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Gelée Beach

Boat anchored in turquoise water off Gelée Beach, Haiti
Gelée Beach, Haiti
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Gelée Beach

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Situated in the heart of the Caribbean, between Cuba and the Dominican Republic, Haiti has over a thousand miles of coastline with dozens of destination-worthy beaches.

We’re talking white sand and turquoise water swelling up to coconut palms, chalk cliffs or jungle-clad mountains rolling off into the distance. Whether you choose one of the island’s most treasured coves or one of its many undiscovered wonders, the water here is warm all year round.

Gelée Beach

Located near Les Cayes in southern Haiti, Gelée Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Haiti. Highlights including the beachside fritay merchants and the chance to see cows grazing in fields that reach almost to the water’s edge. Compared to other popular beaches in Haiti, the surrounds are flat and open. Pastoral scenery notwithstanding, the water is tropical and the swimming here is lush.

The beach itself winds around the southern coastline for miles, with soft, pillowy sand melting into some of the most crystal clear waters you’ll find anywhere on the island – or in the Caribbean, for that matter.

Grab a bite

Colorful shacks of food vendors dot the treeline. The number of them is a testament to how popular Gelee beach is and how good the seafood is here. If you’ve already tried Haitian cuisine in Port-au-Prince, you’ll be familiar with the fried plantains and meat – typically called fritay, but don’t miss the chance to try the locally-caught seafood.

If you find the queues for the beachside food overwhelming, you’ll find a choice of restaurants and hotels a short drive from the beach.

At night, Gelée transforms into a lively, well-lit destination for dinner by the shore. The broad boulevard fills with music and foot traffic. People flock to the beach for Gelée’s specialty – grilled fish with fried plantains. Avoid a long wait by going with a local who can walk right up to their vendor of choice and order the right way.

Watch our video of the twoubadou band Tet Ansanm Twouba from Gelée Beach.

Getting there

Gelée beach is a twenty minute drive from downtown Les Cayes. As city gives way to surf, the road gives way to a sandy dirt track. Park off Route de Gelee and walk through the main entrance to the beach – the one closest to the bars and music – to be welcomed by the most picturesque view of the beach.

When to go

Every year, on August 15, the residents of Les Cayes celebrate Patron Saint festival of Our Lady of the Assumption. Thousands of people from all parts of Haiti and from the diaspora come to Les Cayes to participate in the festivities. If August 15 falls on a Friday, some extend their stay to the whole weekend.

During the festival, music can be heard from every rooftop, sidewalk, and front door of the city. There are plenty of activities for kids, and the highlight is the kite building and flying contest in Gelée, where adults and children come together. Kite-flying is hugely popular in Haiti, and has an entire season dedicated to it: kite season!

For a vibrant slice of Haitian summer life, August 15 is the perfect time to visit Gelée and Les Cayes.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

Fort des Oliviers, Haiti, seen from off the coast
Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore ruins at Fort des Oliviers

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On a rocky peninsula just a short walk from Saint Louis du Sud, Fort des Oliviers dates back to the start of the eighteenth century.

A glimpse of the past

As you walk past cannons propped on stones, your mind will wander back to the time of double-breasted military uniforms and rifles. Staircases ascend and descend to the upper and interior levels of the fort – or the parts of it that have been preserved despite the elements. Wandering up the stairs, under archways and around the ancient artillery allows you to glimpse the experience of construction workers – both French and Haitian, who – more than three hundred years ago – put each of these stones into place.

Exploring the ruins of Fort des Oliviers, visitors can get a sense for the colonial era in which it was built. Three centuries have suffused the weathered walls of the fort with character. The stone has been softened and polished by the salt air and waves. Fort des Oliviers is as much a product of the coastal landscape as it is of those who built it.

If you are looking to deepen your understanding of Haiti’s colonial history, a visit to Fort des Oliviers is absolutely in order!

Palm trees on the way to Fort des Oliviers, Haiti
Fort des Oliviers
Photo: Franck Fontain

Steeped in history

Built in 1702, Fort des Oliviers was built by French occupiers to defend the Haitian territory against their colonial competitors – namely the British Empire. Unfortunately for the French, the British did indeed take over Fort des Oliviers about fifty years later, and established it as a pit-stop port for British ships to rest and refuel their crews.

The southern coastline of Haiti was hotly contested in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as a foothold from which to defend the country’s riches. Although modern Haiti is known for its pristine beaches, colonial-era Haiti made a name for itself in European cities through the high-quality goods brought back by traders returning from its shores. Fort des Oliviers was built just a few years after the French and Spanish divided up the island of Hispaniola into two separate countries – Dominica on the East and Haiti on the West.

The living heritage of relics like Fort des Oliviers make it impossible to separate the insistent natural beauty of the landscape from the history that has shaped modern Haiti as a living, breathing organism. This sense of identity and purpose is what drives the carnival attitude and lust for life that sets Haiti apart as one of the best places to visit in the Caribbean.

If you’re thirsty for more adventure, you’ll find another old fortress on an islet in the bay visible from Fort des Oliviers. This is Fort Saint-Louis, constructed at the same time as Fort des Oliviers. The islet is also home to an abandoned shipwreck famous among locals.

Fort Saint-Louis is accessible via a short boat ride from the coast.

Getting there

Fort des Oliviers is a short walk from the township of Saint-Louis-du-Sud. While you’re in town, get directions to the highway side market and sample some of the famous street food. If you only try one thing, look for the lady selling Lam Veritab Fri (fried breadfruit). Although on the plate fried breadfruit looks a lot like fried plantain, you’ll notice the texture is very different. A starchy relative of the jackfruit, breadfruit is delicious, and this lady makes some of the best in all Haiti. Best served piled high with a serving of spicy pikliz.

From the western edge of town, you can walk along the waterline, and over the palm-shaded peninsula that leads to the fort. The upper level features areas that are open and level enough to sit and enjoy a picnic and a peaceful moment spent disconnecting from city life. A stone’s throw away is a beach for you to sit back, relax and dip your toes in the bay of Saint of Louis.

You’ll find local tour guides happy to lead you through Fort des Oliviers – for a small fee. Getting a fuller understanding of the reasons why Haiti’s southern coast was often caught in a tug-of-war is one of the best ways to sharpen your appreciation of all the things the island has to offer.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

Aerial view of the waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

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A hidden world

A 40 minute drive out of the western city of Les Cayes, the waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June, but this is also when the road to get there is at its most – lets say adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon river that feeds Saut Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January – Haiti’s driest month-  it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible – the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, full of exotic bird song blending in with the sound of the waterfall.

On the accessible side, there’s a cobblestone ledge to make it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim and is considered better even than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice cold, but on sunny days (practically all!) It’s worth it! A few hours is in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A climb up a side track leads to the top of the waterfall from where you have a wonderful view and access to some natural pools.

Les Cayes is one of the cities the most travellers don’t reach – Jacmel or Saint-Louis-du-Sud are closer to Port-au-Prince. If you manage to make it as far west as Les Cayes, make it a point to visit Saut Mathurine.

Waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine waterfall, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Getting there

Saut Mathurine is off the beaten path for most travellers – quite literally. The road is unpaved and you’ll need a 4×4 to get there, but it’s worth the bumpy ride. You can hire 4×4 vehicles in Les Cayes. If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well. If you enjoy driving off-road though, getting there is an absolute adventure.

Access to the waterfall is via a park entrance – a gap in the wall with a small office to the side. The entrance fee for travellers is 100 Haitian gourdes. Inside the walls, there’s much more to discover than the waterfall itself – you can walk along the riverside and around steps carved into or laid around the otherwise wild jungle. There is a boutique selling local crafts and a restaurant on site.

Turquoise pool at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival

Dancing at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Franck Fontain

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval

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An Afro-Caribbean cousin of Mardi-Gras, Carnaval is much more than a party. It’s a season spirit that sweeps over the nation every year, creating an outlet for creativity, revelry and the uninhibited celebration of all things Haitian: brave colors; bold flavours; incredibly good, cheap, rum; intoxication music and dancing; an undercurrent of mysterious folklore and mischievous gods; the visibility of a colonial past and a fiercely independent spirit.

If you’ve only got a short break to spend in Haiti, the last thing you want to do on arrival is spend more of your precious time journeying cross country or taxiing around the city looking for action. So why not plan ahead and make your long weekend a non-stop party, instead?

Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting here

Flights depart most major US airports for Port-au-Prince daily, with prices starting from $200-$300 US depending on your point of departure. Once in Port-au-Prince, you can get to Jacmel via private taxi, Moto or public transport in minivans known as Tap-taps. The trip takes about 3 hours: luckily, it’s the best quality-road in the country and offers some of the prettiest roadside scenery.

A tap-tap will only set you back about US$10, but it’s not for the faint-hearted: expect it to be cramped and stuffy, and embrace the chance to get out of your comfort zone. For best results, get in early and head for the back row which offers fresh air and good access to the view of passing countryside.

Once you arrive in Jacmel, prepare to be swamped by moto drivers who will enthusiastically vie for the chance to drive you to your accommodation. If you’re travelling light, you can walk: Jacmel is compact and everything’s within walking distance. If you feel like starting your trip with a shot of adrenaline, you can jump on a moto, but not before you read this guide.

Where to stay

If you book in advance, you can find accommodation at a spectrum of hotels, from historic lofty-ceilinged mansions of Victorian coffee barons like Hotel Florita to ocean view Airbnb villas with their own pool overlooking Jacmel bay like the Chic Chateau to family-owned hotels with private beach like Cyvadier Plage and maybe even a couchsurfing couch.

Whatever you choose, your local host will probably share with you their favourite way to enjoy Carnaval weekend. 

Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to party

First up, this is a three-day party. Slow and steady wins the race, so don’t get too swept away by the strange tides you can feel overtaking the city. The joy of Carnaval is in the air, but it’s ok to enjoy the atmosphere from afar while you settle into your room and crack open the first drink of the weekend.

If you make the rookie mistake of partying too hard on Friday night, you’ll be hitting the snooze button while everyone else is hitting the beach. On the Saturday morning of Carnaval weekend, the best thing to do is to pack a bag and head to the beach where it’s time to socialize, surf, and sip coconut water and rum.

As the moon rises over the gorgeous 3km-wide expanse of Jacmel bay, it’s time to choose your party. Head to the Vatican for house-crowd-pulling DJs. Get amongst something live and local at Congo Beach Club or Suave, where they usually feature live concerts with a variety of artists. Kreyol La, Carimi, T-Vice and RAM are more good choices. Stay up as late as you like, but remember that Sunday is the big finale.

This brings us to the final stretch of the weekend: Sunday, and the main event. “Kanaval” proper is a parade the floods the streets with song and rhythm and color. The creativity and intricacy of the masks is constantly astonishing: alongside the primary colors, voluminous dresses and cornucopia-turban-hats you expect, you’ll see a much more modern palette of costumes, body painting and masks that veer into the dark, bizarre and surreal, rivalling the novelty and extravagance of Burning Man.

All this is set to a ceaseless backdrop of Caribbean rhythm and voices lifted in song, often creole. The bands have an impressive level of energy and stamina, and the “cha” will teach you that music can be played louder than you thought was possible. For the next twelve hours, the main streets will be packed with movement as the crowd parties throughout the night and into the early hours of Monday.

Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti
Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval
Franck Fontain

Carnaval stands

It’s recommended to fork out  $10-$30 for a ticket to a stand. You can leave your belongings up there and disappear into the crowd, ride the wave of the parade participants, and then return for a rest when you need to.

Travellers who are in Haiti on a budget might be tempted to forgo a seat in one of the Carnaval stands that looks out over the parade, but their hopes of getting closer to the action and a more authentic (and cheaper) experience will soon be dashed against the rocks of inconvenience and exhaustion. It’s much better to have a spot on a stand and not use it than to need a spot on a stand and not have it.

If you sprinted into the weekend on Friday night with a big hoorah then the parades, rara bands and cha’s on Sunday will more than likely exceed your tolerance for stimulus. But if you start your weekend off right, you’ll be able to keep up with the rum cocktails, the rara and cha.

Carnaval is vibrant mayhem, organized chaos, unfathomably loud, fascinatingly beautiful, and will surprise you year after year. Because, let’s be honest, once you’ve experienced it…you’ll be back.


Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018


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Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

Person swimming beneath a waterfall in Bassin Bleu, Haiti
Bassin Bleu waterfall near Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Jump into the Cobalt Waters of Bassin Bleu

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Guarded by imposing rock formations, this series of four cobalt-blue pools linked by waterfalls is just 12km west of Jacmel.

Jacmel is Haiti’s sixth largest city, and although it was once named the City of Light (after becoming the first city in the Caribbean to get electricity), it’s the secluded jungle basins of nearby Bassin Bleu that make Jacmel one of the most visited cities in Haiti.

Cobalt Blue Water

With four basins of pristine natural beauty to choose from – Cheval, Yes, Palmiste and Clair – you can take your pick, but the star of the show (in our humble opinion) is undoubtedly Bassin Clair.

Pool surrounded by cliffs at Bassin Bleu waterfall, Jacmel
Bassin Bleu, Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Four Bassins

Hiking through the dense, humid greenery of the surrounding jungle to find the falls, you can expect to break a sweat, but as the rush of the waterfalls grows louder, the forest clears, and the marvellous turquoise of Cheval basin comes into focus, you’ll be glad you made the effort.

