Port-au-Prince

Parc de Martissant

December 10, 2020 by Editor

lush green garden area with path — Parc de Martissant
Photo: FOKAL

Parc de Martissant

This park houses gorgeous flowers, medicinal plants and the Haitian home of the ‘matriarch of black dance’.

Created in 2007 by joining together four huge estates, the Parc de Martissant provides public oasis where people can relax, share skills and culture. Students and tutors from nearby schools are often found wandering in the park, reading or chatting together. The second central aim of the park is to preserve Haiti’s beautiful native flora.

Year round, the garden is bursting with tropical sights and smells: pink and yellow frangipani, hibiscus, red ginger (or ginger lily), spider lily, the exotic ‘lobster-claws’ flower and dozens of others we didn’t know the name of.

Stroll through lush rolling lawns, roped paths, feature trees, flower guilds and wooded groves circumscribed by stone walls, natural amphitheatres and outdoor galleries as well as three separate groups of buildings, most notably the Katherine Dunham Center.

building with futuristic designed roof in public park — Katherine Dunham Cultural Center, Port-au-Prince
Photo: FOKAL

The Katherine Dunham Center

The Center was once the residence of African-American dancer and choreographer Katherine Dunham, the ‘matriarch of black dance.’ In 1935, Dunham obtained travel fellowships to the Caribbean to further her studies on dance and vodun – or vodou – leading her straight to Haiti.

Here, she spent an extensive amount of time researching, learning, and developing her own dance method. After Dunham passed away in 2006, her property was transformed into a cultural center, and now features an iconic library, whose five buildings – built to emulate movements of dance – were designed by Mexican architects Raúl Galvan Yañez and Winifred Jean Galvan. This library is a hive of activity for students and fans with cultural activities, public readings and more each week.

garden area with rosemary and other herbs — The Medicinal Garden, Parc de Martissant
Photo: Ray Ginald / FOKAL

The medicine garden

The Centre is also where you’ll find guides willing to show you around Parc de Martissant’s extensive garden of medicinal plants. The tour is very detailed, and guides are always more than happy to answer questions, but visitors are free to walk around and observe by themselves if they prefer.

Depending on the time of year, some of the plants are blossoming or yielding fruit. The medicinal plant garden sits adjacent to a community produce garden, whose bounty is gathered whenever it is ripe and made available to the local community.

old concrete swimming pool without water in a tropical garden — Habitation Leclerc, Parc de Martissant
Photo: FOKAL

Habitation Leclerc

Elsewhere in the park’s 17 acres, you’ll find a former luxury hotel called Habitation Leclerc. In the sixties and seventies, the villas with private pools of Habitation Leclerc was a point of reference for the jet-setting elite of the world.

artwork sculpture haning from tree with pink flowers — Art installation by Pascale Monnin at Parc de Martissant
Photo: Valérie Baeriswyl

The earthquake memorial

The third major installation of Parc de Martissant is the January 12 2010 Memorial. It was built on the former residence of Haitian architect Albert Mangonès – the sculptor behind the Marron inconnu or Nèg mawon statue at Champ-de-Mars.

Erected in 2012, the memorial is a symbolic resting place for the souls of those who passed away during the 2010 earthquake. Residents of Martissant planted ylang ylang trees on the perimeter of the memorial and every afternoon the trees’ scent is released throughout the area at a similar time to that of the deadly earthquake in 2010.

The memorial also features a permanent art installation by Haitian artist Pascale Monnin. Skulls made from iron and cement covered in mirror shards hang from a giant tree, twisting and swinging in the wind. Monnin shaped and crafted these skulls based on the faces of residents of Martissant. From the early hours of morning into the late afternoon, they catch and reflect the Caribbean sunlight.

How to visit

The best time to visit the park is in the morning. The ravaging heat of Martissant will not yet be in full effect, and the park is still waking up.

The park is designed with an organic flow in mind – while there isn’t always designated seating, there are low walls or stairs where visitors often sit and hang out.

Guided tours at Parc de Martissant are paid. Children under 6 years of age enter free of change; those between 7 and 18 years old pay 25 gourdes, and people over 18 years of age pay 50 gourdes. The spaces that are currently open for touring are the January 12 2010 Memorial, the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center, and the medicinal plant garden.

If you are planning to visit the center, it is worth noting that the guided tours are in Haitian Creole – therefore, having a bilingual friend or guide to tag along is a good idea! If you visit during the summer, you will greatly benefit from making a reservation in advance, as the tour guides tend to be quite busy during that time of the year with group excursions.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2020

Top things to see in Haiti

Try Barbancourt rum

November 26, 2020 by admin

a mixed rum sour drink with ingredients — Rum sour cocktail made with Barbancourt Rum at Hotel Florita, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Try Barbancourt rum

Barbancourt is Haiti’s oldest and most-loved brand of rum – you’ll find it all over the island.

While Haitian culture might be distilled down into the Kreyol phrase pa gen pwoblem – translated as ‘have no problem’, there’s plenty of things Haitian culture does have in spades: beaches, carnivals, rara bands, public transport banter and, of course, rum!

Rum production goes back centuries in Haiti, and one of the oldest brands is also the biggest – you’ll see the “Barbancourt” brand wherever you go.

But how did this rum become such a fixture of Haitian culture?

Distilled in Haiti since 1862

Haiti’s most popular rum distillery started in 1862 when Frenchman Dupré Barbancourt set foot in Haiti. With a background of cognac production in southwestern France; the original Barbancourt moved to Haiti to capitalise on the island’s famed sugar production.

That same year, once Barbancourt had learned the basics of making rum rather than cognac, he opened and launched his business. Incorporating his knowledge about cognac-making, Barbancourt double distilled his rum, increasing the alcohol content of the final product.

In the early days, a gallon of Barbancourt rum retailed for thirty cents!

After Barbancourt passed away, his wife Nathalie Gardère took the reigns. The business has remained in the family ever since, and is now into a fifth-generation.

a bottle of haitian rum — Barbancourt Estate Reserve rum with artwork by a famed Haitian painter Félix Jean
Photo: Franck Fontain

A cultural icon

The company evolved to become the most well-known and celebrated rum in Haiti. By making appearances at all major cultural events – carnival, rara season, patron saint festivals – Barbancourt solidified its iconic presence in Haitian culture.

These days, Barbancourt prides itself on being a Haitian company, employing Haitians to make a product for Haitians. Since its founding, it has been one of the strongest supporters of the Haitian art and culture scene (look closely at the packaging of the Estate Reserve rum and you’ll find an artwork by a famed Haitian painter Félix Jean).

An article about rum in Haiti wouldn’t be complete if we neglected the importance of rum in Haitian folklore and Vodou. At most Vodou ceremonies, carnivals and patron saint festivals, rum is the party-starter, the unifier and unwinder that helps Haitians celebrate togetherness and identity.

haitian bartender in bar interior presenting a rum sour — Bartender making rum sour with Barbancourt Rum at Hotel Florita, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Which Barbancourt should you try?

The youngest of Barbancourt’s offerings is a powerfully sweet yet strong white rum. Because of its purity and strength, it is very popular in mixed drinks, but also enjoyed on its own.

There is the four year old three star rum, which is more full-bodied and mellow. A step above is the eight year old five star rum, a non-negotiable staple in any and all bars of Haiti. Here, flavor notes are more perceptible, and force a pause to fully enjoy them.

Next is the fifteen year old estate reserve rum, often reserved as a digestive because of the complexity of the aromas from the scent to the finish.

Where to try it

Stop by your local supermarket or neighborhood shop – the supermarkets tend to have both bottle sizes (750mL and 175mL), while the neighborhood shops are more likely to stock only the smaller (175mL) bottle.

Over ice, dry with a squeeze of lemon, or with a cocktail mixer, Barbancourt is a must-try Haitian experience if you want to truly say you’ve been here!

warehouse filled with wooden rum barrels — Barbancourt rum distillery, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Visit Barbancourt distillery

Just a few kilometers north of Port-au-Prince airport, the Barbancourt distillery hosts tours every Friday from November through May. The tours last about two hours and are run in French or English. Visitors will be walked through the whole process from unloading sugar canes to bottling and ageing, and enjoy a degustation of all the rums up to the 15yo.

You can buy rum from the cellar door starting from USD $17 for the 8yo and USD $45 for the 15yo. Make sure you bring USD if you can – they distillery prefers USD over HTG. Whatever you do, we recommend you reserve your place in advance.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2020

Find Barbancourt Distillery

External Links

Barbancourt Distillery on Trip Advisor

TripAdvisor

Official Barbancourt website

BARBANCOURT.COM

Explore more of Haiti’s history

Catch a show with Haitian Vodou rock band RAM

November 19, 2020 by Anton Lau

haitian lead singer in band dancing in front of microphone — RAM performing at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: RAM.com

Catch a show with Haitian Vodou rock and roots band RAM

Every Saturday night at the Oloffson, the band RAM delivers an unforgettable performance of Vodou-infused rock. Here’s what you need to know before you go.

Every Saturday night at the Hotel Oloffson, the band RAM – a Haitian national treasure – delivers an unforgettable performance of Vodou-infused rock. If you’re not a guest at the hotel or paying for a sit-down dinner, you’ll need to pay an entry fee of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars). The show starts around 10:30. Expect sing-a-longs with an enthusiastic crowd and dancing all night long.

haitian musicians playing on trumpets — RAM performers with vaksin horns
Photo: RAM.com

On the gothic gingerbread verandah of the Oloffson, you can join a decades-long tradition of watching the sun set over Port-au-Prince with a rum sour or rum punch. On Saturday nights, there’s another ritual going on.

Weekly performances by RAM have become a ceremony loved by all levels of society. Remarkably, in a country where consistency is hard to find, the band has consistently gigged at the Oloffson since 1990, when the band’s frontman took over running the hotel. In fact, the band gets its name from the initials of the Oloffson’s owner, Richard Auguste Morse. Morse’s wife, Lunise, is the lead singer and main dancer.

A “Vodou rock and roots” band, RAM incorporates traditional Vodou lyrics and instruments, such as rara horns and Petwo drums, into modern rock-and-roll grooves. Their lyrics are sung in a macaronic medley of Haitian creole, French and English that islanders and diaspora can appreciate especially. To hear it is to connect with a distinctive sound that could only have been born in Haiti.

haitian band performing in front of crowd — RAM performing at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: RAM.com

RAM live: an unmissable experience

First off, expect to see anyone and everyone here. The shows are and have always been attended not just by often-international hotel guests but a diverse spectrum of the country’s political and ethnic groups and subcultures. Humanitarian workers line the front row next to cross-dressed dancers and Haitian artists from nearby downtown neighborhoods. Corner tables are occupied by foreign ambassadors and visiting celebrities, or Grammy award-winning musicians with a love for Haiti.

The lights are few and far between, and often shine out blue and red. Near the permanent stage erected in the heart of the Oloffson mansion, genuine vodouwizan practitioners can be spotted in the throng of dancers. Some of the people in the crowd have been regulars here for 20 years. One woman in a white traditional frock and elaborate satin turban loves to spray sacred flower-scented florida water on the crowd. Many know the lyrics by heart, no matter what decade the song is from. Several people appear to have entered their own worlds, dancing with unearthly vigour, evoking the scenes of ritual possession one might see at a Vodou ceremony or at the Haitian Day of the Dead.

haitian musicians in red and blue dresses performing — RAM performing
Photo: RAM.com

The early days of RAM

The band started in 1990 when Morse negotiated the lease for the Hotel – then very dilapidated. He created a folklore dance troupe along with his wife and a group of musicians – many from the poorer districts of nearby downtown neighborhoods.

RAM prides itself on having deep roots but always adapting to the times. Many of the lyrics have subtle or not-so-subtle political messages. In the new release “Ayiti Leve”, the lyrics (in Kreyòl) say: “Haiti you sleep too much. It’s time to wash your eyes.” The music video shows the corridors of the Oloffson clouded in darkness. The lead singer’s son, William – also bass guitarist for the band – sits on a traditional high-backed wooden chair in the dark. His mother Lunise walks through the french doors and hands him a candle, illuminating his face and the iconic porch behind him.

The Vodou-inspired drumming is classic RAM but this time the visual is unexpected. “Wake up. See where you are,” the lyrics continue. One by one, Lunise places a candle in each of the band members’ hands. It’s the same shadow play that makes visitors of the Oloffson aware they are wading thickly into something unseen.

Their 2020 Carnival song, “Kongo Lazil O (Kan’w Pran Ou Konnen)” marked RAM’s 28th carnival song release, spanning an era that has seen violent revolts, revolutions, and sometimes unpopular public opinions of RAM’s frontman Morse.

During the years of Haiti’s military regime, one of RAM’s songs, “Fèy” (“Leaf” in english), was censored nationally and eventually banned from radio play by the regime, who correctly perceived it to be a song covertly supporting the exiled President Jean-Bertrand Aristide. In defiance of death threats, the band continued to play weekly concerts at the Oloffson – until Morse only narrowly escaped a kidnapping, almost being carried out by junta authorities from the hotel in the middle of a performance in 1994. In 1998, the band’s lyrics offended the newly-elected mayor of Port-au-Prince, and they survived an assasination attempt on their float during a Carnival performance. While the Thursday night performances have been switched to Saturdays in 2020, RAM continues to use their iconic stage as a launch pad for social commentary. The band is loyal to providing lyrical provocation to Haiti’s political landscape.

How to see the show

RAM plays on Saturday nights at the Hotel Oloffson, 60 Ave Christophe, Port-au-Prince, in the neighbourhood of Saint Gérard, just near trendy Pacot.

The show is free for hotel guests and dinner customers. If you’re not sleeping at the hotel or paying for a sit-down dinner, you’ll need to pay an entry fee of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars). The show starts around 10:30 and runs until late.

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published November 2020

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

QUIZ: Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?

November 13, 2020 by Anton Lau

city street with people and old colonial houses — Street life in Jérémie
Photo: Tyler Welsh

QUIZ: Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?

Are you a new visitor getting ready to explore Port-au-Prince, or an explorer ready for adventure in Dondon? Let’s test your knowledge of these 12 Haitian cities.

The cities of Haiti are as diverse as its cuisine. Whether you are only familiar with Port-au-Prince and Jacmel, or you have already made friends in Milot, this quiz is a good exercise to see how well you know the Haitian landscape. Can you tell us where on the map these 12 cities are located?

Start taking the quiz on the map below!

<section> <h2></h2> <h2>Can you place 12 Haitian cities on the map?</h2> </section> <section> <h2></h2> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Cap-Haïtien?<strong> </strong></h2> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Jérémie?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is Milot?</strong><strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is Zavane Zombi? </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Gonaives?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Fond-des-Blancs?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Pointe Des Lataniers?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is Thomonde?</strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Léogâne?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is Tortuga?</strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Port Salut?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h3> <h2><strong>Where is </strong>Anse-Rouge?<strong> </strong></h2> </h3> </section> <section> <h2></h2> </section> <section> <h3></h3> </section>       

Remember: there are no winners, and no losers — only opportunities to learn more about Haiti and to find new places to explore. Did you recognize any of the cities in the quiz? Which ones were you hearing of for the first time?

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2020.

Our recommendations

Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

October 9, 2020 by Editor

Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

Located in the crescent coast of the bay of Port-au-Prince, the neighborhood of Martissant was once home to boulevards and villas where Haitian high society lived and thrived. These days, Martissant is high-density and not exactly a tourist destination. But there are a few things in Martissant that are worth the trip, and the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center is one of them.

Nested away in Martissant Park, the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center is a haven of peace, calm and community. It is named after African-American dancer and choreographer Katherine Dunham, who moved to Haiti in the 1930s to learn about the African heritage of Caribbean dance forms. Now known as the ‘matriarch of black dance’, Dunham is credited with bringing African and Caribbean rhythm and technique into the professional dance repertoire.

Katherine Dunham’s private home and studio

During her stay, Dunham befriended a few Haitian officials, and became an important cultural ambassador for Haiti. In the centre of Martissant, Dunham purchased a leafy seven-acre property, which she used for herself and for her US-based dance company. A hotel was built there, and for a number of years Dunham received and entertained the elite of Haiti and other lucky invitees.

The lavishness inside the walls, and luxury of being able to focus on art, was an extremely sharp contrast to the poverty-afflicted neighborhood of Martissant. Now, it is giving something back.

Now open to the public

After Dunham passed away in 2006, her property was transformed into a cultural center, and now features an iconic library, whose five buildings – built to emulate movements of dance – were designed by Mexican architects Raúl Galvan Yañez and Winifred Jean Galvan.

This is why from a distance, it is possible to see and identify the geometric, free-flowing silhouette of the center. On the right hand side of the actual center is the relic of an imposing peristil which belonged to Katherine, and which she used during her time in Haiti as a space for Vodou ceremonies inspired by Dunham’s research into African and Caribbean culture.

Most days of the year, the cultural center is open to the public. It houses a very well composed library for young children, teenagers and adults. It is possible to check books out of the library, with a minimal subscription fee. An attractive, bright, intuitively built interior attracts you to a table, or to a shelf. Everything is exceptionally well designed to encourage community and communication.

Events

Because Martissant Park is under the sponsorship of Fondasyon Konesans Ak Libète (the Foundation for Knowledge and Liberty), the Centre also hosts many roundtable discussions, forums, and panels. There are rotating activities all week long for children, as well – ranging from storytelling workshops to readings conducted by popular Haitian authors. The Center also hosts book signings and conferences by young up and coming authors.

