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Citadelle Henri

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière and mountain range, Haiti
Citadelle Laferrière, Milot
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Citadelle Henri

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Citadelle Henri, known to locals simply as La Citadelle, is the largest fortress in the Americas. Haitians call it the eighth wonder of the world and, if you make it up the summit of Pic Laferrière, you’ll see why.

The mountaintop fortress is massive, rising a vertiginous hundred and thirty feet from the mountaintop of Bonnet a L’Eveque, around 3000 feet above sea level. The Citadelle commands unparalleled views in every direction over the surrounding landscape of jungle-clad mountains, rivers and ocean.

What You’ll See

The imposing structure was built to demonstrate the power of a newly-independent Haiti, but also to protect its citizens if the French attempted to retake the nation. The 100,000 square feet building includes several cisterns and storehouses, designed to provide enough food and water for the royal family and up to 5000 people to survive an entire year under siege.

The Citadelle is equipped with over 150 cannons – mostly captured in battle from the English, the French and the Spanish – and thousands of cannon balls, once over 50,000 in total. With such an armory and walls over 13 feet wide and 100 feet high, the fortress was impenetrable.

Fortunately, the French never returned, the canons were never fired in combat, and the Citadelle is much the same today as it was 200 years ago.

Visitors can spend a few hours exploring the historic site. You’ll discover ramparts, drawbridges, canon batteries, galleries, corridors, hidden passages and blind corners designed to outwit invaders. Most of the windows and ramparts overlook sheer drops down the flanks of Pic Laferrière, and beyond that offer spectacular views of the north of Haiti. Inside the courtyard there’s a brand-new museum, gallery and restroom, as well as a small gift shop selling drinks and postcards.

Citadelle Laferrière is Haiti’s most popular tourist destination for Haitians and visitors alike, and occupies a visible place of pride in Haitian culture. You’ll recognise the signature triangular façade on 5 HTG coins and 100 HTG bills, and on the covers of children’s school textbooks.

citadelle Laferrière, Haiti, with mountains in background
Citadelle Laferrière in Milot
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

History

Citadelle Laferrière was constructed between 1805 and 1820, after the African-descended population of Haiti led a successful revolution to throw off their colonial enslavers and declare independence from France. It took 15 years and 20,000 people to build.

Citadelle Laferrière was part of a larger fortification system which included Fort Jacques and Fort Alexandre; all built to protect Haiti from future attacks by colonizers who might sail over from neighboring islands. While other forts were built earlier as part of the revolution, the construction of Citadelle Laferrière was ordered by Henri Christophe in 1805, in the year following the achievement of independence.

The Citadelle towers one hundred and thirty feet over the mountaintop, but even standing at the base of the fortress, you can see far out to sea. More importantly, the Citadelle could be seen from far out at sea – the fortress was a sign to any would-be challengers sailing toward the newly-free nation that Haiti was prepared to defend itself. Overseen by Christophe, construction of the Citadelle was completed in 1820.

A woman hikes up the path to Citadelle Laferrière, Haiti
Citadelle Laferrière, Haiti
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Getting there

The Citadelle is located in the town of Milot, a six- to eight-hour drive north of Port-au-Prince.

The path to the Citadelle begins near the entrance to the nearby Sans-Souci Palace. Here, you will be asked to pay a small fee, and a local guide can accompany you to the top. You’ll also find vendors at Sans-Souci, offering drinks and snacks to fuel your hike and souvenirs once you’ve returned.

To make your way up the summit to the Citadelle itself, you have two options: hiking on foot or, for US$15, riding on horseback. Both options are just as scenic and authentic, and both offer their own type of adventure.

The route from Sans-Souci to the Citadalle is only 4 miles (6.5 kilometers) but the climb is significant at over 2000 feet (700 metres), so expect the hike to take you more than two hours. For this reason, you might prefer to stay overnight in Milot or Cap-Haïtien rather than attempting the hike after a long trip from Port-au-Prince or elsewhere.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Port-au-Prince City Guide

Sunset over Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Sunset over Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

City Guide: Port-au-Prince

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Just a two-hour flight from Miami, Port-au-Prince will probably be your first stop in Haiti, and the best way to find the pulse of a country is to take a few steps in its capital city.

About 1 million people live in the metropolitan area, with another 1.5 million living on the surrounding hills and coastline. Although some areas are troubled (as with any populous city), Port-au-Prince has several upmarket districts where visitors can safely stay and explore on their own.

Group of Haitians on stage below the Petion-Ville library in Port-au-Prince
View from the Petion-Ville library
Photo: Anton Lau

The basics

Vacationers looking for a comfortable Caribbean holiday on a budget will find Port-au-Prince a great place to easily book hotels, rent cars, dine at a variety of restaurants, and head out to party on weekends. Those who are seeking more authentic accommodation in Haiti (such as Airbnb or staying with a host) need to be prepared for a few things – unpredictable power outages being the most important.

Once you’ve got that down, though, Port-au-Prince is a rich and colorful delight that keeps travellers coming back for more. There are so many pockets and places to explore, but we’ve got the essentials covered!

Colorful canvases on display along Rue Pinchinat, Petion-Ville
Paintings on display at Rue Pinchinat in Petion Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

Art & Culture

Jacmel may be called the cultural capital of Haiti, but the streets of Port-au-Prince are overflowing with art and artist-led initiatives are thriving.

For an introduction to Haitian arts and crafts, we recommend walking along Place Saint-Pierre, especially the block surrounding Institution Saint-Joseph. Here, artisans arrive early to set up temporary displays of paintings, sculptures, woodwork and trinkets for you to browse and haggle over.

Champ de Mars is another key destination for Haitian handcrafts. The artisans here specialise in bold jewelry and leather goods such as sandals and bags. The stall owners are business people as well as artisans, so expect to haggle, but given the relative cost of living here it’s still easy to find a price that supports the artist and offers visitors a bargain.

If you want to visit an art gallery, we recommend Galerie Monnin in Laboule, as well as Carré Zémès in Thomassin. Both are open to the public and feature eclectic collections of work from Haitian artists working in paint, sculpture and other media.

Two people hiking a trail above Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Hiking above Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Urban adventure

Looking for a top-notch outdoors experience without leaving Port-au-Prince?

Fort Jacques is an easy, accessible option if you are looking to get some time in nature, or want to picnic with a view. If you drive up in a car, expect to pay locals a small fee for park maintenance, or for parking safety. For those who are looking to get some hiking under their belt, the Boukan waterfall is a great place to start. Make sure you head there with a guide – preferably someone from the area of Fermathe.

Other places to get a breath of fresh air are Boutillier, Obléon and Furcy – a bit farther out of Pétion-Ville, but definitely worth the drive. Remember to pack a jacket in case it gets chilly – up in the hills the temperature can drop surprisingly quickly!

Hang out with locals

In the mood for a morning, midday, or afternoon stroll? Port-au-Prince is full of public squares where you can soak up the tropical sun and Haiti’s vibrant island atmosphere.

If you are in Pétion-Ville, you have the choice between Place Boyer and Place Saint-Pierre. Downtown? Champ de Mars is the place to go! This is where most Haitians in the capital spend time between classes if they’re students, between shifts if they’re street vendors, or meeting friends en route.

At most squares you’ll find merchants selling street food and drinks. For an authentic Haitian treat – and relief from the Caribbean heat – look for a vendor selling snow-cones known as Fresko.

Group eating dinner at Yanvalou in Pacot, Haiti
Yanvalou in Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

Where to eat

Hungry? With a diversity of cooking traditions and ingredients sourced from around the island, Port-au-Prince is Haiti’s culinary capital! Head over to La Coquille in Pétion-Ville for their Haitian food buffet, where you will be able to try the different types of rice and meats available that day, as well as a complimentary dessert.

If you are eager to try Haitian seafood, but haven’t yet scheduled your beach getaway, fear not! Vivano, also known as Coin des Artistes, is the place to go. Here, make sure you try the grilled fish, as well as the stewed fish, with a side of either crispy fried plantains or fried potatoes. If you happen to be in Haiti outside of lobster mating season (which runs officially from April 1st to June 30th), you will definitely want to try this Caribbean delicacy!

Karibe Hotel offers delicious Haitian cuisine in a more calm, relaxed, tropical setting. The hotel’s greenery transports you to an atmosphere outside of the city, letting you soak up those Caribbean island vibes without leaving Port-au-Prince.

Where to drink

Fancy a cocktail?

If you’re in Pétion-Ville, Fubar is a great place to start for all types of cocktails. Asu is a more high-end option, with delicious mojitos and a view to match. Downtown, Yanvalou has the best rum sours, and you will definitely want to stop at Gingerbread for their house-made cocktail mixes.

The beer standard in Haiti is an ice-cold (or byen frape, in Kreyòl) Prestige!

Where to party

Port-au-Prince is a nightlife powerhouse. While a variety of DJ parties happen every week, you can count on at least two events come rain or shine. The first is Live Groove on Thursdays at Yanvalou, in Pacot, and the second is Flashback Friday at Fubar, in Pétion-Ville.

If you are not able to make it to Yanvalou’s Live Groove or Fubar’s Flashback Friday, you can almost always catch a resident or rising DJ at a fan-favorite bar or restaurant – Asu, for example, often hosts young talent.

If you are more into live music, head over to Vivano or to Presse Café – both in Pétion-Ville – for the best in authentic troubadour or konpa music.

Haitian boy jumping into water at Bassin Général, Croix-des-Bouquets
People swimming at Bassin Général, Croix-des-Bouquets
Photo: Franck Fontain

Who should go?

If you only plan to visit one place in the Caribbean, Port-au-Prince offers intrepid travellers excellent value.

It’s the hub of activity in Haiti, and offers visitors a taste of everything this island has to offer: music, art and festivals for travellers looking to immerse themselves in a new culture; beaches and parties for a fun summer break; and peaceful, quiet corners for the solo-traveler. Port-au-Prince is also a great place to explore Haiti’s unique place in history as the first Caribbean nation to successfully throw off colonial rule.

A city finds its rhythm in the lives of its people – how will you dance along to daily life in Port-au-Prince during your stay?


Written by Kelly Paulemon.


Published March 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

A green yacht in aqua waters just off the beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

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We’ve rounded up a list of the best destinations for you to kick your feet up, relax, and enjoy the best Haiti’s coasts have to offer!

All of the destinations listed here can be reached by car – it’s easy to hire one in Port-au-Prince, but book ahead if you can. For an adventurous traveller fluent in French or Kreol, a journey via tap-tap to either Jacmel or Cap-Haïtien is an experience you won’t find anywhere else in the world, but for first-time visitors, we recommend hiring a car or driver.

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise hotel and restaurant in Jacmel, Haiti
Alliance Francaise in Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

01. Jacmel

For international travellers, Jacmel is famous mostly for its annual carnival. Located in the south, with a vibrant festival and music scene steeped in history, and plenty of bars to choose from, Jacmel might be considered Haiti’s New Orleans.

From beautiful beaches to fantastic festivals and an endless array of artistic expression, this city is the cultural capital of Haiti. Just a two-hour drive southwest of Port-au-Prince, Jacmel is also one of the most accessible destinations.

Around 15km east of Jacmel you’ll find the fishing village of Cayes-Jacmel, where most of the rocking chairs you’ll see around Haiti are made. A few more kilometers east and you’ll come to Plage Ti Mouillage, a stunning white-sand beach framed by coconut palms, with a bar stocked with ice-cold drinks and fresh seafood.  

Further east, you’ll find gorgeous Marigot. A coffee-growing town, Marigot has rated several times in Haiti’s top-ten communes. For a very reasonable price, you can wake up in an excellent boutique hotel with ocean views, the sounds of roosters crowing, and the smell of home-grown coffee roasting. 

Lounge chairs beneath trees at Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve, Haiti
Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve
Photo: Anton Lau

02. Village Taino, Grand-Goâve

Two hours west of Port-au-Prince is a small oasis, nestled among the tall trees of Grand-Goâve. Grand-Goâve is one of the oldest settlements in Haiti – its name dates back to the Amerindians who called it home before the arrival of Spanish colonists in the 16th century.

Village Taino is a set of beachside bungalows that opens up on the powdery sands of Haiti’s southern peninsula. If you like your beach escapes to be secluded and exclusive, you will enjoy the privacy of the bungalows, as well as the daily catered seafood, caught and cooked on location.

Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Photo: Bowerbill, Wikimedia Commons

03. Royal Decameron, Montrouis

Looking for world-class beachside relaxation? Royal Decameron, smack in the middle of the Arcadins coast, is your go-to for an all-inclusive experience in Haiti. With spacious rooms, swimming pools, authentic Haitian food, and recurring activities to keep you entertained throughout the days and evenings, it really is the easiest place to go for a weekend of unscripted relaxation and fun!

beach with people swimming and small wooden boat
People swiming at Amani-y Beach in Saint-Marc
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Amani-y Beach, Saint-Marc

Looking for something outside the popular beach resorts of the Arcadins coast? Amani-y Beach may be the treasure you seek. Located close by La Colline Hotel, it is one of Saint-Marc’s most picturesque beaches. Surrounded by the tree-clad hills that border Baie de Sant-Marc, clear blue waters stretch out for miles. Amani-y Beach offers all of the island flair with none of the touristic fuss.

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti
Cap Haitien Labadi
Photo: Verdy Verna

05. Cap-Haïtien

Accessible via car, if you’re into sightseeing; tap-tap, if you’re here for adventure; or plane if you can’t wait to get there, Cap-Haïtien is one of those cities you need a couple of days set aside to explore.

The beach of Cormier is one of the most underappreciated on the island – and only about twenty minutes away from the main city by car. The food options on the main boulevard, which you can walk to from most hotels, are mouthwatering and many – Lakay? Boukanye? Cap Deli? Barik? Lolo? Come hungry!

Deck chair under a thatch umbrella at Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

06. Abaka Bay Resort, Île-à-Vache

Île-à-Vache is a magical place. Ever wondered what it would be like to live on a small island, just enjoying the pleasures of the sea lapping at your feet under a palm tree? Abaka Bay Resort is the place for you. Between horseback riding, kayaking, and peaceful walks on the shore in the evening, you might even find time to finish your book. This is an enchanting destination for travellers seeking quality rest and relaxation.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2019


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Gelée Beach

Boat anchored in turquoise water off Gelée Beach, Haiti
Gelée Beach, Haiti
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Gelée Beach

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Situated in the heart of the Caribbean, between Cuba and the Dominican Republic, Haiti has over a thousand miles of coastline with dozens of destination-worthy beaches.

We’re talking white sand and turquoise water swelling up to coconut palms, chalk cliffs or jungle-clad mountains rolling off into the distance. Whether you choose one of the island’s most treasured coves or one of its many undiscovered wonders, the water here is warm all year round.

Gelée Beach

Located near Les Cayes in southern Haiti, Gelée Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Haiti. Highlights including the beachside fritay merchants and the chance to see cows grazing in fields that reach almost to the water’s edge. Compared to other popular beaches in Haiti, the surrounds are flat and open. Pastoral scenery notwithstanding, the water is tropical and the swimming here is lush.

The beach itself winds around the southern coastline for miles, with soft, pillowy sand melting into some of the most crystal clear waters you’ll find anywhere on the island – or in the Caribbean, for that matter.

Grab a bite

Colorful shacks of food vendors dot the treeline. The number of them is a testament to how popular Gelee beach is and how good the seafood is here. If you’ve already tried Haitian cuisine in Port-au-Prince, you’ll be familiar with the fried plantains and meat – typically called fritay, but don’t miss the chance to try the locally-caught seafood.

If you find the queues for the beachside food overwhelming, you’ll find a choice of restaurants and hotels a short drive from the beach.

At night, Gelée transforms into a lively, well-lit destination for dinner by the shore. The broad boulevard fills with music and foot traffic. People flock to the beach for Gelée’s specialty – grilled fish with fried plantains. Avoid a long wait by going with a local who can walk right up to their vendor of choice and order the right way.

Watch our video of the twoubadou band Tet Ansanm Twouba from Gelée Beach.

Getting there

Gelée beach is a twenty minute drive from downtown Les Cayes. As city gives way to surf, the road gives way to a sandy dirt track. Park off Route de Gelee and walk through the main entrance to the beach – the one closest to the bars and music – to be welcomed by the most picturesque view of the beach.

When to go

Every year, on August 15, the residents of Les Cayes celebrate Patron Saint festival of Our Lady of the Assumption. Thousands of people from all parts of Haiti and from the diaspora come to Les Cayes to participate in the festivities. If August 15 falls on a Friday, some extend their stay to the whole weekend.

During the festival, music can be heard from every rooftop, sidewalk, and front door of the city. There are plenty of activities for kids, and the highlight is the kite building and flying contest in Gelée, where adults and children come together. Kite-flying is hugely popular in Haiti, and has an entire season dedicated to it: kite season!

For a vibrant slice of Haitian summer life, August 15 is the perfect time to visit Gelée and Les Cayes.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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Day-trip to Haiti’s prettiest lake

Two friends relaxing by Lake Péligre, Haiti
Friends relaxing by Lake Péligre
Photo: Franck Fontain

Day-trip to Haiti’s prettiest lake

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About three hours north east of Port-au-Prince, tucked away in the central highlands, Lake Peligre is Haiti’s second-largest lake. But what exactly makes Lake Péligre worth making a detour for?

The creation of this man-made lake is not without controversy, but after six decades, a new thriving ecosystem is settling into place. Fishermen are drawn to the large numbers of fish that live there, and travellers are drawn to its pristine beauty.

The tops of the highlands plunge like fjords into the lake, flanking it dramatically on all sides. On a clear day, the sun mirrors of off green-blue waters that seem to stretch on for miles and miles into the horizon. Calm, sunny days are when the lake is most pleasant to visit – and at its most photogenic.

The wall of the Péligre hydroelectric dam, Haiti
Péligre hydroelectric dam
Photo: Franck Fontain

The hydroelectric dam

Between 1956 and 1957, Lake Péligre was created as a result of the Péligre hydroelectric dam, built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. When the rivers were dammed and the lake flooded the highlands, several Haitian families were displaced, the fertile land they relied on to make a living was inundated, and much was lost by many who had very little to begin with.

Sixty years later, Lake Péligre still stands as an engineering marvel in Haiti, and the hydroelectric power plant of Péligre remains an important source of electricity for the island’s inhabitants.

Why is Lake Péligre green?

Nature enthusiasts visiting Haiti will wonder about this peculiar hue – the waters turn green because of two things. The first is the large amount of plankton – small organisms that live in large bodies of water – and the second is the large amount of organic matter that flows through the river openings connected to the lake. These two factors make Lake Péligre an extremely fertile environment, and that’s why it’s one of the largest contributors to fishing in Haiti!

A trip to Lake Péligre is one of the best ways to escape the city environment, and dive into one of the refreshing outdoor wonders the island has to offer.

Aerial view of Lake Péligre and surrounding hills, Haiti
Lake Péligre
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

The drive to Lake Péligre from Port-au-Prince is about three hours. Due to traffic – at any time of the year, really – the earlier in the day you leave Port-au-Prince, the quicker you will reach your final destination! We recommend setting off early in the morning so you can drive back to Port-au-Prince on the same day.

To get there, you will drive through the areas of Mirebalais, then Cangé and Thomonde, before making your way south towards the lake.

As you get closer, the roadside opens up to a breathtaking view of Lake Péligre in all its glory. A morning drive to the lake is particularly gratifying, as the morning rays brush over the calm, glittering water while you drive by.

To truly discover the treasures of Haiti, you really need to get out there and travel around the island. If you are basing yourself in a big city like Port-au-Prince, it’s easy to escape on dozens of day trips to destinations in all directions.

Standing by the side of the road and taking in the fullness of Lake Péligre – its sheer size, the green colors and scents, and the dramatic mountains surrounding it all, you’ll be glad you made the trip.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

Clouds gathering over the peak of Pic La Selle, Haiti
Clouds gathering over Pic La Selle
Photo: Anton Lau

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

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“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

This Kreyòl proverb means “Behind mountains, there are more mountains.” Hispaniola is one of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, and Pic La Selle is Haiti’s highest peak.

Part of the La Selle mountain range – which also extends into the Dominican Republic – Pic La Selle is over 8,700 feet, making it the highest mountain peak in Haiti, and the third highest in the Caribbean. If you’re the adventurous type, the La Selle range should be on your radar. A single-day climb affords panoramic views over the island of Hispaniola and out across the Caribbean.

Located in the south-east of the West department of Haiti, La Selle is accessible via the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquets, but also via the small town of Marigot, less than an hour’s drive from Jacmel. From there, the road gets rough, so it’s strongly recommended that you head to Pic La Selle with a 4-by-4.

The roads in Haiti, especially the mountainous ones, can be arduous, and if it is your first time going to Pic La Selle, it’s recommended that you hire a driver or at least a guide who knows the twists and turns in the road. Luckily, you’ll find guides who specialise in guiding hikes from city to summit.

Is the journey more important to you than the destination? You might prefer to hike or drive through the La Selle mountains via Furcy. This scenic route is lusher and the peaks and valleys more dramatic, and will appeal to nature-lovers who don’t necessarily want to scale Pic La Selle itself. Again, your best bet is to have someone on your team who has been before, or to make friends with a local. You can even arrange a guided tour on horseback.

Hiking through the dry coniferous forest, you’ll come to appreciate the saying “Dèyè mòn, gen mòn.” The mountains fold and unfold in front of you, seemingly to no end. Depending on the weather, they may be lanced with tufts of clouds, weaving between them.

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over the borderlands between Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic. This area is part of the expansive Transboundary La Selle-Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, a protected region showcasing the rich biodiversity shared between the two nations.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle