellectuals have had to say about their country over the last two centuries.” ―The New York Times Book Review

“A sweeping, passionate history of Haiti… Smart, honest, and utterly compelling, this book is the national biography this country and its people deserve.” ―Boston Globe

“A book as welcome as it is timely: a lucid one-volume history of the nation, from Toussaint to the present, anchored in scholarship but rendered as a comprehensive-but-swift narrative for the general reader.” ―The Nation

“This excellent, engaging history seeks to strip away centuries of mocking and reductive bias. Dubois’s Haiti is a land of ceaseless activity, a ferment of suppression and insurrection exacerbated by the mercenary intrusions of foreign powers–in the past century, chiefly the United States. Dubois also traces a parallel history of bold social experiments on the part of everyday Haitians… Throughout, he makes clear how economic pressures and political crises have left even the county’s better leaders hamstrung, without downplaying their failures in fulfilling Haiti’s great promise.” ―The New Yorker

Read more critics’ reviews for Haiti: the Aftershocks of History.

Bonus:

La Belle Amour Humaine by Lyonel Trouillot

Mon Pays Que Voici by Anthony Phelps

History of Haiti by Suzy Castor. French edition (Haiti Autrement) available online here


Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

What is visiting Haiti like for Female travellers?

two haitians walking on small suspension bridge
Girl walking on bridge over Grande-Anse River
Photo: Franck Fontain

What is visiting Haiti like for female travellers?

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Vacationing alone means no compromises, more flexibility, and no one to judge you for spending your precious time in Haiti sleeping in and seeking out self-centered relaxation and bliss.

Still relatively undiscovered by mainstream tourists, Haiti offers a Caribbean experience decidedly off the beaten path. Sipping your morning cup of coffee, surrounded by cozy conversations in a blend of French and Kreyol, there’s zero chance the place will suddenly be overrun by a busload of Texan retirees or twenty-somethings on their first trip away from home.

While group trips are great ways to have memorable experiences, there is something to be said for taking a new destination by storm on your own – especially as a woman. To you we say: kudos! This one’s for you.

You might be wondering, though – what is visiting Haiti like for female solo travellers?

Haitian woman smiling in a straw hat, in Abricot
Woman in Abricot
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

What to expect

Haiti has a long, poetic past of how it views and treats women. The country’s history is incomplete without the important women who played a part in setting it free, from Taíno Indians to freed black slaves. This is illustrated clearly in the way women are viewed as the poto mitan (central pillar) of Haitian households, and Haitian society. Mother’s Day, Easter, Christmas, birthdays – any celebration is an occasion to celebrate mothers, and Haitians don’t miss them.

On an individual level, and speaking generally of course, Haitian men treat women with courtesies, compliments and – often the other side of that cultural coin – catcalling. Haitian women have learned to be a step ahead of them and curb those behaviors before they get bothersome!

In everyday life, you’ll notice that people are ready to do favours for each other, but especially so for women. There is always a helpful hand to get a seat aboard a kamyonèt zooming away; if someone is missing change for the ride, someone else will offer to top it off; there is always a kind, watchful eye – usually another woman, looking out for women in Haiti.

Woman looks out onto water while taking a water taxi in Labadee
Traveller taking a water taxi in Labadee
Photo: Anton Lau

Accommodation, food, bars and bargaining

If you plan to stay at a resort or hotel, you will find your stay to be as smooth as it would be in any other similarly-starred accommodation in another country: respectful; courteous and pleasant. If you are staying at an AirBnB or with a host, there is an added layer of care and readiness to help. If your host happens to be a woman, you’re in luck! Topics concerning women aren’t taboo, and women are quite ready to answer questions about where to get what should your period decide to compensate for “island time” by showing up early. They’ll also be happy to chat about how to deal with certain gendered experiences particular to Haiti.

It is not uncommon at all for a woman to be offered a drink at a bar. Here, the same “Spidey sense” that serves you in your home country will serve you here. While most men just want to have a dance, it is not unusual for some of them to look for more than that. If you’re not interested, a firm and definite answer makes things clear.

Walking in the streets alone is definitely feasible, as long as you keep some basic things in mind. First, make sure you know exactly where you are going! Uncertainty is detectable, and in the wrong places, can make you vulnerable. Second, if you can have a friend walk with you – man or woman, it doesn’t really matter – you are more likely to deter people approaching you. Finally, all other tips for walking in the streets of any major city still apply: make sure you have enough change on you just in case, make sure your phone is charged, and keep it all in a (preferably!) small bag which is easy for you to get a hold of but difficult for others.

When it comes to purchasing artwork or souvenirs in artisan shops or in the streets, merchants are already used to women doing most of the buying, and therefore, most of the negotiating. While being a foreigner may not play to your advantage – because merchants automatically assume that you just have more money – this should not discourage you from bargaining for that paperweight, necklace, or painting! After some conversation, most merchants soften and are ready to reach a price point comfortable for both parties.

Woman relaxes in a pool at Le Plaza Hotel, Haiti
Relaxing in the pool at Le Plaza Hotel, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

With common sense, caution and a little preparation, Haiti is a feasible destination for women travelling alone – easygoing, fun, exciting, and safe in summer and winter. Don’t let the odd guy who can’t tell the difference between courtesy and a catcall hide the fact that most Haitians are as warm and gentle as the island breeze.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2019


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9 Instagram Accounts That’ll Make You Want to Visit Haiti

Sunset over the Caribbean sea seen from the coast of Môle-Saint-Nicolas, Haiti
Sunset, Mole-St-Nicolas
Photo: Tyler Welsh

9 Instagram Accounts That’ll Make You Want to Visit Haiti

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The cities and settlements are painted in primaries and pastels, saturated with tropical sunshine, and surrounded by white sand beaches and the crystal-clear waters of the Caribbean. Locals are down to earth and deeply attuned to the rhythms of island life.

Haiti is simply astounding, and here are nine Instagram accounts that will make you want to start planning a visit.

1. @takemeth3re

Travel and lifestyle blogger Ann-Sophie Hamilton’s account is a photographic travel guide for Haiti. A travel planner by day, Hamilton’s 3000+ followers get to see her favourite spots around Port-au-Prince and the rest of the island. Hamilton’s photos are less of a scrapbook and more of a window into her life – and a great way to travelling vicariously! If you’re looking for the first things to do once you land in Haiti, this is a great place to start!

2. Ayiti Twopikal

After just a short while in Haiti, it’s not uncommon to want to pitch in and participate, but it’s very easy to feel overwhelmed. If you want to try, support or just take a look at sustainable, small-scale gardening in Haiti, Ayiti Twopikal, run by Ida, is a great place to start. Ida shares information about which common produce is easiest to grow at home, and how you can start nurturing your green thumb, however little it may be!

3. @rivanyri

Want to get acquainted with Haitian culture before setting foot on the island? Riva Nyri Précil is a self-styled “ambassadress” of Haitian folklore, alternative culture and Vodou. Follow Riva for an up-close glimpse of rituals, festivals, folklore, humour and more than a touch of counter-cultural glamour.

4. @tchakayiti

An amazing account where you can learn more about Haitian cuisine and eat with your eyes is Annick Mégie’s page, Tchakayiti! Stunning Haitian food photography is accompanied by insightful captions, where there is almost always something to learn about the dishes featured. Annick delves into different preparations of the same ingredient, cracking open the beautiful world of Haitian cooking.

5. @theislandlife

Photographer Christina S keeps her camera by her side, and serves up her best snaps on her Instagram. What we get is a kaleidoscope of colorful beach and jungle scenes, detailed portraits of tropical birds, urban art, and the odd restaurant recommendation. Her skills are second to none but her perspective is refreshingly real, candidly capturing Haitian life at its most authentic.

6. @theexplorerjourney

Photographer Alain D. Lescouflair is one of Haiti’s undiscovered wonders. His understated – and underrated – feed is full of moody, sparse glimpses of life in the capital city of Port-au-Prince. Lescouflair employs dramatic colour and composition choices to share fleeting moments and microcosms of Haitian culture – yellow autumn leaves in a bright blue gutter, bizarre street art, rustic old doors, people waiting for the bus. Don’t miss this one.

And check out Alain’s stunning photo journal from the streets of Pétion-Ville.

7. @tazspady

An illustrator based in Port-au-Prince, Taz is best known for his art that blurs the lines between different mediums. Over photographs of popular places in Haiti, from the picturesque scenes of Cap-Haïtien to the incomparable waters of the Haitian coasts, he draws his own larger-than-life characters, breathing a new, quirky, fresh life into them.

8. @sospwablan

Haiti is known for its bright creole culture, and this is especially evident in its cuisine. Ramsay’s account is dedicated to Haitian food, from breakfast plates to delicious dinners and decadent desserts. Her photos and accompanying descriptions of home-cooked meals are a great place to find inspiration for flavors you want to try once you get to the island!

9. @growninhaiti

Grown in Haiti is as down-to-earth as it gets, literally. With a feed full of heirloom seedlings, fruit picked fresh off the tree, and happy people having wholesome fun in a permaculture garden, Grown in Haiti is a labour of love and a delight to scroll through.

The organisation, in the mountains of Jacmel, promotes reforestation and nature preservation. Curated by Sydney Etienne, the account is a refreshing take on grassroots agriculture in Haiti, and a great example of how working in and with communities can improve the lives of everyone around.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2019.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Money & costs in Haiti

Two hands exchanging Haitian gourdes paper money
Haitian gourdes
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Money & costs in Haiti

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You’re standing at the carousel in the Toussaint Louverture International Airport, and your thrilling getaway in Haiti is finally about to kick off. There’s a lot to think about: did you confirm your ride to your hostel? Which restaurant did you decide on? Does that sad handle going around the carousel by itself belong on your luggage?

If you read our guide to getting to Haiti, you knew to bring USD$10 to pay the tourist fee due when you land. Nice work!

Before you rush out to meet the festive heart of the Caribbean, don’t forget to get out cash. Changing currency can be confusing, so allow us to break it down for you – you’ll be a change-chucking champion in no time!

The basics

Haiti’s currency is the Haitian gourde. You’ll often see it abbreviated as HTG or GDES – both mean the same thing. You should see prices displayed in HTG wherever you go, as the Haitian government made it law in March of 2018 that all prices in all businesses in Haiti should be reflected in HTG. This is a sign that the local economy is regaining ground, and that more and more travellers from around the world are seeking out these warmer climes.

If you do have US bills – small ones – keep some of them with you too as you can still use them in many places with a high volume of visiting customers.

There are a few bills and coins for you to get familiar with – and they’re all very colorful, which makes it fun and interesting.

Two women exchanging Haitian gourdes paper money for garlic at a street market
Haitian gourdes
Photo: Franck Fontain

Bills, bills, bills

There are two different coins and seven bills currently in use in Haiti.

The coins are:

  • 1 HTG – the physically) smaller of the two coins.
  • 5 HTG – the larger, more common coin.

The bills are:

  • 10 HTG – the smallest bill, a light, grey-ish purple.
  • 25 HTG – the vintage one! It’s the only bill still in circulation that hasn’t been redesigned.
  • 50 HTG – this pink bill features François Capois.
  • 100 HTG – the blue bill, featuring Henri Christophe on one side, and Citadelle Laferrière on the other.
  • 250 HTG – yellow and brown, this bill features Jean-Jacques Dessalines on one side, and Fort Décidé on the other.
  • 500 HTG – Haiti’s only green bill! It features Alexandre Pétion one one side, and Fort Jacques on the other.
  • 1,000 HTG – the most colorful bill, with president Hypollite on one side, and Marché Vallière on the other.

The confusing “Haitian Dollar”

Sometimes, while bargaining for artwork, or while shopping in farmers’ markets, you will hear prices discussed in “Haitian dollars” or simply “dollars.” Usually, this doesn’t mean American dollars. Confused? Not to worry!

One Haitian dollar is equal to 5 Haitian gourdes. So 20 Haitian dollars for a pile of oranges is actually 100 HTG, 10 Haitian dollars for a motorcycle ride in Pétion-Ville is actually 50 HTG, and so on.

Woman holding bills of Haitian gourdes
Haitian gourdes
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Changing money

The best place to change US dollars or any other currency to Haitian gourdes is at a bank. Their rate is fairly stable. If you are caught in a bind, supermarkets will gladly offer to change US dollars for you, as well, at a slightly higher rate.

How much for…?

Here’s the thing about shopping – for anything – in Haiti: there aren’t really any prices set in stone. The items that do have a set price are either extremely affordable, or ridiculously expensive.

When it comes to the basics, like food and drinks, it will depend on where you go. Supermarket prices tend to vary, but stay in the same range. A large 2-liter bottle of Coca-Cola might only vary by 15 to 25 HTG at three different supermarkets. If you’re going to the farmers’ markets, you can expect more standard prices there. A large mamit (an empty tin of tomato paste used as a measuring tool) of dry, white rice will most likely be the same price from six different vendors in the same market.

You can expect to pay around 125 HTG for a large (1.5 liter) bottle of water, about the same for a bottle of imported beer, and around 400 HTG for a mid-range bottle of wine.

When dining out, expect to pay about 70 HTG for a soda, 220 HTG for a coffee, and 600 HTG for a meal.

For things like transportation, costs depend on two things: the first is where you’re going, and the second is the price of gasoline that day. If there has been a recent gas price increase, transportation costs usually bear the brunt of that. To avoid surprises and ensure you carry enough change, it’s good to speak to a local and jot down the current prices for any destinations you may have during your stay.

Things like arts and crafts seen in the streets come with wiggle room for haggling. In some tourist destinations, the salespeople can be pretty forward – take your time to get a sense of what things are worth. If you are in Pétion-Ville by Place Saint-Pierre or at Champ-de-Mars, you will be blinded by walls of paintings stretching as far as the eye can see, and the artists there are more understanding and will generally settle on a decent price that works for both parties.

It’s good to have a local with you during these haggling sessions, because they may be more informed about the general cost of things in a specific area.

With this comprehensive beginners’ lesson, we hope you’ll have a smoother time navigating Haiti and all the beauty it has to offer – and get the most for your gourde!

Colorfully-painted paper mache animals lined up on a shelf
Artisan gift shop in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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Fiercely independent – Haiti has attitude

Black and white portrait photograph of an old Haitian woman

Fiercely independent: Haiti has attitude

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18th century Haiti, or Hispaniola as it was named then. It’s a colony of France, and it’s the most prosperous and fruitful colony in the entire Caribbean, supplying France and Europe with coffee, sugar and many other goods – harvested and produced with slave labor.

For slaves, days have no end; they begin and end each day’s labor in the torture of knowing they are and forever will be slaves. Across the island, things are getting tense. Revolution is brewing.

From centuries of slavery has come a kind of fire – slow-burning, but extremely intense – and it lives in the stomach of every single slave on the island; man, woman and child. Risking life and limb, oppressed Haitians hold hushed meetings, organise illicit nighttime reunions, and some escape to the mountains.

People gather around for a Vodou ceremony inside a Haitian Vodou temple in Petavie
Vodou ceremony at Ti Papa’s vodou temple in Petavie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Vodou visions of freedom

On the night of August 14, 1791, at Bois Caïman, one event pulls on the last thread holding colonial rule together. A Vodou ceremony gives birth to a concrete plan that will irrevocably change life on the island. In a spirit of revolution, of community, and of kinship, the slaves who reunited that night catalyzed an insurrection that spanned several days. The Northern Plain was set ablaze, and freed slaves retaliated against their former slave owners.

This was the seed of the Haitian revolution that culminated in 1804, with slave rebels taking their freedom once and for all.

Haiti is the only place in the Caribbean where an enslaved class successfully fought off and ousted their oppressors. This victory would not have been possible without the determination, community, and the will to try and fail and try again. And the spirit that enabled Haitians to fight for their birthright of freedom is still alive today.

If everything you know about Haiti so far has come from news reports, you’re missing so much of the picture. While the 2010 earthquake was truly disastrous, and Haiti’s young democracy still has its troubles, the average Haitian’s reality is very different.

Four young fishermen in Baradères, Haiti
Fishermen in Baradères
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

“Here, the early bird gets the coffee”

Take a stroll anywhere in Port-au-Prince, or even in Jacmel, or Cap-Haïtien. Haitians rise with the sun – because they know that every day is a new chance to do better than they did the day before. Here, the early bird gets the worm, the coffee, and the morning laughs around the merchant serving up bananas and boiled eggs.

You’ll see Haitians eating breakfast on their front porch, in front of their office, or on the tap tap – there is no rest for the driven.

Under the harsh morning sun, bare-chested young men pull giant makeshift wooden wheelbarrows loaded with bags of charcoal. The muscles in their arms and chest strain as they push tirelessly – there’s only one way to stop, and that’s to get to where they’re going.

Midday. It’s time for lunch for most – or for the second shift, job, or side-hustle. The fire that lit up the revolution of 1804 is still alive, pushing people to survive and thrive. There are better days ahead, but we have to live to see them.

“A testament to the power of overcoming the unknown”

For Haitians, this isn’t just a daily mantra, it’s a year-round mindset that feeds into the ebbs and flows of island life. Perhaps the best illustration of this is the annual carnival season.

For many Haitians, the turn of the year is associated with financial difficulties and cloudy horizons. “We know what we have, but not what’s out there.” Carnival, which spans the months of February and March, is a testament to the power of overcoming the unknown.

Passion comes through everything Haitians do. It’s in the young men selling water in the streets. It’s in the late night laughter of people sitting at a bar by the side of the street. It’s in the mornings, noons, and nights of hustlers, of move-makers, of mothers leading households on their own, of families in the provinces, and of spirits young and old.

Haiti speaks purpose; do you?


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel