TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

Festivals

Explore Pestel

sunrise over the mountains surrounding a small haitian fishing village
Sunrise over Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Explore Pestel

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About 40 miles east of the town of Jérémie in Haiti’s Grand’Anse department, Pestel is a small harbour town full of culture, offering cinematic sunrises, sunsets and laidback charm.

From its rustic seaside markets to unique, unexpected places to explore like nearby caves and islands, Pestel is a place not to be missed if you’re touring Haiti’s southeast.

The far south of Haiti (west of Jacmel and Les Cayes) isn’t as visited by travellers as the rest of Haiti, but is just as worthy as a destination. Here are the top things to see in Pestel.

Sun rising over the seaside village of Pestel, Haiti
Sun rising over Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Wake up with sea breezes

Life in Pestel follows the rhythm of market days – Wednesdays and Saturdays. Early in the morning, you can watch sailboats coast into the city’s port, loaded up with goods from Miragoâne. As the port workers help boats dock and unload, the sea breeze wakes up the town, calling down farmers from the mountains, who supply the town with fresh fruits and vegetables carried by donkeys in saddle-like baskets woven from hay. The entire town of Pestel -house maids, matriarchs, small children sent to run errands – slowly drips into the port, ebbing and flowing between fishmongers and farmers, preparing for the weekend or the new week ahead.

If you’re visiting on market day, you’ll want to make sure that you have enough change on hand, and a reusable bag to take with you so that you can carry your market bounty home.

If you want to stay in Pestel overnight so you can wake up early and watch this gorgeous harbour town come to life, we’ve got you covered. Well and truly off the beaten tourist path, Pestel isn’t exactly crowded with accommodation options, but Madame Jacques’ guesthouse offers a comfortable place to sleep with loads of rustic charm.

Madame Jacques runs a small, simple guesthouse, not a lofty hotel, but her hospitality, loving-kindness (and cooking!) is famous around here. A Haitian mother down to the bone, Madame Jacques prides herself on taking good care of her guests, making sure that you leave her abode with an even better experience of Pestel than you expected.

Fête de la Mer – the Festival of the Sea

Pestel is also the home of Haiti’s one and only Fête de la Mer—the Festival of the Sea. For one long weekend each April, usually from Thursday to Sunday, the city of Pestel hosts various festivities, including a food fair featuring the bounty of the sea, tours to nearby grottoes and sailboat races, the whole thing interspersed with performances by popular Haitian artists.

Fête de la Mer is a great way to explore Haiti and Haitian culture, and to get outside of your city-hopping comfort zone. The Fête de la Mer usually coincides with Easter, and festival organizers will announce the confirmed dates well ahead of time.

interior of cave with massive dripstones
Interior of the Bellony grotto caves
Photo: Franck Fontain

Caves and islands

Have the caves mentioned earlier caught your attention? If they have, you already know that they are a feature of the Fête de la Mer, but if you’re planning to visit Pestel outside the month of April, the caves are still open to visitors. Wander through the cool, secluded, mystical caverns as guides lead you through the history of the caves. Feeling a bit apprehensive about going into the grottoes on your own? Tour agency Haïti Roots runs excursions to the caves, including the most well-known – the Bellony grotto.

Pestel is also a great launchpad for a tour of nearby Cayemites, a cluster of small islands offering their own unique experience. About six miles from Pestel, the Cayemites islands offer an intimate, secluded adventure. Think fine, sandy beaches melting seamlessly into crystal-clear water, with that Caribbean sunshine you’re craving as well as shade offered by the fringe of forest that leans toward the water’s edge.

secluded haitian island with forest and beach
The secluded Anse Blanche beach on Petite Cayemite island
Photo: Anton Lau

Flag of the freedom fighters

Over the last decade or so, Pestel has been the home of a slow-burning political awakening, starting around the time when former death squad leader and political man Guy Philippe was arrested in the city. The arrest brought with it winds of change, independence, and lack of tolerance for wayward governance. In that same spirit, the black and red flag of Haiti’s liberation in 1804 floats freely on a flag pole in the harbor, calmly signaling to one and to all that there is no freedom without unity in the fight for what’s right for all.

Need to Know

Pestel is a harbour town with a vibrant market, incredible sunrises, sunsets and laidback charm.

Madame Jacques’ guesthouse is the place to stay overnight to wake up with the market (Wednesday and Saturday mornings).

Cave and island tours – Haïti Roots runs tours to mystical caves including the Bellony grotto. Charter a boat trip to the Cayemites for an unparalleled exclusive beach experience.

Fête de la Mer – the Festival of the Sea is celebrated in Pestel every April.

haitian fisherman with small wooden cannoe filled with fish
Fisherman in Pestel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2020


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Festikap Kite Festival

three haitian boys flying a kite
Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Festikap Kite Festival

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Picture this: After a week of adventuring across Haiti, from hikes to road-trips to the beach and hidden waterfalls, it’s time to celebrate the new year. You decide to go to Jacmel and watch the fireworks by the beach. The next day, you throw a picnic blanket in the car, drive up to La Vallée, and admire a sky full of kites while you kick back with food and drinks. You can even try your hand at flying a kite yourself, with the help of other participants or the festival organisers. It will take a little less than 300 gourdes (about US $3) to buy a nice kite and participate.

Because you can buy a kite on arrival, the bar for getting involved is pretty low, so Festikap makes a great spontaneous adventure! The festival happens every January 2nd, making it the perfect activity for anyone planning to spend New Year’s Eve in Jacmel (or – even Port-au-Prince).

Festikap vibes are comparable to Champ-de-Mars in February during carnival. Kites in a stunning display of colors and creativity fill the sky for hours on end: it’s a flying art exhibition. With children running around, elders watching and younger folks flying their kites, the atmosphere in La Vallée is like one big camping trip.

Behind the magic

The famous kite-flying festival of La Vallée de Jacmel — or “La Vallée” as locals call it — will be celebrating its 10th anniversary in the coming year. Festikap is a festival put together by the Organization of Young Valley University Students for Progress (Organisation Universitaire de Jeune Valléens pour Le Progrès) with the goal of preserving a tradition deeply rooted in Haitian culture but threatened by forgetfulness and abandonment. This yearly event serves as an entry point to the beautiful community of La Vallée de Jacmel. The celebrations conveniently happen on January 2nd which is a holiday in Haiti (Ancestor’s day).

Kite flying is a vital part of Haitian culture. Starting in the month of April, on the roofs of houses all across the country, children, their parents, and sometimes even their grandparents can be seen tugging on thin, nearly invisible pieces of thread tied up to makeshift kites. Most of them are made of plastic; the kind used to sell papita or roasted peanuts in — some clear, some blue, some pink. Others are more elaborate, made of brown paper with red and green accents, tails, and flourishes. All together, they dot the bright blue skies of early summer in colorful spiraling swarms.

In preparation for Festikap, organizers put together workshops to create a certain number of kites to be exhibited on that day. This festival is not just recreational, though – the preparation process encourages creativity and community engagement from different crowds. The festival hopes to revive interest in the endangered tradition of making and flying kites, and the efforts that go into planning Festikap can be considered as a kind of movement meant to transfer a skill and salvage a tenuous cultural heritage.

haitian boy in blue jeans with kite
Boy with kite at Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

La Vallée is located an hour’s drive northwest of Jacmel and about three hours’ drive southwest of Port-au-Prince. Although the name La Vallée suggests a low valley hidden in shadows, the town actually stands a half mile (around 800 meters) above sea level, and offers a panoramic view of the south of Haiti. A trip up to La Vallée unlocks the perfect experience for anyone hungry for a little bit more than simply spending a weekend at the beach.

Festikap is a great way to experience Haiti differently and genuinely. If colors, music, and community are your thing, it’s a must-visit event to add to your itinerary!


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published October 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

8 Cheap and Free Things to Do in Haiti

people sitting on chairs reading next to a library bus
BiblioTapTap, Port-au-Prince
Photo: FOKAL

Caribbean on a Budget: 8 Cheap and Free Things to Do in Haiti

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Situated in the heart of the Caribbean between Jamaica and the Dominican Republic, Haiti has over a thousand miles of coastline with dozens of destination-worthy beaches. While some of them charge entry fees to cover maintenance costs, most are free to wander onto for a day of sun-bathing and swimming.

Beyond gorgeous beaches, Haiti offers a wealth of wildlife, nature, arts and culture for backpackers on a budget. Here’s our guide to free things to do in Haiti, all accessible to fresh-off-the-plane first-time visitors!

People relaxing, Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
People relaxing, Champ de Mars
Photo: Franck Fontain

01. Hang out at Champ-de-Mars

The daily life of downtown Port-au-Prince happens in the streets, and Champ-de-Mars is the centre of that life – the beating heart of Haiti’s capital city. Enjoy a morning stroll, get some budget-friendly street food, browse artisan stalls, kick back with an ice-cold Prestige and drink in the activity all around you.

Afternoons here buzz with conversation and music playing from sound systems around the park. On weekdays, white-collar Haitians funnel into Champ de Mars on their lunch breaks from local banks, hotels, government offices and the university.

For free, you can see several statues of Haiti’s founding fathers including Alexander Pétion, Henri Christophe, Jean-Jacques Dessalines, and Toussaint Louverture. The highlight is Marron Inconnu, the iconic statue of the unknown slave blowing a conch-shell trumpet.

Sculpted by Haitian sculptor Albert Mangonès, the statue represents a runaway slave on one knee, arching back to blow into the conch-shell trumpet. In his free hand, he holds a machete; around his ankle is a broken chain. In Haitian history, the sound of blowing into a conch was used to announce a slave’s – or a group of slaves’ – freedom. The statue represents Haiti’s independence from the French, and the world’s first successful black revolution.

Colorful paper mâché animal masks worn by participants in the carnival at Jacmel, Haiti
Paper mâché at Carnaval in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

02. Get into the Carnival spirit

If you happen to be in Haiti during Carnival season (the months of January or February until March, depending on when Mardi-Gras lands), pre-carnival Sunday activities are a great way to end your weekend.

Whether you are staying in downtown Port-au-Prince, Cap-HaïtienJérémie, or Jacmel you can check out free-roaming rara bands, folks in costume, and festive music throughout the city. Think New-Orleans-during-Mardi-Gras-ambiance!

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise hotel and restaurant in Jacmel, Haiti
Alliance Francaise in Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

03. Join a free event at Alliance Française in Jacmel or Cap-Haïtien

The city of Jacmel is chock-full of things to do and see, and the centre of it all is Alliance Française in the heart of the city. A cultural center with a branch in Cap-Haïtien as well, Alliance Française hosts musical events, as well as various talks.

Check out the upcoming events near you to find free events and courses where you can dance the night away, brush up on your French, or even try your hand at some Kreyòl!

04. See a play at Festival Quatre Chemins

During the month of November (with small overlaps in October and December), Port-au-Prince is swept up by the Festival Quatre Chemins. A month-long series of conferences and plays, Festival Quatre Chemins is where actors and playwrights come together from around Haiti and across the world to inject fresh life into Haiti’s performing arts scene. Most of the events are free!

jazz concert on big stage in front of large sitting crowd
PAPJazz festival in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Josué Azor

05. Listen to jazz for free at PAPJazz

Between the months of January and February, Haiti’s capital city is completely overtaken by music in the form of the Port-au-Prince International Jazz festival! More commonly known as PAPJazz, the festival features jazz acts from several countries around the world, as well as Haitian artists blooming in the field. Bars and restaurants throughout the capital turn into venues, and usually either expect you to buy a meal or drinks, or charge a small entry fee. Travellers on a budget should know about the shows held at Quisqueya University — entry there is free!

Waterfall plunges into a stony pool at Kaskad Boukan
Waterfall, Kaskad Boukan
Photo: Verdy Verna

06. Go hiking in Fermathe (don’t miss Cascade Boukan)

Perhaps the best nature hike from Port-au-Prince is to Cascade Boukan, a waterfall in the hills of Fermathe. Get ready to work your lower body muscles as you climb up a summit and then descend to Boukan Valley via a narrow and sometimes steep pass, with the sound of the falls rushing louder as you go.

It’s a decent hike to get there and while not especially difficult, we strongly recommend hiking with someone who knows the way. If you need to hire a guide to take your group, a reasonable price is around 250-500 HTG – less than USD $6.

07. Visit the gallery at Alliance Française, in Jacmel

When not hosting a concert or conference, Alliance Française keeps its doors open to show off some of the most beautiful art in Jacmel. Alliance Française’s popular restaurant is on the top floor, and there is no entrance fee to the gallery which leads up to the restaurant – visitors are welcome to come and browse. The paintings in the gallery change from time to time, so regular visitors will be rewarded by new works.

people sitting on chairs reading next to a library bus
BiblioTapTap, Port-au-Prince
Photo: FOKAL

08. Relax with a book at BiblioTapTap

Backpacking light around the Caribbean with no room for books? Pa gen pwòblèm! – no problem! An initiative launched by the National Book Directorate, BiblioTapTap is a free mobile library that drives through Port-au-Prince and stops at public squares.

If you are staying in Port-au-Prince, you can catch it at Champ-de-Mars, Place Saint-Pierre, or in Delmas 4. It’s as easy as saying hello, having a bit of conversation, and enjoying a book of your choosing at the BiblioTapTap table in the shade.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published June 2019


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Uncover the Haitian Craft of Paper Mâché

Colorful paper mâché animal masks worn by participants in the carnival at Jacmel, Haiti
Paper mâché at Carnaval in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Uncover the Haitian Craft of Paper Mâché

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It is two o’clock in the afternoon, in the chief town of Haiti’s southeastern department – Jacmel. On a small square at the end of the Rue Sainte Anne, a woman with locks down to her shoulders holds a paper mache bull’s head in her left hand and a brush in her right. This is Charlotte, one of the most popular artists of the city.

The paper mâché technique, she explains, is very old. It comes from Asia. ‘With the carnival tradition inherited from Europeans, we have found the perfect pretext to improve this ancestral art, to make it a representation of the Haitian culture already rich in color.’

A few steps from where we are stands a fresco of glass of all colors. We can read the words “Fanm se poto mitan”. The artist to whom we owe this work? Charlotte. In her studio, two plaques of honor and merit salute her work. The walls and shelves are adorned with mâché roosters, oxen, cows, and objects of everyday life: a jewelry box next to a trivet, in front of a painting.

‘Haitian culture,’ Charlotte continues, ‘that’s what we artists put into it. It is not static and it is this dynamism from which it draws all its charm.’

Paper mâché artist Charlotte shows off an intricate cow mask in Jacmel, Haiti
Paper mâché artist Charlotte in Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

“Work begins a whole year before the carnival”

The art of paper mâché is to mold shapes into paper hardened beforehand with a heated starch preparation. This technique, taught at the National School of Arts, is known throughout Haiti, but it has found its greatest success here in Jacmel.

The carnival held every year in the city (around Easter) attests to the success of this practice.Transmitted from generation to generation, the technique remains the same even though artists are free to experiment with size, shape and color. Masks, decoration of all kinds, aquatic fauna, political personalities, fictional characters – everything goes. In 1993, to illustrate a debate on deforestation, Soliosso Simonis disguised himself by transforming into a mango tree made of paper mâché. Around here, you could find a life-size zebra, painted bright red, right next to a representation of Fidel Castro.

Rivaling Haiti’s national carnival, the Jacmel Carnaval draws bigger crowds every year, partly because of the paper mâché art on display. Work begins a whole year before the carnival, designing the masks that will be on show on the front of the stands, on parade floats, and not least of all in the parade itself.

Artists in Jacmel, Haiti, working on paper mâché costumes
Artists in Jacmel working on paper mâché
Photo: Franck Fontain

For many people in Jacmel, paper mâché is a way to make a living – a real economic engine for the city and its surroundings. Children are immersed in the practice from a young age, and some go on to take up apprenticeships in local artisanal workshops. Downtown, several houses have been converted into shops, galleries, and / or open workshops where visitors can see the craft up close.

Paper mâché is more than just an artistic practice. Like painting, dance, and sculpture, it has become a vehicle for the expression of Haitian culture.


Written by Melissa Beralus.

Published March 2019


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When is the best time to visit Haiti?

Aerial view of buildings on the water at Ouanga Bay, Carries, Haiti
Sea view, Ouanga Bay, Carries, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

When is the best time to visit Haiti?

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Surprisingly, there’s quite a difference between its two seasons – wet and dry. There are several pros and cons to both, and cost is just the beginning.

November to March – Dry Season

Haiti’s dry season officially runs from November to March, with as few as three rainy days each month. Like the rest of the Caribbean, you can expect it to be humid, but thanks to trade winds from the North the humidity is tempered in coastal areas.

In dry season expect warm, blue-skies days and lovely afternoon breezes, especially along the coast and in the mountains.

The advantages of visit Haiti in dry season are many. Visitors from the northern hemisphere get to ditch snow or just boring-old-cold for sun and sand. With lower humidity and little rain, the dry season also provides the best conditions for surfing, snorkeling, diving and trekking. This is when the seas are at their calmest (and most photogenic).

It’s certainly the best time to hike to the La Selle range, and the spectacular natural features of Bassin BleuBassin Zim and Dondon grottoes – unless you’re craving the added adventure of tackling slippery slopes on your way back down.

The downside of visiting Haiti during the dry season is that everyone else wants to, making it a little bit tricky, and sometimes expensive to secure a flight to get here. Particularly during December and January, tourism peaks and Haitians living abroad tend to come back to Haiti for end-of-year celebrations with their friends and family.

This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t book your Haitian getaway during December-March: it just means you’ll need to book further ahead to find flights and the perfect place to stay for a good deal.

If you’re struggling to find a flight in your price range for the time you want to travel, try breaking up your trip and booking the legs separately: for example, if you’re coming from the US, find a flight to Florida and then fly from Miami into Port-au-Prince.

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière, Milot, Haiti
Citadelle Laferrière, Milot
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

Dry season key dates and events

November: the month of Gede – If you want to immerse yourself in Haitian culture, November is a great time to visit, being the month when Haitians celebrate Gede – a family of lwa in Haitian Vodou. Events throughout the country abound, so if you can move around, it’s a great time to be in Haiti – and if not, Port-au-Prince is just as lively with it’s own activities! It’s also a great month for cultural events, as most of them tend to be scheduled around that time.

Mid November: Le Festival du Rhum shines the spotlight on Haiti’s most famous export with tastings, workshops and cooking demonstrations. The rum festival is a great time to sample varieties from around the country in one place, surrounded by a festive atmosphere.

December 31 – January 1: New Years Eve / Independence Day celebrations.

January: the PAPJazz festival.

Late February – March: Carnival season. Jacmel’s world-famous carnival is staged the week before the carnival in Port-au-Prince, so it’s possible to see one if you can’t see the other, or even make a marathon of it.

Aerial photo of rice fields by the coast in Corail, Haiti
Rice fields in Corail
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

April to October – wet season

In the summer months from June to August, the weather is warm and the beaches are beautiful. With fewer tourists, you’ll find destinations quieter and locals will have more time for you. It’s an amazing time to visit and get to know the island.

For travellers who want to explore the island’s landscapes, culture, history and art at their own pace, and don’t mind getting caught in the rain on the way to their pina coladas, the less predictable sultry summer months will repay you with the cheapest flights and accommodation.

People hiking across a hill in Grandou, Haiti
Hiking in Grandou
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Wet season key dates and events

May: generally the wettest month of the year, monsoon season is a great time for indoor exploration. If you’re interested in creative writing or storytelling, don’t miss the annual Krik-Krak storytellers festival.

June: Sunshine and blue skies – Without a doubt, the sunniest period of the year in Haiti is between the months of June and August. This is the perfect time to go around the country for some sightseeing – especially if you’re a fan of nature’s wonders!

July: Summer celebrations – Want to see how Haiti parties? The months of July, December, and January are your best bets. This is when promoters plan the biggest events of the year, all over the country – and there is something for everyone. If you love a good beach or festival-like party, Haiti is the place to be!

August-October: Hurricane season. Lighter rains compared to April-June, but the weather is less predictable. Like unpredictable weather in any city (or light snowfall in London!) hurricanes can knock out sections of Haiti’s transport and infrastructure. If you’re looking for festive color and celebration, best to book your trip for another time of year.

If you’re an experienced adventure traveller and don’t mind having to change plans at the last minute, the hurricane season is when you’ll get the cheapest flights and accommodation in Haiti.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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