Destinations

Fort Ogé

December 28, 2019 by admin

fort oge fortress on mountain top with ocean view — Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

This 200 year-old fortress site is cared for by the local community and offers visitors a personal tour through Haiti’s battle for independence

While most of us know the city of Jacmel as the picturesque home of Haitian art, culture, and popular beachfronts, it is also where you’ll find Fort Ogé.

Tiny compared to the towering Citadelle Laferrière, Fort Ogé often gets overlooked when it comes to adventurers’ itineraries, but comparisons aside, this fort is impressive and well worth exploring in its own right.

aerial view fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside — Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

Right around the time Haiti was seizing its independence from the slave-owning colonial upper class, resistance leaders like Jean-Jacques Dessalines ordered the construction of forts all over liberated territories, built to provide safe refuge for the newly freed people and to deter counteroffensives, in case the French returned and tried to retake the island. This era became known as the fortification of Haiti, and Fort Ogé, built in 1804, is one of about 20 military sites fortified during this period. Fort Ogé was named after Vincent Ogé, one of the most popular Haitian revolutionaries.

Fort Ogé was undamaged by the 2010 earthquake and stands strong to this day. Built over two centuries ago, the still-imposing fortress will have you asking “how?” – how did independence leaders know to build a fortress in such a strategic place, and how was it done with the limited tools available at the time? How did they carry multiple heavy canons up the slope to the fortress?

Compared to Citadelle Laferriere, the largest fortress in Haiti (and one of the largest fortresses in all of the Americas), Fort Ogé is not as swamped by tourists, making it a great destination if you came to Haiti looking for an adventure away from the crowds but accidentally found yourself here during peak season.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel — Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Guided tours

The real gem waiting to be discovered when you explore Fort Ogé is the history behind how it was built – hidden to most, but in plain sight for those who know how to look. This is why a personal guided tour is the best way to see the site – local guides can narrate the history of the fort as you explore, right down to the specific uses of the different dungeons.

As is the case at almost every landmark or sightseeing location in Haiti, children run around the site playing, and some members of local committees will most likely come up to greet you and show you around. The site is cared for and used by the residents of the area, as are many other national treasures, to help bridge the gap left behind by the Ministry of Culture. Locals are always ready to give a taste of true Haitian hospitality – which of course includes suggestions for where to get fed, what else you should see during your trip, and where to find the best entertainment.

You’ll find that at times where visitors are few and far between, the fort is an integral part of the townsfolk life; children play soccer there, and old folks wander around. By paying a small entry fee and/or hiring a personal guide, you’ll be contributing to the development of the area through community projects.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside — Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

Located about an hour east of Jacmel, Fort Ogé is close to other historical landmarks including Cap Rouge, as well as other top Haitian destinations like Bassin Bleu, Raymond le Bains beach and the charming fishing village of Marigot.

The easiest starting point to get to Fort Ogé is the city of Jacmel. If you are driving in your own car, start out towards Cayes-Jacmel. Once reach the Jacmel Airport (it will be on your left), make a left onto Avenue Gerald M. Mathurin. From there, it’s very simple; just follow the signs up to Fort Ogé! The road up to the fort is quite rough, though, and so your drive will be much more successful in a four-wheel drive vehicle.

If you do not have a car, don’t worry— you can still make it to the fort by moto! At the corner of the Jacmel Airport, you will find a throng of moto drivers, ready to go. The fee to get to the fort should be 500 HTG, and this should include your driver waiting for you at the fort— and therefore receiving payment from you when you are back in the city. Make sure to pick out a moto that can handle the rocky road and sharp inclines!

Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published December 2019

Find Fort Ogé

Explore the South of Haiti

Cap-Haïtien City Guide

December 13, 2019 by admin

church cathedral in cap-haitien, haiti — The Notre Dame Cathedral in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Verdy Verna

City Guide: Cap-Haïtien

As Cap-Haïtien’s 350th anniversary draws near, take a swooping dive down into the heart of the city, and learn how it earned its well-deserved title as Haiti’s second city.

The Paris of the Antilles

Cap-Haïtien is Haiti’s second largest city, popular with travellers because of its proximity to world-class beaches and UNESCO heritage sites.

A key city during the Caribbean colonial period, Cap‑Français (as it was then named) earned the nicknamed the Paris of the Antilles for its sophisticated architecture and artistic culture. It was the capital city of the French colony of Saint Domingue from 1711 until the Haitian Revolution, when it became the capital of the Kingdom of Northern Haiti under King Henri Christophe. Christophe renamed the city from Cap‑Français to Cap-Henri. When Christophe died in 1820, the whole island of Hispaniola was briefly unified, and it was in the early phases of this (re)unification that Cap-Haïtien was given the name it has today. Mostly, though, you’ll hear this beautiful city called simply “Le Cap”.

city street with traffic and old colonial buildings — Old gingerbread house in Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

What to see and do in Cap-Haïtien

The Cathedral
The early 20th century Notre Dame Cathedral (also known as the Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, Cap-Haïtien Cathedral and (French) Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l’Assomption.

Héros de Vertières
Héros de Vertières (Heroes Monument of Vertières) is an open-air sculpture park dedicated to the heroes of the 1803 Battle of Vertieres.

The Battle of Vertières was the last major battle of the Second War of Haitian Independence, and the final battle of the Haitian Revolution led by Jean Jacques Dessalines. It was fought on November 18, just south of what is now Cap-Haïtien.

An inspiring site that celebrates a remarkable moment in history, a visit to the Heroes de Vertieres is especially empowering for travelers from the Haitian diaspora. The monument is on the western outskirts of the city, within a five-minute drive of both Hôtel Impérial and one of our favorite places to eat in Cap-Haïtien, Lakay.

The Bottle Gate(s) (French: “Barrière Bouteille” / “Barrières Bouteilles”)
These iconic bottle-shaped structures mark the historic entrance to the city.

The Iron Market (French: Marche au Fer)
Named after the iconic Port-au-Prince Iron Market, this lively market is housed inside a Victorian-era cast iron pavilion. First built in 1890 under Haitian engineer Alexandre Bobo, Cap-Haïtien’s Iron Market has attracted tourists since the 1960s thanks to its impressive period architecture and the huge range of handicrafts sold here – especially colorful ritual objects associated with vodou practice. Today, the Iron Market is a chaotic sprawl of craftspeople and food vendors hawking their produce.

Dance to live music
Let your hair down like a local with these Cap-Haïtien musice scene stalwarts: Septentrional and Tropicana d’Haiti. Catch them at a venue called Versailles (named after the French royal palace).

yellow restaurant building in cap-haitien — Lakay, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to eat

Lakay: Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent (and huge!) traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Boukanye: our favorite place to drink coffee in Cap-Haïtien, this pirate-themed hangout is a great bar by night but a cozy café by day.

Cap Deli: serving up some of the freshest food in the city, Cap Deli is the place to go in Cap-Haïtien for American-style burgers and pizza.

Lolo: a new Italian-Haitian restaurant, Lolo serves exquisite fresh pasta and fine wine.

Must-try local specialities: Cap-Haitien cuisine is particularly well-known for its cashew-based recipes, so be sure to try some local cashew dishes while you’re in town! Native to Brazil, cashew trees are now an important crop across the Caribbean, and most of Haiti’s are grown right here in the North Department.

Woman throwing a towel down to relax on the beach on Amiga Island, Ile-a-rat — Amiga Island, (Ile-a-Rat) close to Cap Haitien
Photo: Anton Lau

Best beaches

The best beaches nearby are Cormier, Labadee and Île-à-Rat Island (Amiga Island).

The beach at Cormier is one of the most under-appreciated on the island – and only a twenty minute drive from downtown Cap-Haïtien.

Labadee Beach is one of the crowning jewels of Haiti, with fine sands and crystal-clear blue water that attracts cruise ships from around the world.

Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island) is a tiny island off the beaches west of Cap-Haïtien. This little paradise is a microcosm of what makes Haiti one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean, with fine white sand beaches, shady palm trees, warm turquoise waters, incredible fresh seafood – and fewer crowds. The swimming is superb, and snorkelers can find half-buried colonial artillery and anchors.

For USD $40 a boat taxi from Labadee will take you to Île-à-Rat, and for an extra USD $15 they’ll cook you up a fresh lunch of lobster, octopus, crab or fish, all caught locally. Make sure you take some ice-cold bottles of rum and Prestige with you for the trip!

Colorful boat taxis line the shore at Cap-Haïtien, Haiti — Boat taxis going to Île-à-Rat (Amiga Island)
Photo: Verdy Verna

Where to sleep

All-inclusive resorts:
Cormier Beach Resort

Ocean view hotels:
Top hotels include Hôtel Impérial, Hotel Satama, Habitation Jouissant, Habitation des Lauriers and Mont Joli

Hidden Gem:
Kay Lolo Plage

Only accessible by boat, Kay Lolo Plage is a boutique B&B secluded in a private cove and surrounded by tropical forest. The separate bungalows and villa are in great condition and offer travellers a private beach with gorgeous views, birdsong and very exclusive vibes. There’s no wifi or running water here, but you’ll find kayaks, paddleboards and a breakfast cooked just for you.

Aerial view of Citadelle Laferrière and mountain range, Haiti — Citadelle Laferrière, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Awesome day-trips

South of Cap-Haïtien, Citadelle Laferriere is a hilltop fortress built by revolutionary leader Henri Christophe.

Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferriere. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

The city of Dondon is located about two hours south of Cap-Haïtien and has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno people lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

Getting there

American Airlines fly direct from Miami to Cap-Haitian, with fares starting at US $127 and a flight time of less than two hours.

From Port-au-Prince, Haiti’s capital city, Sunrise Airways will take you to CAP in 45 minutes for less than US $100, but it’s more fun, and you’ll see more of Haiti, if you jump on a cross-country bus or rent a car. On wheels, the journey from PAP to CAP will take four hours or more, depending on your route. Will you drive inland via Lake Peligre and Bassin Zim, or along the Caribbean coastline via Montrouis and Gonaïves?

Coming from the Dominican Republic? Caribe Tours, the most popular bus company in Dominican Republic, runs daily from Santiago to Cap-Haïtien. The journey takes roughly five hours: two and a half hours from Santiago to Dajabon, on the Dominican border, then another hour from Haitian border town Ouathamije to Cap-Haïtien. Return tickets cost US $25 per person, plus an extra US $25 border-crossing fee.

For more information, see our guides to getting to Haiti and transport within Haiti.

Written by the Visit Haiti team.

Published December 2019

Top things to see in Haiti

Top destinations for December and January in Haiti

November 24, 2019 by admin

Winter in Haiti: Top destinations for December and January in Haiti

In the heart of the Caribbean…

…Haiti is warm all year round. December and January are in the middle of Haiti’s dry season, and with as few as three rainy days each month, gorgeous weather is almost guaranteed.

With lower humidity and little rain, these months offer the best conditions for surfing, snorkeling, diving and trekking. This is when the seas are at their calmest (and most photogenic).

December and January are far and away the most popular time to visit Haiti, making it a little bit tricky, and sometimes expensive to secure a flight to get here. But everything’s relative; Haiti is still only just starting to show up on the international tourist map, and even in the busier months of the year you’ll be able to find a secluded getaway on a remote bit of island or peninsula, and maybe even a beach all to yourself.

Ready to treat yourself to some tropical Christmas cheer? Or ring in the new year Caribbean style? Here are the very best places to see and be in Haiti during your holiday vacation.

sun rising over beach with palm trees and lifeguard chair — Sunrise over Ti Mouillage beach, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

01. Ti Mouillage, Jacmel

The coastal city of Jacmel has no shortage of beaches, but some outshine others. Ti Mouillage has the finest sand the city has to offer, and the softest slope down into crystal clear blue waters. Fresh seafood is available here as well.

About ten minutes from Raymond les Bains and twenty minutes away from the city of Jacmel itself, Ti Mouillage is a great place to swim, paddle or even surf!

Lounge chairs beneath trees at Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve, Haiti — Taino Beach, Grand-Goâve
Photo: Anton Lau

02. Taïno Beach, Grand-Goâve

While most people think of the Arcadins Coast as the reference for beaches in Haiti, the South of the country is just as rich in gorgeous stretches of beach.

Just a two-hour drive west of Port-au-Prince, Taïno boasts some of the finest soft sand, some of the clearest waters, as well as some of the tastiest food on the island.

Man carries flowers along green path at a farm — Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve
Photo: Franck Fontain

03. Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve, Kenscoff

If you came to Haiti to escape winter, but your idea of indulgence is less beach and more great outdoors, Wynne Farm is the place to go, and not far from Port-au-Prince. If you’re a nature enthusiast, nutrition student, or visiting Haiti on a group adventure, Wynne Farm is a great place for a day trip.

From guided ground tours to workshops and horseback riding, there are plenty of activities to experience at Wynne Farm.

jazz concert on big stage in front of large sitting crowd — PAPJazz festival in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Josué Azor

04. Jazz Festival, Port-au-Prince

PAPJAZZ happens every January across a cluster of venues in Haiti’s capital. Each year brings individuals and bands from Haiti and across the world, including Guadalupe, Guyana, the U.S., Canada, Chile, Germany, France and even as far away as Sweden.

Sunset over Boutilliers, Haiti — View from Boutilliers
Photo: Franck Fontain

05. Boutilier, Port-au-Prince

Time for a fresh perspective! A mountain neighborhood a few minutes outside of Pétion-Ville, Boutilier is home to one of the best views of Port-au-Prince in the country. With plenty of artwork to purchase and a great place – l’Observatoire – to grab a bite to eat, Boutilier is one of the closest places to take a quick break and deep breath outside of the city.

If you’re looking for somewhere to celebrate New Year’s Eve over a rum cocktail or a glass of bubbly, this is it.

Colorful metal artwork on blue wall in Village Noailles, Haiti — Souvenirs at Village Noailles
Photo: Franck Fontain

06. Village Artistique de Noailles, Croix-des-Bouquets

Want to immerse yourself in Haitian art? There is no better destination than the artistic village of Noailles. It is the birthplace of iron art in Haiti, and the most popular place to get your hands on any form of Haitian art.

The artisans are friendly, some of them know a few words of English, and there are endless styles of artworks to choose from, merchant to merchant.

Ice cream and beer truck on Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince — Ice cream truck on Champ de Mars
Photo: Franck Fontain

07. Champ-de-Mars, Port-au-Prince

A series of public squares divided by large boulevards, Champ de Mars is a cluster of markets, businesses and theaters. During the holidays, there are special performances at the Occide Jeanty kiosk, and a customary Christmas tree is put up and adorned with lights close to the Museum of the National Pantheon.

A great place to walk around on afternoons and evenings, and put your finger on the pulse of Haitian city life.

Photo of a person snorkelling — Snorkelling
Photo: Franck Fontain

08. Snorkelling in Montrouis, Arcadins Coast

Experienced snorkelers will find a wealth of seascapes to explore right around Haiti, but even beginners can go snorkelling in Montrouis, thanks to a gentle introduction on offer at the Moulin sur Mer resort.

Marina Blue Haiti runs a diving and excursion center within Moulin sur Mer, with activities ranging from day tours of the islands off the Arcadins coast to PADI night diving. Montrouis is a great place to find guidance and safety the first time you dive into snorkeling. Another advantage of snorkeling with a Marina Blue tour is that they can take and guide you to their very own coral reef house, with both shallow and deep reefs.

09. Île-à-Rat

Île-à-Rat is a tiny island off the beaches west of Cap-Haïtien. This little paradise is a microcosm of what makes Haiti one of the greatest little countries in the Caribbean, with fine white sand beaches, shady palm trees, warm turquoise waters, incredible fresh seafood – and fewer crowds. The swimming is superb, and snorkelers can find half-buried colonial artillery and anchors.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2019

Get to know Haiti a little better

Visit the Iron Market

July 22, 2019 by admin

The Iron Market

An architectural marvel with acres of market stalls, this is one of the top attractions in Port-au-Prince.

Thronging most street corners of Port-au-Prince, you’ll find local marché stall-holders selling fresh produce of all kinds – barrels and baskets piled high with brightly-coloured fresh fruit, unrecognisable vegetables, grains, mushrooms and mountains of raw spices.

Marché de Fer – that’s the Iron Market in French – is the largest, most diverse, chaotic and exciting – and most worthy of a visit.

Step inside the Iron Market

Towering over the entrance to the market, a Victorian-era railway station clock hints at the market building’s origins. Inside, the surviving 20,000+ square foot hall houses a sea of goods sourced from all over Haiti, laid out in row after row of wooden trestle tables. A small army of merchants arrive early every morning to set up their wares.

As a tourist here, expect to be bombarded by vendors, vying persistently and sometimes aggressively for your attention. It’s a good idea to go with someone who speaks Haitian creole, but don’t be too quick to accept the help of “guides” who might flock to you when you arrive. And remember to take precautions against pickpockets – this is a very crowded place. An intense experience for some, travellers who are not easily intimidated or swindled will find the Iron Market an exciting glimpse into local customs and commerce.

You’ll be invited to market stalls with calls of “Kouman ou ye, bel madanm bel mesye?” – “How are you, young woman, young man?” – or “Jouenn sa or vle bel moun!” – “this is what people want!” – but what’s for sale?

Fruit, vegetables and spices. You’ll find a lush variety: mangoes, pineapple, soursop, figs, oranges, melons, papayas, cherries and more, including exotic seasonal fruits you won’t be able to taste anywhere else in the world. Hispaniolan staple vegetables like carrot, cabbage, eggplant and legumes, plus delicacies like mirliton, djon djon mushrooms and much more, most of it fresh from the countryside. The “West Indies” spices that made Haiti famous around the time the market was first built are still here: absinthe, allspice, anise, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, bergamot, cinnamon, garlic and paprika, scallion and cayenne pepper.

Throughout the market you’ll find vendors with juicing machines set up to make you a fresh juice on the spot using any of the ingredients you choose. You’ll find other street food vendors here too: chatting over bubbling cauldrons of stew, flipping fried plantains or folding pastries for a line of visitors and vendors alike, all happily bantering while waiting for their lunch.

Beyond this, you’ll find vendors selling spices, fabric, clothing, beauty products and a wealth of Haitian handicrafts. Many of the art and craft stalls are run by the artists themselves, who you can watch bent over their work while you browse souvenirs.

Vodou section at Marche en Fer / the Iron Market, Port-au-Prince - Photo: Anton Lau — Vodou section at the Iron Market, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

An architectural marvel with a surprising history

Built as a train station with two soaring iron halls from which it gets its name, the magnificent Victorian architecture – with a distinct Caribbean twist – makes a trip to the market worthwhile all by itself. You’ll find a sneak preview on the back of any 1000 HTG note.

The original structure was fabricated in Paris, France, destined for a railway station in Cairo, Egypt. When plans to erect the train station in Cairo evaporated, Haitian president Florvil Hyppolite purchased it and had it brought to Haiti in 1891.

Designated nationally as a “historical heritage”, the site has undergone its fair share of turbulence. A fire gutted the site in 2008, and less than two years later the 2010 earthquake destroyed the buildings completely. Since then, the market has been rebuilt from the ground up, a near-perfect replica making use of bricks salvaged from the wreck of the earthquake, and, as a finishing touch, employing the same French tiling company that provided the original roof tiles back in 1890. The remade market was officially reopened in 2011 by Bill Clinton, former president of the United States.

Tragically, another fire tore through the site early in 2018, destroying one of the two halls, but the second hall remains as busy as ever, thronging with Haitians determined to build back their livelihoods and shoppers for whom Marche en Fer is as much the national hub of market trade as ever.

Don’t miss

Haggling: The ritual of haggling is obligatory. If you want a bargain, learn how to haggle before you arrive. Even if you’re not fussed on final price, participating in the ritual is important and respectful, so why not make an effort?

A visit to the Vodou section: don’t miss the special section of the market devoted to Haitian Vodou.

Picking up a souvenir: the Iron Market is one of the best places in Haiti to buy souvenirs. Here, you browse a huge variety of handicrafts from all over the country, all in one place.

Straw hats on display at the Merch en Fer Iron Market, Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Straw hats on display at the Iron Market, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

Also known as the Marché Hyppolite, Marché Vallières and Marché en Fer (that’s en Fer rather than de Fer), Marché en Fer lies west of the Bel Air district of Port-au-Prince, about half a mile north of Champ de Mars, not too far north of the Pacot district, a favorite with tourists visiting Haiti.

If you’re using Google Maps to get here, look for “Iron Market” rather than any of the alternative names.

Written by Jean Fils.

Published July 2019

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External Links

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Things to do in Port-au-Prince

What to do in Montrouis, Haiti

June 23, 2019 by admin

Boats and people swimming on the beach at Wahoo Bay, Cotes des Arcadins, Haiti, with mountains in the background — Wahoo Beach, Arcadins Coast, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

What to do in Montrouis

Close to the edge of the Ouest and Artibonite departments, this unhurried town is the hub of the Arcadins Coast, a picturesque stretch of white-sand beaches home to most of Haiti’s resorts.

Montrouis is en route if you have a reservation at Royal Decameron, Moulin sur Mer or Kaliko Beach. Just over an hour’s drive northwest of the capital Port-au-Prince, Montrouis is also the first stop on the way to the mostly undeveloped plains of Artibonite.

Montrouis supplies a large part of all seafood eaten in Haiti, and is a popular destination for leisure fishing. One of the resorts, Moulin sur Mer, houses the Ogier-Fombrun museum, which offers visitors a glimpse into the pre-colonial history of Haiti up to 1794.

Go snorkelling at Moulin sur Mer

For all that the resorts on the Arcadins Coast contrast with the undeveloped and unspoilt beaches lining the rest of Haiti’s generous coastline, they offer tourists a very accessible way to enjoy another one of the natural treasures of the area: snorkelling.

Experienced snorkelers will find a wealth of seascapes to explore right around Haiti, but even beginners can dive into snorkelling at Monstrouis, thanks to a gentle introduction on offer at the Moulin sur Mer resort.

It is no secret that coral reefs around the world are suffering. The healthy, well-preserved reefs off the coast of Arcadins should not be seen as evidence counter to this trend, but as a fragile treasure that reminds us what we stand to lose if we don’t do our best to be reef-conscious travellers, and conscious consumers when we get back home.

People swimming and sitting on the side of the water pools at Kay Piat, Montrouis, Haiti — Water pools at Kay Piat, Montrouis
Photo: Franck Fontain

Get your breath taken away – literally and figuratively – with a hike to Kay Piat

In the mountains east of Montrouis, Kay Piat is something of an oasis in a desert. The two-hour-plus hike is steep and strenuous, but you’ll be rewarded with access to a lush sanctuary that very few from the outside world have seen.

The path to the summit intersects with a strong river, teeming with watercress and swelling out in places into crystal clear swimming holes, glittering in the sunlight that filters through the dense canopy of Kay Piat. Don’t forget to bring your swimsuit!

The village of Kay Piat is home to warm and welcoming people. Hiking to Kay Piat requires joining an organised tour (Marina Blue runs one) or hiring a local guide. Either way, it’s a good idea to bring small bills with you, ready to pay the entry fee to the oasis and to buy refreshments. The friendly people of Kay Piat survive on modest livelihoods and the arduous drive and hike to the location means that local and tourist traffic through the township are both thin, making the locals all the more in need of any tourist dollars you bring. Be open to negotiate with the person supervising the payments; there is always a way to reach a comfortable middle ground.

The hike is best done in the morning.

Gorge on seafood and specialty candy

Travellers who drive straight through Montrouis miss out on a local speciality: creole cuisine called lalo – the signature dish of Artibonite.

Driving into the township from the south, foot traffic swells with men and women carrying produce in baskets and old rice sacks. Just outside of town, colorful kiosks line the road, most of them serving up plates of rice, beans and lalo.

Also called Egyptian spinach and West African sorrel, lalo is the local name for jute. In the US and Europe, jute might be better known as a source of rope fibre, but here in Haiti (and across most of Africa and Asia) it is more widely used in cooking.

Lalo is the magic that happens when fresh, bright jute leaves are picked off of the plant and stewed with spinach, onions, peppers, and garlic as well as creole-seasoned cuts of beef. As the flavors mingle in the pot, the jute and spinach leaves grow soft, dark, and flavorful.

Setting itself apart from lalo available throughout the province – and making it especially worth stopping to try – Montrouis lalo is made with freshly caught sea crabs. With the help of the hot stew and steam inside the pot, the broken crab shells and legs turn a vivid pink, lending the dish a heightened, warming flavor which mingles wonderfully with earthy black bean sauce and light-as-air white rice.

“It’s hard work, but people keep coming back,” one vendor says. She takes a small break from spooning rice into Styrofoam plates, but just as quickly, a young woman comes from the back kitchen to pick up the slack. “I have regular customers who will come from the fancy resorts because they love the lalo here.” The evidence is in front of us while we chat – the cars parked in front of the kiosks have license plates ranging from rentals, to personal cars, to state-owned vehicles. It seems like everyone in the know makes time to stop in Montrouis for a plate of Lalo.

For desert, treat yourself to a tablèt nwa, a delicious candied cashew bar, or tablèt pistach, a candied peanut bar. Don’t miss the wonderfully decadent dous makòs, a tri-colored milk fudge bar. You’ll find all of these sold by the side of the street.

A tray full of specialty Haitian sweets: Tablèt pistach and dous kokoye — Tablèt pistach and dous kokoye
Photo: Franck Fontain

Need to Know

Montrouis is a popular destination for fishing in Haiti, supplying a large part of all seafood consumed on the coasts as well as inland.

Moulin sur Mer houses the Ogier-Fombrun museum, which retraces the history of Haiti from the Indian era up until the colonial times – specifically, 1794.

Guided visits – the best way to explore Kay Piat, since trail signage isn’t great, and because local guides can negotiate on your behalf to keep costs down.

Must-Try Flavors

Lalo – jute leaf and spinach stew served with white rice and black or red bean sauce.

Tablèt nwa – delicious candied cashew bar, sold by the side of the street.

Tablèt pistach – delicious candied peanut bar, sold by the side of the street.

Dous makòs – tri-colored milk fudge bar, sold by the side of the street.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published June 2019

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Raymond les Bains

May 10, 2019 by admin

haitians relaxing and dining at table with parasols by beach — Raymond les Bains, Cayes-Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Raymond les Bains

Just a few hours’ south of Port-au-Prince, the colorful city of Jacmel is best known for its beautiful, expansive beaches. Raymond les Bains is a local favorite, and an attraction not to be missed if you’re in Jacmel. You’ll find a mile-long stretch of soft white sand, framed by palm trees and mountains in the distance.

Like most of the beaches lining Haiti’s stunning southern coast, Raymond les Bains has a nice, gradual slope into the water and soft, smooth sand. On bright, sunny days (Jacmel sees 230 a year) Raymond les Bains is a textbook example of a Caribbean paradise.

Raymond les Bains is also a popular night time attraction. There is a lot more music, more to drink, and the atmosphere is much more fit for dancing and meeting new people! If you are lucky, you might even catch a full moon reflected on the Caribbean Sea.

Don’t miss: the freshly-grilled fish

For seafood lovers, the highlight of Raymond les Bains might be the food. Grilled fish is a local specialty and the menu is teeming with options.

To order, visitors can take a seat at any table on the beach. Expect to be approached by merchants selling all sorts – gum, drinks, snacks, jewellery – but keep an eye for the waiter or waitress at the restaurant. Our top tip is to ask to see the fish before you settle on your order; different price points get you different fish; and even at a specific price point, you still get to pick from a variety of fish.

You can ask if there is a choice of accompaniment for the fish; most places offer the standard fried plantains or fried potatoes. Depending on the season, you might even find fried breadfruit – a Caribbean delicacy not to be missed. This fried tropical staple provides a crisp, savory contrast to mouth-watering freshly-grilled fish, elevating what sounds like a simple, everyday dish to a memorable island experience.

Getting there

8 miles east of downtown Jacmel, Raymond les Bains is en route to Cayes-Jacmel and Marigot.

Look out for the “Bienvenue à Raymond les Bains” signage on the right side of the road. From there, the road dips and narrows down a sandy path flanked by small houses on the left, and the sound of slow waves crashing on the beach on the right. Continue on until you reach the gate – and gatekeepers.

Because it is a public beach cleaned and maintained by the locals, Raymond les Bains is gated, and does require a small fee to enter. Expect to pay at least 100 HTG per car. Once that is taken care of, you will be asked to enter and park your car off to the side.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published May 2019

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