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A Visual Guide to Vèvè: Vodou Symbols & Cosmograms

Drawing a Vodou vèvè
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

A Visual Guide to Vèvè: Vodou Symbols & Cosmograms

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Vodou, a spiritual and cultural practice that has long intrigued people from around the world, is a fascinating blend of African, Native American, and European beliefs and traditions. It’s a rich tapestry woven from the beliefs and experiences of enslaved peoples brought to the Caribbean and the Americas, and it has been shaped and evolved over centuries to become what it is today.

At the heart of Vodou are the symbols known as vèvè. These cosmograms are intricate drawings made with cornmeal, coffee, or flour, and they serve as the visual representation of the spirits and deities honored in Vodou. Each vèvè corresponds to a specific spirit, and invoking them involves drawing the corresponding symbol on the ground. This is often performed by an initiate who has learned the technique and is an essential part of Vodou rituals and ceremonies.

Vodou vèvè
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

In Haiti, Vodou is a vibrant and influential part of the country’s culture, and its vèvè cosmograms are a reflection of the rich diversity of spirits and beliefs that make up this unique practice.

From the healing spirit of Simbi, guardian of rivers and sources, to the fierce and far-reaching power of Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantor, each vèvè holds a special significance and meaning. These symbols are not only an important part of Vodou rituals, but they are also beloved cultural icons that are celebrated in art and designs across the country.

Come along as we navigate the vast array of spirits and symbols in Haitian Vodou with this visual guide to the most prominent vèvè you’re likely to encounter in Haiti. Explore the meaning behind these symbols and dive into the world of Vodou.

Vodou symbol of Papa Legba
Illustration: Pyelila

Legba: The Guardian of the Gates

Papa Legba, the first spirit to manifest during a Vodou ceremony, holds a special place in the Vodou Pantheon in Haiti. He is the guardian of the gates, allowing spirits to cross into the human world. His vèvè symbolizes his role as the barrier between the two worlds, with two perpendicular axes and his cane.

Vodou symbol of Damballah & Ayida Wèdo
Illustration: Pyelila

Damballah and Ayida Wèdo

Papa Legba, the first spirit to manifest during a Vodou ceremony, holds a special place in the Vodou Pantheon in Haiti. He is the guardian of the gates, allowing spirits to cross into the human world. His vèvè symbolizes his role as the barrier between the two worlds, with two perpendicular axes and his cane.

Vodou symbol of Marasa
Illustration: Pyelila

Marasa: The Magical Twin Spirits

Marasa represents the duality of good and evil in Haitian Vodou. As twin spirits, they’re feared for their supposed magical powers, like the ability to control the weather and being able to predict the future. In Haiti, human twins are believed to have a strong connection, symbolized by the vèvè that shows them tied together. Marasa is often seen as mischievous, depicted as children or young adolescents in the collective imagination of Haitians.

Vodou symbol of Ogou Feray
Illustration: Pyelila

Ogou: The Powerful Warrior Spirit

Ogou is a prominent spirit in the pantheon of Haitian Vodou, with several vèvè symbols dedicated to him. He is known to change his name and go by different titles, such as Ogou Feray, Ogou Badagri, and Ogou Adaché. The position of the sword in the drawing serves as a quick identifier for the different Ogous. For example, the Vodou symbol of Ogou Feray depicts crossed swords, as seen in this vèvè.

Vodou symbol of Ogou Badagri
Illustration: Pyelila

The vèvè of Ogou Badagri also shows swords, but here they are intertwined. Ogou is widely revered by Vodou practitioners for his powerful warrior energy. He is often seen as a member of a larger escort of warrior Loas. The swords in the cosmogram symbolize Ogou’s strength and his ability to protect and defend those who call upon him. Whether you’re seeking protection, guidance, or victory in battle, Ogou is a powerful spirit to call upon in Vodou rituals.

Vodou symbol of Kouzen Zaka
Illustration: Pyelila

Kouzen Zaka: Protector of the Fields

Kouzen Zaka, represented by this vèvè, is the guardian of the fields in Haitian Vodou. The drawing of his symbol showcases elements of agricultural activity, including the earth, machete, sickle, hoe, and a djakout (straw bag). Zaka is closely tied to work and is celebrated on May 1st, the day of the agricultural and labor festival. He is revered by farmers and those who rely on agriculture for their livelihood.

Vodou symbol of Ayizan
Illustration: Pyelila

Ayizan: The Guardian of Trade and Healing

As the patron of trade and markets, Ayizan is a spirit revered for her powerful healing gifts. Her vèvè comprises four intersecting lines forming a diamond shape in the center. This central diamond symbolizes a palm leaf, which is the preferred tree of this deity. As the patron of commerce and markets, Ayizan is revered by merchants and traders alike.

Vodou symbol of Papa Loko
Illustration: Pyelila

Papa Loko: The Keeper of Vodou Traditions

An important spirit in Haitian Vodou, Papa Loko is known for his healing powers and association with the wind. As the first Vodou priest, he is responsible for conferring spiritual powers to new priests and safeguarding the traditions of the religion.

His vèvè, which depicts a snake coiled around a vertical axis and a cane, symbolizes his role as the protector of ounfò, the Vodou temples. Papa Loko is widely respected by practitioners for his influence on preserving the ancient customs and beliefs within Vodou.

Vodou symbol of Agwe
Illustration: Pyelila

Agwe: Master of the Seas

In Haitian Vodou, Agwe, also known as Mèt Agwe, is the ruler of the oceans. His vèvè symbolizes a boat, reflecting his maritime domain. Coastal communities often pay homage to this powerful spirit by offering him devotion in a boat loaded with offerings. For followers of Vodou, the ship in Agwe’s Vodou symbol represents his role in escorting the souls of the deceased to their final resting place.

Vodou symbol of Simbi
Illustration: Pyelila

Simbi: The Spirit of Water

Simbi spirits are guardians of water sources, rivers, and springs. They are also healing spirits who can grant the gift of clairvoyance to their followers. With the country’s many rivers, waterfalls, and long coastlines, this spirit holds a significant place in the hearts of Haitians, especially in coastal cities where fishing is the main source of income and food.

For boat owners, merchants traveling by sea, and aspiring fishermen, Simbi is of great importance. Some even perform a ceremony before embarking on a journey.

Vodou symbol of Bawon Samedi
Illustration: Pyelila

Baron Samedi – The Vodou Guardian of Death

Bawon Samedi is the master of cemeteries and the guardian between the world of the dead and the living. His vèvè depicts a tomb with a cross and two coffins, symbolizing death. He is one of the most famous of all Vodou spirits and is followed by an entourage of other spirits known as the Gede.

To gain a deeper understanding of the Gede spirits, check out this story about the Fet Gede celebration in Haiti.

Vodou symbol of Grann Brigitte
Illustration: Pyelila

Grann Brigitte: The Consort of Baron Samedi

Grann Brigitte forms a couple with Baron Samedi in order to reign over the world of the dead and cemeteries. Her vèvè symbol is made up of three parallel lines, and a heart, all decorated with small crosses.

Vodou symbols of Erzulie Freda Erzulie Dantor
Illustration: Pyelila

Erzulie Freda & Erzulie Dantor: The Heart of Love and Protection

Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantor are often considered sisters in Haitian Vodou. They share similarities in their vèvè, but also have distinct differences. Both drawings depict a heart, which represents love, but Dantor’s is pierced by a knife, whereas Freda’s is unbroken. Erzulie Freda is known for her jealousy and unpredictable nature, but also her power as a lover. On the other hand, Erzulie Dantor is revered as a fierce and loving mother figure.

Vodou symbol of Milokan
Illustration: Pyelila

Milokan – The Masterpiece Vèvès

The Milokan vèvè symbols are a display of intricate complexity. They don’t represent a solitary spirit, but a congregation of deities. During Vodou rituals, initiates can call upon multiple spirits simultaneously through the use of Milokan. These vèvè are true works of art, embodying the mastery of their creators.

Vodou vèvè cosmograms are more than just symbols in Haitian culture; it’s an art form, mastered by initiated priests. The intricate drawings are imbued with mystical and ritualistic significance, representing a connection between the human and spirit world.

But the beauty of vèvè extends beyond the realm of spirituality. Its aesthetic appeal has made it a popular trend in fashion and business branding, showcasing the richness of Haitian culture. Entrepreneurs and artists, such as those of the Saint-Soleil painting movement, incorporate vèvè designs into their works, adding a touch of Vodou to their creations.

If you’re interested in learning more about Vodou, its history, and its impact on Haitian society, here are some more stories that delve into this fascinating topic:

  • Moreover, you can unlock some of the enduring mysteries about Vodou by walking in the trail of the annual one-of-a-kind Vodou pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau that brings together crowds of the devoted and the curious.
  • Finally, if you have the opportunity to visit Haiti, you could take your exploration of Vodou to the next level by attending a Vodou ceremony to witness its beauty and power first-hand.

Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published March 2023.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

From Legba to Erzulie: A Guide to Haitian Vodou Gods & Goddesses

The Vodou spirit Agaou
Photo: Verdy Verna

From Legba to Erzulie: A Guide to Haitian Vodou Gods & Goddesses

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Enter the mystical world of Haitian Vodou, where powerful gods reign supreme. From the fierce warrior Ogoun to the loving mother Erzulie, practitioners have revered and honored these deities for centuries. But beyond the Hollywood portrayals of zombies and trance possessions, lies a rich cultural heritage steeped in tradition, ritual, and community.

Join us as we go deeper into the fascinating realm of the spirits and discover the true essence of Haitian Vodou.

How many Vodou gods are there in Haitian Vodou?

Actually, there are no gods or goddesses in Vodou. There are no angels or demons, either. Generally, Vodou practitioners agree on the existence of a higher entity. They often call it “Bondye” or “Granmet.” Everything that lives and breathes is placed under its supreme authority. But the everyday life and beliefs of the Vodou practitioner are under the aegis of particular entities. These are the Loas.

Rèn Kongo
Photo: Verdy Verna

So what are these Loas?

Think of them as spiritual intermediaries between God and us mortals. The thing is, Vodou practitioners see the Loas as powerful energies that take care of our everyday affairs, while Bondye stays hands-off. Sure, calling Bondye the ‘God of Vodou’ is a bit of a misnomer, but that doesn’t change how important the spirits are in the lives of Vodou practitioners. They’re the ones honored during all those ceremonies and rituals you might have heard about.

You won’t find a sacred Vodou Bible that lists all the deities because Vodou is a complex and dynamic spirituality. Haitian Vodou’s spirits are rooted in African, Caribbean, and indigenous cultures, like those of the Taíno, the Kingdom of Dahomey, and the Congo.

Some practitioners will tell you there are 401 nasyon (families of Loas), and others will mention 101 or 21 nasyon. It’s a way of saying there are a lot of Loas out there, known and unknown.

To help make sense of it all, here’s a list of the most well-known Loas.

Papa Legba
Photo: Verdy Verna

Papa Legba

Let’s start with Papa Legba, the gateway to the spirit world and the one who unlocks the secrets of Vodou. Known as a trickster Loa, he’s often portrayed as an older man leaning on a crutch, accompanied by one or more dogs. During Vodou ceremonies, he’s the first one to be invoked, as he opens the spiritual gateway that separates the Loas from our physical world.

In addition, Papa Legba is the guardian of portals, doors, and crossroads and is known by many names, such as Atibon Legba, Legba Met Kafou, and Legba Potay. His role is critical in any Vodou ritual, as he’s the one who grants access to the other Loas and allows them to manifest themselves during the ceremony.

Danmbala Wèdo & Ayida Wèdo
Photo: Verdy Verna

Damballah Wèdo and Ayida Wèdo

Meet Damballa Wèdo and Ayida Wèdo – the ultimate divine power couple. They symbolize the perfect balance and harmony of all creation, representing both masculine and feminine energies. When together, they’re often depicted as two intertwined snakes, showcasing the union of their spirits.

Damballa is the original force of creation, believed to be the inner voice of God. He’s the source of all wisdom and knowledge and represents the serpent of the earth and the horizon.

Ayida, on the other hand, is the rainbow, the snake of the sky. She gives rain to the earth and restores its beauty. Together, Damballa and Ayida are the source of life and wisdom. You can often spot their symbol of the intertwined snakes on Vodou drums, furniture, and even the poto mitan (the central pole of a peristyle).

Ayizan Velekete
Photo: Verdy Verna

Ayizan Velekete

A wise old woman who walks the roads with her trusty cane, Ayizan Velekete is more than just a simple figure. She is the guardian of commerce and economy, known for her ancient wisdom and pure spirit. Her benevolent eye watches over business activities and roads, and Vodou practitioners often call upon her for success in their ventures.

As the wife of Papa Loko, they work together to ensure the purity and respect of the Vodou tradition. Her favorite tree is the palm tree, symbolizing royalty, though she is often depicted as a shrewd old woman.

Papa Loko
Photo: Verdy Verna

Papa Loko

Papa Loko is a powerful Loa, and his importance is beautifully illustrated in a popular Haitian folk song famously performed by Toto Bissainthe: “Papa Loko ou se Van, pouse n ale nou se papiyon” (Papa Loko, you’re the wind, pushing us, and we become butterflies).

As the guardian of Vodou temples (known as hounfour), he’s responsible for maintaining the Vodou tradition and for passing down wisdom to new initiates in the roles of Vodou priests and priestesses. He’s highly respected and often honored by Vodou practitioners who use his asson (rattle) during rituals.

But that’s not all – with his extensive knowledge of herbal medicines and natural remedies, Papa Loko is also a healing Loa who can aid those in need of physical, emotional, or spiritual healing.

Kouzen Zaka
Photo: Verdy Verna

Kouzen Zaka

Known as the quintessential farmer Loa, Kouzen Zaka is beloved by rural communities for his ability to ensure a bountiful harvest and prosperity in the fields. He’s often depicted wearing a straw hat and carrying a machete and a djakout (woven grass bag). Celebrated every May 1st during the feast of agriculture and work, he’s known to consume laziness and idleness.

Kouzen Zaka is a friend to hardworking people, granting them success in their labors. He’s often associated with Saint Isadore of Seville and loves all Haitians, living or dead. With a childlike version of himself called Ti-Zaka in some lineages, this lovable Loa is all about embracing the power of hard work.

Met Agwe Tawoyo
Photo: Verdy Verna

Met Agwe

A powerful spirit of the oceans, Met Agwe Tawoyo is the ruler and guardian of its bounties. He’s often compared to the Greek god Poseidon and is beloved by fishermen and sailors for his generous spirit. His mythical residence, Nan Zile, is said to be hidden deep in the sea’s depths.

During Vodou rituals, those possessed by Met Agwe often turn towards the sea, acknowledging his powerful presence. He’s married to Mambo La Sirène, the Haitian mermaid, and together they rule over a large group of spirits in the Vodou pantheon.

Manbo Lasirèn Dyaman
Photo: Verdy Verna

Manbo Lasiren Dyaman

In the world of Haitian Vodou, the mermaid goddess of the sea, Lasiren, reigns supreme. With her alluring half-woman, half-fish form, she embodies the wealth and abundance of the ocean and is revered as a powerful Loa who can grant prosperity and good fortune to her followers.

As the wife of Met Agwe, she rules over the vast kingdom of the oceans with him. According to Haitian culture, whoever finds her comb will become the master of immense wealth. But beware – Lasiren isn’t just a benevolent spirit. When angered, she can be fickle and dangerous. In her alternate form of Labalenn, the whale, she can manifest as a powerful force of unconscious strength.

Erzulie Freda
Photo: Verdy Verna

Erzulie Freda

The Haitian Vodou Loa of love, beauty, and prosperity, Erzulie Freda might be compared to the Greek goddess Aphrodite. She is a powerful spirit known for her vanity and timid nature. To receive her as a guest during rituals, practitioners must treat her with honors due to her status as a fine lady. She loves heady perfumes, jewels, and anything related to beauty and coquetry.

She is considered a generous spirit, lavishing her followers with material and spiritual gifts and lots of love, yet she can also be fickle, difficult, and even cruel. Freda is commonly invoked by men seeking sexual prowess or riches and is often assisted by her “sister,” the Petwo spirit Ezili Danto.

Erzulie Dantò
Photo: Verdy Verna

Erzulie Dantò

Also known as Mami Dantò, Erzulie Dantò is a powerful and protective mother figure in the Vodou tradition. Often depicted holding a knife, she symbolizes justice and will forcefully fight to protect her children, who are her loyal followers. She is a single mother, a Haitian peasant who is fiercely independent and takes care of her own.

Unlike the Erzulie Freda deity, Dantò does not need frills or coquetry. Instead, she is strong and determined to provide for her children. Despite her harsh appearance, she is deeply caring and dedicated to her children and will stop at nothing to protect them. She is also a guardian and protector of orphans, sick children, and those who have been abused.

Ogou Feray
Photo: Verdy Verna

Ogou

The mighty warrior Loa of Ogou, is the embodiment of a fighting spirit. Like the Roman war gods Mars and Jupiter, he commands respect and fear from his followers. As the protector and guardian of his people, Ogou is associated with fire, the sword and war.

He is a fierce and formidable deity with multiple forms, including Ogou Feray, Ogou Batala and Ogou Badagri. Each Ogou spirit has​​ distinct characteristics and attributes, but they all share a love for war, the sword, and forge work. With his powerful energy and stern discipline, Ogou is the perfect guide for those seeking to overcome their fears and become stronger, better versions of themselves.

Ogou is said to embody the warrior spirit of the old Oyo Empire in West Africa, and his Vèvè is the totem of the emperors and kings that have followed Abiodun, King of the Oyo people.

Met Kafou
Photo: Verdy Verna

Met Kafou

If you’re brave enough to summon Met Kafou, prepare for a test of willpower, determination, and discipline. This formidable Loa is the master of dark magic and sorcery, and he doesn’t grant his favors lightly. However, if you can prove yourself to be worthy, Met Kafou can bestow immense power and knowledge upon you.

But be careful: his gifts come at a steep price, and he won’t hesitate to exact it. If you’re willing to take the risk, proceed with caution and tread carefully, lest you fall prey to the powerful forces that lie in wait.

Bawon Samdi
Photo: Verdy Verna

Bawon Samdi and the Gede

Also known as Baron Samedi, is the leader of the Gede Loa group, the spirits of the dead in Vodou tradition. He is the guardian of the barrier between the living and the dead and is responsible for ensuring that the souls of the deceased pass into the afterlife safely.

He is often depicted as a tall, dark figure dressed in a top hat, black tuxedo, and sunglasses, with a skull for a face. Bawon Samdi is known for his mischievous and playful nature, but it should not be taken lightly, as he holds the power of life and death in his hands.

He is often invoked in rituals to communicate with the deceased and is said to be able to heal the sick and protect against evil spirits. The Gede also include other powerful Loas such as Baron Lacroix, Baron Kriminel, Gede Nibo, Papa Gede, and Gede Mazaka, each with their unique personalities and powers.

Learn more about Fèt Gede, the Haitian day of the dead celebration that honors the Gede spirits, and see the photos from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published February 2023.


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Lansèt Kòd – the Haitian Tradition You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

The final lansèt kòd ritual
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Lansèt Kòd – the Haitian Tradition You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

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Embark on a journey of cultural discovery with the Haitian Carnival – where music, dance, and artistic expression come to life. Amidst the lively parades and colorful costumes, one tradition stands out as truly original and captivating – the Lansèt Kòd.

This century-old spectacle, where fearless participants cover themselves in black paint and run around in the streets, is a sight you won’t soon forget. But be warned, the Lansèt Kòd may seem strange or even intimidating to the unassuming observer, although for those who dare to experience it, it’s a true exhibition of Haitian culture.

To delve deeper into the Haitian tradition of the Lansèt Kòd, we traveled to Jacmel, the hub of cultural heritage in Haiti’s southeast department, to witness the preparation of the disguise, the pulsating energy, and the spectacle of the procession that culminates at

A boy getting face painted for Lansèt Kòd
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Embracing Eccentricity: A Behind-the-Scenes Look

On a Sunday morning during carnival season in Jacmel, the sleepy coastal town is gradually stirring as the sun rises. The air is salty from the nearby ocean and the sky is a brilliant blue. In a neighborhood lakou, a group of young men gathers, ready to disguise themselves for their weekly outing. They move to the beat of méringue music blaring from a cell phone, as they arrange their costumes, made from cut-out pants and ragged shorts.

Lansèt kòd carnival costume in the making
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Papier-mâché horns, painted fresh, dry in the sun as motorcycles drive by, adding to the noise of the street. To complete their look, some of the participants hold long whips, ready to snap as they parade through the town. Eccentricity is encouraged and embraced in these groups, with some sporting miniskirts and wigs in varying shades of brown, blonde and multicolored.

Charcoal being mixed with sugar cane syrup
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In a corner of the courtyard, the leader prepares the central element of their disguise – a mixture of charcoal powder and cane syrup. The result is a thick, shiny black substance. The air is filled with a sweet, sugary aroma as the young men cover themselves head-to-toe with the mixture, only leaving ragged shirts, wigs, horns, and whips as the only other visible clothing.

Rubbing on the black paint
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Friends help each other apply the black paint, leaving their skin sticky and oily. Finally, with their disguises complete, the Lansèt Kòd are ready to take the streets of Jacmel by storm.

A lansèt kòd father and his son
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Origin of Lansèt Kòd: A Look into Its History

The Haitian tradition of Lansèt Kòd, (rope throwers in English or lanceurs de cordes in French), is rooted in the history of the French colony of Saint Domingue (present-day Haiti). During the colonial period, European-style carnivals were held in Saint Domingue, featuring lavish costumes and festivities.

Enslaved people, who were banned from participating in these carnivals, would stage their own mini-carnivals in their backyards, dress in tattered clothing and carry whips, with their skin smudged in a mix of grease and ashes they imitated and mocked their masters’ behavior.

This tradition was originally created as a form of ridicule of the slave masters, who would attend carnivals dressed in their finery. However, after Haiti gained independence, the newly freed people adopted the European Carnival tradition and infused it with their own music and culture.

Today, the Lansèt Kòd tradition is a celebration of Haitian culture and independence. In the collective imagination of Haitians, the Lansèt Kòd have also evolved into a symbol of good behavior for children, a kind of bogeyman that is used to encourage kids to be well-behaved.

The lansèt kòd in the streets of Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Mark of the Black Hand

As the Lansèt Kòd group leave the lakou and venture out into the streets, they bring with them a sense of dezod (meaning chaos and disorder in Haitian Creole) Their black-painted bodies are a stark contrast against the brightly colored houses of Jacmel. With synchronized stomping and singing, they draw the attention of everyone around them. In the center of the group, a member carries a flagpole waving their banner proudly.

And suddenly, they all break into a sprint.

The lansèt kòd group running through Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In a seemingly choreographed manner they split into smaller groups, running through the narrow city streets while playfully trying to touch others with their black-painted hands. The hunting party has begun.

As the Lansèt Kòd start chasing after unsuspecting bystanders they leave their mark in the form of a black handprint. This may come across as strange or even frightening, but it’s all in good fun and part of the tradition. In fact, the majority of people who receive the “blessing” of the black paint are friends of the Lansèt Kòd entourage.

The lansèt kòd hunt
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

However, there’s one thing you should keep in mind: the Lansèt Kòd have a particular fondness for white clothing. If you’re wearing your finest dress or favorite white shirt, be prepared to end up with a black handprint on your back.

The black mark
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The black marks left by the Lansèt Kòd have a deeper meaning, as they evoke the Haitian proverb “Pito nou lèd, nou la,” meaning “We may be ugly, but we are still here.” This powerful statement is connected to the brutal system of slavery and symbolizes the idea that being free and alive, even if it means being “ugly,” is preferable to being subjugated under French rule.

A moto passenger being marked
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

A Shared Caribbean Tradition

The Haitian cultural tradition of Lansèt Kòd in can be found in different forms throughout the Caribbean. At Trinidad’s Carnival, participants of Jouvert (French for daybreak) cover their bodies in a variety of substances, including oil and body paint, to party in the streets. Jouvert celebrates a rebellious spirit, contrasting the allure of glitter, color, and feathers that dominate the mainstream carnival.

In Grenada, groups known as Jab-Jab participate in the annual Carnival. The name comes from the French word “Diable,” and Jab-Jab is essentially a giant street party with participants covering themselves in oil, mud, or grease and wearing cattle horns to embody the Jab-Molassie or “molasses devil”.

These traditions have roots in the pre-Lent festivities of former French colonies, where the wealthy class would don elaborate costumes and dance to orchestral music. Meanwhile, ex-slaves, with limited resources, would use ashes from burned cane, grease, and other materials to cover themselves in a satirical nod to slavery days. The music back then was created with the beating of biscuit tins, oil drums, and the blowing of conch shells. Today, these traditions have been preserved and continue to give the Caribbean region its vibrant and distinct character.

The lansèt kòd passing Alliance Française
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Final Ritual

The Lansèt Kèd group keeps the energy high as they traverse the streets of Jacmel on this sunny January Sunday. They run through the winding roads, including Rue Seymour Pradel and the picturesque Rue du Commerce, home to historic gingerbread houses. The group stops traffic at street intersections, causing cars to honk and onlookers to either flee or gather for a closer view.

A final run
Photo: Franck Fontain

As the day goes on and the steep city streets are conquered, fatigue seems unlikely to set in. The group is invigorated by their shared excitement and a dose of Haitian moonshine, known as “kleren.”

While the sun dips below the horizon in the bay of Jacmel, the previously split-up groups converge at the ocean boardwalk in Lakou New York. Laughter and conversation fill the air as the members swap stories from their day. The atmosphere is one of joy and camaraderie.

The group members run into the ocean
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Finally, at the signal from the leader, one member waves the group’s flag, a symbol of their bond and pride. And the rest of the group makes its way into the ocean for the final ritual of the day. The waves crash against their bodies, washing away the remnants of the black paint and any evidence of the day’s festivities. A ritualistic cleansing before the next Sunday’s performance.

The final lansèt kòd ritual
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Get in on the Action

Want to join the festivities and experience the unique Haitian tradition of Lansèt Kòd? You can do so by visiting JacmelJérémieCap-Haïtien, Les Cayes or other major cities in Haiti during the carnival season. Jacmel is considered the best destination for its rich history and lively pre-carnival activities, with Lansèt Kòd groups starting their weekly performances from the first Sunday of January and continuing every Sunday until the Trois Jours Gras (the three fat days), where the main carnival parade takes place.

During the Trois Jours Gras, the rope throwers play a unique role in the main carnival parade. Not only do they represent the enslaved people of the colony of Saint Domingue, but they also help maintain order during the parade. In stark contrast to their usual image as chaos-makers they joyfully chase anyone who tries to disturb the parade.

So, if you’re thinking of disrupting the parade, be prepared to be pursued by the rope throwers. And, who knows, you might just end up being blackened.

For a more unique experience, consider joining a Lansèt Kòd for their Sunday performance. They welcome new participants and will gladly integrate you into this quirky, important symbolic tradition. To learn more, talk to your local friends, host, guide, or tour operator.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published January 2023.


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La Maison Dufort: Defining Haitian Architecture in Port-au-Prince

La Maison Dufort in Bois-Verna, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

La Maison Dufort

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In the quiet residential area of Bois-Verna in Port-au-Prince, you will find la Maison Dufort (the Dufort House), one of the jewels of the emblematic architectural style of Gingerbread houses in Haiti. It is a vestige of this architectural style that was especially popular around the turn of the century in Haiti – in cities such as Port-au-Prince, JacmelCap-Haïtien, or Jérémie.

With their particular charm, these houses have managed to remarkably resist Haiti’s hot and humid tropical climate, not to mention numerous natural disasters over the years. Nowadays, they constitute an integral part of Haiti’s architectural heritage, and the Dufort House is undoubtedly one of the most curious examples of this classic and refined architecture.

The Dufort House: Over a century of History

The house is also in a quiet area of Port-au-Prince where art lovers of all kinds can meet to display their works, discuss art during a gallery opening, and admire the exhibitions that cover the walls of the charming house. Or you can simply enjoy a cold beer during a show or concert.

If you ever take a detour between 2nd and 3rd Avenues du Travail, it is unlikely you’ll resist the flowery façade, old wooden doors, pointed roofs, and magnificent balconies of the Dufort House. The arrangement of these architectural elements gives the structure an eclectic look that contrasts with the peaceful neighborhood of Bois-Verna. The Dufort House is a true architectural masterpiece and one of the most remarkable examples of this typically twentieth-century Haitian style.

Haitian architect Léon Mathon, one of the three main architects who would popularize this architectural style in Haiti, designed the house in 1910. Like most of the other Gingerbread houses built during this period, it was first used as a family residence, belonging to – none other than – the powerful Dufort family. The structure was then used as an office building until 2010, when the January 12 earthquake severely damaged it.

Veranda area of La Maison Dufort
Photo: Franck Fontain

A walk through Maison Dufort

The Dufort House presents its visitors with an agreeable mix of opulence, elegance, class, and comfort. The building is nestled amidst a rustic setting that consists of a 1,200 square meter paved courtyard, a bougainvillea garden, and flowerbeds all around the house. Taken all together, it’s a serene setting where you can quickly forget the somewhat chaotic feeling of Port-au-Prince’s urban center.

The main entrance leads into a vestibule that connects to three other rooms. Opposite the vestibule is a magnificent wooden spiral staircase that leads to the second level. The second level’s high roof, beautiful casement windows, wooden floor, and balcony are all typical of Gingerbread architecture. These elements ensure that the rooms on the upper level maintain a pleasant ambient temperature, thanks to the constant breeze.

The Dufort House is of particular architectural interest, as it combines the two most distinctive features of Haitian Gingerbread architecture. While some buildings of this type are either entirely brick or entirely wood, the Dufort House elegantly combines these two varieties. The first level has a concrete and brick frame, but the second level is made entirely of wood, not to mention its wooden balcony, which is an unmistakable feature of these historic homes.

Art exhibition at La Maison Dufort
Photo: Franck Fontain

Le Musée Dufort

The Dufort House Museum is currently run by Fondasyon Konesans ak Libète (the FOKAL Foundation), which uses it as a museum for the various exhibitions it organizes with other partners, such as Centre d’Art (the Art Center). The Dufort House hosts major artistic and cultural events, including the Vives exhibition in January and February of 2022, and still presents other seasonal exhibitions or cultural activities.

In 2016, the house and museum were renovated with the support of FOKAL and WMF as part of a worksite dedicated to preserving the architectural heritage of Gingerbread houses in Haiti. It has been operational and open to the public since.

Today, the House and Museum are Port-au-Prince’s true refuge for art enthusiasts. Just finding oneself inside its timeless setting makes the trip well worth it. The structure is a work of art itself, and the exhibits will make you want to visit time and again.

La Maison Dufort in Bois-Verna, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

How to visit

The Dufort House and Museum are located at number 9 on the 2nd Rue du Travail, in Port-au-Prince, right down the street from Saint Adres medical institute, between the 1st Rue du Travail and Rue Vilmenay. The fastest route is from Champs-de-Mars via Avenue Charles Sumner, which then forks into the Second Avenue du Travail. Hiring a taxi would be most ideal.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published November 2020.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Eight of the Best Books Written by Haitian Women Authors

A Haitian woman at Pic Macaya
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Eight of the Best Books Written by Haitian Women Authors

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Women’s voices form an essential part of contemporary literature, with an increasing number imposing themselves on the international literary scene. Poets, novelists, essayists, and theorists, these women writers never fail to deliver when it comes to creative genius. Haitian women writers have refused to remain on the sidelines in a male-dominated environment.

We’ve rounded up eight of the most brilliant books by Haitian women authors to make room for on your bookshelf.

Love, Anger, Madness by Marie Vieux-Chauvet

Here is a novel that critics won’t stop praising anytime soon. Leading to its author’s exile from Haiti, Marie Vieux-Chauvet’s Love, Anger, Madness (Amour, colère, folie) was immediately banned by the political regime in place when it was published in 1968. A trilogy in one volume, the novel follows three sisters; Claire, Félicia, and Annette, all of whom live under the dictator Duvalier’s authoritarian regime. Each of them corresponds to one of the words in the title, and each will see their family fall apart in this tragedy.

This novel is considered one of the most beautiful in modern Haitian literature. For Haitian-Canadian author Dany Laferrière, Marie Vieux-Chauvet possesses “the clear and pure voice of a lucid and unshakeable novelist.” If you want to begin stocking your library with literature by Haitian women writers, you’ll do well to start with this remarkably well-written, must-read novel.

The Colour of Dawn by Yanick Lahens

A common theme of Haitian literature is the imprint left by the many political crises and repressive regimes the country has faced. Fortunately, they haven’t managed to stifle the voices of our talented Haitian women writers. Yannick Lahens is one of the most brilliant examples of this creative genius and an expression of the certain attachment an engaged writer feels to their homeland.

Published in 2008 (by Sabine Wespieser), The Colour of Dawn (La couleur de l’aube) tells the story of a Haitian family facing a political crisis, misery, and violence. Fignolé, the youngest of the siblings, doesn’t come home one night while bullets are raining down on Port-au-Prince. His mother and two sisters, each with their own unique temperament, set out together to find him.

Savage Seasons by Kettly Mars

No better work can follow the latter novels mentioned than this remarkable book by Kettly Mars. Attesting to the dark moments of oppression and suffering experienced by Haitian families during the Duvalier dictatorship, Savage Seasons (Saisons sauvages) tells the story of Nirvah. To save her husband, who is imprisoned at the infamous Fort Dimanche, Nirvah must offer up her body to the then Secretary of State.

Savage Seasons testifies poignantly to an era deeply rooted in Haitian memory. It’ll surely strike you with its gritty realism.

Dew Breaker by Edwidge Danticat

In this curious tale, Edwidge Danticat surprises us with the confession delivered by the main character, who, from one day to the next, goes from executioner and torturer to prey. He gives us an incredible account of the lives he has destroyed and seen ruined.

The protagonist saves himself from the populist purge thanks to the love of a woman and her daughter. However, he’s constantly confronted by ghosts of his past that stick to him and prove challenging to get rid of, despite being in exile.

Guillaume and Natalie by Yanick Lahens

In reading this surprising love story by Yanick Lahens, it’s easy to get caught up in the eroticism that emanates from the unusual couple at the heart of the novel. The author admits that she’s always wanted to write a love story. Still, despite the muted sensuality that emerges at the start, our two lovebirds are quickly brought back to the reality of their city and country. This narrative helps create a compelling and authentic-feeling love story.

Taking place the day before the 2010 earthquake, Guillaume and Natalie offer a taste of local Haitian color. Without resorting to fatalism, Lahens tells us the love story of a fifty-year-old sociologist and his encounter with Natalie, a thirty-year-old whose love for Haiti brings her back home after years of absence – and despite the wounds, she carries from her time there.

The Farming of Bones by Edwidge Danticat

The brilliant pen of one of Haiti’s best women writers, Edwidge Danticat, often transports us back in time and, through memory, allows us to experience past moments. Her second novel, The Farming of Bones, takes us back with vigor to one of the darkest periods in the history of Haiti and the Dominican Republic: the parsley massacre (Masak nan Pèsil)).

This novel is not only in the service of memory, however. It tells the remarkable love story of an orphan named Amabelle and a Haitian sugar cane cutter named Sebastien.

Amabelle is taken in and raised by a Dominican family as a young girl and becomes their servant. Meanwhile, the situation of Haitians changes drastically following the rise of the dictator Trujillo in the Dominican Republic. Amabelle manages to escape the bloody Persil massacre, but at what cost? This book marks a powerful tribute to the voices of those silenced, and reveals Danticat to be one of our most poetic writers alive.

Moonbath by Yanick Lahens

Moonbath (Bain de lune) is one of Yanick Lahens’ best-known books. Centered on  Haitian peasantry in the town of Anse Bleue, Lahens’ novel tells the story of a young girl who is found washed up on the shore. In reading Moonbath, you’ll be immediately plunged into a whirlwind of colors and scents, a true kaleidoscope of scenes infused with the poetry of popular Haitian beliefs.

Love, lust, Haitian peasantry, Vodou, and struggles for power: are all found in this cleverly composed novel, which won Lahens the prestigious Femina Prize (Prix Femina) in 2014.

Breath Eyes Memory by Edwidge Danticat

You’re likely to enjoy this sensitive tale spun by Edwidge Danticat. It’s the story of love and conflict that unites Sophie and her mother, who had not been in her life for her first twelve years. When Sophie leaves to join her mother in the United States, she must confront her contradictory feelings, including the fact that she has always considered her aunt to be her actual mother.

Danticat builds this moving story around traditional maternal figures and the obsession with preserving virginity and “female purity.” In it, we have a variety of compelling characters: Grandmother Ife, whose blessing must be sought; Martine, who finds herself with a child whose face reminds her of ghosts from the past, but whom she nonetheless tries to protect; Atie, the aunt, who injects all of her feelings of motherhood (for better or worse) into Sophie, who lies at the heart of this magnificent novel.

Just like our enchanting landscapes, historic forts, white sandy beaches, and colorful museums, the literature of our most brilliant Haitian woman authors is worth discovering. So, don’t hesitate to add this unique collection of titles to your reading list today!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published November 2022.


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11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Lansèt kod group in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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If you already know a little about Haiti, then you likely have an idea about our magnificent country, located on the enchanting island of Hispaniola that we share with the Dominican Republic. It’s possible, however, that you have yet to hear about some of the most unique Haitian cultural traditions only known to locals.

To satisfy your curiosity, we’ve rounded up a selection of our oldest traditions, ranging from the daily life in our rural communities to the hubbub of our cities and rich culinary culture.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. “Krik-Krak”

Any true Haitian knows that the exclamation “krik?” always proceeds with an excellent “krak,” or story, as telling tales is an integral part of Haiti’s cultural traditions. Whether under an arbor drinking lemongrass tea with cinnamon or in the comfort of a warm room, the youngest gather around the oldest to tell their tales of yesteryear.

If you want to catch the attention of a Haitian friend, take every opportunity to throw out a “krik?” and they will invariably respond with a “krak.” But your story better be a good one!

Sounds interesting, doesn’t it? Get the backstory to this unique tradition and discover the impact of krik-krak in Haitian culture. Also, for an excellent read, the book Krik? Krak! is a compilation of fascinating Haitian tales by Edwidge Danticat, one of the most famous Haitian women authors to date.

Workers in a konbit in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

2. Konbit

If you pass through some rural regions in Haiti during the tilling season, don’t be surprised to find all the villagers working together or on each other’s lands. This form of social organization in our rural societies is an essential part of our culture and one of the oldest Haitian traditions that continue to this day.

While the men happily handle their kouto digo (hatchet), and machetes to unearth and work the land before its next sowing, women prepare the meals. Moreover, the word “konbit” in Haitian Creole has come into use to refer to living in harmony and the neighborly practices that are unique to the Haitian community.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

3. Lakou

Imagine living in a homeland within another, where each individual forms an integral part of a larger society devoted to a greater good. In Haiti, such a place is known as a lakou. It’s typical to see Haitian families sharing common spaces around their central family units.

The lakou serves as an educational cocoon in which the youngest members can learn about sharing and living in neighborly harmony from their elders. Those who grow up in the commune have a responsibility to one day return to honor their family, seek wise advice, and publicly apologize to the Vodou spirits or loas that may have been offended.

Many Haitian rural communities rely on the social organization that lakou provide to advance in everyday living – and not only do they till the ground together but also share and practice their belief in Haitian Vodou. The worship of spirits is deeply entrenched in the lakou, and well-known lakou like Souvans, Soukri, and Badio maintain this cultural tradition unique to Haiti.

Beny chans preparations in Kabik
Photo: Anton Lau

4. Beny chans

It might seem strange from the looks of it initially, but if you happen to come across a large water bowl of mixed herbs and leaves while traveling through Haiti, then you’ve encountered a “beny chans.” Traditionally an herbal shower for women after giving birth, it is also considered a potion for good luck, finding a soulmate, or even protection during a life-changing trip.

If you didn’t grow up in Haiti, you might be wary about dipping your hands in this unusual mixture. Still, for locals, it’s all part of the unique Haitian culture – so much so that it wouldn’t be surprising for a native living abroad to return to Haiti to receive this sacred anointment on New Year’s eve.

Feeling adventurous? Go and give it a try. But don’t forget to tap into your African-Caribbean roots with our guide on returning to the motherland.

a vodou priest and practitioner performing a dance
Ritual at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. Vodou ceremony and dance

Here’s one of the Haitian cultural traditions that will undoubtedly arouse your curiosity. Forget about the mainstream concept of a group of bloodthirsty Satanists gathering at a run-down Gothic-style church – this is Hollywood stereotyping at its best. Instead, think of an authentic spiritual experience where members enter a trance-like state in alignment with powerful spiritual entities.

Haitian culture isn’t the only one that has Vodou as a religious practice, with similar rituals actively performed in places like the Deep South” in Louisiana or the insular African nation of Benin. In countries such as Brazil and Cuba, the practice of Santeria is still common in many communities. The Haitian Vodou tradition, however, involves elements from years of syncretism, resulting in a blend of African, Christian, and Taíno spiritual traditions.

Vodou is a strong cultural tradition in the Haitian collective imagination—and it’s present in Haitian paintings, music, dances, and literature. More than simply religion or spirituality, Vodou is an intangible patrimony that all Haitians share, whether they consider themselves a true practitioner or not.

Ready for an experience of your own? Find out how to attend a Vodou ceremony in Haiti.

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

6. Fèt Gede

The dead occupy a place of central importance in Haitian daily life, and honoring them constitutes one of the most sacred cultural traditions. To do this, the entire month of November is consecrated each year to ceremonies aimed at appeasing the dead and communicating with them. The spirits that reign over the world of the dead in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Bawon Samdi and Grann Brigitte.

The Gédé symbolizes the spirits of those who have passed into the other world. During the ceremonies organized in their honor, they return to bring joy to the people with their frenzied dancing and salacious speech.

Every Haitian day of the dead celebration is packed with an aura of excitement and mysticism, which you can see for yourself in this photo journal from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band marching in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

7. Rara

Not all Haitian cultural traditions have origins as dark as those about death. In fact, some of them are rather joyous, and the Rara is a perfect example. These groups that march on foot along the streets during pre-Carnaval weekends and the Easter period constitute one of Haiti’s best-known cultural practices.

These spirited groups of bons vivants play various instruments, such as bamboo, the vaccine, cymbals, and sometimes even trumpets and other brass instruments. Their repertoire can run from parodies of popular songs to original songs and those written for special occasions.

Each group is preceded by a man who carries a flag, a woman who wears the group’s colors, and young girls who start the procession. Following are musicians and the rest of the good-natured group that dances along to the sound of the music.

Now, the practice of Rara isn’t only particular to Haiti; other Caribbean nations like Cuba and the Dominican Republic, where it is known as Gaga, have adopted this cultural tradition from Haiti.

Get the true origins behind the Rara tradition of Haiti and join the celebration!

A group of lansèt kod in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Lansèt kòd

If you visit Haiti during the Carnival period, you’ll undoubtedly have the chance to witness one of the most unforgettable cultural traditions: the famous procession of the Lansèt Kòd. Some Haitians will tell you that they were traumatized by it as children. These groups that flood the streets of towns such as Jacmel, Jérémie, or Cap-Haïtien on pre-Carnival Sundays have more than what it takes to impress.

Wearing bull horns on their heads and whips in hand, these men with rippling muscles and bare chests fill up the streets while covered entirely in black paint. Yes, you read that right—they are completely covered with a blacker-than-black substance that will surely make you think of crude oil. Throughout the Carnival procession, they’ll offer up a performance that will remain ingrained in your memory for some time.

Learn more about the Lansèt kòd tradition here!

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Carnival

The Haitian carnival is one of the most widely recognized in the Caribbean. The one hosted in Jacmel has been decreed a national festival due to its artistic allure, attracting numerous tourists every year. It is a brightly colored cultural manifestation where you’ll see Haitian artisans’ talent displayed in themes reminiscent of flora and fauna of the country.

This popular celebration is not only an occasion for artists and artisans to display their talents or attract visitors – but it’s also a means for the population to express their problems with the powers that be. It’s a celebration where all levels of society come together without embarrassment or worrying about societal barriers.

If you’re looking to be part of the festivities this February, then you’d better be prepared to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval.

A bowl of soup joumou
Soup Joumou
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Soup Joumou

If you visit any Haitian family on New Year’s Day, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by a culinary practice as old as Haiti: the traditional Soup Joumou preparation. So forget about your desire to eat anything else, and let our succulent soup seduce your tastebuds.

Prepared from a giraumont (turban squash) base, where the soup gets its name -as well as vegetables and tubers – this dish is a staple in all Haitian households on New Year’s Day. Don’t be surprised to see people incorporating Soup Joumou with every meal served during the entire celebration. It’s just that good.

This tradition hearkens back to January 1st, 1804, when the young nation chose this delicious dish – until then only reserved for the colonizers and special guests – to celebrate their freshly acquired liberty.

Want to find out what makes Soup Joumou so unique? Pick up on some of the history behind the dish, and learn the basics of preparing the best Soup Joumou.

Fête champêtre in Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Fête champêtre

Every city in Haiti has its own patron Saint to which the inhabitants turn to confess their troubles and joys or make special petitions. These cultural celebrations of the patron saints, also called fête champêtres, are on another level.

Regardless of their religious beliefs, locals from other provincial towns, as well as a crowd of curious onlookers and tourists, head toward the capital cities from each village to celebrate the feast dedicated to the patron saint.

Along with religious pilgrims, you also have the partygoers who are only there to enjoy the festival following the Grand Mass of the local parish. Among the most popular fêtes champêtres in Haiti are the celebrations of Notre Dame of Mount Carmel in Saut d’Eau and Notre Dame in Petit Goâve.

Gather with the locals and go on a pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau, whether for spiritual reasons or just to celebrate and party hard with the crowd.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2022.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle