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Port-au-Prince

8 Cheap and Free Things to Do in Haiti

people sitting on chairs reading next to a library bus
BiblioTapTap, Port-au-Prince
Photo: FOKAL

Caribbean on a Budget: 8 Cheap and Free Things to Do in Haiti

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Situated in the heart of the Caribbean between Jamaica and the Dominican Republic, Haiti has over a thousand miles of coastline with dozens of destination-worthy beaches. While some of them charge entry fees to cover maintenance costs, most are free to wander onto for a day of sun-bathing and swimming.

Beyond gorgeous beaches, Haiti offers a wealth of wildlife, nature, arts and culture for backpackers on a budget. Here’s our guide to free things to do in Haiti, all accessible to fresh-off-the-plane first-time visitors!

People relaxing, Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
People relaxing, Champ de Mars
Photo: Franck Fontain

01. Hang out at Champ-de-Mars

The daily life of downtown Port-au-Prince happens in the streets, and Champ-de-Mars is the centre of that life – the beating heart of Haiti’s capital city. Enjoy a morning stroll, get some budget-friendly street food, browse artisan stalls, kick back with an ice-cold Prestige and drink in the activity all around you.

Afternoons here buzz with conversation and music playing from sound systems around the park. On weekdays, white-collar Haitians funnel into Champ de Mars on their lunch breaks from local banks, hotels, government offices and the university.

For free, you can see several statues of Haiti’s founding fathers including Alexander Pétion, Henri Christophe, Jean-Jacques Dessalines, and Toussaint Louverture. The highlight is Marron Inconnu, the iconic statue of the unknown slave blowing a conch-shell trumpet.

Sculpted by Haitian sculptor Albert Mangonès, the statue represents a runaway slave on one knee, arching back to blow into the conch-shell trumpet. In his free hand, he holds a machete; around his ankle is a broken chain. In Haitian history, the sound of blowing into a conch was used to announce a slave’s – or a group of slaves’ – freedom. The statue represents Haiti’s independence from the French, and the world’s first successful black revolution.

Colorful paper mâché animal masks worn by participants in the carnival at Jacmel, Haiti
Paper mâché at Carnaval in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

02. Get into the Carnival spirit

If you happen to be in Haiti during Carnival season (the months of January or February until March, depending on when Mardi-Gras lands), pre-carnival Sunday activities are a great way to end your weekend.

Whether you are staying in downtown Port-au-Prince, Cap-HaïtienJérémie, or Jacmel you can check out free-roaming rara bands, folks in costume, and festive music throughout the city. Think New-Orleans-during-Mardi-Gras-ambiance!

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise hotel and restaurant in Jacmel, Haiti
Alliance Francaise in Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

03. Join a free event at Alliance Française in Jacmel or Cap-Haïtien

The city of Jacmel is chock-full of things to do and see, and the centre of it all is Alliance Française in the heart of the city. A cultural center with a branch in Cap-Haïtien as well, Alliance Française hosts musical events, as well as various talks.

Check out the upcoming events near you to find free events and courses where you can dance the night away, brush up on your French, or even try your hand at some Kreyòl!

04. See a play at Festival Quatre Chemins

During the month of November (with small overlaps in October and December), Port-au-Prince is swept up by the Festival Quatre Chemins. A month-long series of conferences and plays, Festival Quatre Chemins is where actors and playwrights come together from around Haiti and across the world to inject fresh life into Haiti’s performing arts scene. Most of the events are free!

jazz concert on big stage in front of large sitting crowd
PAPJazz festival in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Josué Azor

05. Listen to jazz for free at PAPJazz

Between the months of January and February, Haiti’s capital city is completely overtaken by music in the form of the Port-au-Prince International Jazz festival! More commonly known as PAPJazz, the festival features jazz acts from several countries around the world, as well as Haitian artists blooming in the field. Bars and restaurants throughout the capital turn into venues, and usually either expect you to buy a meal or drinks, or charge a small entry fee. Travellers on a budget should know about the shows held at Quisqueya University — entry there is free!

Waterfall plunges into a stony pool at Kaskad Boukan
Waterfall, Kaskad Boukan
Photo: Verdy Verna

06. Go hiking in Fermathe (don’t miss Cascade Boukan)

Perhaps the best nature hike from Port-au-Prince is to Cascade Boukan, a waterfall in the hills of Fermathe. Get ready to work your lower body muscles as you climb up a summit and then descend to Boukan Valley via a narrow and sometimes steep pass, with the sound of the falls rushing louder as you go.

It’s a decent hike to get there and while not especially difficult, we strongly recommend hiking with someone who knows the way. If you need to hire a guide to take your group, a reasonable price is around 250-500 HTG – less than USD $6.

07. Visit the gallery at Alliance Française, in Jacmel

When not hosting a concert or conference, Alliance Française keeps its doors open to show off some of the most beautiful art in Jacmel. Alliance Française’s popular restaurant is on the top floor, and there is no entrance fee to the gallery which leads up to the restaurant – visitors are welcome to come and browse. The paintings in the gallery change from time to time, so regular visitors will be rewarded by new works.

people sitting on chairs reading next to a library bus
BiblioTapTap, Port-au-Prince
Photo: FOKAL

08. Relax with a book at BiblioTapTap

Backpacking light around the Caribbean with no room for books? Pa gen pwòblèm! – no problem! An initiative launched by the National Book Directorate, BiblioTapTap is a free mobile library that drives through Port-au-Prince and stops at public squares.

If you are staying in Port-au-Prince, you can catch it at Champ-de-Mars, Place Saint-Pierre, or in Delmas 4. It’s as easy as saying hello, having a bit of conversation, and enjoying a book of your choosing at the BiblioTapTap table in the shade.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published June 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Peer into the Studio of Haitian Artist Maxan Jean Louis

Maxan Jean Louis in his studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Peer into the Studio of Haitian Artist Maxan Jean Louis

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Take a look inside Maxan’s studio

Originally on the path to become a bricklayer, Maxan Jean-Louis picked up a paintbrush under the advice of his cousin and altered his life forever. Born in the west-Haitian province of Jérémie in 1966, Maxan travelled to Port-au-Prince as a youth to find his way as an artist. Since then, his work has found its way into European museums, international private collections and the homes of Maxan’s friends, who range from teachers to Ambassadors.

A true artist and a simple, bohemian spirit, Maxan treats his friends from all walks of life with the same respect and kind sense of humour. Every week, he welcomes visitors into his home studio, east of Route de Freres at a dirt road cutoff one mile past the Police Commissariat.

Visitors enter the gate into an empty two car garage and walk through to an open air art gallery. Exterior walls of a never-finished two-story house are covered in decades of his art. Political works from the 1990s are hung on unfinished cement walls around the home’s exterior. The political scenes are juxtaposed with the more figurative, Vodou-inspired style that has made him celebrated internationally as well as here in his native Haiti.

Climbing the stairs that wind around to the back of the house, you enter the creative domain of Maxan Jean Louis. A wide studio is covered in floor-to-ceiling canvases in various stages of work. To the left you’ll see another permanent fixture in an unfinished room without a roof.

Leaned against the cinderblock walls are chest-high mounds of empty Prestige beer bottles, with the odd Rhum BarbanCourt tossed in. It’s an impressive sight and has taken years to build up. Beaming with pride, Maxan takes the mountain of bottles in with a fatherly gesture, and they’re transformed into a deliberate installation.

Near the house is a waterfall, and if you’re in the mood for a short hike, Maxan will gladly show off this nearby natural wonder. He might even take you swimming in the basin below.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Inspired by visions

While Maxan is considered an artist of the Saint Soleil school, he’ll tell you that he paints in two different styles. The first is characterised by fantastical, colourful and elongated forms that rise up off a vibrant background. It’s a body of work rooted in a dream world, and inspired by his own visions.

These Vodou-influenced canvases range from miniatures to murals, but all emit movement and dance. These are the works of a natural talent, born from experiments and visionary moments. A predominant theme is release from the heavy burn of everyday life. Visually, it represents the same escape so many people seek, and find, during religious ceremonies, dances or musical festivals.

Maxan’s second style is a distinct departure in mood, form and colour. The pallet is paler and the theme is overtly political. According to the book “Artistes Haitian” published by APAM, Maxan was heavily influenced by the political coup of 1991 which ousted Jean Bertrand Aristid and brought forth a wave of violence against civilians.

Maxan turned to surrealism and began to document atrocities and political assassinations in vivid colour. They were events that he lived through, and he turned to art to express his reactions. But Maxan is above all, a jovial spirit. Grand gestures of generosity flow freely from his rough hands. He offers new friends masterful paintings like they’re chocolate bars and exchanges with artists whose work he admires.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

“There’s not enough room”

Maxan has built up an impressive art collection over the past 30 years. The four main rooms of his house are covered in floor-to-ceiling tableaus from local Haitians and international artists alike. Works of art are stacked three deep on couches and floors: there’s not enough room to hang them all. And this isn’t even his own work.

There’s an advantage to being a former mason, still close-knit with the building community. Maxan will regularly have a 10 to 20 foot high canvas stretched and work on three of them simultaneously. He adores wild, untraditional canvas sizes. The more “dezod” or uncouth the dimensions the better. The grey exterior walls of his multi story home are often covered in his orange, green, and vibrant red paintings.

With such a prodigious pace, Maxan has to design his murals to be mobile. To create more space for new giant murals, Maxan has sold them to expats, embassies and private dealers. Maxan recalls that in 2017 one collector visited his studio and took home 27 paintings.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Where to find Maxan’s art

In Haiti, you’ll find Maxan featured in the most prominent galleries and homes. Beyond the Caribbean, Maxan turns up in France, Romania, and the Netherlands. For fine art enthusiasts, it may be difficult to reconcile this reputation with the slapdash studio and charming, crooked smile of Maxan. He is most often seen zipping around Port-au-Prince on the back of a motorcycle with a baseball cap on his head, baggy T-shirt, and cargo jeans.

Many weeks he heads this way to the Lycee Francais to teach art classes to the children of diplomats and local Haitians who are enrolled in the French system. French support for Haitian cultural promotion and Maxan in particular, is longstanding.

His first major exhibit was at the French Embassy in 2005 and he visits France every summer with the Haitian group PROM-ART HAITI to engage in cultural exchanges and display recent art works at a group show. In summer 2018 he visited Romania and Morocco.

Interested in finding out more? Call +509 3637 7042 to arrange a visit to Maxan’s studio.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published May 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Meet the Haitian Artists from the Village of Noailles

Man walks with wheelbarrow past metal statue in Village Noailles, Haiti
Village Noailles
Photo: Franck Fontain

Meet the Metal-makers of the Artistic Village of Noailles

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In the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquet, east of Port-au-Prince, the streets echo with the clang of hammer and tong and the precise tap-tap of chisels. Follow the sound as it meanders through the paved streets, and you’ll find yourself in the artistic village of Noailles – an open plaza connecting the clattering workshops and vibrant storefronts of the city’s thriving metalwork art scene.

Mornings in the village start with the sound of artists and blacksmiths opening up their shops. The work from the day or the night before is brought back into the light, and the serious business of bargain-hunting can begin. While shoppers compete to snap up the most interesting pieces before anyone else sees them, the artists themselves often work collaboratively – you’ll see them walking in and out of each other’s workshops to put the finishing touches on collaborative artworks.

Magic leaking through the seams

The entire village of Noailles is infused with the craft of metalwork, but in some parts of town it’s less obvious. Not every artist in the village has been able to splash out on a whitewashed adobe storefront, but the industry is everywhere: for every easy-on-the-eyes gift shop that fronts onto the open plaza, there are ten humbler workshops hidden behind fences of corrugated iron or gaily painted wood.

Here in the village of Noailles, art springs to life every single morning, in every single corner. It is the origin of most metalwork you’ll see around Port-au-Prince, building on a rich tradition of creativity that was born right here.

The making of a movement

Known as Kwadèbouke in Haitian creole, the city of Croix-des-Bouquet has an interesting history. Originally a coastal city, it was moved inland after the devastating 1770 earthquake. Thanks to that act of foresight, the descendants of the 1770 survivors luckily avoided the worst of the 2010 earthquake.

The practice of metalwork in Croix-des-Bouquets started back in the 1940s. Georges Liautaud pioneered the movement by opening a blacksmith shop where he undertook basic metalwork such as repairing tools and, on occasion, creating custom crosses for the tombs of the cemetery.

A few years later Liautaud crossed paths with DeWitt Peters, an American art lover, who was the first to encourage Liautaud to explore metalwork as a form of art and to promote it in Haiti. Soon, Liautaud had more commissions for his installations and sculptures than he had time to fulfil, and a guild industry was born.

At first, Liautaud worked mostly with recycled materials – specifically, metal drums. This opened a world of creativity and various techniques that were previously unexplored, and by the 1970s, an artistic vein of metalwork had spread across the country. Its heart, however, has stayed in the village of Noailles and Croix-des-Bouquets remains the crux of metalwork in Haiti, attracting artists from around the country who want to work in this atmosphere and show off their skills to travelling art lovers.

What you’ll find here

Here you’ll find original sculptures hammered out or precision-welded from repurposed pieces of metal that began their lives as car-parts, cutlery, or wrought-iron finials. Reborn, you’ll find them as candle-holders, plates, mirror frames, large focal wall-pieces and less luggage-friendly items like practical furniture. It’s astonishing to see such a breadth of ideas and such a high level of skill produced in what seems to many strangers a rather humble birthplace.

Tucked away amongst the tumbledown streets of Croix-des-Bouquet, the artistic village of Noailles is proud to be the birthplace of metalwork as we now know it in Haiti. By buying an artwork from Noailles, you can support the local craftsmen who hone their creative trades here, and keep a memory of Haiti that will last forever and start plenty of good

Top tips

It’s best to bring gourdes with some small change, though many merchants accept American dollars. It’s also wise to plan ahead by bringing a way to take your new purchases home with you – although you’ll find plenty of pocket-size trinkets, some of the works in the village are quite impressive in size!

Remember that these artists are also businesspersons. Be prepared to haggle here just like you would for fresh produce from the farmers’ markets or the artworks sold on Champ de Mars.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019


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Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre

the gardens at Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre, Haiti
Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre
Photo: Franck Fontain

Visit Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre

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What was Caribbean plantation life like? See for yourself!

With its well-preserved cane pressing machinery, distilleries and historical buildings, spread over multiple acres, a visit here offers tactile insight into the days when it was fully-functioning, in the era when Haiti was in the last stages of its struggle for independence. Up to the early 19th century, cane sugar and its products played a huge role in Haiti’s internal economy and international trade. The museum pays tribute to the role Haiti played in the global balance of power at the time.

The museum’s formal buildings are divided into themed rooms. One of the most popular is the Taíno-Amerindian room. It contains original artifacts from the pre-Colombus era, when Hispaniola was populated by Taíno and Arawak Amerindians. The household items and religious relics provide a treasure of insight into life before Christopher Columbus’ arrival in 1492.

Taking a guided tour through the park is a great way to understand more of what you’ll see. In the grounds you’ll stumble across a genuine steam engine parked on the grass. Follow the stone paths and you’ll find water mills, aqueducts, a rum distillery, and many other vestiges of plantation life. Everything has been preserved in its original form by the Auguste family. History buffs are in for a treat.

Events

As well as serving as Haiti’s premiere colonial era museum, the former plantation also hosts a variety of forward-focused cultural events. Jazz festivals have been taking place since 2007 and every December the park holds open-air concerts with Haitian headliners like Ram and Tabou Combo.

The annual October artisan market, Artisanat en Fete, is Haiti’s biggest craft fair. Every year 200-300 Haitian artisans are invited to Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre to sell their wares. Thousands of tourists and residents descend on the Parc to do early Christmas shopping over a long weekend.

At the Artisanat en Fete you’ll find the full gamut of artisan products, from food, wine, honey and hot sauces to handbags, fashion, home décor, hammered metal and living room sets carved out of driftwood. It’s a three day extravaganza of food, shopping, and networking that cannot be missed!

The park has been updated to include some post-1800 comforts like bathrooms, restaurant stalls, and pavilions, making it a pleasant way to spend a day. Stone pathways zig-zag through the grass and when the tropical trees are in bloom the falling red flowers lay a flame-colored carpet across the grass.

Getting there

To find Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre, drive down Boulevard du 15 Octobre until you reach the American Embassy. The park’s main entrance is located across the street behind decorative metal fences arched in bougainvillea flowers.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published April 2019


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Port-au-Prince City Guide

Sunset over Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Sunset over Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

City Guide: Port-au-Prince

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Just a two-hour flight from Miami, Port-au-Prince will probably be your first stop in Haiti, and the best way to find the pulse of a country is to take a few steps in its capital city.

About 1 million people live in the metropolitan area, with another 1.5 million living on the surrounding hills and coastline. Although some areas are troubled (as with any populous city), Port-au-Prince has several upmarket districts where visitors can safely stay and explore on their own.

Group of Haitians on stage below the Petion-Ville library in Port-au-Prince
View from the Petion-Ville library
Photo: Anton Lau

The basics

Vacationers looking for a comfortable Caribbean holiday on a budget will find Port-au-Prince a great place to easily book hotels, rent cars, dine at a variety of restaurants, and head out to party on weekends. Those who are seeking more authentic accommodation in Haiti (such as Airbnb or staying with a host) need to be prepared for a few things – unpredictable power outages being the most important.

Once you’ve got that down, though, Port-au-Prince is a rich and colorful delight that keeps travellers coming back for more. There are so many pockets and places to explore, but we’ve got the essentials covered!

Colorful canvases on display along Rue Pinchinat, Petion-Ville
Paintings on display at Rue Pinchinat in Petion Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

Art & Culture

Jacmel may be called the cultural capital of Haiti, but the streets of Port-au-Prince are overflowing with art and artist-led initiatives are thriving.

For an introduction to Haitian arts and crafts, we recommend walking along Place Saint-Pierre, especially the block surrounding Institution Saint-Joseph. Here, artisans arrive early to set up temporary displays of paintings, sculptures, woodwork and trinkets for you to browse and haggle over.

Champ de Mars is another key destination for Haitian handcrafts. The artisans here specialise in bold jewelry and leather goods such as sandals and bags. The stall owners are business people as well as artisans, so expect to haggle, but given the relative cost of living here it’s still easy to find a price that supports the artist and offers visitors a bargain.

If you want to visit an art gallery, we recommend Galerie Monnin in Laboule, as well as Carré Zémès in Thomassin. Both are open to the public and feature eclectic collections of work from Haitian artists working in paint, sculpture and other media.

Two people hiking a trail above Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Hiking above Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Urban adventure

Looking for a top-notch outdoors experience without leaving Port-au-Prince?

Fort Jacques is an easy, accessible option if you are looking to get some time in nature, or want to picnic with a view. If you drive up in a car, expect to pay locals a small fee for park maintenance, or for parking safety. For those who are looking to get some hiking under their belt, the Boukan waterfall is a great place to start. Make sure you head there with a guide – preferably someone from the area of Fermathe.

Other places to get a breath of fresh air are Boutillier, Obléon and Furcy – a bit farther out of Pétion-Ville, but definitely worth the drive. Remember to pack a jacket in case it gets chilly – up in the hills the temperature can drop surprisingly quickly!

Hang out with locals

In the mood for a morning, midday, or afternoon stroll? Port-au-Prince is full of public squares where you can soak up the tropical sun and Haiti’s vibrant island atmosphere.

If you are in Pétion-Ville, you have the choice between Place Boyer and Place Saint-Pierre. Downtown? Champ de Mars is the place to go! This is where most Haitians in the capital spend time between classes if they’re students, between shifts if they’re street vendors, or meeting friends en route.

At most squares you’ll find merchants selling street food and drinks. For an authentic Haitian treat – and relief from the Caribbean heat – look for a vendor selling snow-cones known as Fresko.

Group eating dinner at Yanvalou in Pacot, Haiti
Yanvalou in Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

Where to eat

Hungry? With a diversity of cooking traditions and ingredients sourced from around the island, Port-au-Prince is Haiti’s culinary capital! Head over to La Coquille in Pétion-Ville for their Haitian food buffet, where you will be able to try the different types of rice and meats available that day, as well as a complimentary dessert.

If you are eager to try Haitian seafood, but haven’t yet scheduled your beach getaway, fear not! Vivano, also known as Coin des Artistes, is the place to go. Here, make sure you try the grilled fish, as well as the stewed fish, with a side of either crispy fried plantains or fried potatoes. If you happen to be in Haiti outside of lobster mating season (which runs officially from April 1st to June 30th), you will definitely want to try this Caribbean delicacy!

Karibe Hotel offers delicious Haitian cuisine in a more calm, relaxed, tropical setting. The hotel’s greenery transports you to an atmosphere outside of the city, letting you soak up those Caribbean island vibes without leaving Port-au-Prince.

Where to drink

Fancy a cocktail?

If you’re in Pétion-Ville, Fubar is a great place to start for all types of cocktails. Asu is a more high-end option, with delicious mojitos and a view to match. Downtown, Yanvalou has the best rum sours, and you will definitely want to stop at Gingerbread for their house-made cocktail mixes.

The beer standard in Haiti is an ice-cold (or byen frape, in Kreyòl) Prestige!

Where to party

Port-au-Prince is a nightlife powerhouse. While a variety of DJ parties happen every week, you can count on at least two events come rain or shine. The first is Live Groove on Thursdays at Yanvalou, in Pacot, and the second is Flashback Friday at Fubar, in Pétion-Ville.

If you are not able to make it to Yanvalou’s Live Groove or Fubar’s Flashback Friday, you can almost always catch a resident or rising DJ at a fan-favorite bar or restaurant – Asu, for example, often hosts young talent.

If you are more into live music, head over to Vivano or to Presse Café – both in Pétion-Ville – for the best in authentic troubadour or konpa music.

Haitian boy jumping into water at Bassin Général, Croix-des-Bouquets
People swimming at Bassin Général, Croix-des-Bouquets
Photo: Franck Fontain

Who should go?

If you only plan to visit one place in the Caribbean, Port-au-Prince offers intrepid travellers excellent value.

It’s the hub of activity in Haiti, and offers visitors a taste of everything this island has to offer: music, art and festivals for travellers looking to immerse themselves in a new culture; beaches and parties for a fun summer break; and peaceful, quiet corners for the solo-traveler. Port-au-Prince is also a great place to explore Haiti’s unique place in history as the first Caribbean nation to successfully throw off colonial rule.

A city finds its rhythm in the lives of its people – how will you dance along to daily life in Port-au-Prince during your stay?


Written by Kelly Paulemon.


Published March 2019


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