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Rhythms and Rituals at Lakou Soukri’s Vodou Festival

Ritual bath at Lakou Soukri Vodou festival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Rhythms and Rituals at Lakou Soukri’s Vodou Festival

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Located deep in Haiti’s Artibonite Department, Lakou Soukri annually emerges as the epicenter of a festival deeply rooted in Vodou culture, renowned for its spiritual significance and sense of community.

Despite its rich traditions, Vodou frequently encounters misunderstandings and stereotypes that veil its authenticity.

What essential truths does Lakou Soukri’s festival reveal about Vodou?

Our visit to the Lakou aimed to uncover the heart of the festival, drawing us into a celebration marked by dance, offerings, and communal spirit. This journey through the festival showcases Vodou steeped in tradition, devotion, and a deep bond with the natural and spiritual realms, transcending widespread misconceptions.

Gathering at the Lakou Soukri Vodou Festival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

What is a lakou?

In the heart of Haitian cultural traditions lies the lakou, more than just a space, it’s a cornerstone of community and spirituality. Long before cities, neighborhoods, and municipalities, there were lakou. This social organization resembles the communal essence of African villages, serving as a nurturing ground for education, devotion, and the preservation of Vodou traditions. Central to each lakou is the poto mitan, a symbolic pillar connecting the community to their ancestors and the spiritual world.

Leadership within a lakou comes from the Houngan (Vodou priest) or Mambo (Vodou priestess), who are not only spiritual guides but also serve as healers and community organizers. Their role is critical in maintaining the social fabric and spiritual health of their community, whether they’re natives or newly initiated members.

One notable lakou, Soukri Danach, stands out for its historical significance and its annual festival that attracts a diverse crowd. This event embodies the communal and spiritual vitality of the lakou, highlighting its role in Haitian society.

The Ancient Echoes of Lakou Soukri Danache

Lakou Soukri Danache is a beacon among Haiti’s spiritual landscapes, heralded as one of three pivotal spiritual sites. Its roots are said to stretch back before Haiti’s own emergence as a nation, entwining with the histories of Lakou Souvenance and Badjo to form a sacred trinity, each guardian to a unique Vodou rite. Soukri, in particular, vibrates with the Congo rite, a living homage to the ancestral traditions of Congolese slaves, in contrast to Souvenance’s alignment with the Dahomey kingdom rites of Benin.

The lore of its inception ties back to Zinzin Figaro, revered as the first to lead the lakou. Soukri’s history is rich with tales of refuge for maroon slaves from Congo, seeking solace and freedom in the heart of Haiti’s struggle for independence.

Sprawling across two and a half hectares, Soukri Danache is a tapestry of dwellings, plantations, and families, thriving on agriculture and livestock yet bound by a profound spiritual legacy. Annually, this lakou calls back its children, those born within and those initiated under its shade, in a pilgrimage that reaffirms the unbroken connection to their spiritual and cultural heritage.

Ritual bath at Lakou Soukri
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Sacred Rituals & Soulful Gatherings

Embraced by the call to return, the children of Lakou Soukri converge to celebrate their rich heritage in a festival that spans over two weeks. During this period, the lakou is brimming with activities that touch the essence of Vodou: from rhythmic dance to solemnity of ceremonies, offerings, and ritual baths.

As dusk settles on August 14th, the sacred grounds of the temple, known as Soba, come alive with anticipation. This night is reserved for Met Kafou, the Vodou loa (meaning Vodou spirit) seen as the custodian of crossroads, a symbol of choices, paths, and the intersections of life and the spiritual realm. The assembled, both initiated and intrigued, are led by figures of spiritual authority through the gates to the temple, engaging in prayers that seek blessings from the loas, reinforcing the bonds of unity and shared existence.

The crescendo arrives the day after, on August 15th, with a grand Vodou ceremony. Adorned in white, symbolizing purity and openness, participants gather at designated sanctuaries within the lakou. The day’s ceremonies begin with prayers, drumming, and ritual sacrifices — roosters by the gate, goats within the Soba, and a bull near an ancient tree known as Palan Ganga, each act deepening the spiritual ambiance.

If you find the idea of animal offerings unsettling, know that for believers, this is a ritual rooted in reciprocity and the maintenance of cosmic balance.

Preparations at Lakou Soukri Vodou Festival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Following these poignant moments, attention shifts to the Basin Inan for a ritual bath honoring the loa Manbo Inan. Surrounded by towering trees, this natural pool witnesses a mesmerizing ceremony of intensive drumming, dancing, and singing, culminating when the loa, believed to dwell in these waters, materializes. The initiated, now in a state of possession, leap frantically into the pool in a display of faith and ecstasy.

This extraordinary scene not only offers a glimpse into the profound spirituality of Vodou but also allows pilgrims to seek blessings by collecting water from this sacred site.

The days that follow are filled with dances and ceremonies at various spirit resting places, each moment deepening the communal and spiritual connections. The festival concludes with a universal salutation to the cardinal points, a final act of unity and reverence, encapsulating the profound journey of return and celebration that is the Lakou Soukri festival.

A break between ceremonies at Vodou Festival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

When to Experience the Magic of Soukri

The enchanting Soukri festival unfolds annually from August 14th until the early days of September. This timeframe, bridging the warm summer and the onset of fall, creates an ideal setting for the night dances and sumptuous feasts characteristic of Vodou celebrations, all while avoiding the season’s heavy rains.

