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Haitian Cuisine: A Culinary Map of Haiti

haitian girl smahing breadfruit with a big mortar in courtyard
Girl smashing beadfruit with a pilon for tonmtonm
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Haitian Cuisine: A Culinary Map of Haiti

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A culinary map of Haitian food

Come with us on a lip-smacking journey around one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean as we map out the most recognizable landmarks of manje peyi – “country food”, or Haitian cuisine.

Famous for its Caribbean climate, thriving art scene and positive outlook, this little country is certainly not being let down by its food culture. Created by centuries of cultural syncretism, Haitian creole cuisine is a blend of native Caribbean, African and French Colonial cooking styles, with a spicy dash of Spanish influence from the east of the island (and thanks to how well habanero peppers grow here!).

Many “classic” Haitian recipes crystallized early on in Haiti’s republican history, and have survived the test of time, but Haitians pride themselves on innovation, and Haitian food is no exception.

table with a bowl of haitian akasan, bread, cashew nuts, star anis and glass of water
A bowl of akasan
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Start at the beginning

Breakfast in Haiti begins with akasan, a thick, corn-based porridge served with sugar, cinnamon, and coconut milk. Over the years, ingredients like cow’s milk as well as vanilla and almond extracts have been introduced to it, too. The name akasan is part of the language heritage left to us by the indigenous inhabitants of Hispaniola – specifically a tribe called the Arawak, who made up the majority on the island at the time of Hispaniola’s colonization.

The Arawak also left us with the recipe for kasav. Comparable to a galette, kasav is made of cassava, and usually enjoyed with either peanut butter or avocado. Some people innovate and eat their kasav with an omelet or with cheese.

table with haitian coffee, cassava, fruits and peanut butter
Haitian breakfast with kasav
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Today, each department has its own culinary specialty. Coastal cities like Jacmel, Les Cayes and Port-Salut are well known for dishes featuring fresh fish – fried, boiled, grilled, or in a sauce, alongside rice, plantains, or other root vegetables like yam, taro, or sweet potatoes.

Grand’Anse

The department of Grand’Anse, whose capital is Jérémie, is famous for its tonmtonm; a dish originally from Africa, imported to the Caribbean via the slave trade. Tonmtonm is a preparation of pounded breadfruit served with a gonbo sauce — made with okra — usually eaten with the hands. Tradition dictates that the tonmtonm be swallowed without chewing to really appreciate all its flavors.

Grand’Anse is also the home of konparèt: thick, hearty, sweet biscuits made with flour, sugar, and milk, with delicious flavors. It can be eaten as an appetizer, but be careful not to overdo it; it is quite filling.

two plates with mashed breadfruit and haitian tonmtonm
Haitian tonmtonm
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Ouest

The city of Petit-Goâve is noted for its dous makòs; a very sweet milk-based fudge that melts slowly on the tongue. If you stop by Petit-Goâve, a good size piece of dous makòs will make for a great dessert after a plate of freshly-cooked seafood.

Nord

On the other side of the island, up north, everyone agrees that the city of Cap-Haïtien is well-furnished in talented cooks. Hoping to capitalise on this reputation, new restaurants pop up in the city fairly often, meaning there’s always something new to try (and new entrepreneurs to support) for return visitors.

Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Artibonite

Artibonite, just southwest of the Nord department, is Haiti’s HQ for rice and lalo, a stew originating in Africa. Also called Egyptian spinach and West African sorrel, lalo is the local name for jute. In the US and Europe, jute might be better known as a source of rope fibre, but here in Haiti (and across most of Africa and Asia) this multitalented plant is more widely used in cooking.

To make lalo, fresh, bright jute leaves are picked off of the plant and stewed with spinach, onions, peppers, and garlic as well as creole-seasoned cuts of fish or meat. Setting itself apart from lalo dishes available throughout the Artibonite province – and making it especially worth stopping to try – lalo in Montrouis is made with freshly caught sea crabs.

two plates with haitian lalo and rice
Haitian lalo with rice
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

And wherever you go, you’ll find…

Sweet potatoes and corn.

Sweet potatoes feature in several classic Haitian recipes, such as patat ak lèt (potato with milk), made by boiling the potato first, peeling it, then pouring sweet milk onto it, with just a touch of salt, to bring out its natural flavors.

Corn is eaten all over the country as part of many meals. In its most basic form, this staple appears as hot, creamy polenta — called mayi moulen in Haiti. Corn can also be boiled (what a pleasure it is to bite into a juicy corn cob, flavored with the sauce it was boiled in!). It’s the main ingredient in konsonmen, a stew of corn, rice, beans, and other delicious ingredients. Corn also features in tchaka; a thick and rich stew featuring corn, meat (lots of meat) mixed with vegetables and bean purée. You’ll also find corn smoked, and in pèt-pèt. Pèt-pèt is actually just popcorn, but we have to mention this because its Haitian name is just such a joy to say!

Take a culinary trip around Haiti!

A map of Haiti cannot be drawn with just hills and valleys, mountains and beach fronts. Instead of relying solely on a physical itinerary, how about using your current — or next trip — as a way to get to know Haiti through its different flavors? Bold, but always balanced, Haitian cuisine is as varied and nuanced as the people of the island.


Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2022


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Quiz – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

handpainted haitian boardgame with soccer players
Haitian board game in Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Test Your Knowledge – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

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Ever been to Haiti? Yes, no, maybe so? Regardless, we hope you find this quiz fun and informative. If you’re a new visitor, hopefully this quiz will inspire you to experience Haiti up close! Let’s test your knowledge on the ins and outs with these 18 cultural facts about Haiti.


Let’s test your knowledge on these cultural facts about Haiti

How did it go? If you’re feeling brave like Toussaint Louverture our “How Haitian are you?” Quiz is just right for you! If you want to access your inner Captain Morgan try our “Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?” Quiz!


Created by Zachary Warr.

Published December 2021.


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Meet the Locals: Haitian Actor Jimmy Jean-Louis

haitian actor in black suit with photographers
Jimmy Jean-Louis
Photo: ITAR-TASS News Agency / Alamy Live News

Haitian Actor Jimmy Jean-Louis

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Jimmy Jean Louis is one of the most popular Haitian faces in international cinema. After starting as a dancer, spending time in musical theater, and modeling, he made his debut in Haitian films and soon transferred to the American scene, where he became a pride point for many of his fellow islanders watching him all the way back home.

Currently based in Los Angeles, Jimmy still maintains a deep, strong, and long-standing relationship with Haiti, visiting whenever he can, and cultivating his appreciation— and that of his peers —for all the island has to offer.

We spoke with the star of “Citation,” on Netflix, about his favorite things to do and places to see in Haiti.

haitian actor in front of oversized golden oscar statuette
Jimmy Jean-Louis
Photo: ITAR-TASS News Agency / Alamy Live News

When you take a trip to come to Haiti, where do you usually stay? In the capital or your hometown?

I try to do both because I grew up in Pétion-Ville — even though I am from Bainet — so I try to spend some time there, but I also try to make time to go to Jacmel. I really do enjoy Jacmel, more precisely, Kabik, and if I’m in Haiti for a long time, I can try to visit more places in the South, whether it’s Les Cayes— you know, all that part, but really, for me, it’s about Pétion-Ville and Jacmel.

If you were to visit Haiti with a friend who had never been before, and stay in Port-au-Prince for a couple of days, can you guide us through a few things you think your friend should absolutely see or do while they are there?

I’d definitely try to get there on a Thursday just to hit them hard with the RAM night, at Hotel Oloffson. So, after that, definitely take a nice drive throughout the city, because I think it’s so rich in color and life, it’s a must-do; take a ride up in the mountains, maybe have some food at the restaurant, L’Observatoire.

Definitely take a drive all the way to Kenscoff. I would probably stop for a drink, maybe by Hotel El Rancho, just to show them that side of Haiti, as well as stopping by one of the street vendors to buy something local, too. Maybe some griyo!

And if you were to guide them for a 2—3 day weekend in a province city of your choice, where would you take them and what would you do?

You know what, I would probably drive down to Ile a Vache, to Les Cayes. Spend one night at Ile a Vache. Then take them to Port Salut for the beach, and maybe, if I have time, go to Grottes Marie-Jeanne, because I think it’s spectacular.

On the way back from all that, I’d definitely take them to Jacmel for one day as well; so go through the streets of Jacmel, see the artisans, and have a good day at the beach, whether Timouyaj, Kabik, or Raymond-les-Bains.

Do you have a favorite beach?

Kabik in Cayes-Jacmel. But then again, you know, it depends on the time of the year. When the water is clear in Kabik, it’s wonderful. You can also have some food at that restaurant, just on the water, it’s a nice spot.

Do you have a favorite place in Port-au-Prince where you like to go for food?

That’s hard; it’s not necessarily for food. For example, the Oloffson Hotel is a good place once it’s happening, because I think it’s a good mix of all kinds of people, and it’s a good representation of the Haitian culture, right there, in one spot. Whether you are part of the bourgeoisie, a wealthy person, poor, you can find a place at the Oloffson. I like that about it.

Is there a specific time of year you prefer to come to Haiti?

The time between the end of one year and the beginning of another has the most pleasant climate; it’s less hot, you know? But otherwise, I don’t really have a preference; it’s true that July and August can be a little bit too hot, most of the time, but really, I don’t mind because I like Haiti in all seasons.

If you could give some recommendations to people who have not yet visited Haiti, or who have been here once but would like to come back, what would you tell them?

If the person isn’t at ease in the country, it’s going to be a little more delicate. I would recommend them to find someone they can trust, and follow the guidance of that person.

I go there and I get one of my cousins to be with me. It’s just to have a presence. And then from that presence, you can pretty much go anywhere because that person who is in Haiti knows how Haiti functions, so I just trust them.

I would highly recommend the North as well— meaning going to Cap-Haïtien, taking a day to go to La Citadelle, taking a day to go to Ile a Rat, or Labadie. You could also spend quite a nice weekend doing that, because you have all the historical locations and monuments that are in Cap-Haïtien.

The sights in the North are slightly different from other parts, and if I had to hit a restaurant in Cap-Haïtien, of course, it would be Lakay Restaurant. What’s nice with the North as well is that you have direct flights from outside of Haiti, which eases the transition.

If you could influence people’s idea of Haiti, what would you like to tell them?

To tell you the truth, there is something people always say when they speak about Haiti and it’s the expression that it’s the “Pearl of the Caribbean.” I love using that expression because what once was the Pearl of the Caribbean can become it once more; it all depends on how we approach the country. How do you get people to understand that what was, still is? What has been will always be, regardless of what is happening right now.

Haiti is still the only country and the first country that fought for and won its independence; meaning that it is the first Black republic in the Western hemisphere. That is extremely important, and nobody can ever take that away from Haiti. So that’s a good point of reference, if anyone wants to know about Haiti. They have to start there.

man laying in a hammock by the ocean
Jimmy Jean-Louis in a hammock on the beach in Kabik, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Jimmy Jean-Louis

Interview by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2021


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

dramatic haitian coastline with jungle forest and speed boat
Anse Baguette beach near Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Experience Haiti Virtually from Your Home

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If you’re anything like us, the need for you to connect or even be in Haiti at this moment in time has been stronger than ever before. The last sixteen months have proven to be challenging in ways both familiar and new, and have pushed us to adapt in ways we never would’ve thought possible. As Haiti weathers the storms of the ongoing pandemic, sociopolitical unrest, and the assassination of former president Jovenel Moïse, the feeling of longing for Haiti—and in a way, for those on the island who make us feel like we’re home—is hard to fight off.

Since July 7, Haiti has felt like a liminal space where no one is quite sure where to stand or how to behave. The news of Jovenel Moïse’s assassination shook the capital as hard as it did the surrounding cities and far-away provinces. In the days following the killing, the streets of Port-au-Prince were quieter than they usually are on Sundays; worry and anticipation tainted the air, and people hesitated to venture outside for fear of what would happen next. Even though in the days since, things seem to have regained some kind of normalcy, it is very clear to everyone in Haiti that there is no going “back to normal” at the moment.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings
Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

This leaves people like us—and people like you, too, who are enamored with Haiti, and who want nothing but to run and embrace the island—lost and confused. If the pandemic wasn’t a good time to travel to Haiti for just any reason, the recent events are even more reason to rethink purchasing a plane ticket. Just like you may be anxious to fly in for your summer vacation, we are anxious to recommend that you do so.

What we feel comfortable and eager doing, though, is recommending that you visit Haiti from home.

Right here, on Visit Haiti.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat
Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Cook Your Way Through the Island

One of our favorite things about Haiti is how accessible the country’s history and culture is through its cuisine. A lot of Haitian fruit is accessible in foreign markets, like the unmistakable Haitian mango; consider shopping at your local Caribbean shop for some of our favorite summer flavors. This is also the perfect opportunity to order some of the best rum Haiti has to offer and consider a home tasting. We love how these rums shine next to Haiti’s hall-of-fame dishes, too.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti
Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Bring the Outside Inside

If you’re a lover of nature, you might enjoy trying to spot some of Haiti’s wildlife in your neighborhood on the weekend. You’ll be pleased to know that Haiti is home to some really awesome forests, such as Forêt des Pins, too— which you’ll definitely want to put down on your list of places to see on your next trip. We have good news for avid birdwatchers, too: you can probably spot some of Haiti’s winged wildlife where you live.

A woman wearing a bikini relaxes in a window holding a book
Book reading in Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

Learn the Colors of Haiti’s Culture

Now is also a good time to read up on the richness of Haitian heritage and culture, which is sure to taint every step you take around the island as soon as you’re able to travel to Haiti again. We highly recommend checking out what to do at a vodou ceremony, or where to meet and buy from Haiti’s finest metal-workers. And until you can safely make it to the island, our How Haitian Are You quiz and Best books about Haiti Reading List are a good way to make sure you stay on your toes by the time your next trip comes around.

aerial view of coastal village with market area and boats
Sun rising over the port of Marigot
Photo: Franck Fontain

Visit Haiti, Right From Your Screen

One of the ways we are excited to help you visit Haiti from the comfort of your home is through our photo journals. Tag along on a visual and virtual tour of the island. Our photo journals come courtesy of Haitian photographers, and feature different regions all over the country. Right now, you can take a mini-trip to Saint-MarcGrand’Anse, or even Marigot.

portrait photo of young stylish haitian girl with long dreadlocks and red head scarf
Ann-Sophie in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Ted Olivier Mompérousse

Meet Haiti, Meet the Locals

In another effort to bring you closer to Haiti and its resilient, inspiring, and bright people, we are also pumped to introduce you to our Meet the Locals series. It’s no secret that Haiti and Haitians carry a bold streak; it shows in the food, and it shows in the music. What we want to share is how each individual Haitian contributes to painting the colorful picture that is Haiti today. You can start here, by reading our interview with Ann-Sophie Hamilton, a sustainable tourism advocate.

And watch our video where we speak to Isaac, a painter from Dame-Marie.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2021


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Haitian Vodou Revealed

vodou priestess kneeling on floor in a huge and colorful dress
Vodou priestess Manbo Nini, Jacmel
Photo: Verdy Verna

Haitian Vodou Revealed

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Vodou originated in the African kingdoms of Fon and Kongo as many as 6,000 years ago. In modern Haiti, this spiritual practice is a creolized version that incorporates Amerindian Taíno and Arawak deities, Medieval Catholic influences, and even Masonic rituals!

By and large, people associate Vodou* with evil, devil worship, and violent animal sacrifice. But many of its rituals (even those that include the sacrifice of live animals) focus on restoring peace and balance – in families, communities, and between the human realm and the realms of the lwa – the spirits.

Vodou religious leaders are respected figures in their communities, providing guidance, settling disputes, and providing medical care in the form of herbal healing. Priests – oungan – and priestesses – manbo – dedicate their lives to helping others and assisting them in serving their lwa. People who practice Vodou are known as vodouwizan, vodouisants (French), or in Haitian Kreyòl, sèvitè – “servants of the spirits”.

As Haitian nationals and the Haitian diaspora in Canada, the United States, and France become more open about their practice of Vodou, the truth about this enigmatic spiritual practice is slowly being revealed to the world. This is a story of how a spiritual tradition designed to heal and maintain balance was caught up in a case of mistaken identity, from which it is still recovering today.

haitian vodou practitioners in dimly lit cave with candles
Vodouwizans with candles
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Devil-worship or disinformation?

A 2011-12 exhibit at the Canadian Museum of Civilization suggests that Vodou was the target of a cultural disinformation campaign. Between 1915 and 1934, the United States Marine Corps occupied Haiti. During the occupation, Haiti became the backdrop for books and movies depicting Vodou as cruel, sinister, and bloody. Tracing media depictions of Haitian Vodou over time, the museum showed how anti-Vodou propaganda was deliberately spread to discredit anti-occupation forces. Movies like White Zombie, released in 1932, portrayed Vodou priests and others who resisted foreign occupation as bloodthirsty, deceptive, and downright evil.

Test your knowledge of Vodou

Now that we’ve set the record straight, it’s time to test your knowledge of this mysterious religion.

hanpainted exterior wall of vodou temple
Vodou peristyle
Photo: Emily Bauman / Amanacer

1. True or false: there are separate branches of Vodou.

Answer: True!

Vodou lwa are divided into several branches or “nations”: the most prominent are Petwo and Rada.

Since there are more than two branches of lwa, it’s difficult to define Petwo and Rada purely in opposition to each other, but they are certainly starkly different.

Some anthropologists have described the Rada as benevolent and the Petwo as malevolent, or the Rada as representing ‘insider’ forces while the Petwo represent ‘outsider’ forces.

Rada lwa, according to anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown, are generally gentle, kind and mostly concerned with supporting the wellbeing of their adherents. Petwo lwa, on the other hand, are hot-tempered, even explosive – the rituals that call Petwo lwa involve intense drumming, whip-cracks, gasoline and even ignited gunpowder. Some anthropologists believe the Petwo lwa are indigenous to Haiti, not imported from Africa – generated either as creolizations of native Taíno or Arawak deities, or born out of the need to survive the harsh conditions and trauma that the enslaved vodouwizan had to endure.

We can illustrate this dichotomy with the two rival lwa, Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò. Two aspects of the same female deity, Erzulie Freda is a Rada lwa, and Erzulie Dantò is a Petwo lwa. In the same way that a diamond has hundreds of facets, a Vodou spirit or lwa has seemingly unlimited sides. Practitioners understand that if the entire lwa – in its full power – were to manifest itself, it would be overpowering, so they choose to invoke only one facet at a time.

Erzulie Freda and Erzulie Dantò are each part of a whole, but are depicted in traditional Haitian folklore as starkly different. Erzulie Freda is depicted as a fair-skinned bourgeois city woman who enjoys wealth, luxury, and the finer things in life like perfumes, jewelry, and flowers. Her counterpart, Dantò, a fierce defender of children, women, and society’s rejects, is dark-skinned and proudly wears two distinct scars on her face. Whereas Freda might respond to a crisis by crying, Dantò responds by becoming enraged.

The vèvè Vodou symbol for each version of Erzulie contains a heart, but each is distinct. Erzulie Dantò’s cosmogram features a sword through a heart, indicating her power to enact vengeance, protect children, and fulfill the fiery side of love on behalf of the lwa.

Whether you attend a ceremony held for Erzulie Freda or Erzulie Dantò is as different as going to a gentle Quaker gathering for collective consciousness unity, or a Pentecostal prayer meeting calling on the Holy Spirit for vigorous and fiery healing.

man lighting candles in a lavishly pink decorated room for vodou ceremony
Ceremony for Erzulie Freda
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

2. True or false: Vodou is all sinister sorcery and black magic.

Answer: False!

There are two satellites of Vodou one might call secret societies. The dark practices of these secret societies were mistakenly called Voodoo by American officials in the early 1900s, causing confusion that persists to this day.

These two secret societies are Makaya and Bizango. They are what one may more accurately consider dark magic or sorcery; their practitioners use curses and incantations designed to cause harm. As opposed to Petwo and Rada Vodou, whose goals are to support and guide life, Makaya and Bizango employ practices harnessed against life.

How did these secret societies arrive in Haiti? It is said that Bizango started as a blend of West-African Bo and European necromancy brought to Hispaniola by colonizers. The story goes that African slaves brought to work sugar plantations were witness to their masters’ dark rituals on the plantations. This is when European knowledge would have been acquired, then combined with rituals from Africa to form a new syncretic practice.

Makaya, on the other hand, is believed to be a merging of Amerindian shapeshifting and other ritual secrets with the imported West-African Bo. The native inhabitants of the island were reputed to know the art of shapeshifting and of poisons, with rituals and practices designed to harm or protect individuals and communities.

Makaya places a stronger emphasis on shifting one’s corporeal form, and its lore includes stories of teleporting from one side of the island to another through secret portals revealed to the marooned slaves by the native Taíno. Some say that this is how revolutionaries were able to travel swiftly across the island and confound colonial armies.

When the US military occupation began in 1915, Western filmmakers exploited rumours about the darkest practices of Bizango and Makaya “voodoo” and through these caricatures, whether deliberately or not, vilified the country’s spiritual tradition.

In reality, love spells, curses, and rituals of revenge fall outside the realm of Vodou altogether. Curses, spells – and zombies – are instead the specialty of Bo in West-Africa and Bizango or Makaya in Haiti. In U.S. Vodou practice, they are categorized as “hoodoo” and should not be conflated with Vodou.

So if it’s not black magic, what is maji in Vodou?

When life gets chaotic and out of our control, westerners turn to psychologists, and Haitian vodouwizan turn to oungan and manbo. Everywhere on earth, for people of every faith, race and class, life can suddenly be thrown out of balance by sickness, professional failure, financial loss, family crisis or community conflict. At such times, vodouwizan ask the lwa to intervene and help the person in distress. This intervention is maji.

Practitioners of maji perform treatments to heal or protect those who consult them. In a dedicated room called a badji, the practitioner uses ritual to call in a lwa whose intervention is most appropriate for the given situation. The lwa may speak to the practitioner, or through the practitioner, possessing the practitioner’s body to investigate the situation for itself. The lwa decides on the appropriate course of action required to restore balance and shares this valuable information through the manbo or oungan.

woman making a cross with two knives on a straw hat
Ritual being performed at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

3. True or false: voodoo dolls are real

Answer: True AND False

During the American occupation, books and films aimed at the general public propagated many of the fictions that continue to degrade Vodou by associating it with evil sorcery. One of the strongest fictions is the image of a voodoo doll pricked with pins to cause injury or suffering to an enemy.

Pricked with pins and full of evil powers, the primitive cloth doll has become the image most often associated with Vodou in the world’s collective imagination. This has nothing, however, to do with the real spiritual practice in Haiti.

In reality, dolls are occasionally used in the practice of Haitian Vodou, but not to cast spells! Placed near graves or hung from the branches of Kapok trees, these dolls convey messages sent by vodouwizan to the dead or to ancestors.

4. True or false: zombies are real

Answer: True!

Forget what you think you know about zombies. While Haitian zombies may not match their typical portrayal in popular media, they hold a very real place in the country’s cultural beliefs. There’s so much to explore about zombie fact and fiction that we’ve dedicated a separate article to it.

Learn all about Haitian zombies here.

haitian vodou practitioners with head scarfs during ceremony
Women at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. True or false: vodou and Christianity first merged in the new world.


Answer: False!

Many of the slaves brought to Hispaniola from northern and central Africa between the 16th and 18th centuries practiced the African form of Vodou. Since the colony’s slave code required all slaves to convert to Christianity, Vodou dances were strictly forbidden, and slaves could not observe their religion openly. They found themselves borrowing many elements from Catholicism to disguise and thus maintain their spiritual practice.

Lwa were assigned the faces of corresponding Saints. For example, Saint Peter holds the keys to the kingdom of heaven and corresponds to Papa Legba, who in Vodou is the gatekeeper to the spirit world. This process, known as syncretization, is why visitors to Haiti can see paintings for sale of a figure who appears to be Mary Mother of Jesus with black skin, and not know that they are really looking at a portrayal of Erzulie Dantò.

What is even less known is that this syncretization began hundreds of years earlier, before the first captured slave was ever sold on Haiti’s shores.

Long before Christopher Columbus docked on the island of Hispaniola, Portuguese monks visited the kingdom of Kongo, from where much of Haitian Vodou originates. These early Christian missionaries arrived in the capital after a long journey, appearing before the Kongo chief and his queen. They wore the plain beige robes of the medieval Jesuit priesthood.

The priests brought with them ornate golden crosses and, with permission, set up shop as missionaries do. They began to learn the local language, communicated as best they could, and shared stories about the Christian Holy Trinity, the resurrection story of Jesus, and the work of the Holy Spirit. In historical letters written to Portugal’s king and queen, the missionaries recount how the Kongo high court was fascinated with the Jesuit’s religion and adopted certain stories into their own belief systems.

The cross and the story of Jesus’s death and resurrection was integrated into the system of traditional Vodou lwa spirits and ancestor worship in the Kongo, which was then taken to Haiti by 16th-century African slaves. The Christian cross became a symbol for the crossroads, which represents life-altering choices and steps along the spiritual path for followers of Vodou in both its African and Haitian expressions to this day.

man carrying decorated cross during vodou ceremony
Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

6. True or false: it’s dangerous to attend a Vodou ceremony because you’ll get possessed.

Answer: False!

One of non-initiates’ greatest fears when it comes to Vodou is being possessed by spirits against their will. While possession does take place at Vodou ceremonies, there is little danger that a spectator will be spontaneously “ridden” by the lwa.

For a vodouwizan, being possessed is like momentarily disappearing in order to become the physical vessel for a lwa. The actions and words of the possessed are believed to be the loa expressing itself, addressing others, advising or consoling, encouraging or scolding, punishing or healing through the Vodouwizan.

For practitioners of Vodou, there is nothing strange or special about possession. It can happen at any moment, and can last anywhere from a few minutes to hours or even days.

If this sounds scary, it’s helpful to remember that an immense amount of training, initiation, not to mention financial resources and sacred planning go into holding a Vodou ceremony. People are looking for answers to real problems around financial ruin, broken relationships, and discord. Each ceremony is held with a specific purpose or intention, and it would not be accomplished if the possessed chwal (or “horse”) wasn’t up to the task of the full participation required of their role.

For the same reason, it is exceedingly unlikely that a spectator at a Vodou dans (ceremony) would spontaneously be possessed. In fact, it is extremely rare for a non-initiate to be invited to participate in a major way in an important Vodou ceremony.

Experience Vodou on your visit to Haiti

Further reading 

For an accessible, illuminating read about Vodou, see Boukman Eksperyans songstress Mimirose Beaubrun’s Nan Domi – An initiate’s journey into Haitian Vodou.  Available in French and English.

