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Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre

the gardens at Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre, Haiti
Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre
Photo: Franck Fontain

Visit Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre

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What was Caribbean plantation life like? See for yourself!

With its well-preserved cane pressing machinery, distilleries and historical buildings, spread over multiple acres, a visit here offers tactile insight into the days when it was fully-functioning, in the era when Haiti was in the last stages of its struggle for independence. Up to the early 19th century, cane sugar and its products played a huge role in Haiti’s internal economy and international trade. The museum pays tribute to the role Haiti played in the global balance of power at the time.

The museum’s formal buildings are divided into themed rooms. One of the most popular is the Taíno-Amerindian room. It contains original artifacts from the pre-Colombus era, when Hispaniola was populated by Taíno and Arawak Amerindians. The household items and religious relics provide a treasure of insight into life before Christopher Columbus’ arrival in 1492.

Taking a guided tour through the park is a great way to understand more of what you’ll see. In the grounds you’ll stumble across a genuine steam engine parked on the grass. Follow the stone paths and you’ll find water mills, aqueducts, a rum distillery, and many other vestiges of plantation life. Everything has been preserved in its original form by the Auguste family. History buffs are in for a treat.

Events

As well as serving as Haiti’s premiere colonial era museum, the former plantation also hosts a variety of forward-focused cultural events. Jazz festivals have been taking place since 2007 and every December the park holds open-air concerts with Haitian headliners like Ram and Tabou Combo.

The annual October artisan market, Artisanat en Fete, is Haiti’s biggest craft fair. Every year 200-300 Haitian artisans are invited to Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre to sell their wares. Thousands of tourists and residents descend on the Parc to do early Christmas shopping over a long weekend.

At the Artisanat en Fete you’ll find the full gamut of artisan products, from food, wine, honey and hot sauces to handbags, fashion, home décor, hammered metal and living room sets carved out of driftwood. It’s a three day extravaganza of food, shopping, and networking that cannot be missed!

The park has been updated to include some post-1800 comforts like bathrooms, restaurant stalls, and pavilions, making it a pleasant way to spend a day. Stone pathways zig-zag through the grass and when the tropical trees are in bloom the falling red flowers lay a flame-colored carpet across the grass.

Getting there

To find Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre, drive down Boulevard du 15 Octobre until you reach the American Embassy. The park’s main entrance is located across the street behind decorative metal fences arched in bougainvillea flowers.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published April 2019


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Sans-Souci Palace

Aerial view of Sans-Souci Palace, Haiti, with tree-covered mountains in the background
Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Sans-Souci Palace

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Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferrière. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

Sans-Souci Palace, which translates to ‘the Worry-Free Palace’, dates back to 1811, just after Haiti had become the world’s first independent black republic. Despite the weight of time – and a significant earthquake during the nineteenth century – the ruins of the Sans-Souci Palace maintain an imposing air and stand as an inspiring testament to the opulent post-revolutionary era.

Visitors can spend an hour or two exploring the palace and grounds before heading onward to the Citadelle.

History

The Sans-Souci Palace was built to serve as a residence for the revolutionary leader Henri Christophe, who would become king in 1811, a year into the palace’s construction. The palace was one of many lavish constructions Christophe ordered at that time, including the Citadelle Laferrière.

Christophe used his reign as an opportunity to build up Haiti’s standing in the eyes of the international community – particularly its former colonizer, France. Christophe was well known for the luxurious parties and feasts he hosted at the palace, and the palace’s design – from the lush gardens to the intricate waterworks installation still visible in the ruins – reflects this luxury.

The name “Sans-Souci” itself came from another Haitian revolutionary, Jean-Baptiste Sans Souci, who Christophe had asked to form a united front with, but who refused out of mistrust. A decade or so before the palace was built, Christophe invited Sans Souci to visit him. When Sans Souci accepted, he was promptly assaulted by Christophe’s guards – and legend has it that the palace bearing his name was built where he was killed.

Visiting the north of Haiti is a great way to brush up on Haiti’s history; here, visitors can see many of the country’s important landmarks, historic sites, and monuments dedicated to the memories and visions of pivotal figures in Haiti’s history.

Aerial view of the ruins of Sans-Souci Palace, Haiti
Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Where to eat

Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent, and huge, traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Where to sleep

Most travellers visiting Sans Souci and the Citadelle stay in Cap-Haïtien as accommodation options in Milot are fairly basic.

Getting there

Sans-Souci is located in Haiti’s North Department, close to the town of Milot.

Culturally curious travellers are well-advised to carve out a chunk of time for exploring the north of Haiti. While the capital city of Port-au-Prince and the entire South of the country are full of gorgeous destinations and exciting things to do, the North of Haiti is where a lot of the country’s history has its roots. Cap-Haïtien is the perfect base, and with the recent opening of the airport to international flights, visitors no longer need to arrive in Port-au-Prince first. Around a half-hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien is Milot, the jumping-off point for hikes to the UNESCO site.

For a small, negotiable, fee, a local guide will lead individuals or groups from nearby Milot up to the palace and guide you to the areas open to the public, which can otherwise be difficult to distinguish. A fair fee for a guide is US$20 to US$30, plus a fee for hiring a horse.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019


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Port-au-Prince City Guide

Sunset over Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Sunset over Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

City Guide: Port-au-Prince

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Just a two-hour flight from Miami, Port-au-Prince will probably be your first stop in Haiti, and the best way to find the pulse of a country is to take a few steps in its capital city.

About 1 million people live in the metropolitan area, with another 1.5 million living on the surrounding hills and coastline. Although some areas are troubled (as with any populous city), Port-au-Prince has several upmarket districts where visitors can safely stay and explore on their own.

Group of Haitians on stage below the Petion-Ville library in Port-au-Prince
View from the Petion-Ville library
Photo: Anton Lau

The basics

Vacationers looking for a comfortable Caribbean holiday on a budget will find Port-au-Prince a great place to easily book hotels, rent cars, dine at a variety of restaurants, and head out to party on weekends. Those who are seeking more authentic accommodation in Haiti (such as Airbnb or staying with a host) need to be prepared for a few things – unpredictable power outages being the most important.

Once you’ve got that down, though, Port-au-Prince is a rich and colorful delight that keeps travellers coming back for more. There are so many pockets and places to explore, but we’ve got the essentials covered!

Colorful canvases on display along Rue Pinchinat, Petion-Ville
Paintings on display at Rue Pinchinat in Petion Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

Art & Culture

Jacmel may be called the cultural capital of Haiti, but the streets of Port-au-Prince are overflowing with art and artist-led initiatives are thriving.

For an introduction to Haitian arts and crafts, we recommend walking along Place Saint-Pierre, especially the block surrounding Institution Saint-Joseph. Here, artisans arrive early to set up temporary displays of paintings, sculptures, woodwork and trinkets for you to browse and haggle over.

Champ de Mars is another key destination for Haitian handcrafts. The artisans here specialise in bold jewelry and leather goods such as sandals and bags. The stall owners are business people as well as artisans, so expect to haggle, but given the relative cost of living here it’s still easy to find a price that supports the artist and offers visitors a bargain.

If you want to visit an art gallery, we recommend Galerie Monnin in Laboule, as well as Carré Zémès in Thomassin. Both are open to the public and feature eclectic collections of work from Haitian artists working in paint, sculpture and other media.

Two people hiking a trail above Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Hiking above Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Urban adventure

Looking for a top-notch outdoors experience without leaving Port-au-Prince?

Fort Jacques is an easy, accessible option if you are looking to get some time in nature, or want to picnic with a view. If you drive up in a car, expect to pay locals a small fee for park maintenance, or for parking safety. For those who are looking to get some hiking under their belt, the Boukan waterfall is a great place to start. Make sure you head there with a guide – preferably someone from the area of Fermathe.

Other places to get a breath of fresh air are Boutillier, Obléon and Furcy – a bit farther out of Pétion-Ville, but definitely worth the drive. Remember to pack a jacket in case it gets chilly – up in the hills the temperature can drop surprisingly quickly!

Hang out with locals

In the mood for a morning, midday, or afternoon stroll? Port-au-Prince is full of public squares where you can soak up the tropical sun and Haiti’s vibrant island atmosphere.

If you are in Pétion-Ville, you have the choice between Place Boyer and Place Saint-Pierre. Downtown? Champ de Mars is the place to go! This is where most Haitians in the capital spend time between classes if they’re students, between shifts if they’re street vendors, or meeting friends en route.

At most squares you’ll find merchants selling street food and drinks. For an authentic Haitian treat – and relief from the Caribbean heat – look for a vendor selling snow-cones known as Fresko.

Group eating dinner at Yanvalou in Pacot, Haiti
Yanvalou in Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

Where to eat

Hungry? With a diversity of cooking traditions and ingredients sourced from around the island, Port-au-Prince is Haiti’s culinary capital! Head over to La Coquille in Pétion-Ville for their Haitian food buffet, where you will be able to try the different types of rice and meats available that day, as well as a complimentary dessert.

If you are eager to try Haitian seafood, but haven’t yet scheduled your beach getaway, fear not! Vivano, also known as Coin des Artistes, is the place to go. Here, make sure you try the grilled fish, as well as the stewed fish, with a side of either crispy fried plantains or fried potatoes. If you happen to be in Haiti outside of lobster mating season (which runs officially from April 1st to June 30th), you will definitely want to try this Caribbean delicacy!

Karibe Hotel offers delicious Haitian cuisine in a more calm, relaxed, tropical setting. The hotel’s greenery transports you to an atmosphere outside of the city, letting you soak up those Caribbean island vibes without leaving Port-au-Prince.

Where to drink

Fancy a cocktail?

If you’re in Pétion-Ville, Fubar is a great place to start for all types of cocktails. Asu is a more high-end option, with delicious mojitos and a view to match. Downtown, Yanvalou has the best rum sours, and you will definitely want to stop at Gingerbread for their house-made cocktail mixes.

The beer standard in Haiti is an ice-cold (or byen frape, in Kreyòl) Prestige!

Where to party

Port-au-Prince is a nightlife powerhouse. While a variety of DJ parties happen every week, you can count on at least two events come rain or shine. The first is Live Groove on Thursdays at Yanvalou, in Pacot, and the second is Flashback Friday at Fubar, in Pétion-Ville.

If you are not able to make it to Yanvalou’s Live Groove or Fubar’s Flashback Friday, you can almost always catch a resident or rising DJ at a fan-favorite bar or restaurant – Asu, for example, often hosts young talent.

If you are more into live music, head over to Vivano or to Presse Café – both in Pétion-Ville – for the best in authentic troubadour or konpa music.

Haitian boy jumping into water at Bassin Général, Croix-des-Bouquets
People swimming at Bassin Général, Croix-des-Bouquets
Photo: Franck Fontain

Who should go?

If you only plan to visit one place in the Caribbean, Port-au-Prince offers intrepid travellers excellent value.

It’s the hub of activity in Haiti, and offers visitors a taste of everything this island has to offer: music, art and festivals for travellers looking to immerse themselves in a new culture; beaches and parties for a fun summer break; and peaceful, quiet corners for the solo-traveler. Port-au-Prince is also a great place to explore Haiti’s unique place in history as the first Caribbean nation to successfully throw off colonial rule.

A city finds its rhythm in the lives of its people – how will you dance along to daily life in Port-au-Prince during your stay?


Written by Kelly Paulemon.


Published March 2019


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The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

A green yacht in aqua waters just off the beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

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We’ve rounded up a list of the best destinations for you to kick your feet up, relax, and enjoy the best Haiti’s coasts have to offer!

All of the destinations listed here can be reached by car – it’s easy to hire one in Port-au-Prince, but book ahead if you can. For an adventurous traveller fluent in French or Kreol, a journey via tap-tap to either Jacmel or Cap-Haïtien is an experience you won’t find anywhere else in the world, but for first-time visitors, we recommend hiring a car or driver.

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise hotel and restaurant in Jacmel, Haiti
Alliance Francaise in Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

01. Jacmel

For international travellers, Jacmel is famous mostly for its annual carnival. Located in the south, with a vibrant festival and music scene steeped in history, and plenty of bars to choose from, Jacmel might be considered Haiti’s New Orleans.

From beautiful beaches to fantastic festivals and an endless array of artistic expression, this city is the cultural capital of Haiti. Just a two-hour drive southwest of Port-au-Prince, Jacmel is also one of the most accessible destinations.

Around 15km east of Jacmel you’ll find the fishing village of Cayes-Jacmel, where most of the rocking chairs you’ll see around Haiti are made. A few more kilometers east and you’ll come to Plage Ti Mouillage, a stunning white-sand beach framed by coconut palms, with a bar stocked with ice-cold drinks and fresh seafood.  

Further east, you’ll find gorgeous Marigot. A coffee-growing town, Marigot has rated several times in Haiti’s top-ten communes. For a very reasonable price, you can wake up in an excellent boutique hotel with ocean views, the sounds of roosters crowing, and the smell of home-grown coffee roasting. 

Lounge chairs beneath trees at Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve, Haiti
Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve
Photo: Anton Lau

02. Village Taino, Grand-Goâve

Two hours west of Port-au-Prince is a small oasis, nestled among the tall trees of Grand-Goâve. Grand-Goâve is one of the oldest settlements in Haiti – its name dates back to the Amerindians who called it home before the arrival of Spanish colonists in the 16th century.

Village Taino is a set of beachside bungalows that opens up on the powdery sands of Haiti’s southern peninsula. If you like your beach escapes to be secluded and exclusive, you will enjoy the privacy of the bungalows, as well as the daily catered seafood, caught and cooked on location.

Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Photo: Bowerbill, Wikimedia Commons

03. Royal Decameron, Montrouis

Looking for world-class beachside relaxation? Royal Decameron, smack in the middle of the Arcadins coast, is your go-to for an all-inclusive experience in Haiti. With spacious rooms, swimming pools, authentic Haitian food, and recurring activities to keep you entertained throughout the days and evenings, it really is the easiest place to go for a weekend of unscripted relaxation and fun!

beach with people swimming and small wooden boat
People swiming at Amani-y Beach in Saint-Marc
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Amani-y Beach, Saint-Marc

Looking for something outside the popular beach resorts of the Arcadins coast? Amani-y Beach may be the treasure you seek. Located close by La Colline Hotel, it is one of Saint-Marc’s most picturesque beaches. Surrounded by the tree-clad hills that border Baie de Sant-Marc, clear blue waters stretch out for miles. Amani-y Beach offers all of the island flair with none of the touristic fuss.

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti
Cap Haitien Labadi
Photo: Verdy Verna

05. Cap-Haïtien

Accessible via car, if you’re into sightseeing; tap-tap, if you’re here for adventure; or plane if you can’t wait to get there, Cap-Haïtien is one of those cities you need a couple of days set aside to explore.

The beach of Cormier is one of the most underappreciated on the island – and only about twenty minutes away from the main city by car. The food options on the main boulevard, which you can walk to from most hotels, are mouthwatering and many – Lakay? Boukanye? Cap Deli? Barik? Lolo? Come hungry!

Deck chair under a thatch umbrella at Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

06. Abaka Bay Resort, Île-à-Vache

Île-à-Vache is a magical place. Ever wondered what it would be like to live on a small island, just enjoying the pleasures of the sea lapping at your feet under a palm tree? Abaka Bay Resort is the place for you. Between horseback riding, kayaking, and peaceful walks on the shore in the evening, you might even find time to finish your book. This is an enchanting destination for travellers seeking quality rest and relaxation.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2019


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Gelée Beach

Boat anchored in turquoise water off Gelée Beach, Haiti
Gelée Beach, Haiti
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Gelée Beach

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Situated in the heart of the Caribbean, between Cuba and the Dominican Republic, Haiti has over a thousand miles of coastline with dozens of destination-worthy beaches.

We’re talking white sand and turquoise water swelling up to coconut palms, chalk cliffs or jungle-clad mountains rolling off into the distance. Whether you choose one of the island’s most treasured coves or one of its many undiscovered wonders, the water here is warm all year round.

Gelée Beach

Located near Les Cayes in southern Haiti, Gelée Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Haiti. Highlights including the beachside fritay merchants and the chance to see cows grazing in fields that reach almost to the water’s edge. Compared to other popular beaches in Haiti, the surrounds are flat and open. Pastoral scenery notwithstanding, the water is tropical and the swimming here is lush.

The beach itself winds around the southern coastline for miles, with soft, pillowy sand melting into some of the most crystal clear waters you’ll find anywhere on the island – or in the Caribbean, for that matter.

Grab a bite

Colorful shacks of food vendors dot the treeline. The number of them is a testament to how popular Gelee beach is and how good the seafood is here. If you’ve already tried Haitian cuisine in Port-au-Prince, you’ll be familiar with the fried plantains and meat – typically called fritay, but don’t miss the chance to try the locally-caught seafood.

If you find the queues for the beachside food overwhelming, you’ll find a choice of restaurants and hotels a short drive from the beach.

At night, Gelée transforms into a lively, well-lit destination for dinner by the shore. The broad boulevard fills with music and foot traffic. People flock to the beach for Gelée’s specialty – grilled fish with fried plantains. Avoid a long wait by going with a local who can walk right up to their vendor of choice and order the right way.

Watch our video of the twoubadou band Tet Ansanm Twouba from Gelée Beach.

Getting there

Gelée beach is a twenty minute drive from downtown Les Cayes. As city gives way to surf, the road gives way to a sandy dirt track. Park off Route de Gelee and walk through the main entrance to the beach – the one closest to the bars and music – to be welcomed by the most picturesque view of the beach.

When to go

Every year, on August 15, the residents of Les Cayes celebrate Patron Saint festival of Our Lady of the Assumption. Thousands of people from all parts of Haiti and from the diaspora come to Les Cayes to participate in the festivities. If August 15 falls on a Friday, some extend their stay to the whole weekend.

During the festival, music can be heard from every rooftop, sidewalk, and front door of the city. There are plenty of activities for kids, and the highlight is the kite building and flying contest in Gelée, where adults and children come together. Kite-flying is hugely popular in Haiti, and has an entire season dedicated to it: kite season!

For a vibrant slice of Haitian summer life, August 15 is the perfect time to visit Gelée and Les Cayes.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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Day-trip to Haiti’s prettiest lake

Two friends relaxing by Lake Péligre, Haiti
Friends relaxing by Lake Péligre
Photo: Franck Fontain

Day-trip to Haiti’s prettiest lake

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About three hours north east of Port-au-Prince, tucked away in the central highlands, Lake Peligre is Haiti’s second-largest lake. But what exactly makes Lake Péligre worth making a detour for?

The creation of this man-made lake is not without controversy, but after six decades, a new thriving ecosystem is settling into place. Fishermen are drawn to the large numbers of fish that live there, and travellers are drawn to its pristine beauty.

The tops of the highlands plunge like fjords into the lake, flanking it dramatically on all sides. On a clear day, the sun mirrors of off green-blue waters that seem to stretch on for miles and miles into the horizon. Calm, sunny days are when the lake is most pleasant to visit – and at its most photogenic.

The wall of the Péligre hydroelectric dam, Haiti
Péligre hydroelectric dam
Photo: Franck Fontain

The hydroelectric dam

Between 1956 and 1957, Lake Péligre was created as a result of the Péligre hydroelectric dam, built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. When the rivers were dammed and the lake flooded the highlands, several Haitian families were displaced, the fertile land they relied on to make a living was inundated, and much was lost by many who had very little to begin with.

Sixty years later, Lake Péligre still stands as an engineering marvel in Haiti, and the hydroelectric power plant of Péligre remains an important source of electricity for the island’s inhabitants.

Why is Lake Péligre green?

Nature enthusiasts visiting Haiti will wonder about this peculiar hue – the waters turn green because of two things. The first is the large amount of plankton – small organisms that live in large bodies of water – and the second is the large amount of organic matter that flows through the river openings connected to the lake. These two factors make Lake Péligre an extremely fertile environment, and that’s why it’s one of the largest contributors to fishing in Haiti!

A trip to Lake Péligre is one of the best ways to escape the city environment, and dive into one of the refreshing outdoor wonders the island has to offer.

Aerial view of Lake Péligre and surrounding hills, Haiti
Lake Péligre
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

The drive to Lake Péligre from Port-au-Prince is about three hours. Due to traffic – at any time of the year, really – the earlier in the day you leave Port-au-Prince, the quicker you will reach your final destination! We recommend setting off early in the morning so you can drive back to Port-au-Prince on the same day.

To get there, you will drive through the areas of Mirebalais, then Cangé and Thomonde, before making your way south towards the lake.

As you get closer, the roadside opens up to a breathtaking view of Lake Péligre in all its glory. A morning drive to the lake is particularly gratifying, as the morning rays brush over the calm, glittering water while you drive by.

To truly discover the treasures of Haiti, you really need to get out there and travel around the island. If you are basing yourself in a big city like Port-au-Prince, it’s easy to escape on dozens of day trips to destinations in all directions.

Standing by the side of the road and taking in the fullness of Lake Péligre – its sheer size, the green colors and scents, and the dramatic mountains surrounding it all, you’ll be glad you made the trip.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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