Haitian cuisine

Where to find great coffee in Haiti

June 12, 2019 by admin

Raymond les Bains

May 10, 2019 by admin

haitians relaxing and dining at table with parasols by beach — Raymond les Bains, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Raymond les Bains

Just a few hours’ south of Port-au-Prince, the colorful city of Jacmel is best known for its beautiful, expansive beaches. Raymond les Bains is a local favorite, and an attraction not to be missed if you’re in Jacmel. You’ll find a mile-long stretch of soft white sand, framed by palm trees and mountains in the distance.

Like most of the beaches lining Haiti’s stunning southern coast, Raymond les Bains has a nice, gradual slope into the water and soft, smooth sand. On bright, sunny days (Jacmel sees 230 a year) Raymond les Bains is a textbook example of a Caribbean paradise.

Raymond les Bains is also a popular night time attraction. There is a lot more music, more to drink, and the atmosphere is much more fit for dancing and meeting new people! If you are lucky, you might even catch a full moon reflected on the Caribbean Sea.

Don’t miss: the freshly-grilled fish

For seafood lovers, the highlight of Raymond les Bains might be the food. Grilled fish is a local specialty and the menu is teeming with options.

To order, visitors can take a seat at any table on the beach. Expect to be approached by merchants selling all sorts – gum, drinks, snacks, jewellery – but keep an eye for the waiter or waitress at the restaurant. Our top tip is to ask to see the fish before you settle on your order; different price points get you different fish; and even at a specific price point, you still get to pick from a variety of fish.

You can ask if there is a choice of accompaniment for the fish; most places offer the standard fried plantains or fried potatoes. Depending on the season, you might even find fried breadfruit – a Caribbean delicacy not to be missed. This fried tropical staple provides a crisp, savory contrast to mouth-watering freshly-grilled fish, elevating what sounds like a simple, everyday dish to a memorable island experience.

Getting there

8 miles east of downtown Jacmel, Raymond les Bains is en route to Cayes-Jacmel and Marigot.

Look out for the “Bienvenue à Raymond les Bains” signage on the right side of the road. From there, the road dips and narrows down a sandy path flanked by small houses on the left, and the sound of slow waves crashing on the beach on the right. Continue on until you reach the gate – and gatekeepers.

Because it is a public beach cleaned and maintained by the locals, Raymond les Bains is gated, and does require a small fee to enter. Expect to pay at least 100 HTG per car. Once that is taken care of, you will be asked to enter and park your car off to the side.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2019

Find Raymond les Bains

Explore the south of Haiti

Gelée Beach

December 27, 2018 by Editor

Gelée Beach

Situated in the heart of the Caribbean, between Cuba and the Dominican Republic, Haiti has over a thousand miles of coastline with dozens of destination-worthy beaches.

We’re talking white sand and turquoise water swelling up to coconut palms, chalk cliffs or jungle-clad mountains rolling off into the distance. Whether you choose one of the island’s most treasured coves or one of its many undiscovered wonders, the water here is warm all year round.

Gelée Beach

Located near Les Cayes in southern Haiti, Gelée Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Haiti. Highlights including the beachside fritay merchants and the chance to see cows grazing in fields that reach almost to the water’s edge. Compared to other popular beaches in Haiti, the surrounds are flat and open. Pastoral scenery notwithstanding, the water is tropical and the swimming here is lush.

The beach itself winds around the southern coastline for miles, with soft, pillowy sand melting into some of the most crystal clear waters you’ll find anywhere on the island – or in the Caribbean, for that matter.

Grab a bite

Colorful shacks of food vendors dot the treeline. The number of them is a testament to how popular Gelee beach is and how good the seafood is here. If you’ve already tried Haitian cuisine in Port-au-Prince, you’ll be familiar with the fried plantains and meat – typically called fritay, but don’t miss the chance to try the locally-caught seafood.

If you find the queues for the beachside food overwhelming, you’ll find a choice of restaurants and hotels a short drive from the beach.

At night, Gelée transforms into a lively, well-lit destination for dinner by the shore. The broad boulevard fills with music and foot traffic. People flock to the beach for Gelée’s specialty – grilled fish with fried plantains. Avoid a long wait by going with a local who can walk right up to their vendor of choice and order the right way.

Watch our video of the twoubadou band Tet Ansanm Twouba from Gelée Beach.

Getting there

Gelée beach is a twenty minute drive from downtown Les Cayes. As city gives way to surf, the road gives way to a sandy dirt track. Park off Route de Gelee and walk through the main entrance to the beach – the one closest to the bars and music – to be welcomed by the most picturesque view of the beach.

When to go

Every year, on August 15, the residents of Les Cayes celebrate Patron Saint festival of Our Lady of the Assumption. Thousands of people from all parts of Haiti and from the diaspora come to Les Cayes to participate in the festivities. If August 15 falls on a Friday, some extend their stay to the whole weekend.

During the festival, music can be heard from every rooftop, sidewalk, and front door of the city. There are plenty of activities for kids, and the highlight is the kite building and flying contest in Gelée, where adults and children come together. Kite-flying is hugely popular in Haiti, and has an entire season dedicated to it: kite season!

For a vibrant slice of Haitian summer life, August 15 is the perfect time to visit Gelée and Les Cayes.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

Find Gelée Beach

External Links

Haiti’s Best Beaches & Islands

Soup Joumou – the taste of freedom

December 2, 2018 by Editor

A bowl of soup joumou on a serving tray — Soup Joumou
Photo: Anton Lau

Soup Joumou – the taste of freedom

This once-forbidden stew now symbolises independence.

What is soup joumou?

Soup Joumou is a delicious and aromatic dish with a dense history, dating back to when it was a favourite of French slave-owners in eighteenth-century Haiti.

Joumou is the Kreyòl word derived from giraumon in French, which means “pumpkin,” in English. If you’re an avid fall cook, you might see joumou varietal pumpkins at some specialty supermarkets in the United States. They’re easy to spot at Haiti’s sprawling farmers’ markets.

To make soup joumou, two to three joumou are diced into sizeable chunks, and cooked in hot water until they are tender. While this happens, some meat is usually prepared to go with it: beef or pork, depending on what is available in the area. Once the joumou is tender, it is chucked into a blender with some of its cooking water and blended to a soft, silky consistency.

It all goes back into the pot over a low heat setting, and is joined by carrot chunks, potato cubes, cabbage quarters, pasta, and the prepared meat.

This simmers for a while, until the pasta is tender. Some people add dumplings at this point as well. After adding zesty, spicy seasoning, it’s ladled into a large serving bowl, which will sit at the center of a dining table with fresh bread from the local bakery, awaiting Sunday fast-breakers.

You’ll also find it as a centrepiece of New Year’s Day celebrations.

Why is soup joumou so special?

In 19th century Haiti, living conditions for slaves were unspeakably awful. As elsewhere in the world, they were treated brutally, kept enslaved by a combination of gruesome physical treatment and psychological abuse. Slavemasters denied these people as much as possible, even seemingly trivial things, especially if those things were associated with the lifestyle of Haiti’s white, slave-owning bourgeoise.

One tradition that was well established within the bourgeoisie was that of having soup joumou. Some households could afford to make it several times a week, others only on Sundays, but a bowl of soup joumou was never to be seen in the hands of a slave. This food was not intended for them, as it was too rich, too wholesome, too good.

In the first years of the 19th century, slaves and free black Haitians led a successful revolution, taking control of the country and instating their own language, their own institutions, and their own customs. As a potent symbol of the abundance that had been denied them for hundreds of years, the newly free population appropriated the food most symbolic of freedom: soup joumou.

Independence was officially declared on January 1st, 1804. To celebrate that first New Year’s Day, the people of Haiti prepared, cooked, and shared soup joumou. A delicacy previously forbidden, it was now made available to everyone. More than two hundred years later, the tradition is still going strong.

If you’re in Haiti on a Sunday, and especially if you’re here on New Year’s Day, make sure you try a bowl of soup joumou. You might find it at a hotel or served hot by a street vendor, but the best soup joumou is home-made – so make some friends.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

Our recommendations

Delicious Haitian Fruits & Veggies Not to Miss This Winter

November 21, 2018 by Editor

Fresh cherries on display at a market in Haiti — Haitian Cherries
Photo: Franck Fontain

Fresh and Local: Delicious Haitian Fruits & Veggies Not to Miss This Winter

Flying to Haiti in December? You’re in for a treat.

Here’s our guide to the quintessential Haitian fruits and vegetables that are in season at the turn of the year.

Island ingredients

Haiti’s pristine white sand beaches and turquoise blue coves make it a compelling destination for summer holidays, but the year’s end is one of the best times to be here. In December, Christmas activities, patron saint festivals, and seasonal produce abound! Because of its tropical climate, Haiti benefits from a diverse seasonality of produce, and the months of September to December are a great time to do the foodie tour of Haiti.

Before we begin, it is important to note that while this produce is available at supermarkets in Haiti, you will get the most bang for your buck – and a more worthwhile experience – bartering with street vendors at one of the many marchés (street markets).

Now, let’s get stuck in!

01. Avocados

There is nothing quite like a thick, creamy slice of avocado alongside some white rice and black beans – as you will learn soon after arriving to Haiti. Avocados are easily found everywhere on the island, in some places for as little as 25 HTG, or about 35 US cents. Make sure to stock up!

Fresh beetroots on display at a market in Haiti — Beetroots
Photo: Franck Fontain

02. Beetroot

Bright, bold, sweet and crisp, this delightful root vegetable is in season around December and very popular in Haitian cuisine! Salade Russe is one of the most popular side dishes featuring beetroot, often featured next to diri kole or diri djondjon – your host will be more than happy to show you how it’s made!

03. Cherries

Haiti produces a variety of cherry which, while tart when tasted alone, makes one of the most delicious and refreshing juices the island has to offer. The cherries are rinsed and blended with water, pits and all. The juice is then poured through a fine mesh strainer into a clean pot before being diluted and sweetened – making for the perfect end-of-year refreshment, best enjoyed under the sun!

Basket of fresh grapefruits for sale at a produce market in Haiti — Grapefruit
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Grapefruit

Coming in close second – sometimes a little bit too close – to orange juice as Haiti’s favorite juice, grapefruit is one of the more popular fruits in season in December. Most people drink the juice, but you’ll also find it on your plate as a garnish, or grilled for breakfast.

Basket of fresh green oranges at a market — Oranges
Photo: Franck Fontain

05. Oranges

As sweet as they come! Oranges are a fan favorite in Haiti, mostly used in freshly-squeezed juice. Locals will tell you though, that the sweetest oranges are from the city of Cap-Haïtien, up North. If you ever happen to be in the area, make sure you get your hands on some!

Fried plantains on display at a street food stall in Haiti — Fried plantains
Photo: Franck Fontain

06. Plantains

In Haiti, no meal – especially not a Sunday meal – is complete without fried plantains. December is the season of family dinners, and as such, requires a lot of fried plantains – savory and sweet. These little golden pucks of pleasure are best enjoyed hot, with some fresh pikliz on top!

Fried plantains also feature in our guide to the Haitian street food you have to try, according to a Jacmel local.

Person holding a handful of pigeon peas — Pigeon Peas
Photo: Franck Fontain

07. Pigeon peas

You will hear people call them pwa kongo – almost always cooked up as a gravy accompaniment to white rice, pigeon peas are a Sunday dinner favorite – their distinct flavor cuts through the soft, tender white rice, and depending on where you’re eating, can complement some griyo, some fried chicken, or fish fillet!

Fresh pumpkins for sale at a market — Pumpkins
Photo: Franck Fontain

08. Pumpkin (joumou)

This is the star of soup joumou, on Haitian dining tables around the country every Sunday, and even more so every January 1 – when Haitians celebrate independence day.

Once cooked, its tough, hard outer shell houses a soft, delicious and incredibly tender flesh – which is blended down with water and spices, and stewed with meat, root vegetables, and pasta to make for a hearty breakfast soup.

Basket piled high with sugar apples — Sugar apples
Photo: Franck Fontain

09. Sugar apple

For those who are looking to explore different taste and flavor horizons, Haiti is a land ripe in sugar apples, especially towards the end of the year. The sweet and creamy fruit is a prized ingredient in juices and even in ice cream!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

Top things to see in Haiti

Passion Fruit & Poisson Gros Sel: The Haitian Cuisine

November 16, 2018 by Editor

Fried shrimps in a cast iron skillet at the Habitation Turpin restaurant, Petion-Ville, Haiti — Fried shrimps at Habitation Turpin, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

Passion Fruit & Poisson Gros Sel: The Haitian Cuisine

Haiti has a bright and vivid culture, and there is no place where it is reflected more boldly than in Haitian cuisine.

One of the best ways to get to know a country is through local cuisine. You’ll find out who cooks, what they like, where they came from, and what they value the most in their day-to-day life.

Port-au-Prince offers incredible culinary diversity. While signature Haitian dishes have variations throughout the country, the convergence of people from every city means you can find (almost) everything in Port-au-Prince.

The capital city’s culinary richness is built on a whole island worth of food culture, and most of the dishes you sample in Port-au-Prince feature ingredients grown right here in Haiti.

Woman making pikliz at a market in Jacmel, Haiti — Street vendor making pikliz, Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

There is no pikliz quite like the one made with local onions from the south of the country; ti joslin tomatoes, grown right here in Haiti, bring a special kind of sweetness to a salad; and is a plate of diri kole really complete without fresh watercress from the mountains of Fermathe?

While brand-name foods are imported to the island, the variety of local food is quite impressive. Haitians plant, grow, and eat a huge variety of produce!

The best way to get acquainted with the wide range of flavors available in the Haitian pantry is to check out your local farmer’s market.

The yellow and blue exterior of Gingerbread Restaurant in Pacot, Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Gingerbread Restaurant, Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to find Haitian cuisine

Looking for a true introduction to Haitian cuisine? Port-au-Prince houses the best names in the business, such as La Coquille, La Réserve, and Presse Café in Pétion-Ville, Gingerbread in Pacot, or La Plaza in downtown Port-au-Prince. These restaurants are great places to sample typical Haitian cuisine. For a special treat, Le Florville in Kenscoff has a popular Sunday brunch. It’s a great way to enjoy a relaxed Haitian dining experience.

For some of Haiti’s famous seafood, head to Océane and Coin des Artistes in Pétion-Ville. Their produce is almost entirely locally sourced, and it’s great to know you’re supporting local fishermen. Coin des Artistes hosts live music performances throughout the week, and the home-grown beats are a great accompaniment to their delicious dishes!

Piles of colorful fresh produce at a market in Fermathe, Haiti — Fresh produce at market in Fermathe
Photo: Franck Fontain

Flavour staples and seasonal produce

Carrots, onions, tomatoes, eggplants, chayotes – more commonly known here as militon –, and any and all beans under the Haitian sun are readily available country-wide, and depending on when you’re here, there’s usually a bounty of fruit and veg in season. Iceberg lettuce is the most widely available lettuce in Haiti, from farmers’ markets to supermarkets; green leaf lettuce is more widely available in supermarkets, as it is grown in greenhouses in the hills of Fermathe.

If you have more of a sweet tooth, you’ll be thrilled to find out that Haiti delivers here as well! Haitian bananas are a breakfast staple, and one of the sweetest in the entire Caribbean – they come in two varieties: the normal, standard banana and a smaller, finger-sized variety called ti malis. Citrus fruits are also a big part of Haitian cuisine – everything from passionfruit to green limes can be turned into a juice or a scrumptious dessert. Sweet potatoes find their way into desserts such as pen patat, and cashews from the city of Cap-Haïtien are turned into delicious candied bars, known as tablèt nwa.

If you would like to see and taste for yourself, Port-au-Prince is chock-full of offerings for everything you could crave!

Haitian fisherman with his catch in a traditional boat near Pestel, Haiti — Fisherman, Pestel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Trade winds

Even in the Caribbean, though, produce does go in and out of season. So where do restaurants turn when a key ingredient can’t be sourced locally?

Supermarkets are stocked with preserves and brand-name items from around the island and around the world. When oranges aren’t in season in Haiti, you’ll still find freshly squeezed OJ – it just carries a different passport. If a dessert features a specialty fruit or vegetable, it’s imported, as are several staples. For example, finding lemons grown in Haiti can prove difficult, but you’ll find lemons, milk, olive oil and black pepper in the supermarket.

This doesn’t make Haiti’s dining options – whether fine or homely – any less authentic. On the contrary, it is a colorful illustration of how most people, things, and places in Haiti come together: from many places, to form one, beautiful display, laced with history.

The restaurants and ingredients listed above are just the beginning. Why not venture out to other spots in your neighborhood in Haiti – a true gem may be right around the corner!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

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Haitian cuisine

Raymond les Bains

Don’t miss: the freshly-grilled fish

Getting there

Find Raymond les Bains

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Explore the south of Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Gelée Beach

Gelée Beach

Grab a bite

Getting there

When to go

Find Gelée Beach

External Links

A Visual Guide to Vodou Symbols

Haiti’s Best Beaches & Islands

Paradise for your inbox

Soup Joumou – the taste of freedom

This once-forbidden stew now symbolises independence.

What is soup joumou?

Why is soup joumou so special?

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Our recommendations

Paradise for your inbox

Fresh and Local: Delicious Haitian Fruits & Veggies Not to Miss This Winter

Flying to Haiti in December? You’re in for a treat.

Island ingredients

01. Avocados

02. Beetroot

03. Cherries

04. Grapefruit

05. Oranges

06. Plantains

07. Pigeon peas

08. Pumpkin (joumou)

09. Sugar apple

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Passion Fruit & Poisson Gros Sel: The Haitian Cuisine

Haiti has a bright and vivid culture, and there is no place where it is reflected more boldly than in Haitian cuisine.

Where to find Haitian cuisine

Flavour staples and seasonal produce

Trade winds

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Plan Your Trip

Destinations

Information

Company

Plan Your Trip

Destinations

Information

Company

Select Language

Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

A Visual Guide to
Vodou Symbols