TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

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Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

building with futuristic designed roof in public park
Katherine Dunham Cultural Center, Port-au-Prince
Photo: FOKAL

Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

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Located in the crescent coast of the bay of Port-au-Prince, the neighborhood of Martissant was once home to boulevards and villas where Haitian high society lived and thrived. These days, Martissant is high-density and not exactly a tourist destination. But there are a few things in Martissant that are worth the trip, and the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center is one of them.

Nested away in Martissant Park, the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center is a haven of peace, calm and community. It is named after African-American dancer and choreographer Katherine Dunham, who moved to Haiti in the 1930s to learn about the African heritage of Caribbean dance forms. Now known as the ‘matriarch of black dance’, Dunham is credited with bringing African and Caribbean rhythm and technique into the professional dance repertoire.  

Katherine Dunham’s private home and studio

During her stay, Dunham befriended a few Haitian officials, and became an important cultural ambassador for Haiti. In the centre of Martissant, Dunham purchased a leafy seven-acre property, which she used for herself and for her US-based dance company. A hotel was built there, and for a number of years Dunham received and entertained the elite of Haiti and other lucky invitees.

The lavishness inside the walls, and luxury of being able to focus on art, was an extremely sharp contrast to the poverty-afflicted neighborhood of Martissant. Now, it is giving something back.

Now open to the public

After Dunham passed away in 2006, her property was transformed into a cultural center, and now features an iconic library, whose five buildings – built to emulate movements of dance – were designed by Mexican architects Raúl Galvan Yañez and Winifred Jean Galvan.

This is why from a distance, it is possible to see and identify the geometric, free-flowing silhouette of the center. On the right hand side of the actual center is the relic of an imposing peristil which belonged to Katherine, and which she used during her time in Haiti as a space for Vodou ceremonies inspired by Dunham’s research into African and Caribbean culture.

Most days of the year, the cultural center is open to the public. It houses a very well composed library for young children, teenagers and adults. It is possible to check books out of the library, with a minimal subscription fee. An attractive, bright, intuitively built interior attracts you to a table, or to a shelf. Everything is exceptionally well designed to encourage community and communication.

Events

Because Martissant Park is under the sponsorship of Fondasyon Konesans Ak Libète (the Foundation for Knowledge and Liberty), the Centre also hosts many roundtable discussions, forums, and panels. There are rotating activities all week long for children, as well – ranging from storytelling workshops to readings conducted by popular Haitian authors. The Center also hosts book signings and conferences by young up and coming authors.

There is always plenty of activity at the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center. It is an exceptional venue made possible by an exceptional woman, and pays homage to her life as passionate activist who lived immersed in Haitian culture.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2020


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Where to go dancing in Port-au-Prince

crowd of people dancing with hands in the air during a concert
PAPJAZZ, Quisqueya University
Photo: PAPJAZZ / Roberto Stephenson

Where to go dancing in Port-au-Prince

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Dance to your own beat

With the sun sinking into the horizon over Bay du Port-au-Prince, the capital’s plethora of excellent bars are prime territory for drinking – and dancing – like a local.

But where to start? That’s where we come in! For week-long opportunities of nights out dancing in Port-au-Prince, here are our top recommendations:

haitian dj performining in front of ecstatic crowd
Yanvalou, Pacot, Haiti
Photo: Yanvalou

01. Yanvalou, Pacot

Yanvalou is a staple in Haitian nightlife. Once a week, it turns into party city with some of the capital’s best and freshest DJs, often featured alongside a performing band like Akoustik or Pawòl Tanbou, both regulars on the stage here. There is a cover charge of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars), and the party starts at 9 PM. When: Thursdays!

haitian girl with long braids smiling in dancing crowd
Fubar, Pétion-Ville, Haiti
Photo: Fubar

02. Fubar, Pétion-Ville

If you are in Pétion-Ville, this club is the place to be. Fubar is where you’ll find the city’s best flashback night, spinning everything from dancehall to old-school hip-hop. It’s always a fun time, especially with a great group of people! P.S.: there’s no cover charge! When: Fridays!

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

03. Carnival!

Carnival isn’t a venue, it’s an event. Or a month? Or maybe the real spirit of Haiti, descending underground for 11 months every year. Carnival is the best time to be in Haiti if you want the country to show you a good time!

While it may seem daunting to join in as an outsider, it is anything but – from pre-carnival Sunday daytime activities, to day-long activities on Champ-de-Mars during carnival itself, everything about Carnival in Haiti is an invitation to get moving. We recommend going in a good group – and staying smart – as it’s a super-crowded event. If you’re in Port-au-Prince during Carnival, you won’t have to wait until sundown to get your groove one – there’s dancing all day long!

Note: Separate carnivals happen across the country on a staggered schedule, so if you can’t be in PAP for the capital city’s carnival, you might be able to make it to Jacmel Carnival instead. When: January to February!

people relaxing on a hotel rooftop terrace
Asu Rooftop Lounge, Juvénat, Haiti
Photo: Asu Rooftop Lounge

04. Asu Rooftop Lounge, Juvénat

The fashion crowd heads to Asu – a notch more sleek and sophisticated than other venues on this list. You’ll find this rooftop lounge above Karibe Hotel in Juvénat. Asu is the home of house music in Haiti, and you’ll hear everything from popular hits to underground cuts. Reservations are strongly recommended. When: Fridays and Saturdays!

haitian musician with guitar singing on stage with microphone
Presse Café, Pétion-Ville, Haiti
Photo: PAPJAZZ

05. Presse Café, Pétion-Ville

For those seeking a more traditional, authentic musical experience of Haiti during their stay here, we can’t recommend Presse Café strongly enough. With a cozy, intimate setting, Presse Café is the destination for all things compas/kompa – a distinctive Haitian musical thread that crystallised in the 1950s after the band Conjunto International popularised it in mainstream music. Haitian compas legend Dadou Pasquet holds a residency at Presse Café on Friday nights. When: Fridays!

06. Goose Bar, in Tabarre

Island vibes call the island tribe! If you are looking for a low-key place to relax, unwind, and have a good, wholesome time – head over to Goose Bar in Tabarre! They host a weekly reggae event with a DJ and host that is sure to take the edge off a tough day. When: Wednesdays!

07. Anti-Stress, Lalue

Marked only by a small sign invisible to the untrained eye, Anti-Stress is one of those places that always has something going on, all week long – great music, ice-cold beers, and even a pool, if you’re trying to refresh, too! When you need a guaranteed good time no matter when you drop by, go straight to Anti-Stress! When: All week long!


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published March 2020


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Your Ultimate Guide to Haitian Nightlife

haitian nightclub with guests sitting at tables
The Backyard Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

Where to Party: Your Guide to Haitian Nightlife

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You’ve walked through the busy streets of Port-au-Prince, treated your tastebuds to Creole street food, poked around the artist collectives and squeezed in a stroll through Champ-des-Mars. Now it’s time to party the night away, Haitian style.

Here are the best places to get a taste of Haitian nightlife, according to a local.

haitian girl with long braids smiling in dancing crowd
Fubar, Pétion-Ville, Haiti
Photo: Fubar

01. Fubar, Pétion-Ville

Ask anyone who’s a seasoned party-goer in Pétion-Ville, and “Fubar” comes up every single time. With events nearly every day of the week, it’s one of the most popular spots in the city. We recommend: their Flashback Friday parties. Normally 500 Haitian Gourdes, entry is free before 10pm.

02. Brasserie Quartier Latin, Pétion-Ville

Ask anyone who’s a seasoned party-goer in Pétion-Ville, and “Fubar” comes up every single time. With events nearly every day of the week, it’s one of the most popular spots in the city. We recommend: their Flashback Friday parties. Normally 500 Haitian Gourdes, entry is free before 10pm.

03. Le Coin des Artistes – Vivano, Pétion-Ville

Port-au-Prince is famous for fresh seafood, and Le Coin des Artistes is one restaurant that always lives up to the reputation! Find all of your seafood favorites, with a side of live music, nearly every day of the week, right in the heart of Pétion-Vile. We recommend: their Jazz Thursdays.

Group eating dinner at Yanvalou in Pacot, Haiti
Yanvalou in Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

04. Yanvalou, Pacot

If you’re looking for a night out dancing, go no further than Yanvalou. Located in downtown Port-au-Prince, this restaurant by day and nightclub by night is where many devout party-goers go to hit the dancefloor. It attracts a mix of locals and travellers. We recommend: their Live Groove Thursdays.

a restored old colonial house with many decorative details
Gingerbread Restaurant, Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

05. Gingerbread, Pacot

Another lovely spot in Pacot, Gingerbread is famed for its delectable cuisine. If you are looking for an evening out in a stunning setting (without breaking the bank) this is the place to go! We recommend: their cocktails, and if you’re in the mood for a dollop of dessert, their Panna Cotta Creole.

haitian restaurant with many guests dining
Magdoos, Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

06. Magdoos, Pétion-Ville

A favorite among the younger crowd in Port-au-Prince, Magdoos is known for its great middle eastern food, hookahs, and great music. A good tip is to make sure that you make it there early in the night so that you’re not pressed for space! We recommend: their $5 Wednesdays.

haitian nightclub with guests sitting at tables
The Backyard Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

07. The Backyard, Pétion-Ville

For an atmospheric bar experience in Port-au-Prince, head to The Backyard. With the down-to-earth decor, they offer an extensive beer and liquor selection, great music, and often host popular soccer games. During hot Haitian summer nights, it’s thronged with locals and visitors and full of good vibes. We recommend: all weekend long!

interior of dining area at restaurant with bar
Harry’s, Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

08. Harry’s, Pétion-Ville

A staple of nightlife in Pétion-Ville, Harry’s is one of those inescapable destinations. It is open pretty late, making it a popular for partygoers in need of late-night grub. If you happen to be in the area, make sure to stop for some food between bar hops! We recommend: their kibby – a creole dish that’s kind of like a cross between meatballs and arancini.

people seated in dining area inside a restaurant
Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Boukanye

09. Boukanye, Cap-Haitien

If you happen to be in Cap-Haïtien, Boukanye is one of the places you must visit; the bar’s decor is heavily reminiscent of pirate ships, making for a memorable experience! Located on the Boulevard, it’s an excellent place to find live music and cocktails. We recommend: looking out for their weekend events!

people seated at tables dining outside a restaurant
People dining outside Lakay Restaurant, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Lakay, Cap-Haïtien

If you are looking for great food in Cap-Haïtien, go no further than Lakay; it’s one of the best places to get local grub. They also host weekend events, but they’re announced rather than regular – look them up during the week to see what’s coming up. We recommend: their lanbi with rice and beans!

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise building in Jacmel, Haiti
Alliance Française, Jacmel
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

11. Alliance Française, Jacmel

For great food in Jacmel, Alliance Française is the place to go. While they do host cultural events and vernissages, they are more famous for their food, which is some of the most sought-after in the city. We recommend: their vegetable penne!

entrance to le belvedere nightclub in jacmel
Le Belvedere nightclub in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

12. Le Belvedère, Jacmel

ILooking for nightlife in Jacmel? The party is happening at Le Belvédère. Drinks there are affordable, and the crowd is enthusiastic. We recommend: Friday and Saturday nights!


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2020


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Experience Rara Easter

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

Experience Rara Easter

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Welcome to Haiti, and its one of a kind rara Easter!

Since Haiti is predominantly Catholic, you will see a lot of activity in churches in the lead up to Easter, some even organizing and leading marches through their parishes: some in Pétion-Ville, some in Lalue, some in Thomassin. For the devout, it’s a period of the year which never goes by without celebration.

If you pay close attention, though, you will notice there is another form of celebration going on – and it’s not a Catholic one.

haitian women in carnival decorations with trumpets
Rara band playing on vaksins
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

History

In colonial times, from the moment they were unloaded from trade ships onto the island, slaves had to fight for everything: their survival, their freedom, and their culture. Because the first two were a harder, more substantial battle for them to win, they had to fight it every day until independence was won.

The cultures and languages they brought with them across the seas were viciously oppressed, and holding onto these was hard for people already fighting for survival and freedom. Slave masters were intent on ridding slaves of any thought, idea, or behavior that might make them think they were human.

When the Spanish colonised the island, they brought the Catholic calendar with them, and it remained standard on the island. The slave class found a way to keep their spiritual beliefs and practices alive by realigning their own traditions to match the timing of Catholic ones.

All throughout lent, slaves convened, but not to decide what they would give up. They convened in order to take something back – the musical traditions from their homelands, which they couldn’t normally risk under the watchful eye of the slave masters. During lent, musicians gathered and made music together, adapting customary instruments, traditions and narratives to their new life. Late at night, meeting in secluded locations, they found ways to celebrate their culture in all of its bright, bold loudness. Vodou was often a part of this celebration. Joining music and vodou together, a renewed and newly unified culture and religion arose.

This was the birth of rara, and the tradition is still alive and well in modern-day Haiti, and takes to the streets more boldly than ever before.

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band marching in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

How to experience rara Easter

If you are staying in Haiti around Easter, rara band performances usually begin around Ash Wednesday and end with a bang on Easter Sunday. The artist lineup is never publicly announced, but you can catch them playing, dancing, laughing, and running through the streets of Port-au-PrinceCap-HaïtienJacmelJérémie and more.

The sound of a rara band is unmistakable. A driven rhythm of drums, layered underneath a melody played on a couple of vaksin, a trumpet conventionally made from hollowed bamboo, but more often made of metal. You will hear the fast-paced scratching of the graj, against the loud, steady voices of people singing, stomping and dancing down the street.

As Martin Mull once put it, writing about music is like dancing about architecture. The spirit of rara is impossible to capture in words, so you’ll just have to come and see for yourself.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2019


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle