TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

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Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival

Dancing at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Franck Fontain

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival

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More than just a party, Kanaval is a season that takes over Haiti, turning the entire country into a stage for creativity, revelry, and the uninhibited celebration of all things Haitian. Bold colors, fiery flavors, cheap (and dangerously good) rum, hypnotic music, and dancing that never stops—it’s all wrapped in a mix of mysterious folklore, mischievous spirits, and a deep sense of history. The echoes of Haiti’s colonial past stand side by side with its fiercely independent spirit, a reminder that this celebration is as much about identity as it is about revelry.

If you’re only in Haiti for a short time, the last thing you want is to waste hours figuring out where the party is. Plan ahead, head straight to Jacmel, and make your long weekend a non-stop Kanaval experience.

Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to Jacmel

Flying into Port-au-Prince is no longer a viable option, as the current volatility in the capital has made overland travel from Port-au-Prince to Jacmel impossible. Instead, you should fly into Cap-Haïtien, Haiti’s northern hub, and then take a Sunrise Airways domestic flight to Les Cayes in the south, which costs around $100 USD.

Once in Les Cayes, you can get to Jacmel via public transport in minivans known as tap-taps or by hiring a private taxi. The drive takes around five hours, but luckily, it’s one of the best-maintained roads in the country and offers some of the most scenic countryside views.

  • Tap-taps – The cheapest way to travel, costing around $35 USD, but also the most crowded. Expect a tight squeeze, lively conversations, and the chance to get out of your comfort zone. We recommend getting in early and head for the back row which offers fresh air and good access to the view of passing countryside.
  • Private taxi – A more comfortable (but significantly pricier) alternative. Rates vary, but expect to pay upwards of $200 USD for the trip.

Never taken a tap-tap before? Watch our guide on how to take a tap-tap in Haiti for tips on what to expect and how to ride like a local.

Once you arrive in Jacmel, prepare to be swamped by moto drivers who will enthusiastically vie for the chance to drive you to your accommodation. If you’re travelling light, you can walk: Jacmel is compact and everything’s within walking distance. If you feel like starting your trip with a shot of adrenaline, you can jump on a moto, but make sure you check this guide before you do.

Where to stay

If you book in advance, you can find accommodation at a spectrum of hotels, from historic lofty-ceilinged mansions of Victorian coffee barons like Hotel Florita to ocean view Airbnb villas with their own pool overlooking Jacmel bay like the Chic Chateau to family-owned hotels with private beach like Cyvadier Plage and maybe even a couchsurfing couch.

Whatever you choose, your local host will probably share with you their favourite way to enjoy Kanaval weekend. 

Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to party

First up, this is a three-day party. Slow and steady wins the race, so don’t get too swept away by the strange tides overtaking the city. The joy of Kanaval is in the air, but it’s perfectly fine to soak up the atmosphere from a distance while you settle into your room and crack open the first drink of the weekend.

If you make the rookie mistake of partying too hard on Friday night, you’ll be hitting the snooze button while everyone else is hitting the beach. On Saturday morning, the best move is to pack a bag and head to the beach, where it’s time to socialize, surf, and sip coconut water (or something stronger).

As night falls over the glistening bay of Jacmel, the energy shifts, and it’s time to pick your party. If you’re looking for a classic nightclub experience, Le Belvédère is one of Jacmel’s most iconic spots, located within walking distance of most city hotels. For something more high-energy, Var Club is a favorite, but since it’s a 10-minute drive from downtown, you’ll need to arrange transportation. Expect blasting Afrobeats, Kompa, Raratech, and other tropical rhythms—and don’t count on having much conversation.

If you’re after something more relaxed, L’Auberge du Vieux Port is the place to be, with live jazz performances and a slightly older crowd.

Stay up as late as you want, but don’t forget—Sunday is the big finale.

This brings us to the final stretch of the weekend: Sunday, and the main event. Kanaval proper is a parade that floods the streets with song, rhythm, and color. The creativity and intricacy of the masks are constantly astonishing. Alongside the bold primary colors, voluminous dresses, and towering turban-like headpieces you’d expect, you’ll find modern twists—body paint, avant-garde costumes, and masks that veer into the dark, bizarre, and surreal, rivaling the novelty and extravagance of Burning Man.

All of this unfolds to a ceaseless backdrop of Caribbean rhythm and voices lifted in song, often in Creole. The bands perform with unstoppable energy and stamina, and the “cha” will teach you that music can be played louder than you thought was possible. For the next twelve hours, the main streets will be packed with movement as the crowd dances, sings, and parties nonstop—straight into the early hours of Monday.

Curious about the characters and costumes of Jacmel Carnival? Check out our guide to the colorful figures that make Kanaval unforgettable.

Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval
Franck Fontain

Kanaval stands

If you’re serious about surviving Sunday, it’s worth spending $10–$30 USD for a stand ticket. Not only does it give you a home base to stash your belongings, but it also lets you dive into the crowd, ride the wave of the parade, and retreat to rest when needed.

If you’re in Haiti on a tight budget, you might be tempted to skip the stands in search of a more “authentic” (and cheaper) experience. But trust us—after hours of nonstop dancing, sun, and crowds, the convenience of a seat becomes priceless. It’s better to have a spot on a stand and not use it than to need a spot on a stand and not have it.

If you sprinted into the weekend on Friday night with a big hoorah then the parades, rara bands and cha’s on Sunday will more than likely exceed your tolerance for stimulus. But if you paced yourself, you’ll have the energy to keep up with the rum cocktails, the relentless music, and the chaotic beauty of it all.

Carnival is a party tsunami—vibrant mayhem, organized chaos, unfathomably loud, and absolutely unforgettable. And let’s be honest—once you’ve experienced it… you’ll be back.


Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018.
Updated February 2025.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Escape to Kokoye Beach! Secluded. Stunning. Serene.

Umbrellas and palm trees on Kokoye Beach, Haiti
Kokoye Beach, Petit Goave
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Escape to Kokoye Beach! Secluded. Stunning. Serene.

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Looking for a weekend destination not far from Port-au-Prince? You’ll find the low-key glamping experience at Kokoye Beach that is an altogether different sort of luxury. Set into the unrivaled beauty of Haiti’s south coast, the pristine cove of Kokoye is just an hour’s boat ride from Petit-Goave.

Leave your troubles and your backpack in the tent provided, enjoy seafood served up by a local host, and spend your days swimming, snorkeling and drinking rum punch in a cove worthy of a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean.

“Glamping” (glamorous camping) is a popular alternative to both low-convenience regular camping and high-priced but underwhelming hotels, but what really sets glamping apart from either is the access it affords to wilderness, and is the uniqueness of the experience.

Kokoye Beach is one of the few beach excursions in Haiti that is set up for tourists, with all-inclusive boat trips departing daily. It’s a way to experience the white sand and lagoon-blue wonders of Haiti in comfort and on a budget. For more secluded beaches like Kokoye, check out our guide to Nine Lesser-known Beaches to Visit in Haiti.

Raw nature

Rocky outcrops stretch out on either side of the beach, bookending a pristine inlet. In the middle, an expanse of sparkling water stays tranquil and wave-free 90% of the time. It’s ideal for paddle boarding, snorkeling, kayaking and swimming. The water and white sand are pristine – the beach is maintained by local associations to keep tourists coming back for more.

Palm trees line white sand beaches that stretch into aqua water that is so unbelievably blue you’ll be tagging your Insta stories with #nofilter. The water is waist-deep until 200 meters out, perfect for bobbing the day away with an icy-cold rum punch in hand.

Come sunset, you can wind down lounging around bonfires, listening to local troubadours playing konpa classics on worn drums, and celebrate into the night.

With no electricity nearby, stargazers will be delighted by some of the Caribbean’s starriest skies. On a related note – pack head-torches or flashlights and extra battery packs for any phones and cameras you plan on using. The west of the beach offers access to modern toilets and showers where you can rinse off the seawater at the end of the day.

This is Haiti as it was made to be experienced. A hotel room is a hotel room but when you stay in a tent on the sand, and nap on a hammock strung between two coconut palms, it’s a unique way to feel immersed in the natural beauty this part of the world has to offer. Watching the sunrise over the water with no walls between you, and the sea at your fingertips, can be a life-changing experience.

Beach-side feasts at Kokoye Beach

When you get hungry, you’ll be glad you’re not quite roughing it: A team of experienced, professional staff will ensure you’re well-fed with fresh, flavorful meals that celebrate Haiti’s rich culinary heritage. Picture fresh seafood grilled over sizzling embers, the aroma of hot Haitian coffee wafting through the morning breeze, and the gentle sound of waves as your backdrop.

If sea-to-table and farm-to-fork dining define luxury, then Kokoye Beach takes it a step further. Breakfast brings the irresistible combination of Haitian coffee, cane sugar, and cassava bread served with locally-made peanut butter and fresh seasonal fruit. Feeling adventurous? Dive into the uniquely Haitian tradition of spaghetti for breakfast, a hearty and flavorful dish that’s both surprising and satisfying.

Lunch and dinner are all about showcasing the freshest seafood: grilled lambi (conch), fish, or lobster, straight from the ocean to your plate. These dishes are infused with the bold flavors of Haitian cuisine, seasoned with a mouthwatering blend of garlic, lime, hot peppers, and spices. For vegetarians, there are options featuring local produce, such as roasted plantains, avocado salads, or hearty bean stews.

Sustainability is key at Kokoye Beach. Most ingredients are locally caught or grown, supporting nearby communities and reducing the environmental impact of your meal. Whether it’s a seaside feast under the stars or a sunrise breakfast with a view, dining at Kokoye Beach is as much an experience as the adventure itself.

Curious about the breathtaking underwater world or the serene beauty of Kokoye Beach? Watch this video for a closer look at what awaits!

Feeling more adventurous?

You can explore sea caves on the north end of the beach, a 15 to 20-minute swim away, where the crystal-clear waters reveal hidden marine wonders. Snorkelers will love the vibrant underwater world around the caves, teeming with colorful fish and coral formations.

Looking for something inland? Hike around the southeast end of the beach to discover the ruins of a swimming pool and a crumbling mansion from a bygone era—perfect for history buffs and photographers alike.

If birdwatching is your thing, keep an eye out for the diverse avian life that thrives along the coast, from graceful egrets to tropical songbirds.

For a longer adventure, head west down the coast to explore the historic ruins of Fort Royal near Petit-Goâve. This hidden treasure offers a glimpse into Haiti’s colonial past, with its weathered stone walls and stunning views of the coastline.

Getting there

Kokoye Beach is located on a remote peninsula south of Petit-Goave, and it is only accessible by boat, or extreme hiking for 2-3 hours. There is no car access, which makes it feel more like an island escape. Visitors can call ahead to reserve tents, sleeping bags, and other comforts with a local host. People like Madam Fanfan (509) 4028 – 31 66 will also be able to help arrange your boat travel.

It’s also possible to arrange for an impromptu water taxi from the pier in Petit Goave. The boat ride time will vary depending on the motor and number of people aboard and visitors can expect to pay more for covered boats. While on the boat ride you’ll see local fisherman in their element, and freediving is a regular sight, as are sailboats sluicing by at slower speeds. The water changes from indigo blue to turquoise to aqua as you skim along the shore toward Kokoye.

Just over halfway there, Bananier Beach – a popular destination in its own right – is usually the first stop. Kokoye Beach is 20 minutes further down the coast.

Tips for making the most of your trip

To ensure a smooth and enjoyable excursion to Kokoye Beach, come prepared with plenty of Haitian gourdes in small denominations. While prices in Haiti have risen over the past couple of years, carrying smaller bills (25, 50, 100, and 250 gourdes) is still essential for tipping, purchasing snacks, or paying for any additional services. On this remote peninsula, making change can be challenging, so having exact amounts helps support the local economy and reduces stress for your hosts.

While US dollars are generally accepted in lieu of gourdes, you may get a less favorable exchange rate, so exchanging money beforehand is recommended.

Planning your trip is all about striking the right balance between adventure and comfort. If you’re looking for a DIY experience, bring your own snacks, drinks, or gear to enhance your time. However, for those who prefer to fully embrace the convenience of Kokoye Beach’s facilities, rest assured the dedicated staff will make your visit memorable with excellent food and attentive service.

Whether you’re seeking adventure or relaxation, Kokoye Beach is the perfect destination to disconnect from the daily grind and reconnect with nature.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published July 2018.
Updated December 2024.


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Cap-Haïtien City Guide

church cathedral in cap-haitien, haiti
The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

City Guide: Cap-Haïtien

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The Paris of the Antilles

Cap-Haïtien is Haiti’s second largest city, popular with travellers because of its proximity to world-class beaches and UNESCO heritage sites. 

A key city during the Caribbean colonial period, Cap‑Français (as it was then named) earned the nicknamed the Paris of the Antilles for its sophisticated architecture and artistic culture. It was the capital city of the French colony of Saint Domingue from 1711 until the Haitian Revolution, when it became the capital of the Kingdom of Northern Haiti under King Henri Christophe. Christophe renamed the city from Cap‑Français to Cap-Henri. When Christophe died in 1820, the whole island of Hispaniola was briefly unified, and it was in the early phases of this (re)unification that Cap-Haïtien was given the name it has today. Mostly, though, you’ll hear this beautiful city called simply “Le Cap”.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings
Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

What to see and do in Cap-Haïtien

The Cathedral
The early 20th century Notre Dame Cathedral (also known as the Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, Cap-Haïtien Cathedral and (French) Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l’Assomption.

Héros de Vertières
Héros de Vertières (Heroes Monument of Vertières) is an open-air sculpture park dedicated to the heroes of the 1803 Battle of Vertieres.

The Battle of Vertières was the last major battle of the Second War of Haitian Independence, and the final battle of the Haitian Revolution led by Jean Jacques Dessalines. It was fought on November 18, just south of what is now Cap-Haïtien.

An inspiring site that celebrates a remarkable moment in history, a visit to the Heroes de Vertieres is especially empowering for travelers from the Haitian diaspora. The monument is on the western outskirts of the city, within a five-minute drive of both Hôtel Impérial and one of our favorite places to eat in Cap-Haïtien, Lakay.

The Bottle Gate(s) (French: “Barrière Bouteille” / “Barrières Bouteilles”)
These iconic bottle-shaped structures mark the historic entrance to the city.

The Iron Market (French: Marche au Fer)
Named after the iconic Port-au-Prince Iron Market, this lively market is housed inside a Victorian-era cast iron pavilion. First built in 1890 under Haitian engineer Alexandre Bobo, Cap-Haïtien’s Iron Market has attracted tourists since the 1960s thanks to its impressive period architecture and the huge range of handicrafts sold here – especially colorful ritual objects associated with vodou practice. Today, the Iron Market is a chaotic sprawl of craftspeople and food vendors hawking their produce.

Dance to live music
Let your hair down like a local with these Cap-Haïtien musice scene stalwarts: Septentrional and Tropicana d’Haiti. Catch them at a venue called Versailles (named after the French royal palace).

yellow restaurant building in cap-haitien
Lakay, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to eat

Lakay: Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent (and huge!) traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Boukanye: our favorite place to drink coffee in Cap-Haïtien, this pirate-themed hangout is a great bar by night but a cozy café by day.

Cap Deli: serving up some of the freshest food in the city, Cap Deli is the place to go in Cap-Haïtien for American-style burgers and pizza.

Lolo: a new Italian-Haitian restaurant, Lolo serves exquisite fresh pasta and fine wine.

Must-try local specialities: Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Woman throwing a towel down to relax on the beach on Amiga Island, Ile-a-rat
Amiga Island, (Ile-a-Rat) close to Cap Haitien
Photo: Anton Lau

Best beaches

The best beaches nearby are Cormier, Labadee and Île-à-Rat Island (Amiga Island).

The beach at Cormier is one of the most under-appreciated on the island – and only a twenty minute drive from downtown Cap-Haïtien.

Labadee Beach is one of the crowning jewels of Haiti, with fine sands and crystal-clear blue water that attracts cruise ships from around the world.

Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island) is a tiny island off the beaches west of Cap-Haïtien. This little paradise is a microcosm of what makes Haiti one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean, with fine white sand beaches, shady palm trees, warm turquoise waters, incredible fresh seafood – and fewer crowds. The swimming is superb, and snorkelers can find half-buried colonial artillery and anchors.

For USD $40 a boat taxi from Labadee will take you to Île-à-Rat, and for an extra USD $15 they’ll cook you up a fresh lunch of lobster, octopus, crab or fish, all caught locally. Make sure you take some ice-cold bottles of rum and Prestige with you for the trip!

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti
Boat taxis going to Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island)
Photo: Verdy Verna

Where to sleep

All-inclusive resorts:
Cormier Beach Resort

Ocean view hotels:
Top hotels include Hôtel ImpérialHotel SatamaHabitation Jouissant, Habitation des Lauriers and Mont Joli

Hidden Gem:
Kay Lolo Plage

Only accessible by boat, Kay Lolo Plage is a boutique B&B secluded in a private cove and surrounded by tropical forest. The separate bungalows and villa are in great condition and offer travellers a private beach with gorgeous views, birdsong and very exclusive vibes. There’s no wifi or running water here, but you’ll find kayaks, paddleboards and a breakfast cooked just for you.

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière and mountain range, Haiti
Citadelle Laferrière, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Awesome day-trips

South of Cap-Haïtien, Citadelle Laferriere is a hilltop fortress built by revolutionary leader Henri Christophe. 

Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferriere. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

The city of Dondon is located about two hours south of Cap-Haïtien and has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno people lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

Getting there

American Airlines fly direct from Miami to Cap-Haitian, with fares starting at US $127 and a flight time of less than two hours.

From Port-au-Prince, Haiti’s capital city, Sunrise Airways will take you to CAP in 45 minutes for less than US $100, but it’s more fun, and you’ll see more of Haiti, if you jump on a cross-country bus or rent a car. On wheels, the journey from PAP to CAP will take four hours or more, depending on your route. Will you drive inland via Lake Peligre and Bassin Zim, or along the Caribbean coastline via Montrouis and Gonaïves?

Coming from the Dominican Republic? Caribe Tours, the most popular bus company in Dominican Republic, runs daily from Santiago to Cap-Haïtien. The journey takes roughly five hours: two and a half hours from Santiago to Dajabon, on the Dominican border, then another hour from Haitian border town Ouathamije to Cap-Haïtien. Return tickets cost US $25 per person, plus an extra US $25 border-crossing fee.

For more information, see our guides to getting to Haiti and transport within Haiti.


Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published December 2019


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

A green yacht in aqua waters just off the beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

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We’ve rounded up a list of the best destinations for you to kick your feet up, relax, and enjoy the best Haiti’s coasts have to offer!

All of the destinations listed here can be reached by car – it’s easy to hire one in Port-au-Prince, but book ahead if you can. For an adventurous traveller fluent in French or Kreol, a journey via tap-tap to either Jacmel or Cap-Haïtien is an experience you won’t find anywhere else in the world, but for first-time visitors, we recommend hiring a car or driver.

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise hotel and restaurant in Jacmel, Haiti
Alliance Francaise in Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

01. Jacmel

For international travellers, Jacmel is famous mostly for its annual carnival. Located in the south, with a vibrant festival and music scene steeped in history, and plenty of bars to choose from, Jacmel might be considered Haiti’s New Orleans.

From beautiful beaches to fantastic festivals and an endless array of artistic expression, this city is the cultural capital of Haiti. Just a two-hour drive southwest of Port-au-Prince, Jacmel is also one of the most accessible destinations.

Around 15km east of Jacmel you’ll find the fishing village of Cayes-Jacmel, where most of the rocking chairs you’ll see around Haiti are made. A few more kilometers east and you’ll come to Plage Ti Mouillage, a stunning white-sand beach framed by coconut palms, with a bar stocked with ice-cold drinks and fresh seafood.  

Further east, you’ll find gorgeous Marigot. A coffee-growing town, Marigot has rated several times in Haiti’s top-ten communes. For a very reasonable price, you can wake up in an excellent boutique hotel with ocean views, the sounds of roosters crowing, and the smell of home-grown coffee roasting. 

Lounge chairs beneath trees at Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve, Haiti
Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve
Photo: Anton Lau

02. Village Taino, Grand-Goâve

Two hours west of Port-au-Prince is a small oasis, nestled among the tall trees of Grand-Goâve. Grand-Goâve is one of the oldest settlements in Haiti – its name dates back to the Amerindians who called it home before the arrival of Spanish colonists in the 16th century.

Village Taino is a set of beachside bungalows that opens up on the powdery sands of Haiti’s southern peninsula. If you like your beach escapes to be secluded and exclusive, you will enjoy the privacy of the bungalows, as well as the daily catered seafood, caught and cooked on location.

Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Photo: Bowerbill, Wikimedia Commons

03. Royal Decameron, Montrouis

Looking for world-class beachside relaxation? Royal Decameron, smack in the middle of the Arcadins coast, is your go-to for an all-inclusive experience in Haiti. With spacious rooms, swimming pools, authentic Haitian food, and recurring activities to keep you entertained throughout the days and evenings, it really is the easiest place to go for a weekend of unscripted relaxation and fun!

beach with people swimming and small wooden boat
People swiming at Amani-y Beach in Saint-Marc
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Amani-y Beach, Saint-Marc

Looking for something outside the popular beach resorts of the Arcadins coast? Amani-y Beach may be the treasure you seek. Located close by La Colline Hotel, it is one of Saint-Marc’s most picturesque beaches. Surrounded by the tree-clad hills that border Baie de Sant-Marc, clear blue waters stretch out for miles. Amani-y Beach offers all of the island flair with none of the touristic fuss.

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti
Cap Haitien Labadi
Photo: Verdy Verna

05. Cap-Haïtien

Accessible via car, if you’re into sightseeing; tap-tap, if you’re here for adventure; or plane if you can’t wait to get there, Cap-Haïtien is one of those cities you need a couple of days set aside to explore.

The beach of Cormier is one of the most underappreciated on the island – and only about twenty minutes away from the main city by car. The food options on the main boulevard, which you can walk to from most hotels, are mouthwatering and many – Lakay? Boukanye? Cap Deli? Barik? Lolo? Come hungry!

Deck chair under a thatch umbrella at Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

06. Abaka Bay Resort, Île-à-Vache

Île-à-Vache is a magical place. Ever wondered what it would be like to live on a small island, just enjoying the pleasures of the sea lapping at your feet under a palm tree? Abaka Bay Resort is the place for you. Between horseback riding, kayaking, and peaceful walks on the shore in the evening, you might even find time to finish your book. This is an enchanting destination for travellers seeking quality rest and relaxation.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2019


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Jacmel City Guide

Ocean boardwalk in Jacmel
Boardwalk at Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

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Urban Guides: Jacmel

Whether you’re looking for adventure, nature, fast festival rhythms, rejuvenation on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel will slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

old colonial houses in coastal city
City center of Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Switch off in the City of Light

Once dubbed the “City of Light,” the seaside city of Jacmel was the first place in the Caribbean to get electricity back in the nineteenth century. These days, there’s something else unusual about Jacmel’s power use – it’s limited, meaning if you Airbnb here, you better be prepared with backup batteries for the daily ritual of switching off from the grid.

For many Americans power outages are rare, unpredictable, inconvenient and even spooky. They’re when you realise you forgot to put fresh batteries in your flashlights, and/or leave your flashlights where you can find them in the dark. For the residents of Jacmel, though, it’s part of the daily rhythm, and it doesn’t seem to phase the travellers who love coming back to Jacmel every year. Jacmel is famous for festivals, and in-between it’s a magical destination, well-equipped to help you switch-off and hit reset.

Stairs with a mosaic of words in Jacmel, Haiti
Stairs with mosaik art in Jacmel
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Art & Culture

Known as the culture capital of Haiti, Jacmel is a hub for art, folklore, foodies, festivals and nightlife. Colorful paper-mache creations, often seen during Jacmel’s annual carnival, can be found and bought all year round. Many of the masks and paintings are reflective of Haiti’s deeply unique religion – the potent symbology of Haitian Vodou infuses the city streets.

Jacmel is a compact city, and easy to explore on foot. For a closer look, you can ask local guides Experience Jacmel to take you to visit a Vodou “peristyle” or help you make your own carnival mask.

A tourist stands on a stone bridge across rapids at Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Are you more of an outdoorsy-type? Jacmel offers excellent proximity to many of Haiti’s most exciting al-fresco adventures. Reconnect with nature at La Vallée, Bassin BleuMarigot or Fort Ogè in Cap Rouge – all within a short drive or a sturdy hike.

The tropical sun will test your mettle, but for the brave and well-prepared there are caves waiting to be discovered, waterfalls waiting to be jumped off of and swam under, steep and shady jungle paths for you to leave footprints on, and crisp mountain air to reset your cortisol levels. You’ll find adventure itineraries suited to your level from novice hiker to hardened overland survivor.

people swimming by beach with trees
La Saline Beach in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Crazy-good beaches

If you’d rather hit the snooze button than the gym, no sweat! Beach bums can relax at one of Jacmel’s several stunning strips of paradisian sand, including Cyvadier, Raymond les Bains, L’Amitie and Kabic.  Soak up the sun, catch some waves, sip on a coconut (would you like that with rum?), and lick your fingers after a plate of freshly caught and barbecued seafood.

Whether you’re hoping to realign your chakras or just happy to find inner peace in a succession of ice-cold rum cocktails, you’ll find bliss on the beaches of Jacmel.

The colorful exterior of Cafe Koze in Jacmel, Haiti
Cafe Koze in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The food culture in Jacmel is thriving, and published guides struggle to keep up with the pace of new hotels, bars and restaurants springing up all of the place.

Take to the mosaic boardwalk as you trace the coastline, by day a popular place for active types out jogging, and by night full of eclectically-clothed hipster students. Venture just a couple of streets inland from the boardwalk and you’ll find a mix of traditional and boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries, with a few souvenir shops thrown into the mix.

Where to eat

If you’ve just arrived, settle in at the chilled-out Cafe Koze, where you can people-watch over their mouth-watering homemade rum-and-raisin ice-cream.

Hotel Florita, once the mansion of a coffee magnate, will appeal to fans of Graham Greene. Here you can sit in the sultry semi-open courtyard (the UNESCO-listed hotel has no air conditioners), and sip a traditional Haitian filter coffee – exceedingly sweet and rich, and every bit as addictive as Vietnamese coffee. The restaurant serves excellent Haitian food palatable for cautious Americans and Europeans, but be warned: waiting times can exceed an hour. You won’t mind though, because they also make delectable rum sours, and the first is on the house!

If what you’re after is exotic food and exquisite beachfront views, head to Hotel Cyvadier Plage. Their shrimp and chicken dishes are crowd pleasers, but their specialty is in brightly constructed plates based on seasonal catch. In fact, if you’re breakfasting in the courtyard (and know a little French), you’re so close to the lapping shore that you can chat with fisherman as they tie up their boats to deliver the catch of the day.

Where to drink

Start with La Taverne or Belle Epoque Barak. La Taverne is where you’ll find more rum sours, and occasionally salsa performances. Belle Epoque is where expats go to stay up late listening to hip hop and house. They also do pretty good wings – not a bad way to line your stomach before a long rum-fuelled night of dancing.

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dance to your own beat

Jacmel is one of the friendliest and most tranquil cities in Haiti, but if you want to pack the most into a short break here, the best way to plug yourself into the pulse that feeds the city is to book in advance to stay during one of the festival weekends. Renowned DJs and artists will bring together hundreds, sometimes thousands of people, from all walks of life, to sing, dance, and celebrate. Whether your flavour of choice is rara or bachata, compa or salsa, house or tango, ask around on a holiday weekend, and you will find your party.

There’s too many festivals to list them all here, but briefly: Independence Day and New Years Day share January 1, and Carnival (think an Afro-Caribbean Mardi Gras) is held in the lead up to Shrove Tuesday. There’s also festivals that celebrate storytelling, rum, and the identity-affirming Rara.

Who should go?

Jacmel holds something for everyone.  Whether you are looking for new adventure, to reconnect nature, to let your hair down surrounded by the pounding festival rhythms, or to rejuvenate on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel has something to slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

One last thing before you head back up over the mountains: buy yourself a t-shirt that reads “Jacmel Mwen Fou Pou Ou” (Kreyol for “Jacmel, I’m Crazy For You”) and become part of the unofficial Jacmel fan club. Welcome to the gang.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018.