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From Legba to Erzulie: A Guide to Haitian Vodou Gods & Goddesses

The Vodou spirit Agaou
Photo: Verdy Verna

From Legba to Erzulie: A Guide to Haitian Vodou Gods & Goddesses

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Enter the mystical world of Haitian Vodou, where powerful gods reign supreme. From the fierce warrior Ogoun to the loving mother Erzulie, practitioners have revered and honored these deities for centuries. But beyond the Hollywood portrayals of zombies and trance possessions, lies a rich cultural heritage steeped in tradition, ritual, and community.

Join us as we go deeper into the fascinating realm of the spirits and discover the true essence of Haitian Vodou.

How many Vodou gods are there in Haitian Vodou?

Actually, there are no gods or goddesses in Vodou. There are no angels or demons, either. Generally, Vodou practitioners agree on the existence of a higher entity. They often call it “Bondye” or “Granmet.” Everything that lives and breathes is placed under its supreme authority. But the everyday life and beliefs of the Vodou practitioner are under the aegis of particular entities. These are the Loas.

Rèn Kongo
Photo: Verdy Verna

So what are these Loas?

Think of them as spiritual intermediaries between God and us mortals. The thing is, Vodou practitioners see the Loas as powerful energies that take care of our everyday affairs, while Bondye stays hands-off. Sure, calling Bondye the ‘God of Vodou’ is a bit of a misnomer, but that doesn’t change how important the spirits are in the lives of Vodou practitioners. They’re the ones honored during all those ceremonies and rituals you might have heard about.

You won’t find a sacred Vodou Bible that lists all the deities because Vodou is a complex and dynamic spirituality. Haitian Vodou’s spirits are rooted in African, Caribbean, and indigenous cultures, like those of the Taíno, the Kingdom of Dahomey, and the Congo.

Some practitioners will tell you there are 401 nasyon (families of Loas), and others will mention 101 or 21 nasyon. It’s a way of saying there are a lot of Loas out there, known and unknown.

To help make sense of it all, here’s a list of the most well-known Loas.

Papa Legba
Photo: Verdy Verna

Papa Legba

Let’s start with Papa Legba, the gateway to the spirit world and the one who unlocks the secrets of Vodou. Known as a trickster Loa, he’s often portrayed as an older man leaning on a crutch, accompanied by one or more dogs. During Vodou ceremonies, he’s the first one to be invoked, as he opens the spiritual gateway that separates the Loas from our physical world.

In addition, Papa Legba is the guardian of portals, doors, and crossroads and is known by many names, such as Atibon Legba, Legba Met Kafou, and Legba Potay. His role is critical in any Vodou ritual, as he’s the one who grants access to the other Loas and allows them to manifest themselves during the ceremony.

Danmbala Wèdo & Ayida Wèdo
Photo: Verdy Verna

Damballah Wèdo and Ayida Wèdo

Meet Damballa Wèdo and Ayida Wèdo – the ultimate divine power couple. They symbolize the perfect balance and harmony of all creation, representing both masculine and feminine energies. When together, they’re often depicted as two intertwined snakes, showcasing the union of their spirits.

Damballa is the original force of creation, believed to be the inner voice of God. He’s the source of all wisdom and knowledge and represents the serpent of the earth and the horizon.

Ayida, on the other hand, is the rainbow, the snake of the sky. She gives rain to the earth and restores its beauty. Together, Damballa and Ayida are the source of life and wisdom. You can often spot their symbol of the intertwined snakes on Vodou drums, furniture, and even the poto mitan (the central pole of a peristyle).

Ayizan Velekete
Photo: Verdy Verna

Ayizan Velekete

A wise old woman who walks the roads with her trusty cane, Ayizan Velekete is more than just a simple figure. She is the guardian of commerce and economy, known for her ancient wisdom and pure spirit. Her benevolent eye watches over business activities and roads, and Vodou practitioners often call upon her for success in their ventures.

As the wife of Papa Loko, they work together to ensure the purity and respect of the Vodou tradition. Her favorite tree is the palm tree, symbolizing royalty, though she is often depicted as a shrewd old woman.

Papa Loko
Photo: Verdy Verna

Papa Loko

Papa Loko is a powerful Loa, and his importance is beautifully illustrated in a popular Haitian folk song famously performed by Toto Bissainthe: “Papa Loko ou se Van, pouse n ale nou se papiyon” (Papa Loko, you’re the wind, pushing us, and we become butterflies).

As the guardian of Vodou temples (known as hounfour), he’s responsible for maintaining the Vodou tradition and for passing down wisdom to new initiates in the roles of Vodou priests and priestesses. He’s highly respected and often honored by Vodou practitioners who use his asson (rattle) during rituals.

But that’s not all – with his extensive knowledge of herbal medicines and natural remedies, Papa Loko is also a healing Loa who can aid those in need of physical, emotional, or spiritual healing.

Kouzen Zaka
Photo: Verdy Verna

Kouzen Zaka

Known as the quintessential farmer Loa, Kouzen Zaka is beloved by rural communities for his ability to ensure a bountiful harvest and prosperity in the fields. He’s often depicted wearing a straw hat and carrying a machete and a djakout (woven grass bag). Celebrated every May 1st during the feast of agriculture and work, he’s known to consume laziness and idleness.

Kouzen Zaka is a friend to hardworking people, granting them success in their labors. He’s often associated with Saint Isadore of Seville and loves all Haitians, living or dead. With a childlike version of himself called Ti-Zaka in some lineages, this lovable Loa is all about embracing the power of hard work.

Met Agwe Tawoyo
Photo: Verdy Verna

Met Agwe

A powerful spirit of the oceans, Met Agwe Tawoyo is the ruler and guardian of its bounties. He’s often compared to the Greek god Poseidon and is beloved by fishermen and sailors for his generous spirit. His mythical residence, Nan Zile, is said to be hidden deep in the sea’s depths.

During Vodou rituals, those possessed by Met Agwe often turn towards the sea, acknowledging his powerful presence. He’s married to Mambo La Sirène, the Haitian mermaid, and together they rule over a large group of spirits in the Vodou pantheon.

Manbo Lasirèn Dyaman
Photo: Verdy Verna

Manbo Lasiren Dyaman

In the world of Haitian Vodou, the mermaid goddess of the sea, Lasiren, reigns supreme. With her alluring half-woman, half-fish form, she embodies the wealth and abundance of the ocean and is revered as a powerful Loa who can grant prosperity and good fortune to her followers.

As the wife of Met Agwe, she rules over the vast kingdom of the oceans with him. According to Haitian culture, whoever finds her comb will become the master of immense wealth. But beware – Lasiren isn’t just a benevolent spirit. When angered, she can be fickle and dangerous. In her alternate form of Labalenn, the whale, she can manifest as a powerful force of unconscious strength.

Learn more about Haitian mermaids and other mystical creatures of Haitian folklore!

Erzulie Freda
Photo: Verdy Verna

Erzulie Freda

The Haitian Vodou Loa of love, beauty, and prosperity, Erzulie Freda might be compared to the Greek goddess Aphrodite. She is a powerful spirit known for her vanity and timid nature. To receive her as a guest during rituals, practitioners must treat her with honors due to her status as a fine lady. She loves heady perfumes, jewels, and anything related to beauty and coquetry.

She is considered a generous spirit, lavishing her followers with material and spiritual gifts and lots of love, yet she can also be fickle, difficult, and even cruel. Freda is commonly invoked by men seeking sexual prowess or riches and is often assisted by her “sister,” the Petwo spirit Ezili Danto.

Erzulie Dantò
Photo: Verdy Verna

Erzulie Dantò

Also known as Mami Dantò, Erzulie Dantò is a powerful and protective mother figure in the Vodou tradition. Often depicted holding a knife, she symbolizes justice and will forcefully fight to protect her children, who are her loyal followers. She is a single mother, a Haitian peasant who is fiercely independent and takes care of her own.

Unlike the Erzulie Freda deity, Dantò does not need frills or coquetry. Instead, she is strong and determined to provide for her children. Despite her harsh appearance, she is deeply caring and dedicated to her children and will stop at nothing to protect them. She is also a guardian and protector of orphans, sick children, and those who have been abused.

Ogou Feray
Photo: Verdy Verna

Ogou

The mighty warrior Loa of Ogou, is the embodiment of a fighting spirit. Like the Roman war gods Mars and Jupiter, he commands respect and fear from his followers. As the protector and guardian of his people, Ogou is associated with fire, the sword and war.

He is a fierce and formidable deity with multiple forms, including Ogou Feray, Ogou Batala and Ogou Badagri. Each Ogou spirit has​​ distinct characteristics and attributes, but they all share a love for war, the sword, and forge work. With his powerful energy and stern discipline, Ogou is the perfect guide for those seeking to overcome their fears and become stronger, better versions of themselves.

Ogou is said to embody the warrior spirit of the old Oyo Empire in West Africa, and his Vèvè is the totem of the emperors and kings that have followed Abiodun, King of the Oyo people.

Met Kafou
Photo: Verdy Verna

Met Kafou

If you’re brave enough to summon Met Kafou, prepare for a test of willpower, determination, and discipline. This formidable Loa is the master of dark magic and sorcery, and he doesn’t grant his favors lightly. However, if you can prove yourself to be worthy, Met Kafou can bestow immense power and knowledge upon you.

But be careful: his gifts come at a steep price, and he won’t hesitate to exact it. If you’re willing to take the risk, proceed with caution and tread carefully, lest you fall prey to the powerful forces that lie in wait.

Bawon Samdi
Photo: Verdy Verna

Bawon Samdi and the Gede

Also known as Baron Samedi, is the leader of the Gede Loa group, the spirits of the dead in Vodou tradition. He is the guardian of the barrier between the living and the dead and is responsible for ensuring that the souls of the deceased pass into the afterlife safely.

He is often depicted as a tall, dark figure dressed in a top hat, black tuxedo, and sunglasses, with a skull for a face. Bawon Samdi is known for his mischievous and playful nature, but it should not be taken lightly, as he holds the power of life and death in his hands.

He is often invoked in rituals to communicate with the deceased and is said to be able to heal the sick and protect against evil spirits. The Gede also include other powerful Loas such as Baron Lacroix, Baron Kriminel, Gede Nibo, Papa Gede, and Gede Mazaka, each with their unique personalities and powers.

Learn more about Fèt Gede, the Haitian day of the dead celebration that honors the Gede spirits, and see the photos from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published February 2023.


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Eight of the Best Books Written by Haitian Women Authors

A Haitian woman at Pic Macaya
Photo: Tyler Welsh

Eight of the Best Books Written by Haitian Women Authors

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Women’s voices form an essential part of contemporary literature, with an increasing number imposing themselves on the international literary scene. Poets, novelists, essayists, and theorists, these women writers never fail to deliver when it comes to creative genius. Haitian women writers have refused to remain on the sidelines in a male-dominated environment.

We’ve rounded up eight of the most brilliant books by Haitian women authors to make room for on your bookshelf.

Love, Anger, Madness by Marie Vieux-Chauvet

Here is a novel that critics won’t stop praising anytime soon. Leading to its author’s exile from Haiti, Marie Vieux-Chauvet’s Love, Anger, Madness (Amour, colère, folie) was immediately banned by the political regime in place when it was published in 1968. A trilogy in one volume, the novel follows three sisters; Claire, Félicia, and Annette, all of whom live under the dictator Duvalier’s authoritarian regime. Each of them corresponds to one of the words in the title, and each will see their family fall apart in this tragedy.

This novel is considered one of the most beautiful in modern Haitian literature. For Haitian-Canadian author Dany Laferrière, Marie Vieux-Chauvet possesses “the clear and pure voice of a lucid and unshakeable novelist.” If you want to begin stocking your library with literature by Haitian women writers, you’ll do well to start with this remarkably well-written, must-read novel.

The Colour of Dawn by Yanick Lahens

A common theme of Haitian literature is the imprint left by the many political crises and repressive regimes the country has faced. Fortunately, they haven’t managed to stifle the voices of our talented Haitian women writers. Yannick Lahens is one of the most brilliant examples of this creative genius and an expression of the certain attachment an engaged writer feels to their homeland.

Published in 2008 (by Sabine Wespieser), The Colour of Dawn (La couleur de l’aube) tells the story of a Haitian family facing a political crisis, misery, and violence. Fignolé, the youngest of the siblings, doesn’t come home one night while bullets are raining down on Port-au-Prince. His mother and two sisters, each with their own unique temperament, set out together to find him.

Savage Seasons by Kettly Mars

No better work can follow the latter novels mentioned than this remarkable book by Kettly Mars. Attesting to the dark moments of oppression and suffering experienced by Haitian families during the Duvalier dictatorship, Savage Seasons (Saisons sauvages) tells the story of Nirvah. To save her husband, who is imprisoned at the infamous Fort Dimanche, Nirvah must offer up her body to the then Secretary of State.

Savage Seasons testifies poignantly to an era deeply rooted in Haitian memory. It’ll surely strike you with its gritty realism.

Dew Breaker by Edwidge Danticat

In this curious tale, Edwidge Danticat surprises us with the confession delivered by the main character, who, from one day to the next, goes from executioner and torturer to prey. He gives us an incredible account of the lives he has destroyed and seen ruined.

The protagonist saves himself from the populist purge thanks to the love of a woman and her daughter. However, he’s constantly confronted by ghosts of his past that stick to him and prove challenging to get rid of, despite being in exile.

Guillaume and Natalie by Yanick Lahens

In reading this surprising love story by Yanick Lahens, it’s easy to get caught up in the eroticism that emanates from the unusual couple at the heart of the novel. The author admits that she’s always wanted to write a love story. Still, despite the muted sensuality that emerges at the start, our two lovebirds are quickly brought back to the reality of their city and country. This narrative helps create a compelling and authentic-feeling love story.

Taking place the day before the 2010 earthquake, Guillaume and Natalie offer a taste of local Haitian color. Without resorting to fatalism, Lahens tells us the love story of a fifty-year-old sociologist and his encounter with Natalie, a thirty-year-old whose love for Haiti brings her back home after years of absence – and despite the wounds, she carries from her time there.

The Farming of Bones by Edwidge Danticat

The brilliant pen of one of Haiti’s best women writers, Edwidge Danticat, often transports us back in time and, through memory, allows us to experience past moments. Her second novel, The Farming of Bones, takes us back with vigor to one of the darkest periods in the history of Haiti and the Dominican Republic: the parsley massacre (Masak nan Pèsil)).

This novel is not only in the service of memory, however. It tells the remarkable love story of an orphan named Amabelle and a Haitian sugar cane cutter named Sebastien.

Amabelle is taken in and raised by a Dominican family as a young girl and becomes their servant. Meanwhile, the situation of Haitians changes drastically following the rise of the dictator Trujillo in the Dominican Republic. Amabelle manages to escape the bloody Persil massacre, but at what cost? This book marks a powerful tribute to the voices of those silenced, and reveals Danticat to be one of our most poetic writers alive.

Moonbath by Yanick Lahens

Moonbath (Bain de lune) is one of Yanick Lahens’ best-known books. Centered on  Haitian peasantry in the town of Anse Bleue, Lahens’ novel tells the story of a young girl who is found washed up on the shore. In reading Moonbath, you’ll be immediately plunged into a whirlwind of colors and scents, a true kaleidoscope of scenes infused with the poetry of popular Haitian beliefs.

Love, lust, Haitian peasantry, Vodou, and struggles for power: are all found in this cleverly composed novel, which won Lahens the prestigious Femina Prize (Prix Femina) in 2014.

Breath Eyes Memory by Edwidge Danticat

You’re likely to enjoy this sensitive tale spun by Edwidge Danticat. It’s the story of love and conflict that unites Sophie and her mother, who had not been in her life for her first twelve years. When Sophie leaves to join her mother in the United States, she must confront her contradictory feelings, including the fact that she has always considered her aunt to be her actual mother.

Danticat builds this moving story around traditional maternal figures and the obsession with preserving virginity and “female purity.” In it, we have a variety of compelling characters: Grandmother Ife, whose blessing must be sought; Martine, who finds herself with a child whose face reminds her of ghosts from the past, but whom she nonetheless tries to protect; Atie, the aunt, who injects all of her feelings of motherhood (for better or worse) into Sophie, who lies at the heart of this magnificent novel.

Just like our enchanting landscapes, historic forts, white sandy beaches, and colorful museums, the literature of our most brilliant Haitian woman authors is worth discovering. So, don’t hesitate to add this unique collection of titles to your reading list today!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published November 2022.


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11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Lansèt kod group in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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If you already know a little about Haiti, then you likely have an idea about our magnificent country, located on the enchanting island of Hispaniola that we share with the Dominican Republic. It’s possible, however, that you have yet to hear about some of the most unique Haitian cultural traditions only known to locals.

To satisfy your curiosity, we’ve rounded up a selection of our oldest traditions, ranging from the daily life in our rural communities to the hubbub of our cities and rich culinary culture.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. “Krik-Krak”

Any true Haitian knows that the exclamation “krik?” always proceeds with an excellent “krak,” or story, as telling tales is an integral part of Haiti’s cultural traditions. Whether under an arbor drinking lemongrass tea with cinnamon or in the comfort of a warm room, the youngest gather around the oldest to tell their tales of yesteryear.

If you want to catch the attention of a Haitian friend, take every opportunity to throw out a “krik?” and they will invariably respond with a “krak.” But your story better be a good one!

Sounds interesting, doesn’t it? Get the backstory to this unique tradition and discover the impact of krik-krak in Haitian culture. Also, for an excellent read, the book Krik? Krak! is a compilation of fascinating Haitian tales by Edwidge Danticat, one of the most famous Haitian women authors to date.

Workers in a konbit in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

2. Konbit

If you pass through some rural regions in Haiti during the tilling season, don’t be surprised to find all the villagers working together or on each other’s lands. This form of social organization in our rural societies is an essential part of our culture and one of the oldest Haitian traditions that continue to this day.

While the men happily handle their kouto digo (hatchet), and machetes to unearth and work the land before its next sowing, women prepare the meals. Moreover, the word “konbit” in Haitian Creole has come into use to refer to living in harmony and the neighborly practices that are unique to the Haitian community.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

3. Lakou

Imagine living in a homeland within another, where each individual forms an integral part of a larger society devoted to a greater good. In Haiti, such a place is known as a lakou. It’s typical to see Haitian families sharing common spaces around their central family units.

The lakou serves as an educational cocoon in which the youngest members can learn about sharing and living in neighborly harmony from their elders. Those who grow up in the commune have a responsibility to one day return to honor their family, seek wise advice, and publicly apologize to the Vodou spirits or loas that may have been offended.

Many Haitian rural communities rely on the social organization that lakou provide to advance in everyday living – and not only do they till the ground together but also share and practice their belief in Haitian Vodou. The worship of spirits is deeply entrenched in the lakou, and well-known lakou like Souvans, Soukri, and Badio maintain this cultural tradition unique to Haiti.

Beny chans preparations in Kabik
Photo: Anton Lau

4. Beny chans

It might seem strange from the looks of it initially, but if you happen to come across a large water bowl of mixed herbs and leaves while traveling through Haiti, then you’ve encountered a “beny chans.” Traditionally an herbal shower for women after giving birth, it is also considered a potion for good luck, finding a soulmate, or even protection during a life-changing trip.

If you didn’t grow up in Haiti, you might be wary about dipping your hands in this unusual mixture. Still, for locals, it’s all part of the unique Haitian culture – so much so that it wouldn’t be surprising for a native living abroad to return to Haiti to receive this sacred anointment on New Year’s eve.

Feeling adventurous? Go and give it a try. But don’t forget to tap into your African-Caribbean roots with our guide on returning to the motherland.

a vodou priest and practitioner performing a dance
Ritual at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. Vodou ceremony and dance

Here’s one of the Haitian cultural traditions that will undoubtedly arouse your curiosity. Forget about the mainstream concept of a group of bloodthirsty Satanists gathering at a run-down Gothic-style church – this is Hollywood stereotyping at its best. Instead, think of an authentic spiritual experience where members enter a trance-like state in alignment with powerful spiritual entities.

Haitian culture isn’t the only one that has Vodou as a religious practice, with similar rituals actively performed in places like the Deep South” in Louisiana or the insular African nation of Benin. In countries such as Brazil and Cuba, the practice of Santeria is still common in many communities. The Haitian Vodou tradition, however, involves elements from years of syncretism, resulting in a blend of African, Christian, and Taíno spiritual traditions.

Vodou is a strong cultural tradition in the Haitian collective imagination—and it’s present in Haitian paintings, music, dances, and literature. More than simply religion or spirituality, Vodou is an intangible patrimony that all Haitians share, whether they consider themselves a true practitioner or not.

Ready for an experience of your own? Find out how to attend a Vodou ceremony in Haiti.

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

6. Fèt Gede

The dead occupy a place of central importance in Haitian daily life, and honoring them constitutes one of the most sacred cultural traditions. To do this, the entire month of November is consecrated each year to ceremonies aimed at appeasing the dead and communicating with them. The spirits that reign over the world of the dead in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Bawon Samdi and Grann Brigitte.

The Gédé symbolizes the spirits of those who have passed into the other world. During the ceremonies organized in their honor, they return to bring joy to the people with their frenzied dancing and salacious speech.

Every Haitian day of the dead celebration is packed with an aura of excitement and mysticism, which you can see for yourself in this photo journal from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band marching in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

7. Rara

Not all Haitian cultural traditions have origins as dark as those about death. In fact, some of them are rather joyous, and the Rara is a perfect example. These groups that march on foot along the streets during pre-Carnaval weekends and the Easter period constitute one of Haiti’s best-known cultural practices.

These spirited groups of bons vivants play various instruments, such as bamboo, the vaccine, cymbals, and sometimes even trumpets and other brass instruments. Their repertoire can run from parodies of popular songs to original songs and those written for special occasions.

Each group is preceded by a man who carries a flag, a woman who wears the group’s colors, and young girls who start the procession. Following are musicians and the rest of the good-natured group that dances along to the sound of the music.

Now, the practice of Rara isn’t only particular to Haiti; other Caribbean nations like Cuba and the Dominican Republic, where it is known as Gaga, have adopted this cultural tradition from Haiti.

Get the true origins behind the Rara tradition of Haiti and join the celebration!

A group of lansèt kod in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Lansèt kòd

If you visit Haiti during the Carnival period, you’ll undoubtedly have the chance to witness one of the most unforgettable cultural traditions: the famous procession of the Lansèt Kòd. Some Haitians will tell you that they were traumatized by it as children. These groups that flood the streets of towns such as Jacmel, Jérémie, or Cap-Haïtien on pre-Carnival Sundays have more than what it takes to impress.

Wearing bull horns on their heads and whips in hand, these men with rippling muscles and bare chests fill up the streets while covered entirely in black paint. Yes, you read that right—they are completely covered with a blacker-than-black substance that will surely make you think of crude oil. Throughout the Carnival procession, they’ll offer up a performance that will remain ingrained in your memory for some time.

Learn more about the Lansèt kòd tradition here!

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Carnival

The Haitian carnival is one of the most widely recognized in the Caribbean. The one hosted in Jacmel has been decreed a national festival due to its artistic allure, attracting numerous tourists every year. It is a brightly colored cultural manifestation where you’ll see Haitian artisans’ talent displayed in themes reminiscent of flora and fauna of the country.

This popular celebration is not only an occasion for artists and artisans to display their talents or attract visitors – but it’s also a means for the population to express their problems with the powers that be. It’s a celebration where all levels of society come together without embarrassment or worrying about societal barriers.

If you’re looking to be part of the festivities this February, then you’d better be prepared to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval.

A bowl of soup joumou
Soup Joumou
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Soup Joumou

If you visit any Haitian family on New Year’s Day, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by a culinary practice as old as Haiti: the traditional Soup Joumou preparation. So forget about your desire to eat anything else, and let our succulent soup seduce your tastebuds.

Prepared from a giraumont (turban squash) base, where the soup gets its name -as well as vegetables and tubers – this dish is a staple in all Haitian households on New Year’s Day. Don’t be surprised to see people incorporating Soup Joumou with every meal served during the entire celebration. It’s just that good.

This tradition hearkens back to January 1st, 1804, when the young nation chose this delicious dish – until then only reserved for the colonizers and special guests – to celebrate their freshly acquired liberty.

Want to find out what makes Soup Joumou so unique? Pick up on some of the history behind the dish, and learn the basics of preparing the best Soup Joumou.

Fête champêtre in Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Fête champêtre

Every city in Haiti has its own patron Saint to which the inhabitants turn to confess their troubles and joys or make special petitions. These cultural celebrations of the patron saints, also called fête champêtres, are on another level.

Regardless of their religious beliefs, locals from other provincial towns, as well as a crowd of curious onlookers and tourists, head toward the capital cities from each village to celebrate the feast dedicated to the patron saint.

Along with religious pilgrims, you also have the partygoers who are only there to enjoy the festival following the Grand Mass of the local parish. Among the most popular fêtes champêtres in Haiti are the celebrations of Notre Dame of Mount Carmel in Saut d’Eau and Notre Dame in Petit Goâve.

Gather with the locals and go on a pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau, whether for spiritual reasons or just to celebrate and party hard with the crowd.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2022.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

15 Fun Facts About Haiti

Sail boat in Labadee
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fun Facts About Haiti

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You’ve probably already heard of Haiti, whether in the news, in history class, or elsewhere. But what exactly do you know about this magnificent country?

We’ve gathered some of the most surprising and interesting facts about our country and the amazing people living here. From cultural celebrations and old flags to weird food traditions and traveler-friendly facts. So, keep reading and get to know Haiti a bit better with these 15 fun facts!

Petite Cayemite island near Pestel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. Haiti is (part of) an island

If you plan to visit the Republic of Haiti, keep in mind that it’s, in fact, the western part of an island that it shares with another republic, the Dominican Republic. The name of this island is Hispaniola. The Dominican Republic lies to the east, and its capital is Santo Domingo. Haiti lies to the west, and its capital is Port-au-Prince. The two nations share, in addition to the island, an eventful history, with each possessing a unique cultural identity despite a few similarities they have in common.

Mountain forest in Seguin, La Visite National Park
Photo: Alamy

2. Haiti is mountainous

No matter where you may find yourself in Haiti, you’ll either be on a mountain range or have one in view. The country is made up of a series of breathtaking mountain landscapes. Actually, the very name Haiti means “mountainous land” in the Taíno language spoken by the island’s indigenous inhabitants.

So if you like hiking in the mountains, Haiti is the perfect tourist destination for you. Two main mountain ranges dominate the country’s topography, covering it from north to south. So, grab your hiking shoes and your camera, and come enjoy our mountain landscapes and the fresh air of the countryside!

sun rising over beach with palm trees and lifeguard chair
Sunrise over Ti Mouillage beach, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

3. It’s summer all year round

In Haiti, there’s sunshine and even more sunshine! In our country, the weather is nice all year round. The tropical climate typically means just one hot season and another season that’s a little milder. So, no matter the time of year, Haiti’s white sandy beaches are waiting to welcome you. Don’t forget to bring your bathing suit to take a dip in the ocean, because the summer is truly never over here – and that’s just a fact!

Labadee Beach
Photo: Shutterstock

4. We have breathtaking coastlines

The Caribbean is well-known for its lovely beaches, and our beaches are among the most beautiful in the region. You can visit Lover Island in Ile à Vache, Labadee in Cap-Haïtien, the Arcadins coast, the Anse Blanche beach close to Pestel, or Boukanye in Petit-Goâve. No matter where you go in Haiti, there’s a lovely white sand beach to discover!

Grotte Marie Jeanne
Photo: CavesOfHaiti.org

5. Haiti has the deepest cave in the Caribbean

Are you a fan of caving and exploring deep underground grottos? If so, dive into one of the Caribbean’s most spectacular cave adventures. With a massive cave system of more than four kilometers (two-and-a-half miles), the Grotte Marie Jeanne is the deepest cave in the Caribbean! Located in the south of Haiti by the city of Port-à-Piment, this impressive cave and its five levels of natural galleries and stalactites will, without a doubt, leave you speechless.

A bowl of soup joumou on a serving tray
Soup Joumou
Photo: Anton Lau

6. World-renowned food

When you discover Haitian cuisine, we are sure you’ll want to tell the whole world! In fact, we have a dish that UNESCO recognizes as part of the “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.” The dish that earned this high honor is a soup like no other, Soup Joumou. This soup is a real treat for the tastebuds, prepared with giraumont (turban squash), other vegetables, tubers, and meat. While traditionally eaten on New Year’s Day among families, as Americans do with Thanksgiving turkey, feel free to delight in this famous soup any time of the year! It’ll be our pleasure.

Read more about  Soup Joumou – The taste of freedom!

Haitian hot peppers
Photo: Anton Lau

7. Haitians enjoy spicy food

While we’re on the topic of Haitian cuisine, it might be a good time to let you know that Haitians eat particularly spicy food, as is the case for many of our Caribbean neighbors. Our cuisine is spiced with goat pepper, vinegar, and all the spices grown locally on the island. Before tasting a Haitian dish, you may want to prepare yourself, as the exceptionally spicy taste of our cuisine might take you by surprise!

