TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home
Site logo

summer

Lake Azuéi

palm tree trunks in lake with surrounded by mountains
Palm tree trunks in Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

Lake Azuéi

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

Lake Azuéi lies 18 miles east of Port-au-Prince and borders Haiti’s next-door neighbor, the Dominican Republic. Spanning 65 blue square miles, Lake Azuéi is a remarkable ecosystem, and a great starting point for wilderness excursions.

Already Haiti’s largest lake, Lake Azuéi has been baffling scientists by rising for two decades – and no one knows why. Today, visitors to the site can see rows of pastel-colored facades that appear to be floating on the surface – the tops of houses, all that’s visible of now-flooded villages along what used to be the shores of the lake. Nearby, you can see trees growing through the glass-like surface as if defying the laws of nature. It’s a haunting picture.

Another quirk of this remarkable Caribbean lake is its salinity – also known as Étang Saumâtre, meaning “brackish lake”, Lake Azuéi is one-fifth the saltiness of the sea. In prehistoric times, the lake site was a marine strait, and its unique ecology is home to over 100 exotic species of water-loving birds and reptiles, including flamingoes and crocodiles.

haitian boys swimming in lake surrounded by mountains
People swimming in Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

The riches of Lake Azuéi

Along one edge of Lake Azuéi, the Quisqueya Park nature reserve offers visitors the chance to wander through an impressive cacti forest. Inside the lake itself, commercial tilapia farms share space with wild flocks of waterfowl, once hunted, but now under official protection. One of the best ways to appreciate the vistas around Lake Azuéi is to plan your trip there to coincide with the birds that migrate to feed or breed here during certain times of the year.

Small villages dot the perimeter, and during the day, year-round, fishermen take their boats out, hoping to catch enough to support themselves and provide for their families. If you cross paths with one of these fishermen, you might be offered a tour of the lake. Tour fees start at 500 gourdes (roughly US $5.25) and sometimes cost more – haggling is a great skill to have, here, as it is at landmarks and markets across Haiti.

haitian boy with a small fish next to lake
Boy with a fish, Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

What if I don’t like flamingos or crocodiles?

If you are a fan of rara music, you’ll be happy to learn that during the Easter period, Lake Azuéi comes alive. Many open spaces and clubs fill up with a crowd of people looking to dance and enjoy the gorgeous landscape around the annual lake celebration, held toward the end of August each year, usually at Quisqueya Park where it overlooks the lake. The lake is also a popular place to stage rara Easter festivities, making it a brilliant place to experience a real Haitian rara Easter.

To access Quisqueya Park, you’ll need to be accompanied by a guide unless you arrive during the August celebrations. Throughout the official celebration period, visitors can browse art and craft exhibitions with local and foreign artists, and guided visits are much more organized and frequent, but the main attraction is the same as it is at any other time of year – swimming! Zabeth Springs, in the town of Ganthier, not far from Lake Azuéi, attracts small crowds of curious visitors on most weekends. International adventurers join residents of Port-au-Prince in diving into the springs, and finish their day with a swim down at Lake Azuéi.

Sunshi Beach and Estofa Beach are established spots for relaxation by the lake, and the Cabane Hotel Resto is a great place to wake up facing Lake Azuéi.

restaurant dining area with thatched roof
Cabane Hotel Resto, Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

Lake Azuei is easy to access, located just 18 miles east of Port-au-Prince. If you have a guide, they will be able to take you privately – take the road that leads to the Plain of the Cul-de-Sac (French: Plaine du Cul-de-Sac), and keep going east – you won’t miss it.

For travelers coming from the Dominican Republic, public transportation will drive you right up to the lake. Buses wind alongside the lake shore, offering gorgeous views. Some adventurers hit the road on a motorcycle or moto, the most common mode of transportation in Haiti. While very exciting, we can’t really recommend it to first-time visitors to the lake because the lake is huge and being on the back of a bike that long just isn’t comfortable.

group of haitian kids swimming swimming in natural pool
Kids Swimming at Zabeth Springs, Lake Azuei
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Jean Fils and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2020


Read story
old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Have You Tried These 7 Haitian Summer Flavours?

vendor on city street with many straw baskets filled with haitian fruits
Fruit vendor in Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

Have You Tried These 7 Haitian Summer Flavours?

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

Here’s our guide to the quintessential Haitian flavors in season at the high point of the year.

If “summer in Haiti” for you is synonymous with refreshing rum punches and cocktails, you’re not wrong! Every summer, Haiti brightens up with the colors of seasonal fruit. Tables at markets, restaurants and homes pile up with fresh fruit fan-favorite vegetables essential for some of the most-loved classic Haitian dishes.

Whet your appetite and test your knowledge of Caribbean cuisine with this list of our seven favorite Haitian summer flavors!

bunch of green haitian kenèp fruits hanging on tree
Kenèp
Photo: Franck Fontain

01. Kenèp (Guinep)

This fruit is what summer in Haiti tastes like, in a bite. Everybody on the island eagerly awaits the first harvest of this sweet and juicy fruit. It grows in bunches on gorgeous tall trees, and to eat it, you have to crack the thin shell open with either your teeth or hands, then suck the flesh of the fruit, and spit out the seed, which is about the size of a marble. If you’re visiting anytime between June and August, you’ll be able to try them too, and fall in love.

mango fruits on display with pineapples
Mangoes
Photo: Franck Fontain

02. Mango

Mangoes are present year-round in Haiti but as early as the month of March, there are at least 12 different varieties that become available in abundance – mango lovers rejoice! The varieties differ in shape, size, and most importantly, flavor. If you’re new to the mango game, we recommend starting with Mango Baptiste, Mango Francique, and Mango Kòn. Don’t hesitate to ask your host or local fruit vendor for pointers! Haiti is divided into 10 departments, and each department produces its own kind because of differences in weather, which makes for a rich variety to choose from.

haitian fruit vendor cutting a watermelon
Watermelon
Photo: Franck Fontain

03. Watermelon

If there’s anything we know for a fact, it is that Haiti gets very hot during the summer. Luckily, summer is watermelon season in Haiti, and they are everywhere! There are hardly any fruits that can’t or won’t be transformed into a delicious, refreshing juice during Haiti’s hot summers, and watermelon juice is no exception. The very best feeling after a day out in the city or a hike is that first taste of freshly-squeezed watermelon juice.

a straw hat filled with green okra
Kalalou
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Kalalou (Okra)

Green and fuzzy on the outside when raw, kalalou is a typical Caribbean vegetable that turns slimy (but extremely delicious!) when stewed. If you are at all familiar with American Southern cooking, you’ll probably recognize this vegetable in its fried form. In Haiti, however, you’re more likely to find kalalou cooked down into a stew with some meat — usually beef — and served as an accompaniment to a serving of rice and beans. If you want to try something new and unusual during your adventure in Haiti, kalalou stew should be at the top of your must-try list!

haitian woman holding a bunch of light green haitian chayote fruits
Militon
Photo: Franck Fontain

05. Militon (Chayote)

Militon is one of the vegetables that you have to try at least once. It’s a starchy vegetable, so its texture is comparable to that of a potato, but when cooked, it’s much softer and more complex in flavor. In Haiti, it’s commonly eaten as part of a meat stew, or a gratinée, meaning that it’s baked with cheese and a béchamel sauce. With the right spices, the right amount of crunch and the perfect portion of cheese, gratinée is a great introduction to militon and will prepare you for different, more adventurous preparations.

green haitian soursop fruit hanging on tree branch
Kowosòl
Photo: Franck Fontain

06. Kowosòl (Soursop)

Kowosòl is another summer staple fruit. Its consistency is very close to that of an unripe pineapple. The fruit has small thorns on the outside but slices open to reveal rich, white, fragrant flesh. Although one can eat kowosòl (sometimes called corossol) as is, it’s usually blended into a juice with either milk or water and sweetened to taste. Best enjoyed on a breezy balcony on a beautiful hot day.

brown haitian tamarind fruits
Tamarind
Photo: Franck Fontain

07. Tamarind

If tangy flavors are your thing, this summer fruit is right up your alley. Tamarind is hugely popular in Haiti and while the tanginess can make this flavor divisive, it has some very loyal fans. Some people who love this fruit swear by its benefits: it’s rich in antioxidants, is said to fire up your metabolism, and is apparently great for your skin too! Who knew?

Used in curries and desserts across Asia, tamarind is most often consumed in Haiti as a juice. During tamarind season, you’ll be able to find tamarind juice at most restaurants and hotels. Enjoy!


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published February 2020


Read story

Vodou Pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau

crowd of haitians standing under a huge waterfall
Pilgrims gathering beneath the Saut d’Eau waterfalls
Photo: Franck Fontain

On the trail of the Vodou pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

Haitian culture – we mention it a lot here at Visit Haiti, but what is it, exactly?

Haitian culture is a cluster of concepts, practices and identities, including the Kreyol (Haitian Creole) language, a set of morals, everyday customs, the history of the modern nation of Haiti (as well as the interrelated history of the Dominican Republic and the island of Hispaniola as a whole), and the Haitian religion – Vodou.

Spelled Vodou to distinguish it from the voodoo traditions of Louisiana and elsewhere in the African diaspora, Haitian Vodou is born out of the unique mix of many African religious practices with christianity, all of which were transported here to Haiti during the colonial period.

According to sales archives preserved from the colonial era (and still accessible in private collections or at the National Library of France), we learn that plantations often held slaves of up to ten different ethnicities. This included members of the island’s indigenous Taíno people, few of whom had survived the brutal regime of colonisation and enslavement up to that point. Colonial plantation owners were recommended to hold slaves from different ethnicities together on the same plantation, so that they’d have nothing in common but the color of their skin. People thrown together on Haitian plantations included Fon (Dahomey) people from Benin, Congo and elsewhere. In The Mysteries of VodouLaennec Hurbon explains that the word Vodou comes from the language spoken in Benin and means “invisible and formidable power”.

This multiculturalism allowed Haitian Vodou to acquire over the course of the years characteristics that are its own, and awards it all the richness it has today. One of the roots of this richness is the religious syncretism that allowed African practices to graft themselves to Christianity as well as to the indigenous practices that already existed on the island. From there, the Christian saints became vodou lwas and Christian celebrations transformed into Vodou ceremonies and celebrations.

One of these celebrations is the annual pilgrimage to honor the Miraculous Virgin of Saut d’Eau at the magical Saut d’Eau waterfall (spelled Sodo in Kreyol).

haitian girl sitting behind table with merchandise for sale
Vendor selling offer gifts at Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

The Miraculous Virgin of Saut d’Eau

Popular in Vodou spaces around Haiti, the Miraculous Virgin of Saut d’Eau is renowned for bringing luck in love and in economic transactions. You’ll also find her venerated under the names Saint Anne (Mother of the Virgin Mary in the Christian tradition) or Little Saint Anne (Kreyol: Ti Sent Án) or Miraculous Virgin.

Every year from July 14 to 16, devotees from across Haiti make a pilgrimage to the Saut d’Eau waterfall, located 60 miles north of Port-au-Prince. The event also attracts curious travellers from around the world, who want to witness this one-of-a-kind Vodou pilgrimage.

haitian pilgrims during a spiritual ritual by waterfall
Pilgrims bathing at Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

How to invoke the favor of the Miraculous Virgin

To obtain the Miraculous Virgin’s favor, Vodou practitioners travel to the sacred Saut d’Eau waterfall to conduct a purification ritual. Most practitioners make the pilgrimage in summer, but the ritual is possible at any time of the year.

The ritual is called a “luck bath”. The devotee journeys to the cult site with a calabash (a water flask made from a gourd) as well as gifts to offer to the goddess, before disrobing and diving under the magnificent Saut d’Eau waterfall. Devotees carry a small collection of leaves, plants, and herbs linked to the goddess and believed to have therapeutic virtues. If they want to, the supplicants can also bring orgeat syrup, perfume or flowers, or prepare a meal to offer as a pledge of their good faith and their loyalty to the lwa.

Once the preparations are complete, the supplicant bathes under the waterfall (either alone or with the help of an ougan (Vodou priest)), washing while invoking the protection and virtues of the goddess. It is critical, at the end of this ceremony, to break the calabash that served to carry water from the waterfall to wash oneself and to leave in the water the clothes which the supplicant had worn to the site – these represent their past bad luck. Instead, devotees leave dressed in new clothes, and hopefully imbued with the goddess’ protection and luck for the future.

crowd of haitians preparing for a spiritual bath by waterfall
Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

Make a pilgrimage of your own

Intrigued? Although it’s one of the most sacred sites in Haiti, Saut d’Eau is not cut off from the curious. Travellers are welcome to visit the waterfall any time of year. Whether you want to try your luck at invoking the lwa‘s favor, or just enjoy the experience of bathing under an incredible freshwater waterfall, framed by gorgeous forest filled with birdsong, you’re welcome to make a pilgrimage of your own to this very special place.

Saut d’Eau waterfall (spelled Sodo in Kreyol) is located 60 miles north of Port-au-Prince, near Mirebalais. The pilgrimage happens from July 14 to 16, but the site is open to visitors year-round (road conditions allowing).

The magnificent Saut d’Eau waterfall is just one of many mystical sites used for the Vodou luck bath ritual, including Bassin Saint Jacques and the gorgeous Bassin Bleu.

haitian woman in blue dress with small child in straw hat
Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published February 2020


Read story

When is the best time to visit Haiti?

Aerial view of buildings on the water at Ouanga Bay, Carries, Haiti
Sea view, Ouanga Bay, Carries, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

When is the best time to visit Haiti?

Copy LinkEmailFacebookShare

Surprisingly, there’s quite a difference between its two seasons – wet and dry. There are several pros and cons to both, and cost is just the beginning.

November to March – Dry Season

Haiti’s dry season officially runs from November to March, with as few as three rainy days each month. Like the rest of the Caribbean, you can expect it to be humid, but thanks to trade winds from the North the humidity is tempered in coastal areas.

In dry season expect warm, blue-skies days and lovely afternoon breezes, especially along the coast and in the mountains.

The advantages of visit Haiti in dry season are many. Visitors from the northern hemisphere get to ditch snow or just boring-old-cold for sun and sand. With lower humidity and little rain, the dry season also provides the best conditions for surfing, snorkeling, diving and trekking. This is when the seas are at their calmest (and most photogenic).

It’s certainly the best time to hike to the La Selle range, and the spectacular natural features of Bassin BleuBassin Zim and Dondon grottoes – unless you’re craving the added adventure of tackling slippery slopes on your way back down.

The downside of visiting Haiti during the dry season is that everyone else wants to, making it a little bit tricky, and sometimes expensive to secure a flight to get here. Particularly during December and January, tourism peaks and Haitians living abroad tend to come back to Haiti for end-of-year celebrations with their friends and family.

This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t book your Haitian getaway during December-March: it just means you’ll need to book further ahead to find flights and the perfect place to stay for a good deal.

If you’re struggling to find a flight in your price range for the time you want to travel, try breaking up your trip and booking the legs separately: for example, if you’re coming from the US, find a flight to Florida and then fly from Miami into Port-au-Prince.

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière, Milot, Haiti
Citadelle Laferrière, Milot
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

Dry season key dates and events

November: the month of Gede – If you want to immerse yourself in Haitian culture, November is a great time to visit, being the month when Haitians celebrate Gede – a family of lwa in Haitian Vodou. Events throughout the country abound, so if you can move around, it’s a great time to be in Haiti – and if not, Port-au-Prince is just as lively with it’s own activities! It’s also a great month for cultural events, as most of them tend to be scheduled around that time.

Mid November: Le Festival du Rhum shines the spotlight on Haiti’s most famous export with tastings, workshops and cooking demonstrations. The rum festival is a great time to sample varieties from around the country in one place, surrounded by a festive atmosphere.

December 31 – January 1: New Years Eve / Independence Day celebrations.

January: the PAPJazz festival.

Late February – March: Carnival season. Jacmel’s world-famous carnival is staged the week before the carnival in Port-au-Prince, so it’s possible to see one if you can’t see the other, or even make a marathon of it.

Aerial photo of rice fields by the coast in Corail, Haiti
Rice fields in Corail
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

April to October – wet season

In the summer months from June to August, the weather is warm and the beaches are beautiful. With fewer tourists, you’ll find destinations quieter and locals will have more time for you. It’s an amazing time to visit and get to know the island.

For travellers who want to explore the island’s landscapes, culture, history and art at their own pace, and don’t mind getting caught in the rain on the way to their pina coladas, the less predictable sultry summer months will repay you with the cheapest flights and accommodation.

People hiking across a hill in Grandou, Haiti
Hiking in Grandou
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Wet season key dates and events

May: generally the wettest month of the year, monsoon season is a great time for indoor exploration. If you’re interested in creative writing or storytelling, don’t miss the annual Krik-Krak storytellers festival.

June: Sunshine and blue skies – Without a doubt, the sunniest period of the year in Haiti is between the months of June and August. This is the perfect time to go around the country for some sightseeing – especially if you’re a fan of nature’s wonders!

July: Summer celebrations – Want to see how Haiti parties? The months of July, December, and January are your best bets. This is when promoters plan the biggest events of the year, all over the country – and there is something for everyone. If you love a good beach or festival-like party, Haiti is the place to be!

August-October: Hurricane season. Lighter rains compared to April-June, but the weather is less predictable. Like unpredictable weather in any city (or light snowfall in London!) hurricanes can knock out sections of Haiti’s transport and infrastructure. If you’re looking for festive color and celebration, best to book your trip for another time of year.

If you’re an experienced adventure traveller and don’t mind having to change plans at the last minute, the hurricane season is when you’ll get the cheapest flights and accommodation in Haiti.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


Read story
cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle