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11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Lansèt kod group in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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If you already know a little about Haiti, then you likely have an idea about our magnificent country, located on the enchanting island of Hispaniola that we share with the Dominican Republic. It’s possible, however, that you have yet to hear about some of the most unique Haitian cultural traditions only known to locals.

To satisfy your curiosity, we’ve rounded up a selection of our oldest traditions, ranging from the daily life in our rural communities to the hubbub of our cities and rich culinary culture.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. “Krik-Krak”

Any true Haitian knows that the exclamation “krik?” always proceeds with an excellent “krak,” or story, as telling tales is an integral part of Haiti’s cultural traditions. Whether under an arbor drinking lemongrass tea with cinnamon or in the comfort of a warm room, the youngest gather around the oldest to tell their tales of yesteryear.

If you want to catch the attention of a Haitian friend, take every opportunity to throw out a “krik?” and they will invariably respond with a “krak.” But your story better be a good one!

Sounds interesting, doesn’t it? Get the backstory to this unique tradition and discover the impact of krik-krak in Haitian culture. Also, for an excellent read, the book Krik? Krak! is a compilation of fascinating Haitian tales by Edwidge Danticat, one of the most famous Haitian women authors to date.

Workers in a konbit in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

2. Konbit

If you pass through some rural regions in Haiti during the tilling season, don’t be surprised to find all the villagers working together or on each other’s lands. This form of social organization in our rural societies is an essential part of our culture and one of the oldest Haitian traditions that continue to this day.

While the men happily handle their kouto digo (hatchet), and machetes to unearth and work the land before its next sowing, women prepare the meals. Moreover, the word “konbit” in Haitian Creole has come into use to refer to living in harmony and the neighborly practices that are unique to the Haitian community.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

3. Lakou

Imagine living in a homeland within another, where each individual forms an integral part of a larger society devoted to a greater good. In Haiti, such a place is known as a lakou. It’s typical to see Haitian families sharing common spaces around their central family units.

The lakou serves as an educational cocoon in which the youngest members can learn about sharing and living in neighborly harmony from their elders. Those who grow up in the commune have a responsibility to one day return to honor their family, seek wise advice, and publicly apologize to the Vodou spirits or loas that may have been offended.

Many Haitian rural communities rely on the social organization that lakou provide to advance in everyday living – and not only do they till the ground together but also share and practice their belief in Haitian Vodou. The worship of spirits is deeply entrenched in the lakou, and well-known lakou like Souvans, Soukri, and Badio maintain this cultural tradition unique to Haiti.

Beny chans preparations in Kabik
Photo: Anton Lau

4. Beny chans

It might seem strange from the looks of it initially, but if you happen to come across a large water bowl of mixed herbs and leaves while traveling through Haiti, then you’ve encountered a “beny chans.” Traditionally an herbal shower for women after giving birth, it is also considered a potion for good luck, finding a soulmate, or even protection during a life-changing trip.

If you didn’t grow up in Haiti, you might be wary about dipping your hands in this unusual mixture. Still, for locals, it’s all part of the unique Haitian culture – so much so that it wouldn’t be surprising for a native living abroad to return to Haiti to receive this sacred anointment on New Year’s eve.

Feeling adventurous? Go and give it a try. But don’t forget to tap into your African-Caribbean roots with our guide on returning to the motherland.

a vodou priest and practitioner performing a dance
Ritual at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. Vodou ceremony and dance

Here’s one of the Haitian cultural traditions that will undoubtedly arouse your curiosity. Forget about the mainstream concept of a group of bloodthirsty Satanists gathering at a run-down Gothic-style church – this is Hollywood stereotyping at its best. Instead, think of an authentic spiritual experience where members enter a trance-like state in alignment with powerful spiritual entities.

Haitian culture isn’t the only one that has Vodou as a religious practice, with similar rituals actively performed in places like the Deep South” in Louisiana or the insular African nation of Benin. In countries such as Brazil and Cuba, the practice of Santeria is still common in many communities. The Haitian Vodou tradition, however, involves elements from years of syncretism, resulting in a blend of African, Christian, and Taíno spiritual traditions.

Vodou is a strong cultural tradition in the Haitian collective imagination—and it’s present in Haitian paintings, music, dances, and literature. More than simply religion or spirituality, Vodou is an intangible patrimony that all Haitians share, whether they consider themselves a true practitioner or not.

Ready for an experience of your own? Find out how to attend a Vodou ceremony in Haiti.

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

6. Fèt Gede

The dead occupy a place of central importance in Haitian daily life, and honoring them constitutes one of the most sacred cultural traditions. To do this, the entire month of November is consecrated each year to ceremonies aimed at appeasing the dead and communicating with them. The spirits that reign over the world of the dead in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Bawon Samdi and Grann Brigitte.

The Gédé symbolizes the spirits of those who have passed into the other world. During the ceremonies organized in their honor, they return to bring joy to the people with their frenzied dancing and salacious speech.

Every Haitian day of the dead celebration is packed with an aura of excitement and mysticism, which you can see for yourself in this photo journal from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band marching in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

7. Rara

Not all Haitian cultural traditions have origins as dark as those about death. In fact, some of them are rather joyous, and the Rara is a perfect example. These groups that march on foot along the streets during pre-Carnaval weekends and the Easter period constitute one of Haiti’s best-known cultural practices.

These spirited groups of bons vivants play various instruments, such as bamboo, the vaccine, cymbals, and sometimes even trumpets and other brass instruments. Their repertoire can run from parodies of popular songs to original songs and those written for special occasions.

Each group is preceded by a man who carries a flag, a woman who wears the group’s colors, and young girls who start the procession. Following are musicians and the rest of the good-natured group that dances along to the sound of the music.

Now, the practice of Rara isn’t only particular to Haiti; other Caribbean nations like Cuba and the Dominican Republic, where it is known as Gaga, have adopted this cultural tradition from Haiti.

Get the true origins behind the Rara tradition of Haiti and join the celebration!

A group of lansèt kod in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Lansèt kòd

If you visit Haiti during the Carnival period, you’ll undoubtedly have the chance to witness one of the most unforgettable cultural traditions: the famous procession of the Lansèt Kòd. Some Haitians will tell you that they were traumatized by it as children. These groups that flood the streets of towns such as Jacmel, Jérémie, or Cap-Haïtien on pre-Carnival Sundays have more than what it takes to impress.

Wearing bull horns on their heads and whips in hand, these men with rippling muscles and bare chests fill up the streets while covered entirely in black paint. Yes, you read that right—they are completely covered with a blacker-than-black substance that will surely make you think of crude oil. Throughout the Carnival procession, they’ll offer up a performance that will remain ingrained in your memory for some time.

Learn more about the Lansèt kòd tradition here!

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Carnival

The Haitian carnival is one of the most widely recognized in the Caribbean. The one hosted in Jacmel has been decreed a national festival due to its artistic allure, attracting numerous tourists every year. It is a brightly colored cultural manifestation where you’ll see Haitian artisans’ talent displayed in themes reminiscent of flora and fauna of the country.

This popular celebration is not only an occasion for artists and artisans to display their talents or attract visitors – but it’s also a means for the population to express their problems with the powers that be. It’s a celebration where all levels of society come together without embarrassment or worrying about societal barriers.

If you’re looking to be part of the festivities this February, then you’d better be prepared to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval.

A bowl of soup joumou
Soup Joumou
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Soup Joumou

If you visit any Haitian family on New Year’s Day, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by a culinary practice as old as Haiti: the traditional Soup Joumou preparation. So forget about your desire to eat anything else, and let our succulent soup seduce your tastebuds.

Prepared from a giraumont (turban squash) base, where the soup gets its name -as well as vegetables and tubers – this dish is a staple in all Haitian households on New Year’s Day. Don’t be surprised to see people incorporating Soup Joumou with every meal served during the entire celebration. It’s just that good.

This tradition hearkens back to January 1st, 1804, when the young nation chose this delicious dish – until then only reserved for the colonizers and special guests – to celebrate their freshly acquired liberty.

Want to find out what makes Soup Joumou so unique? Pick up on some of the history behind the dish, and learn the basics of preparing the best Soup Joumou.

Fête champêtre in Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Fête champêtre

Every city in Haiti has its own patron Saint to which the inhabitants turn to confess their troubles and joys or make special petitions. These cultural celebrations of the patron saints, also called fête champêtres, are on another level.

Regardless of their religious beliefs, locals from other provincial towns, as well as a crowd of curious onlookers and tourists, head toward the capital cities from each village to celebrate the feast dedicated to the patron saint.

Along with religious pilgrims, you also have the partygoers who are only there to enjoy the festival following the Grand Mass of the local parish. Among the most popular fêtes champêtres in Haiti are the celebrations of Notre Dame of Mount Carmel in Saut d’Eau and Notre Dame in Petit Goâve.

Gather with the locals and go on a pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau, whether for spiritual reasons or just to celebrate and party hard with the crowd.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2022.


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Photo Journal: Fèt Gede – A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

crowd gathered at haitian cemetery with big cross for fet gede ritual
Crowd gathered for Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fèt Gede: A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

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Every November in Haiti, there are festivities held throughout the month that, for an outsider, might seem, well, quite strange! In particular, the Fête Gede (Day of the Dead) and All Saint’s Day involve unsettling processions to the cemetery of each town around the country.

The crowd that gathers is a varied group, comprising people who are simply curious as well as people of all different faiths, including Hatian Vodou. They join together to walk to the main cemetery in each town, all the while following the unique spectacle that the procession offers. And what is this spectacle, exactly? Practitioners of Vodou taken over by the Gede, the spirits for whom these stunning celebrations in Haiti are held.

vodou practitioner holding a machete and colorful handkerchiefs
A Vodou practitioner celebrating Fèt Gede, Gonaïves Cemetary
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In Vodou spirituality, the Gede are the spirits of the dead. They are responsible for accompanying the dead on the path toward the other world, but also of watching over the living. They thus constitute the bridge between the world of the living and the world of the dead. Two major Gede deities in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Baron Samedi and Grann Brigitte.

gravestone at haitian cemetery during fet gede ritual
Fèt Gede rituals at the cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Those possessed by the gede spirits set the festival’s tone, which is truly carnivalesque. You might hear some rough language, see some dirty dancing, and witness other extravagant performances. All of these provide plenty of entertainment for the more docile crowd that follows along.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
A Vodou temple inside the Cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fueled by alcohol, as well as hot pepper-based infusions that they sprinkle on their bodies, the procession heads toward the main cemetery. Overtaken by the spirits of the dead, the possessed swear and carry out quite a remarkable performance.

gravestone at haitian cemetery with two soda bottles and flowers
Offerings on a gravestone during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The spectacle of the procession attracts quite a crowd, and the possessed are easily recognizable due to the ritual colors of Baron Samedi that they wear (white, black, and purple). Some even cover themselves entirely with white powder or draw gloomy scenes on their bodies. Others choose to wear the preferred attire of Baron Samedi, which includes a black hat, monocle, and cane. Altogether, this creates a true Carnival of the Dead that happens every year in Haitian cemeteries.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
Preparation during Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

This Festival of the Dead, which comprises rituals and dances all November long, testifies to the intimate link that exists between the world of the living and the world of the dead in Vodou spirituality. For practitioners of Vodou,  Fête Gede is really more like a celebration of life. The gede spirits who return via their hosts during possession can attest to this way of thinking. They are brought to life by joy and are spirits who love to laugh, dance, and have fun.

haitian vodou practitioner dancing at fet gede ritual with crowd watching
Vodou practitioners during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

All of these wild performances have just one objective: to amuse. The festival is not a moment for tears or regrets but rather a time to honor the memory of the departed. Part of this involves preparing for the festival by cleaning the cemeteries and restoring the tombs.

Those who have sailed for “the land without a hat” — a Haitian expression that means the “beyond,” because no one is buried with their hat — remain present in daily life and are nonetheless celebrated as they should be during this festival given in their honor. In Vodou spirituality, those who have set sail for the world of the dead maintain an important role in everyday life. The spirits of those who have passed on, bearing the name Gede, are respected as guardians, advisors, or vengeful spirits by those who remain.

The Fête Gede festival in Haiti is somewhat similar to the Day of the Dead as practiced in other parts of the world (e.g. Dia de los Muertos). The difference, however, lies in the place that the dead occupy in Vodou belief and in the syncretism underlying the various beliefs that Haitians hold.

haitian cemetery with sculpture and blue sky with clouds
Monument for the Gede spirit Brave, Gonaïves Cemetery
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

As a legacy of ancestral African traditions, Vodou reserves an important place for those who have departed this world for the next. In the procession of the Gede, different people portray different divinities, including Baron Samedi, Baron Lacroix, Baron Criminel, Grann Brigitte, and all the other Gede spirits. Much more than simple guardians of death and graveyards, the Gede are also guardians of life.

As such, the celebration of Fèt Gede is not just a celebration to commemorate the dead, but a celebration where the dead can take part by way of possession in the form of Gede spirits.

haitians gathered at cemetery for fet gede vodou ritual
A Vodou Priestess heading a ceremony for the spirit Brave Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

At the main cemetery in Port-au-Prince, where the biggest iteration of this festival is held each year, Catholics come to pray for the souls of their deceased at the small chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, Protestants come to gather at the graves of their lost loved ones, and practitioners of Vodou come for the largest celebration of the Fête Gede festival in all of Haiti.

haitian vodou practitioners lighting a candle during fet gede
A Vodou ritual at a ceremony during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The festival is at the very crossroads of Haiti’s religious syncretism, with Catholics and Protestants joining the procession to the cemeteries, all worshiping differently but each bearing the same thoughts for the departed, thoughts colored by the beliefs on which these extraordinary celebrations are based.

haitian vodou practitioner at cemetery wearing a black and purple dress
A Vodou ceremony for the Brave Gede spirit during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Even if Fèt Gede is held on and around All Saint’s Day and the Day of the Dead, it’s a much different celebration than ones that you might see elsewhere. It’s a true moment of communion between the dead and the living, the latter of whom brings coffee, roasted corn, cassava, clairin (rum), or the favorite dish of the lost loved one.

haitian man holding a part of a human skull for fet gede
Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

One might even be tempted to say that Fèt Gede is much more than a simple set of practices based on certain beliefs about death — rather, it constitutes a genuine philosophy of life, a life that must be lived like a carnival. If we enjoy every moment, it won’t be the Gede who contradict us!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published in October 2022.


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Catch a show with Haitian Vodou rock band RAM

haitian lead singer in band dancing in front of microphone
RAM performing at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: RAM.com

Catch a show with Haitian Vodou rock and roots band RAM

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Every Saturday night at the Hotel Oloffson, the band RAM – a Haitian national treasure – delivers an unforgettable performance of Vodou-infused rock. If you’re not a guest at the hotel or paying for a sit-down dinner, you’ll need to pay an entry fee of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars). The show starts around 10:30. Expect sing-a-longs with an enthusiastic crowd and dancing all night long.

haitian musicians playing on trumpets
RAM performers with vaksin horns
Photo: RAM.com

On the gothic gingerbread verandah of the Oloffson, you can join a decades-long tradition of watching the sun set over Port-au-Prince with a rum sour or rum punch. On Saturday nights, there’s another ritual going on.

Weekly performances by RAM have become a ceremony loved by all levels of society. Remarkably, in a country where consistency is hard to find, the band has consistently gigged at the Oloffson since 1990, when the band’s frontman took over running the hotel. In fact, the band gets its name from the initials of the Oloffson’s owner, Richard Auguste Morse. Morse’s wife, Lunise, is the lead singer and main dancer.

A “Vodou rock and roots” band, RAM incorporates traditional Vodou lyrics and instruments, such as rara horns and Petwo drums, into modern rock-and-roll grooves. Their lyrics are sung in a macaronic medley of Haitian creole, French and English that islanders and diaspora can appreciate especially. To hear it is to connect with a distinctive sound that could only have been born in Haiti.

haitian band performing in front of crowd
RAM performing at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: RAM.com

RAM live: an unmissable experience

First off, expect to see anyone and everyone here. The shows are and have always been attended not just by often-international hotel guests but a diverse spectrum of the country’s political and ethnic groups and subcultures. Humanitarian workers line the front row next to cross-dressed dancers and Haitian artists from nearby downtown neighborhoods. Corner tables are occupied by foreign ambassadors and visiting celebrities, or Grammy award-winning musicians with a love for Haiti.

The lights are few and far between, and often shine out blue and red. Near the permanent stage erected in the heart of the Oloffson mansion, genuine vodouwizan practitioners can be spotted in the throng of dancers. Some of the people in the crowd have been regulars here for 20 years. One woman in a white traditional frock and elaborate satin turban loves to spray sacred flower-scented florida water on the crowd. Many know the lyrics by heart, no matter what decade the song is from. Several people appear to have entered their own worlds, dancing with unearthly vigour, evoking the scenes of ritual possession one might see at a Vodou ceremony or at the Haitian Day of the Dead.

haitian musicians in red and blue dresses performing
RAM performing
Photo: RAM.com

The early days of RAM

The band started in 1990 when Morse negotiated the lease for the Hotel – then very dilapidated. He created a folklore dance troupe along with his wife and a group of musicians – many from the poorer districts of nearby downtown neighborhoods.

RAM prides itself on having deep roots but always adapting to the times. Many of the lyrics have subtle or not-so-subtle political messages. In the new release “Ayiti Leve”, the lyrics (in Kreyòl) say: “Haiti you sleep too much. It’s time to wash your eyes.” The music video shows the corridors of the Oloffson clouded in darkness. The lead singer’s son, William – also bass guitarist for the band – sits on a traditional high-backed wooden chair in the dark. His mother Lunise walks through the french doors and hands him a candle, illuminating his face and the iconic porch behind him.

The Vodou-inspired drumming is classic RAM but this time the visual is unexpected. “Wake up. See where you are,” the lyrics continue. One by one, Lunise places a candle in each of the band members’ hands. It’s the same shadow play that makes visitors of the Oloffson aware they are wading thickly into something unseen.

Their 2020 Carnival song, “Kongo Lazil O (Kan’w Pran Ou Konnen)” marked RAM’s 28th carnival song release, spanning an era that has seen violent revolts, revolutions, and sometimes unpopular public opinions of RAM’s frontman Morse.

During the years of Haiti’s military regime, one of RAM’s songs, “Fèy” (“Leaf” in english), was censored nationally and eventually banned from radio play by the regime, who correctly perceived it to be a song covertly supporting the exiled President Jean-Bertrand Aristide. In defiance of death threats, the band continued to play weekly concerts at the Oloffson – until Morse only narrowly escaped a kidnapping, almost being carried out by junta authorities from the hotel in the middle of a performance in 1994. In 1998, the band’s lyrics offended the newly-elected mayor of Port-au-Prince, and they survived an assasination attempt on their float during a Carnival performance. While the Thursday night performances have been switched to Saturdays in 2020, RAM continues to use their iconic stage as a launch pad for social commentary. The band is loyal to providing lyrical provocation to Haiti’s political landscape.

How to see the show

RAM plays on Saturday nights at the Hotel Oloffson, 60 Ave Christophe, Port-au-Prince, in the neighbourhood of Saint Gérard, just near trendy Pacot.

The show is free for hotel guests and dinner customers. If you’re not sleeping at the hotel or paying for a sit-down dinner, you’ll need to pay an entry fee of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars). The show starts around 10:30 and runs until late.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published November 2020


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Krik-krak! – The Haitian Tradition of Storytelling

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Krik-krak! (and tim-tim!)

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“In my family, we are four, but when one of my brothers and sisters is not there, we can’t do anything…” Do you know the answer?

What you’ve just read is an example of a captivating Haitian cultural tradition known as kont, or “tales”. The scene in which you’ll hear these usually begins at nightfall, when children leave the warmth of their family homes to reunite outside and do what Haitians call tire kont – “telling tales”. These tales aren’t really stories, but rather short charades, each more amusing than the one before, based on the details and small objects of everyday life, and told in very colorful language. The practice of tire kont is often referred to as krik-krak! or tim-tim! because of the call-and-response formula of the charades.

haitian boys sitting in port-au-prince
Boys gathered for Krik-krak storytelling in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

How krik-krak works

The taleteller, the one who usually knows the answer to the charade, signals the start of a charade by calling “Krik!” To this, everyone replies: “Krak!”

When the taleteller says krik, they’re saying, “Prepare yourself, I have something for you to guess.” After people respond with “Krak!”, the taleteller continues: “Tim tim?” and the assembly replies, “Bwa chèch.”

“I may be small, but I have honored the greatest men.”

At this point, it’s up to the fastest person to answer. Suggestions shoot up from every corner: candle? Pen? Notebook? And if no one knows the answer, everyone admits defeat by saying, “Mwen bwè pwa.” Then, and only then, the taleteller reveals the answer to the riddle. Krik-krak is a communal practice that says a lot about Haitian people’s way of life. The tale, just like music and literature, contributes to keeping the Creole language alive and dynamic.

The practice of krik-krak / tim-tim is inherited from Haitians’ ancestors in Africa. In So Spoke the Uncle, Jean Price-Mars explains that similar practices appear in other countries where most of the population is descended from Africa, like Guadeloupe, and that the same krik-krak formula is still in use in some places in Africa.

Alongside riddles, there are also stories told to children and adults that follow the same formula, and which participate in the transmission of Haitian’s collective communal values and morality. Some tales, such as “Tezin” and “Ti Soufri”, are widespread across Haiti. Just like the fables and fairytales, these stories carry moral lessons and reflect social mores.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Haitian storytelling: growing or vanishing?

Orality occupies an extremely important place in Haiti, to the point where even Vodou, the most popular religion, is preserved overwhelmingly through oral traditions, including a strictly oral form of literature called odyans. The Haitian tale puts in perspective ways of life of the lower class and of people living in the countryside, where themes such as ownership, death, inheritance and family resurface often – familiar themes in European fairytales, which likewise often centre on the rural working-class. Although the social rite of telling stories around campfires is older than history itself, and the Haitian call-and-response guessing game is anchored in ancient African modes of storytelling, krik-krak! stands out as a unique treasure of Haitian culture, and one that both reflects and co-creates Haitian society.

However, since kont are handed down generation through generation orally, some rarely-told tales are at risk of disappearing…

haitian boys sitting together laughing
Boys gathered for krik-krak storytelling in Bois Moquette – Photo: Franck Fontain

There’s a Krik-krak! festival in March, and you’re invited!

Since 2009, an annual storytelling festival called Kont Anba Tonèl – the Intercultural Festival of Tales – has been hosted in Port-au-Prince as well as Jérémie and other provincial cities. Held every March, starting on World Story Day (March 20), the festival is largely an effort to showcase Haitian modes of storytelling, keeping the practice of krik-krak! alive. And it seems to be working – more and more comedians are turning to a career of professional taleteller, and some radio stations recover audio files of tales, archiving them to hold them in safekeeping for the future generations we hope will continue the practice.

If you visit Haiti during the last two weeks of the month of March, you’ll be able to attend the Kont Anba Tonèl festival and immerse yourself in an ancestral practice. Expect to hear a wealth of tales, attend talks by professional tale-collectors, and participate in workshops teaching many modes of storytelling, including krik-krak!. On that note…

Krik? Gets dressed to the nines to stay at home?”
Krak! The bed, of course…”


Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2020


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Dondon grottoes

view from inside a cave with vines in entrance
View of Dondon from inside a grotto
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dondon grottoes

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Located in the mountains of northern Haiti, Dondon has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno peoples lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

vodou symbol painted on a cave floor
Vodou vèvè inside a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

The grottoes

Dondon’s spectacular cave system has ten separate grottoes. Some are easy to access and have a given name: Ladies’ Vault, Marc-Antoine grotto, Smoke Vault, Cadelia Vault, Saint Martin Vault, Minguet Vault and Michel grotto, all named because of their individual history.

Some of these caves were Taíno cult locations during the pre-colombian period, where the Taínos would come to pray to their gods. One of the gods prayed to in times of drought is still visible on the walls of the grotto, and in post-colonial times is venerated by vodouwizan as an important figure within vodou. The other grottoes remain unnamed, their histories steeped in mystery.

Guided tours

Many Dondon area locals – young and old – are happy to jump into the role of guide for the grottoes. Some have learned by heart formulas in French and English, which can make for charming – if confusing – conversation.

Experienced and impromptu guides will be more than happy to help you discover the best spots, hidden petroglyphs and the history infusing these grottoes – some of this history only survives as stories handed down from generation to generation, so you won’t find it anywhere else.

haitian man sitting on donkey drinking in river
A man on a donkey by Riviere Bouyaja in Dondon
Photo: Anton Lau

Festivals in Dondon

Every town in Haiti has its own patron saint festival. In Dondon, pilgrims come from far and wide to celebrate Saint Martin of Tours. Some come here to party, others come as tourists to observe, but most are here to honor the Vodou divinities, the lwa believed to live here. The patron saint festival of Saint Martin of Tours happens in Dondon on November 9 – 11, but party preparations start on November 7. For five days, crowds filter into Dondon to savor kleren, eat delicious griot, and dance to troubadour music from morning ‘til night.

There is also the Dondon Festival, held from July 18 to 23. This festival is about Dondon itself rather than lwa, and draws vacationers who come to take advantage of the great swimming spots in nearby rivers, go on excursions and participate in the conferences that take place for the occasion.

What else is nearby?

Dondon is close to the UNESCO World Heritage Sans-Souci Palace and Citadelle Laferrière, which locals call the eighth wonder of the world. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any visit to Haiti, and the journey there is well-worth the effort.

Fort Moïse, on top of the Saint Martin Vault, is also close by. Other attractions include the Kota waterfall and the historical Vincent Ogé residence. The on-site coffee co-op at the residence is a great place to taste the very particular flavor of Haitian coffee.

cave entrance with vines and trees
Overgrown entrance to a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to the Dondon grottoes

Dondon is located in the north of Haiti, about a two hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien. The journey to Dondon will take you over roads that are winding and can be pretty rough in places. On paper (or GPS), the route through the town of Saint-Michel might look good, but that road serves up more adventure than most travellers are looking for, and we don’t recommended it. The best way to get to Dondon we’ve found is this one:

From Port-au-Prince, drive out of the capital towards Cap-Haïtien via Route Nationale #1. The road to Cap-Haïtien makes up the longest chunk of the drive, but its recent completion makes it a comfortable trip, not to mention a scenic one, with many towns to stop in along the way, each with their own character. Once in Cap-Haïtien, continue towards the town of Milot. Make a left after you pass Rivière du Nord, and in another hour or so you’ll arrive at Dondon.

There’s no formal fee to see the caves but you’ll need to hire a (formal or informal) guide. Remember to bring food and drinks with you for the trip as there’s no guarantee you’ll find anything on site, although Lakou Lakay is a great place to stop for lunch if you’re travelling via Milot.


Written by Jean Fils and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2020


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Vodou Pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau

crowd of haitians standing under a huge waterfall
Pilgrims gathering beneath the Saut d’Eau waterfalls
Photo: Franck Fontain

On the trail of the Vodou pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau

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Haitian culture – we mention it a lot here at Visit Haiti, but what is it, exactly?

Haitian culture is a cluster of concepts, practices and identities, including the Kreyol (Haitian Creole) language, a set of morals, everyday customs, the history of the modern nation of Haiti (as well as the interrelated history of the Dominican Republic and the island of Hispaniola as a whole), and the Haitian religion – Vodou.

Spelled Vodou to distinguish it from the voodoo traditions of Louisiana and elsewhere in the African diaspora, Haitian Vodou is born out of the unique mix of many African religious practices with christianity, all of which were transported here to Haiti during the colonial period.

According to sales archives preserved from the colonial era (and still accessible in private collections or at the National Library of France), we learn that plantations often held slaves of up to ten different ethnicities. This included members of the island’s indigenous Taíno people, few of whom had survived the brutal regime of colonisation and enslavement up to that point. Colonial plantation owners were recommended to hold slaves from different ethnicities together on the same plantation, so that they’d have nothing in common but the color of their skin. People thrown together on Haitian plantations included Fon (Dahomey) people from Benin, Congo and elsewhere. In The Mysteries of VodouLaennec Hurbon explains that the word Vodou comes from the language spoken in Benin and means “invisible and formidable power”.

This multiculturalism allowed Haitian Vodou to acquire over the course of the years characteristics that are its own, and awards it all the richness it has today. One of the roots of this richness is the religious syncretism that allowed African practices to graft themselves to Christianity as well as to the indigenous practices that already existed on the island. From there, the Christian saints became vodou lwas and Christian celebrations transformed into Vodou ceremonies and celebrations.

One of these celebrations is the annual pilgrimage to honor the Miraculous Virgin of Saut d’Eau at the magical Saut d’Eau waterfall (spelled Sodo in Kreyol).

haitian girl sitting behind table with merchandise for sale
Vendor selling offer gifts at Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

The Miraculous Virgin of Saut d’Eau

Popular in Vodou spaces around Haiti, the Miraculous Virgin of Saut d’Eau is renowned for bringing luck in love and in economic transactions. You’ll also find her venerated under the names Saint Anne (Mother of the Virgin Mary in the Christian tradition) or Little Saint Anne (Kreyol: Ti Sent Án) or Miraculous Virgin.

Every year from July 14 to 16, devotees from across Haiti make a pilgrimage to the Saut d’Eau waterfall, located 60 miles north of Port-au-Prince. The event also attracts curious travellers from around the world, who want to witness this one-of-a-kind Vodou pilgrimage.

haitian pilgrims during a spiritual ritual by waterfall
Pilgrims bathing at Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

How to invoke the favor of the Miraculous Virgin

To obtain the Miraculous Virgin’s favor, Vodou practitioners travel to the sacred Saut d’Eau waterfall to conduct a purification ritual. Most practitioners make the pilgrimage in summer, but the ritual is possible at any time of the year.

The ritual is called a “luck bath”. The devotee journeys to the cult site with a calabash (a water flask made from a gourd) as well as gifts to offer to the goddess, before disrobing and diving under the magnificent Saut d’Eau waterfall. Devotees carry a small collection of leaves, plants, and herbs linked to the goddess and believed to have therapeutic virtues. If they want to, the supplicants can also bring orgeat syrup, perfume or flowers, or prepare a meal to offer as a pledge of their good faith and their loyalty to the lwa.

Once the preparations are complete, the supplicant bathes under the waterfall (either alone or with the help of an ougan (Vodou priest)), washing while invoking the protection and virtues of the goddess. It is critical, at the end of this ceremony, to break the calabash that served to carry water from the waterfall to wash oneself and to leave in the water the clothes which the supplicant had worn to the site – these represent their past bad luck. Instead, devotees leave dressed in new clothes, and hopefully imbued with the goddess’ protection and luck for the future.

crowd of haitians preparing for a spiritual bath by waterfall
Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

Make a pilgrimage of your own

Intrigued? Although it’s one of the most sacred sites in Haiti, Saut d’Eau is not cut off from the curious. Travellers are welcome to visit the waterfall any time of year. Whether you want to try your luck at invoking the lwa‘s favor, or just enjoy the experience of bathing under an incredible freshwater waterfall, framed by gorgeous forest filled with birdsong, you’re welcome to make a pilgrimage of your own to this very special place.

Saut d’Eau waterfall (spelled Sodo in Kreyol) is located 60 miles north of Port-au-Prince, near Mirebalais. The pilgrimage happens from July 14 to 16, but the site is open to visitors year-round (road conditions allowing).

The magnificent Saut d’Eau waterfall is just one of many mystical sites used for the Vodou luck bath ritual, including Bassin Saint Jacques and the gorgeous Bassin Bleu.

haitian woman in blue dress with small child in straw hat
Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published February 2020


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