Kokoye Beach

Looking for a weekend destination not far from Port-au-Prince? You’ll find the low-key glamping experience at Kokoye Beach that is an altogether different sort of luxury. Set into the unrivaled beauty of Haiti’s south coast, the pristine cove of Kokoye is just an hour’s boat ride from Petit-Goave.

Leave your troubles and your backpack in the tent provided, enjoy seafood served up by a local host, and spend your days swimming, snorkeling and drinking rum punch in a cove worthy of a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean.

“Glamping” (glamorous camping) is a popular alternative to both low-convenience regular camping and high-priced but underwhelming hotels, but what really sets glamping apart from either is the access it affords to wilderness, and is the uniqueness of the experience.

Kokoye Beach is one of the few beach excursions in Haiti that is set up for tourists, with all-inclusive boat trips departing daily. It’s a way to experience the white sand and lagoon-blue wonders of Haiti in comfort and on a budget. The quality of services in Kokoye won’t disappoint. This is Glamping with a capital G.

Raw nature

Rocky outcrops stretch out on either side of the beach, bookending a pristine inlet. In the middle, an expanse of sparkling water stays tranquil and wave-free 90% of the time. It’s ideal for paddle boarding, snorkeling, kayaking and swimming. The water and white sand are pristine – the beach is maintained by local associations to keep tourists coming back for more.

Palm trees line white sand beaches that stretch into aqua water that is so unbelievably blue you’ll be tagging your Insta stories with #nofilter. The water is waist-deep until 200 meters out, perfect for bobbing the day away with an icy-cold rum punch in hand.

Come sunset, you can wind down lounging around bonfires, listening to local troubadours playing konpa classics on worn drums, and celebrate into the night.

With no electricity nearby, stargazers will be delighted by some of the Caribbean’s starriest skies. On a related note – pack head-torches or flashlights and extra battery packs for any phones and cameras you plan on using. The west of the beach offers access to modern toilets and showers where you can rinse off the sea water at the end of the day.

This is Haiti as it was made to be experienced. A hotel room is a hotel room but when you stay in a tent on the sand, and nap on a hammock strung between two coconut palms, it’s a unique way to feel immersed in the natural beauty this part of the world has to offer. Watching the sun rise over the water with no walls between you, and the sea at your fingertips, can be a life-changing experience.

Beach-side feasts

When you get hungry, you’ll be glad you’re not quite roughing it: a safety net of experienced staff will provide fresh seafood grilled over sizzling embers, and hot coffee in the morning. They’re professional and unobtrusive. Security is provided but never needed.

If sea-to-table and farm-to-fork meals are the new height of luxury, then you’ll be living it up at Kokoye Beach. Haitian coffee, cane sugar and cassava bread with peanut butter and fruit are standard breakfast fare. All ingredients are fresh and as far as possible locally-caught or grown.

If you’ve been initiated into the Haitian traditional of spaghetti for breakfast then you’ll be in for a treat. For lunch and dinner you can order grilled lambi (conch), fish or lobster. The seafood is always catch of the day. Dishes are seasoned with a Haitian mixture of garlic, hot peppers, lime and spices that will have you coming back for more.

Feeling more adventurous?

You can explore sea caves on the north end of the beach, a 15 to 20 minute swim away. Looking for something inland? Hike around the southeast end of the beach to discover the ruins of a swimming pool and a crumbling mansion from a bygone era.

Getting there

Kokoye Beach is located on a remote peninsula south of Petit-Goave, and it is only accessible by boat, or extreme hiking for 2-3 hours. There is no car access, which makes it feel more like an island escape. Visitors can call ahead to reserve tents, sleeping bags, and other comforts with a local host. People like Madam Fanfan (509) 4028 – 31 66 will also be able to help arrange your boat travel.

It’s also possible to arrange for an impromptu water taxi from the pier in Petit Goave. The boat ride time will vary depending on the motor and number of people aboard and visitors can expect to pay more for covered boats. While on the boat ride you’ll see local fisherman in their element, and freediving is a regular sight, as are sailboats sluicing by at slower speeds. The water changes from indigo blue to turquoise to aqua as you skim along the shore toward Kokoye.

Just over halfway there, Bananier Beach – a popular destination in its own right – is usually the first stop. Kokoye Beach is 20 minutes further down the coast.

Tips for making the most of your trip

One way to prepare for the excursion to Kokoye Beach (and make your hosts happy) is by bringing lots of Haitian gourdes in small bills. While 50 gourdes may not go far in Port-au-Prince, the provinces will appreciate the change. On such a remote peninsula, making change is a regular problem so you’ll be doing a service to the local economy by bringing in plenty of 10, 25, 50, and 100 gourde notes. In a pinch, US dollars are accepted in lieu of gourdes.

Whether you’re into a salty, rough-and-ready DIY adventure or plan to take full advantage of the excellent food and facilities services provided by dedicated staff, an excursion to remote Kokoye beach is a great way to relax and reconnect.

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published July 2018

Find Kokoye Beach

External Links

Read more about Kokoye Beach on Trip Advisor

Tripadvisor

Looking for some cool things to do?

Ocean boardwalk in Jacmel — Boardwalk at Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Whether you’re looking for adventure, nature, fast festival rhythms, rejuvenation on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel will slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

old colonial houses in coastal city — City center of Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Switch off in the City of Light

Once dubbed the “City of Light,” the seaside city of Jacmel was the first place in the Caribbean to get electricity back in the nineteenth century. These days, there’s something else unusual about Jacmel’s power use – it’s limited, meaning if you Airbnb here, you better be prepared with backup batteries for the daily ritual of switching off from the grid.

For many Americans power outages are rare, unpredictable, inconvenient and even spooky. They’re when you realise you forgot to put fresh batteries in your flashlights, and/or leave your flashlights where you can find them in the dark. For the residents of Jacmel, though, it’s part of the daily rhythm, and it doesn’t seem to phase the travellers who love coming back to Jacmel every year. Jacmel is famous for festivals, and in-between it’s a magical destination, well-equipped to help you switch-off and hit reset.

Stairs with a mosaic of words in Jacmel, Haiti — Stairs with mosaik art in Jacmel
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Art & Culture

Known as the culture capital of Haiti, Jacmel is a hub for art, folklore, foodies, festivals and nightlife. Colorful paper-mache creations, often seen during Jacmel’s annual carnival, can be found and bought all year round. Many of the masks and paintings are reflective of Haiti’s deeply unique religion – the potent symbology of Haitian Vodou infuses the city streets.

Jacmel is a compact city, and easy to explore on foot. For a closer look, you can ask local guides Experience Jacmel to take you to visit a Vodou “peristyle” or help you make your own carnival mask.

A tourist stands on a stone bridge across rapids at Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti — Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Are you more of an outdoorsy-type? Jacmel offers excellent proximity to many of Haiti’s most exciting al-fresco adventures. Reconnect with nature at La Vallée, Bassin Bleu, Marigot or Fort Ogè in Cap Rouge – all within a short drive or a sturdy hike.

The tropical sun will test your mettle, but for the brave and well-prepared there are caves waiting to be discovered, waterfalls waiting to be jumped off of and swam under, steep and shady jungle paths for you to leave footprints on, and crisp mountain air to reset your cortisol levels. You’ll find adventure itineraries suited to your level from novice hiker to hardened overland survivor.

people swimming by beach with trees — La Saline Beach in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Crazy-good beaches

If you’d rather hit the snooze button than the gym, no sweat! Beach bums can relax at one of Jacmel’s several stunning strips of paradisian sand, including Cyvadier, Raymond les Bains, L’Amitie and Kabic. Soak up the sun, catch some waves, sip on a coconut (would you like that with rum?), and lick your fingers after a plate of freshly caught and barbecued seafood.

Whether you’re hoping to realign your chakras or just happy to find inner peace in a succession of ice-cold rum cocktails, you’ll find bliss on the beaches of Jacmel.

The colorful exterior of Cafe Koze in Jacmel, Haiti — Cafe Koze in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The food culture in Jacmel is thriving, and published guides struggle to keep up with the pace of new hotels, bars and restaurants springing up all of the place.

Take to the mosaic boardwalk as you trace the coastline, by day a popular place for active types out jogging, and by night full of eclectically-clothed hipster students. Venture just a couple of streets inland from the boardwalk and you’ll find a mix of traditional and boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries, with a few souvenir shops thrown into the mix.

Where to eat

If you’ve just arrived, settle in at the chilled-out Cafe Koze, where you can people-watch over their mouth-watering homemade rum-and-raisin ice-cream.

Hotel Florita, once the mansion of a coffee magnate, will appeal to fans of Graham Greene. Here you can sit in the sultry semi-open courtyard (the UNESCO-listed hotel has no air conditioners), and sip a traditional Haitian filter coffee – exceedingly sweet and rich, and every bit as addictive as Vietnamese coffee. The restaurant serves excellent Haitian food palatable for cautious Americans and Europeans, but be warned: waiting times can exceed an hour. You won’t mind though, because they also make delectable rum sours, and the first is on the house!

If what you’re after is exotic food and exquisite beachfront views, head to Hotel Cyvadier Plage. Their shrimp and chicken dishes are crowd pleasers, but their specialty is in brightly constructed plates based on seasonal catch. In fact, if you’re breakfasting in the courtyard (and know a little French), you’re so close to the lapping shore that you can chat with fisherman as they tie up their boats to deliver the catch of the day.

Where to drink

Start with La Taverne or Belle Epoque Barak. La Taverne is where you’ll find more rum sours, and occasionally salsa performances. Belle Epoque is where expats go to stay up late listening to hip hop and house. They also do pretty good wings – not a bad way to line your stomach before a long rum-fuelled night of dancing.

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti — Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dance to your own beat

Jacmel is one of the friendliest and most tranquil cities in Haiti, but if you want to pack the most into a short break here, the best way to plug yourself into the pulse that feeds the city is to book in advance to stay during one of the festival weekends. Renowned DJs and artists will bring together hundreds, sometimes thousands of people, from all walks of life, to sing, dance, and celebrate. Whether your flavour of choice is rara or bachata, compa or salsa, house or tango, ask around on a holiday weekend, and you will find your party.

There’s too many festivals to list them all here, but briefly: Independence Day and New Years Day share January 1, and Carnival (think an Afro-Caribbean Mardi Gras) is held in the lead up to Shrove Tuesday. There’s also festivals that celebrate storytelling, rum, and the identity-affirming Rara.

Who should go?

Jacmel holds something for everyone. Whether you are looking for new adventure, to reconnect nature, to let your hair down surrounded by the pounding festival rhythms, or to rejuvenate on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel has something to slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

One last thing before you head back up over the mountains: buy yourself a t-shirt that reads “Jacmel Mwen Fou Pou Ou” (Kreyol for “Jacmel, I’m Crazy For You”) and become part of the unofficial Jacmel fan club. Welcome to the gang.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018.

Raw nature

Beach-side feasts

Feeling more adventurous?

Getting there