Getting there

The lakou is located a few kilometers north of Gonaïves. The simplest route is to take a tap-tap or a motorcycle taxi from the city, heading towards the locality of Mapou and then continuing towards Soukri. As you approach, remember the profound respect this lakou commands among its keepers, thus, approaching it with mindfulness and respect for its spiritual significance is essential.

Want to make an offering?

To immerse yourself in the festival’s spirit, consider bringing an offering. For specific guidance, an initiate can advise on what’s most appropriate for each ceremony. Commonly, a bottle of Haitian rum serves as a welcome gift. When you present this to the Lakou’s servant for the Loas’ table, it signifies your participation in a tradition of generosity. Witnessing this, you might also experience, as do the initiates and pilgrims, the profound generosity of the loas in return.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published April 2024.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Your Ultimate Guide to Carnival in Haiti

Carnival costumes, Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Your Ultimate Guide to Carnival in Haiti

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Carnival in Haiti is not just a festival, it’s a cultural institution that runs deep in the veins of its people. For Haitians, music is a way of life and during Carnival, it’s like the whole country comes alive in a rainbow of colors, sounds, and rhythms. 

But it’s not just about the party – Carnival is a transformative experience that shakes things up and inspires change. 

So, read on to learn about what makes Carnival in Haiti so special, and who knows, maybe even plan your own trip to join the celebration!

Carnival costumes in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

A brief History of Carnival in Haiti

Let’s start from the beginning; the tradition of the Carnival (or kanaval as it’s written in Haitian Creole) in Haiti started during the colonial period in the bigger cities such as Port-au-PrinceCap-Haïtien, and Jacmel. At that time, the enslaved people were not allowed to participate. Slave owners wanted to deprive the people of as much as possible, particularly things associated with the lifestyle of Haiti’s white, slave-owning elite.

But the enslaved people staged their own mini-carnivals in their backyards and areas. With costumes made of rags and their skin painted with ashes and grease they imitated and ridiculed the slavemasters. This practice gave birth to one of the country’s oldest traditions, that of the Lansèt Kòd. Learn more about this iconic figure of the Haitian collective imagination.

The carnival has evolved over the decades to become a national holiday and Haiti’s most important cultural event. Today the atmosphere can be described as that of massive street parties, but it’s also an open-air showcase of artistic creations and craftsmanship.

Beyond the celebrations, the food, alcohol, and music, the Haitian Carnival also has a political aspect. The festival provides an opportunity for Haitians to express their popular grievances, through the costumes, the lyrics of the meringues and the songs that are played. The lyrics often contain demands and allegories of social life, which are delivered with the rhythm of the music and at full volume. And many costumes and carnival characters are made as satires and comments on current events.

Carnival characters, Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Colorful Costumes and Surprising Characters

If you ever find yourself at Carnival in Haiti (and believe us, you should) the first thing that’ll catch your eye is the stunning costumes worn by the carnival troupes. Made from papier-mâché, these outfits bring to life the country’s flora and fauna with bright colors and intricate designs. You’ll see everything from exotic birds like parrots and toucans to costumes inspired by the island’s colonial past.

But the costumes aren’t the only thing that makes the Haitian Carnival so special. The festival is also home to a wide range of colorful characters, both real and fictional. You might come across a larger-than-life portrayal of Barak Obama and Vladimir Putin or a whimsical depiction of Cholera or COVID-19. And don’t forget the historical figures, like the heroes of Haitian independence and the Taíno Indians, the island’s first inhabitants.

Each costume and character at the Haitian Carnival has a unique story to tell, representing different aspects of the country’s culture, history, and folklore. Looking to dive deeper into the fascinating world of the Haitian Carnival? Check out this visual guide, where we unpack the history and rich meanings behind the colorful costumes from Jacmel Carnival.

Carnival participants dancing, Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Carnival Music, Beats and Rhythms

The music of the Haitian Carnival is a unique blend of European and African influences, creating a sound that is both lively and expressive, composed of percussion, bamboo instruments, trumpets, and accordions. At the heart of the carnival is the Rara, a traditional bann a pye (literally “bands on foot” or marching band) that is closely tied to the practice of Vodou. 

In addition to Rara, the carnival is also influenced by other more modern music genres like the well-known compas, Creole rap, roots music, and raboday, which is a popular music genre that emerged in the mid-2000s. This genre is based on a traditional music style called “Rasin“, which mixes Vodou rhythms with modern pop-rock music. Raboday is often characterized by its energetic beats and heavy use of percussion, and it’s a favorite during carnival season and at dance parties all around Haiti. And last but not least, let’s not forget the meringue – one of the most popular styles of Haitian music you’ll hear during carnival.

Kleren vendor in Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Carnival flavors not to miss

Beignets
A staple of the Haitian kanaval tradition, beignets are a must-try delicacy during the carnival season in Haiti. Unlike traditional beignets, which are usually puffed fried batter, Haitian beignets are flat and made with bananas. 

These delicious small treats have a similar appearance to mini crêpes but with a crunchy texture and are sprinkled with a generous amount of sugar. Don’t miss out on the chance to taste these sweet treats, as they are not commonly found outside of the carnival season.

Kleren
Another local flavor to try during carnival is “trampe” – a variety of the locally produced moonshine known as kleren (or clairin for French and English speakers). This type of artisanal rhum has a centuries-old tradition in Haiti and is an important part of the country’s culture. Trampe refers to kleren that has been macerated for weeks or even months with local fruits and spices, resulting in unique and flavorful blends.

During the carnival, you’ll find street vendors offering big jugs of kleren with various flavors and promises of health benefits and aphrodisiac properties. There are plenty of popular local trampe flavors to choose from, such as Kenep, which has a subtle sweetness from the Haitian fruit also known as quenepe or limoncello.

Bwa kochon is another popular flavor, infused with bark, wood, and leaves for an extra strong and earthy taste. Grenadya is a tangy and sweet flavor made with passion fruits, while Lanni is a sweet trampe infused with cinnamon, star anise, or fennel.

Carnival goers in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

When is Carnival in Haiti

Carnival in Haiti is not a one-day event, as you might know it from other countries. In fact, it spans from January to the big parade during the Trois Jours Gras (three fat days) in February or March. Throughout the season, there are festivities and celebrations held every Sunday in many of the major cities in Haiti.

Whether you’re an art enthusiast, or maybe just want to party it up, there are several destinations you can choose from to experience it all.

Where to Experience the Haitian Kanaval

Jacmel
Jacmel’s carnival is a must-see for art lovers, with its out-of-this-world paper-mâché masks and glorious costumes crafted by local artisans and artists. The carnival of this sleepy coastal town is considered one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean due to the creativity and magnificence of its artistic displays. During the carnival season, Jacmel hosts several events and activities, leading up to the three-day celebration of Trois Jours Gras.

Want to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival? Read this first!

Port-au-Prince
The Carnival in Port-au-Prince is the most popular in Haiti, attracting a large crowd of festivalgoers who come to enjoy the explosive atmosphere of music and dancing. The parade features artistic creations, marching bands, and large floats, but the real highlight is the musical groups that parade at Champ de Mars, the city’s largest public square. Here, the most famous Haitian bands and artists compete to see who will have the best carnival slogan, float, or song.

Cap-Haïtien
If you’re looking for a more peaceful carnival experience, Cap-Haïtien is a great choice. The parade takes place every year on the ocean-side Boulevard du Cap-Haïtien, which is also home to some of the city’s best restaurants. The Carnival in Cap-Haïtien is known for its orderliness and calm atmosphere, making it a great option for families and those who prefer a more relaxed celebration.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published April 2023.


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Meet the Colorful Characters From the Jacmel Carnival

Papier-mâché carnival figures
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Meet the Colorful Characters From the Jacmel Carnival

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Are you ready for a carnival like no other? One where mythical creatures, rich history, and vibrant costumes collide in a festive spectacle? Then pack your bags and head to Jacmel on Haiti’s south coast, where the city’s renowned carnival awaits.

For many Haitians, the phrase “Lage m pou m al nan kanaval” (I am ready to go to the carnival) rings a familiar tune, as it’s taken from a popular carnival meringue song. But the Jacmel carnival is not your average Mardi Gras. It’s a celebration of Haitian culture and society, expressed through a parade of colorful outfits and mesmerizing paper mache masks.

Body paint at Jacmel Carnival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The city of Jacmel, known as Haiti’s cultural capital, boasts a rich artistic tradition, particularly in paper mache. And the carnival is a testament to this, as it showcases mythical figures from Haiti’s collective imagination, such as the ChaloskaLanset Kod, and Yawe. But the cast of characters and carnival costumes is ever-changing, incorporating figures inspired by the Vodou pantheon, current events, and notable individuals, making each edition a unique and lively critique of the history of Haiti.

Join us as we delve into the fascinating world of Jacmel’s carnival, where the characters and traditions that define Haiti’s rich history are celebrated in the most original and joyous way possible.

Are you ready? Let’s go!

Chaloska carnival costume
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

One-of-a-kind Chaloska

The Jacmel Carnival parade features some of the most intriguing characters and among them are groups of tall, young men dressed in tailcoats and tall top hats. These are the representations of General Charles Oscar Etienne, who was infamous for his cruelty in Port-au-Prince and Jacmel. The general gained notoriety for his acts of violence against political prisoners who opposed the government of President Vilbrun Guillaume Sam.

After the assassination of the president and his devoted general by an angry crowd in 1915, the carnival of Jacmel created the Chaloska character to mock the former general’s striking features, such as his height and prominent teeth. The costume, complete with epaulets, a cap, and an exaggerated set of teeth, serves as a colorful satire of the infamous general.

Papier-mâché carnival figures
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Carnival Flora & Fauna

Imagine you’re sitting at one of the many Haitian carnival stands, and suddenly you see a giant crocodile head sticking up over the crowd in the parade, a little further on a hibiscus flower appears, you see a rooster that’s your size and dragons, lots of dragons

The carnival parade can transport you into surreal universes when you least expect it. With large masks and costumes depicting trees, tropical fruits, colorful flowers, and animals, the Jacmel carnival celebrates Haiti’s tropical flora and fauna. It’s also a way to preserve a tradition dear to this coastal town, the papier-mâché technique – read more about that here!

Lansèt kòd at Jacmel carnival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Lansèt Kòd and Their Pranks

Every Sunday leading up to the carnival parade, you might run into groups of men and women completely covered in a shiny, sticky, blacker-than-black mixture made of sugarcane syrup and charcoal. These are the Lansèt Kòd (rope throwers or Lanceurs de cordes in French).

Sometimes they parade with whips in hand and wear surprising accessories such as multicolored wigs, miniskirts and thongs, or bullhorn attached to their heads and arms. For the carnival novice, they might look strange, scary, or even grotesque. Don’t worry, that’s the point. The origin of this tradition dates back to colonial times, like many other practices in Haitian culture.

These rope throwers are known for their pranks and mischief. If you have the original idea of wearing white for the parade, you may end up with a black handprint on your back!

Follow along in the footsteps of a lansèt kòd group as they run around Jacmel!