There is always plenty of activity at the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center. It is an exceptional venue made possible by an exceptional woman, and pays homage to her life as passionate activist who lived immersed in Haitian culture.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2020

Find the Center

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Hotel Villa Thérèse

July 2, 2020 by Anton Lau

morning light on hotel with pool in port-au-prince — Pool area at Hotel Villa Thérèse, Pétion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

Hotel Villa Thérèse

Experience the luxury of a tropical staycation right in the middle of Pétion-Ville when you stay at Hotel Villa Thérèse.

First Impressions

At Hotel Villa Thérèse, the experience of a relaxing, tropical vacation comes true. Tucked away in the busy city of Pétion-Ville, this boutique hotel provides a well-needed oasis of peace and quiet. The homely, cream building seems to be tucked between tufts of trees; greenery climbs on and over some of the walls. The sound of the pool’s waterfalls sings a welcome song that is amplified from the reception hall to visitors’ personal sanctuary rooms.

Rooms

A quaint boutique hotel, Hotel Villa Thérèse houses a total of 23 units. Visitors have the choice between standard rooms, suites, or an apartment. Featuring wooden ceilings, all of the rooms are equipped with air conditioning and a private balcony overlooking the hotel’s private gardens. Two of its suites benefit from a view of the nearby mountains, and beautiful sunsets, every evening.

What’s for breakfast?

Hotel Villa Thérèse offers the standard continental breakfast, with options such as eggs, fresh local fruit, and baked goods. While this may be a fine option, most visitors tend to gravitate towards the hotel’s menu of local breakfast options like spaghetti, polenta and greens, and prepared liver.

How about lunch and dinner?

When lunch or dinner time rolls around, visitors can choose to eat from two different menus. Regulars rave about Hotel Villa Thérèse’s cheeseburger and lamb chop. The Lakay platter, an assortment of pork, goat, conch, fried plantain, and cassava fritters, is the absolute best foray into Haitian cuisine. If you have the chance to spend a Sunday on the island, you will want to get acquainted with their spit-roast pork.

Is there a bar?

The hotel also houses a small bar that seats 12, with a large wooden terrace overlooking the cascading pool. Their specialty is the Villa Thérèse cocktail, which is rum and fruit-based. It’s very difficult to have just one!

Activities and amenities

Hotel Villa Thérèse is a partner of GG Spa, who provides visitors and patrons of the hotel with massage services either in one of the rooms, or poolside. The hotel offers free WiFi to its clients.

Within a short walk you can find…

There are many restaurants not too far away from the hotel, as well as art galleries — less than 5 minutes away! Place Boyer and Place Saint-Pierre are also less than 5 minutes away. Should visitors be looking for some fresh air, the Boutilier observatory is 20 minutes away.

Need to know (before you go)

The hotel offers a paid transportation service with a personal driver, in an armored car. Laundry is also available, with clothing returned the very same day. Unfortunately, the hotel does not allow pets.

Getting there

For directions and bookings visit Hotel Villa Thérèse on Hotels.com

Ã—Select Language

Port-au-Prince

Parc de Martissant

This park houses gorgeous flowers, medicinal plants and the Haitian home of the ‘matriarch of black dance’.

The Katherine Dunham Center

The medicine garden

Habitation Leclerc

The earthquake memorial

How to visit

Citadelle Henri

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Try Barbancourt rum

Barbancourt is Haiti’s oldest and most-loved brand of rum – you’ll find it all over the island.

Distilled in Haiti since 1862

A cultural icon

Which Barbancourt should you try?

Where to try it

Visit Barbancourt distillery

Find Barbancourt Distillery

External Links

Citadelle Henri

Explore more of Haiti’s history

Paradise for your inbox

Catch a show with Haitian Vodou rock and roots band RAM

Every Saturday night at the Oloffson, the band RAM delivers an unforgettable performance of Vodou-infused rock. Here’s what you need to know before you go.

RAM live: an unmissable experience

The early days of RAM

How to see the show

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Paradise for your inbox

QUIZ: Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?

Are you a new visitor getting ready to explore Port-au-Prince, or an explorer ready for adventure in Dondon? Let’s test your knowledge of these 12 Haitian cities.

Start taking the quiz on the map below!

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Our recommendations

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Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

Katherine Dunham’s private home and studio

Now open to the public

Events

Find the Center

External Links

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Looking for some cool things to do?

Paradise for your inbox

Hotel Villa Thérèse

First Impressions

Rooms

What’s for breakfast?

How about lunch and dinner?

Is there a bar?

Activities and amenities

Within a short walk you can find…

Need to know (before you go)

Getting there

Hotel Villa Thérèse

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

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Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses