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Dondon grottoes

view from inside a cave with vines in entrance
View of Dondon from inside a grotto
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dondon grottoes

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Located in the mountains of northern Haiti, Dondon has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno peoples lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

vodou symbol painted on a cave floor
Vodou vèvè inside a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

The grottoes

Dondon’s spectacular cave system has ten separate grottoes. Some are easy to access and have a given name: Ladies’ Vault, Marc-Antoine grotto, Smoke Vault, Cadelia Vault, Saint Martin Vault, Minguet Vault and Michel grotto, all named because of their individual history.

Some of these caves were Taíno cult locations during the pre-colombian period, where the Taínos would come to pray to their gods. One of the gods prayed to in times of drought is still visible on the walls of the grotto, and in post-colonial times is venerated by vodouwizan as an important figure within vodou. The other grottoes remain unnamed, their histories steeped in mystery.

Guided tours

Many Dondon area locals – young and old – are happy to jump into the role of guide for the grottoes. Some have learned by heart formulas in French and English, which can make for charming – if confusing – conversation.

Experienced and impromptu guides will be more than happy to help you discover the best spots, hidden petroglyphs and the history infusing these grottoes – some of this history only survives as stories handed down from generation to generation, so you won’t find it anywhere else.

haitian man sitting on donkey drinking in river
A man on a donkey by Riviere Bouyaja in Dondon
Photo: Anton Lau

Festivals in Dondon

Every town in Haiti has its own patron saint festival. In Dondon, pilgrims come from far and wide to celebrate Saint Martin of Tours. Some come here to party, others come as tourists to observe, but most are here to honor the Vodou divinities, the lwa believed to live here. The patron saint festival of Saint Martin of Tours happens in Dondon on November 9 – 11, but party preparations start on November 7. For five days, crowds filter into Dondon to savor kleren, eat delicious griot, and dance to troubadour music from morning ‘til night.

There is also the Dondon Festival, held from July 18 to 23. This festival is about Dondon itself rather than lwa, and draws vacationers who come to take advantage of the great swimming spots in nearby rivers, go on excursions and participate in the conferences that take place for the occasion.

What else is nearby?

Dondon is close to the UNESCO World Heritage Sans-Souci Palace and Citadelle Laferrière, which locals call the eighth wonder of the world. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any visit to Haiti, and the journey there is well-worth the effort.

Fort Moïse, on top of the Saint Martin Vault, is also close by. Other attractions include the Kota waterfall and the historical Vincent Ogé residence. The on-site coffee co-op at the residence is a great place to taste the very particular flavor of Haitian coffee.

cave entrance with vines and trees
Overgrown entrance to a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to the Dondon grottoes

Dondon is located in the north of Haiti, about a two hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien. The journey to Dondon will take you over roads that are winding and can be pretty rough in places. On paper (or GPS), the route through the town of Saint-Michel might look good, but that road serves up more adventure than most travellers are looking for, and we don’t recommended it. The best way to get to Dondon we’ve found is this one:

From Port-au-Prince, drive out of the capital towards Cap-Haïtien via Route Nationale #1. The road to Cap-Haïtien makes up the longest chunk of the drive, but its recent completion makes it a comfortable trip, not to mention a scenic one, with many towns to stop in along the way, each with their own character. Once in Cap-Haïtien, continue towards the town of Milot. Make a left after you pass Rivière du Nord, and in another hour or so you’ll arrive at Dondon.

There’s no formal fee to see the caves but you’ll need to hire a (formal or informal) guide. Remember to bring food and drinks with you for the trip as there’s no guarantee you’ll find anything on site, although Lakou Lakay is a great place to stop for lunch if you’re travelling via Milot.


Written by Jean Fils and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2020


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Cap-Haïtien City Guide

church cathedral in cap-haitien, haiti
The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

City Guide: Cap-Haïtien

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The Paris of the Antilles

Cap-Haïtien is Haiti’s second largest city, popular with travellers because of its proximity to world-class beaches and UNESCO heritage sites. 

A key city during the Caribbean colonial period, Cap‑Français (as it was then named) earned the nicknamed the Paris of the Antilles for its sophisticated architecture and artistic culture. It was the capital city of the French colony of Saint Domingue from 1711 until the Haitian Revolution, when it became the capital of the Kingdom of Northern Haiti under King Henri Christophe. Christophe renamed the city from Cap‑Français to Cap-Henri. When Christophe died in 1820, the whole island of Hispaniola was briefly unified, and it was in the early phases of this (re)unification that Cap-Haïtien was given the name it has today. Mostly, though, you’ll hear this beautiful city called simply “Le Cap”.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings
Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

What to see and do in Cap-Haïtien

The Cathedral
The early 20th century Notre Dame Cathedral (also known as the Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, Cap-Haïtien Cathedral and (French) Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l’Assomption.

Héros de Vertières
Héros de Vertières (Heroes Monument of Vertières) is an open-air sculpture park dedicated to the heroes of the 1803 Battle of Vertieres.

The Battle of Vertières was the last major battle of the Second War of Haitian Independence, and the final battle of the Haitian Revolution led by Jean Jacques Dessalines. It was fought on November 18, just south of what is now Cap-Haïtien.

An inspiring site that celebrates a remarkable moment in history, a visit to the Heroes de Vertieres is especially empowering for travelers from the Haitian diaspora. The monument is on the western outskirts of the city, within a five-minute drive of both Hôtel Impérial and one of our favorite places to eat in Cap-Haïtien, Lakay.

The Bottle Gate(s) (French: “Barrière Bouteille” / “Barrières Bouteilles”)
These iconic bottle-shaped structures mark the historic entrance to the city.

The Iron Market (French: Marche au Fer)
Named after the iconic Port-au-Prince Iron Market, this lively market is housed inside a Victorian-era cast iron pavilion. First built in 1890 under Haitian engineer Alexandre Bobo, Cap-Haïtien’s Iron Market has attracted tourists since the 1960s thanks to its impressive period architecture and the huge range of handicrafts sold here – especially colorful ritual objects associated with vodou practice. Today, the Iron Market is a chaotic sprawl of craftspeople and food vendors hawking their produce.

Dance to live music
Let your hair down like a local with these Cap-Haïtien musice scene stalwarts: Septentrional and Tropicana d’Haiti. Catch them at a venue called Versailles (named after the French royal palace).

yellow restaurant building in cap-haitien
Lakay, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to eat

Lakay: Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent (and huge!) traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Boukanye: our favorite place to drink coffee in Cap-Haïtien, this pirate-themed hangout is a great bar by night but a cozy café by day.

Cap Deli: serving up some of the freshest food in the city, Cap Deli is the place to go in Cap-Haïtien for American-style burgers and pizza.

Lolo: a new Italian-Haitian restaurant, Lolo serves exquisite fresh pasta and fine wine.

Must-try local specialities: Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Woman throwing a towel down to relax on the beach on Amiga Island, Ile-a-rat
Amiga Island, (Ile-a-Rat) close to Cap Haitien
Photo: Anton Lau

Best beaches

The best beaches nearby are Cormier, Labadee and Île-à-Rat Island (Amiga Island).

The beach at Cormier is one of the most under-appreciated on the island – and only a twenty minute drive from downtown Cap-Haïtien.

Labadee Beach is one of the crowning jewels of Haiti, with fine sands and crystal-clear blue water that attracts cruise ships from around the world.

Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island) is a tiny island off the beaches west of Cap-Haïtien. This little paradise is a microcosm of what makes Haiti one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean, with fine white sand beaches, shady palm trees, warm turquoise waters, incredible fresh seafood – and fewer crowds. The swimming is superb, and snorkelers can find half-buried colonial artillery and anchors.

For USD $40 a boat taxi from Labadee will take you to Île-à-Rat, and for an extra USD $15 they’ll cook you up a fresh lunch of lobster, octopus, crab or fish, all caught locally. Make sure you take some ice-cold bottles of rum and Prestige with you for the trip!

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti
Boat taxis going to Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island)
Photo: Verdy Verna

Where to sleep

All-inclusive resorts:
Cormier Beach Resort

Ocean view hotels:
Top hotels include Hôtel ImpérialHotel SatamaHabitation Jouissant, Habitation des Lauriers and Mont Joli

Hidden Gem:
Kay Lolo Plage

Only accessible by boat, Kay Lolo Plage is a boutique B&B secluded in a private cove and surrounded by tropical forest. The separate bungalows and villa are in great condition and offer travellers a private beach with gorgeous views, birdsong and very exclusive vibes. There’s no wifi or running water here, but you’ll find kayaks, paddleboards and a breakfast cooked just for you.

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière and mountain range, Haiti
Citadelle Laferrière, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Awesome day-trips

South of Cap-Haïtien, Citadelle Laferriere is a hilltop fortress built by revolutionary leader Henri Christophe. 

Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferriere. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

The city of Dondon is located about two hours south of Cap-Haïtien and has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno people lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

Getting there

American Airlines fly direct from Miami to Cap-Haitian, with fares starting at US $127 and a flight time of less than two hours.

From Port-au-Prince, Haiti’s capital city, Sunrise Airways will take you to CAP in 45 minutes for less than US $100, but it’s more fun, and you’ll see more of Haiti, if you jump on a cross-country bus or rent a car. On wheels, the journey from PAP to CAP will take four hours or more, depending on your route. Will you drive inland via Lake Peligre and Bassin Zim, or along the Caribbean coastline via Montrouis and Gonaïves?

Coming from the Dominican Republic? Caribe Tours, the most popular bus company in Dominican Republic, runs daily from Santiago to Cap-Haïtien. The journey takes roughly five hours: two and a half hours from Santiago to Dajabon, on the Dominican border, then another hour from Haitian border town Ouathamije to Cap-Haïtien. Return tickets cost US $25 per person, plus an extra US $25 border-crossing fee.

For more information, see our guides to getting to Haiti and transport within Haiti.


Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published December 2019


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Sans-Souci Palace

Aerial view of Sans-Souci Palace, Haiti, with tree-covered mountains in the background
Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Sans-Souci Palace

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Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferrière. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

Sans-Souci Palace, which translates to ‘the Worry-Free Palace’, dates back to 1811, just after Haiti had become the world’s first independent black republic. Despite the weight of time – and a significant earthquake during the nineteenth century – the ruins of the Sans-Souci Palace maintain an imposing air and stand as an inspiring testament to the opulent post-revolutionary era.

Visitors can spend an hour or two exploring the palace and grounds before heading onward to the Citadelle.

History

The Sans-Souci Palace was built to serve as a residence for the revolutionary leader Henri Christophe, who would become king in 1811, a year into the palace’s construction. The palace was one of many lavish constructions Christophe ordered at that time, including the Citadelle Laferrière.

Christophe used his reign as an opportunity to build up Haiti’s standing in the eyes of the international community – particularly its former colonizer, France. Christophe was well known for the luxurious parties and feasts he hosted at the palace, and the palace’s design – from the lush gardens to the intricate waterworks installation still visible in the ruins – reflects this luxury.

The name “Sans-Souci” itself came from another Haitian revolutionary, Jean-Baptiste Sans Souci, who Christophe had asked to form a united front with, but who refused out of mistrust. A decade or so before the palace was built, Christophe invited Sans Souci to visit him. When Sans Souci accepted, he was promptly assaulted by Christophe’s guards – and legend has it that the palace bearing his name was built where he was killed.

Visiting the north of Haiti is a great way to brush up on Haiti’s history; here, visitors can see many of the country’s important landmarks, historic sites, and monuments dedicated to the memories and visions of pivotal figures in Haiti’s history.

Aerial view of the ruins of Sans-Souci Palace, Haiti
Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Where to eat

Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent, and huge, traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Where to sleep

Most travellers visiting Sans Souci and the Citadelle stay in Cap-Haïtien as accommodation options in Milot are fairly basic.

Getting there

Sans-Souci is located in Haiti’s North Department, close to the town of Milot.

Culturally curious travellers are well-advised to carve out a chunk of time for exploring the north of Haiti. While the capital city of Port-au-Prince and the entire South of the country are full of gorgeous destinations and exciting things to do, the North of Haiti is where a lot of the country’s history has its roots. Cap-Haïtien is the perfect base, and with the recent opening of the airport to international flights, visitors no longer need to arrive in Port-au-Prince first. Around a half-hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien is Milot, the jumping-off point for hikes to the UNESCO site.

For a small, negotiable, fee, a local guide will lead individuals or groups from nearby Milot up to the palace and guide you to the areas open to the public, which can otherwise be difficult to distinguish. A fair fee for a guide is US$20 to US$30, plus a fee for hiring a horse.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019


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