Jacmel

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival

August 28, 2018 by Editor

Dancing at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Franck Fontain

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval

A weekend at Jacmel’s annual Carnaval is the ultimate way to saturate your senses in the essence of Haitian culture. Here’s how to join the party.

An Afro-Caribbean cousin of Mardi-Gras, Carnaval is much more than a party. It’s a season spirit that sweeps over the nation every year, creating an outlet for creativity, revelry and the uninhibited celebration of all things Haitian: brave colors; bold flavours; incredibly good, cheap, rum; intoxication music and dancing; an undercurrent of mysterious folklore and mischievous gods; the visibility of a colonial past and a fiercely independent spirit.

If you’ve only got a short break to spend in Haiti, the last thing you want to do on arrival is spend more of your precious time journeying cross country or taxiing around the city looking for action. So why not plan ahead and make your long weekend a non-stop party, instead?

Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting here

Flights depart most major US airports for Port-au-Prince daily, with prices starting from $200-$300 US depending on your point of departure. Once in Port-au-Prince, you can get to Jacmel via private taxi, Moto or public transport in minivans known as Tap-taps. The trip takes about 3 hours: luckily, it’s the best quality-road in the country and offers some of the prettiest roadside scenery.

A tap-tap will only set you back about US$10, but it’s not for the faint-hearted: expect it to be cramped and stuffy, and embrace the chance to get out of your comfort zone. For best results, get in early and head for the back row which offers fresh air and good access to the view of passing countryside.

Once you arrive in Jacmel, prepare to be swamped by moto drivers who will enthusiastically vie for the chance to drive you to your accommodation. If you’re travelling light, you can walk: Jacmel is compact and everything’s within walking distance. If you feel like starting your trip with a shot of adrenaline, you can jump on a moto, but not before you read this guide.

Where to stay

If you book in advance, you can find accommodation at a spectrum of hotels, from historic lofty-ceilinged mansions of Victorian coffee barons like Hotel Florita to ocean view Airbnb villas with their own pool overlooking Jacmel bay like the Chic Chateau to family-owned hotels with private beach like Cyvadier Plage and maybe even a couchsurfing couch.

Whatever you choose, your local host will probably share with you their favourite way to enjoy Carnaval weekend.

Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to party

First up, this is a three-day party. Slow and steady wins the race, so don’t get too swept away by the strange tides you can feel overtaking the city. The joy of Carnaval is in the air, but it’s ok to enjoy the atmosphere from afar while you settle into your room and crack open the first drink of the weekend.

If you make the rookie mistake of partying too hard on Friday night, you’ll be hitting the snooze button while everyone else is hitting the beach. On the Saturday morning of Carnaval weekend, the best thing to do is to pack a bag and head to the beach where it’s time to socialize, surf, and sip coconut water and rum.

As the moon rises over the gorgeous 3km-wide expanse of Jacmel bay, it’s time to choose your party. Head to the Vatican for house-crowd-pulling DJs. Get amongst something live and local at Congo Beach Club or Suave, where they usually feature live concerts with a variety of artists. Kreyol La, Carimi, T-Vice and RAM are more good choices. Stay up as late as you like, but remember that Sunday is the big finale.

This brings us to the final stretch of the weekend: Sunday, and the main event. “Kanaval” proper is a parade the floods the streets with song and rhythm and color. The creativity and intricacy of the masks is constantly astonishing: alongside the primary colors, voluminous dresses and cornucopia-turban-hats you expect, you’ll see a much more modern palette of costumes, body painting and masks that veer into the dark, bizarre and surreal, rivalling the novelty and extravagance of Burning Man.

All this is set to a ceaseless backdrop of Caribbean rhythm and voices lifted in song, often creole. The bands have an impressive level of energy and stamina, and the “cha” will teach you that music can be played louder than you thought was possible. For the next twelve hours, the main streets will be packed with movement as the crowd parties throughout the night and into the early hours of Monday.

Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval
Franck Fontain

Carnaval stands

It’s recommended to fork out $10-$30 for a ticket to a stand. You can leave your belongings up there and disappear into the crowd, ride the wave of the parade participants, and then return for a rest when you need to.

Travellers who are in Haiti on a budget might be tempted to forgo a seat in one of the Carnaval stands that looks out over the parade, but their hopes of getting closer to the action and a more authentic (and cheaper) experience will soon be dashed against the rocks of inconvenience and exhaustion. It’s much better to have a spot on a stand and not use it than to need a spot on a stand and not have it.

If you sprinted into the weekend on Friday night with a big hoorah then the parades, rara bands and cha’s on Sunday will more than likely exceed your tolerance for stimulus. But if you start your weekend off right, you’ll be able to keep up with the rum cocktails, the rara and cha.

Carnaval is vibrant mayhem, organized chaos, unfathomably loud, fascinatingly beautiful, and will surprise you year after year. Because, let’s be honest, once you’ve experienced it…you’ll be back.

Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018

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Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

July 21, 2018 by admin

Person swimming beneath a waterfall in Bassin Bleu, Haiti — Bassin Bleu waterfall near Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

No visit to Jacmel, in Haiti’s south-east, is complete without a trip to the natural wonder of Bassin Bleu.

Guarded by imposing rock formations, this series of four cobalt-blue pools linked by waterfalls is just 12km west of Jacmel.

Jacmel is Haiti’s sixth largest city, and although it was once named the City of Light (after becoming the first city in the Caribbean to get electricity), it’s the secluded jungle basins of nearby Bassin Bleu that make Jacmel one of the most visited cities in Haiti.

Cobalt Blue Water

With four basins of pristine natural beauty to choose from – Cheval, Yes, Palmiste and Clair – you can take your pick, but the star of the show (in our humble opinion) is undoubtedly Bassin Clair.

Pool surrounded by cliffs at Bassin Bleu waterfall, Jacmel — Bassin Bleu, Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Four Bassins

Hiking through the dense, humid greenery of the surrounding jungle to find the falls, you can expect to break a sweat, but as the rush of the waterfalls grows louder, the forest clears, and the marvellous turquoise of Cheval basin comes into focus, you’ll be glad you made the effort.

Cheval is the first basin on the trail, and although striking in colour, the water is quite safe to wade into. Cheval doesn’t make it into many travel guides, but it’s shallow depth makes it suitable for everyone, including children (under supervision of course). If you’re planning on seeing the rest of Bassin Bleu, take the time to pause at Cheval: sit back, relax, and enjoy the impressive view of the southeastern coastline while you soak your feet in the bright-blue water.

For intrepid explorers who want to continue, a short walk will bring you to the 15 ft deep Bassin Yes. Beyond Bassin Yes, you’ll be rewarded with the perfect stop for a drink and bite to eat (and another swim of course), in the form of Bassin Palmiste, an impressive 57 ft deep. A series of uniquely-crafted concrete tables and seating areas, designed to meld into and complement their natural surroundings, provide convenient places to enjoy the view in comfort.

To see firsthand the impressive Bassin Clair, you’ll need extra effort, a rope, and the help of an experienced guide. Not far past Bassin Palmiste you’ll find a narrow staircase set into the natural rock formations, which will lead you up to the top of a rock hunkered into the side of the mountain. The short descent – just 10 feet – down the other side will feel much further, and is best done under the watchful eye of a guide, assisted by the aforementioned rope. Welcome to Bassin Clair.

Woman stands on the bank of a bright blue pool at Bassin Bleu, Haiti — Bassin Bleu, Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Dive in

Beneath the inviting turquoise surface, there’s much more to this pool than meets the eye. At 75 feet deep, Bassin Clair is an incredible location for floating meditation, and offers the deep tranquility and peace that flotation tanks can only dream of. As you drift, suspended, the stone of the mountain beneath your feet gives way, and the unusual mix of minerals in the pool buoys you up, creating the sensation that you are floating through air.

For the thrill-seekers among you, mere floating may not be enough. Join the ranks of experienced (or just adventurous) locals who climb up the rock surface to one of the jumping-off points and perform dives and backflips, taking turns breaking the serene surface of Bassin Clair. Just make sure you save some of that energy – it’s easy to forget you still need to hike back out at the end of the day.

Want to see for yourself why a visit to Bassin Bleu is considered one of the best day trips in Haiti?

Getting to Bassin Bleu

Option One:
Join a tour from either Jacmel or Port-au-Prince. A veteran guide will lead you through the jungle and delivery you safely to your dream destination. With transportation included (from Port-au-Prince and typically from Jacmel as well), this option takes the effort out of the journey, leaving you with more energy to explore Bassin Bleu itself.

Option Two:
It’s possible to get to Bassin Bleu from Jacmel on foot. Head towards the Riviere Gauche and look for the sign that directs visitors ‘this way’. You’ll want to pack plenty of water for your hike through the dense vegetation up the side of the mountain. Following the inclines of the path, you’ll see plenty of interesting landscape and get a commanding view of the south-east coastline, and the reward of the swim at the end will be all the sweeter.

Entrance fees
Admission is 100 HTG per person and an additional 100 HTG per car in parking fees.

A note on guides:
Getting to Bassin Bleu can be tough but rewarding and we recommend hiring a local guide.

When it comes to finding a guide, don’t worry – they’ll find you! In fact, if you don’t pick a guide and insist that the other hopeful candidates leave you alone, you can end up in the awkward situation of having several guides accompany you, all expecting to be paid at the end. Choose one (or more) guide, and insist that the rest leave you to it.

Make sure you negotiate a price with your guide before you start – 250 to 500 HTG is a reasonable price. Bring the right bills with you.

Remember, never underestimate the power of the water or the risks associated. If you are not joining a tour, inform your hotel or accommodation owner where you are going and be sure to check the conditions before you trek in. Happy travels!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018

Find Bassin Bleu

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Jacmel City Guide

July 4, 2018 by Editor

Ocean boardwalk in Jacmel — Boardwalk at Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Whether you’re looking for adventure, nature, fast festival rhythms, rejuvenation on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel will slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

old colonial houses in coastal city — City center of Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Switch off in the City of Light

Once dubbed the “City of Light,” the seaside city of Jacmel was the first place in the Caribbean to get electricity back in the nineteenth century. These days, there’s something else unusual about Jacmel’s power use – it’s limited, meaning if you Airbnb here, you better be prepared with backup batteries for the daily ritual of switching off from the grid.

For many Americans power outages are rare, unpredictable, inconvenient and even spooky. They’re when you realise you forgot to put fresh batteries in your flashlights, and/or leave your flashlights where you can find them in the dark. For the residents of Jacmel, though, it’s part of the daily rhythm, and it doesn’t seem to phase the travellers who love coming back to Jacmel every year. Jacmel is famous for festivals, and in-between it’s a magical destination, well-equipped to help you switch-off and hit reset.

Stairs with a mosaic of words in Jacmel, Haiti — Stairs with mosaik art in Jacmel
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Art & Culture

Known as the culture capital of Haiti, Jacmel is a hub for art, folklore, foodies, festivals and nightlife. Colorful paper-mache creations, often seen during Jacmel’s annual carnival, can be found and bought all year round. Many of the masks and paintings are reflective of Haiti’s deeply unique religion – the potent symbology of Haitian Vodou infuses the city streets.

Jacmel is a compact city, and easy to explore on foot. For a closer look, you can ask local guides Experience Jacmel to take you to visit a Vodou “peristyle” or help you make your own carnival mask.

A tourist stands on a stone bridge across rapids at Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti — Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Are you more of an outdoorsy-type? Jacmel offers excellent proximity to many of Haiti’s most exciting al-fresco adventures. Reconnect with nature at La Vallée, Bassin Bleu, Marigot or Fort Ogè in Cap Rouge – all within a short drive or a sturdy hike.

The tropical sun will test your mettle, but for the brave and well-prepared there are caves waiting to be discovered, waterfalls waiting to be jumped off of and swam under, steep and shady jungle paths for you to leave footprints on, and crisp mountain air to reset your cortisol levels. You’ll find adventure itineraries suited to your level from novice hiker to hardened overland survivor.

people swimming by beach with trees — La Saline Beach in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Crazy-good beaches

If you’d rather hit the snooze button than the gym, no sweat! Beach bums can relax at one of Jacmel’s several stunning strips of paradisian sand, including Cyvadier, Raymond les Bains, L’Amitie and Kabic. Soak up the sun, catch some waves, sip on a coconut (would you like that with rum?), and lick your fingers after a plate of freshly caught and barbecued seafood.

Whether you’re hoping to realign your chakras or just happy to find inner peace in a succession of ice-cold rum cocktails, you’ll find bliss on the beaches of Jacmel.

The colorful exterior of Cafe Koze in Jacmel, Haiti — Cafe Koze in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The food culture in Jacmel is thriving, and published guides struggle to keep up with the pace of new hotels, bars and restaurants springing up all of the place.

Take to the mosaic boardwalk as you trace the coastline, by day a popular place for active types out jogging, and by night full of eclectically-clothed hipster students. Venture just a couple of streets inland from the boardwalk and you’ll find a mix of traditional and boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries, with a few souvenir shops thrown into the mix.

Where to eat

If you’ve just arrived, settle in at the chilled-out Cafe Koze, where you can people-watch over their mouth-watering homemade rum-and-raisin ice-cream.

Hotel Florita, once the mansion of a coffee magnate, will appeal to fans of Graham Greene. Here you can sit in the sultry semi-open courtyard (the UNESCO-listed hotel has no air conditioners), and sip a traditional Haitian filter coffee – exceedingly sweet and rich, and every bit as addictive as Vietnamese coffee. The restaurant serves excellent Haitian food palatable for cautious Americans and Europeans, but be warned: waiting times can exceed an hour. You won’t mind though, because they also make delectable rum sours, and the first is on the house!

If what you’re after is exotic food and exquisite beachfront views, head to Hotel Cyvadier Plage. Their shrimp and chicken dishes are crowd pleasers, but their specialty is in brightly constructed plates based on seasonal catch. In fact, if you’re breakfasting in the courtyard (and know a little French), you’re so close to the lapping shore that you can chat with fisherman as they tie up their boats to deliver the catch of the day.

Where to drink

Start with La Taverne or Belle Epoque Barak. La Taverne is where you’ll find more rum sours, and occasionally salsa performances. Belle Epoque is where expats go to stay up late listening to hip hop and house. They also do pretty good wings – not a bad way to line your stomach before a long rum-fuelled night of dancing.

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti — Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dance to your own beat

Jacmel is one of the friendliest and most tranquil cities in Haiti, but if you want to pack the most into a short break here, the best way to plug yourself into the pulse that feeds the city is to book in advance to stay during one of the festival weekends. Renowned DJs and artists will bring together hundreds, sometimes thousands of people, from all walks of life, to sing, dance, and celebrate. Whether your flavour of choice is rara or bachata, compa or salsa, house or tango, ask around on a holiday weekend, and you will find your party.

There’s too many festivals to list them all here, but briefly: Independence Day and New Years Day share January 1, and Carnival (think an Afro-Caribbean Mardi Gras) is held in the lead up to Shrove Tuesday. There’s also festivals that celebrate storytelling, rum, and the identity-affirming Rara.

Who should go?

Jacmel holds something for everyone. Whether you are looking for new adventure, to reconnect nature, to let your hair down surrounded by the pounding festival rhythms, or to rejuvenate on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel has something to slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

One last thing before you head back up over the mountains: buy yourself a t-shirt that reads “Jacmel Mwen Fou Pou Ou” (Kreyol for “Jacmel, I’m Crazy For You”) and become part of the unofficial Jacmel fan club. Welcome to the gang.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018.

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Jacmel

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval

A weekend at Jacmel’s annual Carnaval is the ultimate way to saturate your senses in the essence of Haitian culture. Here’s how to join the party.

Getting here

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Where to stay

How to party

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Carnaval stands

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Explore more festivals and events

Paradise for your inbox

Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

No visit to Jacmel, in Haiti’s south-east, is complete without a trip to the natural wonder of Bassin Bleu.

a touch of haitian wisdom

Cobalt Blue Water

Explore Four Bassins

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Dive in

From Our Land to Your Home

Getting to Bassin Bleu

Find Bassin Bleu

External Links

Citadelle Henri

Looking for some cool things to do?

Paradise for your inbox

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Switch off in the City of Light

Art & Culture

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Crazy-good beaches

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

start your day the Haitian way

Where to eat

Where to drink

Dance to your own beat

Who should go?

From Our Land to Your Home

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Plan Your Trip

Destinations

Information

Company

Plan Your Trip

Destinations

Information

Company

Select Language

a touch of
haitian wisdom

start your day
the Haitian way