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Vodou

From Mermaids to Lougawou: Uncover Haitian Folklore

Vodou practitioner
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

Between Sea and Shadow: The Lore of Haitian Mermaids & Lougawou

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“Krik…! Tim tim…!”

When you hear this captivating call from a Haitian storyteller, prepare to be transported into an incredible world, alive with imagination and steeped in legends. The richness and depth of Haitian tales will surely astonish you. Traditionally narrated around a tree at dusk, in the cozy backdrop of a yard, these stories breathe life into extraordinary characters right before our eyes.

Haitian folklore, an oral tradition at heart, acts as a cultural bridge between generations. It’s a communal experience where the young and old gather to revisit beloved stories, blending magical creatures, historical figures, animals, and mythical places. Through these tales, elders pass down wisdom and life lessons, embedding characters from these narratives into the Haitian collective consciousness as living myths.

So, stay glued to your screen as we dive into the universe of Haitian folklore legends, introducing you to beings like the enchanting Haitian mermaid, the mysterious Maître Minuit, or the legendary lougawou. Be prepared for a journey through a culture where the boundary between the real and the imaginary is as delicate as a veil.

A Haitian mermaid
Illustration: Corine Bond

1. Unveiling the Mystery of the Haitian Mermaid

Meet the mesmerizing La Sirene or Haitian Mermaid, a captivating blend of deity and legend. Revered in Vodou as a potent spirit, she rules the ocean’s depths with her consort, Agwe. Keeper of the sea’s treasures, her allure lies in the mystery and power she wields, making her an object of reverence and caution.

A visit to the island’s shores might reveal why locals leave their gold at home; to wear it is to offer it directly to the Haitian mermaid, who’s known for not needing an invitation to claim what catches her eye.

Few have glimpsed this majestic being, with her flowing hair, by the water’s edge. Her song, a melody that binds the soul, has lured countless into her watery realm, only to return them enriched with the sea’s bounties as they age.

For those daring enough, capturing her golden comb during her seaside repose might earn you a visit in your dreams, where she’s ready to bargain its return for a treasure.

Haitian rainbow
Illustration: Corine Bond

2. A Haitian Rainbow Is More Than Meets the Eye

When you think of a rainbow, you probably picture the beautiful arc of colors in the sky, a simple yet mesmerizing optical phenomenon. Yet, dive into Haitian folklore, and you’ll discover that a rainbow is not just a rainbow. Here, in Haiti a rainbow is actually a colossal serpent, quenching its thirst in the sea after a rainfall.

In Vodou tradition, the rainbow is closely intertwined with the goddess Ayida and her consort, Dambala, the divine pair known for their roles in creation and wisdom. The elders tell tales of how capturing the rainbow’s ‘bonnet’—during a moment of distraction as it drinks from the sea—can make you a fortune, similar to the enchanting narratives about the Haitian Mermaid.

Bouki & Ti Malice
Illustration: Corine Bond

3. Bouki and Ti Malice, The Dynamic Duo of Haitian Folklore

If you pride yourself on being a bit of a trickster, wait until you hear about Bouki and Ti Malice. These two are the embodiment of “thick as thieves,” proving that no evening of tales under the Haitian stars is complete without their shenanigans.

Ti Malice, the name gives it away, doesn’t it? He’s the mastermind of mischief, always a step ahead with a prank up his sleeve. Bouki, his loyal companion, often finds himself on the bumbling end of these escapades, earning the title of the loveable fool. In Haiti Creole, being called a Bouki is akin to being dubbed the class clown – it’s all in good fun, but you might want to check for whoopee cushions before you sit down.

Their stories aren’t just for laughs; they’re stitched into the fabric of Haitian education. From classroom lessons to bedtime stories, the adventures of Bouki and Ti Malice teach valuable lessons wrapped in humor and wit, making them unforgettable characters in Haitian folklore.

Mèt Minwi
Illustration: Corine Bond

4. Mèt Minwi: The Giant of Haitian Nights

As night falls, tread carefully, for Mèt Minwi (the Master of Midnight) watches over the crossroads. Haitian folklore is a tapestry woven with magic and chilling tales, among which Mèt Minwi stands tall—literally. This enigmatic figure, so tall his head is lost in the clouds, has been the subject of whispers among those who claim to have seen him blocking paths in the dead of night. 

A guardian or a specter, his origins are as mysterious as his motives. Yet, the stories agree on one thing: Mèt Minwi’s towering presence is enough to deter the most daring from their nocturnal wanderings. How he came to be a fixture of Haitian folklore’s horror stories is anyone’s guess, but his legend keeps the adventurous well away from crossroads after dark.

Haitian zombie
Illustration: Corine Bond

5. Zombies

Zombies may sound like Hollywood’s favorite horror trope, but in Haiti, they’re part of a much deeper story. Since the U.S. marines set foot in Haiti in during the 1915 occupation, the world’s been captivated by tales of Haitian zombies, sparking imaginations and even movie plots. But let’s get one thing straight: Hollywood’s undead have little in common with the real deal in Haitian folklore.

In the heart of Haitian culture, a zombie isn’t just a walking dead. It’s more about the spirit than the flesh. These zombies are living people under the influence of a powerful sorcerer who’s nabbed their spirit, not brain-hungry ghouls rising from graves. The real fear? Not getting munched on by a zombie, but the chilling thought that a sorcerer might snatch your spirit away and enslave you. 

So next time you’re watching a zombie flick, remember: In Haiti, zombies are not about the horror of the undead, but the power of the unseen, and the battle for one’s spirit.

Lougawou
Illustration: Corine Bond

6. Beware of the Lougawou

Ever stumbled upon the term lougawou? Coming from the French expression loupgarou (meaning werewolf) though the Haitian lougawou is not the kind you see in movies, all fangs and fur under the full moon. By day, a lougawou blends in with everyone else, but as night falls, they transform, not into a typical wolf, but into a feathered creature that takes to the skies in search of… well, let’s just say you wouldn’t want to be on their itinerary.

In Haiti, it’s said every neighborhood has its lougawou, often an unsuspecting elderly woman by day. These stories aren’t just to scare kids; they’re a cherished part of Haitian folklore, blending the lines between the real and the mystical.

Now, you might be thinking, ‘How do you keep a flying lougawou at bay?’ Glad you asked! It’s simple – cedar trees. That’s right, planting cedar trees around your yard (or lakou as we say here) is the traditional lougawou repellent. Apparently, they can’t stand the scent.

Additionally, the Haitian cultural tradition of beny chans, a herbal bath believed to offer protection and good luck, is especially used to safeguard kids from being taken by lougawous.

If this article sparked your curiosity and you’d like to dive deeper into the magic of Haitian folklore, here are some recommendations:


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2024


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The True Story of Haitian Zombies (Insights from an Insider)

Visualization of a Haitian zombie
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Insights from an Insider: Discover the True Story of Haitian Zombies

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Embarking on a journey means stepping away from the familiarity of home, venturing into unknown territories, and experiencing profound transformations—not just in our surroundings but within ourselves as well.

The story you’re about to read might feel a bit like that. It’s a journey into the heart of Haitian culture, where you’ll encounter one of the most mystifying and misunderstood aspects of its folklore: the zombie.

What comes to mind when you hear the word “zombie”? These terrifying, flesh-eating creatures have become staples of horror films and video games over the past few decades. From the seminal 1968 film Night of the Living Dead to the modern phenomena of The Walking Dead series and games like Resident Evil, zombies have firmly entrenched themselves in global pop culture.

However, many are unaware that the zombie myth originated right here in Haiti. In fact, the word itself is a Haitian Creole word. And though the Hollywood portrayal of zombies is far removed from the original Haitian myth, they all owe their heritage to Haiti, and in particular to the former enslaved people of the island.

So, how did this myth evolve into an important part of global pop culture, becoming a collective cultural touchstone recognized worldwide?

To give you the true story, we’re going to have to go back in time—not just to the 1980s, where the most recent global fascination with zombies started. We’re going all the way back to the 17th and 18th centuries.

Grave at a cemetery
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Origins of the Zombie Myth

The history of zombies in Haiti dates back to the 17th and 18th centuries, during the era of Saint-Domingue, a colony brutally ruled by France. French colonialists forcibly brought enslaved Africans to work on sugar plantations, subjecting them to inhumane and extreme conditions. The death rate was so high that half of the enslaved brought from Africa died within a few years, prompting the French to continually replenish their labor force with new captives. This era of brutal exploitation and the pervasive fears and beliefs of the enslaved people sowed the seeds of what would evolve into the modern myth of the zombie.

Zombies are a significant yet singular aspect of Haitian folklore, akin to the roles of boogeymen or vampires in Western stories. The nocturnal world of Haitian legends is populated with myriad entities, each reflecting deeper social and spiritual beliefs. Among these are hairless pigs, believed to be the incarnations of powerful secret societies that patrol the night, bloodthirsty Lougawous, and the towering Mèt Minwi, which you can read more about here. 

Within this landscape teeming with mythical creatures, the concept of the zombie was born—a concept deeply intertwined with cultural beliefs inherited from Africa. The Haitian word “zonbi” is believed to derive from the Kikongo word “nzumbi,” which translates to ‘soul’ or ‘spirit of the dead.’ This origin highlights a profound Haitian fear of soul theft—a fate believed to be worse than death itself.

Visualization of a Haitian zombie
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Misinterpretations by Western Media

Though Haitian folklore is replete with mystical creatures, it was the zombie that captured Hollywood’s imagination and achieved global fame. This fascination began during the long U.S. invasion and occupation of Haiti, starting in 1915, when returning soldiers and journalists brought home exotic stories from the Caribbean island. Their tales painted Haiti as both an exotic and savagely mystical land, a portrayal that captivated the American public.

The 1929 best-selling travel book, The Magic Island, played a pivotal role in shaping American perceptions of Haitian culture. The book introduced the concept of the Haitian zombie to American pop culture, setting the stage for a slew of sensationalized and exploitative adaptations. The most notable of these was the 1932 movie White Zombie.

The early fascination with zombies also sparked a wave of scientific and literary interest. Anthropologist Zora Neale Hurston, influenced by the story she read in The Magic Island, traveled to Haiti in 1936 to study Haitian Vodou and folklore. Her subsequent book, Tell My Horse, delves into the magical realism of Haiti and chronicles her exploration of the centuries-old belief in zombies. 

Although some critics dismissed her accounts as urban fiction, Hurston’s work highlighted the deep connection between zombies and Haitian folklore. She revealed that local sorcerers, known as bokors, could allegedly use a secret potion to impair individuals’ vital and cerebral functions, transforming them into the living dead, similar to the zombies of Haitian lore.

From this exploration, a real hunt for zombies in Haiti began, attracting numerous researchers in search of the infamous zombie powder. Each new book and hype cycle tended to focus on sensationalized, exotic stories or on debunking myths. This trend continued with works like the 1988 book The Serpent and the Rainbow, later adapted into a film, and even a 2012 VICE documentary titled Investigating the Haitian Zombie, which was at best disrespectful and superficial.

Despite these interpretations, the zombie remains an integral part of our Haitian cultural landscape. Zombies feature in our storytelling, carnival celebrations, proverbs, religious practices, and even our Penal Code.

As Zora Neale Hurston vividly notes, “in Haiti, stories of zombies spread and circulate like a cold breeze.” Even a short stay here is enough to hear the chilling tales of corpses stolen at dusk and the dead brought back to life for servile labor. These stories, steeped in the realities of past oppressions and current fears, continue to shape the Haitian understanding of life, death, and beyond.

Dawn at cemetery
Photo: Alain David Lescouflair

Demystifying the Haitian Zombie

Contrary to the portrayal in Western popular culture, in Haiti, a zombie is primarily a living human being whose mental faculties have been severely altered. In Haitian society, it’s common to metaphorically describe someone with diminished mental capabilities or who shows laziness as behaving like a zombie. This is reflected in the popular Creole saying, “si m ap mache tèt atè sa pa vle di m zombi pour sa” (meaning “if I’m walking with my head down, it doesn’t make me a zombie”).

Delving deeper into Haitian beliefs and traditions reveals the significant role of salt in zombie mythology. Being a zombie in Haitian culture is often seen as a condition where a person remains constantly under the control of a Bokor or sorcerer. The Bokor must regularly administer a special potion to keep their victim in an unconscious state and maintain control. Salt is known as one of the antidotes to this state; it is believed that a zombie who tastes salt will regain their senses, as the Haitian proverb goes: “zonbi goute sel li pa mande rete” (a zombie who tastes salt will not ask to stay). 

Zombies as Symbols of Resistance

In Haitian popular culture, the portrayal of zombies creates a powerful symbolic representation of the servitude relationship between the zombie and its creator. This relationship mirrors the master-slave dynamics of the colonial period, where death was often seen as a merciful escape from the brutal realities of forced labor.

Moreover, zombification is considered by some as a form of resistance against slavery. It is a strategy that was purportedly employed by secret societies formed by runaway enslaved individuals. These groups, drawing on their extensive knowledge of botany, developed poisons and remedies. Beyond the horrifying practice of poisoning newborns to spare them the horrors of slavery, it is believed that zombification was also used by some enslaved people as a means to escape from plantations.

Zombie Folklore vs. Reality

The enduring fascination with the zombies of Haitian folklore, and the extensive scientific research it has inspired, stem largely from a Western desire to demystify what are, for the Haitian people, deeply intimate beliefs. In Haiti, as well as for their African ancestors, death—whether natural or induced—is not the end but a journey that may be fraught with complications.

When Haitians talk about zombies, Lougawou, and hairless pigs with the casualness of discussing the weather, it reflects a cultural familiarity with these concepts, rather than a need to unravel them. They fear not the mystery of zombie powder, but the real possibility of losing their souls’ essence, having witnessed “revenants”—those who return as mere shadows of their former selves—and thus, they accept the reality of zombies.

This deep connection between the Haitian imagination, Vodou, African cultural heritage, and the traumatic legacy of slavery explains the pervasive presence of zombies in Haitian life. A zombie symbolizes more than just a spectral figure; it embodies the fears of a people subdued by broken promises, the enforcement of contracts through the dread of supernatural retribution, and even a fiancé’s fear of breaking a commitment, lest he finds himself ensnared in mystical retribution, trapped in a bottle or lost in a cornfield.

Zora Neale Hurston poignantly concluded that the key to understanding zombies lay not in finding a secret potion or in debunking another people’s mythology. It was actually believing in them. “If you could twist your brain into seeing that fact, then you had taken a giant step toward seeing Haiti—and most importantly, its spirituality—from the inside.”


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published July 2024.


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Rhythms and Rituals at Lakou Soukri’s Vodou Festival

Ritual bath at Lakou Soukri Vodou festival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Rhythms and Rituals at Lakou Soukri’s Vodou Festival

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Located deep in Haiti’s Artibonite Department, Lakou Soukri annually emerges as the epicenter of a festival deeply rooted in Vodou culture, renowned for its spiritual significance and sense of community.

Despite its rich traditions, Vodou frequently encounters misunderstandings and stereotypes that veil its authenticity.

What essential truths does Lakou Soukri’s festival reveal about Vodou?

Our visit to the Lakou aimed to uncover the heart of the festival, drawing us into a celebration marked by dance, offerings, and communal spirit. This journey through the festival showcases Vodou steeped in tradition, devotion, and a deep bond with the natural and spiritual realms, transcending widespread misconceptions.

Gathering at the Lakou Soukri Vodou Festival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

What is a lakou?

In the heart of Haitian cultural traditions lies the lakou, more than just a space, it’s a cornerstone of community and spirituality. Long before cities, neighborhoods, and municipalities, there were lakou. This social organization resembles the communal essence of African villages, serving as a nurturing ground for education, devotion, and the preservation of Vodou traditions. Central to each lakou is the poto mitan, a symbolic pillar connecting the community to their ancestors and the spiritual world.

Leadership within a lakou comes from the Houngan (Vodou priest) or Mambo (Vodou priestess), who are not only spiritual guides but also serve as healers and community organizers. Their role is critical in maintaining the social fabric and spiritual health of their community, whether they’re natives or newly initiated members.

One notable lakou, Soukri Danach, stands out for its historical significance and its annual festival that attracts a diverse crowd. This event embodies the communal and spiritual vitality of the lakou, highlighting its role in Haitian society.

The Ancient Echoes of Lakou Soukri Danache

Lakou Soukri Danache is a beacon among Haiti’s spiritual landscapes, heralded as one of three pivotal spiritual sites. Its roots are said to stretch back before Haiti’s own emergence as a nation, entwining with the histories of Lakou Souvenance and Badjo to form a sacred trinity, each guardian to a unique Vodou rite. Soukri, in particular, vibrates with the Congo rite, a living homage to the ancestral traditions of Congolese slaves, in contrast to Souvenance’s alignment with the Dahomey kingdom rites of Benin.

The lore of its inception ties back to Zinzin Figaro, revered as the first to lead the lakou. Soukri’s history is rich with tales of refuge for maroon slaves from Congo, seeking solace and freedom in the heart of Haiti’s struggle for independence.

Sprawling across two and a half hectares, Soukri Danache is a tapestry of dwellings, plantations, and families, thriving on agriculture and livestock yet bound by a profound spiritual legacy. Annually, this lakou calls back its children, those born within and those initiated under its shade, in a pilgrimage that reaffirms the unbroken connection to their spiritual and cultural heritage.

Ritual bath at Lakou Soukri
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Sacred Rituals & Soulful Gatherings

Embraced by the call to return, the children of Lakou Soukri converge to celebrate their rich heritage in a festival that spans over two weeks. During this period, the lakou is brimming with activities that touch the essence of Vodou: from rhythmic dance to solemnity of ceremonies, offerings, and ritual baths.

As dusk settles on August 14th, the sacred grounds of the temple, known as Soba, come alive with anticipation. This night is reserved for Met Kafou, the Vodou loa (meaning Vodou spirit) seen as the custodian of crossroads, a symbol of choices, paths, and the intersections of life and the spiritual realm. The assembled, both initiated and intrigued, are led by figures of spiritual authority through the gates to the temple, engaging in prayers that seek blessings from the loas, reinforcing the bonds of unity and shared existence.

The crescendo arrives the day after, on August 15th, with a grand Vodou ceremony. Adorned in white, symbolizing purity and openness, participants gather at designated sanctuaries within the lakou. The day’s ceremonies begin with prayers, drumming, and ritual sacrifices — roosters by the gate, goats within the Soba, and a bull near an ancient tree known as Palan Ganga, each act deepening the spiritual ambiance.

If you find the idea of animal offerings unsettling, know that for believers, this is a ritual rooted in reciprocity and the maintenance of cosmic balance.

Preparations at Lakou Soukri Vodou Festival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Following these poignant moments, attention shifts to the Basin Inan for a ritual bath honoring the loa Manbo Inan. Surrounded by towering trees, this natural pool witnesses a mesmerizing ceremony of intensive drumming, dancing, and singing, culminating when the loa, believed to dwell in these waters, materializes. The initiated, now in a state of possession, leap frantically into the pool in a display of faith and ecstasy.

This extraordinary scene not only offers a glimpse into the profound spirituality of Vodou but also allows pilgrims to seek blessings by collecting water from this sacred site.

The days that follow are filled with dances and ceremonies at various spirit resting places, each moment deepening the communal and spiritual connections. The festival concludes with a universal salutation to the cardinal points, a final act of unity and reverence, encapsulating the profound journey of return and celebration that is the Lakou Soukri festival.

A break between ceremonies at Vodou Festival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

When to Experience the Magic of Soukri

The enchanting Soukri festival unfolds annually from August 14th until the early days of September. This timeframe, bridging the warm summer and the onset of fall, creates an ideal setting for the night dances and sumptuous feasts characteristic of Vodou celebrations, all while avoiding the season’s heavy rains.

Getting there

The lakou is located a few kilometers north of Gonaïves. The simplest route is to take a tap-tap or a motorcycle taxi from the city, heading towards the locality of Mapou and then continuing towards Soukri. As you approach, remember the profound respect this lakou commands among its keepers, thus, approaching it with mindfulness and respect for its spiritual significance is essential.

Want to make an offering?

To immerse yourself in the festival’s spirit, consider bringing an offering. For specific guidance, an initiate can advise on what’s most appropriate for each ceremony. Commonly, a bottle of Haitian rum serves as a welcome gift. When you present this to the Lakou’s servant for the Loas’ table, it signifies your participation in a tradition of generosity. Witnessing this, you might also experience, as do the initiates and pilgrims, the profound generosity of the loas in return.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published April 2024.


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Your Ultimate Guide to Carnival in Haiti

Carnival costumes, Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Your Ultimate Guide to Carnival in Haiti

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Carnival in Haiti is not just a festival, it’s a cultural institution that runs deep in the veins of its people. For Haitians, music is a way of life and during Carnival, it’s like the whole country comes alive in a rainbow of colors, sounds, and rhythms. 

But it’s not just about the party – Carnival is a transformative experience that shakes things up and inspires change. 

So, read on to learn about what makes Carnival in Haiti so special, and who knows, maybe even plan your own trip to join the celebration!

Carnival costumes in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

A brief History of Carnival in Haiti

Let’s start from the beginning; the tradition of the Carnival (or kanaval as it’s written in Haitian Creole) in Haiti started during the colonial period in the bigger cities such as Port-au-PrinceCap-Haïtien, and Jacmel. At that time, the enslaved people were not allowed to participate. Slave owners wanted to deprive the people of as much as possible, particularly things associated with the lifestyle of Haiti’s white, slave-owning elite.

But the enslaved people staged their own mini-carnivals in their backyards and areas. With costumes made of rags and their skin painted with ashes and grease they imitated and ridiculed the slavemasters. This practice gave birth to one of the country’s oldest traditions, that of the Lansèt Kòd. Learn more about this iconic figure of the Haitian collective imagination.

The carnival has evolved over the decades to become a national holiday and Haiti’s most important cultural event. Today the atmosphere can be described as that of massive street parties, but it’s also an open-air showcase of artistic creations and craftsmanship.

Beyond the celebrations, the food, alcohol, and music, the Haitian Carnival also has a political aspect. The festival provides an opportunity for Haitians to express their popular grievances, through the costumes, the lyrics of the meringues and the songs that are played. The lyrics often contain demands and allegories of social life, which are delivered with the rhythm of the music and at full volume. And many costumes and carnival characters are made as satires and comments on current events.

Carnival characters, Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Colorful Costumes and Surprising Characters

If you ever find yourself at Carnival in Haiti (and believe us, you should) the first thing that’ll catch your eye is the stunning costumes worn by the carnival troupes. Made from papier-mâché, these outfits bring to life the country’s flora and fauna with bright colors and intricate designs. You’ll see everything from exotic birds like parrots and toucans to costumes inspired by the island’s colonial past.

But the costumes aren’t the only thing that makes the Haitian Carnival so special. The festival is also home to a wide range of colorful characters, both real and fictional. You might come across a larger-than-life portrayal of Barak Obama and Vladimir Putin or a whimsical depiction of Cholera or COVID-19. And don’t forget the historical figures, like the heroes of Haitian independence and the Taíno Indians, the island’s first inhabitants.

Each costume and character at the Haitian Carnival has a unique story to tell, representing different aspects of the country’s culture, history, and folklore. Looking to dive deeper into the fascinating world of the Haitian Carnival? Check out this visual guide, where we unpack the history and rich meanings behind the colorful costumes from Jacmel Carnival.

Carnival participants dancing, Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Carnival Music, Beats and Rhythms

The music of the Haitian Carnival is a unique blend of European and African influences, creating a sound that is both lively and expressive, composed of percussion, bamboo instruments, trumpets, and accordions. At the heart of the carnival is the Rara, a traditional bann a pye (literally “bands on foot” or marching band) that is closely tied to the practice of Vodou. 

In addition to Rara, the carnival is also influenced by other more modern music genres like the well-known compas, Creole rap, roots music, and raboday, which is a popular music genre that emerged in the mid-2000s. This genre is based on a traditional music style called “Rasin“, which mixes Vodou rhythms with modern pop-rock music. Raboday is often characterized by its energetic beats and heavy use of percussion, and it’s a favorite during carnival season and at dance parties all around Haiti. And last but not least, let’s not forget the meringue – one of the most popular styles of Haitian music you’ll hear during carnival.

Kleren vendor in Jérémie
Photo: Franck Fontain

Carnival flavors not to miss

Beignets
A staple of the Haitian kanaval tradition, beignets are a must-try delicacy during the carnival season in Haiti. Unlike traditional beignets, which are usually puffed fried batter, Haitian beignets are flat and made with bananas. 

These delicious small treats have a similar appearance to mini crêpes but with a crunchy texture and are sprinkled with a generous amount of sugar. Don’t miss out on the chance to taste these sweet treats, as they are not commonly found outside of the carnival season.

Kleren
Another local flavor to try during carnival is “trampe” – a variety of the locally produced moonshine known as kleren (or clairin for French and English speakers). This type of artisanal rhum has a centuries-old tradition in Haiti and is an important part of the country’s culture. Trampe refers to kleren that has been macerated for weeks or even months with local fruits and spices, resulting in unique and flavorful blends.

During the carnival, you’ll find street vendors offering big jugs of kleren with various flavors and promises of health benefits and aphrodisiac properties. There are plenty of popular local trampe flavors to choose from, such as Kenep, which has a subtle sweetness from the Haitian fruit also known as quenepe or limoncello.

Bwa kochon is another popular flavor, infused with bark, wood, and leaves for an extra strong and earthy taste. Grenadya is a tangy and sweet flavor made with passion fruits, while Lanni is a sweet trampe infused with cinnamon, star anise, or fennel.

Carnival goers in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

When is Carnival in Haiti

Carnival in Haiti is not a one-day event, as you might know it from other countries. In fact, it spans from January to the big parade during the Trois Jours Gras (three fat days) in February or March. Throughout the season, there are festivities and celebrations held every Sunday in many of the major cities in Haiti.

Whether you’re an art enthusiast, or maybe just want to party it up, there are several destinations you can choose from to experience it all.

Where to Experience the Haitian Kanaval

Jacmel
Jacmel’s carnival is a must-see for art lovers, with its out-of-this-world paper-mâché masks and glorious costumes crafted by local artisans and artists. The carnival of this sleepy coastal town is considered one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean due to the creativity and magnificence of its artistic displays. During the carnival season, Jacmel hosts several events and activities, leading up to the three-day celebration of Trois Jours Gras.

Want to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnival? Read this first!

Port-au-Prince
The Carnival in Port-au-Prince is the most popular in Haiti, attracting a large crowd of festivalgoers who come to enjoy the explosive atmosphere of music and dancing. The parade features artistic creations, marching bands, and large floats, but the real highlight is the musical groups that parade at Champ de Mars, the city’s largest public square. Here, the most famous Haitian bands and artists compete to see who will have the best carnival slogan, float, or song.

Cap-Haïtien
If you’re looking for a more peaceful carnival experience, Cap-Haïtien is a great choice. The parade takes place every year on the ocean-side Boulevard du Cap-Haïtien, which is also home to some of the city’s best restaurants. The Carnival in Cap-Haïtien is known for its orderliness and calm atmosphere, making it a great option for families and those who prefer a more relaxed celebration.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published April 2023.


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Meet the Colorful Characters From the Jacmel Carnival

Papier-mâché carnival figures
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Meet the Colorful Characters From the Jacmel Carnival

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Are you ready for a carnival like no other? One where mythical creatures, rich history, and vibrant costumes collide in a festive spectacle? Then pack your bags and head to Jacmel on Haiti’s south coast, where the city’s renowned carnival awaits.

For many Haitians, the phrase “Lage m pou m al nan kanaval” (I am ready to go to the carnival) rings a familiar tune, as it’s taken from a popular carnival meringue song. But the Jacmel carnival is not your average Mardi Gras. It’s a celebration of Haitian culture and society, expressed through a parade of colorful outfits and mesmerizing paper mache masks.

Body paint at Jacmel Carnival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The city of Jacmel, known as Haiti’s cultural capital, boasts a rich artistic tradition, particularly in paper mache. And the carnival is a testament to this, as it showcases mythical figures from Haiti’s collective imagination, such as the ChaloskaLanset Kod, and Yawe. But the cast of characters and carnival costumes is ever-changing, incorporating figures inspired by the Vodou pantheon, current events, and notable individuals, making each edition a unique and lively critique of the history of Haiti.

Join us as we delve into the fascinating world of Jacmel’s carnival, where the characters and traditions that define Haiti’s rich history are celebrated in the most original and joyous way possible.

Are you ready? Let’s go!

Chaloska carnival costume
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

One-of-a-kind Chaloska

The Jacmel Carnival parade features some of the most intriguing characters and among them are groups of tall, young men dressed in tailcoats and tall top hats. These are the representations of General Charles Oscar Etienne, who was infamous for his cruelty in Port-au-Prince and Jacmel. The general gained notoriety for his acts of violence against political prisoners who opposed the government of President Vilbrun Guillaume Sam.

After the assassination of the president and his devoted general by an angry crowd in 1915, the carnival of Jacmel created the Chaloska character to mock the former general’s striking features, such as his height and prominent teeth. The costume, complete with epaulets, a cap, and an exaggerated set of teeth, serves as a colorful satire of the infamous general.

Papier-mâché carnival figures
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Carnival Flora & Fauna

Imagine you’re sitting at one of the many Haitian carnival stands, and suddenly you see a giant crocodile head sticking up over the crowd in the parade, a little further on a hibiscus flower appears, you see a rooster that’s your size and dragons, lots of dragons

The carnival parade can transport you into surreal universes when you least expect it. With large masks and costumes depicting trees, tropical fruits, colorful flowers, and animals, the Jacmel carnival celebrates Haiti’s tropical flora and fauna. It’s also a way to preserve a tradition dear to this coastal town, the papier-mâché technique – read more about that here!

Lansèt kòd at Jacmel carnival
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Lansèt Kòd and Their Pranks

Every Sunday leading up to the carnival parade, you might run into groups of men and women completely covered in a shiny, sticky, blacker-than-black mixture made of sugarcane syrup and charcoal. These are the Lansèt Kòd (rope throwers or Lanceurs de cordes in French).

Sometimes they parade with whips in hand and wear surprising accessories such as multicolored wigs, miniskirts and thongs, or bullhorn attached to their heads and arms. For the carnival novice, they might look strange, scary, or even grotesque. Don’t worry, that’s the point. The origin of this tradition dates back to colonial times, like many other practices in Haitian culture.

These rope throwers are known for their pranks and mischief. If you have the original idea of wearing white for the parade, you may end up with a black handprint on your back!

Follow along in the footsteps of a lansèt kòd group as they run around Jacmel!

The Yawe at Jacmel carnival
Photo: Franck Fontain

Yawe: A Unique Carnival Tradition!

Here’s another iconic Haitian carnival character found only in Jacmel. The Yawe’s costume is made of horns and fully covered in red fabric with an ox skin on it’s back. It may give you the impression of a bullfighter’s performance as other participants will chase the Yawe while cracking a whip and hitting it on the ox skin.

This tradition recalls the era when buccaneers hunted wild oxen and pigs on the island of Hispaniola. Which is why the Yawe mimics an ox on the run. The name Yawe, which resembles the name of a Jewish deity, is believed by many to have been introduced to the country by the Jewish community of Jacmel.

Fèy Bannann
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fèy Bannann

The Fèy Bannan is a masked group that captures the essence of both strange and intriguing—dressed from top to toe in dried banana leaves with just a small hole for eyes. Some say that their garb pays homage to the German folk character Knecht Ruprecht, who punished misbehaving children. Perhaps this tradition was brought to Jacmel by the young bourgeoisie from Germany, with the character’s hair transformed into dried banana leaves.

However, the Fèy Bannan may have a deeper message at its core. Another story suggests that this carnival costume was created by a wise farmer, as a satirical critique of the Jacmelian bourgeoisie during a time when their bananas were being exported and bringing wealth only to the rich. The mask serving as a message to the exploiters, a reminder that they have taken everything, and the only thing left is the banana leaves they use to cover themselves with.

Ti Brino carnival character
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Ti Brino: The Masked Donkey

Even animals join the festivities at the Jacmel carnival! So don’t be surprised if you see a donkey dressed in converse sneakers and a straw hat. And the craziness doesn’t stop there.

The character known in the city as Ti Brino is followed by an entourage of young boys fully painted in bright neon colors – reminiscent of something straight out of Alice in Wonderland. The story goes that the curious name for this carnival costume is that of the first person who had the original idea to parade a donkey in the carnival.

Zombie carnival costumes
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Enter the Zombies

The Jacmel Carnival is special in its ability to transport you from one world to another in the blink of an eye. The parade characters can suddenly make way for a spooky atmosphere filled with skulls and skeletons. These are the Zombies (zonbi in Haitian Creole), one of the mysteries of Haitian folklore and Vodou that has captured the imagination of people around the globe and fueled incredible and improbable fantasies.

The concept of zombies has its roots deeply ingrained in Haitian culture and predates its appropriation by Hollywood and the rest of the world. Far before it became a mainstream theme in horror movies and video games, zombies in Haiti symbolized the dead who had risen from the grave and were forever enslaved.

Read more about the mythical Haitian zombies here!

Papa Juif
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Enigmatic Wandering Jew

Get ready to be mesmerized as the Jacmel Carnival unveils one of its most intriguing figures – the Wandering Jew. Dubbed “Papa Juif,” this aged man, with his long white beard and attire reminiscent of biblical patriarchs such as Abraham and Moses, walks majestically down the parade with a staff in hand.

The character of the Wandering Jew is a mystery in itself. How did he find his way to the Jacmel Carnival? His legend casts him as a worldly figure, one who belongs everywhere and nowhere at the same time. This character serves as a reminder of the Christian heritage of carnivals, as evidenced by the presence of other characters, such as angels and demons from the Christian tradition.

Native Caribbean Indian carnival costume
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Historical Figure of the Endyen

They wear short skirts, feather crowns, and roucou on their faces. The Indian (endyen in Haitian creole) character evokes a part of Haiti’s history – namely, the time when the island was inhabited by the Taino, Arawak, and other Native Caribbean tribes. Although extinct today, you can still see many elements that have remained of these peaceful peoples’ culture, such as their works of art and cuisine. The Haitian carnival honors these people every year through the Indian character.

Among the represented Indians, you can observe the beautiful queen Anacaona, recognized for her beauty and great talent as a poet, or the fierce king Caonabo, known for his bravery in the face of the Spanish invasion of the island. This couple is often presented in the front line of the Indian section of the parade.

A group of Zel Mathurin at Jacmel carnival
Photo: Franck Fontain

The Intimidating Zel Mathurin

Last up on our list of carnival characters are frightening little devils in brightly colored satin costumes, sporting wooden wings and menacing paper mache masks.

These are the Zel Mathurins. They march in formation and create an eerie atmosphere by clapping their wings to produce a haunting sound, embodying Lucifer and his minions. These figures are inspired by the biblical tradition of hell and usually follow behind the angels in the carnival parade.

So, what are you waiting for? Visit Jacmel during kanaval to get up close and personal with these characters!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published February 2023.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

The Seven Best Books about Haitian Vodou

Book reading in Haiti
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Seven Best Books about Haitian Vodou

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The Occult Arts and Esoteric Sciences have experienced a resurgence in popularity in recent years, igniting a fascination with ancient rituals, mystical circles, and practices such as divination, spells, and fortune-telling. Haitian Vodou is not immune to this trend, but separating truth from fiction can be difficult amidst sensationalized adaptations in media and literature.

Vodou is a complex system of rites and beliefs that has been shrouded in mystery for centuries, often mistakenly labeled as witchcraft or black magic. Unlike other spiritual practices, there is no central sacred text in Vodou, and its secrets are passed down through oral tradition and guarded by initiated practitioners. Despite this, there is a rich body of literature available, including works on Vodou cosmogony, personal accounts of initiates, and anthropological studies.

Join us as we explore some of the best books on Haitian Vodou, providing a window into this ancestral spiritual practice and its enduring mysteries.

Tell my horse; Voodoo and life in Haiti and Jamaica

If you are new to the world of Haitian Vodou “Tell My Horse” by Zora Neale Hurston should be at the top of your must-read list. Despite some criticism that it’s cynical due to its straightforward descriptions, this perception is largely rooted in the historical context in which it was written and is in contrast to other works on Vodou from the same era.

The author takes the reader on a journey of true immersion into the culture and traditions of Haitian Vodou and the Maroons of Jamaica. Hurston’s commitment to honesty and respect for Afro-descendant spiritualities, such as Vodou, make her story authentic and highly regarded by critics. The book sheds light on the complexities and mysteries of Vodou with the clear intention to provide an honest perspective.

The title of the book, “Tell My Horse,” refers to the act of possession by a Loa (spirit), where a person is referred to as the “horse” of the Loa. Despite the intricate subject matter, including the secret societies of Vodou, the phenomenon of zombification, and the mysterious nature of mystical trance, “Tell My Horse” remains a definitive reference on the topic of Vodou in Haiti.

Secret Voodoo

Most of Milo Rigaud’s literary work is dedicated to decoding the mysteries of Haitian Vodou. Throughout the book “Secret Voodoo”, he explains in detail the symbolism hidden in the ritual practice of Vodou. So if you’re seeking a deeper understanding of this complex and ancestral religion, “Secret Voodoo” is your perfect resource.

The book traces the African roots of Haitian Vodou. It provides in-depth explanations of the principles of the Loas, the various components of a Vodou temple, the initiation process, and the role of each adept. Rigaud offers a comprehensive look at Vodou, providing readers with a complete understanding of its rituals and practices.

Voodoo: Search for the Spirit

Published by Gallimard in 1993, “Voodoo: Search for the Spirit,” is a comprehensive exploration of Haitian Vodou by Laënnec Hurbon. The book provides insights into the intricate link between Vodou and Haiti’s social and political life, offering a deeper understanding of the religion’s impact on the country. The text is accompanied by beautiful illustrations that help readers grasp the cultural dimension of Vodou and how it has influenced the beliefs, lifestyles, and imagination of the Haitian people.

The author traces the evolution of Vodou from the arrival of enslaved Africans in the colony of Saint Domingue (present-day Hispaniola) to the various campaigns of persecution it has suffered. Laënnec Hurbon is a renowned expert on Haitian Vodou and “Voodoo: Search for the Spirit” is an essential read for those interested in learning more about this fascinating belief system.

Divine Horsemen : The Living God of Haiti

This account by Maya Deren is like an intimate conversation with the most sacred mysteries of Haitian Vodou. The book was initially intended to be a film about Haitian folk dance featuring the famous dancer Katherine Dunham. The two women were quickly enchanted by the sacred meaning behind the dance steps performed to the sound of drums during Vodou ceremonies.

Dunham eventually made Haiti her home and her residence in Port-au-Prince became a hub for Vodou ceremonies. Meanwhile, Deren gave us a powerful account of this spiritual practice in her book, “Divine Horsemen.” In it, she masterfully explains the cosmogony of Vodou and the role of the living gods in the lives of the initiates.

This exceptional work is considered one of the best books written on Vodou. Through her writing, Deren provides insight into how the ancestral spirituality of Vodou allows individuals to connect with the divine through the mysteries and Loas (spirits), becoming one with them as their mount, their messenger, and their living temple.

Nan Domi

Mimrose Beaubrun, lead singer of the popular Haitian roots band BoukMan Eksperyans, offers a true initiation into the world of Vodou in her book “Nan Domi”. The author transports the reader to a fascinating universe, both disorienting and intriguing, a state of spiritual awakening she paradoxically calls Nan Domi, literally meaning in sleep or in dreams.

In this narrative, Beaubrun shares her perspective as an initiated Vodou practitioner. Taking the reader along on her own spiritual journey, guiding us through each step of her initiation process in the sacred places of Vodou, commonly known as Lakou. She also shares part of the teachings she received from her mentors in her book.

If the account is reminiscent a dream at many points, it is because it is a crucial aspect for the understanding and awakening of spiritual insight as described by Beaubrun. If you are drawn to the idea of a Vodou initiation, this book is for you.

Ritual Voodoo Diagrams

Are you familiar with the hidden symbols and ritual diagrams used in Vodou? Many esoteric practices employ symbols and geometric shapes as a tool for meditation or incantation. However, the cosmograms of Haitian Vodou – known as vèvè – stand out for their intricate design, beauty, and mode of creation.

Voodoo Diagrams” by Milo Rigaud provides a comprehensive guide to the secret of these ritual drawings. The author delves into the origins of the vèvè and their Kabbalistic significance, offering a detailed explanation of each aspect of the diagrams. Unfortunately, the book has been out of print for a while, but buying a used copy is still possible.

Vodou Songs in Haitian Creole and English

Singing holds a significant place in Vodou rituals, serving as a form of prayer to the gods of Vodou. A well-known Haitian saying summarizes this role of singing, “chante se priye de fwa,” meaning singing is like praying twice. The songs sung by the hounsis, or initiated practitioners of Vodou, form a unique language with the rhythm of drums to prepare for the arrival of the Loas during possession trances.

This tradition has been passed down through generations by word of mouth. “Vodou Songs in Haitian Creole and English” by Benjamin Hebblethwaite offers a comprehensive overview of this rich repertoire of sacred songs, providing both the original Creole lyrics and their English translations.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published March 2023.


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel