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Dondon grottoes

view from inside a cave with vines in entrance
View of Dondon from inside a grotto
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dondon grottoes

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Located in the mountains of northern Haiti, Dondon has been settled since pre-colonial times when Haiti’s indigenous Taíno peoples lived there. This little corner of Haiti attracts a lot of tourists, and the main drawcard for visitors is the opportunity to explore the stunning system of grottoes nearby.

vodou symbol painted on a cave floor
Vodou vèvè inside a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

The grottoes

Dondon’s spectacular cave system has ten separate grottoes. Some are easy to access and have a given name: Ladies’ Vault, Marc-Antoine grotto, Smoke Vault, Cadelia Vault, Saint Martin Vault, Minguet Vault and Michel grotto, all named because of their individual history.

Some of these caves were Taíno cult locations during the pre-colombian period, where the Taínos would come to pray to their gods. One of the gods prayed to in times of drought is still visible on the walls of the grotto, and in post-colonial times is venerated by vodouwizan as an important figure within vodou. The other grottoes remain unnamed, their histories steeped in mystery.

Guided tours

Many Dondon area locals – young and old – are happy to jump into the role of guide for the grottoes. Some have learned by heart formulas in French and English, which can make for charming – if confusing – conversation.

Experienced and impromptu guides will be more than happy to help you discover the best spots, hidden petroglyphs and the history infusing these grottoes – some of this history only survives as stories handed down from generation to generation, so you won’t find it anywhere else.

haitian man sitting on donkey drinking in river
A man on a donkey by Riviere Bouyaja in Dondon
Photo: Anton Lau

Festivals in Dondon

Every town in Haiti has its own patron saint festival. In Dondon, pilgrims come from far and wide to celebrate Saint Martin of Tours. Some come here to party, others come as tourists to observe, but most are here to honor the Vodou divinities, the lwa believed to live here. The patron saint festival of Saint Martin of Tours happens in Dondon on November 9 – 11, but party preparations start on November 7. For five days, crowds filter into Dondon to savor kleren, eat delicious griot, and dance to troubadour music from morning ‘til night.

There is also the Dondon Festival, held from July 18 to 23. This festival is about Dondon itself rather than lwa, and draws vacationers who come to take advantage of the great swimming spots in nearby rivers, go on excursions and participate in the conferences that take place for the occasion.

What else is nearby?

Dondon is close to the UNESCO World Heritage Sans-Souci Palace and Citadelle Laferrière, which locals call the eighth wonder of the world. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any visit to Haiti, and the journey there is well-worth the effort.

Fort Moïse, on top of the Saint Martin Vault, is also close by. Other attractions include the Kota waterfall and the historical Vincent Ogé residence. The on-site coffee co-op at the residence is a great place to taste the very particular flavor of Haitian coffee.

cave entrance with vines and trees
Overgrown entrance to a grotto in Dondon
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to the Dondon grottoes

Dondon is located in the north of Haiti, about a two hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien. The journey to Dondon will take you over roads that are winding and can be pretty rough in places. On paper (or GPS), the route through the town of Saint-Michel might look good, but that road serves up more adventure than most travellers are looking for, and we don’t recommended it. The best way to get to Dondon we’ve found is this one:

From Port-au-Prince, drive out of the capital towards Cap-Haïtien via Route Nationale #1. The road to Cap-Haïtien makes up the longest chunk of the drive, but its recent completion makes it a comfortable trip, not to mention a scenic one, with many towns to stop in along the way, each with their own character. Once in Cap-Haïtien, continue towards the town of Milot. Make a left after you pass Rivière du Nord, and in another hour or so you’ll arrive at Dondon.

There’s no formal fee to see the caves but you’ll need to hire a (formal or informal) guide. Remember to bring food and drinks with you for the trip as there’s no guarantee you’ll find anything on site, although Lakou Lakay is a great place to stop for lunch if you’re travelling via Milot.


Written by Jean Fils and translated by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2020


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The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon

interior of haitian MUPANAH museum with golden sculptures
MUPANAH – Museum of The Haitian National Pantheon
Photo: Anton Lau

The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon

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About the museum

Much of Haitian heritage is preserved orally. Songs, stories and structured debates rehearse and refine the histories and experiences down the centuries. As a visitor, you can only scratch the surface of this unseen medium of memory. If you’re in Champ-de-Mars, and you’re lucky, you might witness the debate circles that are part of the island nation’s oral tradition.

Material cultural memories, however, are a little easier for the curious traveller to find. If you’re in downtown Champ-de-Mars, you can find it in the Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon, or MUPANAH. Built partially underground, this museum displays artefacts illustrating Haiti’s history with an emphasis on its revolutionary years and its political and cultural forefathers.

Thanks to being partly underground, the museum survived the massive earthquake of 2010 almost unscathed. First opened in 1983, MUPANAH was designed to safeguard and display the lives and accomplishments of the country’s important forefathers: Alexandre Pétion, Henry Christophe, Toussaint Louverture, and Jean-Jacques Dessalines. This is where a lot of Haiti’s physical colonial history is kept intact.

What you’ll see

For a small fee, visitors get access to a wealth of history on Haiti and its past. Self-designated as the guardian of Haitian history, the museum is split into two show rooms: a permanent exhibit, and a temporary exhibit.

The permanent exhibit showcases artefacts from the pre-Columbian period to the contemporary period. It emphasizes the revolutionary period, during which an army of self-freed slaves and free people of color fought off the colonial system to abolish slavery.

A tour guide take visitors through Haitian history, starting off with the Taíno people who first inhabited the island. Visitors are walked through the voyages of the first colonizers to set foot on the island: the Spaniards.

Learn how Spanish colonizers used the Taíno people of the island as a resource, and how it came about that they began to traffic African slaves to Hispaniola as well.

See real examples of the actual shackles that were used to keep slaves under control, alongside gruesome instruments of torture used the slave masters. While this may be shocking for some visitors, the museum and its advisory board believe this is an important part of Haitian history that should be kept alive for the sake of our collective memory.

See the anchor of the Santa Maria ship – on which Christopher Colombus arrived in Haiti – standing at a daunting thirteen feet tall. This cold hunk of metal is a chilling reminder of the trigger that began the centuries of upheaval now embedded in the Haiti’s history and national identity.

Read documents signed by, and belonging to, prominent presidents – such as noted dictator François Duvalier – the museum also features the silver handgun which Henri Christophe used to commit suicide. On a more uplifting note, you’ll get to see the bell that was rung to announce that the country’s population were claiming their independence.

Temporary exhibits

The temporary exhibit displays artworks from various Haitian artists, and rotates on a regular basis. The art is often chosen based on a particular theme, including current events, music, social and economic issues, or historical events such as French colonisation.

Relax in gorgeous gardens

Outside of the museum are the MUPANAH Gardens. Open from Monday to Saturday, the Gardens are set in a lovely white greenhouse-like space with large open windows throughout. Light, airy, and expansive, the Gardens are a much needed antidote to Haiti’s often heavy history, and are a worthy destination in their own right for anyone looking for fresh air and tranquility in Port-au-Prince.

The Gardens feature a sculpture garden and sitting area set in the middle of typical Haitian greenery, and house the museum’s restaurant and gift shop. Overlooking the lush green spaces surrounding the museum, you can dig into some of the city’s best French cuisine. Sitting at a table in the Gardens for lunch is an upscale outdoor dining experience – a vivid contrast to the sizzling street food scene of downtown Port-au-Prince.

The Gardens also serve as a popular location for cultural events all year round, including the International Jazz Festival of Port-au-Prince. Special events, meals, or cocktails are announced at the venue itself, but also via social media.

Getting there

The museum is open seven days a week, including holidays. Tours are offered in French, Creole, and in English.

The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon is located in Champs de Mars, downtown Port-au-Prince.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2019


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Explore the Waterfall and Grottoes of Bassin Zim

People swimming beneath a waterfall in Bassin Zim, Haiti
People swimming in Bassin Zim
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore the Waterfall and Glittering Grottoes of Bassin Zim

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A few miles north of Hinche, Bassin Zim is a spectacular natural landmark with a waterfall, a chain of turquoise-hued pools and a network of glittering underground grottoes. There’s rumours of buried treasure, but the real treasure is out in the open.

Four people and a motorbike at the shore of Bassin Zim, Haiti
Bassin Zim
Photo: Anton Lau

The magnificent waterfall that is the centrepiece of Bassin Zim isn’t the type that crashes vertically down into the water below – instead, it cascades down the side of the mountain and fans out into a wide basin, creating one of the prettiest sights on the island.

A path winds from the basins all the way up to the top of the waterfall. You can reach the top if you can find your way, and if you’re lucky you might get to watch some experienced Haitians freediving into the pool below. We recommend against travellers trying it though – it’s more dangerous than it looks, and with so many other adventures to be had, why take the risk?

Many believe that after death, “good” or “pure” souls head to Bassin Zim to receive their blessings. There are also those who claim that the Taíno Amerindians who lived on the island before colonization have hidden a bountiful treasure somewhere in the basins or the caves below.

Buried Treasure

Underneath Bassin Zim, there are high-ceilinged grottos that are arguably even lovelier than the basins or the waterfall. With ankle-deep water studded with smooth rocks and stalagmites, the fifty-foot high walls are painted vivid green with moss, and the rivulets of water running down them reflect the outside light, glittering in the cool dark. Stalactites hang from the ceilings, and strange stone shapes mushroom from twists in the folds of rock. For keen photographers, these caverns will provide some striking shots.

The grottos beneath Bassin Zim are just the start – this landscape is full of them, and exploring the network with the help of a friendly guide is a great way to give back as part of trip to Haiti. A hike through nature is low-impact travel for you and a rewarding way for locals to make ends meet. Guides will help you to avoid the menace lurking in some of these caves: though they’re as unlikely to harbour pirates as they are to hide treasure, they have been known to harbour wasps.

Getting to Bassin Zim

From Port-au-Prince:
To get to Bassin Zim from Port-au-Prince, drive towards Hinche and head east out of town on the 308, crossing over the Samana river. About a mile after the river crossing, take the road on your left and follow it north as it climbs through a dry, pastoral landscape, passing several churches on the way.

The lands of what we can call “Midwestern Haiti” are often parched in the dry seasons and swamped under the deluges of the wet – it’s a changeable landscape where the power of nature is felt strongly.

As you near Bassin Zim, the dry road gets rougher, and the grass greener. There’s no turn off to watch for – the road makes a few sharp turns to meet up with the Samana again and ends at Bassin Zim itself.

Entrance fees 
Admission is 250 HTG (less than 3 USD) for tourists and 50 HTG for locals.

A note on guides:
Getting to parts of Bassin Zim can be tough, and we recommend hiring a local guide – especially if you plan on jumping in, as it’s notoriously difficult to get down again without a guide.

When it comes to finding a guide, don’t worry – they’ll find you! In fact, if you don’t pick a guide and insist that the other hopeful candidates leave you alone, you can end up in the awkward situation of having several guides accompany you, all expecting to be paid at the end. Choose one (or more) guide, and insist that the rest leave you to it.

Make sure you negotiate a price with your guide before you start – 250 to 500 HTG is a reasonable price. Bring the right bills with you.

Remember, never underestimate the power of the water or the risks associated. If you are not joining a tour, inform your hotel or accommodation owner where you are going and be sure to check the conditions before you trek in. Happy travels!


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018


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