hiking

Explore the enchanting ruins of Fort Saint-Louis

March 9, 2019 by admin

Tree roots growing down into the ruined passages of Fort des Anglais, Haiti — Fort Saint-Louis, Haiti
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore the enchanting ruins of Fort Saint-Louis

A microcosm of Haitian history

The overgrown ruins of this 300 year-old French-built fort will enchant visitors for hours (and archaeologists for days), but to get there you’ll need to hire a boat.

Fort Saint-Louis stands on an islet in the Bay of St Louis, and is accessible via a short boat ride from Fort de Olivier, a fortress on the nearby peninsula of Saint Louis du Sud. Constructed at the same time, these two forts are often called ‘sisters,’ and are two of many strategically dotted along the coastline.

Just outside the seaside fortress, an abandoned shipwreck peeks up from underwater. For locals, this shipwreck is a microcosm of Haitian history. Across the country, relics of more dangerous times dot the landscape, their defences now serving to preserve cultural memories instead of material treasure, and changing over time as the years and the tropical storms assert their strength.

Aerial photo of shipwreck at Fort des Anglais, Haiti — Abandoned shipwreck at Fort Saint-Louis
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The extensive ruins of modern-day Fort Saint-Louis rise steeply from a craggy islet, the curtain wall of stone now thickly overgrown with vines and trees that blow in the tropic coastal breeze. After three hundred years of equatorial sunshine, sea salt and hurricanes, the outline of the fort is in remarkably good condition, and it’s still possible to walk through its many chambers and admire the original carved features set into the outer walls. You can still walk through some of the caves originally networked into the fortress.

Walking under the arches of the structure of the fort with branches and lianas hanging left and right feels surreal; it is almost as though you are one of the shift guards, waiting for the British to invade at any moment. Although severely weathered, the fort feels as towering and as imposing as it must have been three centuries ago.

Fort Saint-Louis
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Built in 1702 by French occupiers, Fort Saint-Louis was designed to defend the Haitian territory against their colonial competitors – namely the British Empire. In 1748, less than fifty years later, the was captured by the British. As a result, it’s now known as Fort des Anglais by many locals.

The southern coastline of Haiti was hotly contested in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as a foothold from which to defend the country’s riches. Although modern Haiti is known for its pristine beaches, colonial-era Haiti made a name for itself in European cities through the high-quality goods brought back by traders returning from its shores. Fort Saint-Louis was built just five years after the French and Spanish divided up the island of Hispaniola into two separate countries – Dominican Republic on the East and Haiti on the West.

Person stands on the bow of a boat to Fort des Anglais, Haiti — Boat to Fort Saint-Louis
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

Fort des Oliviers is located on a small peninsula in Saint Louis du Sud. From there, Fort Saint-Louis is on a small island a short boat ride away. For a small fee, the local sailors offer their boats – and often times, dugout canoes – as a mode of transportation.

Get the most out of your visit

Tour guides, who often live nearby in Saint Louis du Sud, or in the areas surrounding Fort des Oliviers, are always ready to provide their services by accompanying visitors and talking them through the history of the fort and the features that have stood the test of time.

Today, Fort Saint-Louis stands as a testament to a period in time and a state of mind that permeate the way modern Haitians understand and process their history.

Walking through the fort with someone who lives the complexity of that history is the best way to gain a nuanced understanding of what this beautiful ruin means.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published March 2019

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Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

December 5, 2018 by Editor

Clouds gathering over the peak of Pic La Selle, Haiti — Clouds gathering over Pic La Selle
Photo: Anton Lau

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

This Kreyòl proverb means “Behind mountains, there are more mountains.” Hispaniola is one of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, and Pic La Selle is Haiti’s highest peak.

Part of the La Selle mountain range – which also extends into the Dominican Republic – Pic La Selle is over 8,700 feet, making it the highest mountain peak in Haiti, and the third highest in the Caribbean. If you’re the adventurous type, the La Selle range should be on your radar. A single-day climb affords panoramic views over the island of Hispaniola and out across the Caribbean.

Located in the south-east of the West department of Haiti, La Selle is accessible via the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquets, but also via the small town of Marigot, less than an hour’s drive from Jacmel. From there, the road gets rough, so it’s strongly recommended that you head to Pic La Selle with a 4-by-4.

The roads in Haiti, especially the mountainous ones, can be arduous, and if it is your first time going to Pic La Selle, it’s recommended that you hire a driver or at least a guide who knows the twists and turns in the road. Luckily, you’ll find guides who specialise in guiding hikes from city to summit.

Is the journey more important to you than the destination? You might prefer to hike or drive through the La Selle mountains via Furcy. This scenic route is lusher and the peaks and valleys more dramatic, and will appeal to nature-lovers who don’t necessarily want to scale Pic La Selle itself. Again, your best bet is to have someone on your team who has been before, or to make friends with a local. You can even arrange a guided tour on horseback.

Hiking through the dry coniferous forest, you’ll come to appreciate the saying “Dèyè mòn, gen mòn.” The mountains fold and unfold in front of you, seemingly to no end. Depending on the weather, they may be lanced with tufts of clouds, weaving between them.

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over the borderlands between Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic. This area is part of the expansive Transboundary La Selle-Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, a protected region showcasing the rich biodiversity shared between the two nations.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

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Explore Haitian Nature at Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve

November 1, 2018 by Editor

Group of students eating lunch at a farm in Haiti — Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Haitian Nature at Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve

Tucked into the foothills of the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range, Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve is a successful sustainability initiative where visitors can get up close and personal with nature in Haiti.

The surrounding township of Kenscoff is located an impressive 6000 feet above sea level – that’s the same elevation as Ethiopia’s coffee farms! This altitude has created unique challenges for the local farmers who live in these foothills, and farming techniques imported from eighteenth-century Europe have not provided sustainable solutions to those challenges. As is the case across Europe, Australia and the Americas, the natural abundance of the Kenscoff region found itself losing the battle against erosion and deforestation.

Striving for sustainable solutions

At least, that was, until the 1950s, when Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve was established to explore innovative agricultural techniques capable of adapting to the unique conditions. An American civil engineer named Victor Ainsley Wynne oversaw the early days of the Farm, stitched together 30 acres out of a patchwork of smaller plots of farmland purchased from local farmers.

Together with a crew of 40 dedicated men, Wynne used this new wide open space to preserve and proliferate several species indigenous to the Haitian landscape, and planted alongside them many new breeds of trees, fruits and vegetables imported from around the world.

Wynne Farm in Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Now a nature reserve

In recent decades Wynne Farm has evolved into the Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve, signalling a strong intention to protect this much-needed public green space into the future. Haitians are increasingly seeing the value of protected spaces, and visiting this Reserve affords an excellent opportunity to see an early example and encourage more protection of Haiti’s natural heritage.

Get involved

As such, Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve is a national focal point for environmental education, and offers a variety of ways to get involved. Guests can volunteer and participate in local afforestation projects by planting trees, or overload on cuteness at the animal sanctuary. You won’t find any wildlife living in captivity here – instead, you can get up close with the domesticated animals that live and work on Wynne Farm. You can even go horse-riding.

One of the few ways to go horse-riding in haiti, this activity is adapted to suit your level. While everyone has to pay for initial supervised classes to get comfortable with the horses, experienced rider are then allowed to strike out on their own. It’s best to book ahead of time to ensure you’ll have a horse when you get there, but as long as a suitable horse is free it’s easy to sign up on the day.

To get more out of a visit to Wynne Farm, guests can stay on site in comfortable accommodation. It’s worth it if only for the luxury of that first-thing-in-the-morning sip of hot coffee in the crisp mountain air. You can overnight in your own tent, a rented tent, or in a cabin.

Man carries flowers along green path at a farm — Wynne Farm in Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Support sustainable farming

If you’d like to see more ecological reserves on Haiti, you can support Wynne Farm by making a donation. You can donate directly at the reserve, but you can also buy a membership in advance, guaranteeing free entrance when you visit. Membership is available for adults and children, in Bronze, Silver, Gold, and Platinum levels. Wynne Farm also gives visitors the opportunity to donate and financially support local farmers.

A small, fun and instantly gratifying way to donate is to pay $5 to plant a tree at the farm!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

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Hike to Historic Fort Jacques

October 16, 2018 by Editor

view of an old fortress on a mountain top surrounded by pine trees — View of Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Hike to historic Fort Jacques

Tucked away high in the dense mountains of Haiti is Fort Jacques – one of the country’s oldest and best preserved forts.

Early mornings at Fort Jacques are a peaceful escape from the busy island of Haiti, and are an easy way to get out of the city without having to head to the provinces. While the forest is still waking up, you’ll be surrounded by the songs of exotic birds – many endemic to the island – as well as the rustling and conversation of merchants setting up shop. At the end of your hike, sitting at a picnic table in the middle of the mountain wilderness, you’ll see why a trip to Fort Jacques – one of the cheapest things to do in Haiti – is also one of the best.

Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Defending Haiti’s Independence

After Haiti gained its independence in 1804, most people were busy celebrating. Their newfound freedom from colonial rule was a powerful cultural moment for Haitians in the same way that independence from British rule was for Americans, and continues to be just as important to this day.

With celebrations still underway, Alexandre Pétion – the Division General of the Haitian military – foresaw that the colonizers might not let Haitians enjoy their freedom for too long. As a way to prevent the French returning to seize control of the island again, Pétion oversaw the construction of two forts: Fort Alexandre and Fort Jacques.

While Fort Alexandre was named for Pétion himself, Fort Jacques takes its name from Jean-Jacques Dessalines, who was then the emperor of Haiti. Construction work was complete within a year; Pétion wasted no time making sure that Haiti was ready to fend off would-be conquerors.

The location of Fort Jacques was not left to chance. From the battlements, one can look out over the entire bay of Port-au-Prince, giving defenders advanced warning of any naval attacks. Today, centuries after construction, Fort Jacques stands as a point of reference for the locals and tourists who venture into these parts of the mountain. The fort still houses some of the cannons that were designated to defend Haiti’s independence.

These days, the fortress is much more than a monument to more dangerous times, and a visit to Fort-Jacques offers an escape to peaceful green spaces. The path that leads up to the fort is flanked by the soccer field of a nearby school to the left, and on the right, trees so dense that it’s hard to see through them.

Exterior of Fort Jacques, Haiti — Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

The best way to enjoy what Fort Jacques has to offer is to wake up a little earlier than usual one morning, lace your running or hiking shoes up, pack a bite to eat for breakfast, and drive up to the Fermathe church, or take a bus that will drop you there. If you are in Pétion-Ville, Fermathe is only a thirty- or forty-minute car ride away. Don’t forget to pack a sweater!

From Fermathe, the challenge – and real fun, begins. The road is paved, making the walk up to the fort an enjoyable hike. In the morning, the sun’s rays are still soft, and the hike is pleasant. You can take your time and sample some of the market goods on the way to the fort.

The road is lined with merchants selling street food, whose kitchens are either housed in a little strip of small houses, or, as you get closer to the fort’s entrance, out in the open. If something a little fancier is what you crave, stop in at Fort Jacques Bakery. Past the liquor and snack sellers, a cobblestone path continues to the fort, and the food traders give way to local artisans often come to show off their arts and crafts.

Behind the fort, the forest is decked in picnic tables shaded by tall trees. Because this is all open to the public, Fort Jacques is a popular destination among local young adults and teenagers as well as tourists: it is an open space, with seating available, out in the middle of nature. During the summer and winter breaks, it’s common to find young adults sitting at the tables, listening to music together and enjoying a good time.

Two people seen through a dark tunnel at Fort Jacques, Haiti — Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Get the most out of your visit

Because there’s no designated tour guide team to show you around Fort Jacques, you’ll run into would-be guides who will hustle (sometimes aggressively) for the chance to show you around – for a foreigner price. For some visitors, this can be a challenging situation to navigate.

You’ll be more comfortable if you head to Fort Jacques with an experienced local from the start. This way, the guided tour isn’t as expensive, and there is a better chance of grasping the tour guide’s explanation of what’s going on.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

October 16, 2018 by Editor

Fort des Oliviers, Haiti, seen from off the coast — Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

The gorgeous bay of Saint Louis is home to one of the most famous relics of Haiti’s colonial past.

On a rocky peninsula just a short walk from Saint Louis du Sud, Fort des Oliviers dates back to the start of the eighteenth century.

A glimpse of the past

As you walk past cannons propped on stones, your mind will wander back to the time of double-breasted military uniforms and rifles. Staircases ascend and descend to the upper and interior levels of the fort – or the parts of it that have been preserved despite the elements. Wandering up the stairs, under archways and around the ancient artillery allows you to glimpse the experience of construction workers – both French and Haitian, who – more than three hundred years ago – put each of these stones into place.

Exploring the ruins of Fort des Oliviers, visitors can get a sense for the colonial era in which it was built. Three centuries have suffused the weathered walls of the fort with character. The stone has been softened and polished by the salt air and waves. Fort des Oliviers is as much a product of the coastal landscape as it is of those who built it.

If you are looking to deepen your understanding of Haiti’s colonial history, a visit to Fort des Oliviers is absolutely in order!

Palm trees on the way to Fort des Oliviers, Haiti — Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Franck Fontain

Steeped in history

Built in 1702, Fort des Oliviers was built by French occupiers to defend the Haitian territory against their colonial competitors – namely the British Empire. Unfortunately for the French, the British did indeed take over Fort des Oliviers about fifty years later, and established it as a pit-stop port for British ships to rest and refuel their crews.

