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Food & Drink

La Maison Dufort: Defining Haitian Architecture in Port-au-Prince

La Maison Dufort in Bois-Verna, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

La Maison Dufort

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In the quiet residential area of Bois-Verna in Port-au-Prince, you will find la Maison Dufort (the Dufort House), one of the jewels of the emblematic architectural style of Gingerbread houses in Haiti. It is a vestige of this architectural style that was especially popular around the turn of the century in Haiti – in cities such as Port-au-Prince, JacmelCap-Haïtien, or Jérémie.

With their particular charm, these houses have managed to remarkably resist Haiti’s hot and humid tropical climate, not to mention numerous natural disasters over the years. Nowadays, they constitute an integral part of Haiti’s architectural heritage, and the Dufort House is undoubtedly one of the most curious examples of this classic and refined architecture.

The Dufort House: Over a century of History

The house is also in a quiet area of Port-au-Prince where art lovers of all kinds can meet to display their works, discuss art during a gallery opening, and admire the exhibitions that cover the walls of the charming house. Or you can simply enjoy a cold beer during a show or concert.

If you ever take a detour between 2nd and 3rd Avenues du Travail, it is unlikely you’ll resist the flowery façade, old wooden doors, pointed roofs, and magnificent balconies of the Dufort House. The arrangement of these architectural elements gives the structure an eclectic look that contrasts with the peaceful neighborhood of Bois-Verna. The Dufort House is a true architectural masterpiece and one of the most remarkable examples of this typically twentieth-century Haitian style.

Haitian architect Léon Mathon, one of the three main architects who would popularize this architectural style in Haiti, designed the house in 1910. Like most of the other Gingerbread houses built during this period, it was first used as a family residence, belonging to – none other than – the powerful Dufort family. The structure was then used as an office building until 2010, when the January 12 earthquake severely damaged it.

Veranda area of La Maison Dufort
Photo: Franck Fontain

A walk through Maison Dufort

The Dufort House presents its visitors with an agreeable mix of opulence, elegance, class, and comfort. The building is nestled amidst a rustic setting that consists of a 1,200 square meter paved courtyard, a bougainvillea garden, and flowerbeds all around the house. Taken all together, it’s a serene setting where you can quickly forget the somewhat chaotic feeling of Port-au-Prince’s urban center.

The main entrance leads into a vestibule that connects to three other rooms. Opposite the vestibule is a magnificent wooden spiral staircase that leads to the second level. The second level’s high roof, beautiful casement windows, wooden floor, and balcony are all typical of Gingerbread architecture. These elements ensure that the rooms on the upper level maintain a pleasant ambient temperature, thanks to the constant breeze.

The Dufort House is of particular architectural interest, as it combines the two most distinctive features of Haitian Gingerbread architecture. While some buildings of this type are either entirely brick or entirely wood, the Dufort House elegantly combines these two varieties. The first level has a concrete and brick frame, but the second level is made entirely of wood, not to mention its wooden balcony, which is an unmistakable feature of these historic homes.

Art exhibition at La Maison Dufort
Photo: Franck Fontain

Le Musée Dufort

The Dufort House Museum is currently run by Fondasyon Konesans ak Libète (the FOKAL Foundation), which uses it as a museum for the various exhibitions it organizes with other partners, such as Centre d’Art (the Art Center). The Dufort House hosts major artistic and cultural events, including the Vives exhibition in January and February of 2022, and still presents other seasonal exhibitions or cultural activities.

In 2016, the house and museum were renovated with the support of FOKAL and WMF as part of a worksite dedicated to preserving the architectural heritage of Gingerbread houses in Haiti. It has been operational and open to the public since.

Today, the House and Museum are Port-au-Prince’s true refuge for art enthusiasts. Just finding oneself inside its timeless setting makes the trip well worth it. The structure is a work of art itself, and the exhibits will make you want to visit time and again.

La Maison Dufort in Bois-Verna, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

How to visit

The Dufort House and Museum are located at number 9 on the 2nd Rue du Travail, in Port-au-Prince, right down the street from Saint Adres medical institute, between the 1st Rue du Travail and Rue Vilmenay. The fastest route is from Champs-de-Mars via Avenue Charles Sumner, which then forks into the Second Avenue du Travail. Hiring a taxi would be most ideal.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published November 2020.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Lansèt kod group in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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If you already know a little about Haiti, then you likely have an idea about our magnificent country, located on the enchanting island of Hispaniola that we share with the Dominican Republic. It’s possible, however, that you have yet to hear about some of the most unique Haitian cultural traditions only known to locals.

To satisfy your curiosity, we’ve rounded up a selection of our oldest traditions, ranging from the daily life in our rural communities to the hubbub of our cities and rich culinary culture.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. “Krik-Krak”

Any true Haitian knows that the exclamation “krik?” always proceeds with an excellent “krak,” or story, as telling tales is an integral part of Haiti’s cultural traditions. Whether under an arbor drinking lemongrass tea with cinnamon or in the comfort of a warm room, the youngest gather around the oldest to tell their tales of yesteryear.

If you want to catch the attention of a Haitian friend, take every opportunity to throw out a “krik?” and they will invariably respond with a “krak.” But your story better be a good one!

Sounds interesting, doesn’t it? Get the backstory to this unique tradition and discover the impact of krik-krak in Haitian culture. Also, for an excellent read, the book Krik? Krak! is a compilation of fascinating Haitian tales by Edwidge Danticat, one of the most famous Haitian women authors to date.

Workers in a konbit in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

2. Konbit

If you pass through some rural regions in Haiti during the tilling season, don’t be surprised to find all the villagers working together or on each other’s lands. This form of social organization in our rural societies is an essential part of our culture and one of the oldest Haitian traditions that continue to this day.

While the men happily handle their kouto digo (hatchet), and machetes to unearth and work the land before its next sowing, women prepare the meals. Moreover, the word “konbit” in Haitian Creole has come into use to refer to living in harmony and the neighborly practices that are unique to the Haitian community.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

3. Lakou

Imagine living in a homeland within another, where each individual forms an integral part of a larger society devoted to a greater good. In Haiti, such a place is known as a lakou. It’s typical to see Haitian families sharing common spaces around their central family units.

The lakou serves as an educational cocoon in which the youngest members can learn about sharing and living in neighborly harmony from their elders. Those who grow up in the commune have a responsibility to one day return to honor their family, seek wise advice, and publicly apologize to the Vodou spirits or loas that may have been offended.

Many Haitian rural communities rely on the social organization that lakou provide to advance in everyday living – and not only do they till the ground together but also share and practice their belief in Haitian Vodou. The worship of spirits is deeply entrenched in the lakou, and well-known lakou like Souvans, Soukri, and Badio maintain this cultural tradition unique to Haiti.

Beny chans preparations in Kabik
Photo: Anton Lau

4. Beny chans

It might seem strange from the looks of it initially, but if you happen to come across a large water bowl of mixed herbs and leaves while traveling through Haiti, then you’ve encountered a “beny chans.” Traditionally an herbal shower for women after giving birth, it is also considered a potion for good luck, finding a soulmate, or even protection during a life-changing trip.

If you didn’t grow up in Haiti, you might be wary about dipping your hands in this unusual mixture. Still, for locals, it’s all part of the unique Haitian culture – so much so that it wouldn’t be surprising for a native living abroad to return to Haiti to receive this sacred anointment on New Year’s eve.

Feeling adventurous? Go and give it a try. But don’t forget to tap into your African-Caribbean roots with our guide on returning to the motherland.

a vodou priest and practitioner performing a dance
Ritual at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. Vodou ceremony and dance

Here’s one of the Haitian cultural traditions that will undoubtedly arouse your curiosity. Forget about the mainstream concept of a group of bloodthirsty Satanists gathering at a run-down Gothic-style church – this is Hollywood stereotyping at its best. Instead, think of an authentic spiritual experience where members enter a trance-like state in alignment with powerful spiritual entities.

Haitian culture isn’t the only one that has Vodou as a religious practice, with similar rituals actively performed in places like the Deep South” in Louisiana or the insular African nation of Benin. In countries such as Brazil and Cuba, the practice of Santeria is still common in many communities. The Haitian Vodou tradition, however, involves elements from years of syncretism, resulting in a blend of African, Christian, and Taíno spiritual traditions.

Vodou is a strong cultural tradition in the Haitian collective imagination—and it’s present in Haitian paintings, music, dances, and literature. More than simply religion or spirituality, Vodou is an intangible patrimony that all Haitians share, whether they consider themselves a true practitioner or not.

Ready for an experience of your own? Find out how to attend a Vodou ceremony in Haiti.

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

6. Fèt Gede

The dead occupy a place of central importance in Haitian daily life, and honoring them constitutes one of the most sacred cultural traditions. To do this, the entire month of November is consecrated each year to ceremonies aimed at appeasing the dead and communicating with them. The spirits that reign over the world of the dead in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Bawon Samdi and Grann Brigitte.

The Gédé symbolizes the spirits of those who have passed into the other world. During the ceremonies organized in their honor, they return to bring joy to the people with their frenzied dancing and salacious speech.

Every Haitian day of the dead celebration is packed with an aura of excitement and mysticism, which you can see for yourself in this photo journal from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band marching in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

7. Rara

Not all Haitian cultural traditions have origins as dark as those about death. In fact, some of them are rather joyous, and the Rara is a perfect example. These groups that march on foot along the streets during pre-Carnaval weekends and the Easter period constitute one of Haiti’s best-known cultural practices.

These spirited groups of bons vivants play various instruments, such as bamboo, the vaccine, cymbals, and sometimes even trumpets and other brass instruments. Their repertoire can run from parodies of popular songs to original songs and those written for special occasions.

Each group is preceded by a man who carries a flag, a woman who wears the group’s colors, and young girls who start the procession. Following are musicians and the rest of the good-natured group that dances along to the sound of the music.

Now, the practice of Rara isn’t only particular to Haiti; other Caribbean nations like Cuba and the Dominican Republic, where it is known as Gaga, have adopted this cultural tradition from Haiti.

Get the true origins behind the Rara tradition of Haiti and join the celebration!

A group of lansèt kod in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Lansèt kòd

If you visit Haiti during the Carnival period, you’ll undoubtedly have the chance to witness one of the most unforgettable cultural traditions: the famous procession of the Lansèt Kòd. Some Haitians will tell you that they were traumatized by it as children. These groups that flood the streets of towns such as Jacmel, Jérémie, or Cap-Haïtien on pre-Carnival Sundays have more than what it takes to impress.

Wearing bull horns on their heads and whips in hand, these men with rippling muscles and bare chests fill up the streets while covered entirely in black paint. Yes, you read that right—they are completely covered with a blacker-than-black substance that will surely make you think of crude oil. Throughout the Carnival procession, they’ll offer up a performance that will remain ingrained in your memory for some time.

Learn more about the Lansèt kòd tradition here!

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Carnival

The Haitian carnival is one of the most widely recognized in the Caribbean. The one hosted in Jacmel has been decreed a national festival due to its artistic allure, attracting numerous tourists every year. It is a brightly colored cultural manifestation where you’ll see Haitian artisans’ talent displayed in themes reminiscent of flora and fauna of the country.

This popular celebration is not only an occasion for artists and artisans to display their talents or attract visitors – but it’s also a means for the population to express their problems with the powers that be. It’s a celebration where all levels of society come together without embarrassment or worrying about societal barriers.

If you’re looking to be part of the festivities this February, then you’d better be prepared to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval.

A bowl of soup joumou
Soup Joumou
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Soup Joumou

If you visit any Haitian family on New Year’s Day, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by a culinary practice as old as Haiti: the traditional Soup Joumou preparation. So forget about your desire to eat anything else, and let our succulent soup seduce your tastebuds.

Prepared from a giraumont (turban squash) base, where the soup gets its name -as well as vegetables and tubers – this dish is a staple in all Haitian households on New Year’s Day. Don’t be surprised to see people incorporating Soup Joumou with every meal served during the entire celebration. It’s just that good.

This tradition hearkens back to January 1st, 1804, when the young nation chose this delicious dish – until then only reserved for the colonizers and special guests – to celebrate their freshly acquired liberty.

Want to find out what makes Soup Joumou so unique? Pick up on some of the history behind the dish, and learn the basics of preparing the best Soup Joumou.

Fête champêtre in Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Fête champêtre

Every city in Haiti has its own patron Saint to which the inhabitants turn to confess their troubles and joys or make special petitions. These cultural celebrations of the patron saints, also called fête champêtres, are on another level.

Regardless of their religious beliefs, locals from other provincial towns, as well as a crowd of curious onlookers and tourists, head toward the capital cities from each village to celebrate the feast dedicated to the patron saint.

Along with religious pilgrims, you also have the partygoers who are only there to enjoy the festival following the Grand Mass of the local parish. Among the most popular fêtes champêtres in Haiti are the celebrations of Notre Dame of Mount Carmel in Saut d’Eau and Notre Dame in Petit Goâve.

Gather with the locals and go on a pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau, whether for spiritual reasons or just to celebrate and party hard with the crowd.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2022.


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15 Fun Facts About Haiti

Sail boat in Labadee
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fun Facts About Haiti

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You’ve probably already heard of Haiti, whether in the news, in history class, or elsewhere. But what exactly do you know about this magnificent country?

We’ve gathered some of the most surprising and interesting facts about our country and the amazing people living here. From cultural celebrations and old flags to weird food traditions and traveler-friendly facts. So, keep reading and get to know Haiti a bit better with these 15 fun facts!

Petite Cayemite island near Pestel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. Haiti is (part of) an island

If you plan to visit the Republic of Haiti, keep in mind that it’s, in fact, the western part of an island that it shares with another republic, the Dominican Republic. The name of this island is Hispaniola. The Dominican Republic lies to the east, and its capital is Santo Domingo. Haiti lies to the west, and its capital is Port-au-Prince. The two nations share, in addition to the island, an eventful history, with each possessing a unique cultural identity despite a few similarities they have in common.

Mountain forest in Seguin, La Visite National Park
Photo: Alamy

2. Haiti is mountainous

No matter where you may find yourself in Haiti, you’ll either be on a mountain range or have one in view. The country is made up of a series of breathtaking mountain landscapes. Actually, the very name Haiti means “mountainous land” in the Taíno language spoken by the island’s indigenous inhabitants.

So if you like hiking in the mountains, Haiti is the perfect tourist destination for you. Two main mountain ranges dominate the country’s topography, covering it from north to south. So, grab your hiking shoes and your camera, and come enjoy our mountain landscapes and the fresh air of the countryside!

sun rising over beach with palm trees and lifeguard chair
Sunrise over Ti Mouillage beach, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

3. It’s summer all year round

In Haiti, there’s sunshine and even more sunshine! In our country, the weather is nice all year round. The tropical climate typically means just one hot season and another season that’s a little milder. So, no matter the time of year, Haiti’s white sandy beaches are waiting to welcome you. Don’t forget to bring your bathing suit to take a dip in the ocean, because the summer is truly never over here – and that’s just a fact!

Labadee Beach
Photo: Shutterstock

4. We have breathtaking coastlines

The Caribbean is well-known for its lovely beaches, and our beaches are among the most beautiful in the region. You can visit Lover Island in Ile à Vache, Labadee in Cap-Haïtien, the Arcadins coast, the Anse Blanche beach close to Pestel, or Boukanye in Petit-Goâve. No matter where you go in Haiti, there’s a lovely white sand beach to discover!

Grotte Marie Jeanne
Photo: CavesOfHaiti.org

5. Haiti has the deepest cave in the Caribbean

Are you a fan of caving and exploring deep underground grottos? If so, dive into one of the Caribbean’s most spectacular cave adventures. With a massive cave system of more than four kilometers (two-and-a-half miles), the Grotte Marie Jeanne is the deepest cave in the Caribbean! Located in the south of Haiti by the city of Port-à-Piment, this impressive cave and its five levels of natural galleries and stalactites will, without a doubt, leave you speechless.

A bowl of soup joumou on a serving tray
Soup Joumou
Photo: Anton Lau

6. World-renowned food

When you discover Haitian cuisine, we are sure you’ll want to tell the whole world! In fact, we have a dish that UNESCO recognizes as part of the “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.” The dish that earned this high honor is a soup like no other, Soup Joumou. This soup is a real treat for the tastebuds, prepared with giraumont (turban squash), other vegetables, tubers, and meat. While traditionally eaten on New Year’s Day among families, as Americans do with Thanksgiving turkey, feel free to delight in this famous soup any time of the year! It’ll be our pleasure.

Read more about  Soup Joumou – The taste of freedom!

Haitian hot peppers
Photo: Anton Lau

7. Haitians enjoy spicy food

While we’re on the topic of Haitian cuisine, it might be a good time to let you know that Haitians eat particularly spicy food, as is the case for many of our Caribbean neighbors. Our cuisine is spiced with goat pepper, vinegar, and all the spices grown locally on the island. Before tasting a Haitian dish, you may want to prepare yourself, as the exceptionally spicy taste of our cuisine might take you by surprise!

Explore the flavors of Haitian cuisine through this culinary map!

Haitian spaghetti breakfast
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Haitians eat spaghetti for breakfast

Let’s continue with the theme of Haitian cuisine. Don’t be too thrown off by our eating habits, which may differ from yours. For example, Haitians truly subscribe to the old adage that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, often eating rather heavy food as soon as they wake up. So, don’t be surprised if a Haitian offers you a big plate of spaghetti for breakfast!

Discover the Haitian street food you have to try!

Street vendors surrounded by baskets of colorful fresh produce at a market in Fermathe, Haiti
Street vendors, Fermathe
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Degi

We have a word for what you get for free when you shop at our local markets. So, don’t forget to claim your degi the next time you visit a Haitian market. The vendor will willingly add this to your groceries if you have made a nice purchase or to encourage you to return!

Two schoolgirls laughing in Corail, Haiti
Schoolgirls in Corail
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Greetings

You may be surprised by how many different greetings you hear when in Haiti. Thanks to the richness of Haitian Creole, you will hear much more than simply bonjou. Keep an ear out for greetings like sak pase (how are you?) or onè respè (cheers!).

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Haitians don’t celebrate Halloween

If you’re a big lover of Halloween costumes and children trick or treating, you can forget about it in Haiti. Many Haitians have not even heard of this holiday, let alone celebrate it.

Instead, Haitians celebrate Fèt Gede, a cultural tradition much like All Saints Day and the Day of the Dead practiced in Mexico and other Latin American countries. Ceremonies are held throughout the month of November to appease the dearly departed, cemeteries are cleaned, and graves are painted to welcome the loa (spirits) of those who return to the earthly realm during this period.

Read more about this unique cultural tradition and see photos from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaïves!

Group of fisherman in Dame Marie, Haiti
Fishermen in Dame Marie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

12. Haitian Creole is the most spoken creole language in the world

When we talk about a “creole” language, we’re referring to a language that developed out of the meeting of Latin, African, and Amerindian languages during colonization and its aftermath. These languages are now spoken in many communities all over the world.

Haitian Creole, however, has the largest number of speakers in the world, and it’s also the most widely used language in Haiti. There’s even a Haitian proverb that testifies to the simplicity of the language and the fact that Haitian Creole is understood as easily as it is spoken: kreyol pale, kreyol konprann.

A jar of Haitian manba (spicy peanut butter)
Photo: Anton Lau

13. In our country, peanut butter is a little bit… extra

We’re guessing you’ve probably already tasted peanut butter. Here in Haiti, this creamy treat is known as manba, and it’s often used as a spread on bread or cassave, which is a flatbread made from cassava root. But what might surprise you — although maybe less so after reading this article — is that our peanut butter is particularly spicy since it’s mixed with hot peppers, ginger, and other local spices. This gives it a potent flavor that is unique to Haiti!

14. The famous novelist Alexandre Dumas is of Haitian origin

Haiti is known for its many poets and novelists who have won international awards, including authors such as Jacques Roumain, Frankétienne, Jean-Stephen Alexis, Marie Chauvet, Dany Laferrière, Edwidge Danticat, and Yanick Lahens. But among the most famous novelists in the world are Alexandre Dumas Jr. and Sr., who are of Haitian origin. The author of the classic novel The Three Musketeers (Dumas Sr.) is, in fact, the son of a mulatto general born in Jérémie when Haiti was still a colony of France.

15. How’s this for a fun fact? Venezuela’s flag was created in Haiti

You might know the flag of Venezuela with its stripes of yellow, blue, and red. But did you know the flag was first flown not in Venezuela but in the Haitian coastal city of Jacmel?  More precisely, on March 12th, 1806. The flag was designed in Jacmel by General Francisco de Miranda, a Venezuelan who began the struggle for the liberation of Venezuela, Ecuador, and Colombia. This struggle was taken up by Simon Bolivar with the help of then-Haitian president Alexandre Pétion.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published October 2022.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Haitian Cuisine: A Culinary Map of Haiti

haitian girl smahing breadfruit with a big mortar in courtyard
Girl smashing beadfruit with a pilon for tonmtonm
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Haitian Cuisine: A Culinary Map of Haiti

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A culinary map of Haitian food

Come with us on a lip-smacking journey around one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean as we map out the most recognizable landmarks of manje peyi – “country food”, or Haitian cuisine.

Famous for its Caribbean climate, thriving art scene and positive outlook, this little country is certainly not being let down by its food culture. Created by centuries of cultural syncretism, Haitian creole cuisine is a blend of native Caribbean, African and French Colonial cooking styles, with a spicy dash of Spanish influence from the east of the island (and thanks to how well habanero peppers grow here!).

Many “classic” Haitian recipes crystallized early on in Haiti’s republican history, and have survived the test of time, but Haitians pride themselves on innovation, and Haitian food is no exception.

table with a bowl of haitian akasan, bread, cashew nuts, star anis and glass of water
A bowl of akasan
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Start at the beginning

Breakfast in Haiti begins with akasan, a thick, corn-based porridge served with sugar, cinnamon, and coconut milk. Over the years, ingredients like cow’s milk as well as vanilla and almond extracts have been introduced to it, too. The name akasan is part of the language heritage left to us by the indigenous inhabitants of Hispaniola – specifically a tribe called the Arawak, who made up the majority on the island at the time of Hispaniola’s colonization.

The Arawak also left us with the recipe for kasav. Comparable to a galette, kasav is made of cassava, and usually enjoyed with either peanut butter or avocado. Some people innovate and eat their kasav with an omelet or with cheese.

table with haitian coffee, cassava, fruits and peanut butter
Haitian breakfast with kasav
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Today, each department has its own culinary specialty. Coastal cities like Jacmel, Les Cayes and Port-Salut are well known for dishes featuring fresh fish – fried, boiled, grilled, or in a sauce, alongside rice, plantains, or other root vegetables like yam, taro, or sweet potatoes.

Grand’Anse

The department of Grand’Anse, whose capital is Jérémie, is famous for its tonmtonm; a dish originally from Africa, imported to the Caribbean via the slave trade. Tonmtonm is a preparation of pounded breadfruit served with a gonbo sauce — made with okra — usually eaten with the hands. Tradition dictates that the tonmtonm be swallowed without chewing to really appreciate all its flavors.

Grand’Anse is also the home of konparèt: thick, hearty, sweet biscuits made with flour, sugar, and milk, with delicious flavors. It can be eaten as an appetizer, but be careful not to overdo it; it is quite filling.

two plates with mashed breadfruit and haitian tonmtonm
Haitian tonmtonm
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Ouest

The city of Petit-Goâve is noted for its dous makòs; a very sweet milk-based fudge that melts slowly on the tongue. If you stop by Petit-Goâve, a good size piece of dous makòs will make for a great dessert after a plate of freshly-cooked seafood.

Nord

On the other side of the island, up north, everyone agrees that the city of Cap-Haïtien is well-furnished in talented cooks. Hoping to capitalise on this reputation, new restaurants pop up in the city fairly often, meaning there’s always something new to try (and new entrepreneurs to support) for return visitors.

Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Artibonite

Artibonite, just southwest of the Nord department, is Haiti’s HQ for rice and lalo, a stew originating in Africa. Also called Egyptian spinach and West African sorrel, lalo is the local name for jute. In the US and Europe, jute might be better known as a source of rope fibre, but here in Haiti (and across most of Africa and Asia) this multitalented plant is more widely used in cooking.

To make lalo, fresh, bright jute leaves are picked off of the plant and stewed with spinach, onions, peppers, and garlic as well as creole-seasoned cuts of fish or meat. Setting itself apart from lalo dishes available throughout the Artibonite province – and making it especially worth stopping to try – lalo in Montrouis is made with freshly caught sea crabs.

two plates with haitian lalo and rice
Haitian lalo with rice
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

And wherever you go, you’ll find…

Sweet potatoes and corn.

Sweet potatoes feature in several classic Haitian recipes, such as patat ak lèt (potato with milk), made by boiling the potato first, peeling it, then pouring sweet milk onto it, with just a touch of salt, to bring out its natural flavors.

Corn is eaten all over the country as part of many meals. In its most basic form, this staple appears as hot, creamy polenta — called mayi moulen in Haiti. Corn can also be boiled (what a pleasure it is to bite into a juicy corn cob, flavored with the sauce it was boiled in!). It’s the main ingredient in konsonmen, a stew of corn, rice, beans, and other delicious ingredients. Corn also features in tchaka; a thick and rich stew featuring corn, meat (lots of meat) mixed with vegetables and bean purée. You’ll also find corn smoked, and in pèt-pèt. Pèt-pèt is actually just popcorn, but we have to mention this because its Haitian name is just such a joy to say!

Take a culinary trip around Haiti!

A map of Haiti cannot be drawn with just hills and valleys, mountains and beach fronts. Instead of relying solely on a physical itinerary, how about using your current — or next trip — as a way to get to know Haiti through its different flavors? Bold, but always balanced, Haitian cuisine is as varied and nuanced as the people of the island.


Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2022


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Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

dramatic haitian coastline with jungle forest and speed boat
Anse Baguette beach near Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

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If you’re anything like us, the need for you to connect or even be in Haiti at this moment in time has been stronger than ever before. The last sixteen months have proven to be challenging in ways both familiar and new, and have pushed us to adapt in ways we never would’ve thought possible. As Haiti weathers the storms of the ongoing pandemic, sociopolitical unrest, and the assassination of former president Jovenel Moïse, the feeling of longing for Haiti—and in a way, for those on the island who make us feel like we’re home—is hard to fight off.

Since July 7, Haiti has felt like a liminal space where no one is quite sure where to stand or how to behave. The news of Jovenel Moïse’s assassination shook the capital as hard as it did the surrounding cities and far-away provinces. In the days following the killing, the streets of Port-au-Prince were quieter than they usually are on Sundays; worry and anticipation tainted the air, and people hesitated to venture outside for fear of what would happen next. Even though in the days since, things seem to have regained some kind of normalcy, it is very clear to everyone in Haiti that there is no going “back to normal” at the moment.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings
Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

This leaves people like us—and people like you, too, who are enamored with Haiti, and who want nothing but to run and embrace the island—lost and confused. If the pandemic wasn’t a good time to travel to Haiti for just any reason, the recent events are even more reason to rethink purchasing a plane ticket. Just like you may be anxious to fly in for your summer vacation, we are anxious to recommend that you do so.

What we feel comfortable and eager doing, though, is recommending that you visit Haiti from home.

Right here, on Visit Haiti.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat
Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Cook Your Way Through the Island

One of our favorite things about Haiti is how accessible the country’s history and culture is through its cuisine. A lot of Haitian fruit is accessible in foreign markets, like the unmistakable Haitian mango; consider shopping at your local Caribbean shop for some of our favorite summer flavors. This is also the perfect opportunity to order some of the best rum Haiti has to offer and consider a home tasting. We love how these rums shine next to Haiti’s hall-of-fame dishes, too.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Bring the Outside Inside

If you’re a lover of nature, you might enjoy trying to spot some of Haiti’s wildlife in your neighborhood on the weekend. You’ll be pleased to know that Haiti is home to some really awesome forests, such as Forêt des Pins, too— which you’ll definitely want to put down on your list of places to see on your next trip. We have good news for avid birdwatchers, too: you can probably spot some of Haiti’s winged wildlife where you live.

A woman wearing a bikini relaxes in a window holding a book
Book reading in Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

Learn the Colors of Haiti’s Culture

Now is also a good time to read up on the richness of Haitian heritage and culture, which is sure to taint every step you take around the island as soon as you’re able to travel to Haiti again. We highly recommend checking out what to do at a vodou ceremony, or where to meet and buy from Haiti’s finest metal-workers. And until you can safely make it to the island, our How Haitian Are You quiz and Best books about Haiti Reading List are a good way to make sure you stay on your toes by the time your next trip comes around.

aerial view of coastal village with market area and boats
Sun rising over the port of Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Visit Haiti, Right From Your Screen

One of the ways we are excited to help you visit Haiti from the comfort of your home is through our photo journals. Tag along on a visual and virtual tour of the island. Our photo journals come courtesy of Haitian photographers, and feature different regions all over the country. Right now, you can take a mini-trip to Saint-MarcGrand’Anse, or even Marigot.

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf
Ann-Sophie in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Ted Olivier Mompérousse

Meet Haiti, Meet the Locals

In another effort to bring you closer to Haiti and its resilient, inspiring, and bright people, we are also pumped to introduce you to our Meet the Locals series. It’s no secret that Haiti and Haitians carry a bold streak; it shows in the food, and it shows in the music. What we want to share is how each individual Haitian contributes to painting the colorful picture that is Haiti today. You can start here, by reading our interview with Ann-Sophie Hamilton, a sustainable tourism advocate.

And watch our video where we speak to Isaac, a painter from Dame-Marie.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2021


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

a plate of haitian food
Fritay at 5 Coins, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

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Haiti is a land of bold flavours, bright colours, intoxicating music, mischievous spirits and a heady mix of cultures. Haitian creole cuisine is built on fresh seafood, island-grown greens and exotic fruits, all full of West Indies spices and an often surprising mix of elements both familiar and strange.

The fast-service restaurant concept hasn’t yet washed ashore in Haiti, so be ready to lean into the luxury that is island time: even in the capital city, everything has an unhurried, unpretentious atmosphere. Sipping rum sours in a palm-fringed patio or lounging around in an airy, high-ceilinged colonial dining room while you wait is a great way to sink into the Caribbean vibes.

Here is our ultimate guide on where to find the best Haitian eats for every taste:

a plate of haitian food
Fritay at 5 Coins, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

1. Fritay at 5 Coins

The cornerstone of Haitian cuisine, fritay is the best place to start your Haitian food journey. 5 Coins is one of the most well-known names in the business, with five kitchens throughout metropolitan Port-au-Prince. They offer all the classic fritay dishes: bannann peze (fried plantains), griyo (fried pork), akra (malanga fritters), lam fri (fried breadfruit) and fried chicken – all supplemented with Caribbean staples – rice and peas – or specialty sides.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat
Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

2. Fish at Le Coin des Artistes – Vivano

Seafood straight from the surf is unbeatable. For the best fresh fish in Port-au-Prince, drop into Le Coin des Artistes — Vivano. Because their fish is always sustainably caught on their own restaurant-owned properties, your meal is supporting best-practice fishing in Haiti. You can ask for your fish to be either pwason griye (grilled) or an sòs (stewed).

plate with conch gratine and slices of bread
Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

3. Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant

Head downtown to the Pacot district for the treasure that is Gingerbread Restaurant. Their gratine lanbi (conch gratinée) alone is worth the trip. Locally known as lambi, conch is a mollusc native to the waters of the Bahamas but popular throughout the Caribbean islands. A step above the standard lanbi an sòs (stewed conch), this is a Haitian foodie experience to savour. The rich sauce of the gratinée envelops tender bits of conch, rendering them even more flavorful than they are naturally. A real culinary delight!

plate with pizza topped with shrimp, onions and cheese
Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

4. Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou

Interested in what Haitian cuisine can do when it fuzes with food from other countries? Look no further than Yanvalou’s shrimp pizza! A specialty of the house, it’s the perfect cross between the mellow, indulgent feeling you get from enjoying pizza, heightened by the fresh taste of tender bits of shrimp scattered on top. Down a slice along with a rum sour in the leafy patio.

colofull restaurant area with tables and chairs
La Coquille restaurant in Pétion-Ville
Photo: La Coquille

5. Buffet at La Coquille

Come hungry to La Coquille! This popular Pétion-Ville restaurant houses one of the most well-known Haitian cuisine buffets in the capital. Work your way through fried pork, fried chicken, stewed conch, and goat — alongside a selection of rice-centric sides, depending on what is available that day. White rice and black bean sauce, rice and peas, djondjon rice…dessert is included as well!

6. Griyo (fried pork) at Au Bon Griot

A quick drive outside of Pétion-Ville you’ll find Au Bon Griot, one of the best places in the area of Boutilier for griyo (fried pork). While it’s one of those hole-in-the-wall places, it definitely is somewhere worth stopping. Made fresh to order, the griyo comes with a generous helping of fried plantains and pikliz. What better way to enjoy griyo than overlooking the city of Port-au-Prince?

7. Fettucine Djondjon at Karibe Hotel

If you’ve tried djondjon rice, you know this tiny mushroom packs a punch. Native to Haiti, djondjon mushrooms are known for their “exquisite color, taste and aroma.” For a dish that makes the most of this unique ingredient, stop by the restaurant at Karibe Hotel in Juvénat for their specialty – djondjon fettucine! The rich, velvety pasta sauce is made inky black by the exotic djondjon.

8. Soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Kinam Hotel

You’ve read all about it – now treat yourself to a warm and comforting bowl of soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Pétion-Ville’s Kinam Hotel. Filled with pasta and rustic chunks of carrots, potatoes, and meat, this soup is an already hearty meal, but some people enjoy it with freshly toasted bread, which you can request. Soup Joumou on Sundays is a cultural institution in Haiti, and there’s no better way to kick off your week!

Outside Port-au-Prince?

That’s Port-au-Prince covered, but what about the rest of the country?

hands holding a sandwich with meat
Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff

Out touring the hills of Thomassin or Fermathe? You’re not far away from the area of Kenscoff, where the specialty of bib is extremely popular. What is a bib? Simply put, it’s a sandwich that features fried pork meat and pikliz (a spicy relish and a crucial in Haitian creole cuisine) in soft, pillowy bread. No formal restaurant here, just a hole-in-the-wall place just past the police department of Kenscoff, but a must-try foodie experience nonetheless!

waiter holder a plate of grilled goat meat with carrots and potatoes
Kabrit griye at Ranch Le Montcel, Kenscoff
Photo: Ranch Le Montcel

10. Kabrit griye (grilled goat) at Le Montcel, Kenscoff

Sustainably-raised meat is more common than you might expect in this island nation. One of the best places to taste the creole dish kabrit griye (grilled goat) is Le Montcel. A sprawling property set into the hills of Kenscoff, Le Montcel is able to grow a lot of its own produce and raise its own animals. This makes for one of the most succulent griyo, which pulls apart wonderfully!

11. Mayi moulen ak fèy (cornmeal and spinach) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

One of the pleasures of waking up in Cap-Haïtien is getting breakfast on the boulevard. We recommend stopping by Boukanye, where you can enjoy a hearty, flavorful breakfast of mayi moulen ak fèy!

While mayi moulen (polenta) is usually eaten as the major part of a midday or evening meal, it is prepared here for breakfast as mayi moulen ak fèy, served with spinach and kipper. Even better with freshly sliced avocado! In season (roughly august-november) avocados are so abundant on Haiti that you can afford to eat them for breakfast every day – and pay off your mortgage too.

12. Poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

Visit pirate-themed bar and grill Boukanye in Cap-Haïtien to try the North Haitian specialty of poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews). Cashews grow around Cap-Haïtien and are used liberally in local cuisine. In this signature northern dish, succulent strips of chicken stirred through a flavorful, savory sauce, and topped with halved cashews. Usually enjoyed with a generous side of white rice, or rice and peas.

13. Lanbi an sòs (stewed conch) at Lakay, Cap-Haïtien

Lakay in Cap-Haïtien is one of the best places to get lunch. If you happen to be in the area, we recommend getting the lanbi an sòs (stewed conch)! The stewed-to-perfection conch melts in your mouth. The house standard is served with rice but you can request fried plantains or fried potatoes to make for an even more robust meal – great if you’ve been out hiking or swimming all morning.

vendor cutting pieces of gingerbread
Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) in Les Cayes
Photo: Franck Fontain

14. Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) from Les Cayes

Wander up to the crossroads of Quatre-Chemins in Les Cayes to find the delicacy that is bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread). Thick, sweet, and filling, it is the kind of dessert you enjoy with a cup of coffee or tea. It’s like giving your tastebuds a big warm hug.

milk fudge wrapped in plastic
Dous makòs (milk fudge) in Petit-Goâve
Photo: Franck Fontain

15. Dous makòs (milk fudge) from Petit-Goâve

For those who have a curious sweet tooth, the town of Petit-Goâve is the place to go. Here you’ll find dous makòs (milk fudge); a wonderfully decadent tri-color sweet treat. Sugar, milk, condensed milk, and a slew of warming spices like vanilla, nutmeg, and cinnamon come together over high heat, are poured into molds to cool, then sliced into the delicious, rich slabs of dous makòs fudge.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2021


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