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Ten of the Best Books about Haiti

December 21, 2019 by admin

A woman wearing a bikini relaxes in a window holding a book — Relaxing in a window in Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

The 10 books you should read before you visit Haiti

Cosy up with these ten books that explore the fascinating stories of Haiti.

Did you know that in Haitian vodou, a healer and a sorcerer are two completely different things? There are so many things to learn about Haitian culture and history that sometimes, the details slip between the fingers. The best way to catch them? Get comfortable with a good book!

Planning a visit to Haiti, or just want a closer understanding of this “land with a soul”? Here are the top 10 books that explore the fascinating history and culture of Haiti.

Masters of the Dew by Jacques Roumain

For those of us who love literature, nothing replenishes our sense of self or our faith in humanity like a good novel. Speaking of humanity, Masters of the Dew by Jacques Roumain, published in 1944 just a few months before the death of its author, is a Haitian literary classic par excellence.

Masters of the Dew is a deeply powerful story of traditional life in rural Haiti, overshadowed by the natural world but illuminated by human struggles. The novel touches on the necessity for a man to confront adversities great and small, from the need for freedom and a future for an entire population, to the need for water, soil and silk. Masters of the Dew is a parable of sorts, and compelling argues that the most beautiful mathematical equation is an addition.

Roumain was deeply invested in politics, and is famous in Haiti for founding one of the nation’s most important institutions for cultural preservation, the National Bureau of Ethnology, as well as resisting American occupation and advocating for Marxism. In fact, it was only thanks to the help of Roumain’s friends in France, André Breton and Aragon (both antifascists and members of the French surrealist movement), that Masters of the Dew was able to see the light of day in France.

We can’t mention Jacques Roumain without introducing another Jacques (and another of Haiti’s great novelists) – Jacques Stephen Alexis.

General Sun, My Brother by Jacques Stephen Alexis

Son of Haitian diplomat and novelist Stephen Alexis (1889–1962), Jacques Stephen Alexis distinguished himself early in life as a brilliant writer and politician. Another outspoken Marxist and close friend of the French surrealists, Jacques Stephen Alexis was already a respected thinker when he published his debut novel, General Sun, My Brother.

The story follows the life of two Haitian laborers from the slums of Port-au-Prince to the cane fields of the Dominican Republic, where they find themselves swept up into one of the most nightmarish moments in the diplomatic history of Hispaniola: the 1937 massacre. Strongly inspired by Roumain’s Masters of the Dew, General Sun, My Brother is a call to action, a refusal of passivity.

In the Flicker of an Eyelid by Jacques Stephen Alexis

Building on the acclaim of his debut novel, In the Flicker of an Eyelid propelled Alexis to his reputation as a genius writer. Another pillar of the Haitian classical canon, In the Flicker of an Eyelid is considered the most beautiful romance novel in Haitian literature. The story begins in a bordello in Port-au-Prince, but don’t let that mislead you – more than just a love story, this novel interweaves lessons about love, doubt, politics, social consciousness, patriotism, and the passage of time.

Rires et Pleurs (Laughs and Cries) by Oswald Durand

If you’re open to poetry and get sentimental about sunsets, reach for Rires et Pleurs (Laughs and Cries). Rires et Pleurs carries in it all of the symbolic weight of a people freshly liberated and on a quest for beauty. Oswald Durand is to poetry what Alexis is to novels.

Les Cinq Lettres by Georges Castera

“It is not with ink that I write to you but with my voice of drums besieged by falling stones”

Has a man loved before like Georges Castera in Les Cinq Lettres? “Love me like a burning house” is the poet’s request in this collection, and if you love French poetry then you and Les Cinq Lettres will get on like a house on fire.

So Spoke the Uncle by Jean Price-Mars

Want to learn more about Haitian culture and identity through a sociological/scientific framework? You’ll want to start with the book that sits at the root of the largest sociocultural movement of the Caribbean and Africa: blackness. In So Spoke the Uncle, Jean Price-Mars preaches a return to Haitan cultural origins. After all, he says, how do we know where we’re going if we don’t know where we come from?

Today, So Spoke the Uncle remains a the go-to reference text for anthropologists consulting the concepts and events crucial to Haiti’s history.

The Equality of Human Races by Anténor Firmin

Long before Price-Mars, Anténor Firmin was writing The Equality of Human Races to show that there was no such thing as race and that black, white, brown, or in between, the human species is one being, united and indivisible. One of the biggest public high schools in Port-au-Prince is named after Firmin.

Peintres Haitiens by Gerard Alexis

Interested in Haitian art? Peintres Haitiens by Gerard Alexis should be right up your alley. With over 300 color reproductions and text including art theory and artists’ biographies, Alexis explores five tenements of Haitian art: portrait and historical paintings, nature and daily life, vodou mysticism and figuration-abstraction.

Voodoo: Search for the Spirit by Laennec Hurbon

And if you want to quench your curiosity for Haitian vodou, we strongly recommend Voodoo: Search for the Spirit by Laennec Hurbon. Neither in-depth study nor lighthearted foray, Voodoo: Search for the Spirit offers an excellent, accessible, practical overview of the topic, enriched by pages and pages of gorgeous full-color photos and excerpts from other literature on vodou.

Haiti: the Aftershocks of History by Laurent Dubois

“As acclaimed historian Laurent Dubois demonstrates, Haiti’s troubled present can only be understood by examining its complex past. The country’s difficulties are inextricably rooted in its founding revolution – the only successful slave revolt in the history of the world; the hostility that this rebellion generated among the surrounding colonial powers; and the intense struggle within Haiti itself to define its newfound freedom and realize its promise.” ― Macmillan

Here’s what the critics say about Haiti: the Aftershocks of History:

“Well-written, authoritative history… enriched by careful attention to what Haitian intellectuals have had to say about their country over the last two centuries.” ―The New York Times Book Review

“A sweeping, passionate history of Haiti… Smart, honest, and utterly compelling, this book is the national biography this country and its people deserve.” ―Boston Globe

“A book as welcome as it is timely: a lucid one-volume history of the nation, from Toussaint to the present, anchored in scholarship but rendered as a comprehensive-but-swift narrative for the general reader.” ―The Nation

“This excellent, engaging history seeks to strip away centuries of mocking and reductive bias. Dubois’s Haiti is a land of ceaseless activity, a ferment of suppression and insurrection exacerbated by the mercenary intrusions of foreign powers–in the past century, chiefly the United States. Dubois also traces a parallel history of bold social experiments on the part of everyday Haitians… Throughout, he makes clear how economic pressures and political crises have left even the county’s better leaders hamstrung, without downplaying their failures in fulfilling Haiti’s great promise.” ―The New Yorker

Bonus:

La Belle Amour Humaine by Lyonel Trouillot

Mon Pays Que Voici by Anthony Phelps

History of Haiti by Suzy Castor. French edition (Haiti Autrement) available online here

Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2019

More Art & Culture

Cap-Haïtien City Guide

December 13, 2019 by admin

church cathedral in cap-haitien, haiti — The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

City Guide: Cap-Haïtien

As Cap-Haïtien’s 350th anniversary draws near, take a swooping dive down into the heart of the city, and learn how it earned its well-deserved title as Haiti’s second city.

The Paris of the Antilles

Cap-Haïtien is Haiti’s second largest city, popular with travellers because of its proximity to world-class beaches and UNESCO heritage sites.

A key city during the Caribbean colonial period, Cap‑Français (as it was then named) earned the nicknamed the Paris of the Antilles for its sophisticated architecture and artistic culture. It was the capital city of the French colony of Saint Domingue from 1711 until the Haitian Revolution, when it became the capital of the Kingdom of Northern Haiti under King Henri Christophe. Christophe renamed the city from Cap‑Français to Cap-Henri. When Christophe died in 1820, the whole island of Hispaniola was briefly unified, and it was in the early phases of this (re)unification that Cap-Haïtien was given the name it has today. Mostly, though, you’ll hear this beautiful city called simply “Le Cap”.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings — Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

What to see and do in Cap-Haïtien

The Cathedral
The early 20th century Notre Dame Cathedral (also known as the Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, Cap-Haïtien Cathedral and (French) Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l’Assomption.

Héros de Vertières
Héros de Vertières (Heroes Monument of Vertières) is an open-air sculpture park dedicated to the heroes of the 1803 Battle of Vertieres.

The Battle of Vertières was the last major battle of the Second War of Haitian Independence, and the final battle of the Haitian Revolution led by Jean Jacques Dessalines. It was fought on November 18, just south of what is now Cap-Haïtien.

An inspiring site that celebrates a remarkable moment in history, a visit to the Heroes de Vertieres is especially empowering for travelers from the Haitian diaspora. The monument is on the western outskirts of the city, within a five-minute drive of both Hôtel Impérial and one of our favorite places to eat in Cap-Haïtien, Lakay.

The Bottle Gate(s) (French: “Barrière Bouteille” / “Barrières Bouteilles”)
These iconic bottle-shaped structures mark the historic entrance to the city.

The Iron Market (French: Marche au Fer)
Named after the iconic Port-au-Prince Iron Market, this lively market is housed inside a Victorian-era cast iron pavilion. First built in 1890 under Haitian engineer Alexandre Bobo, Cap-Haïtien’s Iron Market has attracted tourists since the 1960s thanks to its impressive period architecture and the huge range of handicrafts sold here – especially colorful ritual objects associated with vodou practice. Today, the Iron Market is a chaotic sprawl of craftspeople and food vendors hawking their produce.

Dance to live music
Let your hair down like a local with these Cap-Haïtien musice scene stalwarts: Septentrional and Tropicana d’Haiti. Catch them at a venue called Versailles (named after the French royal palace).

yellow restaurant building in cap-haitien — Lakay, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to eat

Lakay: Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent (and huge!) traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Boukanye: our favorite place to drink coffee in Cap-Haïtien, this pirate-themed hangout is a great bar by night but a cozy café by day.

Cap Deli: serving up some of the freshest food in the city, Cap Deli is the place to go in Cap-Haïtien for American-style burgers and pizza.

Lolo: a new Italian-Haitian restaurant, Lolo serves exquisite fresh pasta and fine wine.

Must-try local specialities: Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Woman throwing a towel down to relax on the beach on Amiga Island, Ile-a-rat — Amiga Island, (Ile-a-Rat) close to Cap Haitien
Photo: Anton Lau

Best beaches

The best beaches nearby are Cormier, Labadee and Île-à-Rat Island (Amiga Island).

The beach at Cormier is one of the most under-appreciated on the island – and only a twenty minute drive from downtown Cap-Haïtien.

Labadee Beach is one of the crowning jewels of Haiti, with fine sands and crystal-clear blue water that attracts cruise ships from around the world.

Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island) is a tiny island off the beaches west of Cap-Haïtien. This little paradise is a microcosm of what makes Haiti one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean, with fine white sand beaches, shady palm trees, warm turquoise waters, incredible fresh seafood – and fewer crowds. The swimming is superb, and snorkelers can find half-buried colonial artillery and anchors.

For USD $40 a boat taxi from Labadee will take you to Île-à-Rat, and for an extra USD $15 they’ll cook you up a fresh lunch of lobster, octopus, crab or fish, all caught locally. Make sure you take some ice-cold bottles of rum and Prestige with you for the trip!

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti — Boat taxis going to Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island)
Photo: Verdy Verna

Where to sleep

All-inclusive resorts:
Cormier Beach Resort

Ocean view hotels:
Top hotels include Hôtel Impérial, Hotel Satama, Habitation Jouissant, Habitation des Lauriers and Mont Joli

Hidden Gem:
Kay Lolo Plage

Only accessible by boat, Kay Lolo Plage is a boutique B&B secluded in a private cove and surrounded by tropical forest. The separate bungalows and villa are in great condition and offer travellers a private beach with gorgeous views, birdsong and very exclusive vibes. There’s no wifi or running water here, but you’ll find kayaks, paddleboards and a breakfast cooked just for you.

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière and mountain range, Haiti — Citadelle Laferrière, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Awesome day-trips

South of Cap-Haïtien, Citadelle Laferriere is a hilltop fortress built by revolutionary leader Henri Christophe.

Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferriere. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

The city of Dondon is located about two hours south of Cap-Haïtien and has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno people lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

Getting there

American Airlines fly direct from Miami to Cap-Haitian, with fares starting at US $127 and a flight time of less than two hours.

From Port-au-Prince, Haiti’s capital city, Sunrise Airways will take you to CAP in 45 minutes for less than US $100, but it’s more fun, and you’ll see more of Haiti, if you jump on a cross-country bus or rent a car. On wheels, the journey from PAP to CAP will take four hours or more, depending on your route. Will you drive inland via Lake Peligre and Bassin Zim, or along the Caribbean coastline via Montrouis and Gonaïves?

Coming from the Dominican Republic? Caribe Tours, the most popular bus company in Dominican Republic, runs daily from Santiago to Cap-Haïtien. The journey takes roughly five hours: two and a half hours from Santiago to Dajabon, on the Dominican border, then another hour from Haitian border town Ouathamije to Cap-Haïtien. Return tickets cost US $25 per person, plus an extra US $25 border-crossing fee.

For more information, see our guides to getting to Haiti and transport within Haiti.

Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published December 2019

Top things to see in Haiti

Sans-Souci Palace

April 11, 2019 by admin

Sans-Souci Palace

The ruins of Sans-Souci Palace are a UNESCO World Heritage monument to post-revolutionary opulence.

Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferrière. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

Sans-Souci Palace, which translates to ‘the Worry-Free Palace’, dates back to 1811, just after Haiti had become the world’s first independent black republic. Despite the weight of time – and a significant earthquake during the nineteenth century – the ruins of the Sans-Souci Palace maintain an imposing air and stand as an inspiring testament to the opulent post-revolutionary era.

Visitors can spend an hour or two exploring the palace and grounds before heading onward to the Citadelle.

Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

History

The Sans-Souci Palace was built to serve as a residence for the revolutionary leader Henri Christophe, who would become king in 1811, a year into the palace’s construction. The palace was one of many lavish constructions Christophe ordered at that time, including the Citadelle Laferrière.

Christophe used his reign as an opportunity to build up Haiti’s standing in the eyes of the international community – particularly its former colonizer, France. Christophe was well known for the luxurious parties and feasts he hosted at the palace, and the palace’s design – from the lush gardens to the intricate waterworks installation still visible in the ruins – reflects this luxury.

The name “Sans-Souci” itself came from another Haitian revolutionary, Jean-Baptiste Sans Souci, who Christophe had asked to form a united front with, but who refused out of mistrust. A decade or so before the palace was built, Christophe invited Sans Souci to visit him. When Sans Souci accepted, he was promptly assaulted by Christophe’s guards – and legend has it that the palace bearing his name was built where he was killed.

Visiting the north of Haiti is a great way to brush up on Haiti’s history; here, visitors can see many of the country’s important landmarks, historic sites, and monuments dedicated to the memories and visions of pivotal figures in Haiti’s history.

Aerial view of the ruins of Sans-Souci Palace, Haiti — Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Where to eat

Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent, and huge, traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Where to sleep

Most travellers visiting Sans Souci and the Citadelle stay in Cap-Haïtien as accommodation options in Milot are fairly basic.

Getting there

Sans-Souci is located in Haiti’s North Department, close to the town of Milot.

Culturally curious travellers are well-advised to carve out a chunk of time for exploring the north of Haiti. While the capital city of Port-au-Prince and the entire South of the country are full of gorgeous destinations and exciting things to do, the North of Haiti is where a lot of the country’s history has its roots. Cap-Haïtien is the perfect base, and with the recent opening of the airport to international flights, visitors no longer need to arrive in Port-au-Prince first. Around a half-hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien is Milot, the jumping-off point for hikes to the UNESCO site.

For a small, negotiable, fee, a local guide will lead individuals or groups from nearby Milot up to the palace and guide you to the areas open to the public, which can otherwise be difficult to distinguish. A fair fee for a guide is US$20 to US$30, plus a fee for hiring a horse.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019

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Fiercely independent – Haiti has attitude

December 8, 2018 by Editor

Black and white portrait photograph of an old Haitian woman

Fiercely independent: Haiti has attitude

Haiti dances to its own rhythm. What’s behind the nation’s unique personality and place in history?

18th century Haiti, or Hispaniola as it was named then. It’s a colony of France, and it’s the most prosperous and fruitful colony in the entire Caribbean, supplying France and Europe with coffee, sugar and many other goods – harvested and produced with slave labor.

For slaves, days have no end; they begin and end each day’s labor in the torture of knowing they are and forever will be slaves. Across the island, things are getting tense. Revolution is brewing.

From centuries of slavery has come a kind of fire – slow-burning, but extremely intense – and it lives in the stomach of every single slave on the island; man, woman and child. Risking life and limb, oppressed Haitians hold hushed meetings, organise illicit nighttime reunions, and some escape to the mountains.

People gather around for a Vodou ceremony inside a Haitian Vodou temple in Petavie — Vodou ceremony at Ti Papa’s vodou temple in Petavie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Vodou visions of freedom

On the night of August 14, 1791, at Bois Caïman, one event pulls on the last thread holding colonial rule together. A Vodou ceremony gives birth to a concrete plan that will irrevocably change life on the island. In a spirit of revolution, of community, and of kinship, the slaves who reunited that night catalyzed an insurrection that spanned several days. The Northern Plain was set ablaze, and freed slaves retaliated against their former slave owners.

This was the seed of the Haitian revolution that culminated in 1804, with slave rebels taking their freedom once and for all.

Haiti is the only place in the Caribbean where an enslaved class successfully fought off and ousted their oppressors. This victory would not have been possible without the determination, community, and the will to try and fail and try again. And the spirit that enabled Haitians to fight for their birthright of freedom is still alive today.

If everything you know about Haiti so far has come from news reports, you’re missing so much of the picture. While the 2010 earthquake was truly disastrous, and Haiti’s young democracy still has its troubles, the average Haitian’s reality is very different.

Four young fishermen in Baradères, Haiti — Fishermen in Baradères
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

“Here, the early bird gets the coffee”

Take a stroll anywhere in Port-au-Prince, or even in Jacmel, or Cap-Haïtien. Haitians rise with the sun – because they know that every day is a new chance to do better than they did the day before. Here, the early bird gets the worm, the coffee, and the morning laughs around the merchant serving up bananas and boiled eggs.

You’ll see Haitians eating breakfast on their front porch, in front of their office, or on the tap tap – there is no rest for the driven.

Under the harsh morning sun, bare-chested young men pull giant makeshift wooden wheelbarrows loaded with bags of charcoal. The muscles in their arms and chest strain as they push tirelessly – there’s only one way to stop, and that’s to get to where they’re going.

Midday. It’s time for lunch for most – or for the second shift, job, or side-hustle. The fire that lit up the revolution of 1804 is still alive, pushing people to survive and thrive. There are better days ahead, but we have to live to see them.

“A testament to the power of overcoming the unknown”

For Haitians, this isn’t just a daily mantra, it’s a year-round mindset that feeds into the ebbs and flows of island life. Perhaps the best illustration of this is the annual carnival season.

For many Haitians, the turn of the year is associated with financial difficulties and cloudy horizons. “We know what we have, but not what’s out there.” Carnival, which spans the months of February and March, is a testament to the power of overcoming the unknown.

Passion comes through everything Haitians do. It’s in the young men selling water in the streets. It’s in the late night laughter of people sitting at a bar by the side of the street. It’s in the mornings, noons, and nights of hustlers, of move-makers, of mothers leading households on their own, of families in the provinces, and of spirits young and old.

Haiti speaks purpose; do you?

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

Explore Haiti’s Art & Culture

Soup Joumou – the taste of freedom

December 2, 2018 by Editor

A bowl of soup joumou on a serving tray — Soup Joumou
Photo: Anton Lau

Soup Joumou – the taste of freedom

This once-forbidden stew now symbolises independence.

What is soup joumou?

Soup Joumou is a delicious and aromatic dish with a dense history, dating back to when it was a favourite of French slave-owners in eighteenth-century Haiti.

Joumou is the Kreyòl word derived from giraumon in French, which means “pumpkin,” in English. If you’re an avid fall cook, you might see joumou varietal pumpkins at some specialty supermarkets in the United States. They’re easy to spot at Haiti’s sprawling farmers’ markets.

To make soup joumou, two to three joumou are diced into sizeable chunks, and cooked in hot water until they are tender. While this happens, some meat is usually prepared to go with it: beef or pork, depending on what is available in the area. Once the joumou is tender, it is chucked into a blender with some of its cooking water and blended to a soft, silky consistency.

It all goes back into the pot over a low heat setting, and is joined by carrot chunks, potato cubes, cabbage quarters, pasta, and the prepared meat.

This simmers for a while, until the pasta is tender. Some people add dumplings at this point as well. After adding zesty, spicy seasoning, it’s ladled into a large serving bowl, which will sit at the center of a dining table with fresh bread from the local bakery, awaiting Sunday fast-breakers.

You’ll also find it as a centrepiece of New Year’s Day celebrations.

Why is soup joumou so special?

In 19th century Haiti, living conditions for slaves were unspeakably awful. As elsewhere in the world, they were treated brutally, kept enslaved by a combination of gruesome physical treatment and psychological abuse. Slavemasters denied these people as much as possible, even seemingly trivial things, especially if those things were associated with the lifestyle of Haiti’s white, slave-owning bourgeoise.

One tradition that was well established within the bourgeoisie was that of having soup joumou. Some households could afford to make it several times a week, others only on Sundays, but a bowl of soup joumou was never to be seen in the hands of a slave. This food was not intended for them, as it was too rich, too wholesome, too good.

In the first years of the 19th century, slaves and free black Haitians led a successful revolution, taking control of the country and instating their own language, their own institutions, and their own customs. As a potent symbol of the abundance that had been denied them for hundreds of years, the newly free population appropriated the food most symbolic of freedom: soup joumou.

Independence was officially declared on January 1st, 1804. To celebrate that first New Year’s Day, the people of Haiti prepared, cooked, and shared soup joumou. A delicacy previously forbidden, it was now made available to everyone. More than two hundred years later, the tradition is still going strong.

If you’re in Haiti on a Sunday, and especially if you’re here on New Year’s Day, make sure you try a bowl of soup joumou. You might find it at a hotel or served hot by a street vendor, but the best soup joumou is home-made – so make some friends.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

Our recommendations

10 Years after the Earthquake in Haiti

November 10, 2018 by Editor

People walking, carrying containers, across the horizon at sunset, Haiti — People walking in the sunset
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

10 Years after the Earthquake in Haiti: The Long Road Back to Growth

Almost ten years on, we take a look at how the nation is recovering, and what it needs now from the international community.

Some things never really fade from the fabric of memory. For Haitians, and many people watching from around the world, the earthquake of January 12, 2010 was devastating.

The damage wrought by the earthquake was more than physical. A sense of grief and the injustice of this random event hovered over the twenty-seven thousand square miles of Haiti; a thick grey cloud no one called for, and many believed was here to stay.

How could Haiti possibly get back up after a blow like this?

In the twenty-four hours after the earthquake, most people had the same answer to that question, and that was to do what they knew how to do best: be there for one another.

It wasn’t easy. To this nation of people tempered by centuries of struggle, this enemy was the hardest to fight. There was no battle, no rallying cry, no tangible chains to be broken. In less than a single minute, the landscape of Haiti as we all knew it had changed forever, and in the darkness of a January evening, it was hard to see the light of hope.

But if there is one thing that Haitians have learned to master over the years, it is taking misfortune and turning it into strength and resilience.

Group of fisherman in Dame Marie, Haiti — Fishermen, Dame Marie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Over the course of that afternoon, all throughout that night, and for the next two to three weeks following the earthquake, the true colors of the Haitian people shone bright. People helped complete strangers, volunteered to clear rubble, distributed food and supplies, and opened their front and back yards to folks looking for a place to make sense of their new life. Beyond the ceaseless static of dreadful international news reports, a shift was taking place.

Haitians were pulling other Haitians through the worst of it all.

It is that Haitian resourcefulness, that Haitian spirit, that Haitian perspective on life that saw hundreds of thousands through the worst of the earthquake aftermath. Nobody knew where the next meal would come from, when we would rebuild, or whether there would even be a tomorrow – but we made the most of those grim moments. Late at night, strangers bonded on sidewalks, next to street food vendors; families woke up to each new sunrise on salvaged mattresses in their front yards, grateful to see the dawn. Life in Port-au-Prince was lived day by day.

“Kòman nou ye?” “Nou lèd, men nou la.”
“How are you?” “We are ugly, but we are here.”

After the earthquake, life was indeed ugly. The blow came swiftly and unexpectedly; and while Haitians across the country were fighting their way through each day, it wasn’t easy to recover. With over 230,000 killed, there were fewer people to repair the damages, and their families were grieving for them while they tried to rebuild. Non-governmental organizations, charities and volunteers distributed first aid kits and food to neighborhoods in need, and eased people into temporary housing installations – but something was missing.

Tourism numbers had dropped off a cliff.

Five runners jogging over the suspension bridge in Chameau, Haiti — Dining area at Maraca restaurant in Santo Domingo
Photo: Anton Lau

In times of natural disaster-induced crisis, the instinctive reaction is to put a band-aid over whatever is broken or hurting – literally and figuratively. Emergency care is a big priority, and people came from across the US and the world to volunteer. But after the first few months, what Haiti really needed for rehabilitation was more visitors.

In its prime location in the heart of the Caribbean, Haiti is a natural tourist destination: with the turquoise Caribbean sea lapping at a thousand miles of coasts, sunny weather throughout most of the year, plenty of natural treasures to discover, and a bold and rich culture, Haiti is a tropical El Dorado waiting to be discovered.

After months of international news reporting that painted Haiti as a disaster zone, it’s hard to blame travellers for staying away. But this stagnation in the tourism sector was an extra setback for Haiti.

There’s another factor that often goes overlooked, too. In 2010, the whole Caribbean was enduring the effects of the financial crisis.

While dealing with a massive natural disaster, Haiti was also sharing the weight of the Great Recession with the rest of the world. Strenuous economic conditions tightened travel budgets in the US especially, and made it difficult for people to visit. The typical influx of tourists coming from the United States, from Canada and France decreased sharply – and for Haiti’s tourism economy, the wind went out of the sails. In major tourist cities like Jacmel, Cap-Haïtien, Jérémie, and Les Cayes, as well as in Port-au-Prince, the repercussions were strongly felt: “Pa gen afè.” “There is no business.”

Despite all this, Haiti took on the optimistic character of its frequent sunshowers: through steady rain, the sun shines on, bold and bright.

As it kept putting efforts into pulling itself up, the country fell into a virtuous cycle. People picking up the pieces of their lives motivated others to do the same; one person walking through their neighborhood clearing up rubble prompted another to ask them if they could pitch in. A mother spending the night staying awake to watch over children was relieved by another come dawn. A shoulder to cry on over a lost one became a friend to lean on for long after the disaster.

There are still no words to accurately describe the strength, courage, and enthusiasm for life Haitians had to muster up in the weeks, months, and years of earthquake’s aftermath. If you visit now, you’ll see a million ways their faith in a better tomorrow has manifested itself. Taking each day as it came turned into an openness to adventure, and a new desire to travel within the island and see more of our beautiful country. Opening our homes to other Haitians was good practice for AirBnB! Wanting a better tomorrow for one another became putting our best foot forward for the world to see.

Almost ten years on from the earthquake, this tragic setback has turned into what it truly means to be Haitian: bravely marching into each day, arm-in-arm, making only the very best of who and where we are.

What Haiti needs now from the international community is tourism – if you’re looking to soak up some Caribbean sun, come visit Haiti, and see how much has changed.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

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The 10 books you should read before you visit Haiti

Cosy up with these ten books that explore the fascinating stories of Haiti.

From Our Land to Your Home

Masters of the Dew by Jacques Roumain

General Sun, My Brother by Jacques Stephen Alexis

In the Flicker of an Eyelid by Jacques Stephen Alexis

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Rires et Pleurs (Laughs and Cries) by Oswald Durand

Les Cinq Lettres by Georges Castera

So Spoke the Uncle by Jean Price-Mars

The Equality of Human Races by Anténor Firmin

Peintres Haitiens by Gerard Alexis

Voodoo: Search for the Spirit by Laennec Hurbon

Haiti: the Aftershocks of History by Laurent Dubois

Bonus:

Citadelle Henri

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City Guide: Cap-Haïtien

As Cap-Haïtien’s 350th anniversary draws near, take a swooping dive down into the heart of the city, and learn how it earned its well-deserved title as Haiti’s second city.

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Sans-Souci Palace

The ruins of Sans-Souci Palace are a UNESCO World Heritage monument to post-revolutionary opulence.

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Fiercely independent: Haiti has attitude

Haiti dances to its own rhythm. What’s behind the nation’s unique personality and place in history?

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Soup Joumou – the taste of freedom

This once-forbidden stew now symbolises independence.

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10 Years after the Earthquake in Haiti: The Long Road Back to Growth

Almost ten years on, we take a look at how the nation is recovering, and what it needs now from the international community.

start your day the Haitian way

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a touch of
haitian wisdom

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Vodou Symbols

a touch of
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start your day
the Haitian way