TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

beaches

Gelée Beach

Boat anchored in turquoise water off Gelée Beach, Haiti
Gelée Beach, Haiti
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Gelée Beach

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Situated in the heart of the Caribbean, between Cuba and the Dominican Republic, Haiti has over a thousand miles of coastline with dozens of destination-worthy beaches.

We’re talking white sand and turquoise water swelling up to coconut palms, chalk cliffs or jungle-clad mountains rolling off into the distance. Whether you choose one of the island’s most treasured coves or one of its many undiscovered wonders, the water here is warm all year round.

Gelée Beach

Located near Les Cayes in southern Haiti, Gelée Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Haiti. Highlights including the beachside fritay merchants and the chance to see cows grazing in fields that reach almost to the water’s edge. Compared to other popular beaches in Haiti, the surrounds are flat and open. Pastoral scenery notwithstanding, the water is tropical and the swimming here is lush.

The beach itself winds around the southern coastline for miles, with soft, pillowy sand melting into some of the most crystal clear waters you’ll find anywhere on the island – or in the Caribbean, for that matter.

Grab a bite

Colorful shacks of food vendors dot the treeline. The number of them is a testament to how popular Gelee beach is and how good the seafood is here. If you’ve already tried Haitian cuisine in Port-au-Prince, you’ll be familiar with the fried plantains and meat – typically called fritay, but don’t miss the chance to try the locally-caught seafood.

If you find the queues for the beachside food overwhelming, you’ll find a choice of restaurants and hotels a short drive from the beach.

At night, Gelée transforms into a lively, well-lit destination for dinner by the shore. The broad boulevard fills with music and foot traffic. People flock to the beach for Gelée’s specialty – grilled fish with fried plantains. Avoid a long wait by going with a local who can walk right up to their vendor of choice and order the right way.

Watch our video of the twoubadou band Tet Ansanm Twouba from Gelée Beach.

Getting there

Gelée beach is a twenty minute drive from downtown Les Cayes. As city gives way to surf, the road gives way to a sandy dirt track. Park off Route de Gelee and walk through the main entrance to the beach – the one closest to the bars and music – to be welcomed by the most picturesque view of the beach.

When to go

Every year, on August 15, the residents of Les Cayes celebrate Patron Saint festival of Our Lady of the Assumption. Thousands of people from all parts of Haiti and from the diaspora come to Les Cayes to participate in the festivities. If August 15 falls on a Friday, some extend their stay to the whole weekend.

During the festival, music can be heard from every rooftop, sidewalk, and front door of the city. There are plenty of activities for kids, and the highlight is the kite building and flying contest in Gelée, where adults and children come together. Kite-flying is hugely popular in Haiti, and has an entire season dedicated to it: kite season!

For a vibrant slice of Haitian summer life, August 15 is the perfect time to visit Gelée and Les Cayes.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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What to Pack for Your Trip to Haiti?

Flatlay of suitcase packing for vacation
Packing suitcase for the Caribbean
Photo: STIL via Unsplash

What to Pack for Your Trip to Haiti?

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Woohoo! You’ve booked your flights and your Hotel! You’re itching to get to out there and soak up some Caribbean sun.

To help you make the most of Haiti’s sultry climate, we’ve compiled a basic packing list. It’s one-size-fits-all, with a bit of the festive and a bit of the active, so feel free to adjust based on your own itinerary.

1. Light, breathable clothes

You’ve booked a getaway in a tropical destination – the heat in Haiti, particularly in the summer, is constant. Fortunately, we know a lot these days about which fabrics are the most reliable under these conditions – cotton, silk and natural fibres will keep you cool and dry. Ultralight wool made by technical travel clothing experts will wick away scent as well as moisture, meaning you can pack less and pack lighter.

Make sure that your wardrobe is mostly made of breathable fabric items that allow you to move freely. You don’t want to feel overheated, sweaty or slowed down while you’re strolling the streets of Cap-Haïtien or climbing to the cliff-top ruins.

Women in dresses crossing the airstrip to board a plane at Aerogare Guy Malary, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Aerogare Guy Malary, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

2. Comfortable shoes

Speaking of strolling and climbing, chances are that you’ll be walking around the island quite a lot – even if you rent a car. Most travellers who visit Haiti are looking for a short break that involves more active travel and adventure than your average Caribbean vacation.

Keep your feet happy and ready for more with shoes suited for what you plan to do. You might want to consider: a pair of flexible, breathable hiking boots (or sturdy sneakers that can take a good stomping); sandals that deliver on style and support for the arch; comfortable heels for the nights you’ll want to go party ’til sunrise – because you will; and some classic, well-worn flip-flops for wearing around your Airbnb and at the beach.

3. Something fancy

If the high heels in the previous section were any indication, the nightlife in Haiti is rich and non-stop – people go out all week long, although the weekends are always the peak of the party. Pack something fancy for going out to restaurants and clubs. And if you’ll be in Haiti for a festival, or during Carnaval, pack something extra special to feel at home in the dazzling crowd.

Haitians like to dress up, so party like a local by packing your Friday-night best. Top tip: Haitians tend to dress up even more for dining out than they do for partying.

Flatlay of beachwear, diary and passport ready for vacation
Vacation packing for the Caribbean
Photo: STIL via Unsplash

4. Beach basics

How many bikinis? How many towels? How many sarongs? This really depends on your wardrobe at home – one of each is enough, but if you have an extra set (or two) of swimwear, bring them too. You’ll be going from beach to restaurant to pool to party to spa, and being able to carry a dry set or two is a nice little luxury.

If your hotel has its own pool and is close to a beach, chances are that they’ll provide you with enough towels to use in your room and by the water. If you’re planning to go free-swimming at one of Haiti’s natural wonders, do pack your own towel to take with you on the hike.

The more advanced will adjust this category as they see fit – water shoes? Snorkel? Fins? Otherwise, a pair of towels, some bikinis, and a coverup are all you need!

5. Take your meds

Before hopping on that plane – actually, before even packing your suitcase, it’s good to think about what medications you might need while on your trip. Make sure you pack enough of your prescription medications to last your entire trip, and throw in any over-the-counter medications you think you might need. Although you’ll find these at drug stores scattered throughout the major cities, it’s always easier to pack half a sheet now than to go looking once you’ve already got a pounding headache.

When you’re getting your shots from your doctor, ask them what else they recommend taking with you, and add it to your survival kit!

6. Tropical self-defense

Mosquito repellent, sunblock, and aloe-vera-rich after-sun gel! Haiti is hiding a wealth of white-sand beaches and jurassic forest trails waiting for you to find them – make sure you can make the most of it by carrying insect repellent and sunblock in your day bag.

Itching and sunburn can really take the fun out of your adventure-packed itinerary or de-stressing time, so be prepared and save yourself some grief. Just remember to pack all this in a separate, transparent bag to make your slog through customs hassle-free.

Electronics and travel essentials laid out ready to pack
Electronics and travel essentials laid out ready to pack
Photo: Hector Martinez via Unsplash

7. Appliances aplenty

If you’re bringing your phone, laptop, cameras, and other gear on your trip, make sure that you have all of your cords, back-ups, and extra batteries packed. If you have them, spare cables and chargers never hurt – as getting these items in Haiti can prove quite costly.

Pro tip: when packing spare batteries, tape them together so that none of the positive ends can touch any of the negative ends. This will stop your batteries from accidentally losing charge in transit.

8. Papers, please

You’ll want to make sure you have the following items in a Ziploc bag, ready to go: boarding pass (if it’s not digital), passport, wallet, ID, money – in USD, because you do pay a USD $10 tourist fee upon entering the country, and because you’ll need to change it into Haitian Gourdes to get around in the country. It’s also a good idea to write down a few important contact numbers for use while in Haiti, and the street address of your first night’s accommodation.

9. Pack for the occasion

Is there anything that your visit requires you to bring? Extra camera lenses? A cocktail dress? If you can anticipate what you plan to do on the island, this is where those “you never know” items go, for a “you had to be there” experience!


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018


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Four Reasons Why Haiti Is an Adventure

Three travellers wading in the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Travellers exploring the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Four Reasons Why Haiti Is an Adventure

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The jungles, jagged coastlines and wild white-sand beaches of Haiti were made for adventure travel, and the list of thrills is longer than the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range and bigger than Lake Azuéi. Haiti is a place not many tourists go, but where adventure-seekers thrive. It’s a place for the brave and curious.

Head for the hills in the Forêt de Pins, where a myriad of lush trails lead through the tropical conifers to Pic la Selle. Scuba dive off the island of La Gonave and discover a riot of underwater colours. Spend a day snorkeling in the crystal clear waters of Anse a Galets. Go caving behind the wild waterfalls of Bassin Zim. Feel the fresh air and adrenaline as you fly through the skies on the Dragon’s Breath zipline – the longest overwater zipline experience in the world.

You’ll need to do some real exploring

As far as Caribbean destinations go, Haiti is still a path less-travelled. As such – you won’t always find the sorts of creature comforts served up in the luxury hotels of other caribbean destinations, or an exhaustive directory of thoroughly reviewed local experiences. Unspoiled by the throngs of tourists you’d expect elsewhere, Haiti is a destination reserved for the intrepid, the inspired, the intrigued.

Haiti is raw. If the Caribbean was a menu, Haiti would be wild-caught and forest-foraged. For every manicured garden you stumble into, there are a hundred wild white-sand beaches waiting for you to kayak to, and for every paved road there’s a thousand rocky paths heading into the jungle-covered mountains, accessible only on foot. With a few exceptions, you won’t find the coolest cafes on instagram or the picturesque panormas on Pinterest – you’ll have to get out of your room, holster your smartphone, and find them yourself.

People relaxing by the sea at sunset, Haiti
People relaxing by the sea
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

You’ll need to be prepared

You won’t be completely in the dark though –  cell phone coverage is pretty good, you can find wifi in the cities and bigger towns, there’s another AirBnB added every month and an increasing number of hotels can be booked directly from a mobile phone. But take spare battery packs for everything – there’s no telling whether the solar electricity advertised at your Airbnb will last as long as claimed.

Google Maps coverage of Haiti is getting better, but there are still shortfalls. For directions to many destination, you’ll need to rely on local guides. All directions you find online should be taken with a grain of salt and seasoned with up-to-date advice. Google Maps can’t guide you through the intricate network of public transportation options, and doesn’t take into account the ravines made impassable by recent rains, or the truck that has been broken down and blocking that road for a week now.

Practice your French – or better yet, Creole!

Before you can navigate your way around boulders, you’ll need to navigate your way around the local languages! For some travellers, the most adventurous aspect of a trip to Haiti will be finding yourself in a country where the vast majority do not speak English. French is the official second language here, so if you have some high school French, dust off that dictionary and brush up before you go. Compared to France and Quebec, the locals of Haiti will be glad for your attempts to speak French, so don’t be shy. Don’t forget to smile and greet everyone with a joyful “Bonjour!”.

Better yet, embrace the chance to learn something new, and have a crack at Haitian Kreyol. You will win over anyone you encounter by making an honest effort at speaking their language. What you lack in vocab you can make up for in enthusiasm: stretch your hands and get ready for a real life game of charades.  

Moto on a beach in Haiti
Moto on the beach
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

It’s not a postcard – it’s an experience

If you’re looking to leave behind the theme-park “paradise” offered at the bigger Caribbean islands in favour of something less iconic but more inspiring; if you want to ditch the dull itineraries and dive into a different perspective; if you’re sick of the curated seaside resorts and want to walk among real people shaped by hard work and hope, who’ve overcome more than their fair share of dark history and recent hardship, you’ve come to the right place. If you’re seeking a pinch of unpredictability, visit Haiti.

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” -Anthony Bourdain

-Anthony Bourdain

Expect the unexpected, and don’t forget to bring your sense of adventure!


Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Jacmel City Guide

Ocean boardwalk in Jacmel
Boardwalk at Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

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Urban Guides: Jacmel

Whether you’re looking for adventure, nature, fast festival rhythms, rejuvenation on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel will slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

old colonial houses in coastal city
City center of Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Switch off in the City of Light

Once dubbed the “City of Light,” the seaside city of Jacmel was the first place in the Caribbean to get electricity back in the nineteenth century. These days, there’s something else unusual about Jacmel’s power use – it’s limited, meaning if you Airbnb here, you better be prepared with backup batteries for the daily ritual of switching off from the grid.

For many Americans power outages are rare, unpredictable, inconvenient and even spooky. They’re when you realise you forgot to put fresh batteries in your flashlights, and/or leave your flashlights where you can find them in the dark. For the residents of Jacmel, though, it’s part of the daily rhythm, and it doesn’t seem to phase the travellers who love coming back to Jacmel every year. Jacmel is famous for festivals, and in-between it’s a magical destination, well-equipped to help you switch-off and hit reset.

Stairs with a mosaic of words in Jacmel, Haiti
Stairs with mosaik art in Jacmel
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Art & Culture

Known as the culture capital of Haiti, Jacmel is a hub for art, folklore, foodies, festivals and nightlife. Colorful paper-mache creations, often seen during Jacmel’s annual carnival, can be found and bought all year round. Many of the masks and paintings are reflective of Haiti’s deeply unique religion – the potent symbology of Haitian Vodou infuses the city streets.

Jacmel is a compact city, and easy to explore on foot. For a closer look, you can ask local guides Experience Jacmel to take you to visit a Vodou “peristyle” or help you make your own carnival mask.

A tourist stands on a stone bridge across rapids at Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Are you more of an outdoorsy-type? Jacmel offers excellent proximity to many of Haiti’s most exciting al-fresco adventures. Reconnect with nature at La Vallée, Bassin BleuMarigot or Fort Ogè in Cap Rouge – all within a short drive or a sturdy hike.

The tropical sun will test your mettle, but for the brave and well-prepared there are caves waiting to be discovered, waterfalls waiting to be jumped off of and swam under, steep and shady jungle paths for you to leave footprints on, and crisp mountain air to reset your cortisol levels. You’ll find adventure itineraries suited to your level from novice hiker to hardened overland survivor.

people swimming by beach with trees
La Saline Beach in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Crazy-good beaches

If you’d rather hit the snooze button than the gym, no sweat! Beach bums can relax at one of Jacmel’s several stunning strips of paradisian sand, including Cyvadier, Raymond les Bains, L’Amitie and Kabic.  Soak up the sun, catch some waves, sip on a coconut (would you like that with rum?), and lick your fingers after a plate of freshly caught and barbecued seafood.

Whether you’re hoping to realign your chakras or just happy to find inner peace in a succession of ice-cold rum cocktails, you’ll find bliss on the beaches of Jacmel.

The colorful exterior of Cafe Koze in Jacmel, Haiti
Cafe Koze in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The food culture in Jacmel is thriving, and published guides struggle to keep up with the pace of new hotels, bars and restaurants springing up all of the place.

Take to the mosaic boardwalk as you trace the coastline, by day a popular place for active types out jogging, and by night full of eclectically-clothed hipster students. Venture just a couple of streets inland from the boardwalk and you’ll find a mix of traditional and boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries, with a few souvenir shops thrown into the mix.

Where to eat

If you’ve just arrived, settle in at the chilled-out Cafe Koze, where you can people-watch over their mouth-watering homemade rum-and-raisin ice-cream.

Hotel Florita, once the mansion of a coffee magnate, will appeal to fans of Graham Greene. Here you can sit in the sultry semi-open courtyard (the UNESCO-listed hotel has no air conditioners), and sip a traditional Haitian filter coffee – exceedingly sweet and rich, and every bit as addictive as Vietnamese coffee. The restaurant serves excellent Haitian food palatable for cautious Americans and Europeans, but be warned: waiting times can exceed an hour. You won’t mind though, because they also make delectable rum sours, and the first is on the house!

If what you’re after is exotic food and exquisite beachfront views, head to Hotel Cyvadier Plage. Their shrimp and chicken dishes are crowd pleasers, but their specialty is in brightly constructed plates based on seasonal catch. In fact, if you’re breakfasting in the courtyard (and know a little French), you’re so close to the lapping shore that you can chat with fisherman as they tie up their boats to deliver the catch of the day.

Where to drink

Start with La Taverne or Belle Epoque Barak. La Taverne is where you’ll find more rum sours, and occasionally salsa performances. Belle Epoque is where expats go to stay up late listening to hip hop and house. They also do pretty good wings – not a bad way to line your stomach before a long rum-fuelled night of dancing.

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dance to your own beat

Jacmel is one of the friendliest and most tranquil cities in Haiti, but if you want to pack the most into a short break here, the best way to plug yourself into the pulse that feeds the city is to book in advance to stay during one of the festival weekends. Renowned DJs and artists will bring together hundreds, sometimes thousands of people, from all walks of life, to sing, dance, and celebrate. Whether your flavour of choice is rara or bachata, compa or salsa, house or tango, ask around on a holiday weekend, and you will find your party.

There’s too many festivals to list them all here, but briefly: Independence Day and New Years Day share January 1, and Carnival (think an Afro-Caribbean Mardi Gras) is held in the lead up to Shrove Tuesday. There’s also festivals that celebrate storytelling, rum, and the identity-affirming Rara.

Who should go?

Jacmel holds something for everyone.  Whether you are looking for new adventure, to reconnect nature, to let your hair down surrounded by the pounding festival rhythms, or to rejuvenate on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel has something to slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

One last thing before you head back up over the mountains: buy yourself a t-shirt that reads “Jacmel Mwen Fou Pou Ou” (Kreyol for “Jacmel, I’m Crazy For You”) and become part of the unofficial Jacmel fan club. Welcome to the gang.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018.