Explore the flavors of Haitian cuisine through this culinary map!

Haitian spaghetti breakfast
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Haitians eat spaghetti for breakfast

Let’s continue with the theme of Haitian cuisine. Don’t be too thrown off by our eating habits, which may differ from yours. For example, Haitians truly subscribe to the old adage that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, often eating rather heavy food as soon as they wake up. So, don’t be surprised if a Haitian offers you a big plate of spaghetti for breakfast!

Discover the Haitian street food you have to try!

Street vendors surrounded by baskets of colorful fresh produce at a market in Fermathe, Haiti
Street vendors, Fermathe
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Degi

We have a word for what you get for free when you shop at our local markets. So, don’t forget to claim your degi the next time you visit a Haitian market. The vendor will willingly add this to your groceries if you have made a nice purchase or to encourage you to return!

Two schoolgirls laughing in Corail, Haiti
Schoolgirls in Corail
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Greetings

You may be surprised by how many different greetings you hear when in Haiti. Thanks to the richness of Haitian Creole, you will hear much more than simply bonjou. Keep an ear out for greetings like sak pase (how are you?) or onè respè (cheers!).

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Haitians don’t celebrate Halloween

If you’re a big lover of Halloween costumes and children trick or treating, you can forget about it in Haiti. Many Haitians have not even heard of this holiday, let alone celebrate it.

Instead, Haitians celebrate Fèt Gede, a cultural tradition much like All Saints Day and the Day of the Dead practiced in Mexico and other Latin American countries. Ceremonies are held throughout the month of November to appease the dearly departed, cemeteries are cleaned, and graves are painted to welcome the loa (spirits) of those who return to the earthly realm during this period.

Read more about this unique cultural tradition and see photos from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaïves!

Group of fisherman in Dame Marie, Haiti
Fishermen in Dame Marie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

12. Haitian Creole is the most spoken creole language in the world

When we talk about a “creole” language, we’re referring to a language that developed out of the meeting of Latin, African, and Amerindian languages during colonization and its aftermath. These languages are now spoken in many communities all over the world.

Haitian Creole, however, has the largest number of speakers in the world, and it’s also the most widely used language in Haiti. There’s even a Haitian proverb that testifies to the simplicity of the language and the fact that Haitian Creole is understood as easily as it is spoken: kreyol pale, kreyol konprann.

A jar of Haitian manba (spicy peanut butter)
Photo: Anton Lau

13. In our country, peanut butter is a little bit… extra

We’re guessing you’ve probably already tasted peanut butter. Here in Haiti, this creamy treat is known as manba, and it’s often used as a spread on bread or cassave, which is a flatbread made from cassava root. But what might surprise you — although maybe less so after reading this article — is that our peanut butter is particularly spicy since it’s mixed with hot peppers, ginger, and other local spices. This gives it a potent flavor that is unique to Haiti!

14. The famous novelist Alexandre Dumas is of Haitian origin

Haiti is known for its many poets and novelists who have won international awards, including authors such as Jacques Roumain, Frankétienne, Jean-Stephen Alexis, Marie Chauvet, Dany Laferrière, Edwidge Danticat, and Yanick Lahens. But among the most famous novelists in the world are Alexandre Dumas Jr. and Sr., who are of Haitian origin. The author of the classic novel The Three Musketeers (Dumas Sr.) is, in fact, the son of a mulatto general born in Jérémie when Haiti was still a colony of France.

15. How’s this for a fun fact? Venezuela’s flag was created in Haiti

You might know the flag of Venezuela with its stripes of yellow, blue, and red. But did you know the flag was first flown not in Venezuela but in the Haitian coastal city of Jacmel?  More precisely, on March 12th, 1806. The flag was designed in Jacmel by General Francisco de Miranda, a Venezuelan who began the struggle for the liberation of Venezuela, Ecuador, and Colombia. This struggle was taken up by Simon Bolivar with the help of then-Haitian president Alexandre Pétion.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published October 2022.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Haitian Cuisine: A Culinary Map of Haiti

haitian girl smahing breadfruit with a big mortar in courtyard
Girl smashing beadfruit with a pilon for tonmtonm
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Haitian Cuisine: A Culinary Map of Haiti

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A culinary map of Haitian food

Come with us on a lip-smacking journey around one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean as we map out the most recognizable landmarks of manje peyi – “country food”, or Haitian cuisine.

Famous for its Caribbean climate, thriving art scene and positive outlook, this little country is certainly not being let down by its food culture. Created by centuries of cultural syncretism, Haitian creole cuisine is a blend of native Caribbean, African and French Colonial cooking styles, with a spicy dash of Spanish influence from the east of the island (and thanks to how well habanero peppers grow here!).

Many “classic” Haitian recipes crystallized early on in Haiti’s republican history, and have survived the test of time, but Haitians pride themselves on innovation, and Haitian food is no exception.

table with a bowl of haitian akasan, bread, cashew nuts, star anis and glass of water
A bowl of akasan
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Start at the beginning

Breakfast in Haiti begins with akasan, a thick, corn-based porridge served with sugar, cinnamon, and coconut milk. Over the years, ingredients like cow’s milk as well as vanilla and almond extracts have been introduced to it, too. The name akasan is part of the language heritage left to us by the indigenous inhabitants of Hispaniola – specifically a tribe called the Arawak, who made up the majority on the island at the time of Hispaniola’s colonization.

The Arawak also left us with the recipe for kasav. Comparable to a galette, kasav is made of cassava, and usually enjoyed with either peanut butter or avocado. Some people innovate and eat their kasav with an omelet or with cheese.

table with haitian coffee, cassava, fruits and peanut butter
Haitian breakfast with kasav
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Today, each department has its own culinary specialty. Coastal cities like Jacmel, Les Cayes and Port-Salut are well known for dishes featuring fresh fish – fried, boiled, grilled, or in a sauce, alongside rice, plantains, or other root vegetables like yam, taro, or sweet potatoes.

Grand’Anse

The department of Grand’Anse, whose capital is Jérémie, is famous for its tonmtonm; a dish originally from Africa, imported to the Caribbean via the slave trade. Tonmtonm is a preparation of pounded breadfruit served with a gonbo sauce — made with okra — usually eaten with the hands. Tradition dictates that the tonmtonm be swallowed without chewing to really appreciate all its flavors.

Grand’Anse is also the home of konparèt: thick, hearty, sweet biscuits made with flour, sugar, and milk, with delicious flavors. It can be eaten as an appetizer, but be careful not to overdo it; it is quite filling.

two plates with mashed breadfruit and haitian tonmtonm
Haitian tonmtonm
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Ouest

The city of Petit-Goâve is noted for its dous makòs; a very sweet milk-based fudge that melts slowly on the tongue. If you stop by Petit-Goâve, a good size piece of dous makòs will make for a great dessert after a plate of freshly-cooked seafood.

Nord

On the other side of the island, up north, everyone agrees that the city of Cap-Haïtien is well-furnished in talented cooks. Hoping to capitalise on this reputation, new restaurants pop up in the city fairly often, meaning there’s always something new to try (and new entrepreneurs to support) for return visitors.

Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Artibonite

Artibonite, just southwest of the Nord department, is Haiti’s HQ for rice and lalo, a stew originating in Africa. Also called Egyptian spinach and West African sorrel, lalo is the local name for jute. In the US and Europe, jute might be better known as a source of rope fibre, but here in Haiti (and across most of Africa and Asia) this multitalented plant is more widely used in cooking.

To make lalo, fresh, bright jute leaves are picked off of the plant and stewed with spinach, onions, peppers, and garlic as well as creole-seasoned cuts of fish or meat. Setting itself apart from lalo dishes available throughout the Artibonite province – and making it especially worth stopping to try – lalo in Montrouis is made with freshly caught sea crabs.

two plates with haitian lalo and rice
Haitian lalo with rice
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

And wherever you go, you’ll find…

Sweet potatoes and corn.

Sweet potatoes feature in several classic Haitian recipes, such as patat ak lèt (potato with milk), made by boiling the potato first, peeling it, then pouring sweet milk onto it, with just a touch of salt, to bring out its natural flavors.

Corn is eaten all over the country as part of many meals. In its most basic form, this staple appears as hot, creamy polenta — called mayi moulen in Haiti. Corn can also be boiled (what a pleasure it is to bite into a juicy corn cob, flavored with the sauce it was boiled in!). It’s the main ingredient in konsonmen, a stew of corn, rice, beans, and other delicious ingredients. Corn also features in tchaka; a thick and rich stew featuring corn, meat (lots of meat) mixed with vegetables and bean purée. You’ll also find corn smoked, and in pèt-pèt. Pèt-pèt is actually just popcorn, but we have to mention this because its Haitian name is just such a joy to say!

Take a culinary trip around Haiti!

A map of Haiti cannot be drawn with just hills and valleys, mountains and beach fronts. Instead of relying solely on a physical itinerary, how about using your current — or next trip — as a way to get to know Haiti through its different flavors? Bold, but always balanced, Haitian cuisine is as varied and nuanced as the people of the island.


Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2022


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Quiz – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

handpainted haitian boardgame with soccer players
Haitian board game in Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Test Your Knowledge – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

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Ever been to Haiti? Yes, no, maybe so? Regardless, we hope you find this quiz fun and informative. If you’re a new visitor, hopefully this quiz will inspire you to experience Haiti up close! Let’s test your knowledge on the ins and outs with these 18 cultural facts about Haiti.


Let’s test your knowledge on these cultural facts about Haiti

How did it go? If you’re feeling brave like Toussaint Louverture our “How Haitian are you?” Quiz is just right for you! If you want to access your inner Captain Morgan try our “Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?” Quiz!


Created by Zachary Warr.

Published December 2021.


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