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Art & Culture

La Maison Dufort: Defining Haitian Architecture in Port-au-Prince

La Maison Dufort in Bois-Verna, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

La Maison Dufort

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In the quiet residential area of Bois-Verna in Port-au-Prince, you will find la Maison Dufort (the Dufort House), one of the jewels of the emblematic architectural style of Gingerbread houses in Haiti. It is a vestige of this architectural style that was especially popular around the turn of the century in Haiti – in cities such as Port-au-Prince, JacmelCap-Haïtien, or Jérémie.

With their particular charm, these houses have managed to remarkably resist Haiti’s hot and humid tropical climate, not to mention numerous natural disasters over the years. Nowadays, they constitute an integral part of Haiti’s architectural heritage, and the Dufort House is undoubtedly one of the most curious examples of this classic and refined architecture.

The Dufort House: Over a century of History

The house is also in a quiet area of Port-au-Prince where art lovers of all kinds can meet to display their works, discuss art during a gallery opening, and admire the exhibitions that cover the walls of the charming house. Or you can simply enjoy a cold beer during a show or concert.

If you ever take a detour between 2nd and 3rd Avenues du Travail, it is unlikely you’ll resist the flowery façade, old wooden doors, pointed roofs, and magnificent balconies of the Dufort House. The arrangement of these architectural elements gives the structure an eclectic look that contrasts with the peaceful neighborhood of Bois-Verna. The Dufort House is a true architectural masterpiece and one of the most remarkable examples of this typically twentieth-century Haitian style.

Haitian architect Léon Mathon, one of the three main architects who would popularize this architectural style in Haiti, designed the house in 1910. Like most of the other Gingerbread houses built during this period, it was first used as a family residence, belonging to – none other than – the powerful Dufort family. The structure was then used as an office building until 2010, when the January 12 earthquake severely damaged it.

Veranda area of La Maison Dufort
Photo: Franck Fontain

A walk through Maison Dufort

The Dufort House presents its visitors with an agreeable mix of opulence, elegance, class, and comfort. The building is nestled amidst a rustic setting that consists of a 1,200 square meter paved courtyard, a bougainvillea garden, and flowerbeds all around the house. Taken all together, it’s a serene setting where you can quickly forget the somewhat chaotic feeling of Port-au-Prince’s urban center.

The main entrance leads into a vestibule that connects to three other rooms. Opposite the vestibule is a magnificent wooden spiral staircase that leads to the second level. The second level’s high roof, beautiful casement windows, wooden floor, and balcony are all typical of Gingerbread architecture. These elements ensure that the rooms on the upper level maintain a pleasant ambient temperature, thanks to the constant breeze.

The Dufort House is of particular architectural interest, as it combines the two most distinctive features of Haitian Gingerbread architecture. While some buildings of this type are either entirely brick or entirely wood, the Dufort House elegantly combines these two varieties. The first level has a concrete and brick frame, but the second level is made entirely of wood, not to mention its wooden balcony, which is an unmistakable feature of these historic homes.

Art exhibition at La Maison Dufort
Photo: Franck Fontain

Le Musée Dufort

The Dufort House Museum is currently run by Fondasyon Konesans ak Libète (the FOKAL Foundation), which uses it as a museum for the various exhibitions it organizes with other partners, such as Centre d’Art (the Art Center). The Dufort House hosts major artistic and cultural events, including the Vives exhibition in January and February of 2022, and still presents other seasonal exhibitions or cultural activities.

In 2016, the house and museum were renovated with the support of FOKAL and WMF as part of a worksite dedicated to preserving the architectural heritage of Gingerbread houses in Haiti. It has been operational and open to the public since.

Today, the House and Museum are Port-au-Prince’s true refuge for art enthusiasts. Just finding oneself inside its timeless setting makes the trip well worth it. The structure is a work of art itself, and the exhibits will make you want to visit time and again.

La Maison Dufort in Bois-Verna, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

How to visit

The Dufort House and Museum are located at number 9 on the 2nd Rue du Travail, in Port-au-Prince, right down the street from Saint Adres medical institute, between the 1st Rue du Travail and Rue Vilmenay. The fastest route is from Champs-de-Mars via Avenue Charles Sumner, which then forks into the Second Avenue du Travail. Hiring a taxi would be most ideal.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published November 2020.


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Eight of the Best Books Written by Haitian Women Authors

A Haitian woman at Pic Macaya
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Eight of the Best Books Written by Haitian Women Authors

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Women’s voices form an essential part of contemporary literature, with an increasing number imposing themselves on the international literary scene. Poets, novelists, essayists, and theorists, these women writers never fail to deliver when it comes to creative genius. Haitian women writers have refused to remain on the sidelines in a male-dominated environment.

We’ve rounded up eight of the most brilliant books by Haitian women authors to make room for on your bookshelf.

Love, Anger, Madness by Marie Vieux-Chauvet

Here is a novel that critics won’t stop praising anytime soon. Leading to its author’s exile from Haiti, Marie Vieux-Chauvet’s Love, Anger, Madness (Amour, colère, folie) was immediately banned by the political regime in place when it was published in 1968. A trilogy in one volume, the novel follows three sisters; Claire, Félicia, and Annette, all of whom live under the dictator Duvalier’s authoritarian regime. Each of them corresponds to one of the words in the title, and each will see their family fall apart in this tragedy.

This novel is considered one of the most beautiful in modern Haitian literature. For Haitian-Canadian author Dany Laferrière, Marie Vieux-Chauvet possesses “the clear and pure voice of a lucid and unshakeable novelist.” If you want to begin stocking your library with literature by Haitian women writers, you’ll do well to start with this remarkably well-written, must-read novel.

The Colour of Dawn by Yanick Lahens

A common theme of Haitian literature is the imprint left by the many political crises and repressive regimes the country has faced. Fortunately, they haven’t managed to stifle the voices of our talented Haitian women writers. Yannick Lahens is one of the most brilliant examples of this creative genius and an expression of the certain attachment an engaged writer feels to their homeland.

Published in 2008 (by Sabine Wespieser), The Colour of Dawn (La couleur de l’aube) tells the story of a Haitian family facing a political crisis, misery, and violence. Fignolé, the youngest of the siblings, doesn’t come home one night while bullets are raining down on Port-au-Prince. His mother and two sisters, each with their own unique temperament, set out together to find him.

Savage Seasons by Kettly Mars

No better work can follow the latter novels mentioned than this remarkable book by Kettly Mars. Attesting to the dark moments of oppression and suffering experienced by Haitian families during the Duvalier dictatorship, Savage Seasons (Saisons sauvages) tells the story of Nirvah. To save her husband, who is imprisoned at the infamous Fort Dimanche, Nirvah must offer up her body to the then Secretary of State.

Savage Seasons testifies poignantly to an era deeply rooted in Haitian memory. It’ll surely strike you with its gritty realism.

Dew Breaker by Edwidge Danticat

In this curious tale, Edwidge Danticat surprises us with the confession delivered by the main character, who, from one day to the next, goes from executioner and torturer to prey. He gives us an incredible account of the lives he has destroyed and seen ruined.

The protagonist saves himself from the populist purge thanks to the love of a woman and her daughter. However, he’s constantly confronted by ghosts of his past that stick to him and prove challenging to get rid of, despite being in exile.

Guillaume and Natalie by Yanick Lahens

In reading this surprising love story by Yanick Lahens, it’s easy to get caught up in the eroticism that emanates from the unusual couple at the heart of the novel. The author admits that she’s always wanted to write a love story. Still, despite the muted sensuality that emerges at the start, our two lovebirds are quickly brought back to the reality of their city and country. This narrative helps create a compelling and authentic-feeling love story.

Taking place the day before the 2010 earthquake, Guillaume and Natalie offer a taste of local Haitian color. Without resorting to fatalism, Lahens tells us the love story of a fifty-year-old sociologist and his encounter with Natalie, a thirty-year-old whose love for Haiti brings her back home after years of absence – and despite the wounds, she carries from her time there.

The Farming of Bones by Edwidge Danticat

The brilliant pen of one of Haiti’s best women writers, Edwidge Danticat, often transports us back in time and, through memory, allows us to experience past moments. Her second novel, The Farming of Bones, takes us back with vigor to one of the darkest periods in the history of Haiti and the Dominican Republic: the parsley massacre (Masak nan Pèsil)).

This novel is not only in the service of memory, however. It tells the remarkable love story of an orphan named Amabelle and a Haitian sugar cane cutter named Sebastien.

Amabelle is taken in and raised by a Dominican family as a young girl and becomes their servant. Meanwhile, the situation of Haitians changes drastically following the rise of the dictator Trujillo in the Dominican Republic. Amabelle manages to escape the bloody Persil massacre, but at what cost? This book marks a powerful tribute to the voices of those silenced, and reveals Danticat to be one of our most poetic writers alive.

Moonbath by Yanick Lahens

Moonbath (Bain de lune) is one of Yanick Lahens’ best-known books. Centered on  Haitian peasantry in the town of Anse Bleue, Lahens’ novel tells the story of a young girl who is found washed up on the shore. In reading Moonbath, you’ll be immediately plunged into a whirlwind of colors and scents, a true kaleidoscope of scenes infused with the poetry of popular Haitian beliefs.

Love, lust, Haitian peasantry, Vodou, and struggles for power: are all found in this cleverly composed novel, which won Lahens the prestigious Femina Prize (Prix Femina) in 2014.

Breath Eyes Memory by Edwidge Danticat

You’re likely to enjoy this sensitive tale spun by Edwidge Danticat. It’s the story of love and conflict that unites Sophie and her mother, who had not been in her life for her first twelve years. When Sophie leaves to join her mother in the United States, she must confront her contradictory feelings, including the fact that she has always considered her aunt to be her actual mother.

Danticat builds this moving story around traditional maternal figures and the obsession with preserving virginity and “female purity.” In it, we have a variety of compelling characters: Grandmother Ife, whose blessing must be sought; Martine, who finds herself with a child whose face reminds her of ghosts from the past, but whom she nonetheless tries to protect; Atie, the aunt, who injects all of her feelings of motherhood (for better or worse) into Sophie, who lies at the heart of this magnificent novel.

Just like our enchanting landscapes, historic forts, white sandy beaches, and colorful museums, the literature of our most brilliant Haitian woman authors is worth discovering. So, don’t hesitate to add this unique collection of titles to your reading list today!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published November 2022.


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11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Lansèt kod group in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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If you already know a little about Haiti, then you likely have an idea about our magnificent country, located on the enchanting island of Hispaniola that we share with the Dominican Republic. It’s possible, however, that you have yet to hear about some of the most unique Haitian cultural traditions only known to locals.

To satisfy your curiosity, we’ve rounded up a selection of our oldest traditions, ranging from the daily life in our rural communities to the hubbub of our cities and rich culinary culture.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. “Krik-Krak”

Any true Haitian knows that the exclamation “krik?” always proceeds with an excellent “krak,” or story, as telling tales is an integral part of Haiti’s cultural traditions. Whether under an arbor drinking lemongrass tea with cinnamon or in the comfort of a warm room, the youngest gather around the oldest to tell their tales of yesteryear.

If you want to catch the attention of a Haitian friend, take every opportunity to throw out a “krik?” and they will invariably respond with a “krak.” But your story better be a good one!

Sounds interesting, doesn’t it? Get the backstory to this unique tradition and discover the impact of krik-krak in Haitian culture. Also, for an excellent read, the book Krik? Krak! is a compilation of fascinating Haitian tales by Edwidge Danticat, one of the most famous Haitian women authors to date.

Workers in a konbit in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

2. Konbit

If you pass through some rural regions in Haiti during the tilling season, don’t be surprised to find all the villagers working together or on each other’s lands. This form of social organization in our rural societies is an essential part of our culture and one of the oldest Haitian traditions that continue to this day.

While the men happily handle their kouto digo (hatchet), and machetes to unearth and work the land before its next sowing, women prepare the meals. Moreover, the word “konbit” in Haitian Creole has come into use to refer to living in harmony and the neighborly practices that are unique to the Haitian community.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

3. Lakou

Imagine living in a homeland within another, where each individual forms an integral part of a larger society devoted to a greater good. In Haiti, such a place is known as a lakou. It’s typical to see Haitian families sharing common spaces around their central family units.

The lakou serves as an educational cocoon in which the youngest members can learn about sharing and living in neighborly harmony from their elders. Those who grow up in the commune have a responsibility to one day return to honor their family, seek wise advice, and publicly apologize to the Vodou spirits or loas that may have been offended.

Many Haitian rural communities rely on the social organization that lakou provide to advance in everyday living – and not only do they till the ground together but also share and practice their belief in Haitian Vodou. The worship of spirits is deeply entrenched in the lakou, and well-known lakou like Souvans, Soukri, and Badio maintain this cultural tradition unique to Haiti.

Beny chans preparations in Kabik
Photo: Anton Lau

4. Beny chans

It might seem strange from the looks of it initially, but if you happen to come across a large water bowl of mixed herbs and leaves while traveling through Haiti, then you’ve encountered a “beny chans.” Traditionally an herbal shower for women after giving birth, it is also considered a potion for good luck, finding a soulmate, or even protection during a life-changing trip.

If you didn’t grow up in Haiti, you might be wary about dipping your hands in this unusual mixture. Still, for locals, it’s all part of the unique Haitian culture – so much so that it wouldn’t be surprising for a native living abroad to return to Haiti to receive this sacred anointment on New Year’s eve.

Feeling adventurous? Go and give it a try. But don’t forget to tap into your African-Caribbean roots with our guide on returning to the motherland.

a vodou priest and practitioner performing a dance
Ritual at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. Vodou ceremony and dance

Here’s one of the Haitian cultural traditions that will undoubtedly arouse your curiosity. Forget about the mainstream concept of a group of bloodthirsty Satanists gathering at a run-down Gothic-style church – this is Hollywood stereotyping at its best. Instead, think of an authentic spiritual experience where members enter a trance-like state in alignment with powerful spiritual entities.

Haitian culture isn’t the only one that has Vodou as a religious practice, with similar rituals actively performed in places like the Deep South” in Louisiana or the insular African nation of Benin. In countries such as Brazil and Cuba, the practice of Santeria is still common in many communities. The Haitian Vodou tradition, however, involves elements from years of syncretism, resulting in a blend of African, Christian, and Taíno spiritual traditions.

Vodou is a strong cultural tradition in the Haitian collective imagination—and it’s present in Haitian paintings, music, dances, and literature. More than simply religion or spirituality, Vodou is an intangible patrimony that all Haitians share, whether they consider themselves a true practitioner or not.

Ready for an experience of your own? Find out how to attend a Vodou ceremony in Haiti.

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

6. Fèt Gede

The dead occupy a place of central importance in Haitian daily life, and honoring them constitutes one of the most sacred cultural traditions. To do this, the entire month of November is consecrated each year to ceremonies aimed at appeasing the dead and communicating with them. The spirits that reign over the world of the dead in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Bawon Samdi and Grann Brigitte.

The Gédé symbolizes the spirits of those who have passed into the other world. During the ceremonies organized in their honor, they return to bring joy to the people with their frenzied dancing and salacious speech.

Every Haitian day of the dead celebration is packed with an aura of excitement and mysticism, which you can see for yourself in this photo journal from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band marching in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

7. Rara

Not all Haitian cultural traditions have origins as dark as those about death. In fact, some of them are rather joyous, and the Rara is a perfect example. These groups that march on foot along the streets during pre-Carnaval weekends and the Easter period constitute one of Haiti’s best-known cultural practices.

These spirited groups of bons vivants play various instruments, such as bamboo, the vaccine, cymbals, and sometimes even trumpets and other brass instruments. Their repertoire can run from parodies of popular songs to original songs and those written for special occasions.

Each group is preceded by a man who carries a flag, a woman who wears the group’s colors, and young girls who start the procession. Following are musicians and the rest of the good-natured group that dances along to the sound of the music.

Now, the practice of Rara isn’t only particular to Haiti; other Caribbean nations like Cuba and the Dominican Republic, where it is known as Gaga, have adopted this cultural tradition from Haiti.

Get the true origins behind the Rara tradition of Haiti and join the celebration!

A group of lansèt kod in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Lansèt kòd

If you visit Haiti during the Carnival period, you’ll undoubtedly have the chance to witness one of the most unforgettable cultural traditions: the famous procession of the Lansèt Kòd. Some Haitians will tell you that they were traumatized by it as children. These groups that flood the streets of towns such as Jacmel, Jérémie, or Cap-Haïtien on pre-Carnival Sundays have more than what it takes to impress.

Wearing bull horns on their heads and whips in hand, these men with rippling muscles and bare chests fill up the streets while covered entirely in black paint. Yes, you read that right—they are completely covered with a blacker-than-black substance that will surely make you think of crude oil. Throughout the Carnival procession, they’ll offer up a performance that will remain ingrained in your memory for some time.

Learn more about the Lansèt kòd tradition here!

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Carnival

The Haitian carnival is one of the most widely recognized in the Caribbean. The one hosted in Jacmel has been decreed a national festival due to its artistic allure, attracting numerous tourists every year. It is a brightly colored cultural manifestation where you’ll see Haitian artisans’ talent displayed in themes reminiscent of flora and fauna of the country.

This popular celebration is not only an occasion for artists and artisans to display their talents or attract visitors – but it’s also a means for the population to express their problems with the powers that be. It’s a celebration where all levels of society come together without embarrassment or worrying about societal barriers.

If you’re looking to be part of the festivities this February, then you’d better be prepared to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval.

A bowl of soup joumou
Soup Joumou
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Soup Joumou

If you visit any Haitian family on New Year’s Day, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by a culinary practice as old as Haiti: the traditional Soup Joumou preparation. So forget about your desire to eat anything else, and let our succulent soup seduce your tastebuds.

Prepared from a giraumont (turban squash) base, where the soup gets its name -as well as vegetables and tubers – this dish is a staple in all Haitian households on New Year’s Day. Don’t be surprised to see people incorporating Soup Joumou with every meal served during the entire celebration. It’s just that good.

This tradition hearkens back to January 1st, 1804, when the young nation chose this delicious dish – until then only reserved for the colonizers and special guests – to celebrate their freshly acquired liberty.

Want to find out what makes Soup Joumou so unique? Pick up on some of the history behind the dish, and learn the basics of preparing the best Soup Joumou.

Fête champêtre in Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Fête champêtre

Every city in Haiti has its own patron Saint to which the inhabitants turn to confess their troubles and joys or make special petitions. These cultural celebrations of the patron saints, also called fête champêtres, are on another level.

Regardless of their religious beliefs, locals from other provincial towns, as well as a crowd of curious onlookers and tourists, head toward the capital cities from each village to celebrate the feast dedicated to the patron saint.

Along with religious pilgrims, you also have the partygoers who are only there to enjoy the festival following the Grand Mass of the local parish. Among the most popular fêtes champêtres in Haiti are the celebrations of Notre Dame of Mount Carmel in Saut d’Eau and Notre Dame in Petit Goâve.

Gather with the locals and go on a pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau, whether for spiritual reasons or just to celebrate and party hard with the crowd.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2022.


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Photo Journal: Fèt Gede – A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

crowd gathered at haitian cemetery with big cross for fet gede ritual
Crowd gathered for Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fèt Gede: A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

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Every November in Haiti, there are festivities held throughout the month that, for an outsider, might seem, well, quite strange! In particular, the Fête Gede (Day of the Dead) and All Saint’s Day involve unsettling processions to the cemetery of each town around the country.

The crowd that gathers is a varied group, comprising people who are simply curious as well as people of all different faiths, including Hatian Vodou. They join together to walk to the main cemetery in each town, all the while following the unique spectacle that the procession offers. And what is this spectacle, exactly? Practitioners of Vodou taken over by the Gede, the spirits for whom these stunning celebrations in Haiti are held.

vodou practitioner holding a machete and colorful handkerchiefs
A Vodou practitioner celebrating Fèt Gede, Gonaïves Cemetary
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In Vodou spirituality, the Gede are the spirits of the dead. They are responsible for accompanying the dead on the path toward the other world, but also of watching over the living. They thus constitute the bridge between the world of the living and the world of the dead. Two major Gede deities in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Baron Samedi and Grann Brigitte.

gravestone at haitian cemetery during fet gede ritual
Fèt Gede rituals at the cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Those possessed by the gede spirits set the festival’s tone, which is truly carnivalesque. You might hear some rough language, see some dirty dancing, and witness other extravagant performances. All of these provide plenty of entertainment for the more docile crowd that follows along.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
A Vodou temple inside the Cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fueled by alcohol, as well as hot pepper-based infusions that they sprinkle on their bodies, the procession heads toward the main cemetery. Overtaken by the spirits of the dead, the possessed swear and carry out quite a remarkable performance.

gravestone at haitian cemetery with two soda bottles and flowers
Offerings on a gravestone during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The spectacle of the procession attracts quite a crowd, and the possessed are easily recognizable due to the ritual colors of Baron Samedi that they wear (white, black, and purple). Some even cover themselves entirely with white powder or draw gloomy scenes on their bodies. Others choose to wear the preferred attire of Baron Samedi, which includes a black hat, monocle, and cane. Altogether, this creates a true Carnival of the Dead that happens every year in Haitian cemeteries.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
Preparation during Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

This Festival of the Dead, which comprises rituals and dances all November long, testifies to the intimate link that exists between the world of the living and the world of the dead in Vodou spirituality. For practitioners of Vodou,  Fête Gede is really more like a celebration of life. The gede spirits who return via their hosts during possession can attest to this way of thinking. They are brought to life by joy and are spirits who love to laugh, dance, and have fun.

haitian vodou practitioner dancing at fet gede ritual with crowd watching
Vodou practitioners during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

All of these wild performances have just one objective: to amuse. The festival is not a moment for tears or regrets but rather a time to honor the memory of the departed. Part of this involves preparing for the festival by cleaning the cemeteries and restoring the tombs.

Those who have sailed for “the land without a hat” — a Haitian expression that means the “beyond,” because no one is buried with their hat — remain present in daily life and are nonetheless celebrated as they should be during this festival given in their honor. In Vodou spirituality, those who have set sail for the world of the dead maintain an important role in everyday life. The spirits of those who have passed on, bearing the name Gede, are respected as guardians, advisors, or vengeful spirits by those who remain.

The Fête Gede festival in Haiti is somewhat similar to the Day of the Dead as practiced in other parts of the world (e.g. Dia de los Muertos). The difference, however, lies in the place that the dead occupy in Vodou belief and in the syncretism underlying the various beliefs that Haitians hold.

haitian cemetery with sculpture and blue sky with clouds
Monument for the Gede spirit Brave, Gonaïves Cemetery
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

As a legacy of ancestral African traditions, Vodou reserves an important place for those who have departed this world for the next. In the procession of the Gede, different people portray different divinities, including Baron Samedi, Baron Lacroix, Baron Criminel, Grann Brigitte, and all the other Gede spirits. Much more than simple guardians of death and graveyards, the Gede are also guardians of life.

As such, the celebration of Fèt Gede is not just a celebration to commemorate the dead, but a celebration where the dead can take part by way of possession in the form of Gede spirits.

haitians gathered at cemetery for fet gede vodou ritual
A Vodou Priestess heading a ceremony for the spirit Brave Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

At the main cemetery in Port-au-Prince, where the biggest iteration of this festival is held each year, Catholics come to pray for the souls of their deceased at the small chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, Protestants come to gather at the graves of their lost loved ones, and practitioners of Vodou come for the largest celebration of the Fête Gede festival in all of Haiti.

haitian vodou practitioners lighting a candle during fet gede
A Vodou ritual at a ceremony during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The festival is at the very crossroads of Haiti’s religious syncretism, with Catholics and Protestants joining the procession to the cemeteries, all worshiping differently but each bearing the same thoughts for the departed, thoughts colored by the beliefs on which these extraordinary celebrations are based.

haitian vodou practitioner at cemetery wearing a black and purple dress
A Vodou ceremony for the Brave Gede spirit during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Even if Fèt Gede is held on and around All Saint’s Day and the Day of the Dead, it’s a much different celebration than ones that you might see elsewhere. It’s a true moment of communion between the dead and the living, the latter of whom brings coffee, roasted corn, cassava, clairin (rum), or the favorite dish of the lost loved one.

haitian man holding a part of a human skull for fet gede
Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

One might even be tempted to say that Fèt Gede is much more than a simple set of practices based on certain beliefs about death — rather, it constitutes a genuine philosophy of life, a life that must be lived like a carnival. If we enjoy every moment, it won’t be the Gede who contradict us!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published in October 2022.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Quiz – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

handpainted haitian boardgame with soccer players
Haitian board game in Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Test Your Knowledge – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

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Ever been to Haiti? Yes, no, maybe so? Regardless, we hope you find this quiz fun and informative. If you’re a new visitor, hopefully this quiz will inspire you to experience Haiti up close! Let’s test your knowledge on the ins and outs with these 18 cultural facts about Haiti.


Let’s test your knowledge on these cultural facts about Haiti

How did it go? If you’re feeling brave like Toussaint Louverture our “How Haitian are you?” Quiz is just right for you! If you want to access your inner Captain Morgan try our “Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?” Quiz!


Created by Zachary Warr.

Published December 2021.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

dramatic haitian coastline with jungle forest and speed boat
Anse Baguette beach near Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

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If you’re anything like us, the need for you to connect or even be in Haiti at this moment in time has been stronger than ever before. The last sixteen months have proven to be challenging in ways both familiar and new, and have pushed us to adapt in ways we never would’ve thought possible. As Haiti weathers the storms of the ongoing pandemic, sociopolitical unrest, and the assassination of former president Jovenel Moïse, the feeling of longing for Haiti—and in a way, for those on the island who make us feel like we’re home—is hard to fight off.

Since July 7, Haiti has felt like a liminal space where no one is quite sure where to stand or how to behave. The news of Jovenel Moïse’s assassination shook the capital as hard as it did the surrounding cities and far-away provinces. In the days following the killing, the streets of Port-au-Prince were quieter than they usually are on Sundays; worry and anticipation tainted the air, and people hesitated to venture outside for fear of what would happen next. Even though in the days since, things seem to have regained some kind of normalcy, it is very clear to everyone in Haiti that there is no going “back to normal” at the moment.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings
Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

This leaves people like us—and people like you, too, who are enamored with Haiti, and who want nothing but to run and embrace the island—lost and confused. If the pandemic wasn’t a good time to travel to Haiti for just any reason, the recent events are even more reason to rethink purchasing a plane ticket. Just like you may be anxious to fly in for your summer vacation, we are anxious to recommend that you do so.

What we feel comfortable and eager doing, though, is recommending that you visit Haiti from home.

Right here, on Visit Haiti.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat
Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Cook Your Way Through the Island

One of our favorite things about Haiti is how accessible the country’s history and culture is through its cuisine. A lot of Haitian fruit is accessible in foreign markets, like the unmistakable Haitian mango; consider shopping at your local Caribbean shop for some of our favorite summer flavors. This is also the perfect opportunity to order some of the best rum Haiti has to offer and consider a home tasting. We love how these rums shine next to Haiti’s hall-of-fame dishes, too.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Bring the Outside Inside

If you’re a lover of nature, you might enjoy trying to spot some of Haiti’s wildlife in your neighborhood on the weekend. You’ll be pleased to know that Haiti is home to some really awesome forests, such as Forêt des Pins, too— which you’ll definitely want to put down on your list of places to see on your next trip. We have good news for avid birdwatchers, too: you can probably spot some of Haiti’s winged wildlife where you live.

A woman wearing a bikini relaxes in a window holding a book
Book reading in Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

Learn the Colors of Haiti’s Culture

Now is also a good time to read up on the richness of Haitian heritage and culture, which is sure to taint every step you take around the island as soon as you’re able to travel to Haiti again. We highly recommend checking out what to do at a vodou ceremony, or where to meet and buy from Haiti’s finest metal-workers. And until you can safely make it to the island, our How Haitian Are You quiz and Best books about Haiti Reading List are a good way to make sure you stay on your toes by the time your next trip comes around.

aerial view of coastal village with market area and boats
Sun rising over the port of Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Visit Haiti, Right From Your Screen

One of the ways we are excited to help you visit Haiti from the comfort of your home is through our photo journals. Tag along on a visual and virtual tour of the island. Our photo journals come courtesy of Haitian photographers, and feature different regions all over the country. Right now, you can take a mini-trip to Saint-MarcGrand’Anse, or even Marigot.

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf
Ann-Sophie in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Ted Olivier Mompérousse

Meet Haiti, Meet the Locals

In another effort to bring you closer to Haiti and its resilient, inspiring, and bright people, we are also pumped to introduce you to our Meet the Locals series. It’s no secret that Haiti and Haitians carry a bold streak; it shows in the food, and it shows in the music. What we want to share is how each individual Haitian contributes to painting the colorful picture that is Haiti today. You can start here, by reading our interview with Ann-Sophie Hamilton, a sustainable tourism advocate.

And watch our video where we speak to Isaac, a painter from Dame-Marie.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2021


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