For more about the vèvè cosmograms representing the lwa, see the fantastic illustrations and explanations found in a trilingual book by Milo Regaud, Ve-Ve Diagrammes Rituels du Voudou : Ritual Voodoo Diagrams : Blasones de los Vodu – Trilingual ed.Text in French, English, and Spanish.

Mama Lola: A Vodou Priestess in Brooklyn by anthropologist Karen McCarthy Brown. Released in 1991, this book is credited with making great strides toward the destigmatisation of Haitian Vodou.

Afro-Caribbean Religions: An Introduction to Their Historical, Cultural, and Sacred Traditions, by Nathaniel Samuel Murrell. Includes 40 pages on Haitian Vodou.

*A quick word about the different spellings of Vodou: some scholars still use the spelling “voodoo;” however, Haitian Vodou initiates and supportive academics prefer alternate spellings such as Vodou, Vodon, Vodun or Vodu.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published June 2021


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15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

a plate of haitian food
Fritay at 5 Coins, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

15 Creole Feasts That Will Make You Want to Visit Haiti

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Haiti is a land of bold flavours, bright colours, intoxicating music, mischievous spirits and a heady mix of cultures. Haitian creole cuisine is built on fresh seafood, island-grown greens and exotic fruits, all full of West Indies spices and an often surprising mix of elements both familiar and strange.

The fast-service restaurant concept hasn’t yet washed ashore in Haiti, so be ready to lean into the luxury that is island time: even in the capital city, everything has an unhurried, unpretentious atmosphere. Sipping rum sours in a palm-fringed patio or lounging around in an airy, high-ceilinged colonial dining room while you wait is a great way to sink into the Caribbean vibes.

Here is our ultimate guide on where to find the best Haitian eats for every taste:

a plate of haitian food
Fritay at 5 Coins, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

1. Fritay at 5 Coins

The cornerstone of Haitian cuisine, fritay is the best place to start your Haitian food journey. 5 Coins is one of the most well-known names in the business, with five kitchens throughout metropolitan Port-au-Prince. They offer all the classic fritay dishes: bannann peze (fried plantains), griyo (fried pork), akra (malanga fritters), lam fri (fried breadfruit) and fried chicken – all supplemented with Caribbean staples – rice and peas – or specialty sides.

plate with grilled fish, fried plantains, fries and salat
Grilled Fish at Le Coin des Artiste – Vivano, Petion-Ville
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

2. Fish at Le Coin des Artistes – Vivano

Seafood straight from the surf is unbeatable. For the best fresh fish in Port-au-Prince, drop into Le Coin des Artistes — Vivano. Because their fish is always sustainably caught on their own restaurant-owned properties, your meal is supporting best-practice fishing in Haiti. You can ask for your fish to be either pwason griye (grilled) or an sòs (stewed).

plate with conch gratine and slices of bread
Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

3. Gratine lanbi at Gingerbread Restaurant

Head downtown to the Pacot district for the treasure that is Gingerbread Restaurant. Their gratine lanbi (conch gratinée) alone is worth the trip. Locally known as lambi, conch is a mollusc native to the waters of the Bahamas but popular throughout the Caribbean islands. A step above the standard lanbi an sòs (stewed conch), this is a Haitian foodie experience to savour. The rich sauce of the gratinée envelops tender bits of conch, rendering them even more flavorful than they are naturally. A real culinary delight!

plate with pizza topped with shrimp, onions and cheese
Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

4. Shrimp pizza at Yanvalou

Interested in what Haitian cuisine can do when it fuzes with food from other countries? Look no further than Yanvalou’s shrimp pizza! A specialty of the house, it’s the perfect cross between the mellow, indulgent feeling you get from enjoying pizza, heightened by the fresh taste of tender bits of shrimp scattered on top. Down a slice along with a rum sour in the leafy patio.

colofull restaurant area with tables and chairs
La Coquille restaurant in Pétion-Ville
Photo: La Coquille

5. Buffet at La Coquille

Come hungry to La Coquille! This popular Pétion-Ville restaurant houses one of the most well-known Haitian cuisine buffets in the capital. Work your way through fried pork, fried chicken, stewed conch, and goat — alongside a selection of rice-centric sides, depending on what is available that day. White rice and black bean sauce, rice and peas, djondjon rice…dessert is included as well!

6. Griyo (fried pork) at Au Bon Griot

A quick drive outside of Pétion-Ville you’ll find Au Bon Griot, one of the best places in the area of Boutilier for griyo (fried pork). While it’s one of those hole-in-the-wall places, it definitely is somewhere worth stopping. Made fresh to order, the griyo comes with a generous helping of fried plantains and pikliz. What better way to enjoy griyo than overlooking the city of Port-au-Prince?

7. Fettucine Djondjon at Karibe Hotel

If you’ve tried djondjon rice, you know this tiny mushroom packs a punch. Native to Haiti, djondjon mushrooms are known for their “exquisite color, taste and aroma.” For a dish that makes the most of this unique ingredient, stop by the restaurant at Karibe Hotel in Juvénat for their specialty – djondjon fettucine! The rich, velvety pasta sauce is made inky black by the exotic djondjon.

8. Soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Kinam Hotel

You’ve read all about it – now treat yourself to a warm and comforting bowl of soup joumou (pumpkin soup) at Pétion-Ville’s Kinam Hotel. Filled with pasta and rustic chunks of carrots, potatoes, and meat, this soup is an already hearty meal, but some people enjoy it with freshly toasted bread, which you can request. Soup Joumou on Sundays is a cultural institution in Haiti, and there’s no better way to kick off your week!

Outside Port-au-Prince?

That’s Port-au-Prince covered, but what about the rest of the country?

hands holding a sandwich with meat
Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Bib (fried pork sandwich) in Kenscoff

Out touring the hills of Thomassin or Fermathe? You’re not far away from the area of Kenscoff, where the specialty of bib is extremely popular. What is a bib? Simply put, it’s a sandwich that features fried pork meat and pikliz (a spicy relish and a crucial in Haitian creole cuisine) in soft, pillowy bread. No formal restaurant here, just a hole-in-the-wall place just past the police department of Kenscoff, but a must-try foodie experience nonetheless!

waiter holder a plate of grilled goat meat with carrots and potatoes
Kabrit griye at Ranch Le Montcel, Kenscoff
Photo: Ranch Le Montcel

10. Kabrit griye (grilled goat) at Le Montcel, Kenscoff

Sustainably-raised meat is more common than you might expect in this island nation. One of the best places to taste the creole dish kabrit griye (grilled goat) is Le Montcel. A sprawling property set into the hills of Kenscoff, Le Montcel is able to grow a lot of its own produce and raise its own animals. This makes for one of the most succulent griyo, which pulls apart wonderfully!

11. Mayi moulen ak fèy (cornmeal and spinach) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

One of the pleasures of waking up in Cap-Haïtien is getting breakfast on the boulevard. We recommend stopping by Boukanye, where you can enjoy a hearty, flavorful breakfast of mayi moulen ak fèy!

While mayi moulen (polenta) is usually eaten as the major part of a midday or evening meal, it is prepared here for breakfast as mayi moulen ak fèy, served with spinach and kipper. Even better with freshly sliced avocado! In season (roughly august-november) avocados are so abundant on Haiti that you can afford to eat them for breakfast every day – and pay off your mortgage too.

12. Poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews) at Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien

Visit pirate-themed bar and grill Boukanye in Cap-Haïtien to try the North Haitian specialty of poul ak nwa (stewed chicken and cashews). Cashews grow around Cap-Haïtien and are used liberally in local cuisine. In this signature northern dish, succulent strips of chicken stirred through a flavorful, savory sauce, and topped with halved cashews. Usually enjoyed with a generous side of white rice, or rice and peas.

13. Lanbi an sòs (stewed conch) at Lakay, Cap-Haïtien

Lakay in Cap-Haïtien is one of the best places to get lunch. If you happen to be in the area, we recommend getting the lanbi an sòs (stewed conch)! The stewed-to-perfection conch melts in your mouth. The house standard is served with rice but you can request fried plantains or fried potatoes to make for an even more robust meal – great if you’ve been out hiking or swimming all morning.

vendor cutting pieces of gingerbread
Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) in Les Cayes
Photo: Franck Fontain

14. Bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread) from Les Cayes

Wander up to the crossroads of Quatre-Chemins in Les Cayes to find the delicacy that is bonbon siwo (Haitian gingerbread). Thick, sweet, and filling, it is the kind of dessert you enjoy with a cup of coffee or tea. It’s like giving your tastebuds a big warm hug.

milk fudge wrapped in plastic
Dous makòs (milk fudge) in Petit-Goâve
Photo: Franck Fontain

15. Dous makòs (milk fudge) from Petit-Goâve

For those who have a curious sweet tooth, the town of Petit-Goâve is the place to go. Here you’ll find dous makòs (milk fudge); a wonderfully decadent tri-color sweet treat. Sugar, milk, condensed milk, and a slew of warming spices like vanilla, nutmeg, and cinnamon come together over high heat, are poured into molds to cool, then sliced into the delicious, rich slabs of dous makòs fudge.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2021


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