The southern coastline of Haiti was hotly contested in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as a foothold from which to defend the country’s riches. Although modern Haiti is known for its pristine beaches, colonial-era Haiti made a name for itself in European cities through the high-quality goods brought back by traders returning from its shores. Fort des Oliviers was built just a few years after the French and Spanish divided up the island of Hispaniola into two separate countries – Dominica on the East and Haiti on the West.

The living heritage of relics like Fort des Oliviers make it impossible to separate the insistent natural beauty of the landscape from the history that has shaped modern Haiti as a living, breathing organism. This sense of identity and purpose is what drives the carnival attitude and lust for life that sets Haiti apart as one of the best places to visit in the Caribbean.

If you’re thirsty for more adventure, you’ll find another old fortress on an islet in the bay visible from Fort des Oliviers. This is Fort Saint-Louis, constructed at the same time as Fort des Oliviers. The islet is also home to an abandoned shipwreck famous among locals.

Fort Saint-Louis is accessible via a short boat ride from the coast.

Getting there

Fort des Oliviers is a short walk from the township of Saint-Louis-du-Sud. While you’re in town, get directions to the highway side market and sample some of the famous street food. If you only try one thing, look for the lady selling Lam Veritab Fri (fried breadfruit). Although on the plate fried breadfruit looks a lot like fried plantain, you’ll notice the texture is very different. A starchy relative of the jackfruit, breadfruit is delicious, and this lady makes some of the best in all Haiti. Best served piled high with a serving of spicy pikliz.

From the western edge of town, you can walk along the waterline, and over the palm-shaded peninsula that leads to the fort. The upper level features areas that are open and level enough to sit and enjoy a picnic and a peaceful moment spent disconnecting from city life. A stone’s throw away is a beach for you to sit back, relax and dip your toes in the bay of Saint of Louis.

You’ll find local tour guides happy to lead you through Fort des Oliviers – for a small fee. Getting a fuller understanding of the reasons why Haiti’s southern coast was often caught in a tug-of-war is one of the best ways to sharpen your appreciation of all the things the island has to offer.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

October 15, 2018 by Editor

Aerial view of the waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

A 40 minute drive out of the western city of Les Cayes, the waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June, but this is also when the road to get there is at its most – lets say adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon river that feeds Saut Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January – Haiti’s driest month- it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible – the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, full of exotic bird song blending in with the sound of the waterfall.

On the accessible side, there’s a cobblestone ledge to make it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim and is considered better even than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice cold, but on sunny days (practically all!) It’s worth it! A few hours is in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A climb up a side track leads to the top of the waterfall from where you have a wonderful view and access to some natural pools.

Les Cayes is one of the cities the most travellers don’t reach – Jacmel or Saint-Louis-du-Sud are closer to Port-au-Prince. If you manage to make it as far west as Les Cayes, make it a point to visit Saut Mathurine.

Waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine waterfall, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Getting there

Saut Mathurine is off the beaten path for most travellers – quite literally. The road is unpaved and you’ll need a 4×4 to get there, but it’s worth the bumpy ride. You can hire 4×4 vehicles in Les Cayes. If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well. If you enjoy driving off-road though, getting there is an absolute adventure.

Access to the waterfall is via a park entrance – a gap in the wall with a small office to the side. The entrance fee for travellers is 100 Haitian gourdes. Inside the walls, there’s much more to discover than the waterfall itself – you can walk along the riverside and around steps carved into or laid around the otherwise wild jungle. There is a boutique selling local crafts and a restaurant on site.

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hiking

Explore the enchanting ruins of Fort Saint-Louis

A microcosm of Haitian history

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

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The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

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Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

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Explore Haitian Nature at Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve

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Hike to historic Fort Jacques

Tucked away high in the dense mountains of Haiti is Fort Jacques – one of the country’s oldest and best preserved forts.

Defending Haiti’s Independence

From Our Land to Your Home

Getting there

start your day the Haitian way

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Find Fort Jacques

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Explore more of Haiti’s history

Paradise for your inbox

Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

The gorgeous bay of Saint Louis is home to one of the most famous relics of Haiti’s colonial past.

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

A glimpse of the past

Steeped in history

start your day the Haitian way

Getting there

Find Fort des Oliviers

External Links

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Explore more of Haiti’s history

Paradise for your inbox

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

start your day the Haitian way

Getting there

Find Saut-Mathurine

External Links

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Looking for some cool things to discover?

Paradise for your inbox

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a touch of
haitian wisdom

start your day
the Haitian way

A Visual Guide to
Vodou Symbols

start your day
the Haitian way

Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

start your day
the Haitian way