Adventure travel

Labadee Beach

April 8, 2019 by admin

Artwork spelling out the name Labadee stands on beach, Haiti, with cruise ship docked — Labadee Beach
Photo: Shutterstock

Labadee Beach

A horseshoe-shaped bay set into the northern coastline, Labadee is the beach of choice for the cruise ships that regularly call at Haiti.

The beach stretches over a mile of soft, silky sand, and crystal-clear blue waters. Labadee is on the same coast as the beautiful Cormier beach, but offers a unique array of attractions catering to visitors who arrive on the cruise ships.

You don’t need to join a cruise to get here though – while the Haitian government leases a portion of the bay to Royal Caribbean, most of the area is open to other visitors, and many of the attractions can be accessed by non-cruise guests for a fee.

Feeling adventurous?

Labadee beach is home to top-notch adventure attracions including coastal tours, water parks, kayaking, snorkelling and the Dragon’s Breath – the world’s longest over-water zip-line.

If you’re planning to come to Labadee for any of these activities, you’ll want to time your trip to coincide with a visit from one of the cruise liners.

We recommend getting in touch with Royal Caribbean, Celebrity Cruises, or Azamara Club Cruises. This is where you will be able to get information on which attractions are open when, at what fee, and which ones are accessible to visitors of the area who are not passengers of the cruise ship.

Getting there

If you are not coming to Labadee via a Royal Caribbean cruise ship, you can reach it by taking a plane, bus or car to the city of Cap-Haïtien. From there, Labadee is but a thirty minute drive away.

Driving along the coast, you’ll have to resist the urge to stop, drop, and hop into the water at local beaches like Kaylolo or Chato Relaxo, but the wait will be worth it. Although popular with big cruise ships, Labadee remains one of the most homey, warm, welcoming places the north coast has to offer.

Tips for making the most of your trip

The beaches here have lovely tropical water but can be rocky underfoot – bring water shoes to make it easier on your feet.

Lounges along the beach are free, but staff expect a tip for setting them up. Bring single HTGs or American dollars with you so that you don’t get caught out.

If you’re looking to experience real Haitian culture, be aware that you won’t find much of it at Labadee. No problem, though (or as Haitians say, pa gen pwoblem): you’ll find plenty of Arts & Culture in nearby Cap-Haïtien.

An important note for cruise ship passengers who would like to explore more of Labadee and of the North of Haiti in general is that the area where the ships dock is a beach resort cut off from the rest of the island. Cruise ship passengers are limited to staying on the beach resort grounds. Attractions made available there are open to passengers, but visiting places like the Citadelle, Sans-Souci Palace, Dondon or the city of Cap-Haïtien itself is not possible.

Although heavily commercialized, Labadee is still a gorgeous, tropical delight worth visiting whether you are on a cruise ship or as part of an independent Haitian adventure.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019

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Citadelle Henri

April 4, 2019 by admin

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière and mountain range, Haiti — Citadelle Laferrière, Milot
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Citadelle Henri

Citadelle Henri is the largest fortress in the Americas.

Citadelle Henri, known to locals simply as La Citadelle, is the largest fortress in the Americas. Haitians call it the eighth wonder of the world and, if you make it up the summit of Pic Laferrière, you’ll see why.

The mountaintop fortress is massive, rising a vertiginous hundred and thirty feet from the mountaintop of Bonnet a L’Eveque, around 3000 feet above sea level. The Citadelle commands unparalleled views in every direction over the surrounding landscape of jungle-clad mountains, rivers and ocean.

Citadelle Henri, Milot
Photo: Anton Lau

What You’ll See

The imposing structure was built to demonstrate the power of a newly-independent Haiti, but also to protect its citizens if the French attempted to retake the nation. The 100,000 square feet building includes several cisterns and storehouses, designed to provide enough food and water for the royal family and up to 5000 people to survive an entire year under siege.

The Citadelle is equipped with over 150 cannons – mostly captured in battle from the English, the French and the Spanish – and thousands of cannon balls, once over 50,000 in total. With such an armory and walls over 13 feet wide and 100 feet high, the fortress was impenetrable.

Fortunately, the French never returned, the canons were never fired in combat, and the Citadelle is much the same today as it was 200 years ago.

Visitors can spend a few hours exploring the historic site. You’ll discover ramparts, drawbridges, canon batteries, galleries, corridors, hidden passages and blind corners designed to outwit invaders. Most of the windows and ramparts overlook sheer drops down the flanks of Pic Laferrière, and beyond that offer spectacular views of the north of Haiti. Inside the courtyard there’s a brand-new museum, gallery and restroom, as well as a small gift shop selling drinks and postcards.

Citadelle Laferrière is Haiti’s most popular tourist destination for Haitians and visitors alike, and occupies a visible place of pride in Haitian culture. You’ll recognise the signature triangular façade on 5 HTG coins and 100 HTG bills, and on the covers of children’s school textbooks.

citadelle Laferrière, Haiti, with mountains in background — Citadelle Laferrière in Milot
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

History

Citadelle Laferrière was constructed between 1805 and 1820, after the African-descended population of Haiti led a successful revolution to throw off their colonial enslavers and declare independence from France. It took 15 years and 20,000 people to build.

Citadelle Laferrière was part of a larger fortification system which included Fort Jacques and Fort Alexandre; all built to protect Haiti from future attacks by colonizers who might sail over from neighboring islands. While other forts were built earlier as part of the revolution, the construction of Citadelle Laferrière was ordered by Henri Christophe in 1805, in the year following the achievement of independence.

The Citadelle towers one hundred and thirty feet over the mountaintop, but even standing at the base of the fortress, you can see far out to sea. More importantly, the Citadelle could be seen from far out at sea – the fortress was a sign to any would-be challengers sailing toward the newly-free nation that Haiti was prepared to defend itself. Overseen by Christophe, construction of the Citadelle was completed in 1820.

A woman hikes up the path to Citadelle Laferrière, Haiti — Citadelle Laferrière, Haiti
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Getting there

The Citadelle is located in the town of Milot, a six- to eight-hour drive north of Port-au-Prince.

The path to the Citadelle begins near the entrance to the nearby Sans-Souci Palace. Here, you will be asked to pay a small fee, and a local guide can accompany you to the top. You’ll also find vendors at Sans-Souci, offering drinks and snacks to fuel your hike and souvenirs once you’ve returned.

To make your way up the summit to the Citadelle itself, you have two options: hiking on foot or, for US$15, riding on horseback. Both options are just as scenic and authentic, and both offer their own type of adventure.

The route from Sans-Souci to the Citadalle is only 4 miles (6.5 kilometers) but the climb is significant at over 2000 feet (700 metres), so expect the hike to take you more than two hours. For this reason, you might prefer to stay overnight in Milot or Cap-Haïtien rather than attempting the hike after a long trip from Port-au-Prince or elsewhere.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019

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Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

December 5, 2018 by Editor

Clouds gathering over the peak of Pic La Selle, Haiti — Clouds gathering over Pic La Selle
Photo: Anton Lau

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

This Kreyòl proverb means “Behind mountains, there are more mountains.” Hispaniola is one of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, and Pic La Selle is Haiti’s highest peak.

Part of the La Selle mountain range – which also extends into the Dominican Republic – Pic La Selle is over 8,700 feet, making it the highest mountain peak in Haiti, and the third highest in the Caribbean. If you’re the adventurous type, the La Selle range should be on your radar. A single-day climb affords panoramic views over the island of Hispaniola and out across the Caribbean.

Located in the south-east of the West department of Haiti, La Selle is accessible via the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquets, but also via the small town of Marigot, less than an hour’s drive from Jacmel. From there, the road gets rough, so it’s strongly recommended that you head to Pic La Selle with a 4-by-4.

The roads in Haiti, especially the mountainous ones, can be arduous, and if it is your first time going to Pic La Selle, it’s recommended that you hire a driver or at least a guide who knows the twists and turns in the road. Luckily, you’ll find guides who specialise in guiding hikes from city to summit.

Is the journey more important to you than the destination? You might prefer to hike or drive through the La Selle mountains via Furcy. This scenic route is lusher and the peaks and valleys more dramatic, and will appeal to nature-lovers who don’t necessarily want to scale Pic La Selle itself. Again, your best bet is to have someone on your team who has been before, or to make friends with a local. You can even arrange a guided tour on horseback.

Hiking through the dry coniferous forest, you’ll come to appreciate the saying “Dèyè mòn, gen mòn.” The mountains fold and unfold in front of you, seemingly to no end. Depending on the weather, they may be lanced with tufts of clouds, weaving between them.

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over the borderlands between Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic. This area is part of the expansive Transboundary La Selle-Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, a protected region showcasing the rich biodiversity shared between the two nations.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

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Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

October 15, 2018 by Editor

Aerial view of the waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

A 40 minute drive out of the western city of Les Cayes, the waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June, but this is also when the road to get there is at its most – lets say adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon river that feeds Saut Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January – Haiti’s driest month- it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible – the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, full of exotic bird song blending in with the sound of the waterfall.

On the accessible side, there’s a cobblestone ledge to make it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim and is considered better even than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice cold, but on sunny days (practically all!) It’s worth it! A few hours is in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A climb up a side track leads to the top of the waterfall from where you have a wonderful view and access to some natural pools.

Les Cayes is one of the cities the most travellers don’t reach – Jacmel or Saint-Louis-du-Sud are closer to Port-au-Prince. If you manage to make it as far west as Les Cayes, make it a point to visit Saut Mathurine.

Waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine waterfall, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Getting there

Saut Mathurine is off the beaten path for most travellers – quite literally. The road is unpaved and you’ll need a 4×4 to get there, but it’s worth the bumpy ride. You can hire 4×4 vehicles in Les Cayes. If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well. If you enjoy driving off-road though, getting there is an absolute adventure.

Access to the waterfall is via a park entrance – a gap in the wall with a small office to the side. The entrance fee for travellers is 100 Haitian gourdes. Inside the walls, there’s much more to discover than the waterfall itself – you can walk along the riverside and around steps carved into or laid around the otherwise wild jungle. There is a boutique selling local crafts and a restaurant on site.

Turquoise pool at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Four Reasons Why Haiti Is an Adventure

August 24, 2018 by Editor

Three travellers wading in the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti — Travellers exploring the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Four Reasons Why Haiti Is an Adventure

The jungles, jagged coastlines and wild white-sand beaches of Haiti were made for adventure travel, and the list of thrills is longer than the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range and bigger than Lake Azuéi. Haiti is a place not many tourists go, but where adventure-seekers thrive. It’s a place for the brave and curious.

Head for the hills in the Forêt de Pins, where a myriad of lush trails lead through the tropical conifers to Pic la Selle. Scuba dive off the island of La Gonave and discover a riot of underwater colours. Spend a day snorkeling in the crystal clear waters of Anse a Galets. Go caving behind the wild waterfalls of Bassin Zim. Feel the fresh air and adrenaline as you fly through the skies on the Dragon’s Breath zipline – the longest overwater zipline experience in the world.

You’ll need to do some real exploring

As far as Caribbean destinations go, Haiti is still a path less-travelled. As such – you won’t always find the sorts of creature comforts served up in the luxury hotels of other caribbean destinations, or an exhaustive directory of thoroughly reviewed local experiences. Unspoiled by the throngs of tourists you’d expect elsewhere, Haiti is a destination reserved for the intrepid, the inspired, the intrigued.

Haiti is raw. If the Caribbean was a menu, Haiti would be wild-caught and forest-foraged. For every manicured garden you stumble into, there are a hundred wild white-sand beaches waiting for you to kayak to, and for every paved road there’s a thousand rocky paths heading into the jungle-covered mountains, accessible only on foot. With a few exceptions, you won’t find the coolest cafes on instagram or the picturesque panormas on Pinterest – you’ll have to get out of your room, holster your smartphone, and find them yourself.

People relaxing by the sea at sunset, Haiti — People relaxing by the sea
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

You’ll need to be prepared

You won’t be completely in the dark though – cell phone coverage is pretty good, you can find wifi in the cities and bigger towns, there’s another AirBnB added every month and an increasing number of hotels can be booked directly from a mobile phone. But take spare battery packs for everything – there’s no telling whether the solar electricity advertised at your Airbnb will last as long as claimed.

Google Maps coverage of Haiti is getting better, but there are still shortfalls. For directions to many destination, you’ll need to rely on local guides. All directions you find online should be taken with a grain of salt and seasoned with up-to-date advice. Google Maps can’t guide you through the intricate network of public transportation options, and doesn’t take into account the ravines made impassable by recent rains, or the truck that has been broken down and blocking that road for a week now.

Practice your French – or better yet, Creole!

Before you can navigate your way around boulders, you’ll need to navigate your way around the local languages! For some travellers, the most adventurous aspect of a trip to Haiti will be finding yourself in a country where the vast majority do not speak English. French is the official second language here, so if you have some high school French, dust off that dictionary and brush up before you go. Compared to France and Quebec, the locals of Haiti will be glad for your attempts to speak French, so don’t be shy. Don’t forget to smile and greet everyone with a joyful “Bonjour!”.

Better yet, embrace the chance to learn something new, and have a crack at Haitian Kreyol. You will win over anyone you encounter by making an honest effort at speaking their language. What you lack in vocab you can make up for in enthusiasm: stretch your hands and get ready for a real life game of charades.

Moto on a beach in Haiti — Moto on the beach
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

It’s not a postcard – it’s an experience

If you’re looking to leave behind the theme-park “paradise” offered at the bigger Caribbean islands in favour of something less iconic but more inspiring; if you want to ditch the dull itineraries and dive into a different perspective; if you’re sick of the curated seaside resorts and want to walk among real people shaped by hard work and hope, who’ve overcome more than their fair share of dark history and recent hardship, you’ve come to the right place. If you’re seeking a pinch of unpredictability, visit Haiti.

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” -Anthony Bourdain
-Anthony Bourdain

Expect the unexpected, and don’t forget to bring your sense of adventure!

Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018

Looking for adventure?

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

August 16, 2018 by Editor

New forest growth in Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

Fresh air, deep tree cover and stunning views make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife and nature.

A vast expanse of tropical and subtropical coniferous forests straddling the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic, the Forêt de Pins is located in the south-east corner of Haiti, on the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range.

Fresh air, deep tree cover and hiking opportunities make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife, birdlife and nature. The forest also contains Haiti’s highest mountain, Pic La Selle, which reaches 8773 feet. Pic La Selle offers spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola and climbing the peak, including travel from Port-au-Prince, can easily be done in one weekend.

Forêt de Pins is currently in a process of recovery, after surviving a trend of deforestation that began in the 1930s and peaked in the 1960s. Although local communities have used forest products including timber and charcoal for fuel, the most significant damage was done by large corporations with ties to the government of that time, who sold forest products to American companies that made, of all things, aeronautical resin oil.

Laws are now in place to protect the forest and in 2007 the first reforestation projects began, with 1500 trees planted by locals. With more locals using propane tanks for fuel instead of traditional forest fuels, Forêt de Pins is proving to be an example of positive cooperation between a local government and national interests. This cooperation has been helped by the birth of a conservation network called Réseau pour la Sauvegarde de la Forêt des Pins, or RSFP. RSFP has partnered with Cesal, an international humanitarian aid organization, to fund train-the-trainer education programs in ten schools surrounding the forest. Through this initiative, teachers are able to spread knowledge about how to take care of the forest with low-impact livelihoods.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Forêt de Pins isn’t “out of the woods” yet. Ecotourism is vital for ensuring local Haitians have access to sustainable livelihoods. This is where you come in. Guided hikes and overnight adventures in Forêt de Pins are a great way to encourage wildlife conservation and a great way to see Haiti.

Sunset next to a hotel in the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti — House in Foret des Pins, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to stay

Deep within the forest, there are several huts managed by the Haitian Ministry of Agriculture (MARNDR) which you can stay in through prior arrangement. It’s also possible to pitch your own tent, or find accommodation nearby in the welcoming township of Fonds-Verrettes.

Daisies growing in a field in the Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Flowers, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Verdy Verna

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Most adventures to Forêt de Pins start in Port-au-Prince. If you’re travelling by car, the journey will take you around 4 hours including Friday afternoon traffic. Because the roads are poor in places, you’ll need a 4×4. You can rent one in Port-au-Prince for around US$350 (for up to eight people over two days including full insurance). If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well.

Head out of Port-au-Prince via Croix des Bouquets and continue east on Route Nationale 8 toward the Malpasse/Jimani border crossing. Just after Fonds Parisien, turn right. From here the road is unpaved and rough in places but offers breathtaking views of the landscape, including over the Dominican Republic.

Follow the road into the foothills until you get to the small market town that bears the same name as the forest. In the marketplace, you’ll find a right turn which leads to Gros Cheval – you might need to ask one of the Moto taxi drivers for directions. Once you reach the marketplace in Gros Cheval, look for the green and white health centre building.

At the health centre in Gros Cheval travellers can find basic accommodation for around 500 gourdes per person, meals for around 400 per person, and guides. Guide fees are negotiated on arrival, but you can expect to pay about US$15-$25 per person in your group. Gross Cheval is the recommended departure point for adventurers wishing to climb Pic la Selle.

Daytime forest path in Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018

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Adventure travel

Labadee Beach

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Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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Citadelle Henri

Citadelle Henri is the largest fortress in the Americas.

What You’ll See

History

Getting there

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Find Citadelle Laferrière

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Top things to see around Cap-Haïtien

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Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

Find Pic La Selle

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Citadelle Henri

Looking for adventure?

Paradise for your inbox

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

Getting there

Find Saut-Mathurine

External Links

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Looking for some cool things to discover?

Paradise for your inbox

Four Reasons Why Haiti Is an Adventure

You’ll need to do some real exploring

You’ll need to be prepared

Practice your French – or better yet, Creole!

It’s not a postcard – it’s an experience

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Looking for adventure?

Paradise for your inbox

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

Fresh air, deep tree cover and stunning views make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife and nature.

Where to stay

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

Find Forêt des Pins

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Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

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Plan Your Trip

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Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses