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Festikap Kite Festival

three haitian boys flying a kite
Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Festikap Kite Festival

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Picture this: After a week of adventuring across Haiti, from hikes to road-trips to the beach and hidden waterfalls, it’s time to celebrate the new year. You decide to go to Jacmel and watch the fireworks by the beach. The next day, you throw a picnic blanket in the car, drive up to La Vallée, and admire a sky full of kites while you kick back with food and drinks. You can even try your hand at flying a kite yourself, with the help of other participants or the festival organisers. It will take a little less than 300 gourdes (about US $3) to buy a nice kite and participate.

Because you can buy a kite on arrival, the bar for getting involved is pretty low, so Festikap makes a great spontaneous adventure! The festival happens every January 2nd, making it the perfect activity for anyone planning to spend New Year’s Eve in Jacmel (or – even Port-au-Prince).

Festikap vibes are comparable to Champ-de-Mars in February during carnival. Kites in a stunning display of colors and creativity fill the sky for hours on end: it’s a flying art exhibition. With children running around, elders watching and younger folks flying their kites, the atmosphere in La Vallée is like one big camping trip.

Behind the magic

The famous kite-flying festival of La Vallée de Jacmel — or “La Vallée” as locals call it — will be celebrating its 10th anniversary in the coming year. Festikap is a festival put together by the Organization of Young Valley University Students for Progress (Organisation Universitaire de Jeune Valléens pour Le Progrès) with the goal of preserving a tradition deeply rooted in Haitian culture but threatened by forgetfulness and abandonment. This yearly event serves as an entry point to the beautiful community of La Vallée de Jacmel. The celebrations conveniently happen on January 2nd which is a holiday in Haiti (Ancestor’s day).

Kite flying is a vital part of Haitian culture. Starting in the month of April, on the roofs of houses all across the country, children, their parents, and sometimes even their grandparents can be seen tugging on thin, nearly invisible pieces of thread tied up to makeshift kites. Most of them are made of plastic; the kind used to sell papita or roasted peanuts in — some clear, some blue, some pink. Others are more elaborate, made of brown paper with red and green accents, tails, and flourishes. All together, they dot the bright blue skies of early summer in colorful spiraling swarms.

In preparation for Festikap, organizers put together workshops to create a certain number of kites to be exhibited on that day. This festival is not just recreational, though – the preparation process encourages creativity and community engagement from different crowds. The festival hopes to revive interest in the endangered tradition of making and flying kites, and the efforts that go into planning Festikap can be considered as a kind of movement meant to transfer a skill and salvage a tenuous cultural heritage.

haitian boy in blue jeans with kite
Boy with kite at Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

La Vallée is located an hour’s drive northwest of Jacmel and about three hours’ drive southwest of Port-au-Prince. Although the name La Vallée suggests a low valley hidden in shadows, the town actually stands a half mile (around 800 meters) above sea level, and offers a panoramic view of the south of Haiti. A trip up to La Vallée unlocks the perfect experience for anyone hungry for a little bit more than simply spending a weekend at the beach.

Festikap is a great way to experience Haiti differently and genuinely. If colors, music, and community are your thing, it’s a must-visit event to add to your itinerary!


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published October 2019


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Raymond les Bains

haitians relaxing and dining at table with parasols by beach
Raymond les Bains, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Raymond les Bains

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Just a few hours’ south of Port-au-Prince, the colorful city of Jacmel is best known for its beautiful, expansive beaches. Raymond les Bains is a local favorite, and an attraction not to be missed if you’re in Jacmel. You’ll find a mile-long stretch of soft white sand, framed by palm trees and mountains in the distance.

Like most of the beaches lining Haiti’s stunning southern coast, Raymond les Bains has a nice, gradual slope into the water and soft, smooth sand. On bright, sunny days (Jacmel sees 230 a year) Raymond les Bains is a textbook example of a Caribbean paradise.

Raymond les Bains is also a popular night time attraction. There is a lot more music, more to drink, and the atmosphere is much more fit for dancing and meeting new people! If you are lucky, you might even catch a full moon reflected on the Caribbean Sea.

Don’t miss: the freshly-grilled fish

For seafood lovers, the highlight of Raymond les Bains might be the food. Grilled fish is a local specialty and the menu is teeming with options.

To order, visitors can take a seat at any table on the beach. Expect to be approached by merchants selling all sorts – gum, drinks, snacks, jewellery – but keep an eye for the waiter or waitress at the restaurant. Our top tip is to ask to see the fish before you settle on your order; different price points get you different fish; and even at a specific price point, you still get to pick from a variety of fish.

You can ask if there is a choice of accompaniment for the fish; most places offer the standard fried plantains or fried potatoes. Depending on the season, you might even find fried breadfruit – a Caribbean delicacy not to be missed. This fried tropical staple provides a crisp, savory contrast to mouth-watering freshly-grilled fish, elevating what sounds like a simple, everyday dish to a memorable island experience.

Getting there

8 miles east of downtown Jacmel, Raymond les Bains is en route to Cayes-Jacmel and Marigot.

Look out for the “Bienvenue à Raymond les Bains” signage on the right side of the road. From there, the road dips and narrows down a sandy path flanked by small houses on the left, and the sound of slow waves crashing on the beach on the right. Continue on until you reach the gate – and gatekeepers.

Because it is a public beach cleaned and maintained by the locals, Raymond les Bains is gated, and does require a small fee to enter. Expect to pay at least 100 HTG per car. Once that is taken care of, you will be asked to enter and park your car off to the side.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2019


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Explore the enchanting ruins of Fort Saint-Louis

Tree roots growing down into the ruined passages of Fort des Anglais, Haiti
Fort Saint-Louis, Haiti
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore the enchanting ruins of Fort Saint-Louis

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A microcosm of Haitian history

The overgrown ruins of this 300 year-old French-built fort will enchant visitors for hours (and archaeologists for days), but to get there you’ll need to hire a boat.

Fort Saint-Louis stands on an islet in the Bay of St Louis, and is accessible via a short boat ride from Fort de Olivier, a fortress on the nearby peninsula of Saint Louis du Sud. Constructed at the same time, these two forts are often called ‘sisters,’ and are two of many strategically dotted along the coastline.

Just outside the seaside fortress, an abandoned shipwreck peeks up from underwater. For locals, this shipwreck is a microcosm of Haitian history. Across the country, relics of more dangerous times dot the landscape, their defences now serving to preserve cultural memories instead of material treasure, and changing over time as the years and the tropical storms assert their strength.

Aerial photo of shipwreck at Fort des Anglais, Haiti
Abandoned shipwreck at Fort Saint-Louis
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The extensive ruins of modern-day Fort Saint-Louis rise steeply from a craggy islet, the curtain wall of stone now thickly overgrown with vines and trees that blow in the tropic coastal breeze. After three hundred years of equatorial sunshine, sea salt and hurricanes, the outline of the fort is in remarkably good condition, and it’s still possible to walk through its many chambers and admire the original carved features set into the outer walls. You can still walk through some of the caves originally networked into the fortress.

Walking under the arches of the structure of the fort with branches and lianas hanging left and right feels surreal; it is almost as though you are one of the shift guards, waiting for the British to invade at any moment. Although severely weathered, the fort feels as towering and as imposing as it must have been three centuries ago.

Built in 1702 by French occupiers, Fort Saint-Louis was designed to defend the Haitian territory against their colonial competitors – namely the British Empire. In 1748, less than fifty years later, the was captured by the British. As a result, it’s now known as Fort des Anglais by many locals.

The southern coastline of Haiti was hotly contested in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as a foothold from which to defend the country’s riches. Although modern Haiti is known for its pristine beaches, colonial-era Haiti made a name for itself in European cities through the high-quality goods brought back by traders returning from its shores. Fort Saint-Louis was built just five years after the French and Spanish divided up the island of Hispaniola into two separate countries – Dominican Republic on the East and Haiti on the West.

Person stands on the bow of a boat to Fort des Anglais, Haiti
Boat to Fort Saint-Louis
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

Fort des Oliviers is located on a small peninsula in Saint Louis du Sud. From there, Fort Saint-Louis is on a small island a short boat ride away. For a small fee, the local sailors offer their boats – and often times, dugout canoes – as a mode of transportation.

Get the most out of your visit

Tour guides, who often live nearby in Saint Louis du Sud, or in the areas surrounding Fort des Oliviers, are always ready to provide their services by accompanying visitors and talking them through the history of the fort and the features that have stood the test of time.

Today, Fort Saint-Louis stands as a testament to a period in time and a state of mind that permeate the way modern Haitians understand and process their history.

Walking through the fort with someone who lives the complexity of that history is the best way to gain a nuanced understanding of what this beautiful ruin means.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published March 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Gelée Beach

Boat anchored in turquoise water off Gelée Beach, Haiti
Gelée Beach, Haiti
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Gelée Beach

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Situated in the heart of the Caribbean, between Cuba and the Dominican Republic, Haiti has over a thousand miles of coastline with dozens of destination-worthy beaches.

We’re talking white sand and turquoise water swelling up to coconut palms, chalk cliffs or jungle-clad mountains rolling off into the distance. Whether you choose one of the island’s most treasured coves or one of its many undiscovered wonders, the water here is warm all year round.

Gelée Beach

Located near Les Cayes in southern Haiti, Gelée Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Haiti. Highlights including the beachside fritay merchants and the chance to see cows grazing in fields that reach almost to the water’s edge. Compared to other popular beaches in Haiti, the surrounds are flat and open. Pastoral scenery notwithstanding, the water is tropical and the swimming here is lush.

The beach itself winds around the southern coastline for miles, with soft, pillowy sand melting into some of the most crystal clear waters you’ll find anywhere on the island – or in the Caribbean, for that matter.

Grab a bite

Colorful shacks of food vendors dot the treeline. The number of them is a testament to how popular Gelee beach is and how good the seafood is here. If you’ve already tried Haitian cuisine in Port-au-Prince, you’ll be familiar with the fried plantains and meat – typically called fritay, but don’t miss the chance to try the locally-caught seafood.

If you find the queues for the beachside food overwhelming, you’ll find a choice of restaurants and hotels a short drive from the beach.

At night, Gelée transforms into a lively, well-lit destination for dinner by the shore. The broad boulevard fills with music and foot traffic. People flock to the beach for Gelée’s specialty – grilled fish with fried plantains. Avoid a long wait by going with a local who can walk right up to their vendor of choice and order the right way.

Watch our video of the twoubadou band Tet Ansanm Twouba from Gelée Beach.

Getting there

Gelée beach is a twenty minute drive from downtown Les Cayes. As city gives way to surf, the road gives way to a sandy dirt track. Park off Route de Gelee and walk through the main entrance to the beach – the one closest to the bars and music – to be welcomed by the most picturesque view of the beach.

When to go

Every year, on August 15, the residents of Les Cayes celebrate Patron Saint festival of Our Lady of the Assumption. Thousands of people from all parts of Haiti and from the diaspora come to Les Cayes to participate in the festivities. If August 15 falls on a Friday, some extend their stay to the whole weekend.

During the festival, music can be heard from every rooftop, sidewalk, and front door of the city. There are plenty of activities for kids, and the highlight is the kite building and flying contest in Gelée, where adults and children come together. Kite-flying is hugely popular in Haiti, and has an entire season dedicated to it: kite season!

For a vibrant slice of Haitian summer life, August 15 is the perfect time to visit Gelée and Les Cayes.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

Fort des Oliviers, Haiti, seen from off the coast
Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

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On a rocky peninsula just a short walk from Saint Louis du Sud, Fort des Oliviers dates back to the start of the eighteenth century.

A glimpse of the past

As you walk past cannons propped on stones, your mind will wander back to the time of double-breasted military uniforms and rifles. Staircases ascend and descend to the upper and interior levels of the fort – or the parts of it that have been preserved despite the elements. Wandering up the stairs, under archways and around the ancient artillery allows you to glimpse the experience of construction workers – both French and Haitian, who – more than three hundred years ago – put each of these stones into place.

Exploring the ruins of Fort des Oliviers, visitors can get a sense for the colonial era in which it was built. Three centuries have suffused the weathered walls of the fort with character. The stone has been softened and polished by the salt air and waves. Fort des Oliviers is as much a product of the coastal landscape as it is of those who built it.

If you are looking to deepen your understanding of Haiti’s colonial history, a visit to Fort des Oliviers is absolutely in order!

Palm trees on the way to Fort des Oliviers, Haiti
Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Franck Fontain

Steeped in history

Built in 1702, Fort des Oliviers was built by French occupiers to defend the Haitian territory against their colonial competitors – namely the British Empire. Unfortunately for the French, the British did indeed take over Fort des Oliviers about fifty years later, and established it as a pit-stop port for British ships to rest and refuel their crews.

The southern coastline of Haiti was hotly contested in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as a foothold from which to defend the country’s riches. Although modern Haiti is known for its pristine beaches, colonial-era Haiti made a name for itself in European cities through the high-quality goods brought back by traders returning from its shores. Fort des Oliviers was built just a few years after the French and Spanish divided up the island of Hispaniola into two separate countries – Dominica on the East and Haiti on the West.

The living heritage of relics like Fort des Oliviers make it impossible to separate the insistent natural beauty of the landscape from the history that has shaped modern Haiti as a living, breathing organism. This sense of identity and purpose is what drives the carnival attitude and lust for life that sets Haiti apart as one of the best places to visit in the Caribbean.

If you’re thirsty for more adventure, you’ll find another old fortress on an islet in the bay visible from Fort des Oliviers. This is Fort Saint-Louis, constructed at the same time as Fort des Oliviers. The islet is also home to an abandoned shipwreck famous among locals.

Fort Saint-Louis is accessible via a short boat ride from the coast.

Getting there

Fort des Oliviers is a short walk from the township of Saint-Louis-du-Sud. While you’re in town, get directions to the highway side market and sample some of the famous street food. If you only try one thing, look for the lady selling Lam Veritab Fri (fried breadfruit). Although on the plate fried breadfruit looks a lot like fried plantain, you’ll notice the texture is very different. A starchy relative of the jackfruit, breadfruit is delicious, and this lady makes some of the best in all Haiti. Best served piled high with a serving of spicy pikliz.

From the western edge of town, you can walk along the waterline, and over the palm-shaded peninsula that leads to the fort. The upper level features areas that are open and level enough to sit and enjoy a picnic and a peaceful moment spent disconnecting from city life. A stone’s throw away is a beach for you to sit back, relax and dip your toes in the bay of Saint of Louis.

You’ll find local tour guides happy to lead you through Fort des Oliviers – for a small fee. Getting a fuller understanding of the reasons why Haiti’s southern coast was often caught in a tug-of-war is one of the best ways to sharpen your appreciation of all the things the island has to offer.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

Aerial view of the waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

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A hidden world

A 40 minute drive out of the western city of Les Cayes, the waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June, but this is also when the road to get there is at its most – lets say adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon river that feeds Saut Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January – Haiti’s driest month-  it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible – the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, full of exotic bird song blending in with the sound of the waterfall.

On the accessible side, there’s a cobblestone ledge to make it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim and is considered better even than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice cold, but on sunny days (practically all!) It’s worth it! A few hours is in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A climb up a side track leads to the top of the waterfall from where you have a wonderful view and access to some natural pools.

Les Cayes is one of the cities the most travellers don’t reach – Jacmel or Saint-Louis-du-Sud are closer to Port-au-Prince. If you manage to make it as far west as Les Cayes, make it a point to visit Saut Mathurine.

Waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine waterfall, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Getting there

Saut Mathurine is off the beaten path for most travellers – quite literally. The road is unpaved and you’ll need a 4×4 to get there, but it’s worth the bumpy ride. You can hire 4×4 vehicles in Les Cayes. If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well. If you enjoy driving off-road though, getting there is an absolute adventure.

Access to the waterfall is via a park entrance – a gap in the wall with a small office to the side. The entrance fee for travellers is 100 Haitian gourdes. Inside the walls, there’s much more to discover than the waterfall itself – you can walk along the riverside and around steps carved into or laid around the otherwise wild jungle. There is a boutique selling local crafts and a restaurant on site.

Turquoise pool at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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