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Your Ultimate Guide to Haitian Nightlife

haitian nightclub with guests sitting at tables
The Backyard Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

Where to Party: Your Guide to Haitian Nightlife

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You’ve walked through the busy streets of Port-au-Prince, treated your tastebuds to Creole street food, poked around the artist collectives and squeezed in a stroll through Champ-des-Mars. Now it’s time to party the night away, Haitian style.

Here are the best places to get a taste of Haitian nightlife, according to a local.

haitian girl with long braids smiling in dancing crowd
Fubar, Pétion-Ville, Haiti
Photo: Fubar

01. Fubar, Pétion-Ville

Ask anyone who’s a seasoned party-goer in Pétion-Ville, and “Fubar” comes up every single time. With events nearly every day of the week, it’s one of the most popular spots in the city. We recommend: their Flashback Friday parties. Normally 500 Haitian Gourdes, entry is free before 10pm.

02. Brasserie Quartier Latin, Pétion-Ville

Ask anyone who’s a seasoned party-goer in Pétion-Ville, and “Fubar” comes up every single time. With events nearly every day of the week, it’s one of the most popular spots in the city. We recommend: their Flashback Friday parties. Normally 500 Haitian Gourdes, entry is free before 10pm.

03. Le Coin des Artistes – Vivano, Pétion-Ville

Port-au-Prince is famous for fresh seafood, and Le Coin des Artistes is one restaurant that always lives up to the reputation! Find all of your seafood favorites, with a side of live music, nearly every day of the week, right in the heart of Pétion-Vile. We recommend: their Jazz Thursdays.

Group eating dinner at Yanvalou in Pacot, Haiti
Yanvalou in Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

04. Yanvalou, Pacot

If you’re looking for a night out dancing, go no further than Yanvalou. Located in downtown Port-au-Prince, this restaurant by day and nightclub by night is where many devout party-goers go to hit the dancefloor. It attracts a mix of locals and travellers. We recommend: their Live Groove Thursdays.

a restored old colonial house with many decorative details
Gingerbread Restaurant, Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

05. Gingerbread, Pacot

Another lovely spot in Pacot, Gingerbread is famed for its delectable cuisine. If you are looking for an evening out in a stunning setting (without breaking the bank) this is the place to go! We recommend: their cocktails, and if you’re in the mood for a dollop of dessert, their Panna Cotta Creole.

haitian restaurant with many guests dining
Magdoos, Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

06. Magdoos, Pétion-Ville

A favorite among the younger crowd in Port-au-Prince, Magdoos is known for its great middle eastern food, hookahs, and great music. A good tip is to make sure that you make it there early in the night so that you’re not pressed for space! We recommend: their $5 Wednesdays.

haitian nightclub with guests sitting at tables
The Backyard Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

07. The Backyard, Pétion-Ville

For an atmospheric bar experience in Port-au-Prince, head to The Backyard. With the down-to-earth decor, they offer an extensive beer and liquor selection, great music, and often host popular soccer games. During hot Haitian summer nights, it’s thronged with locals and visitors and full of good vibes. We recommend: all weekend long!

interior of dining area at restaurant with bar
Harry’s, Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

08. Harry’s, Pétion-Ville

A staple of nightlife in Pétion-Ville, Harry’s is one of those inescapable destinations. It is open pretty late, making it a popular for partygoers in need of late-night grub. If you happen to be in the area, make sure to stop for some food between bar hops! We recommend: their kibby – a creole dish that’s kind of like a cross between meatballs and arancini.

people seated in dining area inside a restaurant
Boukanye, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Boukanye

09. Boukanye, Cap-Haitien

If you happen to be in Cap-Haïtien, Boukanye is one of the places you must visit; the bar’s decor is heavily reminiscent of pirate ships, making for a memorable experience! Located on the Boulevard, it’s an excellent place to find live music and cocktails. We recommend: looking out for their weekend events!

people seated at tables dining outside a restaurant
People dining outside Lakay Restaurant, Cap-Haïtien
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Lakay, Cap-Haïtien

If you are looking for great food in Cap-Haïtien, go no further than Lakay; it’s one of the best places to get local grub. They also host weekend events, but they’re announced rather than regular – look them up during the week to see what’s coming up. We recommend: their lanbi with rice and beans!

Street art on the outside of the Alliance Francaise building in Jacmel, Haiti
Alliance Française, Jacmel
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

11. Alliance Française, Jacmel

For great food in Jacmel, Alliance Française is the place to go. While they do host cultural events and vernissages, they are more famous for their food, which is some of the most sought-after in the city. We recommend: their vegetable penne!

entrance to le belvedere nightclub in jacmel
Le Belvedere nightclub in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

12. Le Belvedère, Jacmel

ILooking for nightlife in Jacmel? The party is happening at Le Belvédère. Drinks there are affordable, and the crowd is enthusiastic. We recommend: Friday and Saturday nights!


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published January 2020


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Fort Ogé

fort oge fortress on mountain top with ocean view
Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

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While most of us know the city of Jacmel as the picturesque home of Haitian art, culture, and popular beachfronts, it is also where you’ll find Fort Ogé.

Tiny compared to the towering Citadelle Laferrière, Fort Ogé often gets overlooked when it comes to adventurers’ itineraries, but comparisons aside, this fort is impressive and well worth exploring in its own right.

aerial view fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside
Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

Right around the time Haiti was seizing its independence from the slave-owning colonial upper class, resistance leaders like Jean-Jacques Dessalines ordered the construction of forts all over liberated territories, built to provide safe refuge for the newly freed people and to deter counteroffensives, in case the French returned and tried to retake the island. This era became known as the fortification of Haiti, and Fort Ogé, built in 1804, is one of about 20 military sites fortified during this period. Fort Ogé was named after Vincent Ogé, one of the most popular Haitian revolutionaries.

Fort Ogé was undamaged by the 2010 earthquake and stands strong to this day. Built over two centuries ago, the still-imposing fortress will have you asking “how?” – how did independence leaders know to build a fortress in such a strategic place, and how was it done with the limited tools available at the time? How did they carry multiple heavy canons up the slope to the fortress?

Compared to Citadelle Laferriere, the largest fortress in Haiti (and one of the largest fortresses in all of the Americas), Fort Ogé is not as swamped by tourists, making it a great destination if you came to Haiti looking for an adventure away from the crowds but accidentally found yourself here during peak season.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel
Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Guided tours

The real gem waiting to be discovered when you explore Fort Ogé is the history behind how it was built – hidden to most, but in plain sight for those who know how to look. This is why a personal guided tour is the best way to see the site – local guides can narrate the history of the fort as you explore, right down to the specific uses of the different dungeons.

As is the case at almost every landmark or sightseeing location in Haiti, children run around the site playing, and some members of local committees will most likely come up to greet you and show you around. The site is cared for and used by the residents of the area, as are many other national treasures, to help bridge the gap left behind by the Ministry of Culture. Locals are always ready to give a taste of true Haitian hospitality – which of course includes suggestions for where to get fed, what else you should see during your trip, and where to find the best entertainment.

You’ll find that at times where visitors are few and far between, the fort is an integral part of the townsfolk life; children play soccer there, and old folks wander around. By paying a small entry fee and/or hiring a personal guide, you’ll be contributing to the development of the area through community projects.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside
Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

Located about an hour east of Jacmel, Fort Ogé is close to other historical landmarks including Cap Rouge, as well as other top Haitian destinations like Bassin BleuRaymond le Bains beach and the charming fishing village of Marigot.

The easiest starting point to get to Fort Ogé is the city of Jacmel. If you are driving in your own car, start out towards Cayes-Jacmel. Once reach the Jacmel Airport (it will be on your left), make a left onto Avenue Gerald M. Mathurin. From there, it’s very simple; just follow the signs up to Fort Ogé! The road up to the fort is quite rough, though, and so your drive will be much more successful in a four-wheel drive vehicle.

If you do not have a car, don’t worry— you can still make it to the fort by moto! At the corner of the Jacmel Airport, you will find a throng of moto drivers, ready to go. The fee to get to the fort should be 500 HTG, and this should include your driver waiting for you at the fort— and therefore receiving payment from you when you are back in the city. Make sure to pick out a moto that can handle the rocky road and sharp inclines!


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published December 2019


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Ten of the Best Books about Haiti

A woman wearing a bikini relaxes in a window holding a book
Relaxing in a window in Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

The 10 books you should read before you visit Haiti

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Did you know that in Haitian vodou, a healer and a sorcerer are two completely different things? There are so many things to learn about Haitian culture and history that sometimes, the details slip between the fingers. The best way to catch them? Get comfortable with a good book!

Planning a visit to Haiti, or just want a closer understanding of this “land with a soul”? Here are the top 10 books that explore the fascinating history and culture of Haiti.

Masters of the Dew by Jacques Roumain

For those of us who love literature, nothing replenishes our sense of self or our faith in humanity like a good novel. Speaking of humanity, Masters of the Dew by Jacques Roumain, published in 1944 just a few months before the death of its author, is a Haitian literary classic par excellence.

Masters of the Dew is a deeply powerful story of traditional life in rural Haiti, overshadowed by the natural world but illuminated by human struggles. The novel touches on the necessity for a man to confront adversities great and small, from the need for freedom and a future for an entire population, to the need for water, soil and silk. Masters of the Dew is a parable of sorts, and compelling argues that the most beautiful mathematical equation is an addition.

Roumain was deeply invested in politics, and is famous in Haiti for founding one of the nation’s most important institutions for cultural preservation, the National Bureau of Ethnology, as well as resisting American occupation and advocating for Marxism. In fact, it was only thanks to the help of Roumain’s friends in France, André Breton and Aragon (both antifascists and members of the French surrealist movement), that Masters of the Dew was able to see the light of day in France.

We can’t mention Jacques Roumain without introducing another Jacques (and another of Haiti’s great novelists) – Jacques Stephen Alexis.

General Sun, My Brother by Jacques Stephen Alexis

Son of Haitian diplomat and novelist Stephen Alexis (1889–1962), Jacques Stephen Alexis distinguished himself early in life as a brilliant writer and politician. Another outspoken Marxist and close friend of the French surrealists, Jacques Stephen Alexis was already a respected thinker when he published his debut novel, General Sun, My Brother.

The story follows the life of two Haitian laborers from the slums of Port-au-Prince to the cane fields of the Dominican Republic, where they find themselves swept up into one of the most nightmarish moments in the diplomatic history of Hispaniola: the 1937 massacre. Strongly inspired by Roumain’s Masters of the Dew, General Sun, My Brother is a call to action, a refusal of passivity.

In the Flicker of an Eyelid by Jacques Stephen Alexis

Building on the acclaim of his debut novel, In the Flicker of an Eyelid propelled Alexis to his reputation as a genius writer. Another pillar of the Haitian classical canon, In the Flicker of an Eyelid is considered the most beautiful romance novel in Haitian literature. The story begins in a bordello in Port-au-Prince, but don’t let that mislead you – more than just a love story, this novel interweaves lessons about love, doubt, politics, social consciousness, patriotism, and the passage of time.

Rires et Pleurs (Laughs and Cries) by Oswald Durand

If you’re open to poetry and get sentimental about sunsets, reach for Rires et Pleurs (Laughs and Cries)Rires et Pleurs carries in it all of the symbolic weight of a people freshly liberated and on a quest for beauty. Oswald Durand is to poetry what Alexis is to novels.

Les Cinq Lettres by Georges Castera

“It is not with ink that I write to you but with my voice of drums besieged by falling stones”

Has a man loved before like Georges Castera in Les Cinq Lettres? “Love me like a burning house” is the poet’s request in this collection, and if you love French poetry then you and Les Cinq Lettres will get on like a house on fire.

So Spoke the Uncle by Jean Price-Mars

Want to learn more about Haitian culture and identity through a sociological/scientific framework? You’ll want to start with the book that sits at the root of the largest sociocultural movement of the Caribbean and Africa: blackness. In So Spoke the Uncle, Jean Price-Mars preaches a return to Haitan cultural origins. After all, he says, how do we know where we’re going if we don’t know where we come from?

Today, So Spoke the Uncle remains a the go-to reference text for anthropologists consulting the concepts and events crucial to Haiti’s history.

The Equality of Human Races by Anténor Firmin

Long before Price-Mars, Anténor Firmin was writing The Equality of Human Races to show that there was no such thing as race and that black, white, brown, or in between, the human species is one being, united and indivisible. One of the biggest public high schools in Port-au-Prince is named after Firmin.

Peintres Haitiens by Gerard Alexis

Interested in Haitian art? Peintres Haitiens by Gerard Alexis should be right up your alley. With over 300 color reproductions and text including art theory and artists’ biographies, Alexis explores five tenements of Haitian art: portrait and historical paintings, nature and daily life, vodou mysticism and figuration-abstraction.

Voodoo: Search for the Spirit by Laennec Hurbon

And if you want to quench your curiosity for Haitian vodou, we strongly recommend Voodoo: Search for the Spirit by Laennec Hurbon. Neither in-depth study nor lighthearted foray, Voodoo: Search for the Spirit offers an excellent, accessible, practical overview of the topic, enriched by pages and pages of gorgeous full-color photos and excerpts from other literature on vodou.

Haiti: the Aftershocks of History by Laurent Dubois

“As acclaimed historian Laurent Dubois demonstrates, Haiti’s troubled present can only be understood by examining its complex past. The country’s difficulties are inextricably rooted in its founding revolution – the only successful slave revolt in the history of the world; the hostility that this rebellion generated among the surrounding colonial powers; and the intense struggle within Haiti itself to define its newfound freedom and realize its promise.” ― Macmillan

Here’s what the critics say about Haiti: the Aftershocks of History:

“Well-written, authoritative history… enriched by careful attention to what Haitian intellectuals have had to say about their country over the last two centuries.” ―The New York Times Book Review

“A sweeping, passionate history of Haiti… Smart, honest, and utterly compelling, this book is the national biography this country and its people deserve.” ―Boston Globe

“A book as welcome as it is timely: a lucid one-volume history of the nation, from Toussaint to the present, anchored in scholarship but rendered as a comprehensive-but-swift narrative for the general reader.” ―The Nation

“This excellent, engaging history seeks to strip away centuries of mocking and reductive bias. Dubois’s Haiti is a land of ceaseless activity, a ferment of suppression and insurrection exacerbated by the mercenary intrusions of foreign powers–in the past century, chiefly the United States. Dubois also traces a parallel history of bold social experiments on the part of everyday Haitians… Throughout, he makes clear how economic pressures and political crises have left even the county’s better leaders hamstrung, without downplaying their failures in fulfilling Haiti’s great promise.” ―The New Yorker

Read more critics’ reviews for Haiti: the Aftershocks of History.

Bonus:

La Belle Amour Humaine by Lyonel Trouillot

Mon Pays Que Voici by Anthony Phelps

History of Haiti by Suzy Castor. French edition (Haiti Autrement) available online here


Written by Melissa Beralus and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Festikap Kite Festival

three haitian boys flying a kite
Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Festikap Kite Festival

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Picture this: After a week of adventuring across Haiti, from hikes to road-trips to the beach and hidden waterfalls, it’s time to celebrate the new year. You decide to go to Jacmel and watch the fireworks by the beach. The next day, you throw a picnic blanket in the car, drive up to La Vallée, and admire a sky full of kites while you kick back with food and drinks. You can even try your hand at flying a kite yourself, with the help of other participants or the festival organisers. It will take a little less than 300 gourdes (about US $3) to buy a nice kite and participate.

Because you can buy a kite on arrival, the bar for getting involved is pretty low, so Festikap makes a great spontaneous adventure! The festival happens every January 2nd, making it the perfect activity for anyone planning to spend New Year’s Eve in Jacmel (or – even Port-au-Prince).

Festikap vibes are comparable to Champ-de-Mars in February during carnival. Kites in a stunning display of colors and creativity fill the sky for hours on end: it’s a flying art exhibition. With children running around, elders watching and younger folks flying their kites, the atmosphere in La Vallée is like one big camping trip.

Behind the magic

The famous kite-flying festival of La Vallée de Jacmel — or “La Vallée” as locals call it — will be celebrating its 10th anniversary in the coming year. Festikap is a festival put together by the Organization of Young Valley University Students for Progress (Organisation Universitaire de Jeune Valléens pour Le Progrès) with the goal of preserving a tradition deeply rooted in Haitian culture but threatened by forgetfulness and abandonment. This yearly event serves as an entry point to the beautiful community of La Vallée de Jacmel. The celebrations conveniently happen on January 2nd which is a holiday in Haiti (Ancestor’s day).

Kite flying is a vital part of Haitian culture. Starting in the month of April, on the roofs of houses all across the country, children, their parents, and sometimes even their grandparents can be seen tugging on thin, nearly invisible pieces of thread tied up to makeshift kites. Most of them are made of plastic; the kind used to sell papita or roasted peanuts in — some clear, some blue, some pink. Others are more elaborate, made of brown paper with red and green accents, tails, and flourishes. All together, they dot the bright blue skies of early summer in colorful spiraling swarms.

In preparation for Festikap, organizers put together workshops to create a certain number of kites to be exhibited on that day. This festival is not just recreational, though – the preparation process encourages creativity and community engagement from different crowds. The festival hopes to revive interest in the endangered tradition of making and flying kites, and the efforts that go into planning Festikap can be considered as a kind of movement meant to transfer a skill and salvage a tenuous cultural heritage.

haitian boy in blue jeans with kite
Boy with kite at Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

La Vallée is located an hour’s drive northwest of Jacmel and about three hours’ drive southwest of Port-au-Prince. Although the name La Vallée suggests a low valley hidden in shadows, the town actually stands a half mile (around 800 meters) above sea level, and offers a panoramic view of the south of Haiti. A trip up to La Vallée unlocks the perfect experience for anyone hungry for a little bit more than simply spending a weekend at the beach.

Festikap is a great way to experience Haiti differently and genuinely. If colors, music, and community are your thing, it’s a must-visit event to add to your itinerary!


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published October 2019


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PAPJAZZ 2021

jazz concert on big stage in front of large sitting crowd
PAPJazz festival in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Josué Azor

PAPJAZZ 2021

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One of the Caribbean’s leading music festivals, PAPJAZZ is a city-wide event, with over 10 venues across the capital – most of which offer free entry.

The 15th edition is scheduled for 16 – 23 January 2021. 

Also known as the Port-au-Prince International Jazz Festival, PAPJAZZ features outstanding Haitian artists and attracts jazz acts from across the Caribbean, the Americas and Europe. And the audience it draws is just as international.

Bars and restaurants throughout Port-au-Prince turn into venues, and entrance is free at all of them except the Karibe hotel. When you’re not busy enjoying live jazz acts, you can participate in a host of workshops and conference talks held over the week, all designed to explore the diversity of the Caribbean jazz scene.

How to get the most out of PAPJAZZ

Regular venues that play host to the festival include the Karibe hotel, L’Institut Français, Quisqueya University, and Place Boyer. Travellers on a budget take note of the PAPJAZZ shows scheduled for Quisqueya University — entry there is free!

During the festival, these and many more venues also open up for “after hours” events where you can relax in bars, beer gardens, pizzerias, observatories and arboretums, sipping a drink in a dreamy tropical setting with jazz playing in the background. Our tip for “after hours” jazz is Quartier Latin, an excellent restaurant offering sought-after ambience, Caribbean and Latin dining and arguably the best wine list on Hispaniola. What a way to escape the worst of the winter chill!

2021 PAPJAZZ lineup

The last years festivals drew talented artists from all over the world: Cecile Mc Lorin Salvant (US), Terence Blanchard (US), Barbra Lica (Canada), Emile Parisien and DAM’NCO (France), Julian and Roman Wasserfuhr (Germany), Oscar Pizarro (Chile) and Joss Stone (UK).

Haitian artists on stage included BIC, Claude Carré, Paul Beaubrun, Phyllicia Ross, Nina, Fatima, Vanessa Jeudi, Akoustik, Konpa Flashback, Follow Jah, Béatrice Kebreau and many more.

Check the full lineup on the Official PAPJAZZ website!


Written by Jean Fils.

Published October 2019

Updated December 2020


Visit a museum dedicated to Vodou

large museum building decorated with snake paintings
The Bureau of Ethnology, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Visit a museum dedicated to Vodou

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A visit to the Bureau of Ethnology, a museum dedicated to Vodou in Haiti, is one of the top things to do in Port-au-Prince.

Near Champ de Mars at the corner of Rue Magny and Rue Oswald Durand, this museum allows you to get acquainted with Vodou and its place in Haitian society.

This is the best place to begin an exploration of “lwa” and the many rhythms and shades of Vodou. Inside, you’ll find Vodou artifacts, artwork and anecdotes of anthropological research on Vodou (also spelled Vodoun and Vaudou) traditions. Most of the exhibits are described in French.

bronze statue of taino indian in museum courtyard
Taíno statue at The Bureau of Ethnology, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

About the collection

The exterior facades of the National Ethnology Office house a permanent photo exhibition on several aspects of the life and activities of Haitian society: scenes of the Haitian national carnival, Vodou rituals, Vodou-infused folk dance and more. 

The interior offers an equally captivating photo exhibition of scenes of social and cultural customs specific to the Haitian nation, including national costumes and their histories. Haitian artists are also represented here, accompanied by interpretive material (mostly written in French). Key spiritual concepts, from the “lakou mansson” of Léogâne (Haitian Creole: Leyogàn) to the “lakou Badjo, Soukri, Souvenance” of Gonaïves, are depicted together with explanations of their importance in Haitian society.

Founded in 1941 by Haitian novelist Jacques Roumain and run today by Erol Josué, the museum has as its mission the preservation and classification of all anthropological artefacts found on the Haitian side of the island of Hispaniola, including protecting and organising excursions to important archaeological sites. It’s possible for visitors to join some of these – just ask when you get to the museum.

bronze statue of wild boar
Statue at The Bureau of Ethnology, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

Signposted as the Bureau National d’Ethnologie, The Bureau of Ethnology is on the corner of Rue Magny and Rue Oswald Durand, close to Champ de Mars in the heart of downtown Port-au-Prince.


Written by Jean Fils.

Published September 2019


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