The Yawe at Jacmel carnival
Photo: Franck Fontain

Yawe: A Unique Carnival Tradition!

The Jacmel Carnival is special in its ability to transport you from one world to another in the blink of an eye. The parade characters can suddenly make way for a spooky atmosphere filled with skulls and skeletons. These are the Zombies (zonbi in creole), one of the mysteries of Haitian folklore and Vodou that has captured the imagination of people around the globe and fueled incredible and improbable fantasies.

The concept of zombies has its roots deeply ingrained in Haitian culture and predates its appropriation by Hollywood and the rest of the world. Far before it became a mainstream theme in horror movies and video games, zombies in Haiti symbolized the dead who had risen from the grave and were forever enslaved.

So, what are you waiting for? Visit Jacmel during kanaval to get up close and personal with these characters!

Fèy Bannann
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fèy Bannann

The Fèy Bannan is a masked group that captures the essence of both strange and intriguing—dressed from top to toe in dried banana leaves with just a small hole for eyes. Some say that their garb pays homage to the German folk character Knecht Ruprecht, who punished misbehaving children. Perhaps this tradition was brought to Jacmel by the young bourgeoisie from Germany, with the character’s hair transformed into dried banana leaves.

However, the Fèy Bannan may have a deeper message at its core. Another story suggests that this carnival costume was created by a wise farmer, as a satirical critique of the Jacmelian bourgeoisie during a time when their bananas were being exported and bringing wealth only to the rich. The mask serving as a message to the exploiters, a reminder that they have taken everything, and the only thing left is the banana leaves they use to cover themselves with.

Ti Brino carnival character
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Ti Brino: The Masked Donkey

Even animals join the festivities at the Jacmel carnival! So don’t be surprised if you see a donkey dressed in converse sneakers and a straw hat. And the craziness doesn’t stop there.

The character known in the city as Ti Brino is followed by an entourage of young boys fully painted in bright neon colors – reminiscent of something straight out of Alice in Wonderland. The story goes that the curious name for this carnival costume is that of the first person who had the original idea to parade a donkey in the carnival.

Zombie carnival costumes
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Enter the Zombies

The Jacmel Carnival is special in its ability to transport you from one world to another in the blink of an eye. The parade characters can suddenly make way for a spooky atmosphere filled with skulls and skeletons. These are the Zombies (zonbi in Haitian Creole), one of the mysteries of Haitian folklore and Vodou that has captured the imagination of people around the globe and fueled incredible and improbable fantasies.

The concept of zombies has its roots deeply ingrained in Haitian culture and predates its appropriation by Hollywood and the rest of the world. Far before it became a mainstream theme in horror movies and video games, zombies in Haiti symbolized the dead who had risen from the grave and were forever enslaved.

Read more about the mythical Haitian zombies here!

Papa Juif
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Enigmatic Wandering Jew

Get ready to be mesmerized as the Jacmel Carnival unveils one of its most intriguing figures – the Wandering Jew. Dubbed “Papa Juif,” this aged man, with his long white beard and attire reminiscent of biblical patriarchs such as Abraham and Moses, walks majestically down the parade with a staff in hand.

The character of the Wandering Jew is a mystery in itself. How did he find his way to the Jacmel Carnival? His legend casts him as a worldly figure, one who belongs everywhere and nowhere at the same time. This character serves as a reminder of the Christian heritage of carnivals, as evidenced by the presence of other characters, such as angels and demons from the Christian tradition.

Native Caribbean Indian carnival costume
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Historical Figure of the Endyen

They wear short skirts, feather crowns, and roucou on their faces. The Indian (endyen in Haitian creole) character evokes a part of Haiti’s history – namely, the time when the island was inhabited by the Taino, Arawak, and other Native Caribbean tribes. Although extinct today, you can still see many elements that have remained of these peaceful peoples’ culture, such as their works of art and cuisine. The Haitian carnival honors these people every year through the Indian character.

Among the represented Indians, you can observe the beautiful queen Anacaona, recognized for her beauty and great talent as a poet, or the fierce king Caonabo, known for his bravery in the face of the Spanish invasion of the island. This couple is often presented in the front line of the Indian section of the parade.

A group of Zel Mathurin at Jacmel carnival
Photo: Franck Fontain

The Intimidating Zel Mathurin

Last up on our list of carnival characters are frightening little devils in brightly colored satin costumes, sporting wooden wings and menacing paper mache masks.

These are the Zel Mathurins. They march in formation and create an eerie atmosphere by clapping their wings to produce a haunting sound, embodying Lucifer and his minions. These figures are inspired by the biblical tradition of hell and usually follow behind the angels in the carnival parade.

So, what are you waiting for? Visit Jacmel during kanaval to get up close and personal with these characters!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published February 2023.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Lansèt Kòd – the Haitian Tradition You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

The final lansèt kòd ritual
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Lansèt Kòd – the Haitian Tradition You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

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Embark on a journey of cultural discovery with the Haitian Carnival – where music, dance, and artistic expression come to life. Amidst the lively parades and colorful costumes, one tradition stands out as truly original and captivating – the Lansèt Kòd.

This century-old spectacle, where fearless participants cover themselves in black paint and run around in the streets, is a sight you won’t soon forget. But be warned, the Lansèt Kòd may seem strange or even intimidating to the unassuming observer, although for those who dare to experience it, it’s a true exhibition of Haitian culture.

To delve deeper into the Haitian tradition of the Lansèt Kòd, we traveled to Jacmel, the hub of cultural heritage in Haiti’s southeast department, to witness the preparation of the disguise, the pulsating energy, and the spectacle of the procession that culminates at sunset.

A boy getting face painted for Lansèt Kòd
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Embracing Eccentricity: A Behind-the-Scenes Look

On a Sunday morning during carnival season in Jacmel, the sleepy coastal town is gradually stirring as the sun rises. The air is salty from the nearby ocean and the sky is a brilliant blue. In a neighborhood lakou, a group of young men gathers, ready to disguise themselves for their weekly outing. They move to the beat of méringue music blaring from a cell phone, as they arrange their costumes, made from cut-out pants and ragged shorts.

Lansèt kòd carnival costume in the making
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Papier-mâché horns, painted fresh, dry in the sun as motorcycles drive by, adding to the noise of the street. To complete their look, some of the participants hold long whips, ready to snap as they parade through the town. Eccentricity is encouraged and embraced in these groups, with some sporting miniskirts and wigs in varying shades of brown, blonde and multicolored.

Charcoal being mixed with sugar cane syrup
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In a corner of the courtyard, the leader prepares the central element of their disguise – a mixture of charcoal powder and cane syrup. The result is a thick, shiny black substance. The air is filled with a sweet, sugary aroma as the young men cover themselves head-to-toe with the mixture, only leaving ragged shirts, wigs, horns, and whips as the only other visible clothing.

Rubbing on the black paint
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Friends help each other apply the black paint, leaving their skin sticky and oily. Finally, with their disguises complete, the Lansèt Kòd are ready to take the streets of Jacmel by storm.

A lansèt kòd father and his son
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Origin of Lansèt Kòd: A Look into Its History

The Haitian tradition of Lansèt Kòd, (rope throwers in English or lanceurs de cordes in French), is rooted in the history of the French colony of Saint Domingue (present-day Haiti). During the colonial period, European-style carnivals were held in Saint Domingue, featuring lavish costumes and festivities.

Enslaved people, who were banned from participating in these carnivals, would stage their own mini-carnivals in their backyards, dress in tattered clothing and carry whips, with their skin smudged in a mix of grease and ashes they imitated and mocked their masters’ behavior.

This tradition was originally created as a form of ridicule of the slave masters, who would attend carnivals dressed in their finery. However, after Haiti gained independence, the newly freed people adopted the European Carnival tradition and infused it with their own music and culture.

Today, the Lansèt Kòd tradition is a celebration of Haitian culture and independence. In the collective imagination of Haitians, the Lansèt Kòd have also evolved into a symbol of good behavior for children, a kind of bogeyman that is used to encourage kids to be well-behaved.

The lansèt kòd in the streets of Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Mark of the Black Hand

As the Lansèt Kòd group leave the lakou and venture out into the streets, they bring with them a sense of dezod (meaning chaos and disorder in Haitian Creole) Their black-painted bodies are a stark contrast against the brightly colored houses of Jacmel. With synchronized stomping and singing, they draw the attention of everyone around them. In the center of the group, a member carries a flagpole waving their banner proudly.

And suddenly, they all break into a sprint.

The lansèt kòd group running through Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In a seemingly choreographed manner they split into smaller groups, running through the narrow city streets while playfully trying to touch others with their black-painted hands. The hunting party has begun.

As the Lansèt Kòd start chasing after unsuspecting bystanders they leave their mark in the form of a black handprint. This may come across as strange or even frightening, but it’s all in good fun and part of the tradition. In fact, the majority of people who receive the “blessing” of the black paint are friends of the Lansèt Kòd entourage.

The lansèt kòd hunt
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

However, there’s one thing you should keep in mind: the Lansèt Kòd have a particular fondness for white clothing. If you’re wearing your finest dress or favorite white shirt, be prepared to end up with a black handprint on your back.

The black mark
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The black marks left by the Lansèt Kòd have a deeper meaning, as they evoke the Haitian proverb “Pito nou lèd, nou la,” meaning “We may be ugly, but we are still here.” This powerful statement is connected to the brutal system of slavery and symbolizes the idea that being free and alive, even if it means being “ugly,” is preferable to being subjugated under French rule.

A moto passenger being marked
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

A Shared Caribbean Tradition

The Haitian cultural tradition of Lansèt Kòd in can be found in different forms throughout the Caribbean. At Trinidad’s Carnival, participants of Jouvert (French for daybreak) cover their bodies in a variety of substances, including oil and body paint, to party in the streets. Jouvert celebrates a rebellious spirit, contrasting the allure of glitter, color, and feathers that dominate the mainstream carnival.

In Grenada, groups known as Jab-Jab participate in the annual Carnival. The name comes from the French word “Diable,” and Jab-Jab is essentially a giant street party with participants covering themselves in oil, mud, or grease and wearing cattle horns to embody the Jab-Molassie or “molasses devil”.

These traditions have roots in the pre-Lent festivities of former French colonies, where the wealthy class would don elaborate costumes and dance to orchestral music. Meanwhile, ex-slaves, with limited resources, would use ashes from burned cane, grease, and other materials to cover themselves in a satirical nod to slavery days. The music back then was created with the beating of biscuit tins, oil drums, and the blowing of conch shells. Today, these traditions have been preserved and continue to give the Caribbean region its vibrant and distinct character.

The lansèt kòd passing Alliance Française
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Final Ritual

The Lansèt Kèd group keeps the energy high as they traverse the streets of Jacmel on this sunny January Sunday. They run through the winding roads, including Rue Seymour Pradel and the picturesque Rue du Commerce, home to historic gingerbread houses. The group stops traffic at street intersections, causing cars to honk and onlookers to either flee or gather for a closer view.

A final run
Photo: Franck Fontain

As the day goes on and the steep city streets are conquered, fatigue seems unlikely to set in. The group is invigorated by their shared excitement and a dose of Haitian moonshine, known as “kleren.”

While the sun dips below the horizon in the bay of Jacmel, the previously split-up groups converge at the ocean boardwalk in Lakou New York. Laughter and conversation fill the air as the members swap stories from their day. The atmosphere is one of joy and camaraderie.

The group members run into the ocean
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Finally, at the signal from the leader, one member waves the group’s flag, a symbol of their bond and pride. And the rest of the group makes its way into the ocean for the final ritual of the day. The waves crash against their bodies, washing away the remnants of the black paint and any evidence of the day’s festivities. A ritualistic cleansing before the next Sunday’s performance.

The final lansèt kòd ritual
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Get in on the Action

Want to join the festivities and experience the unique Haitian tradition of Lansèt Kòd? You can do so by visiting JacmelJérémieCap-Haïtien, Les Cayes or other major cities in Haiti during the carnival season. Jacmel is considered the best destination for its rich history and lively pre-carnival activities, with Lansèt Kòd groups starting their weekly performances from the first Sunday of January and continuing every Sunday until the Trois Jours Gras (the three fat days), where the main carnival parade takes place.

During the Trois Jours Gras, the rope throwers play a unique role in the main carnival parade. Not only do they represent the enslaved people of the colony of Saint Domingue, but they also help maintain order during the parade. In stark contrast to their usual image as chaos-makers they joyfully chase anyone who tries to disturb the parade.

So, if you’re thinking of disrupting the parade, be prepared to be pursued by the rope throwers. And, who knows, you might just end up being blackened.

For a more unique experience, consider joining a Lansèt Kòd for their Sunday performance. They welcome new participants and will gladly integrate you into this quirky, important symbolic tradition. To learn more, talk to your local friends, host, guide, or tour operator.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published January 2023.


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11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Lansèt kod group in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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If you already know a little about Haiti, then you likely have an idea about our magnificent country, located on the enchanting island of Hispaniola that we share with the Dominican Republic. It’s possible, however, that you have yet to hear about some of the most unique Haitian cultural traditions only known to locals.

To satisfy your curiosity, we’ve rounded up a selection of our oldest traditions, ranging from the daily life in our rural communities to the hubbub of our cities and rich culinary culture.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. “Krik-Krak”

Any true Haitian knows that the exclamation “krik?” always proceeds with an excellent “krak,” or story, as telling tales is an integral part of Haiti’s cultural traditions. Whether under an arbor drinking lemongrass tea with cinnamon or in the comfort of a warm room, the youngest gather around the oldest to tell their tales of yesteryear.

If you want to catch the attention of a Haitian friend, take every opportunity to throw out a “krik?” and they will invariably respond with a “krak.” But your story better be a good one!

Sounds interesting, doesn’t it? Get the backstory to this unique tradition and discover the impact of krik-krak in Haitian culture. Also, for an excellent read, the book Krik? Krak! is a compilation of fascinating Haitian tales by Edwidge Danticat, one of the most famous Haitian women authors to date.

Workers in a konbit in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

2. Konbit

If you pass through some rural regions in Haiti during the tilling season, don’t be surprised to find all the villagers working together or on each other’s lands. This form of social organization in our rural societies is an essential part of our culture and one of the oldest Haitian traditions that continue to this day.

While the men happily handle their kouto digo (hatchet), and machetes to unearth and work the land before its next sowing, women prepare the meals. Moreover, the word “konbit” in Haitian Creole has come into use to refer to living in harmony and the neighborly practices that are unique to the Haitian community.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

3. Lakou

Imagine living in a homeland within another, where each individual forms an integral part of a larger society devoted to a greater good. In Haiti, such a place is known as a lakou. It’s typical to see Haitian families sharing common spaces around their central family units.

The lakou serves as an educational cocoon in which the youngest members can learn about sharing and living in neighborly harmony from their elders. Those who grow up in the commune have a responsibility to one day return to honor their family, seek wise advice, and publicly apologize to the Vodou spirits or loas that may have been offended.

Many Haitian rural communities rely on the social organization that lakou provide to advance in everyday living – and not only do they till the ground together but also share and practice their belief in Haitian Vodou. The worship of spirits is deeply entrenched in the lakou, and well-known lakou like Souvans, Soukri, and Badio maintain this cultural tradition unique to Haiti.

Beny chans preparations in Kabik
Photo: Anton Lau

4. Beny chans

It might seem strange from the looks of it initially, but if you happen to come across a large water bowl of mixed herbs and leaves while traveling through Haiti, then you’ve encountered a “beny chans.” Traditionally an herbal shower for women after giving birth, it is also considered a potion for good luck, finding a soulmate, or even protection during a life-changing trip.

If you didn’t grow up in Haiti, you might be wary about dipping your hands in this unusual mixture. Still, for locals, it’s all part of the unique Haitian culture – so much so that it wouldn’t be surprising for a native living abroad to return to Haiti to receive this sacred anointment on New Year’s eve.

Feeling adventurous? Go and give it a try. But don’t forget to tap into your African-Caribbean roots with our guide on returning to the motherland.

a vodou priest and practitioner performing a dance
Ritual at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. Vodou ceremony and dance

Here’s one of the Haitian cultural traditions that will undoubtedly arouse your curiosity. Forget about the mainstream concept of a group of bloodthirsty Satanists gathering at a run-down Gothic-style church – this is Hollywood stereotyping at its best. Instead, think of an authentic spiritual experience where members enter a trance-like state in alignment with powerful spiritual entities.

Haitian culture isn’t the only one that has Vodou as a religious practice, with similar rituals actively performed in places like the Deep South” in Louisiana or the insular African nation of Benin. In countries such as Brazil and Cuba, the practice of Santeria is still common in many communities. The Haitian Vodou tradition, however, involves elements from years of syncretism, resulting in a blend of African, Christian, and Taíno spiritual traditions.

Vodou is a strong cultural tradition in the Haitian collective imagination—and it’s present in Haitian paintings, music, dances, and literature. More than simply religion or spirituality, Vodou is an intangible patrimony that all Haitians share, whether they consider themselves a true practitioner or not.

Ready for an experience of your own? Find out how to attend a Vodou ceremony in Haiti.

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

6. Fèt Gede

The dead occupy a place of central importance in Haitian daily life, and honoring them constitutes one of the most sacred cultural traditions. To do this, the entire month of November is consecrated each year to ceremonies aimed at appeasing the dead and communicating with them. The spirits that reign over the world of the dead in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Bawon Samdi and Grann Brigitte.

The Gédé symbolizes the spirits of those who have passed into the other world. During the ceremonies organized in their honor, they return to bring joy to the people with their frenzied dancing and salacious speech.

Every Haitian day of the dead celebration is packed with an aura of excitement and mysticism, which you can see for yourself in this photo journal from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band marching in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

7. Rara

Not all Haitian cultural traditions have origins as dark as those about death. In fact, some of them are rather joyous, and the Rara is a perfect example. These groups that march on foot along the streets during pre-Carnaval weekends and the Easter period constitute one of Haiti’s best-known cultural practices.

These spirited groups of bons vivants play various instruments, such as bamboo, the vaccine, cymbals, and sometimes even trumpets and other brass instruments. Their repertoire can run from parodies of popular songs to original songs and those written for special occasions.

Each group is preceded by a man who carries a flag, a woman who wears the group’s colors, and young girls who start the procession. Following are musicians and the rest of the good-natured group that dances along to the sound of the music.

Now, the practice of Rara isn’t only particular to Haiti; other Caribbean nations like Cuba and the Dominican Republic, where it is known as Gaga, have adopted this cultural tradition from Haiti.

Get the true origins behind the Rara tradition of Haiti and join the celebration!

A group of lansèt kod in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Lansèt kòd

If you visit Haiti during the Carnival period, you’ll undoubtedly have the chance to witness one of the most unforgettable cultural traditions: the famous procession of the Lansèt Kòd. Some Haitians will tell you that they were traumatized by it as children. These groups that flood the streets of towns such as Jacmel, Jérémie, or Cap-Haïtien on pre-Carnival Sundays have more than what it takes to impress.

Wearing bull horns on their heads and whips in hand, these men with rippling muscles and bare chests fill up the streets while covered entirely in black paint. Yes, you read that right—they are completely covered with a blacker-than-black substance that will surely make you think of crude oil. Throughout the Carnival procession, they’ll offer up a performance that will remain ingrained in your memory for some time.

Learn more about the Lansèt kòd tradition here!

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Carnival

The Haitian carnival is one of the most widely recognized in the Caribbean. The one hosted in Jacmel has been decreed a national festival due to its artistic allure, attracting numerous tourists every year. It is a brightly colored cultural manifestation where you’ll see Haitian artisans’ talent displayed in themes reminiscent of flora and fauna of the country.

This popular celebration is not only an occasion for artists and artisans to display their talents or attract visitors – but it’s also a means for the population to express their problems with the powers that be. It’s a celebration where all levels of society come together without embarrassment or worrying about societal barriers.

If you’re looking to be part of the festivities this February, then you’d better be prepared to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval.

A bowl of soup joumou
Soup Joumou
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Soup Joumou

If you visit any Haitian family on New Year’s Day, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by a culinary practice as old as Haiti: the traditional Soup Joumou preparation. So forget about your desire to eat anything else, and let our succulent soup seduce your tastebuds.

Prepared from a giraumont (turban squash) base, where the soup gets its name -as well as vegetables and tubers – this dish is a staple in all Haitian households on New Year’s Day. Don’t be surprised to see people incorporating Soup Joumou with every meal served during the entire celebration. It’s just that good.

This tradition hearkens back to January 1st, 1804, when the young nation chose this delicious dish – until then only reserved for the colonizers and special guests – to celebrate their freshly acquired liberty.

Want to find out what makes Soup Joumou so unique? Pick up on some of the history behind the dish, and learn the basics of preparing the best Soup Joumou.

Fête champêtre in Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Fête champêtre

Every city in Haiti has its own patron Saint to which the inhabitants turn to confess their troubles and joys or make special petitions. These cultural celebrations of the patron saints, also called fête champêtres, are on another level.

Regardless of their religious beliefs, locals from other provincial towns, as well as a crowd of curious onlookers and tourists, head toward the capital cities from each village to celebrate the feast dedicated to the patron saint.

Along with religious pilgrims, you also have the partygoers who are only there to enjoy the festival following the Grand Mass of the local parish. Among the most popular fêtes champêtres in Haiti are the celebrations of Notre Dame of Mount Carmel in Saut d’Eau and Notre Dame in Petit Goâve.

Gather with the locals and go on a pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau, whether for spiritual reasons or just to celebrate and party hard with the crowd.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2022.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Photo Journal: Fèt Gede – A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

crowd gathered at haitian cemetery with big cross for fet gede ritual
Crowd gathered for Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fèt Gede: A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

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Every November in Haiti, there are festivities held throughout the month that, for an outsider, might seem, well, quite strange! In particular, the Fête Gede (Day of the Dead) and All Saint’s Day involve unsettling processions to the cemetery of each town around the country.

The crowd that gathers is a varied group, comprising people who are simply curious as well as people of all different faiths, including Hatian Vodou. They join together to walk to the main cemetery in each town, all the while following the unique spectacle that the procession offers. And what is this spectacle, exactly? Practitioners of Vodou taken over by the Gede, the spirits for whom these stunning celebrations in Haiti are held.

vodou practitioner holding a machete and colorful handkerchiefs
A Vodou practitioner celebrating Fèt Gede, Gonaïves Cemetary
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In Vodou spirituality, the Gede are the spirits of the dead. They are responsible for accompanying the dead on the path toward the other world, but also of watching over the living. They thus constitute the bridge between the world of the living and the world of the dead. Two major Gede deities in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Baron Samedi and Grann Brigitte.

gravestone at haitian cemetery during fet gede ritual
Fèt Gede rituals at the cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Those possessed by the gede spirits set the festival’s tone, which is truly carnivalesque. You might hear some rough language, see some dirty dancing, and witness other extravagant performances. All of these provide plenty of entertainment for the more docile crowd that follows along.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
A Vodou temple inside the Cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fueled by alcohol, as well as hot pepper-based infusions that they sprinkle on their bodies, the procession heads toward the main cemetery. Overtaken by the spirits of the dead, the possessed swear and carry out quite a remarkable performance.

gravestone at haitian cemetery with two soda bottles and flowers
Offerings on a gravestone during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The spectacle of the procession attracts quite a crowd, and the possessed are easily recognizable due to the ritual colors of Baron Samedi that they wear (white, black, and purple). Some even cover themselves entirely with white powder or draw gloomy scenes on their bodies. Others choose to wear the preferred attire of Baron Samedi, which includes a black hat, monocle, and cane. Altogether, this creates a true Carnival of the Dead that happens every year in Haitian cemeteries.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
Preparation during Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

This Festival of the Dead, which comprises rituals and dances all November long, testifies to the intimate link that exists between the world of the living and the world of the dead in Vodou spirituality. For practitioners of Vodou,  Fête Gede is really more like a celebration of life. The gede spirits who return via their hosts during possession can attest to this way of thinking. They are brought to life by joy and are spirits who love to laugh, dance, and have fun.

haitian vodou practitioner dancing at fet gede ritual with crowd watching
Vodou practitioners during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

All of these wild performances have just one objective: to amuse. The festival is not a moment for tears or regrets but rather a time to honor the memory of the departed. Part of this involves preparing for the festival by cleaning the cemeteries and restoring the tombs.

Those who have sailed for “the land without a hat” — a Haitian expression that means the “beyond,” because no one is buried with their hat — remain present in daily life and are nonetheless celebrated as they should be during this festival given in their honor. In Vodou spirituality, those who have set sail for the world of the dead maintain an important role in everyday life. The spirits of those who have passed on, bearing the name Gede, are respected as guardians, advisors, or vengeful spirits by those who remain.

The Fête Gede festival in Haiti is somewhat similar to the Day of the Dead as practiced in other parts of the world (e.g. Dia de los Muertos). The difference, however, lies in the place that the dead occupy in Vodou belief and in the syncretism underlying the various beliefs that Haitians hold.

haitian cemetery with sculpture and blue sky with clouds
Monument for the Gede spirit Brave, Gonaïves Cemetery
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

As a legacy of ancestral African traditions, Vodou reserves an important place for those who have departed this world for the next. In the procession of the Gede, different people portray different divinities, including Baron Samedi, Baron Lacroix, Baron Criminel, Grann Brigitte, and all the other Gede spirits. Much more than simple guardians of death and graveyards, the Gede are also guardians of life.

As such, the celebration of Fèt Gede is not just a celebration to commemorate the dead, but a celebration where the dead can take part by way of possession in the form of Gede spirits.

haitians gathered at cemetery for fet gede vodou ritual
A Vodou Priestess heading a ceremony for the spirit Brave Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

At the main cemetery in Port-au-Prince, where the biggest iteration of this festival is held each year, Catholics come to pray for the souls of their deceased at the small chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, Protestants come to gather at the graves of their lost loved ones, and practitioners of Vodou come for the largest celebration of the Fête Gede festival in all of Haiti.

haitian vodou practitioners lighting a candle during fet gede
A Vodou ritual at a ceremony during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The festival is at the very crossroads of Haiti’s religious syncretism, with Catholics and Protestants joining the procession to the cemeteries, all worshiping differently but each bearing the same thoughts for the departed, thoughts colored by the beliefs on which these extraordinary celebrations are based.

haitian vodou practitioner at cemetery wearing a black and purple dress
A Vodou ceremony for the Brave Gede spirit during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Even if Fèt Gede is held on and around All Saint’s Day and the Day of the Dead, it’s a much different celebration than ones that you might see elsewhere. It’s a true moment of communion between the dead and the living, the latter of whom brings coffee, roasted corn, cassava, clairin (rum), or the favorite dish of the lost loved one.

haitian man holding a part of a human skull for fet gede
Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

One might even be tempted to say that Fèt Gede is much more than a simple set of practices based on certain beliefs about death — rather, it constitutes a genuine philosophy of life, a life that must be lived like a carnival. If we enjoy every moment, it won’t be the Gede who contradict us!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published in October 2022.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel