Haiti Up Close

Great Haitian Charities to Support (and Those to Avoid!)

February 21, 2025 by admin

haitian boy holding a red heart carved in limestone, enscribed haïti — Franklin in Kabik, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Great Haitian Charities to Support (and Those to Avoid!)

Whether you’re donating from a distance or only able to visit the project site briefly, it’s difficult to see what is (or isn’t) happening with your support. Here is a list of Haitian organizations you can support in good faith—and those you should avoid.

Don’t be misled

Recognisable charity names can be assuring, but sometimes the biggest and most established organisations are the ones with the worst track record of squandering donations to cover inflated administration costs and failing to effectively turn your dollars into genuine, on-ground change.

For over a decade, Haiti has been seen as a destination for altruism, with volunteers and donors hoping to support communities recovering from the devastating 2010 earthquake. Despite good intentions, hundreds of millions of dollars have been mismanaged, wasted, or funneled into ineffective projects that did little to help Haitians themselves.

The American Red Cross
After years of warnings from the Haitian community, a ProPublica and NPR investigation exposed how the American Red Cross misrepresented its work in Haiti. The organization raised nearly half a billion dollars for earthquake relief but built only six permanent homes—while pouring money into vague administrative costs. Well-meaning donors trusted ARC to deliver results, but instead, desperately needed funds never made it to local organizations that could have used them more effectively.

Oxfam
In one of the biggest humanitarian scandals in recent history, Oxfam aid workers were found to have exploited vulnerable Haitian women in the aftermath of the earthquake. Senior staff members hired sex workers—including minors—while on a relief mission, abusing their positions of power. When these reports surfaced, Oxfam initially tried to cover it up, and only later admitted to massive failures in oversight. The scandal led to a global reckoning on accountability in aid work, but for many in Haiti, the damage was already done.

The Orphanage Industry
Donating to orphanages might seem like a noble cause, but Haiti’s orphanage system is riddled with exploitation. Shockingly, 80% of children living in Haitian orphanages have at least one living parent. Many families are tricked into giving up their children, lured by false promises of education and care. Instead, orphanages operate as money-making ventures, using children to attract foreign donations while neglecting their well-being. Reports have uncovered child trafficking, abuse, and severe neglect in many of these institutions.

Where Does the Money Go?
Even when charities aren’t engaged in outright abuse, the structure of foreign aid itself is deeply flawed. A look at USAID spending in Haiti found that only 7.6% of funds actually went to local organizations. The majority of aid money never reaches Haiti at all—it gets funneled through international contractors, overhead costs, and foreign NGOs, many of whom operate with little transparency or local input.

So Who Can You Trust?

Which charities are credible? Are there any on-the-ground volunteer projects where visitors can actually make a difference?

The key is to look beyond big names and flashy fundraising campaigns. Supporting Haitian-run organizations—the ones working directly with their communities, without bloated overhead or foreign decision-makers—ensures your money is actually making an impact.

Want to give to Haiti? Do your research, follow the lead of Haitians themselves, and make sure your support goes where it’s truly needed.

three haitian boys on bmx bikes — Boys on bikes, Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Haitian-Founded Organizations You Can Support With Confidence

Fortunately, there are many incredible Haitian-led initiatives working tirelessly to bring real, lasting change. These organizations are founded and run by Haitians who deeply understand the needs of their own communities—they have proven track records, transparent operations, and most importantly, a commitment to solutions that truly empower people on the ground.

Whether in education, healthcare, environmental sustainability, or economic development, these Haitian-founded and led organizations are doing the work that foreign aid often fails to accomplish. By supporting them, you’re not just donating—you’re investing in Haiti’s future on Haitian terms.

Fonkoze

Founded in 1994 Fonkoze is Haiti’s largest microfinance institution, dedicated to empowering rural communities—especially women—through financial services and education. By providing access to microloans, savings accounts, and financial literacy programs, Fonkoze helps entrepreneurs start and grow businesses, lifting families out of poverty.

Beyond microfinance, Fonkoze runs Chemen Lavi Miyò (Pathway to a Better Life)—a pioneering program designed to support Haiti’s most vulnerable women. Through a combination of cash stipends, food support, healthcare, and business training, participants gain the skills and resources to achieve financial independence.

With a strong commitment to women’s empowerment and community-driven solutions, Fonkoze continues to be a leader in breaking cycles of poverty and fostering long-term economic resilience in Haiti.

Support financial independence for Haitian women at fonkoze.org

The CHF Foundation

For over 32 years, The Centre Hospitalier de Fontaine Foundation (CHFF) has been a lifeline for communities in Cité-Soleil, one of Haiti’s most densely populated and underserved areas, often marked by extreme poverty and limited access to basic services. Founded by Jose Ulysse in 1991 and now led by Kareen Ulysse, CHFF operates with the guiding principle of serving where others don’t, when others can’t.

At the heart of its mission is the Centre Hospitalier de Fontaine (CHF), the only 24/7 medical facility in Cité-Soleil, providing life-saving care, maternal health services, and emergency treatment to thousands of residents. CHFF also runs Ecole Mixte Petit Coeur de Jesus, a school that offers education and daily meals to children, and CFPTF College, a vocational training program designed to equip young people with marketable skills and job opportunities.

Through its community-driven approach, CHFF is working to break cycles of poverty by ensuring access to healthcare, education, and economic opportunities for those who need them most.

Help CHFF bring healthcare and education to Cité-Soleil at chffoundation.com

P4H Global

P4H Global (Partners for Haiti) is a Haitian-led nonprofit organization dedicated to transforming education in Haiti through sustainable, locally driven teacher training programs. Rather than relying on short-term solutions, P4H Global focuses on equipping Haitian educators with the knowledge and skills needed to create lasting change in the country’s education system.

Founded with the belief that education is the key to breaking cycles of poverty, P4H Global works directly with schools and communities to empower teachers and improve learning outcomes across Haiti. Under the leadership of Dr. Bertrhude Albert, the organization has trained thousands of educators, reinforcing a model of self-sufficiency, excellence, and innovation in Haitian education.

Be part of the change in Haitian education at p4hglobal.org

FOKAL

Founded in 1995, Fondasyon Konesans Ak Libète (Foundation for Knowledge and Liberty)—better known as FOKAL—is a leading Haitian foundation committed to empowering local communities through education, economic development, and advocacy.

FOKAL supports smallholder farmers’ associations, grassroots women’s organizations, and ethical local enterprises—the true first responders in times of crisis and the strongest agents of grassroots resilience, self-care communities, local advocacy, and economic recovery. By investing in these Haitian-led initiatives, FOKAL fosters long-term, community-driven change rather than short-term aid dependency.

Support FOKAL’s mission by donating directly here.

Learn more at fokal.org

Grown in Haiti

In the mountains of Cap Rouge near Jacmel, Grown in Haiti is a sustainable, community-driven reforestation initiative founded in 2014 by Sidney-Max Etienne. In a country where deforestation and poverty are deeply interconnected, planting trees isn’t just about restoring the environment—it’s about empowering local communities with long-term resources and economic opportunities.

You can contribute by donating directly via the Grown in Haiti website. For those eager to take a hands-on approach, motivated volunteers are welcome to help maintain plant nurseries, share knowledge, and build community-driven skills that ensure lasting impact.

Get involved and donate at growninhaiti.com

Haiti Communitere

Located in Clercine, Port-au-Prince, Haiti Communitere is a dynamic community resource center that provides vital support to both local grassroots initiatives and international organizations. By offering resources, guidance, and sustainable working models, Haiti Communitere empowers small organizations to launch and expand their projects in a challenging environment.

Beyond its role as a support hub, Haiti Communitere has also led its own impactful initiatives across various fields, including language education, sexual health, and community development. Its primary mission is to foster locally driven solutions, ensuring that Haitian-led projects have the tools and space they need to thrive.

Get involved at haiticommunitere.org

Haiti Ocean Project

Based in Petite-Rivière-de-Nippes, Haiti Ocean Project is dedicated to the preservation and protection of marine life, including sea turtles, sharks, and rays. Operating in both Petite-Rivière and Grand Boucan, the organization not only works to safeguard Haiti’s rich marine biodiversity but also focuses on community education and sustainable fishing practices.

By raising awareness and promoting conservation efforts, Haiti Ocean Project empowers local fishers and young Haitians to become active stewards of their coastal environment, ensuring that Haiti’s marine ecosystems thrive for generations to come.

Learn more and donate here: haitioceanproject.com

Ayiti Community Trust

Ayiti Community Trust (ACT) is Haiti’s first and only community foundation, dedicated to fostering long-term, Haitian-led development rather than short-term aid. By focusing on civic education, environmental sustainability, and entrepreneurship, ACT supports local solutions that empower communities to create lasting change.

What makes ACT unique is its endowment model, which gathers resources from Haitians in Haiti, the diaspora, and global allies. Instead of relying on temporary relief efforts, ACT invests in grassroots organizations and local leaders, ensuring that change comes from within and is built to last.

Through its grant-making and advocacy, ACT is shifting the narrative around Haiti—moving away from dependency and toward self-sufficiency and long-term progress.

Be part of this movement for lasting change at ayiticommunitytrust.org

One of the Best Ways to Help Haiti? Visit and Support Local Businesses!

If you have the opportunity to visit Haiti, you’ll gain firsthand insight into the country’s realities and be in a stronger position to make informed decisions about how to contribute.

One of the most effective ways to support Haitian communities is through ethical tourism—spending your travel dollars directly with locally owned businesses. From staying at Haitian-run guesthouses to dining at family-owned restaurants and buying handmade crafts from local artisans, your presence can have a direct and positive impact on the economy.

Tourism provides a sustainable way to foster economic growth, empowering local communities where international aid has often fallen short. The cost of living allows for affordable travel while still enabling you to tip generously and support small businesses, ensuring your money stays within the community.

If you visit, make it count: stay, eat, explore, and celebrate Haiti with the people who call it home. And while you’re here, keep an eye out for Haitian-led organizations doing transformative work that deserves our collective support. Supporting local businesses and initiatives is one of the best ways to contribute to the development of this fiercely independent nation.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2020.

Updated Fabruary 2025.

Top things to see in Haiti

From Mermaids to Lougawou: Uncover Haitian Folklore

January 8, 2025 by Anton Lau

Vodou practitioner
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Between Sea and Shadow: The Lore of Haitian Mermaids & Lougawou

Journey through Haitian folklore, where the mysterious lougawou and mesmerizing Haitian mermaids bring myths to life

“Krik…! Tim tim…!”

When you hear this captivating call from a Haitian storyteller, prepare to be transported into an incredible world, alive with imagination and steeped in legends. The richness and depth of Haitian tales will surely astonish you. Traditionally narrated around a tree at dusk, in the cozy backdrop of a yard, these stories breathe life into extraordinary characters right before our eyes.

Haitian folklore, an oral tradition at heart, acts as a cultural bridge between generations. It’s a communal experience where the young and old gather to revisit beloved stories, blending magical creatures, historical figures, animals, and mythical places. Through these tales, elders pass down wisdom and life lessons, embedding characters from these narratives into the Haitian collective consciousness as living myths.

So, stay glued to your screen as we dive into the universe of Haitian folklore legends, introducing you to beings like the enchanting Haitian mermaid, the mysterious Maître Minuit, or the legendary lougawou. Be prepared for a journey through a culture where the boundary between the real and the imaginary is as delicate as a veil.

A Haitian mermaid
Illustration: Corine Bond

1. Unveiling the Mystery of the Haitian Mermaid

Meet the mesmerizing La Sirene or Haitian Mermaid, a captivating blend of deity and legend. Revered in Vodou as a potent spirit, she rules the ocean’s depths with her consort, Agwe. Keeper of the sea’s treasures, her allure lies in the mystery and power she wields, making her an object of reverence and caution.

A visit to the island’s shores might reveal why locals leave their gold at home; to wear it is to offer it directly to the Haitian mermaid, who’s known for not needing an invitation to claim what catches her eye.

Few have glimpsed this majestic being, with her flowing hair, by the water’s edge. Her song, a melody that binds the soul, has lured countless into her watery realm, only to return them enriched with the sea’s bounties as they age.

For those daring enough, capturing her golden comb during her seaside repose might earn you a visit in your dreams, where she’s ready to bargain its return for a treasure.

Haitian rainbow
Illustration: Corine Bond

2. A Haitian Rainbow Is More Than Meets the Eye

When you think of a rainbow, you probably picture the beautiful arc of colors in the sky, a simple yet mesmerizing optical phenomenon. Yet, dive into Haitian folklore, and you’ll discover that a rainbow is not just a rainbow. Here, in Haiti a rainbow is actually a colossal serpent, quenching its thirst in the sea after a rainfall.

In Vodou tradition, the rainbow is closely intertwined with the goddess Ayida and her consort, Dambala, the divine pair known for their roles in creation and wisdom. The elders tell tales of how capturing the rainbow’s ‘bonnet’—during a moment of distraction as it drinks from the sea—can make you a fortune, similar to the enchanting narratives about the Haitian Mermaid.

Bouki & Ti Malice
Illustration: Corine Bond

3. Bouki and Ti Malice, The Dynamic Duo of Haitian Folklore

If you pride yourself on being a bit of a trickster, wait until you hear about Bouki and Ti Malice. These two are the embodiment of “thick as thieves,” proving that no evening of tales under the Haitian stars is complete without their shenanigans.

Ti Malice, the name gives it away, doesn’t it? He’s the mastermind of mischief, always a step ahead with a prank up his sleeve. Bouki, his loyal companion, often finds himself on the bumbling end of these escapades, earning the title of the loveable fool. In Haiti Creole, being called a Bouki is akin to being dubbed the class clown – it’s all in good fun, but you might want to check for whoopee cushions before you sit down.

Their stories aren’t just for laughs; they’re stitched into the fabric of Haitian education. From classroom lessons to bedtime stories, the adventures of Bouki and Ti Malice teach valuable lessons wrapped in humor and wit, making them unforgettable characters in Haitian folklore.

4. Mèt Minwi: The Giant of Haitian Nights

As night falls, tread carefully, for Mèt Minwi (the Master of Midnight) watches over the crossroads. Haitian folklore is a tapestry woven with magic and chilling tales, among which Mèt Minwi stands tall—literally. This enigmatic figure, so tall his head is lost in the clouds, has been the subject of whispers among those who claim to have seen him blocking paths in the dead of night.

A guardian or a specter, his origins are as mysterious as his motives. Yet, the stories agree on one thing: Mèt Minwi’s towering presence is enough to deter the most daring from their nocturnal wanderings. How he came to be a fixture of Haitian folklore’s horror stories is anyone’s guess, but his legend keeps the adventurous well away from crossroads after dark.

Haitian zombie
Illustration: Corine Bond

5. Zombies

Zombies may sound like Hollywood’s favorite horror trope, but in Haiti, they’re part of a much deeper story. Since the U.S. marines set foot in Haiti in during the 1915 occupation, the world’s been captivated by tales of Haitian zombies, sparking imaginations and even movie plots. But let’s get one thing straight: Hollywood’s undead have little in common with the real deal in Haitian folklore.

In the heart of Haitian culture, a zombie isn’t just a walking dead. It’s more about the spirit than the flesh. These zombies are living people under the influence of a powerful sorcerer who’s nabbed their spirit, not brain-hungry ghouls rising from graves. The real fear? Not getting munched on by a zombie, but the chilling thought that a sorcerer might snatch your spirit away and enslave you.

So next time you’re watching a zombie flick, remember: In Haiti, zombies are not about the horror of the undead, but the power of the unseen, and the battle for one’s spirit.

6. Beware of the Lougawou

Ever stumbled upon the term lougawou? Coming from the French expression loup–garou (meaning werewolf) though the Haitian lougawou is not the kind you see in movies, all fangs and fur under the full moon. By day, a lougawou blends in with everyone else, but as night falls, they transform, not into a typical wolf, but into a feathered creature that takes to the skies in search of… well, let’s just say you wouldn’t want to be on their itinerary.

In Haiti, it’s said every neighborhood has its lougawou, often an unsuspecting elderly woman by day. These stories aren’t just to scare kids; they’re a cherished part of Haitian folklore, blending the lines between the real and the mystical.

Now, you might be thinking, ‘How do you keep a flying lougawou at bay?’ Glad you asked! It’s simple – cedar trees. That’s right, planting cedar trees around your yard (or lakou as we say here) is the traditional lougawou repellent. Apparently, they can’t stand the scent.

Additionally, the Haitian cultural tradition of beny chans, a herbal bath believed to offer protection and good luck, is especially used to safeguard kids from being taken by lougawous.

If this article sparked your curiosity and you’d like to dive deeper into the magic of Haitian folklore, here are some recommendations:

“Tell My Horse” by Zora Neale Hurston offers an enlightening exploration of Haitian spirituality and mysticism, blending first-hand experiences with captivating storytelling. It’s also one of our top picks for understanding Haitian Vodou. Discover more of our favorite books about Haitian Vodou here.
Haitian Carnival (or kanaval in Kreyol) is an annual celebration deeply rooted in the island’s folklore. From fantastical costumes to legendary characters, it’s a feast for the senses. Meet the colorful characters of Jacmel Carnival in our guide here.
Are zombies real? Far removed from Hollywood depictions, the mythology of these fascinating yet misunderstood creatures was shaped by deep-rooted beliefs and the trauma of slavery. Read the true story of Haitian zombies here.
Also, check out Corine B, the talented Haitian artist who created the stunning illustrations for this article. Find her on Instagram here.

Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2024

Top things to see in Haiti

Money & Costs in Haiti

December 9, 2024 by Editor

Two hands exchanging Haitian gourdes paper money — Haitian gourdes
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Money & Costs in Haiti

Where can you change money in Haiti? How much is a bottle of beer, a burger or a bus trip? Find out here!

You’re standing at the carousel in the Toussaint Louverture International Airport, and your thrilling getaway in Haiti is finally about to kick off. There’s a lot to think about: did you confirm your ride to your hotel? Which restaurant did you decide on? Does that sad handle going around the carousel by itself belong on your luggage?

If you read our guide to getting to Haiti, you knew to bring USD$10 to pay the tourist fee due when you land. Nice work!

Before you head out to explore the festive heart of the Caribbean, make sure to get some cash in hand. Managing currency in Haiti can be tricky, but don’t worry—we’ve got you covered. From understanding the Haitian gourde to finding the best exchange rates, we’ll help you navigate money matters like a pro.

Haitian Currency: What You Need to Know

Haiti’s official currency is the Haitian gourde (HTG), often abbreviated as HTG or GDES. Both terms refer to the same currency, and since March 2018, the Central Bank of Haiti has required all businesses to display prices in HTG. This regulation ensures clarity for locals and travelers alike and reflects efforts to stabilize the local economy.

While HTG is the standard, U.S. dollars are still widely accepted, particularly in areas frequented by tourists, like Cap-Haïtien and Jacmel. Carrying smaller denominations, such as $1, $5, or $10 bills, is especially handy for tipping, transportation, or smaller transactions. Just remember that using HTG often gets you better value, as vendors may apply less favorable exchange rates for USD.

The currency itself is a colorful introduction to Haiti’s culture. Haitian bills range from 10 HTG to 1,000 HTG and feature notable figures and landmarks. Coins exist but are rarely used in daily transactions, making bills your go-to for most purchases. If you’re new to the gourde, familiarizing yourself with its denominations can make your transactions smoother and more enjoyable.

Two women exchanging Haitian gourdes paper money for garlic at a street market — Haitian gourdes
Photo: Franck Fontain

Bills, Bills, Bills

In Haiti, you’ll encounter a mix of coins and bills, each with its own design that reflects the nation’s rich history and culture. Here’s what you need to know about the currency currently in circulation:

Coins

1 HTG – The smaller of the two coins, though it’s not commonly used.
5 HTG – The larger and more frequently encountered coin.

The bills are:

10 HTG – The smallest bill, light grayish-purple in color, featuring Fort Cap Rouge (Fort Ogé) on its design.
25 HTG – A “vintage” design that hasn’t been updated, making it unique among Haitian bills.
50 HTG – Pink, featuring François Capois, a hero of Haitian independence.
100 HTG – Blue, showcasing Henri Christophe on one side and the iconic Citadelle Henri on the other.
250 HTG – Yellow and brown, highlighting Jean-Jacques Dessalines and Fort Décidé.
500 HTG – Haiti’s only green bill, featuring Alexandre Pétion and Fort Jacques.
1,000 HTG – The most colorful bill, with President Florvil Hyppolite on one side and Marché Vallière on the other.

The confusing “Haitian Dollar”
While shopping at markets or negotiating prices, you may hear references to “Haitian dollars” or simply “dollars.” Don’t be confused—this usually doesn’t mean U.S. dollars.

In Haiti, one Haitian dollar equals 5 Haitian gourdes. Here’s how it works:

20 Haitian dollars for a pile of oranges equals 100 HTG.
50 Haitian dollars for a motorcycle ride in Pétion-Ville equals 250 HTG.

For clarity, always confirm whether prices are in Haitian gourdes or Haitian dollars when negotiating or making purchases.

Woman holding bills of Haitian gourdes — Haitian gourdes
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Changing Money

The most reliable place to exchange U.S. dollars or other currencies into Haitian gourdes is at a bank, where you’ll find stable exchange rates and a secure environment. Banks generally offer the best rates, but they may have limited hours or require some patience due to wait times.

If you’re in a pinch, supermarkets are a convenient alternative. Many will gladly exchange U.S. dollars, but keep in mind that their rates are often slightly higher than those at banks. While this option is quick and easy, it’s best used for smaller amounts.

Using ATMs and Credit Cards in Haiti

Credit cards are your best friend for avoiding the hassles of currency exchange in Haiti. They’re widely accepted at hotels, major restaurants, and supermarkets, making them a convenient alternative to cash. By using your card, you’ll carry less cash and often get a better exchange rate. However, keep an eye out for places that offer dual-currency billing, as their exchange rates may be higher than the official market rate.

ATMs, on the other hand, can be less reliable. You won’t be able to withdraw foreign currencies, and some machines may run out of cash. For a safer experience, stick to ATMs in secure locations, such as your hotel or larger supermarkets, to avoid unnecessary risks.

So How Much Does Things Cost in Haiti?

Here’s the thing about shopping – for anything – in Haiti: there aren’t really any prices set in stone. The items that do have a set price are either extremely affordable, or ridiculously expensive.

Food and Drinks

In supermarkets, prices for basics like a 2-liter bottle of Coca-Cola usually vary by only 15–25 HTG between stores.
At farmers’ markets, you’ll find more consistent pricing. For example, a large mamit of dry white rice (measured using a repurposed tomato paste tin) is typically priced the same across vendors.

Dining Out
If you’re eating at restaurants:

A soda costs about 70 HTG.
A coffee will set you back 660 HTG.
1,500 HTG for a meal at a mid-range restaurant.

Transportation
Transportation costs in Haiti depend heavily on your destination and fluctuating gas prices. A sudden increase in fuel costs can significantly impact fares. To avoid surprises and ensure you have enough small bills for change, it’s always a good idea to ask a local about current rates.

For a deeper dive into navigating Haiti’s public transportation system, including tap-taps, moto-taxis, and buses, check out our guide: Getting Around Haiti.

Shopping for Arts and Crafts
Haggling is part of the experience when buying arts and crafts from street vendors. In tourist areas like Pétion-Ville’s Place Saint-Pierre or Cap-Haïtien, you’ll find colorful walls of paintings and handmade items. Artists are generally fair and willing to negotiate, but it’s always helpful to have a local guide who knows the typical prices.

Pro Tip for Navigating Costs

Local Insight is Key: Whether shopping, haggling, or taking public transport, a local companion can provide invaluable advice on fair pricing.
Be Prepared: Carry small bills and coins to make transactions smoother and avoid overpaying.

With these tips, you’ll be ready to explore Haiti, enjoy its beauty, and make the most of your budget—ensuring you get the best value for your gourde!

Colorfully-painted paper mache animals lined up on a shelf — Artisan gift shop in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018.
Updated December 2024.

Top things to see in Haiti

Meet the Locals: Visionary Za Shows You Cap-Haïtien’s Best Spots

November 27, 2024 by Anton Lau

Za in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

How To Spend A Saturday In Cap-Haïtien, According To Okap Native Za

Discover Cap-Haïtien beyond tourist traps with the best local guide, Agnès Jean Bernard aka Za

So, you think you know Haiti? You’ve got the independence date down, can list off the traditional dishes, name drop the big cities, and even pinpoint Haiti on a map. But here’s the real test: can you connect with the locals? That’s where the true magic of Haiti comes alive, especially in the colorful streets of Cap-Haïtien. And guess what? We’ve got the perfect insider for you: Agnès Jean Bernard, better known as Za.

Za isn’t just any guide; she’s a Cap-Haïtien native with a deep love for photography and a knack for travel. She’s turned her Instagram profile into a love letter to this city, all while diving into her studies in tourism and hospitality.

Want to see Cap-Haïtien through the eyes of someone who adores it? Follow us as we tag along with Za for a day, exploring every nook and cranny of her hometown. Our adventure kicks off at the city’s gateway, where the sea breeze leads us to Za’s first love: the bustling Boulevard.

Where should we start if we have one day to discover the city of Cap-Haitien?

Oh, you have to start with the Boulevard of Cap-Haïtien (or Boulva Okap as it’s known to the locals). It’s this amazing stretch from 5th all the way to 90th Street, and it’s lined with all the city’s cool spots. Cap Déli for a bite, Boukanye for a chill, Potiwa Pizzeria when you’re craving a slice, Lakay Bar Restaurant for the vibes, and Gwòg… well, you’ll see.

Za on the Boulevard of Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

When is the best time to go down there?

Definitely on Sundays. It’s like the whole city comes alive in a different way. Families, friends, everyone’s out and about, just soaking in the day. The boulevard is the heart of it all. I mean, I learned to drive a motorcycle there, dodging between the stalls and the laughter. But really, it’s the street vendors that pull me back. They’ve got this warmth, you know? Always ready with a smile or a kind word – it’s just how we do things here in Okap.

And let me tell you, those smiles and hellos – they’re golden around here. It’s like, in Cap-Haïtien, we’re all about making everyone feel right at home.

Strolling down the boulevard with Za, we take a detour up an alley, heading towards the center of the city. There, standing tall and proud, is a building you can’t miss no matter where you are in the city.

What’s our next stop?

We’re diving into the city’s heart, hitting the most romantic spot in Cap-Haïtien. It’s seen countless couples come and go, and been the backdrop to a million dates. Trust me, it’s got a vibe you can’t ignore.

As we walk closer, the building’s grandeur comes into full view.

This is a cathedral, isn’t it?

Yep, that’s the one. It’s more than just a building; it’s a piece of us, a testament to the resilience of the Haitian spirit. Despite facing numerous challenges over the years, it has been lovingly restored and stands as proudly today as it did when it was rebuilt in 1942.

church cathedral in cap-haitien, haiti — The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

And that spot over there?

Ah, that’s Place Notre Dame. The place I was gushing about. If you’re anything like me, a hopeless romantic, this place will capture your heart with its undeniable charm.

Just a jump from the majestic doors of Notre Dame Cathedral, and we find ourselves in the square that shares its name. It’s easy to see why Za’s so taken with it.

So, what’s the story with this square?

Place Notre Dame, or Place d’Armes as the old-timers say, has seen its fair share of history, from military parades to darker times. But today, it’s got a different vibe. There’s this statue of Emperor Jean-Jacques Dessalines, right in the middle, looking fierce with the Independence Act in one hand and our flag in the other. And now, this place is all about life and culture, hosting everything from music gigs to art shows.

You hang out here a lot?

For sure. It’s like my second home. Catch me here on a lazy afternoon, just chilling with a fresco ice pop. Speaking of which, ready for the next adventure? It’s market time!

We zigzag through the streets, leaving the grandeur of the cathedral behind, and soon, we’re squeezing into a three-wheeled tuk-tuk taxi, buzzing with excitement. Before we know it, we’re stepping out into the busy artisanal market.

Za at market street
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

This place is buzzing! What’s it all about?

Welcome to 23rd street, the epicenter of Okap’s craft scene. This place is a treasure trove – ironwork, pottery, mahogany sculptures, you name it. It’s like a crash course in Haitian creativity. Even if you’re not shopping, just soaking in the artistry is a treat.

This is my personal recommendation. Don’t miss the handcrafted goods. It’s amazing what folks can do with beads, leather, and wood. Seriously, take a moment to check them out.

After wandering the market and marveling at the craftsmanship, Za’s got another idea. “Let’s take the scenic route,” she says, plotting a path that’ll take us from the historic battlegrounds of Vertières to the vibrant iron market, with stops at the forts along the way.

If your time in Okap is limited, Vertières is non-negotiable. It’s where the Indigenous Army turned the tide against Rochambeau’s French colonial forces, a pivotal moment in our fight for freedom. There’s a monument there, put up in 1953 to mark our independence’s 150th anniversary. It’s got six of our heroes standing tall. It’s a powerful site, especially for anyone interested in Haitian history. And every November 18th, we throw a parade there to remember the battle.

So, is that the only piece of history we’ve got in Cap-Haïtien?

Oh, not by a long shot! You’ve got to check out Fort Picolet, just a bit west of the city. Built way back in 1739, this fort has seen it all. Just follow the coastline, and you’re in for some stunning views of the Bay of Cap-Haïtien. The old walls and cannons there have stories to tell about the city’s past, especially during those colonial wars. It’s the perfect side trip when you’re exploring downtown, and you can easily do it in a day.

I also recommend Fort Saint Joseph, which was recently restored. It’s part of the old defense network, along with Fort-Magny and Picolet, that guarded the northeast of Cap-Français as the city was called back then. Fort Saint Joseph is easily accessible and you’ll pass by it if you’re going to Fort Picolet.

As the day winds down, we’re chilling by the entrance to the city, waiting for our ride to the seaside to cap off the evening.

Za at Marché Cluny, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Got any last gems for us?

You can’t leave without visiting the Iron Market, or Marché Cluny as the locals call it. It’s located over at 10 Cluny Square and architecturally it’s very similar to the iconic Marché en Fer in Port-au-Prince. It dates back to the 19th century when it was a slave market, but now it’s a bustling spot where you can find pretty much anything, from snacks to souvenirs. Hit it up on Tuesdays or Saturdays. That’s when the place really comes alive. Trust me, it’s the best time to soak in the crowded market vibes.

Hanging by the seaside, Za keeps us hooked with tales of the city and its rich tapestry of history. And if you’re wondering where to grab a bite in Cap-Haitien, Za’s got a list of must-tries. Check out our other article for all the details.

Za on moto in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Interview by Melissa Beralus.

Published December 2024.

Explore Cap-Haïtien

The True Story of Haitian Zombies (Insights from an Insider)

August 4, 2024 by Anton Lau

Visualization of a Haitian zombie
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Insights from an Insider: Discover the True Story of Haitian Zombies

Ever wondered about the true story of Haitian zombies? Far removed from Hollywood depictions, the mythology of these fascinating yet misunderstood creatures was shaped by deep-rooted beliefs and the trauma of slavery.

Embarking on a journey means stepping away from the familiarity of home, venturing into unknown territories, and experiencing profound transformations—not just in our surroundings but within ourselves as well.

The story you’re about to read might feel a bit like that. It’s a journey into the heart of Haitian culture, where you’ll encounter one of the most mystifying and misunderstood aspects of its folklore: the zombie.

What comes to mind when you hear the word “zombie”? These terrifying, flesh-eating creatures have become staples of horror films and video games over the past few decades. From the seminal 1968 film Night of the Living Dead to the modern phenomena of The Walking Dead series and games like Resident Evil, zombies have firmly entrenched themselves in global pop culture.

However, many are unaware that the zombie myth originated right here in Haiti. In fact, the word itself is a Haitian Creole word. And though the Hollywood portrayal of zombies is far removed from the original Haitian myth, they all owe their heritage to Haiti, and in particular to the former enslaved people of the island.

So, how did this myth evolve into an important part of global pop culture, becoming a collective cultural touchstone recognized worldwide?

To give you the true story, we’re going to have to go back in time—not just to the 1980s, where the most recent global fascination with zombies started. We’re going all the way back to the 17th and 18th centuries.

Buche Perico restaurant in Santo Domingo — Grave at a cemetery
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Origins of the Zombie Myth

The history of zombies in Haiti dates back to the 17th and 18th centuries, during the era of Saint-Domingue, a colony brutally ruled by France. French colonialists forcibly brought enslaved Africans to work on sugar plantations, subjecting them to inhumane and extreme conditions. The death rate was so high that half of the enslaved brought from Africa died within a few years, prompting the French to continually replenish their labor force with new captives. This era of brutal exploitation and the pervasive fears and beliefs of the enslaved people sowed the seeds of what would evolve into the modern myth of the zombie.

Zombies are a significant yet singular aspect of Haitian folklore, akin to the roles of boogeymen or vampires in Western stories. The nocturnal world of Haitian legends is populated with myriad entities, each reflecting deeper social and spiritual beliefs. Among these are hairless pigs, believed to be the incarnations of powerful secret societies that patrol the night, bloodthirsty Lougawous, and the towering Mèt Minwi, which you can read more about here.

Within this landscape teeming with mythical creatures, the concept of the zombie was born—a concept deeply intertwined with cultural beliefs inherited from Africa. The Haitian word “zonbi” is believed to derive from the Kikongo word “nzumbi,” which translates to ‘soul’ or ‘spirit of the dead.’ This origin highlights a profound Haitian fear of soul theft—a fate believed to be worse than death itself.

Misinterpretations by Western Media

Though Haitian folklore is replete with mystical creatures, it was the zombie that captured Hollywood’s imagination and achieved global fame. This fascination began during the long U.S. invasion and occupation of Haiti, starting in 1915, when returning soldiers and journalists brought home exotic stories from the Caribbean island. Their tales painted Haiti as both an exotic and savagely mystical land, a portrayal that captivated the American public.

The 1929 best-selling travel book, The Magic Island, played a pivotal role in shaping American perceptions of Haitian culture. The book introduced the concept of the Haitian zombie to American pop culture, setting the stage for a slew of sensationalized and exploitative adaptations. The most notable of these was the 1932 movie White Zombie.

The early fascination with zombies also sparked a wave of scientific and literary interest. Anthropologist Zora Neale Hurston, influenced by the story she read in The Magic Island, traveled to Haiti in 1936 to study Haitian Vodou and folklore. Her subsequent book, Tell My Horse, delves into the magical realism of Haiti and chronicles her exploration of the centuries-old belief in zombies.

Although some critics dismissed her accounts as urban fiction, Hurston’s work highlighted the deep connection between zombies and Haitian folklore. She revealed that local sorcerers, known as bokors, could allegedly use a secret potion to impair individuals’ vital and cerebral functions, transforming them into the living dead, similar to the zombies of Haitian lore.

From this exploration, a real hunt for zombies in Haiti began, attracting numerous researchers in search of the infamous zombie powder. Each new book and hype cycle tended to focus on sensationalized, exotic stories or on debunking myths. This trend continued with works like the 1988 book The Serpent and the Rainbow, later adapted into a film, and even a 2012 VICE documentary titled Investigating the Haitian Zombie, which was at best disrespectful and superficial.

Despite these interpretations, the zombie remains an integral part of our Haitian cultural landscape. Zombies feature in our storytelling, carnival celebrations, proverbs, religious practices, and even our Penal Code.

As Zora Neale Hurston vividly notes, “in Haiti, stories of zombies spread and circulate like a cold breeze.” Even a short stay here is enough to hear the chilling tales of corpses stolen at dusk and the dead brought back to life for servile labor. These stories, steeped in the realities of past oppressions and current fears, continue to shape the Haitian understanding of life, death, and beyond.

Dawn at cemetery
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Demystifying the Haitian Zombie

Contrary to the portrayal in Western popular culture, in Haiti, a zombie is primarily a living human being whose mental faculties have been severely altered. In Haitian society, it’s common to metaphorically describe someone with diminished mental capabilities or who shows laziness as behaving like a zombie. This is reflected in the popular Creole saying, “si m ap mache tèt atè sa pa vle di m zombi pour sa” (meaning “if I’m walking with my head down, it doesn’t make me a zombie”).

Delving deeper into Haitian beliefs and traditions reveals the significant role of salt in zombie mythology. Being a zombie in Haitian culture is often seen as a condition where a person remains constantly under the control of a Bokor or sorcerer. The Bokor must regularly administer a special potion to keep their victim in an unconscious state and maintain control. Salt is known as one of the antidotes to this state; it is believed that a zombie who tastes salt will regain their senses, as the Haitian proverb goes: “zonbi goute sel li pa mande rete” (a zombie who tastes salt will not ask to stay).

Zombies as Symbols of Resistance

In Haitian popular culture, the portrayal of zombies creates a powerful symbolic representation of the servitude relationship between the zombie and its creator. This relationship mirrors the master-slave dynamics of the colonial period, where death was often seen as a merciful escape from the brutal realities of forced labor.

Moreover, zombification is considered by some as a form of resistance against slavery. It is a strategy that was purportedly employed by secret societies formed by runaway enslaved individuals. These groups, drawing on their extensive knowledge of botany, developed poisons and remedies. Beyond the horrifying practice of poisoning newborns to spare them the horrors of slavery, it is believed that zombification was also used by some enslaved people as a means to escape from plantations.

Zombie Folklore vs. Reality

The enduring fascination with the zombies of Haitian folklore, and the extensive scientific research it has inspired, stem largely from a Western desire to demystify what are, for the Haitian people, deeply intimate beliefs. In Haiti, as well as for their African ancestors, death—whether natural or induced—is not the end but a journey that may be fraught with complications.

When Haitians talk about zombies, Lougawou, and hairless pigs with the casualness of discussing the weather, it reflects a cultural familiarity with these concepts, rather than a need to unravel them. They fear not the mystery of zombie powder, but the real possibility of losing their souls’ essence, having witnessed “revenants”—those who return as mere shadows of their former selves—and thus, they accept the reality of zombies.

This deep connection between the Haitian imagination, Vodou, African cultural heritage, and the traumatic legacy of slavery explains the pervasive presence of zombies in Haitian life. A zombie symbolizes more than just a spectral figure; it embodies the fears of a people subdued by broken promises, the enforcement of contracts through the dread of supernatural retribution, and even a fiancé’s fear of breaking a commitment, lest he finds himself ensnared in mystical retribution, trapped in a bottle or lost in a cornfield.

Zora Neale Hurston poignantly concluded that the key to understanding zombies lay not in finding a secret potion or in debunking another people’s mythology. It was actually believing in them. “If you could twist your brain into seeing that fact, then you had taken a giant step toward seeing Haiti—and most importantly, its spirituality—from the inside.”

Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published July 2024.

Explore Haitian Vodou and Spirituality

Known Before You Go: Haitian Slang Words & Phrases

December 27, 2023 by Angel Rosario

Haitian boys near Kafou Zaboka
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Haitian Words & Phrases That Will Make You Sound Like a Local

Want to sound like a local or impress your Haitian friends? Read this guide to the essential Haitian Creole slang words and phrases!

Did you know that Haitian Creole is the most spoken Creole language in the world? This lyrical language, rich in cultural and historical significance, stands as one of the two official languages of Haiti, alongside French.

Imagine traveling to Haiti, relaxing on some of the Caribbean’s best beaches, munching on fresh and flavorful seafood, and being surrounded by the melodic rhythms of Creole. But there’s a challenge: amidst the pristine beaches and lively streets, you find yourself lost in a sea of unfamiliar words, feeling like an outsider.

What if we told you that you could blend in like a local, converse effortlessly, and even impress your translator? We’ve prepared something special for you – an easy-to-learn list of some of the most common Haitian slang words and phrases. These aren’t just words; they’re a bridge to forming deep connections with Haitian culture and its people. Considering that over 15 million people worldwide speak Haitian Creole, these phrases might also come in handy even beyond Haiti’s borders.

Keep reading to unlock these fun Haitian expressions, and get ready to wow the locals with your newfound linguistic flair!

1. Chawa pete

This expression, which has gained popularity recently, is predominantly used by the youth. You’ll frequently encounter it at after-parties or various celebrations across Haiti. Essentially, it signifies that the party is going to be fantastic – expect an extraordinary surge of enjoyment, or it might even imply that things have spiraled into wild, uncontrolled fun. So, the next time you’re at a party that’s brimming with energy, try dropping this phrase. It’s bound to make an impression.

2. Mawozo

What do you call men who don’t know how to handle women in your language? In Haitian Creole, we use the word “mawozo.” However, this term has broader applications than just this context. It also refers to someone whose style of dressing deviates from the typical fashion norms of the country or, more generally, to individuals displaying odd and abrupt behavior that tends to alarm or intimidate others, especially women.

3. Nan zil tik

The Turks Islands, more commonly known in English as the Turks and Caicos, is an archipelago of 40 islands in the Atlantic Ocean and a member of the Commonwealth. Geographically situated in the Caribbean and north of Haiti, these islands embody what Haitians imagine as the very edge of the world. So, in Creole, to say that one is going to or returning from the Turks Islands indicates that one is traveling to or coming back from a very distant place.

4. Bwòdè

You already know the term for men who struggle with interacting with women, so what do we call someone who’s the exact opposite – a person brimming with confidence and adept at handling the opposite sex? The Haitian Creole word for such a person is “bwòdè.” Originating from the English word “brother,” a bwòdè is a master of fashion, skilled in the art of conversation, and radiates self-assurance. Remember, if you’re planning a trip to Haiti, aim for a bwòdè style in your wardrobe – in Haiti, fashion is considered an art form.

5. N ap boule & N ap kenbe

“N’ap boule,” literally translating to “we are burning,” and “n ap kenbe,” meaning “we are holding on,” are interchangeable phrases in Haitian Creole, both signifying “it’s okay” or “I’m doing well.” Haitian Creole is renowned for its poetic flair, often utilizing stylistic devices like metaphors to articulate thoughts and feelings. Admittedly, there’s a certain charm in saying “we are burning under the hot sun but holding on regardless,” compared to a simple “it’s okay,” wouldn’t you agree?

6. Pa gen pwoblèm

“There’s no problem.” This expression is a common one you’ll often hear in Haiti, or even when you’re around Haitians abroad. If this phrase were a condiment, it would be an onion because it’s found in all the sauces of Haitian Creole. You can even use it as a substitute for “you’re welcome,” an expression that doesn’t have a direct equivalent in Haitian Creole.

7. Lè ti poul fè dan

This phrase in Haitian Creole is particularly accessible to French speakers as it directly mirrors the French saying, “quand les poules auront des dents” meaning “when chickens have teeth.” It humorously alludes to a highly improbable future or a scenario that’s unlikely to ever materialize. For instance, you might jokingly remark that you’ll stop exploring Haitian culture “lè ti poul fè dan,” emphasizing the unlikelihood of ever giving up such an endeavor.

8. Je chèch

“Je chèch” translates to “dry eyes” in English. This Creole expression, which refers to insincere or crocodile tears shed to elicit empathy, actually describes someone who is fearless and capable of handling any situation with composure and resolve.

9. Soumoun

In Haitian culture, as in many others, people who pry into others’ business are often frowned upon. To describe such nosy individuals, Haitians use the term “soumoun,” a versatile word that can function as a noun, a verb, or an adjective. So now you know what to call someone who habitually meddles in your affairs uninvited.

10. Bourik tomazo

While we’re on the subject of Haitian words for those we are not fond of, it’s worth mentioning that the Creole language also has unique phrases for our beloved ones. A notable expression among these is “bourik tomazo,” which translates to “donkeys of Tomazo town.” This endearing term is used to describe people who share an inseparable bond, always seen together and known for their deep friendship. It also refers to people with similar appearance or behavior and often react similarly in various situations.

11. Tèt chaje

Among the many expressions in Haitian Creole relating to the head, “Tèt chaje” is particularly widespread. Translating to “heavy head” or “loaded head,” this phrase draws its imagery from street vendors who traditionally carry goods on their heads. It’s versatile in usage, commonly employed to convey feelings of frustration or surprise. So, when you find yourself at a loss for words due to shocking news or an unexpected event, “Tèt chaje” is the quintessential Haitian exclamation to express your state of astonishment or dismay.

12. Soup endepandans

Last but not least, the term “soup endepandans” (independence soup) has gained popularity in recent years, referring to soup joumou, Haiti’s national dish. This pumpkin soup, enriched with meat and pasta, is a culinary staple served nationwide every January 1st to celebrate the Declaration of Independence. It ranks among the top 5 must-try foods for anyone visiting Haiti. And for vegetarians, there’s a meat-free version of this iconic dish.

Now that you have stocked up on Haitian Creole slang words and phrases, when are you planning your visit to Haiti to put them into practice?

Written by Melissa Beralus.

Published December 2023.

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Haiti Up Close

Great Haitian Charities to Support (and Those to Avoid!)

Whether you’re donating from a distance or only able to visit the project site briefly, it’s difficult to see what is (or isn’t) happening with your support. Here is a list of Haitian organizations you can support in good faith—and those you should avoid.

Don’t be misled

From Our Land to Your Home

So Who Can You Trust?

Haitian-Founded Organizations You Can Support With Confidence

Fonkoze

The CHF Foundation

P4H Global

FOKAL

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Grown in Haiti

Haiti Communitere

Haiti Ocean Project

Ayiti Community Trust

start your day the Haitian way

One of the Best Ways to Help Haiti? Visit and Support Local Businesses!

Citadelle Henri

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Between Sea and Shadow: The Lore of Haitian Mermaids & Lougawou

Journey through Haitian folklore, where the mysterious lougawou and mesmerizing Haitian mermaids bring myths to life

a touch of haitian wisdom

1. Unveiling the Mystery of the Haitian Mermaid

2. A Haitian Rainbow Is More Than Meets the Eye

a touch of haitian wisdom

3. Bouki and Ti Malice, The Dynamic Duo of Haitian Folklore

4. Mèt Minwi: The Giant of Haitian Nights

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

5. Zombies

6. Beware of the Lougawou

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Money & Costs in Haiti

Where can you change money in Haiti? How much is a bottle of beer, a burger or a bus trip? Find out here!

From Our Land to Your Home

Haitian Currency: What You Need to Know

Bills, Bills, Bills

Changing Money

Using ATMs and Credit Cards in Haiti

So How Much Does Things Cost in Haiti?

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Pro Tip for Navigating Costs

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

How To Spend A Saturday In Cap-Haïtien, According To Okap Native Za

Discover Cap-Haïtien beyond tourist traps with the best local guide, Agnès Jean Bernard aka Za

start your day the Haitian way

Where should we start if we have one day to discover the city of Cap-Haitien?

When is the best time to go down there?

What’s our next stop?

This is a cathedral, isn’t it?

And that spot over there?

So, what’s the story with this square?

You hang out here a lot?

This place is buzzing! What’s it all about?

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

So, is that the only piece of history we’ve got in Cap-Haïtien?

Got any last gems for us?

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Explore Cap-Haïtien

Paradise for your inbox

Insights from an Insider: Discover the True Story of Haitian Zombies

Ever wondered about the true story of Haitian zombies? Far removed from Hollywood depictions, the mythology of these fascinating yet misunderstood creatures was shaped by deep-rooted beliefs and the trauma of slavery.

a touch of haitian wisdom

Origins of the Zombie Myth

Misinterpretations by Western Media

From Our Land to Your Home

Demystifying the Haitian Zombie

start your day the Haitian way

Zombies as Symbols of Resistance

Zombie Folklore vs. Reality

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Explore Haitian Vodou and Spirituality

Paradise for your inbox

Haitian Words & Phrases That Will Make You Sound Like a Local

Select Language

start your day
the Haitian way

a touch of
haitian wisdom

a touch of
haitian wisdom

Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

start your day
the Haitian way

a touch of
haitian wisdom

start your day
the Haitian way

Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

start your day
the Haitian way

start your day
the Haitian way