TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

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Meet the Locals: Haitian Actor Jimmy Jean-Louis

haitian actor in black suit with photographers
Jimmy Jean-Louis
Photo: ITAR-TASS News Agency / Alamy Live News

Haitian Actor Jimmy Jean-Louis

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Jimmy Jean Louis is one of the most popular Haitian faces in international cinema. After starting as a dancer, spending time in musical theater, and modeling, he made his debut in Haitian films and soon transferred to the American scene, where he became a pride point for many of his fellow islanders watching him all the way back home.

Currently based in Los Angeles, Jimmy still maintains a deep, strong, and long-standing relationship with Haiti, visiting whenever he can, and cultivating his appreciation— and that of his peers —for all the island has to offer.

We spoke with the star of “Citation,” on Netflix, about his favorite things to do and places to see in Haiti.

haitian actor in front of oversized golden oscar statuette
Jimmy Jean-Louis
Photo: ITAR-TASS News Agency / Alamy Live News

When you take a trip to come to Haiti, where do you usually stay? In the capital or your hometown?

I try to do both because I grew up in Pétion-Ville — even though I am from Bainet — so I try to spend some time there, but I also try to make time to go to Jacmel. I really do enjoy Jacmel, more precisely, Kabik, and if I’m in Haiti for a long time, I can try to visit more places in the South, whether it’s Les Cayes— you know, all that part, but really, for me, it’s about Pétion-Ville and Jacmel.

If you were to visit Haiti with a friend who had never been before, and stay in Port-au-Prince for a couple of days, can you guide us through a few things you think your friend should absolutely see or do while they are there?

I’d definitely try to get there on a Thursday just to hit them hard with the RAM night, at Hotel Oloffson. So, after that, definitely take a nice drive throughout the city, because I think it’s so rich in color and life, it’s a must-do; take a ride up in the mountains, maybe have some food at the restaurant, L’Observatoire.

Definitely take a drive all the way to Kenscoff. I would probably stop for a drink, maybe by Hotel El Rancho, just to show them that side of Haiti, as well as stopping by one of the street vendors to buy something local, too. Maybe some griyo!

And if you were to guide them for a 2—3 day weekend in a province city of your choice, where would you take them and what would you do?

You know what, I would probably drive down to Ile a Vache, to Les Cayes. Spend one night at Ile a Vache. Then take them to Port Salut for the beach, and maybe, if I have time, go to Grottes Marie-Jeanne, because I think it’s spectacular.

On the way back from all that, I’d definitely take them to Jacmel for one day as well; so go through the streets of Jacmel, see the artisans, and have a good day at the beach, whether Timouyaj, Kabik, or Raymond-les-Bains.

Do you have a favorite beach?

Kabik in Cayes-Jacmel. But then again, you know, it depends on the time of the year. When the water is clear in Kabik, it’s wonderful. You can also have some food at that restaurant, just on the water, it’s a nice spot.

Do you have a favorite place in Port-au-Prince where you like to go for food?

That’s hard; it’s not necessarily for food. For example, the Oloffson Hotel is a good place once it’s happening, because I think it’s a good mix of all kinds of people, and it’s a good representation of the Haitian culture, right there, in one spot. Whether you are part of the bourgeoisie, a wealthy person, poor, you can find a place at the Oloffson. I like that about it.

Is there a specific time of year you prefer to come to Haiti?

The time between the end of one year and the beginning of another has the most pleasant climate; it’s less hot, you know? But otherwise, I don’t really have a preference; it’s true that July and August can be a little bit too hot, most of the time, but really, I don’t mind because I like Haiti in all seasons.

If you could give some recommendations to people who have not yet visited Haiti, or who have been here once but would like to come back, what would you tell them?

If the person isn’t at ease in the country, it’s going to be a little more delicate. I would recommend them to find someone they can trust, and follow the guidance of that person.

I go there and I get one of my cousins to be with me. It’s just to have a presence. And then from that presence, you can pretty much go anywhere because that person who is in Haiti knows how Haiti functions, so I just trust them.

I would highly recommend the North as well— meaning going to Cap-Haïtien, taking a day to go to La Citadelle, taking a day to go to Ile a Rat, or Labadie. You could also spend quite a nice weekend doing that, because you have all the historical locations and monuments that are in Cap-Haïtien.

The sights in the North are slightly different from other parts, and if I had to hit a restaurant in Cap-Haïtien, of course, it would be Lakay Restaurant. What’s nice with the North as well is that you have direct flights from outside of Haiti, which eases the transition.

If you could influence people’s idea of Haiti, what would you like to tell them?

To tell you the truth, there is something people always say when they speak about Haiti and it’s the expression that it’s the “Pearl of the Caribbean.” I love using that expression because what once was the Pearl of the Caribbean can become it once more; it all depends on how we approach the country. How do you get people to understand that what was, still is? What has been will always be, regardless of what is happening right now.

Haiti is still the only country and the first country that fought for and won its independence; meaning that it is the first Black republic in the Western hemisphere. That is extremely important, and nobody can ever take that away from Haiti. So that’s a good point of reference, if anyone wants to know about Haiti. They have to start there.

man laying in a hammock by the ocean
Jimmy Jean-Louis in a hammock on the beach in Kabik, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Jimmy Jean-Louis

Interview by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2021


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15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

a plate of haitian food
Fritay at 5 Coins, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

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Haiti is a land of bold flavours, bright colours, intoxicating music, mischievous spirits and a heady mix of cultures. Haitian creole cuisine is built on fresh seafood, island-grown greens and exotic fruits, all full of West Indies spices and an often surprising mix of elements both familiar and strange.

The fast-service restaurant concept hasn’t yet washed ashore in Haiti, so be ready to lean into the luxury that is island time: even in the capital city, everything has an unhurried, unpretentious atmosphere. Sipping rum sours in a palm-fringed patio or lounging around in an airy, high-ceilinged colonial dining room while you wait is a great way to sink into the Caribbean vibes.

Here is our ultimate guide on where to find the best Haitian eats for every taste:

a plate of haitian food
Fritay at 5 Coins, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

1. Fritay at 5 Coins

The cornerstone of Haitian cuisine, fritay is the best place to start your Haitian food journey. 5 Coins is one of the most well-known names in the business, with five kitchens throughout metropolitan Port-au-Prince. They offer all the classic fritay dishes: bannann peze (fried plantains), griyo (fried pork), akra (malanga fritters), lam fri (fried breadfruit) and fried chicken – all supplemented with Caribbean staples – rice and peas – or specialty sides.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat
Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

2. Fish at Le Coin des Artistes – Vivano

Seafood straight from the surf is unbeatable. For the best fresh fish in Port-au-Prince, drop into Le Coin des Artistes — Vivano. Because their fish is always sustainably caught on their own restaurant-owned properties, your meal is supporting best-practice fishing in Haiti. You can ask for your fish to be either pwason griye (grilled) or an sòs (stewed).

plate with conch gratine and slices of bread
Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

3. Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant

Head downtown to the Pacot district for the treasure that is Gingerbread Restaurant. Their gratine lanbi (conch gratinée) alone is worth the trip. Locally known as lambi, conch is a mollusc native to the waters of the Bahamas but popular throughout the Caribbean islands. A step above the standard lanbi an sòs (stewed conch), this is a Haitian foodie experience to savour. The rich sauce of the gratinée envelops tender bits of conch, rendering them even more flavorful than they are naturally. A real culinary delight!

plate with pizza topped with shrimp, onions and cheese
Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

4. Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou

Interested in what Haitian cuisine can do when it fuzes with food from other countries? Look no further than Yanvalou’s shrimp pizza! A specialty of the house, it’s the perfect cross between the mellow, indulgent feeling you get from enjoying pizza, heightened by the fresh taste of tender bits of shrimp scattered on top. Down a slice along with a rum sour in the leafy patio.

colofull restaurant area with tables and chairs
La Coquille restaurant in Pétion-Ville
Photo: La Coquille

5. Buffet at La Coquille

Come hungry to La Coquille! This popular Pétion-Ville restaurant houses one of the most well-known Haitian cuisine buffets in the capital. Work your way through fried pork, fried chicken, stewed conch, and goat — alongside a selection of rice-centric sides, depending on what is available that day. White rice and black bean sauce, rice and peas, djondjon rice…dessert is included as well!

6. Griyo (fried pork) at Au Bon Griot

A quick drive outside of Pétion-Ville you’ll find Au Bon Griot, one of the best places in the area of Boutilier for griyo (fried pork). While it’s one of those hole-in-the-wall places, it definitely is somewhere worth stopping. Made fresh to order, the griyo comes with a generous helping of fried plantains and pikliz. What better way to enjoy griyo than overlooking the city of Port-au-Prince?

7. Fettucine Djondjon at Karibe Hotel

If you’ve tried djondjon rice, you know this tiny mushroom packs a punch. Native to Haiti, djondjon mushrooms are known for their “exquisite color, taste and aroma.” For a dish that makes the most of this unique ingredient, stop by the restaurant at Karibe Hotel in Juvénat for their specialty – djondjon fettucine! The rich, velvety pasta sauce is made inky black by the exotic djondjon.

8. Soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Kinam Hotel

You’ve read all about it – now treat yourself to a warm and comforting bowl of soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Pétion-Ville’s Kinam Hotel. Filled with pasta and rustic chunks of carrots, potatoes, and meat, this soup is an already hearty meal, but some people enjoy it with freshly toasted bread, which you can request. Soup Joumou on Sundays is a cultural institution in Haiti, and there’s no better way to kick off your week!

Outside Port-au-Prince?

That’s Port-au-Prince covered, but what about the rest of the country?

hands holding a sandwich with meat
Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff

Out touring the hills of Thomassin or Fermathe? You’re not far away from the area of Kenscoff, where the specialty of bib is extremely popular. What is a bib? Simply put, it’s a sandwich that features fried pork meat and pikliz (a spicy relish and a crucial in Haitian creole cuisine) in soft, pillowy bread. No formal restaurant here, just a hole-in-the-wall place just past the police department of Kenscoff, but a must-try foodie experience nonetheless!

waiter holder a plate of grilled goat meat with carrots and potatoes
Kabrit griye at Ranch Le Montcel, Kenscoff
Photo: Ranch Le Montcel

10. Kabrit griye (grilled goat) at Le Montcel, Kenscoff

Sustainably-raised meat is more common than you might expect in this island nation. One of the best places to taste the creole dish kabrit griye (grilled goat) is Le Montcel. A sprawling property set into the hills of Kenscoff, Le Montcel is able to grow a lot of its own produce and raise its own animals. This makes for one of the most succulent griyo, which pulls apart wonderfully!

11. Mayi moulen ak fèy (cornmeal and spinach) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

One of the pleasures of waking up in Cap-Haïtien is getting breakfast on the boulevard. We recommend stopping by Boukanye, where you can enjoy a hearty, flavorful breakfast of mayi moulen ak fèy!

While mayi moulen (polenta) is usually eaten as the major part of a midday or evening meal, it is prepared here for breakfast as mayi moulen ak fèy, served with spinach and kipper. Even better with freshly sliced avocado! In season (roughly august-november) avocados are so abundant on Haiti that you can afford to eat them for breakfast every day – and pay off your mortgage too.

12. Poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

Visit pirate-themed bar and grill Boukanye in Cap-Haïtien to try the North Haitian specialty of poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews). Cashews grow around Cap-Haïtien and are used liberally in local cuisine. In this signature northern dish, succulent strips of chicken stirred through a flavorful, savory sauce, and topped with halved cashews. Usually enjoyed with a generous side of white rice, or rice and peas.

13. Lanbi an sòs (stewed conch) at Lakay, Cap-Haïtien

Lakay in Cap-Haïtien is one of the best places to get lunch. If you happen to be in the area, we recommend getting the lanbi an sòs (stewed conch)! The stewed-to-perfection conch melts in your mouth. The house standard is served with rice but you can request fried plantains or fried potatoes to make for an even more robust meal – great if you’ve been out hiking or swimming all morning.

vendor cutting pieces of gingerbread
Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) in Les Cayes
Photo: Franck Fontain

14. Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) from Les Cayes

Wander up to the crossroads of Quatre-Chemins in Les Cayes to find the delicacy that is bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread). Thick, sweet, and filling, it is the kind of dessert you enjoy with a cup of coffee or tea. It’s like giving your tastebuds a big warm hug.

milk fudge wrapped in plastic
Dous makòs (milk fudge) in Petit-Goâve
Photo: Franck Fontain

15. Dous makòs (milk fudge) from Petit-Goâve

For those who have a curious sweet tooth, the town of Petit-Goâve is the place to go. Here you’ll find dous makòs (milk fudge); a wonderfully decadent tri-color sweet treat. Sugar, milk, condensed milk, and a slew of warming spices like vanilla, nutmeg, and cinnamon come together over high heat, are poured into molds to cool, then sliced into the delicious, rich slabs of dous makòs fudge.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2021


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