culture

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival

August 28, 2018 by Editor

Dancing at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Franck Fontain

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval

A weekend at Jacmel’s annual Carnaval is the ultimate way to saturate your senses in the essence of Haitian culture. Here’s how to join the party.

An Afro-Caribbean cousin of Mardi-Gras, Carnaval is much more than a party. It’s a season spirit that sweeps over the nation every year, creating an outlet for creativity, revelry and the uninhibited celebration of all things Haitian: brave colors; bold flavours; incredibly good, cheap, rum; intoxication music and dancing; an undercurrent of mysterious folklore and mischievous gods; the visibility of a colonial past and a fiercely independent spirit.

If you’ve only got a short break to spend in Haiti, the last thing you want to do on arrival is spend more of your precious time journeying cross country or taxiing around the city looking for action. So why not plan ahead and make your long weekend a non-stop party, instead?

Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting here

Flights depart most major US airports for Port-au-Prince daily, with prices starting from $200-$300 US depending on your point of departure. Once in Port-au-Prince, you can get to Jacmel via private taxi, Moto or public transport in minivans known as Tap-taps. The trip takes about 3 hours: luckily, it’s the best quality-road in the country and offers some of the prettiest roadside scenery.

A tap-tap will only set you back about US$10, but it’s not for the faint-hearted: expect it to be cramped and stuffy, and embrace the chance to get out of your comfort zone. For best results, get in early and head for the back row which offers fresh air and good access to the view of passing countryside.

Once you arrive in Jacmel, prepare to be swamped by moto drivers who will enthusiastically vie for the chance to drive you to your accommodation. If you’re travelling light, you can walk: Jacmel is compact and everything’s within walking distance. If you feel like starting your trip with a shot of adrenaline, you can jump on a moto, but not before you read this guide.

Where to stay

If you book in advance, you can find accommodation at a spectrum of hotels, from historic lofty-ceilinged mansions of Victorian coffee barons like Hotel Florita to ocean view Airbnb villas with their own pool overlooking Jacmel bay like the Chic Chateau to family-owned hotels with private beach like Cyvadier Plage and maybe even a couchsurfing couch.

Whatever you choose, your local host will probably share with you their favourite way to enjoy Carnaval weekend.

Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Body paint at Jacmel Carnaval
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to party

First up, this is a three-day party. Slow and steady wins the race, so don’t get too swept away by the strange tides you can feel overtaking the city. The joy of Carnaval is in the air, but it’s ok to enjoy the atmosphere from afar while you settle into your room and crack open the first drink of the weekend.

If you make the rookie mistake of partying too hard on Friday night, you’ll be hitting the snooze button while everyone else is hitting the beach. On the Saturday morning of Carnaval weekend, the best thing to do is to pack a bag and head to the beach where it’s time to socialize, surf, and sip coconut water and rum.

As the moon rises over the gorgeous 3km-wide expanse of Jacmel bay, it’s time to choose your party. Head to the Vatican for house-crowd-pulling DJs. Get amongst something live and local at Congo Beach Club or Suave, where they usually feature live concerts with a variety of artists. Kreyol La, Carimi, T-Vice and RAM are more good choices. Stay up as late as you like, but remember that Sunday is the big finale.

This brings us to the final stretch of the weekend: Sunday, and the main event. “Kanaval” proper is a parade the floods the streets with song and rhythm and color. The creativity and intricacy of the masks is constantly astonishing: alongside the primary colors, voluminous dresses and cornucopia-turban-hats you expect, you’ll see a much more modern palette of costumes, body painting and masks that veer into the dark, bizarre and surreal, rivalling the novelty and extravagance of Burning Man.

All this is set to a ceaseless backdrop of Caribbean rhythm and voices lifted in song, often creole. The bands have an impressive level of energy and stamina, and the “cha” will teach you that music can be played louder than you thought was possible. For the next twelve hours, the main streets will be packed with movement as the crowd parties throughout the night and into the early hours of Monday.

Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval, Haiti — Carnival stand at Jacmel Carnaval
Franck Fontain

Carnaval stands

It’s recommended to fork out $10-$30 for a ticket to a stand. You can leave your belongings up there and disappear into the crowd, ride the wave of the parade participants, and then return for a rest when you need to.

Travellers who are in Haiti on a budget might be tempted to forgo a seat in one of the Carnaval stands that looks out over the parade, but their hopes of getting closer to the action and a more authentic (and cheaper) experience will soon be dashed against the rocks of inconvenience and exhaustion. It’s much better to have a spot on a stand and not use it than to need a spot on a stand and not have it.

If you sprinted into the weekend on Friday night with a big hoorah then the parades, rara bands and cha’s on Sunday will more than likely exceed your tolerance for stimulus. But if you start your weekend off right, you’ll be able to keep up with the rum cocktails, the rara and cha.

Carnaval is vibrant mayhem, organized chaos, unfathomably loud, fascinatingly beautiful, and will surprise you year after year. Because, let’s be honest, once you’ve experienced it…you’ll be back.

Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018

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Not just naive: check out the art at Le Centre d’Art

August 28, 2018 by Editor

Sign above the entrance to Le Centre d’Art, Port-au-Prince — Le Centre d’Art, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Not just naive: check out the art at Le Centre d’Art

Located at Rue Roy, Le Centre d’Art is an institution dedicated to nurturing Haitian artists and their work, as well as documenting and safeguarding the legacy of Haitian art by making it more accessible to the Haitian public. As well as offering free access to Haitian art and its history, Le Centre d’Art also offers art classes.

Mission

Le Centre d’Art was born from a genuine desire to see Haitian art grow and expand. In the Haiti of the late 1940s, before the Haitian Naïve style was made famous by international art dealers, there was no such thing as an art gallery in Port-au-Prince, let alone a public art school; this was not in the scope of the government of the time.

It was still, however, an issue that was very important to many intellectuals in Haiti and particularly to American watercolorist DeWitt Peters. An artist by trade, Peters was always encouraging others to pursue their artistic interests; Le Centre d’Art is the fruit of this encouragement, support, and guidance. From its founding days, Le Centre d’Art has been invested in mentoring Haitian artists in their craft.

About the collection

As part of its mission to give Haitian art its rightful place in Haitian society, Le Centre d’Art has five collections which are split up according to medium.

There is a collection that features paintings on different types of supports, one which showcases metal and wooden sculptures, a collection regrouping graphic art by prestigious artists and one collection where paper archives and artwork dossiers are preserved. The last collection features art publications – which includes the very first Haitian art review published by Le Centre d’Art itself.

Lovers of art will be happy to learn that although Le Centre d’Art was affected by the 2010 earthquake, the collections were successfully saved and works that were damaged have been restored. The team efforts resulted in over 5,000 pieces of art being saved and the gallery reopened in 2012 with a fully restored collection.

Most of these paintings you’ll see in Haiti are under the umbrella of Naïve art. Popularised through initiatives launched by Le Centre d’Art, as well as Peters’ own encouragement of individual artists, you can now find examples of the Naïve style all over Haiti – on the walls of the Brothers of Christian Instruction in Pétion-Ville, at the Wynne Farm Nature Reserve in Kenscoff, or in the public squares of Champ de Mars.

Le Centre d’Art is no exception, but you’ll find an unlimited range of expression here. Works from creators of all types of backgrounds are shown in the collections – from Naïve artists to storytellers to autodidacts and intuitive visionaries. The mission of Le Centre d’Art is to bring Haitian art into the light – regardless of its genre or origin.

Art classes

Classes at Le Centre d’Art are taught mostly by Haitian artists who are either affiliated with programs linked to the gallery or who have called the gallery home at some point in their career. These paid classes are open to participants of all ages and backgrounds, and some – like the children’s art class – are specifically geared towards the public.

How to visit

Le Centre d’Art is open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 9 in the morning to 6 in the afternoon. Entrance to the gallery is free.

For lovers of art, lovers of history, and lovers of art history, Le Centre d’Art is an accessible portal to Haitian creativity. A wonderful way to spend an hour or two out of the tropical sun and immersed in Haiti’s rich and colourful culture!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018

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Ciné Triomphe and Rex Théâtre

August 6, 2018 by Editor

Couple leaving the Ciné Triomphe on Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince — Ciné Triomphe on Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Ciné Triomphe and Rex Théâtre

Champ de Mars is home to Haiti’s two major theaters. Read about their history, the destructive effects of the 2010 earthquake, and how you can visit them today.

Take a closer look

Opened in the 1930s, Rex Théâtre has seen Haiti’s culture shift and evolve and adapt to modern times. In the past, it housed many of Haiti’s literary figures as well as French poet André Breton. When the theater was still standing, the dance school Joëlle Donatien Belot would hold its yearly musical there. Parents and students rushed through the antique-lit corridors, ballet tights moved between dress pants and shiny shoes, and impatient audiences filled the foyer. The Rex was where modern movies were first shown in Haiti, and crowds could indulge in American snacks like hot dogs and popcorn.

During the 2010 earthquake, the Rex theater was almost entirely destroyed, and only the bare bones are left standing. If you visit the Champs de Mars, you’ll find it boarded up with colourful sheet metal and street art, waiting to be brought back to life.

The Ciné Triomphe fared better than the Rex Theatre. A competitor of the Rex in the mid century as a popular destination for film-lovers, the Triomphe actually closed down in the 1980s and sat empty. Three decades later, in 2015, the Triomphe reopened after arduous renovations, filling the gap created by the tragic – but hopefully temporary – loss of the Rex. The Triomphe now sports a sleek modern façade, with lettering in a bold red typeface. The Ministry of Culture has been in talks with the Bank of the Republic of Haiti to further improve the new venue.

Under the eaves of the Triomphe theatre, a long strip of artisans sell their arts and crafts: paintings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, wooden bowls, metalwork, and more. Interspersed between these artisans street food merchants sell hot food, usually rice and beans, by the Styrofoam box. For an authentic treat, and relief from the Caribbean heat, find a Fresko or snow-cone merchant.

Getting there

The Ciné Triomphe and Rex Théâtre are located in Port-au-Prince on Champs de Mars.

People walk past the painted, ruined facade of Rex Théâtre on Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince — Rex Théâtre on Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018

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The Peabody House – A Gingerbread Palace

July 25, 2018 by admin

Aerial photo of the historic gingerbread building Peabody House in Pacot, Haiti — Peabody House in Pacot, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

The Peabody House – A Gingerbread Palace

Constructed at the turn of the century, the delightful Peabody House is Haiti’s most famous example of a celebrated architectural form unique to the Caribbean.

Called ‘Gingerbread Houses,’ the high turrets, wraparound balconies, window peaks and lace-like lattice work make these tropical mansions into works of art.

Take a closer look

Situated in the main street of Pacot in the outskirts of Port-au-Prince, the Peabody House is almost completely obscured from the road. The house is set well into its block on Rue Garoute and surrounded by enough tropical palms that you wouldn’t be able to see it unless you knew what to look for.

Once inside the gate, you’ll notice a dozen large orb lamps hanging from wraparound porches on both levels. They punctuate the high French doors and draw the gaze to a focal point in what could otherwise be an overwhelming first impression. Large green palms rise to frame the wonderful architecture and add a lush air of luxury. Every part of the design has been carefully thought-through, and there’s no substitute for seeing it up close.

Walking up the cobblestone driveway towards the white three-story mansion, Peabody House rises up like a lavish palace. The pastel color scheme and cantilevered balconies might give you the sense that it’s more decorative than practical, but once you step onto the expansive porch you get a sense of the genius behind the design.

gothic victorian gingerbread mansion with orange roof — The Peabody House in Pacot, Port-au-Prince
Photo: World Monuments Fund

Comfort is key

The gingerbread design maximises air and light. Sunshine spills into the open-plan rooms, and cool air circulates throughout. Since Haiti is hot most of the year, the Peabody House, like all gingerbread houses built around Port-au-Prince, has high ceilings, windows and doors. Carved holes notched into the top of each door allow even more air to flow through.

Peabody House is without a doubt one of architect Leon Mathon’s most masterful gingerbread designs in all of Haiti. He built it in 1912 for Gustav Keitel. Originally named “Bismarchshock,” it was painstakingly restored in the 60s by American designer-decorator, Lawrence Peabody, and promptly renamed in gratitude.

You might say that gingerbreads are the original open-concept homes. On each of the house’s three levels, interior rooms open onto multiple wide, covered balconies. The high ceilings and broad, open windows allows breezes to blow freely through the entire house.

Wide shutters are thrown open onto views of the leafy green garden and a generously-sized swimming pool. It was inside a house just like this that Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister Pauline lived during her residence in Cap-Haïtien.

A flourishing national architectural style

Gingerbreads have been called “Haiti’s endangered species” and stalking the streets of Pacot in hope of a glimpse is a worthy way to spend an afternoon.

Hundreds of gingerbread mansions like Peabody House were built in Port-au-Prince, but no two are alike. One of the easiest ways you can visit these wonders is by heading to Pacot. It’s a largely residential neighborhood in Port-au-Prince, where most of the former gingerbread mansions have been converted into hotels like the Oloffson, art galleries such as El Saeih, and restaurants – including the fittingly-named Gingerbread.

What each house has in common is imaginative and delicate designs carved out of wood. Each mansion reflects the individuality of its owner and, importantly, it reflects the spirit of the day. In post-1804 independence Haiti, architecture was used to differentiate the island identity from that of France. They adapted different styles and a keen eye can distinguish subsets of architectural formalities that can be found from Jeremie to Jacmel to Cap-Haïtien. Gingerbread houses remain uniquely Haitian.

Light, air and love

Although they top the list of Haiti’s most recognised cultural heritage, the survival of gingerbread houses is under threat. Regular and expensive maintenance – everything from fixing roof lattices to fighting termites – is required to keep historic mansions like the Peabody House at their best, and some have sadly fallen into disrepair. But thanks to the constant vigilance of the Denis family, the Peabody House is in remarkable condition. Termites are kept at bay and you’ll often see fresh white paint on the eaves, turrets and lacework balconies.

The Peabody Mansion is indeed thriving even 100 years after its construction. If you look closely, you’ll see the brass plaque on the front of the house that pays tribute to German emigre to Haiti, Gustav Kietel, and the spirit of the day on which this fabulous dream was constructed. The plaque sums up what Gingerbread Houses were made for – “Licht, luft, liebe” (“light, air, love”).

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published July 2018

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Jacmel City Guide

July 4, 2018 by Editor

Ocean boardwalk in Jacmel — Boardwalk at Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Whether you’re looking for adventure, nature, fast festival rhythms, rejuvenation on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel will slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

old colonial houses in coastal city — City center of Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Switch off in the City of Light

Once dubbed the “City of Light,” the seaside city of Jacmel was the first place in the Caribbean to get electricity back in the nineteenth century. These days, there’s something else unusual about Jacmel’s power use – it’s limited, meaning if you Airbnb here, you better be prepared with backup batteries for the daily ritual of switching off from the grid.

For many Americans power outages are rare, unpredictable, inconvenient and even spooky. They’re when you realise you forgot to put fresh batteries in your flashlights, and/or leave your flashlights where you can find them in the dark. For the residents of Jacmel, though, it’s part of the daily rhythm, and it doesn’t seem to phase the travellers who love coming back to Jacmel every year. Jacmel is famous for festivals, and in-between it’s a magical destination, well-equipped to help you switch-off and hit reset.

Stairs with a mosaic of words in Jacmel, Haiti — Stairs with mosaik art in Jacmel
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Art & Culture

Known as the culture capital of Haiti, Jacmel is a hub for art, folklore, foodies, festivals and nightlife. Colorful paper-mache creations, often seen during Jacmel’s annual carnival, can be found and bought all year round. Many of the masks and paintings are reflective of Haiti’s deeply unique religion – the potent symbology of Haitian Vodou infuses the city streets.

Jacmel is a compact city, and easy to explore on foot. For a closer look, you can ask local guides Experience Jacmel to take you to visit a Vodou “peristyle” or help you make your own carnival mask.

A tourist stands on a stone bridge across rapids at Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti — Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Are you more of an outdoorsy-type? Jacmel offers excellent proximity to many of Haiti’s most exciting al-fresco adventures. Reconnect with nature at La Vallée, Bassin Bleu, Marigot or Fort Ogè in Cap Rouge – all within a short drive or a sturdy hike.

The tropical sun will test your mettle, but for the brave and well-prepared there are caves waiting to be discovered, waterfalls waiting to be jumped off of and swam under, steep and shady jungle paths for you to leave footprints on, and crisp mountain air to reset your cortisol levels. You’ll find adventure itineraries suited to your level from novice hiker to hardened overland survivor.

people swimming by beach with trees — La Saline Beach in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Crazy-good beaches

If you’d rather hit the snooze button than the gym, no sweat! Beach bums can relax at one of Jacmel’s several stunning strips of paradisian sand, including Cyvadier, Raymond les Bains, L’Amitie and Kabic. Soak up the sun, catch some waves, sip on a coconut (would you like that with rum?), and lick your fingers after a plate of freshly caught and barbecued seafood.

Whether you’re hoping to realign your chakras or just happy to find inner peace in a succession of ice-cold rum cocktails, you’ll find bliss on the beaches of Jacmel.

The colorful exterior of Cafe Koze in Jacmel, Haiti — Cafe Koze in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The food culture in Jacmel is thriving, and published guides struggle to keep up with the pace of new hotels, bars and restaurants springing up all of the place.

Take to the mosaic boardwalk as you trace the coastline, by day a popular place for active types out jogging, and by night full of eclectically-clothed hipster students. Venture just a couple of streets inland from the boardwalk and you’ll find a mix of traditional and boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries, with a few souvenir shops thrown into the mix.

Where to eat

If you’ve just arrived, settle in at the chilled-out Cafe Koze, where you can people-watch over their mouth-watering homemade rum-and-raisin ice-cream.

Hotel Florita, once the mansion of a coffee magnate, will appeal to fans of Graham Greene. Here you can sit in the sultry semi-open courtyard (the UNESCO-listed hotel has no air conditioners), and sip a traditional Haitian filter coffee – exceedingly sweet and rich, and every bit as addictive as Vietnamese coffee. The restaurant serves excellent Haitian food palatable for cautious Americans and Europeans, but be warned: waiting times can exceed an hour. You won’t mind though, because they also make delectable rum sours, and the first is on the house!

If what you’re after is exotic food and exquisite beachfront views, head to Hotel Cyvadier Plage. Their shrimp and chicken dishes are crowd pleasers, but their specialty is in brightly constructed plates based on seasonal catch. In fact, if you’re breakfasting in the courtyard (and know a little French), you’re so close to the lapping shore that you can chat with fisherman as they tie up their boats to deliver the catch of the day.

Where to drink

Start with La Taverne or Belle Epoque Barak. La Taverne is where you’ll find more rum sours, and occasionally salsa performances. Belle Epoque is where expats go to stay up late listening to hip hop and house. They also do pretty good wings – not a bad way to line your stomach before a long rum-fuelled night of dancing.

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti — Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dance to your own beat

Jacmel is one of the friendliest and most tranquil cities in Haiti, but if you want to pack the most into a short break here, the best way to plug yourself into the pulse that feeds the city is to book in advance to stay during one of the festival weekends. Renowned DJs and artists will bring together hundreds, sometimes thousands of people, from all walks of life, to sing, dance, and celebrate. Whether your flavour of choice is rara or bachata, compa or salsa, house or tango, ask around on a holiday weekend, and you will find your party.

There’s too many festivals to list them all here, but briefly: Independence Day and New Years Day share January 1, and Carnival (think an Afro-Caribbean Mardi Gras) is held in the lead up to Shrove Tuesday. There’s also festivals that celebrate storytelling, rum, and the identity-affirming Rara.

Who should go?

Jacmel holds something for everyone. Whether you are looking for new adventure, to reconnect nature, to let your hair down surrounded by the pounding festival rhythms, or to rejuvenate on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel has something to slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

One last thing before you head back up over the mountains: buy yourself a t-shirt that reads “Jacmel Mwen Fou Pou Ou” (Kreyol for “Jacmel, I’m Crazy For You”) and become part of the unofficial Jacmel fan club. Welcome to the gang.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018.

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culture

Party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval

A weekend at Jacmel’s annual Carnaval is the ultimate way to saturate your senses in the essence of Haitian culture. Here’s how to join the party.

Getting here

Where to stay

How to party

Carnaval stands

Citadelle Henri

Explore more festivals and events

Paradise for your inbox

Not just naive: check out the art at Le Centre d’Art

Mission

About the collection

Art classes

How to visit

Find Le Centre d’Art

External Links

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Looking for more art and culture?

Paradise for your inbox

Ciné Triomphe and Rex Théâtre

Champ de Mars is home to Haiti’s two major theaters. Read about their history, the destructive effects of the 2010 earthquake, and how you can visit them today.

Take a closer look

Getting there

Find Ciné Triomphe

External Links

Citadelle Henri

Looking for some cool things to do?

Paradise for your inbox

The Peabody House – A Gingerbread Palace

Take a closer look

Comfort is key

A flourishing national architectural style

Light, air and love

Find The Peabody House

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Explore Haiti’s history and heritage

Paradise for your inbox

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Switch off in the City of Light

Art & Culture

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Crazy-good beaches

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

Where to eat

Where to drink

Dance to your own beat

Who should go?

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

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Plan Your Trip

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