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Cap-Haïtien City Guide

The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

Cap-Haïtien City Guide: 350 Years of Stories, One Unforgettable City

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Cap-Haïtien is a city that refuses to be rushed. The pastel-colored facades of its colonial-era mansions hint at a storied past, while moto taxis zip through streets where revolution once brewed. Nicknamed The Paris of the Antilles, it was once the wealthiest city in the Caribbean—its grand architecture and rich cultural scene a testament to that golden age.

But Okap isn’t just about history. Mornings here start with strong Haitian coffee on the boulevard, afternoons drift by on palm-fringed beaches, and evenings hum with the rhythm of live konpa music. Whether you’re tracing the footsteps of Haiti’s revolutionaries or diving fork-first into a plate of grilled lambi, this city doesn’t just welcome visitors—it pulls them in.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings
Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

What to See and Do in Cap-Haïtien

Cap-Haïtien is a city best explored at street level. Colonial-era buildings with pastel facades line the streets, moto taxis weave between street vendors, and the scent of sizzling griot drifts from neighborhood eateries. Whether you’re drawn to history, bustling markets, or just soaking in the city’s energy, there’s plenty to take in.

Boulevard du Cap-Haïtien (Boulva Okap)
Start with a leisurely stroll down Boulevard du Cap, or Boulva Okap as locals call it. This waterfront stretch is the city’s beating heart, lined with cafés, restaurants, and bars where Cap-Haïtien comes alive—especially on Sundays, when locals gather to eat, drink, and unwind by the sea.

Want an insider’s perspective? We spoke to Za, a local guide, who shares her go-to spots for food, culture, and nightlife.

Notre Dame Cathedral
Anchoring Place d’Armes, Cap-Haïtien’s main square, this elegant cathedral is a city icon. First built in the 1600s and later reconstructed in the 20th century, its crisp white facade stands as a backdrop to daily life—street vendors, musicians, and people passing through.

Héros de Vertières
History isn’t just something you read about in Cap-Haïtien—it’s something you stand in. Héros de Vertières is an open-air monument commemorating the 1803 Battle of Vertières, the final fight for Haiti’s independence. A short drive from downtown, this stirring tribute to Jean-Jacques Dessalines and his troops is a must-visit—especially for those tracing their Haitian roots.

Marché Cluny (The Iron Market)
A riot of color, noise, and scent, Marché Cluny—often called Cap-Haïtien’s Iron Market—has been a bustling hub since 1890. Its cast-iron architecture mirrors the iconic Marché en Fer in Port-au-Prince, and inside, you’ll find everything from fresh produce to handcrafted vodou ritual objects. If you’re on the hunt for souvenirs with real character, this is the spot.

Boukanye Restaurant in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

Where to Eat & Drink in Cap-Haïtien

Cap-Haïtien’s food scene is a celebration of bold flavors and fresh ingredients, with seafood taking center stage. Fried fish, regional cashew-based specialties, and rich, slow-cooked stews fill menus across the city, offering plenty of local flavors to discover.

Here are a few standout spots:

Cap Deli
A go-to for generous portions and creative takes on local flavors, Cap Deli serves up some of the city’s most satisfying comfort food. Try the Meat Overloaded Fries, seafood pizza, or griot pizza, but if you’re looking for something truly special, go for the Bouillon Pêcheur—a rich seafood and vegetable soup packed with flavor.

Boukanye
With its breezy, relaxed vibe, Boukanye is a go-to for hearty Haitian classics. Their poisson gros sel—slow-cooked whole fish in a fragrant broth—is a must-try, especially when paired with diri djon djon, a local specialty made with black mushrooms.

Street food & kleren vendors
Some of the best flavors in Cap-Haïtien are found right on the street. Look out for vendors selling fritay (fried street snacks), crispy pâté (Haitian hand pies), and homemade kleren, Haiti’s artisanal sugarcane spirit. Street vendors often serve cups infused with ingredients like ginger, cinnamon, or medicinal roots that locals swear by. It’s strong—but if you want a real taste of Haiti, this is it.

Want more food recommendations? Check out our full list of Cap-Haïtien’s best restaurants and don’t miss our guide to Haitian street food for a deep dive into the country’s most irresistible bites.

Belly Beach near Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Best Beaches for Swimming, Snorkeling, and Sunbathing

History may have put Cap-Haïtien on the map, but its beaches keep people coming back. Whether you’re after a quiet stretch of sand, a tropical island escape, or just a good spot to sip an ice-cold Prestige, here’s where to go:

Cormier Plage
Just 20 minutes from downtown, this low-key beach is the kind of place where time slows down. Lounge under the palms, take a dip in the calm waters, and order a fresh seafood lunch without ever leaving your chair.

Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island)
If your idea of paradise is turquoise water, soft white sand, and zero crowds, hop on a boat to Île-à-Rat. This tiny offshore island is a local favorite, perfect for snorkeling, swimming, or just kicking back with a plate of grilled lobster. Make sure you take some bottles of Haitian rum with you for the trip!

Looking for more sun-drenched escapes? Check out our full guide to the best beaches near Cap-Haïtien.

Where to Stay

Cap-Haïtien has stays for every kind of traveler, whether you want ocean views, mountain breezes, or a private island escape. Here are three standout options:

Habitation des Lauriers
Perched above the city, Habitation des Lauriers offers unbeatable panoramic views and a peaceful retreat from the bustle below. The steep road up is no joke, but once you’re there, you’ll be surrounded by cool mountain air and lush greenery. Rooms range from budget-friendly basics to more comfortable options with AC and hot showers. The real highlight? Sunsets from the terrace.

Ekolojik Resort
For a nature-meets-comfort experience, Ekolojik Resort is tucked into the hills outside the city, offering a peaceful escape with views of Cap-Haïtien and the bay. The property is surrounded by fruit trees and lush greenery, and they focus on locally sourced, organic food. If you love waking up to fresh air and birdsong, this is your spot.

Chez Max
Only accessible by boat, Chez Max is a boutique B&B in a private cove, surrounded by tropical forest and turquoise water. The separate bungalows and villa offer a secluded, laid-back atmosphere with kayaks, paddleboards, and a private beach at your doorstep. Add in a delicious, homemade breakfast and it’s the ultimate off-the-grid hideaway.

Want more options? Check out our full guide on where to wake up in Cap-Haïtien.

Bartenden at Lakay in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

Nightlife & Live Music in Cap-Haïtien

As the day winds down, Cap-Haïtien doesn’t sleep—it just changes tempo. Locals spill onto terraces, kompa beats hum in the background, and the scent of grilled seafood lingers in the air. From breezy rooftops to beachside bars, here’s where to settle in for a drink and good company.

Lakay
A waterfront favorite for over 25 years, Lakay is as much about good vibes as great drinks. Expect a lively crowd, especially on Sunday nights, and don’t miss Salsa Thursdays, where you can pick up a few moves while sipping on a classic rum sour.

Les 3 Rois
Perched on the coastal road to Labadee, this hotel bar offers a peaceful atmosphere, a sea breeze, and dangerously good cocktails. The cassava accras (manioc fritters) are a mu5st, best paired with a fresh mojito while you watch the waves roll in.

Les Alizés
A stylish rooftop bar with modern architecture and panoramic views over the city. Come at sunset on weekends for an after-work crowd, DJ sets, and an unbeatable view of the Notre Dame Cathedral glowing in the evening light.

Citadelle Henri near Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Awesome Day-Trips

Most visitors to Cap-Haïtien make a beeline for Sans-Souci Palace and the Citadelle Henri, the city’s UNESCO-listed crown jewels. And while these historic landmarks are a must, venture a little further, and you’ll find places that feel worlds away—where citrus groves perfume the air, ancient carvings tell forgotten stories, and emerald pools shimmer in the hills. Here are three day trips that take you beyond the usual sights.

Wander Through the Orange Groves of Grand Marnier
Just outside Limonade, rolling fields of bitter orange trees stretch as far as the eye can see. The citrus grown here plays a key role in world-famous liqueurs like Grand Marnier and Cointreau. While official tours aren’t a thing, locals might just invite you to see the groves up close and share a taste of Haiti’s citrus-scented heritage.

Find Ancient Taíno Petroglyphs in Sainte-Suzanne
Hidden in the hills near Foulon, these centuries-old rock carvings whisper the stories of Haiti’s first inhabitants, the Taíno. The petroglyphs are etched into massive boulders, their meaning still a mystery, but their presence a powerful reminder of the island’s deep Indigenous roots. A local guide can help you find them—and share the legends tied to these ancient markings.

Cool Off in the Emerald Waters of Bassin Waka
Near Port-Margot, Bassin Waka is a freshwater oasis surrounded by lush greenery, where locals come to swim, unwind, and soak in the natural beauty. The water is impossibly clear, the fish dart between your feet, and the calm atmosphere makes it feel like a hidden retreat.

Looking for more ways to explore? Check out our guide to the coolest things to do in and around Cap-Haïtien.

Getting There & Getting Around

Getting to Cap-Haïtien is easier than you might think. Direct flights from Miami and Fort Lauderdale take just two hours, making it a quick escape to Haiti’s northern coast.

Once you’re here, getting around is part of the adventure. Moto taxis are the fastest way to navigate the city’s lively streets, while tap-taps—Haiti’s colorful shared taxis—offer a budget-friendly way to move between neighborhoods. Private taxis are also available, but don’t expect Uber or Lyft—ride-hailing apps don’t operate in Haiti.

Thinking about renting a car? It’s possible, but unless you’re highly experienced with Haitian roads, we strongly recommend hiring a local driver. For a different kind of transport, boat taxis can take you to nearby beaches and islands along the coast.

For more information, see our guides to getting to Haiti and public transportion within Haiti.


Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published December 2019.
Updated March 2025.


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Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival

Dancing at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Franck Fontain

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival

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More than just a party, Kanaval is a season that takes over Haiti, turning the entire country into a stage for creativity, revelry, and the uninhibited celebration of all things Haitian. Bold colors, fiery flavors, cheap (and dangerously good) rum, hypnotic music, and dancing that never stops—it’s all wrapped in a mix of mysterious folklore, mischievous spirits, and a deep sense of history. The echoes of Haiti’s colonial past stand side by side with its fiercely independent spirit, a reminder that this celebration is as much about identity as it is about revelry.

If you’re only in Haiti for a short time, the last thing you want is to waste hours figuring out where the party is. Plan ahead, head straight to Jacmel, and make your long weekend a non-stop Kanaval experience.

Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to Jacmel

Flying into Port-au-Prince is no longer a viable option, as the current volatility in the capital has made overland travel from Port-au-Prince to Jacmel impossible. Instead, you should fly into Cap-Haïtien, Haiti’s northern hub, and then take a Sunrise Airways domestic flight to Les Cayes in the south, which costs around $100 USD.

Once in Les Cayes, you can get to Jacmel via public transport in minivans known as tap-taps or by hiring a private taxi. The drive takes around five hours, but luckily, it’s one of the best-maintained roads in the country and offers some of the most scenic countryside views.

  • Tap-taps – The cheapest way to travel, costing around $35 USD, but also the most crowded. Expect a tight squeeze, lively conversations, and the chance to get out of your comfort zone. We recommend getting in early and head for the back row which offers fresh air and good access to the view of passing countryside.
  • Private taxi – A more comfortable (but significantly pricier) alternative. Rates vary, but expect to pay upwards of $200 USD for the trip.

Never taken a tap-tap before? Watch our guide on how to take a tap-tap in Haiti for tips on what to expect and how to ride like a local.

Once you arrive in Jacmel, prepare to be swamped by moto drivers who will enthusiastically vie for the chance to drive you to your accommodation. If you’re travelling light, you can walk: Jacmel is compact and everything’s within walking distance. If you feel like starting your trip with a shot of adrenaline, you can jump on a moto, but make sure you check this guide before you do.

Where to stay

If you book in advance, you can find accommodation at a spectrum of hotels, from historic lofty-ceilinged mansions of Victorian coffee barons like Hotel Florita to ocean view Airbnb villas with their own pool overlooking Jacmel bay like the Chic Chateau to family-owned hotels with private beach like Cyvadier Plage and maybe even a couchsurfing couch.

Whatever you choose, your local host will probably share with you their favourite way to enjoy Kanaval weekend. 

Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to party

First up, this is a three-day party. Slow and steady wins the race, so don’t get too swept away by the strange tides overtaking the city. The joy of Kanaval is in the air, but it’s perfectly fine to soak up the atmosphere from a distance while you settle into your room and crack open the first drink of the weekend.

If you make the rookie mistake of partying too hard on Friday night, you’ll be hitting the snooze button while everyone else is hitting the beach. On Saturday morning, the best move is to pack a bag and head to the beach, where it’s time to socialize, surf, and sip coconut water (or something stronger).

As night falls over the glistening bay of Jacmel, the energy shifts, and it’s time to pick your party. If you’re looking for a classic nightclub experience, Le Belvédère is one of Jacmel’s most iconic spots, located within walking distance of most city hotels. For something more high-energy, Var Club is a favorite, but since it’s a 10-minute drive from downtown, you’ll need to arrange transportation. Expect blasting Afrobeats, Kompa, Raratech, and other tropical rhythms—and don’t count on having much conversation.

If you’re after something more relaxed, L’Auberge du Vieux Port is the place to be, with live jazz performances and a slightly older crowd.

Stay up as late as you want, but don’t forget—Sunday is the big finale.

This brings us to the final stretch of the weekend: Sunday, and the main event. Kanaval proper is a parade that floods the streets with song, rhythm, and color. The creativity and intricacy of the masks are constantly astonishing. Alongside the bold primary colors, voluminous dresses, and towering turban-like headpieces you’d expect, you’ll find modern twists—body paint, avant-garde costumes, and masks that veer into the dark, bizarre, and surreal, rivaling the novelty and extravagance of Burning Man.

All of this unfolds to a ceaseless backdrop of Caribbean rhythm and voices lifted in song, often in Creole. The bands perform with unstoppable energy and stamina, and the “cha” will teach you that music can be played louder than you thought was possible. For the next twelve hours, the main streets will be packed with movement as the crowd dances, sings, and parties nonstop—straight into the early hours of Monday.

Curious about the characters and costumes of Jacmel Carnival? Check out our guide to the colorful figures that make Kanaval unforgettable.

Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval
Franck Fontain

Kanaval stands

If you’re serious about surviving Sunday, it’s worth spending $10–$30 USD for a stand ticket. Not only does it give you a home base to stash your belongings, but it also lets you dive into the crowd, ride the wave of the parade, and retreat to rest when needed.

If you’re in Haiti on a tight budget, you might be tempted to skip the stands in search of a more “authentic” (and cheaper) experience. But trust us—after hours of nonstop dancing, sun, and crowds, the convenience of a seat becomes priceless. It’s better to have a spot on a stand and not use it than to need a spot on a stand and not have it.

If you sprinted into the weekend on Friday night with a big hoorah then the parades, rara bands and cha’s on Sunday will more than likely exceed your tolerance for stimulus. But if you paced yourself, you’ll have the energy to keep up with the rum cocktails, the relentless music, and the chaotic beauty of it all.

Carnival is a party tsunami—vibrant mayhem, organized chaos, unfathomably loud, and absolutely unforgettable. And let’s be honest—once you’ve experienced it… you’ll be back.


Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018.
Updated February 2025.


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Escape to Kokoye Beach! Secluded. Stunning. Serene.

Umbrellas and palm trees on Kokoye Beach, Haiti
Kokoye Beach, Petit Goave
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Escape to Kokoye Beach! Secluded. Stunning. Serene.

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Looking for a weekend destination not far from Port-au-Prince? You’ll find the low-key glamping experience at Kokoye Beach that is an altogether different sort of luxury. Set into the unrivaled beauty of Haiti’s south coast, the pristine cove of Kokoye is just an hour’s boat ride from Petit-Goave.

Leave your troubles and your backpack in the tent provided, enjoy seafood served up by a local host, and spend your days swimming, snorkeling and drinking rum punch in a cove worthy of a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean.

“Glamping” (glamorous camping) is a popular alternative to both low-convenience regular camping and high-priced but underwhelming hotels, but what really sets glamping apart from either is the access it affords to wilderness, and is the uniqueness of the experience.

Kokoye Beach is one of the few beach excursions in Haiti that is set up for tourists, with all-inclusive boat trips departing daily. It’s a way to experience the white sand and lagoon-blue wonders of Haiti in comfort and on a budget. For more secluded beaches like Kokoye, check out our guide to Nine Lesser-known Beaches to Visit in Haiti.

Raw nature

Rocky outcrops stretch out on either side of the beach, bookending a pristine inlet. In the middle, an expanse of sparkling water stays tranquil and wave-free 90% of the time. It’s ideal for paddle boarding, snorkeling, kayaking and swimming. The water and white sand are pristine – the beach is maintained by local associations to keep tourists coming back for more.

Palm trees line white sand beaches that stretch into aqua water that is so unbelievably blue you’ll be tagging your Insta stories with #nofilter. The water is waist-deep until 200 meters out, perfect for bobbing the day away with an icy-cold rum punch in hand.

Come sunset, you can wind down lounging around bonfires, listening to local troubadours playing konpa classics on worn drums, and celebrate into the night.

With no electricity nearby, stargazers will be delighted by some of the Caribbean’s starriest skies. On a related note – pack head-torches or flashlights and extra battery packs for any phones and cameras you plan on using. The west of the beach offers access to modern toilets and showers where you can rinse off the seawater at the end of the day.

This is Haiti as it was made to be experienced. A hotel room is a hotel room but when you stay in a tent on the sand, and nap on a hammock strung between two coconut palms, it’s a unique way to feel immersed in the natural beauty this part of the world has to offer. Watching the sunrise over the water with no walls between you, and the sea at your fingertips, can be a life-changing experience.

Beach-side feasts at Kokoye Beach

When you get hungry, you’ll be glad you’re not quite roughing it: A team of experienced, professional staff will ensure you’re well-fed with fresh, flavorful meals that celebrate Haiti’s rich culinary heritage. Picture fresh seafood grilled over sizzling embers, the aroma of hot Haitian coffee wafting through the morning breeze, and the gentle sound of waves as your backdrop.

If sea-to-table and farm-to-fork dining define luxury, then Kokoye Beach takes it a step further. Breakfast brings the irresistible combination of Haitian coffee, cane sugar, and cassava bread served with locally-made peanut butter and fresh seasonal fruit. Feeling adventurous? Dive into the uniquely Haitian tradition of spaghetti for breakfast, a hearty and flavorful dish that’s both surprising and satisfying.

Lunch and dinner are all about showcasing the freshest seafood: grilled lambi (conch), fish, or lobster, straight from the ocean to your plate. These dishes are infused with the bold flavors of Haitian cuisine, seasoned with a mouthwatering blend of garlic, lime, hot peppers, and spices. For vegetarians, there are options featuring local produce, such as roasted plantains, avocado salads, or hearty bean stews.

Sustainability is key at Kokoye Beach. Most ingredients are locally caught or grown, supporting nearby communities and reducing the environmental impact of your meal. Whether it’s a seaside feast under the stars or a sunrise breakfast with a view, dining at Kokoye Beach is as much an experience as the adventure itself.

Curious about the breathtaking underwater world or the serene beauty of Kokoye Beach? Watch this video for a closer look at what awaits!

Feeling more adventurous?

You can explore sea caves on the north end of the beach, a 15 to 20-minute swim away, where the crystal-clear waters reveal hidden marine wonders. Snorkelers will love the vibrant underwater world around the caves, teeming with colorful fish and coral formations.

Looking for something inland? Hike around the southeast end of the beach to discover the ruins of a swimming pool and a crumbling mansion from a bygone era—perfect for history buffs and photographers alike.

If birdwatching is your thing, keep an eye out for the diverse avian life that thrives along the coast, from graceful egrets to tropical songbirds.

For a longer adventure, head west down the coast to explore the historic ruins of Fort Royal near Petit-Goâve. This hidden treasure offers a glimpse into Haiti’s colonial past, with its weathered stone walls and stunning views of the coastline.

Getting there

Kokoye Beach is located on a remote peninsula south of Petit-Goave, and it is only accessible by boat, or extreme hiking for 2-3 hours. There is no car access, which makes it feel more like an island escape. Visitors can call ahead to reserve tents, sleeping bags, and other comforts with a local host. People like Madam Fanfan (509) 4028 – 31 66 will also be able to help arrange your boat travel.

It’s also possible to arrange for an impromptu water taxi from the pier in Petit Goave. The boat ride time will vary depending on the motor and number of people aboard and visitors can expect to pay more for covered boats. While on the boat ride you’ll see local fisherman in their element, and freediving is a regular sight, as are sailboats sluicing by at slower speeds. The water changes from indigo blue to turquoise to aqua as you skim along the shore toward Kokoye.

Just over halfway there, Bananier Beach – a popular destination in its own right – is usually the first stop. Kokoye Beach is 20 minutes further down the coast.

Tips for making the most of your trip

To ensure a smooth and enjoyable excursion to Kokoye Beach, come prepared with plenty of Haitian gourdes in small denominations. While prices in Haiti have risen over the past couple of years, carrying smaller bills (25, 50, 100, and 250 gourdes) is still essential for tipping, purchasing snacks, or paying for any additional services. On this remote peninsula, making change can be challenging, so having exact amounts helps support the local economy and reduces stress for your hosts.

While US dollars are generally accepted in lieu of gourdes, you may get a less favorable exchange rate, so exchanging money beforehand is recommended.

Planning your trip is all about striking the right balance between adventure and comfort. If you’re looking for a DIY experience, bring your own snacks, drinks, or gear to enhance your time. However, for those who prefer to fully embrace the convenience of Kokoye Beach’s facilities, rest assured the dedicated staff will make your visit memorable with excellent food and attentive service.

Whether you’re seeking adventure or relaxation, Kokoye Beach is the perfect destination to disconnect from the daily grind and reconnect with nature.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published July 2018.
Updated December 2024.


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The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

A green yacht in aqua waters just off the beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

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We’ve rounded up a list of the best destinations for you to kick your feet up, relax, and enjoy the best Haiti’s coasts have to offer!

All of the destinations listed here can be reached by car – it’s easy to hire one in Port-au-Prince, but book ahead if you can. For an adventurous traveller fluent in French or Kreol, a journey via tap-tap to either Jacmel or Cap-Haïtien is an experience you won’t find anywhere else in the world, but for first-time visitors, we recommend hiring a car or driver.

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise hotel and restaurant in Jacmel, Haiti
Alliance Francaise in Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

01. Jacmel

For international travellers, Jacmel is famous mostly for its annual carnival. Located in the south, with a vibrant festival and music scene steeped in history, and plenty of bars to choose from, Jacmel might be considered Haiti’s New Orleans.

From beautiful beaches to fantastic festivals and an endless array of artistic expression, this city is the cultural capital of Haiti. Just a two-hour drive southwest of Port-au-Prince, Jacmel is also one of the most accessible destinations.

Around 15km east of Jacmel you’ll find the fishing village of Cayes-Jacmel, where most of the rocking chairs you’ll see around Haiti are made. A few more kilometers east and you’ll come to Plage Ti Mouillage, a stunning white-sand beach framed by coconut palms, with a bar stocked with ice-cold drinks and fresh seafood.  

Further east, you’ll find gorgeous Marigot. A coffee-growing town, Marigot has rated several times in Haiti’s top-ten communes. For a very reasonable price, you can wake up in an excellent boutique hotel with ocean views, the sounds of roosters crowing, and the smell of home-grown coffee roasting. 

Lounge chairs beneath trees at Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve, Haiti
Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve
Photo: Anton Lau

02. Village Taino, Grand-Goâve

Two hours west of Port-au-Prince is a small oasis, nestled among the tall trees of Grand-Goâve. Grand-Goâve is one of the oldest settlements in Haiti – its name dates back to the Amerindians who called it home before the arrival of Spanish colonists in the 16th century.

Village Taino is a set of beachside bungalows that opens up on the powdery sands of Haiti’s southern peninsula. If you like your beach escapes to be secluded and exclusive, you will enjoy the privacy of the bungalows, as well as the daily catered seafood, caught and cooked on location.

Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Photo: Bowerbill, Wikimedia Commons

03. Royal Decameron, Montrouis

Looking for world-class beachside relaxation? Royal Decameron, smack in the middle of the Arcadins coast, is your go-to for an all-inclusive experience in Haiti. With spacious rooms, swimming pools, authentic Haitian food, and recurring activities to keep you entertained throughout the days and evenings, it really is the easiest place to go for a weekend of unscripted relaxation and fun!

beach with people swimming and small wooden boat
People swiming at Amani-y Beach in Saint-Marc
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Amani-y Beach, Saint-Marc

Looking for something outside the popular beach resorts of the Arcadins coast? Amani-y Beach may be the treasure you seek. Located close by La Colline Hotel, it is one of Saint-Marc’s most picturesque beaches. Surrounded by the tree-clad hills that border Baie de Sant-Marc, clear blue waters stretch out for miles. Amani-y Beach offers all of the island flair with none of the touristic fuss.

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti
Cap Haitien Labadi
Photo: Verdy Verna

05. Cap-Haïtien

Accessible via car, if you’re into sightseeing; tap-tap, if you’re here for adventure; or plane if you can’t wait to get there, Cap-Haïtien is one of those cities you need a couple of days set aside to explore.

The beach of Cormier is one of the most underappreciated on the island – and only about twenty minutes away from the main city by car. The food options on the main boulevard, which you can walk to from most hotels, are mouthwatering and many – Lakay? Boukanye? Cap Deli? Barik? Lolo? Come hungry!

Deck chair under a thatch umbrella at Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

06. Abaka Bay Resort, Île-à-Vache

Île-à-Vache is a magical place. Ever wondered what it would be like to live on a small island, just enjoying the pleasures of the sea lapping at your feet under a palm tree? Abaka Bay Resort is the place for you. Between horseback riding, kayaking, and peaceful walks on the shore in the evening, you might even find time to finish your book. This is an enchanting destination for travellers seeking quality rest and relaxation.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2019


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Jacmel City Guide

Ocean boardwalk in Jacmel
Boardwalk at Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

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Urban Guides: Jacmel

Whether you’re looking for adventure, nature, fast festival rhythms, rejuvenation on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel will slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

old colonial houses in coastal city
City center of Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Switch off in the City of Light

Once dubbed the “City of Light,” the seaside city of Jacmel was the first place in the Caribbean to get electricity back in the nineteenth century. These days, there’s something else unusual about Jacmel’s power use – it’s limited, meaning if you Airbnb here, you better be prepared with backup batteries for the daily ritual of switching off from the grid.

For many Americans power outages are rare, unpredictable, inconvenient and even spooky. They’re when you realise you forgot to put fresh batteries in your flashlights, and/or leave your flashlights where you can find them in the dark. For the residents of Jacmel, though, it’s part of the daily rhythm, and it doesn’t seem to phase the travellers who love coming back to Jacmel every year. Jacmel is famous for festivals, and in-between it’s a magical destination, well-equipped to help you switch-off and hit reset.

Stairs with a mosaic of words in Jacmel, Haiti
Stairs with mosaik art in Jacmel
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Art & Culture

Known as the culture capital of Haiti, Jacmel is a hub for art, folklore, foodies, festivals and nightlife. Colorful paper-mache creations, often seen during Jacmel’s annual carnival, can be found and bought all year round. Many of the masks and paintings are reflective of Haiti’s deeply unique religion – the potent symbology of Haitian Vodou infuses the city streets.

Jacmel is a compact city, and easy to explore on foot. For a closer look, you can ask local guides Experience Jacmel to take you to visit a Vodou “peristyle” or help you make your own carnival mask.

A tourist stands on a stone bridge across rapids at Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Are you more of an outdoorsy-type? Jacmel offers excellent proximity to many of Haiti’s most exciting al-fresco adventures. Reconnect with nature at La Vallée, Bassin BleuMarigot or Fort Ogè in Cap Rouge – all within a short drive or a sturdy hike.

The tropical sun will test your mettle, but for the brave and well-prepared there are caves waiting to be discovered, waterfalls waiting to be jumped off of and swam under, steep and shady jungle paths for you to leave footprints on, and crisp mountain air to reset your cortisol levels. You’ll find adventure itineraries suited to your level from novice hiker to hardened overland survivor.

people swimming by beach with trees
La Saline Beach in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Crazy-good beaches

If you’d rather hit the snooze button than the gym, no sweat! Beach bums can relax at one of Jacmel’s several stunning strips of paradisian sand, including Cyvadier, Raymond les Bains, L’Amitie and Kabic.  Soak up the sun, catch some waves, sip on a coconut (would you like that with rum?), and lick your fingers after a plate of freshly caught and barbecued seafood.

Whether you’re hoping to realign your chakras or just happy to find inner peace in a succession of ice-cold rum cocktails, you’ll find bliss on the beaches of Jacmel.

The colorful exterior of Cafe Koze in Jacmel, Haiti
Cafe Koze in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The food culture in Jacmel is thriving, and published guides struggle to keep up with the pace of new hotels, bars and restaurants springing up all of the place.

Take to the mosaic boardwalk as you trace the coastline, by day a popular place for active types out jogging, and by night full of eclectically-clothed hipster students. Venture just a couple of streets inland from the boardwalk and you’ll find a mix of traditional and boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries, with a few souvenir shops thrown into the mix.

Where to eat

If you’ve just arrived, settle in at the chilled-out Cafe Koze, where you can people-watch over their mouth-watering homemade rum-and-raisin ice-cream.

Hotel Florita, once the mansion of a coffee magnate, will appeal to fans of Graham Greene. Here you can sit in the sultry semi-open courtyard (the UNESCO-listed hotel has no air conditioners), and sip a traditional Haitian filter coffee – exceedingly sweet and rich, and every bit as addictive as Vietnamese coffee. The restaurant serves excellent Haitian food palatable for cautious Americans and Europeans, but be warned: waiting times can exceed an hour. You won’t mind though, because they also make delectable rum sours, and the first is on the house!

If what you’re after is exotic food and exquisite beachfront views, head to Hotel Cyvadier Plage. Their shrimp and chicken dishes are crowd pleasers, but their specialty is in brightly constructed plates based on seasonal catch. In fact, if you’re breakfasting in the courtyard (and know a little French), you’re so close to the lapping shore that you can chat with fisherman as they tie up their boats to deliver the catch of the day.

Where to drink

Start with La Taverne or Belle Epoque Barak. La Taverne is where you’ll find more rum sours, and occasionally salsa performances. Belle Epoque is where expats go to stay up late listening to hip hop and house. They also do pretty good wings – not a bad way to line your stomach before a long rum-fuelled night of dancing.

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dance to your own beat

Jacmel is one of the friendliest and most tranquil cities in Haiti, but if you want to pack the most into a short break here, the best way to plug yourself into the pulse that feeds the city is to book in advance to stay during one of the festival weekends. Renowned DJs and artists will bring together hundreds, sometimes thousands of people, from all walks of life, to sing, dance, and celebrate. Whether your flavour of choice is rara or bachata, compa or salsa, house or tango, ask around on a holiday weekend, and you will find your party.

There’s too many festivals to list them all here, but briefly: Independence Day and New Years Day share January 1, and Carnival (think an Afro-Caribbean Mardi Gras) is held in the lead up to Shrove Tuesday. There’s also festivals that celebrate storytelling, rum, and the identity-affirming Rara.

Who should go?

Jacmel holds something for everyone.  Whether you are looking for new adventure, to reconnect nature, to let your hair down surrounded by the pounding festival rhythms, or to rejuvenate on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel has something to slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

One last thing before you head back up over the mountains: buy yourself a t-shirt that reads “Jacmel Mwen Fou Pou Ou” (Kreyol for “Jacmel, I’m Crazy For You”) and become part of the unofficial Jacmel fan club. Welcome to the gang.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018.