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Citadelle Henri

Citadelle Henri near Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Climb to the Citadelle and See the Fortress That Defended a Nation

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Citadelle Henri, known to locals simply as La Citadelle, is the largest fortress in the Americas. Haitians call it the eighth wonder of the world, and once you reach the summit of Pic Laferrière, you’ll understand why.

The mountaintop fortress is massive, rising 130 feet from Bonnet à l’Évêque, at an elevation of 3,000 feet above sea level. From here, you’ll take in unparalleled views in every direction—over jungle-clad mountains, winding rivers, and the shimmering Caribbean Sea.

Citadelle Henri in Milot
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

What You’ll See

Built to demonstrate the power of a newly independent Haiti, Citadelle Henri was also a defensive stronghold, designed to protect the country if the French attempted to retake the nation. The 100,000-square-foot fortress includes vast cisterns and storehouses, meant to supply the royal family and up to 5,000 people with enough food and water to withstand a year-long siege.

Armed with over 150 cannons, mostly captured from the English, French, and Spanish, the fortress once stored more than 50,000 cannonballs. With walls over 13 feet thick and rising 100 feet high, the Citadelle was built to be impenetrable.

Fortunately, the French never returned, the canons were never fired in combat, and the Citadelle is much the same today as it was 200 years ago. In recent years, restoration efforts have been supported by organizations like the World Monuments Fund, which works to protect this historic site for future generations.

Visitors can spend hours exploring the site—walking its ramparts, drawbridges, cannon batteries, and long corridors designed to outwit invaders. Many windows and ramparts drop off into sheer cliffs, offering breathtaking views of northern Haiti.

Inside the courtyard, you’ll find a brand-new museum, an art gallery, and modern restrooms, along with a small gift shop selling drinks and postcards.

A National Icon

Citadelle Henri is Haiti’s most popular historic site, visited by both Haitians and travelers alike. It holds a visible place of pride in Haitian culture—you’ll see its distinct triangular shape on 5 HTG coins, 100 HTG bills, and even the covers of school textbooks.

Citadelle Henri
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The History Behind Citadelle Henri

Citadelle Henri was constructed between 1805 and 1820, following Haiti’s successful revolution, in which the formerly enslaved African-descended population overthrew French colonial rule and declared independence. It took 15 years and 20,000 people to build.

The fortress was part of a larger defensive network, which included Fort Jacques and Fort Ogé, all built to protect Haiti from future invasions by European forces from neighboring colonies. While earlier forts were constructed during the revolution itself, Henri Christophe ordered the construction of the Citadelle in 1805, just one year after independence, as a permanent stronghold against potential attacks.

Rising 130 feet above the mountaintop, the Citadelle not only provided strategic defense but also sent a clear message. Even from its base, the fortress offers uninterrupted views of the sea, but more importantly, it could be seen from miles offshore—a warning to any would-be invaders that Haiti was ready to defend itself.

Construction, personally overseen by Christophe, was completed in 1820, cementing the Citadelle’s place as one of the greatest military fortifications in the Americas. Today, it is not only a national symbol but also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its historical and architectural significance.

Citadelle Henri
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Getting there

The Citadelle is located in the town of Milot, just south of Cap-Haïtien, about a one-hour drive away.

The journey begins near the entrance to Sans-Souci Palace, where visitors must pay an entry fee of $10 USD. Here, you’ll find plenty of local guides offering tours of both Sans-Souci Palace and the Citadelle. Guide prices vary depending on your group size, but the fee is per person and covers both sites.

At the entrance, you’ll also find vendors selling drinks, snacks, and souvenirs—but be sure to bring cash, as you’ll need it for transportation, entry fees, tipping, and purchases. It’s also a good idea to bring water, especially if you plan to hike.

To reach the Citadelle’s summit, you have three options:

  • Take a moto (motorbike taxi) for around $10 USD.
  • Hike on foot (1 to 2 hours, depending on your fitness level).
  • Ride on horseback ($15 USD).

The route from Sans-Souci to the Citadelle is only 4 miles (6.5 kilometers), but with an elevation gain of over 2,000 feet (700 meters), the climb is steep. Many visitors choose to stay overnight in one of the many hotels in Cap-Haïtien rather than making it a rushed trip. If you’re spending time in the city, be sure to check out the coolest things to do in Cap-Haïtien and beyond to make the most of your visit.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019.
Updated March 2025.


