short breaks

Cap-Haïtien City Guide

December 13, 2019 by admin

church cathedral in cap-haitien, haiti — The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

City Guide: Cap-Haïtien

As Cap-Haïtien’s 350th anniversary draws near, take a swooping dive down into the heart of the city, and learn how it earned its well-deserved title as Haiti’s second city.

The Paris of the Antilles

Cap-Haïtien is Haiti’s second largest city, popular with travellers because of its proximity to world-class beaches and UNESCO heritage sites.

A key city during the Caribbean colonial period, Cap‑Français (as it was then named) earned the nicknamed the Paris of the Antilles for its sophisticated architecture and artistic culture. It was the capital city of the French colony of Saint Domingue from 1711 until the Haitian Revolution, when it became the capital of the Kingdom of Northern Haiti under King Henri Christophe. Christophe renamed the city from Cap‑Français to Cap-Henri. When Christophe died in 1820, the whole island of Hispaniola was briefly unified, and it was in the early phases of this (re)unification that Cap-Haïtien was given the name it has today. Mostly, though, you’ll hear this beautiful city called simply “Le Cap”.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings — Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

What to see and do in Cap-Haïtien

The Cathedral
The early 20th century Notre Dame Cathedral (also known as the Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, Cap-Haïtien Cathedral and (French) Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l’Assomption.

Héros de Vertières
Héros de Vertières (Heroes Monument of Vertières) is an open-air sculpture park dedicated to the heroes of the 1803 Battle of Vertieres.

The Battle of Vertières was the last major battle of the Second War of Haitian Independence, and the final battle of the Haitian Revolution led by Jean Jacques Dessalines. It was fought on November 18, just south of what is now Cap-Haïtien.

An inspiring site that celebrates a remarkable moment in history, a visit to the Heroes de Vertieres is especially empowering for travelers from the Haitian diaspora. The monument is on the western outskirts of the city, within a five-minute drive of both Hôtel Impérial and one of our favorite places to eat in Cap-Haïtien, Lakay.

The Bottle Gate(s) (French: “Barrière Bouteille” / “Barrières Bouteilles”)
These iconic bottle-shaped structures mark the historic entrance to the city.

The Iron Market (French: Marche au Fer)
Named after the iconic Port-au-Prince Iron Market, this lively market is housed inside a Victorian-era cast iron pavilion. First built in 1890 under Haitian engineer Alexandre Bobo, Cap-Haïtien’s Iron Market has attracted tourists since the 1960s thanks to its impressive period architecture and the huge range of handicrafts sold here – especially colorful ritual objects associated with vodou practice. Today, the Iron Market is a chaotic sprawl of craftspeople and food vendors hawking their produce.

Dance to live music
Let your hair down like a local with these Cap-Haïtien musice scene stalwarts: Septentrional and Tropicana d’Haiti. Catch them at a venue called Versailles (named after the French royal palace).

yellow restaurant building in cap-haitien — Lakay, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to eat

Lakay: Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent (and huge!) traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Boukanye: our favorite place to drink coffee in Cap-Haïtien, this pirate-themed hangout is a great bar by night but a cozy café by day.

Cap Deli: serving up some of the freshest food in the city, Cap Deli is the place to go in Cap-Haïtien for American-style burgers and pizza.

Lolo: a new Italian-Haitian restaurant, Lolo serves exquisite fresh pasta and fine wine.

Must-try local specialities: Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Woman throwing a towel down to relax on the beach on Amiga Island, Ile-a-rat — Amiga Island, (Ile-a-Rat) close to Cap Haitien
Photo: Anton Lau

Best beaches

The best beaches nearby are Cormier, Labadee and Île-à-Rat Island (Amiga Island).

The beach at Cormier is one of the most under-appreciated on the island – and only a twenty minute drive from downtown Cap-Haïtien.

Labadee Beach is one of the crowning jewels of Haiti, with fine sands and crystal-clear blue water that attracts cruise ships from around the world.

Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island) is a tiny island off the beaches west of Cap-Haïtien. This little paradise is a microcosm of what makes Haiti one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean, with fine white sand beaches, shady palm trees, warm turquoise waters, incredible fresh seafood – and fewer crowds. The swimming is superb, and snorkelers can find half-buried colonial artillery and anchors.

For USD $40 a boat taxi from Labadee will take you to Île-à-Rat, and for an extra USD $15 they’ll cook you up a fresh lunch of lobster, octopus, crab or fish, all caught locally. Make sure you take some ice-cold bottles of rum and Prestige with you for the trip!

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti — Boat taxis going to Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island)
Photo: Verdy Verna

Where to sleep

All-inclusive resorts:
Cormier Beach Resort

Ocean view hotels:
Top hotels include Hôtel Impérial, Hotel Satama, Habitation Jouissant, Habitation des Lauriers and Mont Joli

Hidden Gem:
Kay Lolo Plage

Only accessible by boat, Kay Lolo Plage is a boutique B&B secluded in a private cove and surrounded by tropical forest. The separate bungalows and villa are in great condition and offer travellers a private beach with gorgeous views, birdsong and very exclusive vibes. There’s no wifi or running water here, but you’ll find kayaks, paddleboards and a breakfast cooked just for you.

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière and mountain range, Haiti — Citadelle Laferrière, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Awesome day-trips

South of Cap-Haïtien, Citadelle Laferriere is a hilltop fortress built by revolutionary leader Henri Christophe.

Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferriere. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

The city of Dondon is located about two hours south of Cap-Haïtien and has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno people lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

Getting there

American Airlines fly direct from Miami to Cap-Haitian, with fares starting at US $127 and a flight time of less than two hours.

From Port-au-Prince, Haiti’s capital city, Sunrise Airways will take you to CAP in 45 minutes for less than US $100, but it’s more fun, and you’ll see more of Haiti, if you jump on a cross-country bus or rent a car. On wheels, the journey from PAP to CAP will take four hours or more, depending on your route. Will you drive inland via Lake Peligre and Bassin Zim, or along the Caribbean coastline via Montrouis and Gonaïves?

Coming from the Dominican Republic? Caribe Tours, the most popular bus company in Dominican Republic, runs daily from Santiago to Cap-Haïtien. The journey takes roughly five hours: two and a half hours from Santiago to Dajabon, on the Dominican border, then another hour from Haitian border town Ouathamije to Cap-Haïtien. Return tickets cost US $25 per person, plus an extra US $25 border-crossing fee.

For more information, see our guides to getting to Haiti and transport within Haiti.

Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published December 2019

Top things to see in Haiti

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

January 25, 2019 by admin

A green yacht in aqua waters just off the beach at Port Salut, Haiti — Beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

Looking for a quick getaway or an island escape?

We’ve rounded up a list of the best destinations for you to kick your feet up, relax, and enjoy the best Haiti’s coasts have to offer!

All of the destinations listed here can be reached by car – it’s easy to hire one in Port-au-Prince, but book ahead if you can. For an adventurous traveller fluent in French or Kreol, a journey via tap-tap to either Jacmel or Cap-Haïtien is an experience you won’t find anywhere else in the world, but for first-time visitors, we recommend hiring a car or driver.

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise hotel and restaurant in Jacmel, Haiti — Alliance Francaise in Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

01. Jacmel

For international travellers, Jacmel is famous mostly for its annual carnival. Located in the south, with a vibrant festival and music scene steeped in history, and plenty of bars to choose from, Jacmel might be considered Haiti’s New Orleans.

From beautiful beaches to fantastic festivals and an endless array of artistic expression, this city is the cultural capital of Haiti. Just a two-hour drive southwest of Port-au-Prince, Jacmel is also one of the most accessible destinations.

Around 15km east of Jacmel you’ll find the fishing village of Cayes-Jacmel, where most of the rocking chairs you’ll see around Haiti are made. A few more kilometers east and you’ll come to Plage Ti Mouillage, a stunning white-sand beach framed by coconut palms, with a bar stocked with ice-cold drinks and fresh seafood.

Further east, you’ll find gorgeous Marigot. A coffee-growing town, Marigot has rated several times in Haiti’s top-ten communes. For a very reasonable price, you can wake up in an excellent boutique hotel with ocean views, the sounds of roosters crowing, and the smell of home-grown coffee roasting.

Lounge chairs beneath trees at Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve, Haiti — Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve
Photo: Anton Lau

02. Village Taino, Grand-Goâve

Two hours west of Port-au-Prince is a small oasis, nestled among the tall trees of Grand-Goâve. Grand-Goâve is one of the oldest settlements in Haiti – its name dates back to the Amerindians who called it home before the arrival of Spanish colonists in the 16th century.

Village Taino is a set of beachside bungalows that opens up on the powdery sands of Haiti’s southern peninsula. If you like your beach escapes to be secluded and exclusive, you will enjoy the privacy of the bungalows, as well as the daily catered seafood, caught and cooked on location.

Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Photo: Bowerbill, Wikimedia Commons

03. Royal Decameron, Montrouis

Looking for world-class beachside relaxation? Royal Decameron, smack in the middle of the Arcadins coast, is your go-to for an all-inclusive experience in Haiti. With spacious rooms, swimming pools, authentic Haitian food, and recurring activities to keep you entertained throughout the days and evenings, it really is the easiest place to go for a weekend of unscripted relaxation and fun!

beach with people swimming and small wooden boat — People swiming at Amani-y Beach in Saint-Marc
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Amani-y Beach, Saint-Marc

Looking for something outside the popular beach resorts of the Arcadins coast? Amani-y Beach may be the treasure you seek. Located close by La Colline Hotel, it is one of Saint-Marc’s most picturesque beaches. Surrounded by the tree-clad hills that border Baie de Sant-Marc, clear blue waters stretch out for miles. Amani-y Beach offers all of the island flair with none of the touristic fuss.

05. Cap-Haïtien

Accessible via car, if you’re into sightseeing; tap-tap, if you’re here for adventure; or plane if you can’t wait to get there, Cap-Haïtien is one of those cities you need a couple of days set aside to explore.

The beach of Cormier is one of the most underappreciated on the island – and only about twenty minutes away from the main city by car. The food options on the main boulevard, which you can walk to from most hotels, are mouthwatering and many – Lakay? Boukanye? Cap Deli? Barik? Lolo? Come hungry!

Deck chair under a thatch umbrella at Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti — Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

06. Abaka Bay Resort, Île-à-Vache

Île-à-Vache is a magical place. Ever wondered what it would be like to live on a small island, just enjoying the pleasures of the sea lapping at your feet under a palm tree? Abaka Bay Resort is the place for you. Between horseback riding, kayaking, and peaceful walks on the shore in the evening, you might even find time to finish your book. This is an enchanting destination for travellers seeking quality rest and relaxation.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2019

Top things to see in Haiti

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival

August 28, 2018 by Editor

Dancing at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Franck Fontain

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval

A weekend at Jacmel’s annual Carnaval is the ultimate way to saturate your senses in the essence of Haitian culture. Here’s how to join the party.

An Afro-Caribbean cousin of Mardi-Gras, Carnaval is much more than a party. It’s a season spirit that sweeps over the nation every year, creating an outlet for creativity, revelry and the uninhibited celebration of all things Haitian: brave colors; bold flavours; incredibly good, cheap, rum; intoxication music and dancing; an undercurrent of mysterious folklore and mischievous gods; the visibility of a colonial past and a fiercely independent spirit.

If you’ve only got a short break to spend in Haiti, the last thing you want to do on arrival is spend more of your precious time journeying cross country or taxiing around the city looking for action. So why not plan ahead and make your long weekend a non-stop party, instead?

Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting here

Flights depart most major US airports for Port-au-Prince daily, with prices starting from $200-$300 US depending on your point of departure. Once in Port-au-Prince, you can get to Jacmel via private taxi, Moto or public transport in minivans known as Tap-taps. The trip takes about 3 hours: luckily, it’s the best quality-road in the country and offers some of the prettiest roadside scenery.

A tap-tap will only set you back about US$10, but it’s not for the faint-hearted: expect it to be cramped and stuffy, and embrace the chance to get out of your comfort zone. For best results, get in early and head for the back row which offers fresh air and good access to the view of passing countryside.

Once you arrive in Jacmel, prepare to be swamped by moto drivers who will enthusiastically vie for the chance to drive you to your accommodation. If you’re travelling light, you can walk: Jacmel is compact and everything’s within walking distance. If you feel like starting your trip with a shot of adrenaline, you can jump on a moto, but not before you read this guide.

Where to stay

If you book in advance, you can find accommodation at a spectrum of hotels, from historic lofty-ceilinged mansions of Victorian coffee barons like Hotel Florita to ocean view Airbnb villas with their own pool overlooking Jacmel bay like the Chic Chateau to family-owned hotels with private beach like Cyvadier Plage and maybe even a couchsurfing couch.

Whatever you choose, your local host will probably share with you their favourite way to enjoy Carnaval weekend.

Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to party

First up, this is a three-day party. Slow and steady wins the race, so don’t get too swept away by the strange tides you can feel overtaking the city. The joy of Carnaval is in the air, but it’s ok to enjoy the atmosphere from afar while you settle into your room and crack open the first drink of the weekend.

If you make the rookie mistake of partying too hard on Friday night, you’ll be hitting the snooze button while everyone else is hitting the beach. On the Saturday morning of Carnaval weekend, the best thing to do is to pack a bag and head to the beach where it’s time to socialize, surf, and sip coconut water and rum.

As the moon rises over the gorgeous 3km-wide expanse of Jacmel bay, it’s time to choose your party. Head to the Vatican for house-crowd-pulling DJs. Get amongst something live and local at Congo Beach Club or Suave, where they usually feature live concerts with a variety of artists. Kreyol La, Carimi, T-Vice and RAM are more good choices. Stay up as late as you like, but remember that Sunday is the big finale.

This brings us to the final stretch of the weekend: Sunday, and the main event. “Kanaval” proper is a parade the floods the streets with song and rhythm and color. The creativity and intricacy of the masks is constantly astonishing: alongside the primary colors, voluminous dresses and cornucopia-turban-hats you expect, you’ll see a much more modern palette of costumes, body painting and masks that veer into the dark, bizarre and surreal, rivalling the novelty and extravagance of Burning Man.

All this is set to a ceaseless backdrop of Caribbean rhythm and voices lifted in song, often creole. The bands have an impressive level of energy and stamina, and the “cha” will teach you that music can be played louder than you thought was possible. For the next twelve hours, the main streets will be packed with movement as the crowd parties throughout the night and into the early hours of Monday.

Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval
Franck Fontain

Carnaval stands

It’s recommended to fork out $10-$30 for a ticket to a stand. You can leave your belongings up there and disappear into the crowd, ride the wave of the parade participants, and then return for a rest when you need to.

Travellers who are in Haiti on a budget might be tempted to forgo a seat in one of the Carnaval stands that looks out over the parade, but their hopes of getting closer to the action and a more authentic (and cheaper) experience will soon be dashed against the rocks of inconvenience and exhaustion. It’s much better to have a spot on a stand and not use it than to need a spot on a stand and not have it.

If you sprinted into the weekend on Friday night with a big hoorah then the parades, rara bands and cha’s on Sunday will more than likely exceed your tolerance for stimulus. But if you start your weekend off right, you’ll be able to keep up with the rum cocktails, the rara and cha.

Carnaval is vibrant mayhem, organized chaos, unfathomably loud, fascinatingly beautiful, and will surprise you year after year. Because, let’s be honest, once you’ve experienced it…you’ll be back.

Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018

Explore more festivals and events

Kokoye Beach

July 20, 2018 by admin

Kokoye Beach

Looking for a weekend destination not far from Port-au-Prince? You’ll find the low-key glamping experience at Kokoye Beach that is an altogether different sort of luxury. Set into the unrivaled beauty of Haiti’s south coast, the pristine cove of Kokoye is just an hour’s boat ride from Petit-Goave.

Leave your troubles and your backpack in the tent provided, enjoy seafood served up by a local host, and spend your days swimming, snorkeling and drinking rum punch in a cove worthy of a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean.

“Glamping” (glamorous camping) is a popular alternative to both low-convenience regular camping and high-priced but underwhelming hotels, but what really sets glamping apart from either is the access it affords to wilderness, and is the uniqueness of the experience.

Kokoye Beach is one of the few beach excursions in Haiti that is set up for tourists, with all-inclusive boat trips departing daily. It’s a way to experience the white sand and lagoon-blue wonders of Haiti in comfort and on a budget. The quality of services in Kokoye won’t disappoint. This is Glamping with a capital G.

Raw nature

Rocky outcrops stretch out on either side of the beach, bookending a pristine inlet. In the middle, an expanse of sparkling water stays tranquil and wave-free 90% of the time. It’s ideal for paddle boarding, snorkeling, kayaking and swimming. The water and white sand are pristine – the beach is maintained by local associations to keep tourists coming back for more.

Palm trees line white sand beaches that stretch into aqua water that is so unbelievably blue you’ll be tagging your Insta stories with #nofilter. The water is waist-deep until 200 meters out, perfect for bobbing the day away with an icy-cold rum punch in hand.

Come sunset, you can wind down lounging around bonfires, listening to local troubadours playing konpa classics on worn drums, and celebrate into the night.

With no electricity nearby, stargazers will be delighted by some of the Caribbean’s starriest skies. On a related note – pack head-torches or flashlights and extra battery packs for any phones and cameras you plan on using. The west of the beach offers access to modern toilets and showers where you can rinse off the sea water at the end of the day.

This is Haiti as it was made to be experienced. A hotel room is a hotel room but when you stay in a tent on the sand, and nap on a hammock strung between two coconut palms, it’s a unique way to feel immersed in the natural beauty this part of the world has to offer. Watching the sun rise over the water with no walls between you, and the sea at your fingertips, can be a life-changing experience.

Beach-side feasts

When you get hungry, you’ll be glad you’re not quite roughing it: a safety net of experienced staff will provide fresh seafood grilled over sizzling embers, and hot coffee in the morning. They’re professional and unobtrusive. Security is provided but never needed.

If sea-to-table and farm-to-fork meals are the new height of luxury, then you’ll be living it up at Kokoye Beach. Haitian coffee, cane sugar and cassava bread with peanut butter and fruit are standard breakfast fare. All ingredients are fresh and as far as possible locally-caught or grown.

If you’ve been initiated into the Haitian traditional of spaghetti for breakfast then you’ll be in for a treat. For lunch and dinner you can order grilled lambi (conch), fish or lobster. The seafood is always catch of the day. Dishes are seasoned with a Haitian mixture of garlic, hot peppers, lime and spices that will have you coming back for more.

Feeling more adventurous?

You can explore sea caves on the north end of the beach, a 15 to 20 minute swim away. Looking for something inland? Hike around the southeast end of the beach to discover the ruins of a swimming pool and a crumbling mansion from a bygone era.

Getting there

Kokoye Beach is located on a remote peninsula south of Petit-Goave, and it is only accessible by boat, or extreme hiking for 2-3 hours. There is no car access, which makes it feel more like an island escape. Visitors can call ahead to reserve tents, sleeping bags, and other comforts with a local host. People like Madam Fanfan (509) 4028 – 31 66 will also be able to help arrange your boat travel.

It’s also possible to arrange for an impromptu water taxi from the pier in Petit Goave. The boat ride time will vary depending on the motor and number of people aboard and visitors can expect to pay more for covered boats. While on the boat ride you’ll see local fisherman in their element, and freediving is a regular sight, as are sailboats sluicing by at slower speeds. The water changes from indigo blue to turquoise to aqua as you skim along the shore toward Kokoye.

Just over halfway there, Bananier Beach – a popular destination in its own right – is usually the first stop. Kokoye Beach is 20 minutes further down the coast.

Tips for making the most of your trip

One way to prepare for the excursion to Kokoye Beach (and make your hosts happy) is by bringing lots of Haitian gourdes in small bills. While 50 gourdes may not go far in Port-au-Prince, the provinces will appreciate the change. On such a remote peninsula, making change is a regular problem so you’ll be doing a service to the local economy by bringing in plenty of 10, 25, 50, and 100 gourde notes. In a pinch, US dollars are accepted in lieu of gourdes.

Whether you’re into a salty, rough-and-ready DIY adventure or plan to take full advantage of the excellent food and facilities services provided by dedicated staff, an excursion to remote Kokoye beach is a great way to relax and reconnect.

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published July 2018

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Jacmel City Guide

July 4, 2018 by Editor

Ocean boardwalk in Jacmel — Boardwalk at Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Whether you’re looking for adventure, nature, fast festival rhythms, rejuvenation on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel will slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

old colonial houses in coastal city — City center of Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Switch off in the City of Light

Once dubbed the “City of Light,” the seaside city of Jacmel was the first place in the Caribbean to get electricity back in the nineteenth century. These days, there’s something else unusual about Jacmel’s power use – it’s limited, meaning if you Airbnb here, you better be prepared with backup batteries for the daily ritual of switching off from the grid.

For many Americans power outages are rare, unpredictable, inconvenient and even spooky. They’re when you realise you forgot to put fresh batteries in your flashlights, and/or leave your flashlights where you can find them in the dark. For the residents of Jacmel, though, it’s part of the daily rhythm, and it doesn’t seem to phase the travellers who love coming back to Jacmel every year. Jacmel is famous for festivals, and in-between it’s a magical destination, well-equipped to help you switch-off and hit reset.

Stairs with a mosaic of words in Jacmel, Haiti — Stairs with mosaik art in Jacmel
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Art & Culture

Known as the culture capital of Haiti, Jacmel is a hub for art, folklore, foodies, festivals and nightlife. Colorful paper-mache creations, often seen during Jacmel’s annual carnival, can be found and bought all year round. Many of the masks and paintings are reflective of Haiti’s deeply unique religion – the potent symbology of Haitian Vodou infuses the city streets.

Jacmel is a compact city, and easy to explore on foot. For a closer look, you can ask local guides Experience Jacmel to take you to visit a Vodou “peristyle” or help you make your own carnival mask.

A tourist stands on a stone bridge across rapids at Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti — Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Are you more of an outdoorsy-type? Jacmel offers excellent proximity to many of Haiti’s most exciting al-fresco adventures. Reconnect with nature at La Vallée, Bassin Bleu, Marigot or Fort Ogè in Cap Rouge – all within a short drive or a sturdy hike.

The tropical sun will test your mettle, but for the brave and well-prepared there are caves waiting to be discovered, waterfalls waiting to be jumped off of and swam under, steep and shady jungle paths for you to leave footprints on, and crisp mountain air to reset your cortisol levels. You’ll find adventure itineraries suited to your level from novice hiker to hardened overland survivor.

people swimming by beach with trees — La Saline Beach in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Crazy-good beaches

If you’d rather hit the snooze button than the gym, no sweat! Beach bums can relax at one of Jacmel’s several stunning strips of paradisian sand, including Cyvadier, Raymond les Bains, L’Amitie and Kabic. Soak up the sun, catch some waves, sip on a coconut (would you like that with rum?), and lick your fingers after a plate of freshly caught and barbecued seafood.

Whether you’re hoping to realign your chakras or just happy to find inner peace in a succession of ice-cold rum cocktails, you’ll find bliss on the beaches of Jacmel.

The colorful exterior of Cafe Koze in Jacmel, Haiti — Cafe Koze in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The food culture in Jacmel is thriving, and published guides struggle to keep up with the pace of new hotels, bars and restaurants springing up all of the place.

Take to the mosaic boardwalk as you trace the coastline, by day a popular place for active types out jogging, and by night full of eclectically-clothed hipster students. Venture just a couple of streets inland from the boardwalk and you’ll find a mix of traditional and boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries, with a few souvenir shops thrown into the mix.

Where to eat

If you’ve just arrived, settle in at the chilled-out Cafe Koze, where you can people-watch over their mouth-watering homemade rum-and-raisin ice-cream.

Hotel Florita, once the mansion of a coffee magnate, will appeal to fans of Graham Greene. Here you can sit in the sultry semi-open courtyard (the UNESCO-listed hotel has no air conditioners), and sip a traditional Haitian filter coffee – exceedingly sweet and rich, and every bit as addictive as Vietnamese coffee. The restaurant serves excellent Haitian food palatable for cautious Americans and Europeans, but be warned: waiting times can exceed an hour. You won’t mind though, because they also make delectable rum sours, and the first is on the house!

If what you’re after is exotic food and exquisite beachfront views, head to Hotel Cyvadier Plage. Their shrimp and chicken dishes are crowd pleasers, but their specialty is in brightly constructed plates based on seasonal catch. In fact, if you’re breakfasting in the courtyard (and know a little French), you’re so close to the lapping shore that you can chat with fisherman as they tie up their boats to deliver the catch of the day.

Where to drink

Start with La Taverne or Belle Epoque Barak. La Taverne is where you’ll find more rum sours, and occasionally salsa performances. Belle Epoque is where expats go to stay up late listening to hip hop and house. They also do pretty good wings – not a bad way to line your stomach before a long rum-fuelled night of dancing.

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti — Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dance to your own beat

Jacmel is one of the friendliest and most tranquil cities in Haiti, but if you want to pack the most into a short break here, the best way to plug yourself into the pulse that feeds the city is to book in advance to stay during one of the festival weekends. Renowned DJs and artists will bring together hundreds, sometimes thousands of people, from all walks of life, to sing, dance, and celebrate. Whether your flavour of choice is rara or bachata, compa or salsa, house or tango, ask around on a holiday weekend, and you will find your party.

There’s too many festivals to list them all here, but briefly: Independence Day and New Years Day share January 1, and Carnival (think an Afro-Caribbean Mardi Gras) is held in the lead up to Shrove Tuesday. There’s also festivals that celebrate storytelling, rum, and the identity-affirming Rara.

Who should go?

Jacmel holds something for everyone. Whether you are looking for new adventure, to reconnect nature, to let your hair down surrounded by the pounding festival rhythms, or to rejuvenate on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel has something to slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

One last thing before you head back up over the mountains: buy yourself a t-shirt that reads “Jacmel Mwen Fou Pou Ou” (Kreyol for “Jacmel, I’m Crazy For You”) and become part of the unofficial Jacmel fan club. Welcome to the gang.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018.

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short breaks

City Guide: Cap-Haïtien

As Cap-Haïtien’s 350th anniversary draws near, take a swooping dive down into the heart of the city, and learn how it earned its well-deserved title as Haiti’s second city.

The Paris of the Antilles

What to see and do in Cap-Haïtien

Where to eat

Best beaches

Where to sleep

Awesome day-trips

Getting there

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Top things to see in Haiti

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The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

Looking for a quick getaway or an island escape?

01. Jacmel

02. Village Taino, Grand-Goâve

03. Royal Decameron, Montrouis

04. Amani-y Beach, Saint-Marc

05. Cap-Haïtien

06. Abaka Bay Resort, Île-à-Vache

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Top things to see in Haiti

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Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval

A weekend at Jacmel’s annual Carnaval is the ultimate way to saturate your senses in the essence of Haitian culture. Here’s how to join the party.

Getting here

Where to stay

How to party

Carnaval stands

Citadelle Henri

Explore more festivals and events

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Kokoye Beach

Raw nature

Beach-side feasts

Feeling more adventurous?

Getting there

Tips for making the most of your trip

Find Kokoye Beach

External Links

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

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CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Switch off in the City of Light

Art & Culture

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Crazy-good beaches

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

Where to eat

Where to drink

Dance to your own beat

Who should go?

Top things to see in Haiti

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Plan Your Trip

Destinations

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Plan Your Trip

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