Cheval is the first basin on the trail, and although striking in colour, the water is quite safe to wade into. Cheval doesn’t make it into many travel guides, but it’s shallow depth makes it suitable for everyone, including children (under supervision of course). If you’re planning on seeing the rest of Bassin Bleu, take the time to pause at Cheval: sit back, relax, and enjoy the impressive view of the southeastern coastline while you soak your feet in the bright-blue water.

For intrepid explorers who want to continue, a short walk will bring you to the 15 ft deep Bassin Yes. Beyond Bassin Yes, you’ll be rewarded with the perfect stop for a drink and bite to eat (and another swim of course), in the form of Bassin Palmiste, an impressive 57 ft deep. A series of uniquely-crafted concrete tables and seating areas, designed to meld into and complement their natural surroundings, provide convenient places to enjoy the view in comfort.

To see firsthand the impressive Bassin Clair, you’ll need extra effort, a rope, and the help of an experienced guide. Not far past Bassin Palmiste you’ll find a narrow staircase set into the natural rock formations, which will lead you up to the top of a rock hunkered into the side of the mountain. The short descent – just 10 feet – down the other side will feel much further, and is best done under the watchful eye of a guide, assisted by the aforementioned rope. Welcome to Bassin Clair.

Woman stands on the bank of a bright blue pool at Bassin Bleu, Haiti
Bassin Bleu, Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Dive in

Beneath the inviting turquoise surface, there’s much more to this pool than meets the eye. At 75 feet deep, Bassin Clair is an incredible location for floating meditation, and offers the deep tranquility and peace that flotation tanks can only dream of. As you drift, suspended, the stone of the mountain beneath your feet gives way, and the unusual mix of minerals in the pool buoys you up, creating the sensation that you are floating through air.

For the thrill-seekers among you, mere floating may not be enough. Join the ranks of experienced (or just adventurous) locals who climb up the rock surface to one of the jumping-off points and perform dives and backflips, taking turns breaking the serene surface of Bassin Clair. Just make sure you save some of that energy – it’s easy to forget you still need to hike back out at the end of the day.

Want to see for yourself why a visit to Bassin Bleu is considered one of the best day trips in Haiti?

Getting to Bassin Bleu

Option One:
Join a tour from either Jacmel or Port-au-Prince. A veteran guide will lead you through the jungle and delivery you safely to your dream destination. With transportation included (from Port-au-Prince and typically from Jacmel as well), this option takes the effort out of the journey, leaving you with more energy to explore Bassin Bleu itself.

Option Two:
It’s possible to get to Bassin Bleu from Jacmel on foot. Head towards the Riviere Gauche and look for the sign that directs visitors ‘this way’. You’ll want to pack plenty of water for your hike through the dense vegetation up the side of the mountain. Following the inclines of the path, you’ll see plenty of interesting landscape and get a commanding view of the south-east coastline, and the reward of the swim at the end will be all the sweeter.

Entrance fees 
Admission is 100 HTG per person and an additional 100 HTG per car in parking fees.

A note on guides:
Getting to Bassin Bleu can be tough but rewarding and we recommend hiring a local guide.

When it comes to finding a guide, don’t worry – they’ll find you! In fact, if you don’t pick a guide and insist that the other hopeful candidates leave you alone, you can end up in the awkward situation of having several guides accompany you, all expecting to be paid at the end. Choose one (or more) guide, and insist that the rest leave you to it.

Make sure you negotiate a price with your guide before you start – 250 to 500 HTG is a reasonable price. Bring the right bills with you.

Remember, never underestimate the power of the water or the risks associated. If you are not joining a tour, inform your hotel or accommodation owner where you are going and be sure to check the conditions before you trek in. Happy travels!


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018


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Kokoye Beach

Umbrellas and palm trees on Kokoye Beach, Haiti
Kokoye Beach, Petit Goave
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Kokoye Beach

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Looking for a weekend destination not far from Port-au-Prince? You’ll find the low-key glamping experience at Kokoye Beach that is an altogether different sort of luxury. Set into the unrivaled beauty of Haiti’s south coast, the pristine cove of Kokoye is just an hour’s boat ride from Petit-Goave.

Leave your troubles and your backpack in the tent provided, enjoy seafood served up by a local host, and spend your days swimming, snorkeling and drinking rum punch in a cove worthy of a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean.

“Glamping” (glamorous camping) is a popular alternative to both low-convenience regular camping and high-priced but underwhelming hotels, but what really sets glamping apart from either is the access it affords to wilderness, and is the uniqueness of the experience.

Kokoye Beach is one of the few beach excursions in Haiti that is set up for tourists, with all-inclusive boat trips departing daily. It’s a way to experience the white sand and lagoon-blue wonders of Haiti in comfort and on a budget. The quality of services in Kokoye won’t disappoint. This is Glamping with a capital G.

Raw nature

Rocky outcrops stretch out on either side of the beach, bookending a pristine inlet. In the middle, an expanse of sparkling water stays tranquil and wave-free 90% of the time. It’s ideal for paddle boarding, snorkeling, kayaking and swimming. The water and white sand are pristine – the beach is maintained by local associations to keep tourists coming back for more.

Palm trees line white sand beaches that stretch into aqua water that is so unbelievably blue you’ll be tagging your Insta stories with #nofilter. The water is waist-deep until 200 meters out, perfect for bobbing the day away with an icy-cold rum punch in hand.

Come sunset, you can wind down lounging around bonfires, listening to local troubadours playing konpa classics on worn drums, and celebrate into the night.

With no electricity nearby, stargazers will be delighted by some of the Caribbean’s starriest skies. On a related note – pack head-torches or flashlights and extra battery packs for any phones and cameras you plan on using. The west of the beach offers access to modern toilets and showers where you can rinse off the sea water at the end of the day.

This is Haiti as it was made to be experienced. A hotel room is a hotel room but when you stay in a tent on the sand, and nap on a hammock strung between two coconut palms, it’s a unique way to feel immersed in the natural beauty this part of the world has to offer. Watching the sun rise over the water with no walls between you, and the sea at your fingertips, can be a life-changing experience.

Beach-side feasts

When you get hungry, you’ll be glad you’re not quite roughing it: a safety net of experienced staff will provide fresh seafood grilled over sizzling embers, and hot coffee in the morning. They’re professional and unobtrusive. Security is provided but never needed.

If sea-to-table and farm-to-fork meals are the new height of luxury, then you’ll be living it up at Kokoye Beach. Haitian coffee, cane sugar and cassava bread with peanut butter and fruit are standard breakfast fare. All ingredients are fresh and as far as possible locally-caught or grown.

If you’ve been initiated into the Haitian traditional of spaghetti for breakfast then you’ll be in for a treat. For lunch and dinner you can order grilled lambi (conch), fish or lobster. The seafood is always catch of the day. Dishes are seasoned with a Haitian mixture of garlic, hot peppers, lime and spices that will have you coming back for more.

Feeling more adventurous?

You can explore sea caves on the north end of the beach, a 15 to 20 minute swim away. Looking for something inland? Hike around the southeast end of the beach to discover the ruins of a swimming pool and a crumbling mansion from a bygone era.

Getting there

Kokoye Beach is located on a remote peninsula south of Petit-Goave, and it is only accessible by boat, or extreme hiking for 2-3 hours. There is no car access, which makes it feel more like an island escape. Visitors can call ahead to reserve tents, sleeping bags, and other comforts with a local host. People like Madam Fanfan (509) 4028 – 31 66 will also be able to help arrange your boat travel.

It’s also possible to arrange for an impromptu water taxi from the pier in Petit Goave. The boat ride time will vary depending on the motor and number of people aboard and visitors can expect to pay more for covered boats. While on the boat ride you’ll see local fisherman in their element, and freediving is a regular sight, as are sailboats sluicing by at slower speeds. The water changes from indigo blue to turquoise to aqua as you skim along the shore toward Kokoye.

Just over halfway there, Bananier Beach – a popular destination in its own right – is usually the first stop. Kokoye Beach is 20 minutes further down the coast.

Tips for making the most of your trip

One way to prepare for the excursion to Kokoye Beach (and make your hosts happy) is by bringing lots of Haitian gourdes in small bills. While 50 gourdes may not go far in Port-au-Prince, the provinces will appreciate the change. On such a remote peninsula, making change is a regular problem so you’ll be doing a service to the local economy by bringing in plenty of 10, 25, 50, and 100 gourde notes. In a pinch, US dollars are accepted in lieu of gourdes.

Whether you’re into a salty, rough-and-ready DIY adventure or plan to take full advantage of the excellent food and facilities services provided by dedicated staff, an excursion to remote Kokoye beach is a great way to relax and reconnect.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published July 2018


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