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Photo Journal: Fèt Gede – A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

crowd gathered at haitian cemetery with big cross for fet gede ritual
Crowd gathered for Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fèt Gede: A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

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Every November in Haiti, there are festivities held throughout the month that, for an outsider, might seem, well, quite strange! In particular, the Fête Gede (Day of the Dead) and All Saint’s Day involve unsettling processions to the cemetery of each town around the country.

The crowd that gathers is a varied group, comprising people who are simply curious as well as people of all different faiths, including Hatian Vodou. They join together to walk to the main cemetery in each town, all the while following the unique spectacle that the procession offers. And what is this spectacle, exactly? Practitioners of Vodou taken over by the Gede, the spirits for whom these stunning celebrations in Haiti are held.

vodou practitioner holding a machete and colorful handkerchiefs
A Vodou practitioner celebrating Fèt Gede, Gonaïves Cemetary
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In Vodou spirituality, the Gede are the spirits of the dead. They are responsible for accompanying the dead on the path toward the other world, but also of watching over the living. They thus constitute the bridge between the world of the living and the world of the dead. Two major Gede deities in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Baron Samedi and Grann Brigitte.

gravestone at haitian cemetery during fet gede ritual
Fèt Gede rituals at the cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Those possessed by the gede spirits set the festival’s tone, which is truly carnivalesque. You might hear some rough language, see some dirty dancing, and witness other extravagant performances. All of these provide plenty of entertainment for the more docile crowd that follows along.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
A Vodou temple inside the Cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fueled by alcohol, as well as hot pepper-based infusions that they sprinkle on their bodies, the procession heads toward the main cemetery. Overtaken by the spirits of the dead, the possessed swear and carry out quite a remarkable performance.

gravestone at haitian cemetery with two soda bottles and flowers
Offerings on a gravestone during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The spectacle of the procession attracts quite a crowd, and the possessed are easily recognizable due to the ritual colors of Baron Samedi that they wear (white, black, and purple). Some even cover themselves entirely with white powder or draw gloomy scenes on their bodies. Others choose to wear the preferred attire of Baron Samedi, which includes a black hat, monocle, and cane. Altogether, this creates a true Carnival of the Dead that happens every year in Haitian cemeteries.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
Preparation during Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

This Festival of the Dead, which comprises rituals and dances all November long, testifies to the intimate link that exists between the world of the living and the world of the dead in Vodou spirituality. For practitioners of Vodou,  Fête Gede is really more like a celebration of life. The gede spirits who return via their hosts during possession can attest to this way of thinking. They are brought to life by joy and are spirits who love to laugh, dance, and have fun.

haitian vodou practitioner dancing at fet gede ritual with crowd watching
Vodou practitioners during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

All of these wild performances have just one objective: to amuse. The festival is not a moment for tears or regrets but rather a time to honor the memory of the departed. Part of this involves preparing for the festival by cleaning the cemeteries and restoring the tombs.

Those who have sailed for “the land without a hat” — a Haitian expression that means the “beyond,” because no one is buried with their hat — remain present in daily life and are nonetheless celebrated as they should be during this festival given in their honor. In Vodou spirituality, those who have set sail for the world of the dead maintain an important role in everyday life. The spirits of those who have passed on, bearing the name Gede, are respected as guardians, advisors, or vengeful spirits by those who remain.

The Fête Gede festival in Haiti is somewhat similar to the Day of the Dead as practiced in other parts of the world (e.g. Dia de los Muertos). The difference, however, lies in the place that the dead occupy in Vodou belief and in the syncretism underlying the various beliefs that Haitians hold.

haitian cemetery with sculpture and blue sky with clouds
Monument for the Gede spirit Brave, Gonaïves Cemetery
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

As a legacy of ancestral African traditions, Vodou reserves an important place for those who have departed this world for the next. In the procession of the Gede, different people portray different divinities, including Baron Samedi, Baron Lacroix, Baron Criminel, Grann Brigitte, and all the other Gede spirits. Much more than simple guardians of death and graveyards, the Gede are also guardians of life.

As such, the celebration of Fèt Gede is not just a celebration to commemorate the dead, but a celebration where the dead can take part by way of possession in the form of Gede spirits.

haitians gathered at cemetery for fet gede vodou ritual
A Vodou Priestess heading a ceremony for the spirit Brave Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

At the main cemetery in Port-au-Prince, where the biggest iteration of this festival is held each year, Catholics come to pray for the souls of their deceased at the small chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, Protestants come to gather at the graves of their lost loved ones, and practitioners of Vodou come for the largest celebration of the Fête Gede festival in all of Haiti.

haitian vodou practitioners lighting a candle during fet gede
A Vodou ritual at a ceremony during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The festival is at the very crossroads of Haiti’s religious syncretism, with Catholics and Protestants joining the procession to the cemeteries, all worshiping differently but each bearing the same thoughts for the departed, thoughts colored by the beliefs on which these extraordinary celebrations are based.

haitian vodou practitioner at cemetery wearing a black and purple dress
A Vodou ceremony for the Brave Gede spirit during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Even if Fèt Gede is held on and around All Saint’s Day and the Day of the Dead, it’s a much different celebration than ones that you might see elsewhere. It’s a true moment of communion between the dead and the living, the latter of whom brings coffee, roasted corn, cassava, clairin (rum), or the favorite dish of the lost loved one.

haitian man holding a part of a human skull for fet gede
Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

One might even be tempted to say that Fèt Gede is much more than a simple set of practices based on certain beliefs about death — rather, it constitutes a genuine philosophy of life, a life that must be lived like a carnival. If we enjoy every moment, it won’t be the Gede who contradict us!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published in October 2022.


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Quiz – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

handpainted haitian boardgame with soccer players
Haitian board game in Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Test Your Knowledge – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

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Ever been to Haiti? Yes, no, maybe so? Regardless, we hope you find this quiz fun and informative. If you’re a new visitor, hopefully this quiz will inspire you to experience Haiti up close! Let’s test your knowledge on the ins and outs with these 18 cultural facts about Haiti.


Let’s test your knowledge on these cultural facts about Haiti

How did it go? If you’re feeling brave like Toussaint Louverture our “How Haitian are you?” Quiz is just right for you! If you want to access your inner Captain Morgan try our “Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?” Quiz!


Created by Zachary Warr.

Published December 2021.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

dramatic haitian coastline with jungle forest and speed boat
Anse Baguette beach near Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

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If you’re anything like us, the need for you to connect or even be in Haiti at this moment in time has been stronger than ever before. The last sixteen months have proven to be challenging in ways both familiar and new, and have pushed us to adapt in ways we never would’ve thought possible. As Haiti weathers the storms of the ongoing pandemic, sociopolitical unrest, and the assassination of former president Jovenel Moïse, the feeling of longing for Haiti—and in a way, for those on the island who make us feel like we’re home—is hard to fight off.

Since July 7, Haiti has felt like a liminal space where no one is quite sure where to stand or how to behave. The news of Jovenel Moïse’s assassination shook the capital as hard as it did the surrounding cities and far-away provinces. In the days following the killing, the streets of Port-au-Prince were quieter than they usually are on Sundays; worry and anticipation tainted the air, and people hesitated to venture outside for fear of what would happen next. Even though in the days since, things seem to have regained some kind of normalcy, it is very clear to everyone in Haiti that there is no going “back to normal” at the moment.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings
Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

This leaves people like us—and people like you, too, who are enamored with Haiti, and who want nothing but to run and embrace the island—lost and confused. If the pandemic wasn’t a good time to travel to Haiti for just any reason, the recent events are even more reason to rethink purchasing a plane ticket. Just like you may be anxious to fly in for your summer vacation, we are anxious to recommend that you do so.

What we feel comfortable and eager doing, though, is recommending that you visit Haiti from home.

Right here, on Visit Haiti.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat
Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Cook Your Way Through the Island

One of our favorite things about Haiti is how accessible the country’s history and culture is through its cuisine. A lot of Haitian fruit is accessible in foreign markets, like the unmistakable Haitian mango; consider shopping at your local Caribbean shop for some of our favorite summer flavors. This is also the perfect opportunity to order some of the best rum Haiti has to offer and consider a home tasting. We love how these rums shine next to Haiti’s hall-of-fame dishes, too.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Bring the Outside Inside

If you’re a lover of nature, you might enjoy trying to spot some of Haiti’s wildlife in your neighborhood on the weekend. You’ll be pleased to know that Haiti is home to some really awesome forests, such as Forêt des Pins, too— which you’ll definitely want to put down on your list of places to see on your next trip. We have good news for avid birdwatchers, too: you can probably spot some of Haiti’s winged wildlife where you live.

A woman wearing a bikini relaxes in a window holding a book
Book reading in Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

Learn the Colors of Haiti’s Culture

Now is also a good time to read up on the richness of Haitian heritage and culture, which is sure to taint every step you take around the island as soon as you’re able to travel to Haiti again. We highly recommend checking out what to do at a vodou ceremony, or where to meet and buy from Haiti’s finest metal-workers. And until you can safely make it to the island, our How Haitian Are You quiz and Best books about Haiti Reading List are a good way to make sure you stay on your toes by the time your next trip comes around.

aerial view of coastal village with market area and boats
Sun rising over the port of Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Visit Haiti, Right From Your Screen

One of the ways we are excited to help you visit Haiti from the comfort of your home is through our photo journals. Tag along on a visual and virtual tour of the island. Our photo journals come courtesy of Haitian photographers, and feature different regions all over the country. Right now, you can take a mini-trip to Saint-MarcGrand’Anse, or even Marigot.

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf
Ann-Sophie in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Ted Olivier Mompérousse

Meet Haiti, Meet the Locals

In another effort to bring you closer to Haiti and its resilient, inspiring, and bright people, we are also pumped to introduce you to our Meet the Locals series. It’s no secret that Haiti and Haitians carry a bold streak; it shows in the food, and it shows in the music. What we want to share is how each individual Haitian contributes to painting the colorful picture that is Haiti today. You can start here, by reading our interview with Ann-Sophie Hamilton, a sustainable tourism advocate.

And watch our video where we speak to Isaac, a painter from Dame-Marie.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2021


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Haitian Vodou Revealed

vodou priestess kneeling on floor in a huge and colorful dress
Vodou priestess Manbo Nini, Jacmel
Photo: Verdy Verna

Haitian Vodou Revealed

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Vodou originated in the African kingdoms of Fon and Kongo as many as 6,000 years ago. In modern Haiti, this spiritual practice is a creolized version that incorporates Amerindian Taíno and Arawak deities, Medieval Catholic influences, and even Masonic rituals!

By and large, people associate Vodou* with evil, devil worship, and violent animal sacrifice. But many of its rituals (even those that include the sacrifice of live animals) focus on restoring peace and balance – in families, communities, and between the human realm and the realms of the lwa – the spirits.

Vodou religious leaders are respected figures in their communities, providing guidance, settling disputes, and providing medical care in the form of herbal healing. Priests – oungan – and priestesses – manbo – dedicate their lives to helping others and assisting them in serving their lwa. People who practice Vodou are known as vodouwizan, vodouisants (French), or in Haitian Kreyòl, sèvitè – “servants of the spirits”.

As Haitian nationals and the Haitian diaspora in Canada, the United States, and France become more open about their practice of Vodou, the truth about this enigmatic spiritual practice is slowly being revealed to the world. This is a story of how a spiritual tradition designed to heal and maintain balance was caught up in a case of mistaken identity, from which it is still recovering today.

haitian vodou practitioners in dimly lit cave with candles
Vodouwizans with candles
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Devil-worship or disinformation?

A 2011-12 exhibit at the Canadian Museum of Civilization suggests that Vodou was the target of a cultural disinformation campaign. Between 1915 and 1934, the United States Marine Corps occupied Haiti. During the occupation, Haiti became the backdrop for books and movies depicting Vodou as cruel, sinister, and bloody. Tracing media depictions of Haitian Vodou over time, the museum showed how anti-Vodou propaganda was deliberately spread to discredit anti-occupation forces. Movies like White Zombie, released in 1932, portrayed Vodou priests and others who resisted foreign occupation as bloodthirsty, deceptive, and downright evil.

Test your knowledge of Vodou

Now that we’ve set the record straight, it’s time to test your knowledge of this mysterious religion.

hanpainted exterior wall of vodou temple
Vodou peristyle
Photo: Emily Bauman / Amanacer

1. True or false: there are separate branches of Vodou.

Answer: True!

Vodou lwa are divided into several branches or “nations”: the most prominent are Petwo and Rada.

Since there are more than two branches of lwa, it’s difficult to define Petwo and Rada purely in opposition to each other, but they are certainly starkly different.

Some anthropologists have described the Rada as benevolent and the Petwo as malevolent, or the Rada as representing ‘insider’ forces while the Petwo represent ‘outsider’ forces.

Rada lwa, according to anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown, are generally gentle, kind and mostly concerned with supporting the wellbeing of their adherents. Petwo lwa, on the other hand, are hot-tempered, even explosive – the rituals that call Petwo lwa involve intense drumming, whip-cracks, gasoline and even ignited gunpowder. Some anthropologists believe the Petwo lwa are indigenous to Haiti, not imported from Africa – generated either as creolizations of native Taíno or Arawak deities, or born out of the need to survive the harsh conditions and trauma that the enslaved vodouwizan had to endure.

We can illustrate this dichotomy with the two rival lwa, Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò. Two aspects of the same female deity, Erzulie Freda is a Rada lwa, and Erzulie Dantò is a Petwo lwa. In the same way that a diamond has hundreds of facets, a Vodou spirit or lwa has seemingly unlimited sides. Practitioners understand that if the entire lwa – in its full power – were to manifest itself, it would be overpowering, so they choose to invoke only one facet at a time.

Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò are each part of a whole, but are depicted in traditional Haitian folklore as starkly different. Erzulie Freda is depicted as a fair-skinned bourgeois city woman who enjoys wealth, luxury, and the finer things in life like perfumes, jewelry, and flowers. Her counterpart, Dantò, a fierce defender of children, women, and society’s rejects, is dark-skinned and proudly wears two distinct scars on her face. Whereas Freda might respond to a crisis by crying, Dantò responds by becoming enraged.

The vèvè Vodou symbol for each version of Erzulie contains a heart, but each is distinct. Erzulie Dantò’s cosmogram features a sword through a heart, indicating her power to enact vengeance, protect children, and fulfill the fiery side of love on behalf of the lwa.

Whether you attend a ceremony held for Erzulie Freda or Erzulie Dantò is as different as going to a gentle Quaker gathering for collective consciousness unity, or a Pentecostal prayer meeting calling on the Holy Spirit for vigorous and fiery healing.

man lighting candles in a lavishly pink decorated room for vodou ceremony
Ceremony for Erzulie Freda
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

2. True or false: Vodou is all sinister sorcery and black magic.

Answer: False!

There are two satellites of Vodou one might call secret societies. The dark practices of these secret societies were mistakenly called Voodoo by American officials in the early 1900s, causing confusion that persists to this day.

These two secret societies are Makaya and Bizango. They are what one may more accurately consider dark magic or sorcery; their practitioners use curses and incantations designed to cause harm. As opposed to Petwo and Rada Vodou, whose goals are to support and guide life, Makaya and Bizango employ practices harnessed against life.

How did these secret societies arrive in Haiti? It is said that Bizango started as a blend of West-African Bo and European necromancy brought to Hispaniola by colonizers. The story goes that African slaves brought to work sugar plantations were witness to their masters’ dark rituals on the plantations. This is when European knowledge would have been acquired, then combined with rituals from Africa to form a new syncretic practice.

Makaya, on the other hand, is believed to be a merging of Amerindian shapeshifting and other ritual secrets with the imported West-African Bo. The native inhabitants of the island were reputed to know the art of shapeshifting and of poisons, with rituals and practices designed to harm or protect individuals and communities.

Makaya places a stronger emphasis on shifting one’s corporeal form, and its lore includes stories of teleporting from one side of the island to another through secret portals revealed to the marooned slaves by the native Taíno. Some say that this is how revolutionaries were able to travel swiftly across the island and confound colonial armies.

When the US military occupation began in 1915, Western filmmakers exploited rumours about the darkest practices of Bizango and Makaya “voodoo” and through these caricatures, whether deliberately or not, vilified the country’s spiritual tradition.

In reality, love spells, curses, and rituals of revenge fall outside the realm of Vodou altogether. Curses, spells – and zombies – are instead the specialty of Bo in West-Africa and Bizango or Makaya in Haiti. In U.S. Vodou practice, they are categorized as “hoodoo” and should not be conflated with Vodou.

So if it’s not black magic, what is maji in Vodou?

When life gets chaotic and out of our control, westerners turn to psychologists, and Haitian vodouwizan turn to oungan and manbo. Everywhere on earth, for people of every faith, race and class, life can suddenly be thrown out of balance by sickness, professional failure, financial loss, family crisis or community conflict. At such times, vodouwizan ask the lwa to intervene and help the person in distress. This intervention is maji.

Practitioners of maji perform treatments to heal or protect those who consult them. In a dedicated room called a badji, the practitioner uses ritual to call in a lwa whose intervention is most appropriate for the given situation. The lwa may speak to the practitioner, or through the practitioner, possessing the practitioner’s body to investigate the situation for itself. The lwa decides on the appropriate course of action required to restore balance and shares this valuable information through the manbo or oungan.

woman making a cross with two knives on a straw hat
Ritual being performed at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

3. True or false: voodoo dolls are real

Answer: True AND False

During the American occupation, books and films aimed at the general public propagated many of the fictions that continue to degrade Vodou by associating it with evil sorcery. One of the strongest fictions is the image of a voodoo doll pricked with pins to cause injury or suffering to an enemy.

Pricked with pins and full of evil powers, the primitive cloth doll has become the image most often associated with Vodou in the world’s collective imagination. This has nothing, however, to do with the real spiritual practice in Haiti.

In reality, dolls are occasionally used in the practice of Haitian Vodou, but not to cast spells! Placed near graves or hung from the branches of Kapok trees, these dolls convey messages sent by vodouwizan to the dead or to ancestors.

4. True or false: zombies are real

Answer: True!

Forget what you think you know about zombies. While Haitian zombies may not match their typical portrayal in popular media, they hold a very real place in the country’s cultural beliefs. There’s so much to explore about zombie fact and fiction that we’ve dedicated a separate article to it.

Learn all about Haitian zombies here.

haitian vodou practitioners with head scarfs during ceremony
Women at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. True or false: vodou and Christianity first merged in the new world.


Answer: False!

Many of the slaves brought to Hispaniola from northern and central Africa between the 16th and 18th centuries practiced the African form of Vodou. Since the colony’s slave code required all slaves to convert to Christianity, Vodou dances were strictly forbidden, and slaves could not observe their religion openly. They found themselves borrowing many elements from Catholicism to disguise and thus maintain their spiritual practice.

Lwa were assigned the faces of corresponding Saints. For example, Saint Peter holds the keys to the kingdom of heaven and corresponds to Papa Legba, who in Vodou is the gatekeeper to the spirit world. This process, known as syncretization, is why visitors to Haiti can see paintings for sale of a figure who appears to be Mary Mother of Jesus with black skin, and not know that they are really looking at a portrayal of Erzulie Dantò.

What is even less known is that this syncretization began hundreds of years earlier, before the first captured slave was ever sold on Haiti’s shores.

Long before Christopher Columbus docked on the island of Hispaniola, Portuguese monks visited the kingdom of Kongo, from where much of Haitian Vodou originates. These early Christian missionaries arrived in the capital after a long journey, appearing before the Kongo chief and his queen. They wore the plain beige robes of the medieval Jesuit priesthood.

The priests brought with them ornate golden crosses and, with permission, set up shop as missionaries do. They began to learn the local language, communicated as best they could, and shared stories about the Christian Holy Trinity, the resurrection story of Jesus, and the work of the Holy Spirit. In historical letters written to Portugal’s king and queen, the missionaries recount how the Kongo high court was fascinated with the Jesuit’s religion and adopted certain stories into their own belief systems.

The cross and the story of Jesus’s death and resurrection was integrated into the system of traditional Vodou lwa spirits and ancestor worship in the Kongo, which was then taken to Haiti by 16th-century African slaves. The Christian cross became a symbol for the crossroads, which represents life-altering choices and steps along the spiritual path for followers of Vodou in both its African and Haitian expressions to this day.

man carrying decorated cross during vodou ceremony
Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

6. True or false: it’s dangerous to attend a Vodou ceremony because you’ll get possessed.

Answer: False!

One of non-initiates’ greatest fears when it comes to Vodou is being possessed by spirits against their will. While possession does take place at Vodou ceremonies, there is little danger that a spectator will be spontaneously “ridden” by the lwa.

For a vodouwizan, being possessed is like momentarily disappearing in order to become the physical vessel for a lwa. The actions and words of the possessed are believed to be the loa expressing itself, addressing others, advising or consoling, encouraging or scolding, punishing or healing through the Vodouwizan.

For practitioners of Vodou, there is nothing strange or special about possession. It can happen at any moment, and can last anywhere from a few minutes to hours or even days.

If this sounds scary, it’s helpful to remember that an immense amount of training, initiation, not to mention financial resources and sacred planning go into holding a Vodou ceremony. People are looking for answers to real problems around financial ruin, broken relationships, and discord. Each ceremony is held with a specific purpose or intention, and it would not be accomplished if the possessed chwal (or “horse”) wasn’t up to the task of the full participation required of their role.

For the same reason, it is exceedingly unlikely that a spectator at a Vodou dans (ceremony) would spontaneously be possessed. In fact, it is extremely rare for a non-initiate to be invited to participate in a major way in an important Vodou ceremony.

Experience Vodou on your visit to Haiti

Further reading 

For an accessible, illuminating read about Vodou, see Boukman Eksperyans songstress Mimirose Beaubrun’s Nan Domi – An initiate’s journey into Haitian Vodou.  Available in French and English.

For more about the vèvè cosmograms representing the lwa, see the fantastic illustrations and explanations found in a trilingual book by Milo Regaud, Ve-Ve Diagrammes Rituels du Voudou : Ritual Voodoo Diagrams : Blasones de los Vodu – Trilingual ed.Text in French, English, and Spanish.

Mama Lola: A Vodou Priestess in Brooklyn by anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown. Released in 1991, this book is credited with making great strides toward the destigmatisation of Haitian Vodou.

Afro-Caribbean Religions: An Introduction to Their Historical, Cultural, and Sacred Traditions, by Nathaniel Samuel Murrell. Includes 40 pages on Haitian Vodou.

*A quick word about the different spellings of Vodou: some scholars still use the spelling “voodoo;” however, Haitian Vodou initiates and supportive academics prefer alternate spellings such as Vodou, Vodon, Vodun or Vodu.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published June 2021


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

How Haitian Are You? Try This Cultural Quiz!

bright colorful haitian truck loaded with cabbage
Truck loaded with cabbage
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon (K2D)

How Haitian Are You? Prove Yourself with This Cultural Quiz!

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Haiti has a lot of history, so much to show and so much to tell. Do you know some not so common Haitian facts or want to prove to your Haitian grandmother that you know some Kreyòl? Maybe you’ve visited Haiti so many times you feel Haitian in your heart and want to test what you know. That’s why we’re here! Take this quiz to find out just how Haitian you are!

Let’s test how Haitian you are!

If these questions were a bit  too challenging and you still need to brush up on some more simple facts, stick around and check out our “Test Your knowledge – How many facts about Haiti do you know?” Quiz!  If you want to access your inner Captain Morgan try our “Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?” Quiz!


Created by Zachary Warr.

Published April 2021.


How to Attend a Vodou Ceremony in Haiti

group of people standing around a candle and cosmogram drawn on floor
A Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

How to Attend a Vodou Ceremony in Haiti

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There’s no doubt that Vodou is a powerful spiritual tradition. The world’s first free black republic was formed, at least in part, thanks to the uniting spirit of Vodou. Vodou was the common thread that united leaders in the Haitian revolution, despite their lack of a common language, tribal bonds or country of origin. In the space of just a few years, in a seemingly miraculous feat against the odds, an army of slaves threw off their chains, overthrew the French colonial government, beat Napolean’s navy, abolished slavery, and formed modern Haiti.

Today, perhaps not despite but because of these powerful roots, Vodou may just be the most maligned, feared and misunderstood spiritual tradition in the western world. It’s time to set the records straight. Perhaps the best way to help celebrate the freedom fighters and dispel the myths is to attend a Vodou ceremony in Haiti and see for yourself.

Here’s how.

drummer with open shirt and sweaty chest
A drummer at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Franck Fontain

Find out about a Vodou dans

Sacred Vodou gatherings can be called by many names, most often a ceremony, ritual or dance. In Haitian Kreyòl, Vodou practitioners often refer to the event as a dance (dans). The terms dance and ceremony will be used interchangeably for the purposes of this guide.

Find out ahead of time who and what the dance will be for

It may be helpful to ask who the dance will be for and what purpose, if any, is intended. For example, is there a specific lwa (spirit) being evoked? If the ceremony takes place in early November, it will likely be held in honor of the Gede lwa and Day of the Dead. Remember that Petwo deities are the fiery, offense-oriented counterpart of the gentler, protective Rada deities. This can help anticipate the tone of the ritual.

If this is your first time attending a Vodou ceremony, it is recommended to attend a Rada dance, not least because you’re less likely to see animal sacrifice. For example, you could attend a springtime dance held to usher in a season of abundant harvest, good luck and good health. You may wish to begin with a Rada dance for Erzulie Freda, the goddess of love and sensuality, or La Sirène, the mermaid goddess of good luck, fertility and material abundance.

The rites, devotions and overall style of ceremony will vary greatly depending on which part of Haiti you are attending the dance in. For example, Papa Legba and the twin spirits known as Marassa are all recognized through particular rites with certain rituals, dances, drum rhythms, offerings, prayers and cosmograms drawn on the ground. But the specific interpretations of a Legba or Marassa dance in Cap-Haïtien will vary from one held in Jacmel. This is true for all rites and rituals across the different Vodou temples in Haiti.

Learn more about the different Vodou Gods & Goddesses here!

older haitian woman in a red dress with blue sequins
A woman at a Vodou Ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Expect to be there a while

A Vodou dance can last a long time. In Jacmel for example, the rum-fuelled drummers that launch a ceremony at dusk can be found still drumming at dawn – albeit with swollen and bruised hands. So like any dance you attend in a foreign city, bring plenty of water and relax expectations of a set time for when it will end. If you want an exit strategy mid-dance, go with someone who you trust will be flexible to go when you are ready, pay your respects to the host who invited you if possible, and you can simply leave when you’re ready.

exterior of vodou temple with handpainted wall depicting spirits
Vodou peristyle in Artibonite
Photo: Emily Bauman / Amanacer

What a vodou temple looks like

Vodou dances take place at a peristil: a temple, usually round, always with a pole in the center called the central pole (poto mitan) representing the navel of the universe. Many Vodou temples in Haiti are indoor-outdoor, while others are fully enclosed or completely open to the sky. Some sacred rituals take place at waterfalls like Sodo or near a sacred mapou tree, but for the purposes of this guide, we will assume you will attend a ceremony at a peristil.

At the center of the ceremonial space, you’ll see an altar. Bottles represent gifts and offerings. Machetes are symbols of honor and respect to entities in the spirit world.

Check your cultural baggage at the door

On the altar, you may also see skulls and other human remains. While the western world associates bones with death, necromancy and spooky halloween kitsch, it is important to know that skulls hold nearly the opposite significance in Vodou. Try looking at the skull and seeing the comforting presence of an ancestor, or the balance between life and death.

While western cultures tend to avoid death and displace it from the family home, keeping the dead close is a crucial part of cultures from Romania to Indonesia to Haiti. In Vodou, death is not to be hidden from daily life, but embraced in ceremonies as a way to more fully appreciate and celebrate life.

Ancestors and dead family members may be called on to join the dance. Those who have passed away come among the community once more to offer advice, and take part in the rituals. Rather than framing this as a haunting, think of it as a glorious family reunion.

When attending a Vodou ceremony it is a good idea to approach the experience with a blank slate, and a relaxed, open mind, ready to learn. Check your cultural baggage at the door and enjoy the ride of a totally new experience!

a group of vodou practitioners dressed in white
Dancing at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Franck Fontain

Wear something nice, but not white!

What you wear matters! Business casual attire is appropriate. Avoid loud T-shirts or anything ratty or worn outMen can dress in jeans and a short sleeve button-up shirt, and women jeans and a blouse. Aim for fancy but respectful clothing, and no lavish jewelry. Rural dances will generally be more casual.

Color is a key consideration. The purity of white is highly significant at the dance and is reserved for Vodou practitioners, so it’s best not to wear white to any Vodou ritual. Patterns and colors are acceptable – but be careful with colorful head scarves! Keep reading to find out why.

It’s helpful to remember that Haiti can be remarkably hot at nearly any time of year and even sometimes at night. Linen and cotton are your best friend, regardless of whether you plan to attend a ceremony in a city or rural environment.

Bring an offering

While a Vodou dance is no dinner party, it is appropriate to bring an offering of alcohol. Wine is not the hostess’ beverage of choice in this case. Ask if you can offer a liter or half gallon of unrefined rum, called kleren. You can buy it locally and inexpensively almost everywhere in Haiti, but the gesture is important and will be valued, particularly in rural settings. Kleren is the fuel of many Vodou dances, offered to the spirits and the sèvitè (servants of the spirits) alike. The drummers – who often play all night and into the dawn – will be especially appreciative.

a vodou priest and practitioner performing a dance
A ougan at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Beginning the dance

A series of prayers, sometimes Roman Catholic in origin, begin the ceremony. Vodou spirits who serve as gatekeepers are saluted with appropriate honors, offerings, and invocations. If invoking the fiery Petwo lwa, voudiwizans might use whip-cracks, whistles, gasoline and even lit gunpowder to get their attention.

Who leads the dance?

You will be able to identify the Vodou initiates (the men and women who will orchestrate the ceremony) by their all-white ceremonial garb. Most initiates wear traditional Haitian skirts in white, starched white blouses and a white handkerchief on the head. Some may wear colorful satin headwraps. The color of the headwrap is associated with the lwa being served that day, but it also indicates rank in the temple hierarchy.

Mambo or manbo is the name for a female Vodou priestess. Ougan is the name for a male Vodou priest. Mambo and ougan are figures of great authority and respect in the community, responsible for intervening in a wide range of societal hardships, from illness to family conflict, financial trouble or even just a string of bad luck. As intermediaries between the lwa and humans, they act as servants who restore health, harmony and balance.

Drumming is believed to create a passageway to the spirit world. It’s a rhythmic invitation to the lwa to attend the dance being held in his or her honor. Much like a radio station, when the drummers tune into the specific FM frequency of the lwa, it begins to broadcast on that channel. Each lwa has their own drum rhythm and associated dances, and there can be variations between traditions, as well – a Dahomey-descended drum rhythm is different from a Congo-descended drum rhythm. Initiates can spend lifetimes perfecting their repertoire.

cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle
A vèvè being drawn on the floor of a hounfour
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Vèvè cosmograms

Towards the beginning of the dance, initiated Vodou practitioners will trace a vèvè cosmogram on the floor with white powder. This takes immense skill, precision and training. These symmetrical vèvè are ancient and unique to each lwa.

Once it is traced in perfect symmetry on the floor of the temple, an essential element is in place permitting the lwa to descend. Like the unique drum rhythms, the unique cosmograms are call signs, drawing down a particular lwa. As well as the precisely-drawn vèvè on the ground, a sequined flag depicting the cosmogram is hung in a place of honor for all to see.

Learn more about the intricate art of Vodou symbols with our visual guide to the vèvè of Haitian Vodou.

Possession Trances

If the dance is a success, expect to see a possession trance. In creole the person possessed is known as the chwal (horse) that will be “ridden” by the lwa. Here’s how to identify a chwal:

You may see people with pupils dilated, people with spasmodic behaviour, seemingly out of control of their bodies doing the impossible like walking over flaming hot coals. There is no need to be alarmed when people give their bodies over to the lwa to be directed in this way. It means the ceremony is a success, and it represents a culmination of complex rites and practices that have survived hundreds of years of repression.

The trance is an opportunity for the spirit to perform healing through the possessed chwal. Blessings may take place, and it’s also a chance for the lwa to rebuke those in the community who need to smarten up and change their ways.

The possession trance may last for just a few minutes or for several hours. The chwal who has given his or her body in service to the lwa will most likely wake up exhausted, not remembering what has transpired.

people dressed in white dancing and drumming during vodou ritual
Drumming and dancing at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

If you’re afraid of the devil or possession…

Put aside imagery from horror films like The Exorcist or associations of possession with demons. Instead, remember that people enter the possession trance willingly. No matter what happens, remember that Vodou is practiced to restore order, balance, health, and harmony in the lives of its followers.

Many non-practitioners both in Haiti and abroad have been taught to associate Haitian Vodou with evil, demonic possession and even satanism. This is rather silly and slanderous, as there is not even a satan figure in the Vodou pantheon of spirits who could be worshiped.

Vodou practitioners believe in a supreme god named Bondye or Gran Met who is all-powerful yet remains aloof. There is no devil counterpart to Bondye, and like the concept of “source” or “godhead”, he is not directly involved in human affairs. The multitude of lwa – spirits of the ancestors – serve as intermediaries, much more comparable to the saints of the Catholic church than demons.

Still afraid you might get spontaneously possessed? Read our article Haitian Vodou Revealed to learn why this won’t happen.

Animal sacrifice

To ask for good luck, the servants of the spirits may make a blood sacrifice. Animals like roosters, chickens, doves, pigs, and goats may be slaughtered during the ceremony. The offering can be more or less bloody depending on whether it is for a fiery Petwo bosu (bull) spirit offering compared to, say, a ceremony held in honor of the gentle rada Marassa twins.

For western travelers who have grown up aware of PETA campaigns and animal rights activism work, it may be difficult to fathom 5,000 year-old ancient rituals being practiced largely unchanged today. If you are concerned about your reaction to this ancient practice, ask for details in advance so you can decide whether or not to attend.

older haitian women dressed in pink with chair on head
Women at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Do your homework

Haiti’s National Museum in Port-au-Prince is a great place to see some of the oldest, most historic Vodou drums – some date back to the 1500’s! The Musée du Panthéon National Haïtien (MUPANAH) is located on the Champs de Mars Boulevard and features a collection showcasing the heroes of the independence revolution, and the tools they used to found modern Haitian culture.

Just around the corner from the National Museum is the Bureau of Ethnology, a museum dedicated entirely to Haitian Vodou! If possible, do visit at least one of these museums prior to your Vodou ceremony experience.

LGBTQ+ and Safe Spaces

Cross-dressing, trans identies, and all gender expressions are welcome in Vodou communities. Same-sex relationiships and behaviour are often accepted without question. No one bats an eye – in this space, at least, these minority identities are respected as servants of the goddess of love, Erzulie. Expect the dance to be a safe space. You may see men in women’s dresses and much stranger things.

haitian vodou practitioners during ceremony
A ‘Chire Aiyzan’ ritual being performed during a Vodou eremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

100% Vodou

The truth is, that even some Haitians who follow the Protestant or Catholic traditions and attend mass on Sundays can be found seeking advice from a mambo or ougan during the week. In fact, a popular bumper sticker in Port-au-Prince reads “Haiti, 80% Protestant 100% Vodouisan.” For outsiders, this widely-accepted practice can be hard to understand. Yet when a family member falls ill or life situations get dire, this faith-flexibility is common. It’s part of the complex syncretism of Haitian culture, where things are multi-layered and far richer in meaning than they often seem on the surface. Some people might go so far as to argue that you cannot truly understand Haitian culture until you have taken part in a Vodou ceremony.

At the end of the day, no matter your race, religion, sexual orientation or country of origin, you will be accepted with grace and warmth at a Vodou ceremony. Everyone is respected and the protection, good luck, and wishes for good health are extended to all who attend.

What do you say? Maybe it’s time to dance…


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published January 2021.


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