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Haitian Vodou Revealed

vodou priestess kneeling on floor in a huge and colorful dress
Vodou priestess Manbo Nini, Jacmel
Photo: Verdy Verna

Haitian Vodou Revealed

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Vodou originated in the African kingdoms of Fon and Kongo as many as 6,000 years ago. In modern Haiti, this spiritual practice is a creolized version that incorporates Amerindian Taíno and Arawak deities, Medieval Catholic influences, and even Masonic rituals!

By and large, people associate Vodou* with evil, devil worship, and violent animal sacrifice. But many of its rituals (even those that include the sacrifice of live animals) focus on restoring peace and balance – in families, communities, and between the human realm and the realms of the lwa – the spirits.

Vodou religious leaders are respected figures in their communities, providing guidance, settling disputes, and providing medical care in the form of herbal healing. Priests – oungan – and priestesses – manbo – dedicate their lives to helping others and assisting them in serving their lwa. People who practice Vodou are known as vodouwizan, vodouisants (French), or in Haitian Kreyòl, sèvitè – “servants of the spirits”.

As Haitian nationals and the Haitian diaspora in Canada, the United States, and France become more open about their practice of Vodou, the truth about this enigmatic spiritual practice is slowly being revealed to the world. This is a story of how a spiritual tradition designed to heal and maintain balance was caught up in a case of mistaken identity, from which it is still recovering today.

haitian vodou practitioners in dimly lit cave with candles
Vodouwizans with candles
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Devil-worship or disinformation?

A 2011-12 exhibit at the Canadian Museum of Civilization suggests that Vodou was the target of a cultural disinformation campaign. Between 1915 and 1934, the United States Marine Corps occupied Haiti. During the occupation, Haiti became the backdrop for books and movies depicting Vodou as cruel, sinister, and bloody. Tracing media depictions of Haitian Vodou over time, the museum showed how anti-Vodou propaganda was deliberately spread to discredit anti-occupation forces. Movies like White Zombie, released in 1932, portrayed Vodou priests and others who resisted foreign occupation as bloodthirsty, deceptive, and downright evil.

Test your knowledge of Vodou

Now that we’ve set the record straight, it’s time to test your knowledge of this mysterious religion.

hanpainted exterior wall of vodou temple
Vodou peristyle
Photo: Emily Bauman / Amanacer

1. True or false: there are separate branches of Vodou

Answer: True!

Vodou lwa are divided into several branches or “nations”: the most prominent are Petwo and Rada.

Since there are more than two branches of lwa, it’s difficult to define Petwo and Rada purely in opposition to each other, but they are certainly starkly different.

Some anthropologists have described the Rada as benevolent and the Petwo as malevolent, or the Rada as representing ‘insider’ forces while the Petwo represent ‘outsider’ forces.

Rada lwa, according to anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown, are generally gentle, kind and mostly concerned with supporting the wellbeing of their adherents. Petwo lwa, on the other hand, are hot-tempered, even explosive – the rituals that call Petwo lwa involve intense drumming, whip-cracks, gasoline and even ignited gunpowder. Some anthropologists believe the Petwo lwa are indigenous to Haiti, not imported from Africa – generated either as creolizations of native Taíno or Arawak deities, or born out of the need to survive the harsh conditions and trauma that the enslaved vodouwizan had to endure.

We can illustrate this dichotomy with the two rival lwa, Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò. Two aspects of the same female deity, Erzulie Freda is a Rada lwa, and Erzulie Dantò is a Petwo lwa. In the same way that a diamond has hundreds of facets, a Vodou spirit or lwa has seemingly unlimited sides. Practitioners understand that if the entire lwa – in its full power – were to manifest itself, it would be overpowering, so they choose to invoke only one facet at a time.

Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò are each part of a whole, but are depicted in traditional Haitian folklore as starkly different. Erzulie Freda is depicted as a fair-skinned bourgeois city woman who enjoys wealth, luxury, and the finer things in life like perfumes, jewelry, and flowers. Her counterpart, Dantò, a fierce defender of children, women, and society’s rejects, is dark-skinned and proudly wears two distinct scars on her face. Whereas Freda might respond to a crisis by crying, Dantò responds by becoming enraged.

The vèvè Vodou symbol for each version of Erzulie contains a heart, but each is distinct. Erzulie Dantò’s cosmogram features a sword through a heart, indicating her power to enact vengeance, protect children, and fulfill the fiery side of love on behalf of the lwa.

Whether you attend a ceremony held for Erzulie Freda or Erzulie Dantò is as different as going to a gentle Quaker gathering for collective consciousness unity, or a Pentecostal prayer meeting calling on the Holy Spirit for vigorous and fiery healing.

man lighting candles in a lavishly pink decorated room for vodou ceremony
Ceremony for Erzulie Freda
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

2. True or false: Vodou is all sinister sorcery and black magic

Answer: False!

There are two satellites of Vodou one might call secret societies. The dark practices of these secret societies were mistakenly called Voodoo by American officials in the early 1900s, causing confusion that persists to this day.

These two secret societies are Makaya and Bizango. They are what one may more accurately consider dark magic or sorcery; their practitioners use curses and incantations designed to cause harm. As opposed to Petwo and Rada Vodou, whose goals are to support and guide life, Makaya and Bizango employ practices harnessed against life.

How did these secret societies arrive in Haiti? It is said that Bizango started as a blend of West-African Bo and European necromancy brought to Hispaniola by colonizers. The story goes that African slaves brought to work sugar plantations were witness to their masters’ dark rituals on the plantations. This is when European knowledge would have been acquired, then combined with rituals from Africa to form a new syncretic practice.

Makaya, on the other hand, is believed to be a merging of Amerindian shapeshifting and other ritual secrets with the imported West-African Bo. The native inhabitants of the island were reputed to know the art of shapeshifting and of poisons, with rituals and practices designed to harm or protect individuals and communities.

Makaya places a stronger emphasis on shifting one’s corporeal form, and its lore includes stories of teleporting from one side of the island to another through secret portals revealed to the marooned slaves by the native Taíno. Some say that this is how revolutionaries were able to travel swiftly across the island and confound colonial armies.

When the US military occupation began in 1915, Western filmmakers exploited rumours about the darkest practices of Bizango and Makaya “voodoo” and through these caricatures, whether deliberately or not, vilified the country’s spiritual tradition.

In reality, love spells, curses, and rituals of revenge fall outside the realm of Vodou altogether. Curses, spells – and zombies – are instead the specialty of Bo in West-Africa and Bizango or Makaya in Haiti. In U.S. Vodou practice, they are categorized as “hoodoo” and should not be conflated with Vodou.

So if it’s not black magic, what is maji in Vodou?

When life gets chaotic and out of our control, westerners turn to psychologists, and Haitian vodouwizan turn to oungan and manbo. Everywhere on earth, for people of every faith, race and class, life can suddenly be thrown out of balance by sickness, professional failure, financial loss, family crisis or community conflict. At such times, vodouwizan ask the lwa to intervene and help the person in distress. This intervention is maji.

Practitioners of maji perform treatments to heal or protect those who consult them. In a dedicated room called a badji, the practitioner uses ritual to call in a lwa whose intervention is most appropriate for the given situation. The lwa may speak to the practitioner, or through the practitioner, possessing the practitioner’s body to investigate the situation for itself. The lwa decides on the appropriate course of action required to restore balance and shares this valuable information through the manbo or oungan.

woman making a cross with two knives on a straw hat
Ritual being performed at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

3. True or false: voodoo dolls are real

Answer: True AND False

During the American occupation, books and films aimed at the general public propagated many of the fictions that continue to degrade Vodou by associating it with evil sorcery. One of the strongest fictions is the image of a voodoo doll pricked with pins to cause injury or suffering to an enemy.

Pricked with pins and full of evil powers, the primitive cloth doll has become the image most often associated with Vodou in the world’s collective imagination. This has nothing, however, to do with the real spiritual practice in Haiti.

In reality, dolls are occasionally used in the practice of Haitian Vodou, but not to cast spells! Placed near graves or hung from the branches of Kapok trees, these dolls convey messages sent by vodouwizan to the dead or to ancestors.

4. True or false: zombies are real

Answer: True!

Forget what you think you know about zombies. While Haitian zombies may not match their typical portrayal in popular media, they hold a very real place in the country’s cultural beliefs. There’s so much to explore about zombie fact and fiction that we’ve dedicated a separate article to it.

Learn all about Haitian zombies here.

haitian vodou practitioners with head scarfs during ceremony
Women at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. True or false: vodou and Christianity first merged in the new world


Answer: False!

Many of the slaves brought to Hispaniola from northern and central Africa between the 16th and 18th centuries practiced the African form of Vodou. Since the colony’s slave code required all slaves to convert to Christianity, Vodou dances were strictly forbidden, and slaves could not observe their religion openly. They found themselves borrowing many elements from Catholicism to disguise and thus maintain their spiritual practice.

Lwa were assigned the faces of corresponding Saints. For example, Saint Peter holds the keys to the kingdom of heaven and corresponds to Papa Legba, who in Vodou is the gatekeeper to the spirit world. This process, known as syncretization, is why visitors to Haiti can see paintings for sale of a figure who appears to be Mary Mother of Jesus with black skin, and not know that they are really looking at a portrayal of Erzulie Dantò.

What is even less known is that this syncretization began hundreds of years earlier, before the first captured slave was ever sold on Haiti’s shores.

Long before Christopher Columbus docked on the island of Hispaniola, Portuguese monks visited the kingdom of Kongo, from where much of Haitian Vodou originates. These early Christian missionaries arrived in the capital after a long journey, appearing before the Kongo chief and his queen. They wore the plain beige robes of the medieval Jesuit priesthood.

The priests brought with them ornate golden crosses and, with permission, set up shop as missionaries do. They began to learn the local language, communicated as best they could, and shared stories about the Christian Holy Trinity, the resurrection story of Jesus, and the work of the Holy Spirit. In historical letters written to Portugal’s king and queen, the missionaries recount how the Kongo high court was fascinated with the Jesuit’s religion and adopted certain stories into their own belief systems.

The cross and the story of Jesus’s death and resurrection was integrated into the system of traditional Vodou lwa spirits and ancestor worship in the Kongo, which was then taken to Haiti by 16th-century African slaves. The Christian cross became a symbol for the crossroads, which represents life-altering choices and steps along the spiritual path for followers of Vodou in both its African and Haitian expressions to this day.

man carrying decorated cross during vodou ceremony
Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

6. True or false: it’s dangerous to attend a Vodou ceremony because you’ll get possessed

Answer: False!

One of non-initiates’ greatest fears when it comes to Vodou is being possessed by spirits against their will. While possession does take place at Vodou ceremonies, there is little danger that a spectator will be spontaneously “ridden” by the lwa.

For a vodouwizan, being possessed is like momentarily disappearing in order to become the physical vessel for a lwa. The actions and words of the possessed are believed to be the loa expressing itself, addressing others, advising or consoling, encouraging or scolding, punishing or healing through the Vodouwizan.

For practitioners of Vodou, there is nothing strange or special about possession. It can happen at any moment, and can last anywhere from a few minutes to hours or even days.

If this sounds scary, it’s helpful to remember that an immense amount of training, initiation, not to mention financial resources and sacred planning go into holding a Vodou ceremony. People are looking for answers to real problems around financial ruin, broken relationships, and discord. Each ceremony is held with a specific purpose or intention, and it would not be accomplished if the possessed chwal (or “horse”) wasn’t up to the task of the full participation required of their role.

For the same reason, it is exceedingly unlikely that a spectator at a Vodou dans (ceremony) would spontaneously be possessed. In fact, it is extremely rare for a non-initiate to be invited to participate in a major way in an important Vodou ceremony.

Experience Vodou on your visit to Haiti

Further reading 

For an accessible, illuminating read about Vodou, see Boukman Eksperyans songstress Mimirose Beaubrun’s Nan Domi – An initiate’s journey into Haitian Vodou.  Available in French and English.

For more about the vèvè cosmograms representing the lwa, see the fantastic illustrations and explanations found in a trilingual book by Milo Regaud, Ve-Ve Diagrammes Rituels du Voudou : Ritual Voodoo Diagrams : Blasones de los Vodu – Trilingual ed.Text in French, English, and Spanish.

Mama Lola: A Vodou Priestess in Brooklyn by anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown. Released in 1991, this book is credited with making great strides toward the destigmatisation of Haitian Vodou.

Afro-Caribbean Religions: An Introduction to Their Historical, Cultural, and Sacred Traditions, by Nathaniel Samuel Murrell. Includes 40 pages on Haitian Vodou.

*A quick word about the different spellings of Vodou: some scholars still use the spelling “voodoo;” however, Haitian Vodou initiates and supportive academics prefer alternate spellings such as Vodou, Vodon, Vodun or Vodu.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published June 2021


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Rum is big in Haiti. Here’s what to drink.

A woman makes rum cocktails while in a pool in Jacmel, Haiti
Poolside rum in Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

Rum is big in Haiti – Here’s what to drink

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While Barbadians are said to have invented modern rum…

…we think it’s the Haitians who perfected it. 

The precursors of rum date back to antiquity. Fermented drinks made from sugarcane juice are believed to have been developed first in ancient China or India before spreading from there.

The first modern rum was distilled in the sugarcane plantations of the Caribbean in the seventeenth century. Plantation slaves discovered that molasses, a by-product of the process of refining sugar from sugarcane, fermented into alcohol. While rum is said to have been invented in Barbados in the early 1600s, the first sugar mills in the Caribbean were established on Hispaniola in 1516, so the concept would have been able to quickly spread throughout what is now known as Haiti.

Here are five tipples to try while vacationing in Haiti.

01. Barbancourt

The classic. Haiti’s most popular rum has been distilled right here on the island for over 150 years, and earned a place in the hearts of Haitians that other brands can only dream of.

From high-end bars and fine-dining restaurants to neighborhood liquor stores, you’ll find Barbancourt everywhere. Barbancourt branding, as well as the drink itself, is splashed around at key cultural events in the capital and at patron saint festivals in the provinces.

Depending on the bar, you can sip up to four varieties of Barbancourt: a young, fresh white rum; the three-star 4yo; the five-star 8yo and the sought-after 15yo estate reserve. Rum connoisseurs rate the 8yo as best value-for-money.

Fancy a between-meals tipple on your private balcony or in your pool? Barbancourt is available at supermarkets, as well as specialty liquor stores such as La Bouteille.

02. Bakara

The second most popular rum in Haiti, Bakara is the drink of choice among Haiti’s younger crowd, not least due to its lower price point compared to Barbancourt. Backpackers on a budget: take note!

As well as being more wallet-friendly, Bakara’s range is more modern – and on the fruity side of things! The brand leans into Haiti’s natural bounty of tropical crops, with evocative Caribbean flavors such as grenadya (passionfruit), kanèl (cinnamon), and lanni (star Anise).

Bakara’s unflavoured standard range spans an 8yo, 12yo and an estate reserve.

It is worth noting that while Bakara is an Haitian brand, the distillery is over in the Domincan Republic, on the eastern half of the island of Hispaniola – though there are plans to start up production in Haiti itself.

03. Vieux Labbé

Produced and bottled in Haiti, Vieux Labbé has carved out a respectable niche for itself. The Vieux Labbé rums share part of their history with the Barbancourt name, but today we know them as standalone brands.

Vieux Labbé has under its wing: a young white rum; a three-star 3yo; a five-star 7yo; a signature blend and a complex 10yo.

04. Boukman

Boukman has made a name for itself in the United States as the first artisanal rhum agricole of its kind, boasting an exotic bouquet of West Indies spices.

What’s Rhum agricole? Unlike the majority of rums in the world, rhum agricole is distilled from fresh sugar cane juice rather than molasses. Starting its life as sugar grown in the cane fields outside Croix-des-Bouquets in Port-au-Prince and in Cap-Haïtien, Boukman boasts a whopping eleven different spices, barks and peels!

The best way to enjoy Boukman rum? Straight – with some ice and an orange twist, at most. If you don’t mind losing some of the complexity of the rum, Boukan is also a delicious way to spice up cocktails!

group of haitian men among a alcohol vendor
Kleren vendor in Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

05. Kleren

No visit to Haiti is complete without a sip of fiery kleren. Also spelled “clairin” by French- and English-speakers, kleren is a quintessentially Caribbean drink and Haiti is its heartland. While there are some 50 kleren distilleries dotted around the rest of the Caribbean, there are over 600 in Haiti alone.

Kleren is a type of rum, not a brand – in fact, it has never been commercially bottled. Instead, it’s made using traditional techniques at artisan distilleries, most of them tiny shacks sprinkled throughout the countryside, producing just enough for the local village.

Like Boukan, kleren is a rhum agricole: processed from sugar cane juice, not molasses, creating a strong, smooth, unmistakable taste – sharp, powerful, to the point.

Kleren is enjoyed in its pure, unaltered state, but you can find flavored varieties as well. When a root or leaf is added to kleren to soak and infuse, the finished product is called tranpe (Haitian Kreyol for “dipped” or “soaked”).

Kleren is a vital element of Haitian culture and you’ll see it for sale by the roadside in gallon bottles. To try kleren for yourself, though, we recommend you visit a neighborhood liquor store – they tend to offer a range to choose from, and smaller bottles.

bottles with pre-mixed haitian cocktails
Ready-to-drink cocktails from MyaBèl
Photo: MyaBèl

06. Bonus: MyaBèl

In 2012 MyaBèl, an emerging Haitian brand, launched its own ready-to-drink cocktails.

There are currently three cocktails on offer in gorgeous packaging: Tomazo, which is rum, coconut and almond-based; Boukan Bou, which features rum, wild mint and star anise; and La Rat, which is vodka-based rather than rum-based and flavoured with grapefruit and Haitian blackberry.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2019


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Fiercely independent – Haiti has attitude

Black and white portrait photograph of an old Haitian woman

Fiercely independent: Haiti has attitude

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18th century Haiti, or Hispaniola as it was named then. It’s a colony of France, and it’s the most prosperous and fruitful colony in the entire Caribbean, supplying France and Europe with coffee, sugar and many other goods – harvested and produced with slave labor.

For slaves, days have no end; they begin and end each day’s labor in the torture of knowing they are and forever will be slaves. Across the island, things are getting tense. Revolution is brewing.

From centuries of slavery has come a kind of fire – slow-burning, but extremely intense – and it lives in the stomach of every single slave on the island; man, woman and child. Risking life and limb, oppressed Haitians hold hushed meetings, organise illicit nighttime reunions, and some escape to the mountains.

People gather around for a Vodou ceremony inside a Haitian Vodou temple in Petavie
Vodou ceremony at Ti Papa’s vodou temple in Petavie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Vodou visions of freedom

On the night of August 14, 1791, at Bois Caïman, one event pulls on the last thread holding colonial rule together. A Vodou ceremony gives birth to a concrete plan that will irrevocably change life on the island. In a spirit of revolution, of community, and of kinship, the slaves who reunited that night catalyzed an insurrection that spanned several days. The Northern Plain was set ablaze, and freed slaves retaliated against their former slave owners.

This was the seed of the Haitian revolution that culminated in 1804, with slave rebels taking their freedom once and for all.

Haiti is the only place in the Caribbean where an enslaved class successfully fought off and ousted their oppressors. This victory would not have been possible without the determination, community, and the will to try and fail and try again. And the spirit that enabled Haitians to fight for their birthright of freedom is still alive today.

If everything you know about Haiti so far has come from news reports, you’re missing so much of the picture. While the 2010 earthquake was truly disastrous, and Haiti’s young democracy still has its troubles, the average Haitian’s reality is very different.

Four young fishermen in Baradères, Haiti
Fishermen in Baradères
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

“Here, the early bird gets the coffee”

Take a stroll anywhere in Port-au-Prince, or even in Jacmel, or Cap-Haïtien. Haitians rise with the sun – because they know that every day is a new chance to do better than they did the day before. Here, the early bird gets the worm, the coffee, and the morning laughs around the merchant serving up bananas and boiled eggs.

You’ll see Haitians eating breakfast on their front porch, in front of their office, or on the tap tap – there is no rest for the driven.

Under the harsh morning sun, bare-chested young men pull giant makeshift wooden wheelbarrows loaded with bags of charcoal. The muscles in their arms and chest strain as they push tirelessly – there’s only one way to stop, and that’s to get to where they’re going.

Midday. It’s time for lunch for most – or for the second shift, job, or side-hustle. The fire that lit up the revolution of 1804 is still alive, pushing people to survive and thrive. There are better days ahead, but we have to live to see them.

“A testament to the power of overcoming the unknown”

For Haitians, this isn’t just a daily mantra, it’s a year-round mindset that feeds into the ebbs and flows of island life. Perhaps the best illustration of this is the annual carnival season.

For many Haitians, the turn of the year is associated with financial difficulties and cloudy horizons. “We know what we have, but not what’s out there.” Carnival, which spans the months of February and March, is a testament to the power of overcoming the unknown.

Passion comes through everything Haitians do. It’s in the young men selling water in the streets. It’s in the late night laughter of people sitting at a bar by the side of the street. It’s in the mornings, noons, and nights of hustlers, of move-makers, of mothers leading households on their own, of families in the provinces, and of spirits young and old.

Haiti speaks purpose; do you?


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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