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Photo Journal: Cayes-Jacmel

July 26, 2021 by Anton Lau

wooden boat with two fishermen setting out nets — Sardine fishing in Petavie, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Photo Journal: Cayes-Jacmel

Just fifteen minutes outside of Cyvadier, by the city of Jacmel, is where you’ll find the small town of Cayes-Jacmel. A peaceful beachside haven with enough modern comforts to enhance its quaint, provincial feel, Cayes-Jacmel should be on everyone’s list for some tropical R and R.

Spend 15 minutes in any street or neighborhood in Port-au-Prince and chances are you’ll run into some young children— adults, too, sometimes —playing soccer. The same goes for any town outside the capital. Cayes-Jacmel’s sandy beaches turn into a fun, tropical turf.

five haitian boys playing soccer on sandy beach — Boys playing football on the beach in Ti Mouillage, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Transportation in the towns outside of Port-au-Prince can be very different from what it’s like in the capital. Cayes-Jacmel and its surrounding cities— Cyvadier and Marigot —are where you’ll see a lot of people riding behind motorcycle drivers, and on tap-taps. Motorcycle drivers outside of Port-au-Prince are much more affordable, especially if you are in a rush, or just looking for a breeze.

Being a province, even outside of the major city of Jacmel, is no deterrent to life in Cayes-Jacmel. Barbershops, nail studios, and hair salons pepper the sides of the road. Their chairs see the faces of residents looking to elevate their looks for the weekend, for a meeting in town, or because it’s Sunday, and they’re preparing for the week ahead.

interior of haitian barbershop with clients getting a haircut — ‘Greg Dizay’ barbershop in Gros Roche, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

For the visual traveler and the avid Facebook updater, the scenery on the way to and around Cayes-Jacmel will be a treat. The city runs along the side of the clear blue water, where waves rhythmically crash all day and all night long. There are many picturesque pictures stops along the way!

street with tiny colofully painted building with palm trees and ocean — Lotto bank in Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Another thing that is easily accessible in and around Cayes-Jacmel: souvenirs! Hats, necklaces, bracelets, and even sandals are almost always on display in little wooden stalls, by the side of the road, or even carried by individual vendors, ready for you to purchase and take home to keep a piece of Haiti with you.

older haitian woman in white shirt wearing a stack of straw hats — A woman selling hats in Kabik
Photo: Franck Fontain

Cayes-Jacmel being right on the water means that beach access is a given at many restaurants, bars, and clubs. Le Cam’s is a popular place to eat in Cayes-Jacmel; a favorite of many Port-au-Princians and a few expats, it offers a nice, gradual entry into the water that is family and beginning-swimmer friendly.

restaurant area with thatched roof by the beach — Le Cam’s restaurant in Kabik
Photo: Franck Fontain

If you are looking for a more accessible, popular-with-the-locals option, Ti Mouillage is a great place to go. The beachside restaurant and bungalow sits on the edge of some of Haiti’s finest sand and bluest waters. It is another favorite makeshift field for young boys in the area to play soccer after school in the afternoon.

three haitian boys playing football on beach — Boys playing football on the beach in Ti Mouillage, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Young boys and girls in cities outside of Port-au-Prince enjoy their days and afternoons differently, and many times, participate in their home life differently, too. Many are helping parents in the kitchen as soon as they can repeat ingredients back to them, and almost each one has a warming childhood story about when a parent sent them to get something at the corner store.

haitian girl walking on sidewalk with chicked in hand — A girl walking with a chicken, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

A lot of the young boys who play soccer on the beach or in their neighborhoods dream of being part of their local team when they’re a little older, to play at the Cayes-Jacmel stadium. A lot of regional soccer championships are hosted there, as well as large weekend parties and events.

large football stadium on the haitian coast with tropical forest and mountains — Football game at Tèren Masak, Cayes-Jacmel Stadium
Photo: Franck Fontain

The stadium is not too far away from the Raymond-Les-Bains beach, where the sunsets rival the grilled fish and fried plantains in how exclusive and deliciously amazing they are. Raymond-Les-Bains is really well known for weekend parties, patron saint festivals, and really good, tasty fish. Make sure to ask your waiter to see the different sizes available the day you visit!

sunset over beach with tables, parasols and palm trees — Sun setting over Raymond les Bains beach, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Cayes-Jacmel stands in harmony with and independently of Jacmel, a city full of history and culture. Cayes-Jacmel is what every tropical trekker’s dreams are made of: golden sunsets, slow living by the beach, and small community moments that bring you closer to locals.

QUIZ: Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?

November 13, 2020 by Anton Lau

city street with people and old colonial houses — Street life in Jérémie
Photo: Tyler Welsh

QUIZ: Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?

Are you a new visitor getting ready to explore Port-au-Prince, or an explorer ready for adventure in Dondon? Let’s test your knowledge of these 12 Haitian cities.

The cities of Haiti are as diverse as its cuisine. Whether you are only familiar with Port-au-Prince and Jacmel, or you have already made friends in Milot, this quiz is a good exercise to see how well you know the Haitian landscape. Can you tell us where on the map these 12 cities are located?

Start taking the quiz on the map below!

<section> <h2></h2> <h2>Can you place 12 Haitian cities on the map?</h2> </section> <section> <h2></h2> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Cap-Haïtien?<strong> </strong></h2> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Jérémie?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is Milot?</strong><strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is Zavane Zombi? </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Gonaives?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Fond-des-Blancs?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Pointe Des Lataniers?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is Thomonde?</strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Léogâne?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is Tortuga?</strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Port Salut?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Anse-Rouge?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h2></h2> </section> <section> <h3></h3> </section>       

Remember: there are no winners, and no losers — only opportunities to learn more about Haiti and to find new places to explore. Did you recognize any of the cities in the quiz? Which ones were you hearing of for the first time?

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2020.

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Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

July 18, 2020 by Anton Lau

haitians crossing the grande-anse river by foot and donkey — The Grande-Anse River
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

One of the country’s southernmost departments, and the home to cities like Jérémie and Abricots, Grand’Anse is where coastal cruising meets mainland adventures.

Between mountains and valleys, the people of the Grand’Anse department are open and eager to make a life for themselves. If you are ever hiking through a town outside the main cities, you will note that the trek some farmers and vendors accomplish to sell their goods every day is nothing short of a miracle.

older haitian man with machete and bag on head — A farmer on his way home from the field near Kafou Zaboka, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Modern infrastructure is not just a thing of Haiti’s big cities. In Jérémie, a massive bridge connects the two edges of the Grand’Anse river, allowing cars and motorcycles through, and for a very scenic drive.

traffic on large bridge crossing a big river — Bridge over Grande-Anse river to Jérémie, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

For those whose journeys are a little bit shorter, a brisk walk through the waters of the Grand’Anse river takes them straight to their destination. Farmers, vendors, and passersby can sometimes be seen quickly wading through, while early morning or late afternoon sunshine ripples over the water.

Some of these daily journeyers — when schools are open — are students. They often make the daily trip in small groups with their friends, to reach their schools in nearby cities. When school is out, they can be seen running and laughing down the same paths, in the soft summer heat.

haitian school boys in uniforms — Boys going to school near Moron, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The bridge in Marfranc is one of those places that is part of daily scenery for students living in the areas around it, but that can add excitement to any visitor’s tour of the Grand’Anse department.

haitian school girl in uniform walking over suspension bridge — School girl crossing a bridge in Marfranc, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

As with any place in rural Haiti, the Grand’Anse department is chock-full of hotel, inn, and bed-and-breakfast options for you to choose from. Not sure where to stay? Easy: ask a local!

motorcycle with passenger driving past hotel building — Cash-Cash Hotel in Dame Marie, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

For these coastal cities like Corail, the importance of local fishing cannot be overstated. Wholesaling and retailing is how many individuals make a living, put food on their tables, and on those of their customers.

haitian woman with red head scarf and bowl of conch — Woman selling conch in Corail, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The beauty of towns surrounding the Grand’Anse river is that they have learned to embrace and adapt to its natural architecture. All around the current, vegetable plots and small homes have sprouted, never so much as disturbing it.

aerial view of farmers fields, river, road and plantation — Landscape in Troupeau near Corail, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Fisher-men and -women alike are no strangers to the sharp art of scaling, gutting, and preparing fish in preparation for the day’s sales. The fresher, the better; often times, a morning catch will become a fried or stewed afternoon lunch or dinner.

haitian woman with straw hat cleaning fish — Woman cleaning a fish by the habour in Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Mountain towns hold their own busy and bustling communities, too. Farmers and vendors will make their way downhill to the main towns where they will bring and sell fresh produce. Schools often pop up in these remote areas as well, removing a burden off the backs of students who would otherwise struggle to afford tuition in cities like Jérémie, Abricots or Pestel.

haitian school building in mountainscape — A school in the mountains close to Jean Beurry, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The people of Grand’Anse hold hearts as vast and as open as their hometowns. If you are able to make the drive down there, it is an experience worth living and re-telling.

Haitian boys in the Joly Guibert village, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Hotel Cyvadier Plage

June 19, 2020 by Anton Lau

hotel pool with palm trees and sea view — Pool area at Hotel Cyvadier Plage
Photo: Hotel Cyvadier Plage

Hotel Cyvadier Plage

A few minutes outside the city of Jacmel, Cyvadier Hotel is the perfect seaside escape for the nature lover in all of us.

First Impressions

Among all the cities of Haiti, the city of Jacmel is recognized for its hospitality and as being a haven of peace. For a good stay, the Cyvadier Hotel offers modern comfort in a prime location. The hotel’s seafront access is ideal if you are looking for a picture-perfecr tropical vacation without the typical busyness of the Arcadins’ coast.

Rooms

The Cyvadier Hotel is a charming small hotel which has 28 tastefully furnished rooms that embellish a rustic, Caribbean style with modern accents; some have a terrace which offers a beautiful view where you can bask in watching the sunset facing the sea. The whole establishment has access to WiFi.

What’s for breakfast?

Breakfast is served every day at the Cyvadier Hotel, and includes all of the standard stops of a Haitian breakfast. From fresh, seasonal fruit, to eggs, baked goods, and freshly brewed coffee and steeped tea, it can all be enjoyed by the sea, or in your room, on request – it’s entirely up to you.

How about lunch and dinner?

The restaurant at the Cyvadier Hotel benefits from being a seaside one: fresh seafood is served there every day! From lobster to grilled fish, the menu is an ode to the bevy of creatures that grace the sea. Standard Haitian cuisine is also hard-and-fast on this menu; you’ll find staples like conch and roasted chicken, as well as the delicacy that is Haitian pain patate – a sweet potato dessert.

Is there a bar?

Lounge around by the pool and take in the view as you sip away from the hotel’s restaurant drinks’ menu which also covers wines, champagnes, liquors, local beers, and cocktails made to order.

Activities and amenities

You’ll want to make a stop at the Cyvadier massage parlor, where for an hour or two, you can experience hot rock massages, deep tissue massages, and even a detox cleanse during your stay. If an adventure is what excites you, take advantage of Cyvadier Hotel’s boat excursions and paddle boarding.

Within a short walk you can find…

To hit the beach, the choices are nearly endless; you can either choose the private beach of the Cyvadier Hotel or the beach at Raymond-les-Bains (for a small visitors’ fee), where you will find charming seafood merchants. At Timouyaj Beach, big waves invite you to surf and the sand invites you to relax.

Need to know (before you go)

For those who are more attracted by the walks and the visits, Jacmel is very close, the mountains are accessible, and the sea is nearby. The city invites you to discover craftsmen and charming streets where art is always present and in an extraordinary profusion.

Getting there

For directions and bookings visit Cyvadier Hotel on Hotels.com

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Photo Journal: Marigot

April 14, 2020 by admin

aerial view of port with boats and people — Port of Marigot, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Photo Journal: Marigot

One hour east of the seaside city of Jacmel, the municipality of Marigot sits right between the edge of the water and an important element of everyday people’s lives.

Marigot’s farmers’ market is a salient feature of the village. An important pulse point, the market only operates on Saturdays. Boats arriving from Anse-à-Pitre dock at the port hours before the sun rises over the village.

large wooden boat with haitians on the open ocean — Boat arriving from Anse-à-Pitres to Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

The boats are a great way to kill two birds with one stone. On the one hand, they carry goods to Marigot, and on the other, because road conditions are awful, they facilitate the transportation of passengers.

group of haitians stading on wharf with boats — People waiting on the wharf in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

These boats carry people heading to or from places like Savane Zonbi, Thiotte, Anse-à-Pitres, or the Dominican Republic.

large wooden boats with haitians docking on beach — Boat from Anse-à-Pitres docking in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

The scene at the port is both very Haitian and extremely picturesque. Nimble and hardworking men move packages off the boats and onto the docks.

man standing on boat pulling a large rope — A man mooring a boat in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Wading through water up to their chests, they balance very large sacks of coal, heavy coolers stuffed with fish, and even stacks of packed cardboard boxes on their heads.

two haitians weighing fish at market — People working at the fish market in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

From the docks, all these packages are loaded onto trucks headed to other cities, but– careful! These workers move fast, and need you to be out of their way. There’s no time to waste!

a fish market in haiti with many people — The fish market in Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

The coolers of fish are taken to the nearby fish market; an open building located just a short walk from the wharf. This is where fish is weighed and priced.

People unloading goods from the boats
Photo: Franck Fontain

As any farmers’ market in Haiti, haggling is a must, and commotion is everywhere; from fish vendors to other merchants crisscrossing the building.

to haitian men sitting on a stony beach with boats — Two men watching the boats being unloaded
Photo: Franck Fontain

Large amounts of fish and seafood in Marigot regularly make their way to plates in Port-au-Prince, as middlemen come to stock up for the capital’s restaurants every week.

aerial view of coastal village with market area and boats — Sun rising over the port of Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Explore Jérémie

February 6, 2020 by admin

haitian man and woman posing behind a rocking chair — Nansky & Gina at their guesthouse in Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Explore Jérémie

At the end of a 180-mile journey west along Haiti’s southern peninsula, Jérémie is a busy coastal town with mountains cascading at its back. A city full of history and character, you’ll want to dedicate a couple of days to fully explore.

If you’ve travelled through the north of Haiti before (especially driving from Port-au-Prince to Cap-Haïtien through Mirebalais) the drive to Jérémie is reminiscent of watching Lake Péligre peek from between the curves in the road. The Grand’Anse river that gives this part of Haiti its name courses from its birthplace in the Pic Macaya National Park down through mountains to where it meets the sea just south of the town of Jérémie.

The Grand’Anse is the reason Jérémie was founded, and is important as a direct source of irrigation for fields and livestock. The communities that live and work all along the river are diverse, but through the river all are connected into a long, narrow, close-knit neighborhood.

Way out west, Jérémie boasts a self-possessed rural charm, a sort of independence from the rest of the island, and a kind of defiance in the face of time. In Jérémie, centuries-old traditions are still alive today, side-by-side with the modernity of a 21st century Haiti.

interior of church during service — Inside the Saint Louis King of France cathedral, Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Top attractions in Jérémie

Anse d’Azur – A spectacular sandy bay with a sunken German U-boat and a gorgeous cave system, Anse d’Azur is as picturesque as the very best of Caribbean beaches (minus the crowds).

Saint Louis King of France cathedral – The same romanticism in Jérémie’s literature infuses its architecture. If reading the works of Jérémie’s writers has inspired you, or if you’re into architecture or design, you’ll want to see the city’s Saint Louis King of France Cathedral (French: Cathédrale Saint-Louis-Roi-de-France de Jérémie). Built on the site of an ancient temple that burned down in 1874, the Cathedral is an imposing deep-red with white detail, pulling together elements of Haitian architecture familiar to travellers who have seen Port-au-Prince’s Gingerbread Houses, Iron Market, or the cathedral of Hinche.

Patron saint festival of Saint Louis – The Cathedral really shines during the month of August, when Jérémie gears up to celebrate the patron saint festival of Saint Louis King of France on the 25th. The city and surrounding parish come alive in prayer, festivities, and good times all around.

Kay Gina & Nansky – Being in Jérémie during the summertime is a great opportunity to visit Kay Gina & Nansky! Art-lovers Gina and Nansky have successfully curated a space that feels like both an altar and an exhibition, featuring artworks created by Haitian artists from Jérémie, Jacmel, Port-au-Prince and other cities right across Haiti. They also offer the opportunity to stay with them at their guest house, for $30 a night; the nice clean rooms are 10 minutes away from an amazing, immersive local experience in town, and breakfast can be tacked onto your stay for a small additional fee. Kay Gina & Nansky is a great place to get a quick bite of traditional carnival foods such as beignets—sweet banana fritters. A must-visit if you’re in town during any patron saint festival or kanival.

older haitian man in white shirt and black pants — Old man in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

City of Poets

Jérémie has produced some of Haiti’s most prominent figures of literature, earning it the nickname of “the City of Poets”. Poets Émile Roumer and Jean-Fernand Brierre, as well as Alexandre Dumas’ father, all hailed from the City of Poets, and carried Haitian literature far and wide with them wherever they or their works set foot. Jérémie became a literary powerhouse that would later come to surpass the capital and inspire writers across the young Haitian nation. You’ll see plenty of monuments to poets and poetry while you’re here.

haitian house with pool and balcony — Makay Villa in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Where to sleep

This far southwest, you won’t any all-inclusive resorts, but Jérémie is full of AirBnB options. By far, the best of these is Place Charmant; just a few minutes of driving away from downtown Jérémie, it sits atop a hill with an outstanding view overlooking the bay. Here, you can enjoy dipping in the large pool while using the city’s most reliable WiFi. Place Charmant’s rooms start at $80 per night, breakfast and dinner included.

If you’re travelling in a group, Makay Villa is ideal. With a pool overlooking a small bay, and access to a small semi-private beach, it’s a great place to call home during your stay in Jérémie.

haitian konparet cakes being baked in oven — Konparèt bakery in Jérémie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Must-try Flavors

You can’t trek the six-hour drive to Jérémie and not try its local specialty: konparèt. A rich, dense, almost pound-cake-like sweet biscuit, konparèt brings together the classic Caribbean flavors of coconut and ripe bananas, as well as warming accents from West Indies spices like cinnamon and vanilla. The delicacy is ubiquitous in the town of Jérémie, but when it makes the long journey back to Port-au-Prince with visitors, it is highly coveted – no bakery anywhere else on Hispaniola can replicate the real thing from Jérémie.

Meet the Locals

Tag along with us and Wilmar Belizaire from Jérémie as we take you to her favorite places to see, sleep, and savor in the city.

Need to Know

Jérémie is a town on the western edge of Haiti’s southern peninsula, famous as a birthplace of poets and for its striking turn-of-the-century cathedral.

Anse d’Azur – this spectacular sandy bay nearby is as picturesque as the very best of Caribbean beaches (minus the crowds).

August is the best time to visit, while Jérémie gears up for the patron saint festival of Saint Louis King of France.

Kay Gina & Nansky is a great place to browse art and get a quick bite of traditional carnival foods.

Makay Villa is the best place to sleep while you’re in town.

Konparèt – the essence of the Caribbean, distilled into a cake-like cookie. Win friends and favours by bringing this coveted delicacy back to Port-au-Prince.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published February 2020

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Photo Journal: Cayes-Jacmel

Just fifteen minutes outside of Cyvadier, by the city of Jacmel, is where you’ll find the small town of Cayes-Jacmel. A peaceful beachside haven with enough modern comforts to enhance its quaint, provincial feel, Cayes-Jacmel should be on everyone’s list for some tropical R and R.

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

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QUIZ: Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?

Are you a new visitor getting ready to explore Port-au-Prince, or an explorer ready for adventure in Dondon? Let’s test your knowledge of these 12 Haitian cities.

Start taking the quiz on the map below!

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

One of the country’s southernmost departments, and the home to cities like Jérémie and Abricots, Grand’Anse is where coastal cruising meets mainland adventures.

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Our hotel recommendations

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Hotel Cyvadier Plage

First Impressions

Rooms

What’s for breakfast?

How about lunch and dinner?

Is there a bar?

Activities and amenities

Within a short walk you can find…

Need to know (before you go)

Getting there

Hotel Cyvadier Plage

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Looking for some cool things to do?

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Photo Journal: Marigot

One hour east of the seaside city of Jacmel, the municipality of Marigot sits right between the edge of the water and an important element of everyday people’s lives.

Citadelle Henri

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

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Explore Jérémie

Top attractions in Jérémie

City of Poets

Where to sleep

Must-try Flavors

Meet the Locals

Need to Know

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Our recommendations

Paradise for your inbox

Plan Your Trip

Destinations

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Plan Your Trip

Destinations

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Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses