Beaches & Islands

Raymond les Bains

May 10, 2019 by admin

haitians relaxing and dining at table with parasols by beach — Raymond les Bains, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Raymond les Bains

Just a few hours’ south of Port-au-Prince, the colorful city of Jacmel is best known for its beautiful, expansive beaches. Raymond les Bains is a local favorite, and an attraction not to be missed if you’re in Jacmel. You’ll find a mile-long stretch of soft white sand, framed by palm trees and mountains in the distance.

Like most of the beaches lining Haiti’s stunning southern coast, Raymond les Bains has a nice, gradual slope into the water and soft, smooth sand. On bright, sunny days (Jacmel sees 230 a year) Raymond les Bains is a textbook example of a Caribbean paradise.

Raymond les Bains is also a popular night time attraction. There is a lot more music, more to drink, and the atmosphere is much more fit for dancing and meeting new people! If you are lucky, you might even catch a full moon reflected on the Caribbean Sea.

Don’t miss: the freshly-grilled fish

For seafood lovers, the highlight of Raymond les Bains might be the food. Grilled fish is a local specialty and the menu is teeming with options.

To order, visitors can take a seat at any table on the beach. Expect to be approached by merchants selling all sorts – gum, drinks, snacks, jewellery – but keep an eye for the waiter or waitress at the restaurant. Our top tip is to ask to see the fish before you settle on your order; different price points get you different fish; and even at a specific price point, you still get to pick from a variety of fish.

You can ask if there is a choice of accompaniment for the fish; most places offer the standard fried plantains or fried potatoes. Depending on the season, you might even find fried breadfruit – a Caribbean delicacy not to be missed. This fried tropical staple provides a crisp, savory contrast to mouth-watering freshly-grilled fish, elevating what sounds like a simple, everyday dish to a memorable island experience.

Getting there

8 miles east of downtown Jacmel, Raymond les Bains is en route to Cayes-Jacmel and Marigot.

Look out for the “Bienvenue à Raymond les Bains” signage on the right side of the road. From there, the road dips and narrows down a sandy path flanked by small houses on the left, and the sound of slow waves crashing on the beach on the right. Continue on until you reach the gate – and gatekeepers.

Because it is a public beach cleaned and maintained by the locals, Raymond les Bains is gated, and does require a small fee to enter. Expect to pay at least 100 HTG per car. Once that is taken care of, you will be asked to enter and park your car off to the side.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2019

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Explore the south of Haiti

Explore the enchanting ruins of Fort Saint-Louis

March 9, 2019 by admin

Tree roots growing down into the ruined passages of Fort des Anglais, Haiti — Fort Saint-Louis, Haiti
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore the enchanting ruins of Fort Saint-Louis

A microcosm of Haitian history

The overgrown ruins of this 300 year-old French-built fort will enchant visitors for hours (and archaeologists for days), but to get there you’ll need to hire a boat.

Fort Saint-Louis stands on an islet in the Bay of St Louis, and is accessible via a short boat ride from Fort de Olivier, a fortress on the nearby peninsula of Saint Louis du Sud. Constructed at the same time, these two forts are often called ‘sisters,’ and are two of many strategically dotted along the coastline.

Just outside the seaside fortress, an abandoned shipwreck peeks up from underwater. For locals, this shipwreck is a microcosm of Haitian history. Across the country, relics of more dangerous times dot the landscape, their defences now serving to preserve cultural memories instead of material treasure, and changing over time as the years and the tropical storms assert their strength.

Aerial photo of shipwreck at Fort des Anglais, Haiti — Abandoned shipwreck at Fort Saint-Louis
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The extensive ruins of modern-day Fort Saint-Louis rise steeply from a craggy islet, the curtain wall of stone now thickly overgrown with vines and trees that blow in the tropic coastal breeze. After three hundred years of equatorial sunshine, sea salt and hurricanes, the outline of the fort is in remarkably good condition, and it’s still possible to walk through its many chambers and admire the original carved features set into the outer walls. You can still walk through some of the caves originally networked into the fortress.

Walking under the arches of the structure of the fort with branches and lianas hanging left and right feels surreal; it is almost as though you are one of the shift guards, waiting for the British to invade at any moment. Although severely weathered, the fort feels as towering and as imposing as it must have been three centuries ago.

Fort Saint-Louis
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Built in 1702 by French occupiers, Fort Saint-Louis was designed to defend the Haitian territory against their colonial competitors – namely the British Empire. In 1748, less than fifty years later, the was captured by the British. As a result, it’s now known as Fort des Anglais by many locals.

The southern coastline of Haiti was hotly contested in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as a foothold from which to defend the country’s riches. Although modern Haiti is known for its pristine beaches, colonial-era Haiti made a name for itself in European cities through the high-quality goods brought back by traders returning from its shores. Fort Saint-Louis was built just five years after the French and Spanish divided up the island of Hispaniola into two separate countries – Dominican Republic on the East and Haiti on the West.

Person stands on the bow of a boat to Fort des Anglais, Haiti — Boat to Fort Saint-Louis
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

Fort des Oliviers is located on a small peninsula in Saint Louis du Sud. From there, Fort Saint-Louis is on a small island a short boat ride away. For a small fee, the local sailors offer their boats – and often times, dugout canoes – as a mode of transportation.

Get the most out of your visit

Tour guides, who often live nearby in Saint Louis du Sud, or in the areas surrounding Fort des Oliviers, are always ready to provide their services by accompanying visitors and talking them through the history of the fort and the features that have stood the test of time.

Today, Fort Saint-Louis stands as a testament to a period in time and a state of mind that permeate the way modern Haitians understand and process their history.

Walking through the fort with someone who lives the complexity of that history is the best way to gain a nuanced understanding of what this beautiful ruin means.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published March 2019

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The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

January 25, 2019 by admin

A green yacht in aqua waters just off the beach at Port Salut, Haiti — Beach at Port Salut, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

Looking for a quick getaway or an island escape?

We’ve rounded up a list of the best destinations for you to kick your feet up, relax, and enjoy the best Haiti’s coasts have to offer!

All of the destinations listed here can be reached by car – it’s easy to hire one in Port-au-Prince, but book ahead if you can. For an adventurous traveller fluent in French or Kreol, a journey via tap-tap to either Jacmel or Cap-Haïtien is an experience you won’t find anywhere else in the world, but for first-time visitors, we recommend hiring a car or driver.

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise hotel and restaurant in Jacmel, Haiti — Alliance Francaise in Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

01. Jacmel

For international travellers, Jacmel is famous mostly for its annual carnival. Located in the south, with a vibrant festival and music scene steeped in history, and plenty of bars to choose from, Jacmel might be considered Haiti’s New Orleans.

From beautiful beaches to fantastic festivals and an endless array of artistic expression, this city is the cultural capital of Haiti. Just a two-hour drive southwest of Port-au-Prince, Jacmel is also one of the most accessible destinations.

Around 15km east of Jacmel you’ll find the fishing village of Cayes-Jacmel, where most of the rocking chairs you’ll see around Haiti are made. A few more kilometers east and you’ll come to Plage Ti Mouillage, a stunning white-sand beach framed by coconut palms, with a bar stocked with ice-cold drinks and fresh seafood.

Further east, you’ll find gorgeous Marigot. A coffee-growing town, Marigot has rated several times in Haiti’s top-ten communes. For a very reasonable price, you can wake up in an excellent boutique hotel with ocean views, the sounds of roosters crowing, and the smell of home-grown coffee roasting.

Lounge chairs beneath trees at Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve, Haiti — Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve
Photo: Anton Lau

02. Village Taino, Grand-Goâve

Two hours west of Port-au-Prince is a small oasis, nestled among the tall trees of Grand-Goâve. Grand-Goâve is one of the oldest settlements in Haiti – its name dates back to the Amerindians who called it home before the arrival of Spanish colonists in the 16th century.

Village Taino is a set of beachside bungalows that opens up on the powdery sands of Haiti’s southern peninsula. If you like your beach escapes to be secluded and exclusive, you will enjoy the privacy of the bungalows, as well as the daily catered seafood, caught and cooked on location.

Hotel Royal Decameron on the Cote des Arcadins
Photo: Bowerbill, Wikimedia Commons

03. Royal Decameron, Montrouis

Looking for world-class beachside relaxation? Royal Decameron, smack in the middle of the Arcadins coast, is your go-to for an all-inclusive experience in Haiti. With spacious rooms, swimming pools, authentic Haitian food, and recurring activities to keep you entertained throughout the days and evenings, it really is the easiest place to go for a weekend of unscripted relaxation and fun!

beach with people swimming and small wooden boat — People swiming at Amani-y Beach in Saint-Marc
Photo: Franck Fontain

04. Amani-y Beach, Saint-Marc

Looking for something outside the popular beach resorts of the Arcadins coast? Amani-y Beach may be the treasure you seek. Located close by La Colline Hotel, it is one of Saint-Marc’s most picturesque beaches. Surrounded by the tree-clad hills that border Baie de Sant-Marc, clear blue waters stretch out for miles. Amani-y Beach offers all of the island flair with none of the touristic fuss.

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti — Cap Haitien Labadi
Photo: Verdy Verna

05. Cap-Haïtien

Accessible via car, if you’re into sightseeing; tap-tap, if you’re here for adventure; or plane if you can’t wait to get there, Cap-Haïtien is one of those cities you need a couple of days set aside to explore.

The beach of Cormier is one of the most underappreciated on the island – and only about twenty minutes away from the main city by car. The food options on the main boulevard, which you can walk to from most hotels, are mouthwatering and many – Lakay? Boukanye? Cap Deli? Barik? Lolo? Come hungry!

Deck chair under a thatch umbrella at Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti — Abaka Bay, Ile-a-vache, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

06. Abaka Bay Resort, Île-à-Vache

Île-à-Vache is a magical place. Ever wondered what it would be like to live on a small island, just enjoying the pleasures of the sea lapping at your feet under a palm tree? Abaka Bay Resort is the place for you. Between horseback riding, kayaking, and peaceful walks on the shore in the evening, you might even find time to finish your book. This is an enchanting destination for travellers seeking quality rest and relaxation.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2019

Top things to see in Haiti

Gelée Beach

December 27, 2018 by Editor

Gelée Beach

Situated in the heart of the Caribbean, between Cuba and the Dominican Republic, Haiti has over a thousand miles of coastline with dozens of destination-worthy beaches.

We’re talking white sand and turquoise water swelling up to coconut palms, chalk cliffs or jungle-clad mountains rolling off into the distance. Whether you choose one of the island’s most treasured coves or one of its many undiscovered wonders, the water here is warm all year round.

Gelée Beach

Located near Les Cayes in southern Haiti, Gelée Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Haiti. Highlights including the beachside fritay merchants and the chance to see cows grazing in fields that reach almost to the water’s edge. Compared to other popular beaches in Haiti, the surrounds are flat and open. Pastoral scenery notwithstanding, the water is tropical and the swimming here is lush.

The beach itself winds around the southern coastline for miles, with soft, pillowy sand melting into some of the most crystal clear waters you’ll find anywhere on the island – or in the Caribbean, for that matter.

Grab a bite

Colorful shacks of food vendors dot the treeline. The number of them is a testament to how popular Gelee beach is and how good the seafood is here. If you’ve already tried Haitian cuisine in Port-au-Prince, you’ll be familiar with the fried plantains and meat – typically called fritay, but don’t miss the chance to try the locally-caught seafood.

If you find the queues for the beachside food overwhelming, you’ll find a choice of restaurants and hotels a short drive from the beach.

At night, Gelée transforms into a lively, well-lit destination for dinner by the shore. The broad boulevard fills with music and foot traffic. People flock to the beach for Gelée’s specialty – grilled fish with fried plantains. Avoid a long wait by going with a local who can walk right up to their vendor of choice and order the right way.

Watch our video of the twoubadou band Tet Ansanm Twouba from Gelée Beach.

Getting there

Gelée beach is a twenty minute drive from downtown Les Cayes. As city gives way to surf, the road gives way to a sandy dirt track. Park off Route de Gelee and walk through the main entrance to the beach – the one closest to the bars and music – to be welcomed by the most picturesque view of the beach.

When to go

Every year, on August 15, the residents of Les Cayes celebrate Patron Saint festival of Our Lady of the Assumption. Thousands of people from all parts of Haiti and from the diaspora come to Les Cayes to participate in the festivities. If August 15 falls on a Friday, some extend their stay to the whole weekend.

During the festival, music can be heard from every rooftop, sidewalk, and front door of the city. There are plenty of activities for kids, and the highlight is the kite building and flying contest in Gelée, where adults and children come together. Kite-flying is hugely popular in Haiti, and has an entire season dedicated to it: kite season!

For a vibrant slice of Haitian summer life, August 15 is the perfect time to visit Gelée and Les Cayes.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

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Haiti’s Best Beaches & Islands

Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

October 16, 2018 by Editor

Fort des Oliviers, Haiti, seen from off the coast — Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

The gorgeous bay of Saint Louis is home to one of the most famous relics of Haiti’s colonial past.

On a rocky peninsula just a short walk from Saint Louis du Sud, Fort des Oliviers dates back to the start of the eighteenth century.

A glimpse of the past

As you walk past cannons propped on stones, your mind will wander back to the time of double-breasted military uniforms and rifles. Staircases ascend and descend to the upper and interior levels of the fort – or the parts of it that have been preserved despite the elements. Wandering up the stairs, under archways and around the ancient artillery allows you to glimpse the experience of construction workers – both French and Haitian, who – more than three hundred years ago – put each of these stones into place.

Exploring the ruins of Fort des Oliviers, visitors can get a sense for the colonial era in which it was built. Three centuries have suffused the weathered walls of the fort with character. The stone has been softened and polished by the salt air and waves. Fort des Oliviers is as much a product of the coastal landscape as it is of those who built it.

If you are looking to deepen your understanding of Haiti’s colonial history, a visit to Fort des Oliviers is absolutely in order!

Palm trees on the way to Fort des Oliviers, Haiti — Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Franck Fontain

Steeped in history

Built in 1702, Fort des Oliviers was built by French occupiers to defend the Haitian territory against their colonial competitors – namely the British Empire. Unfortunately for the French, the British did indeed take over Fort des Oliviers about fifty years later, and established it as a pit-stop port for British ships to rest and refuel their crews.

The southern coastline of Haiti was hotly contested in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as a foothold from which to defend the country’s riches. Although modern Haiti is known for its pristine beaches, colonial-era Haiti made a name for itself in European cities through the high-quality goods brought back by traders returning from its shores. Fort des Oliviers was built just a few years after the French and Spanish divided up the island of Hispaniola into two separate countries – Dominica on the East and Haiti on the West.

The living heritage of relics like Fort des Oliviers make it impossible to separate the insistent natural beauty of the landscape from the history that has shaped modern Haiti as a living, breathing organism. This sense of identity and purpose is what drives the carnival attitude and lust for life that sets Haiti apart as one of the best places to visit in the Caribbean.

If you’re thirsty for more adventure, you’ll find another old fortress on an islet in the bay visible from Fort des Oliviers. This is Fort Saint-Louis, constructed at the same time as Fort des Oliviers. The islet is also home to an abandoned shipwreck famous among locals.

Fort Saint-Louis is accessible via a short boat ride from the coast.

Getting there

Fort des Oliviers is a short walk from the township of Saint-Louis-du-Sud. While you’re in town, get directions to the highway side market and sample some of the famous street food. If you only try one thing, look for the lady selling Lam Veritab Fri (fried breadfruit). Although on the plate fried breadfruit looks a lot like fried plantain, you’ll notice the texture is very different. A starchy relative of the jackfruit, breadfruit is delicious, and this lady makes some of the best in all Haiti. Best served piled high with a serving of spicy pikliz.

From the western edge of town, you can walk along the waterline, and over the palm-shaded peninsula that leads to the fort. The upper level features areas that are open and level enough to sit and enjoy a picnic and a peaceful moment spent disconnecting from city life. A stone’s throw away is a beach for you to sit back, relax and dip your toes in the bay of Saint of Louis.

You’ll find local tour guides happy to lead you through Fort des Oliviers – for a small fee. Getting a fuller understanding of the reasons why Haiti’s southern coast was often caught in a tug-of-war is one of the best ways to sharpen your appreciation of all the things the island has to offer.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Beaches & Islands

Raymond les Bains

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Don’t miss: the freshly-grilled fish

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Getting there

Find Raymond les Bains

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Explore the south of Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Explore the enchanting ruins of Fort Saint-Louis

A microcosm of Haitian history

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Getting there

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Get the most out of your visit

Find Fort Saint-Louis

External Links

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Recommended

Paradise for your inbox

The best Haitian getaways for a long weekend

Looking for a quick getaway or an island escape?

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

01. Jacmel

02. Village Taino, Grand-Goâve

03. Royal Decameron, Montrouis

start your day the Haitian way

04. Amani-y Beach, Saint-Marc

05. Cap-Haïtien

06. Abaka Bay Resort, Île-à-Vache

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Top things to see in Haiti

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Gelée Beach

From Our Land to Your Home

Gelée Beach

Grab a bite

Getting there

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

When to go

Find Gelée Beach

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The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Haiti’s Best Beaches & Islands

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Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

The gorgeous bay of Saint Louis is home to one of the most famous relics of Haiti’s colonial past.

start your day the Haitian way

A glimpse of the past

Steeped in history

From Our Land to Your Home

Getting there

Find Fort des Oliviers

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start your day
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