Port-au-Prince

Flights & getting here

November 28, 2018 by Editor

Women in dresses crossing the airstrip to board a plane at Aerogare Guy Malary, Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Aerogare Guy Malary, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Flights & getting here

How to travel to Haiti for less

From reservation to relaxation, here’s our guide to getting to Haiti.

Airports

Haiti has two major airports. Toussaint Louverture International Airport is located in Port-au-Prince, the capital city located roughly in the middle of the country. This is probably your first stop in Haiti.

Cap-Haïtien International Airport, near coastal city Cap-Haïtien, is the gateway to the north of the island. The Cap-Haïtien airport mostly services flights between Port-au-Prince and Cap-Haïtien.

An airplane wing cuts through the clouds at sunset — Flight
Photo: Tom Barrett via Unsplash

Airlines

Airlines such as American Airlines, Air Europa, Air France, British Airways, Delta Airlines and JetBlue Airways offer flights at reasonable prices from different countries all over the world.

From America
Delta, JetBlue, and American Airlines are the main airlines with flights from the United States to Haiti – but keep in mind that these flights may include stops along the way, depending on how you make your travel arrangements.

From the Dominican Republic
Hot tip: a bargain flight into the Dominican Republic might be your cheapest way to get to Haiti. The island of Hispaniola is split down the middle, with the Dominican Republic on the eastern side and Haiti on the west. From the Dominican Republic, it is possible to take a short flight in an airplane, or to hop onto one of the many tourist bus companies based in Port-au-Prince, such as Terra Bus.

From Europe
If you are flying from Europe, Air France has regular flights to Haiti.

Non-stop flights
You can fly nonstop from Miami, Orlando, Atlanta, Fort Lauderdale and JFK. From other cities, it will depend on the airline and the specific flight. If you are flying to Haiti from New York with Delta Airlines, your flight will inevitably have at least one stop along the way – either in Atlanta, Georgia, or in Miami, Florida, as Delta has stopped direct flights between New York and Port-au-Prince, Haiti. Flying from Canada is more or less the same, although it’s always good to confirm with your airline of choice.

From Europe, some routes will be called “direct” – technically correct because you don’t change planes or even leave your seat – but do need to make a stopover on the way.

Three people sitting in front of a computer to choose flights — Friends choosing flights
Photo: John Schnobrich via Unsplash

Find the best-value flights

Airfares to the Caribbean are generally quite stable. Prices peak around December and January, but sudden hikes outside of that are unlikely.

A return flight from Florida starts at about USD$250. A roundtrip from New York will set you back about $400. A round trip from London is about USD$850 (£660 or €750). All these prices are looking at February travel booked a few months in advance – they will be lower or higher depending on when you want to fly and how far in advance you are planning your trip.

Want to visit Haiti on a budget? Book in advance and choose the shoulder months of November, February and March.

Look for the best value flight packages that meet your needs, and then keep your eyes peeled for sales from the airline that offers the route/package you want to take.

Woman relaxes in a pool at Le Plaza Hotel, Haiti — Relaxing in the pool at Le Plaza Hotel, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Amanacer / Emily Bauman

When is the best time to travel?

Cost-wise, flight prices peak in December and January when demand is highest. This is also when flights are most regular, and depart from a higher number of airports across the world – some airports fly to the Caribbean weekly during the peak periods but not at all during the rest of the year.

For more advice on when to fly, see our article on when to travel to Haiti.

Avoid excess baggage fees

Be mindful of baggage fees. Some airlines allow one checked bag for free, and charge you for any extra bags, whereas some airlines will charge you for any and all checked bags. If you need to add checked luggage to your ticket, it’s much cheaper to do it at the time of booking or over the phone a few days before your flight.

Border crossings and VISA regulations

If you’re American, you’ll be glad to know American citizens can stay in Haiti Visa-free, for three-month periods at a time. The same is true for Canadians, and virtually all European and Asian passport holders (Visas are only required for citizens of Syria, Libya, Iran, Vietnam, Yemen, and Chechnya).

Citizens of the Dominican Republic, Panama, or Columbia will need to travel on a current US, Canadian or Schengen Visa to enter Haiti.

When you arrive in Port-au-Prince, you’ll need to pay a tourist fee of USD$10. It’s not much – but to make the process easier, do remember to get some USD notes before you get on the plane. You’ll be asked for the fee before you clear customs or reach a currency exchange bureau.

Getting to your hotel

If you are staying at a hotel or with a host in Haiti, make sure that your transportation arrangements are made ahead of time, for a smooth transition from the airport to your final destination.

Your hotel or host should be able to help you book transit, and you can even request a driver to be waiting for you at the airport.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

Top things to see in Haiti

Passion Fruit & Poisson Gros Sel: The Haitian Cuisine

November 16, 2018 by Editor

Fried shrimps in a cast iron skillet at the Habitation Turpin restaurant, Petion-Ville, Haiti — Fried shrimps at Habitation Turpin, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

Passion Fruit & Poisson Gros Sel: The Haitian Cuisine

Haiti has a bright and vivid culture, and there is no place where it is reflected more boldly than in Haitian cuisine.

One of the best ways to get to know a country is through local cuisine. You’ll find out who cooks, what they like, where they came from, and what they value the most in their day-to-day life.

Port-au-Prince offers incredible culinary diversity. While signature Haitian dishes have variations throughout the country, the convergence of people from every city means you can find (almost) everything in Port-au-Prince.

The capital city’s culinary richness is built on a whole island worth of food culture, and most of the dishes you sample in Port-au-Prince feature ingredients grown right here in Haiti.

Woman making pikliz at a market in Jacmel, Haiti — Street vendor making pikliz, Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

There is no pikliz quite like the one made with local onions from the south of the country; ti joslin tomatoes, grown right here in Haiti, bring a special kind of sweetness to a salad; and is a plate of diri kole really complete without fresh watercress from the mountains of Fermathe?

While brand-name foods are imported to the island, the variety of local food is quite impressive. Haitians plant, grow, and eat a huge variety of produce!

The best way to get acquainted with the wide range of flavors available in the Haitian pantry is to check out your local farmer’s market.

The yellow and blue exterior of Gingerbread Restaurant in Pacot, Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Gingerbread Restaurant, Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to find Haitian cuisine

Looking for a true introduction to Haitian cuisine? Port-au-Prince houses the best names in the business, such as La Coquille, La Réserve, and Presse Café in Pétion-Ville, Gingerbread in Pacot, or La Plaza in downtown Port-au-Prince. These restaurants are great places to sample typical Haitian cuisine. For a special treat, Le Florville in Kenscoff has a popular Sunday brunch. It’s a great way to enjoy a relaxed Haitian dining experience.

For some of Haiti’s famous seafood, head to Océane and Coin des Artistes in Pétion-Ville. Their produce is almost entirely locally sourced, and it’s great to know you’re supporting local fishermen. Coin des Artistes hosts live music performances throughout the week, and the home-grown beats are a great accompaniment to their delicious dishes!

Piles of colorful fresh produce at a market in Fermathe, Haiti — Fresh produce at market in Fermathe
Photo: Franck Fontain

Flavour staples and seasonal produce

Carrots, onions, tomatoes, eggplants, chayotes – more commonly known here as militon –, and any and all beans under the Haitian sun are readily available country-wide, and depending on when you’re here, there’s usually a bounty of fruit and veg in season. Iceberg lettuce is the most widely available lettuce in Haiti, from farmers’ markets to supermarkets; green leaf lettuce is more widely available in supermarkets, as it is grown in greenhouses in the hills of Fermathe.

If you have more of a sweet tooth, you’ll be thrilled to find out that Haiti delivers here as well! Haitian bananas are a breakfast staple, and one of the sweetest in the entire Caribbean – they come in two varieties: the normal, standard banana and a smaller, finger-sized variety called ti malis. Citrus fruits are also a big part of Haitian cuisine – everything from passionfruit to green limes can be turned into a juice or a scrumptious dessert. Sweet potatoes find their way into desserts such as pen patat, and cashews from the city of Cap-Haïtien are turned into delicious candied bars, known as tablèt nwa.

If you would like to see and taste for yourself, Port-au-Prince is chock-full of offerings for everything you could crave!

Haitian fisherman with his catch in a traditional boat near Pestel, Haiti — Fisherman, Pestel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Trade winds

Even in the Caribbean, though, produce does go in and out of season. So where do restaurants turn when a key ingredient can’t be sourced locally?

Supermarkets are stocked with preserves and brand-name items from around the island and around the world. When oranges aren’t in season in Haiti, you’ll still find freshly squeezed OJ – it just carries a different passport. If a dessert features a specialty fruit or vegetable, it’s imported, as are several staples. For example, finding lemons grown in Haiti can prove difficult, but you’ll find lemons, milk, olive oil and black pepper in the supermarket.

This doesn’t make Haiti’s dining options – whether fine or homely – any less authentic. On the contrary, it is a colorful illustration of how most people, things, and places in Haiti come together: from many places, to form one, beautiful display, laced with history.

The restaurants and ingredients listed above are just the beginning. Why not venture out to other spots in your neighborhood in Haiti – a true gem may be right around the corner!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

Top things to see in Haiti

Explore Haiti’s Contemporary Art Scene at Villa Kalewès

November 6, 2018 by Editor

The outside of Villa Kalewes gallery, Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Villa Kalewès, Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

Explore Haiti’s Contemporary Art Scene at Villa Kalewès

Kalewès is the creole word for “hangout” and Villa Kalewès, the gingerbread mansion turned contemporary art gallery, invites you to do just that.

Take a look inside Pétion-Ville’s artist-owned contemporary gallery.

Take a closer look

Situated at the heights of Pétion-Ville, at the end of 99 Rue Gregoire, Villa Kalewès is easily recognizable by the rich gingerbread color of its fairy-tale wooden walls and white lace-like edging. It’s one of the most important gingerbread structures in Pétion-Ville, and remains both in-use and, lucky for us, open to the public.

An exemplary specimen of Haiti’s turn of the century architecture, Villa Kalewès may seem like an odd choice of venue for the capital’s leading contemporary art gallery, but it reflects the innovative spirit that has been drawing crowds since Kalewès reopened its doors to the public in 2014.

Walking up the front steps, you enter onto a covered veranda classically decorated with an intricate mosaic of tiles. You pass through multiple spacious rooms with high vaulted ceilings and sun-drenched windows typical of the gingerbread style, until you reach the courtyard lush with tropical trees and perfume-laden flowers.

A small bar and swimming pool are part of the villa’s history as a private family mansion, but Villa Kalewès is now owned by a contemporary art group called Kollectif 509. It’s the venue of choice for artist workshops, children’s art classes and over 30 art shows since 2014. Looking for an upcoming cultural event to attend? The first Thursday of every month is a salon-style evening the Villa. It features a particular artist and invites discussion around a topic chosen each month.

Villa Kalewès, Petion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

About the collective

Kolektif 509 is the brainchild of Xavier Dalencour and Valerie Noisette, two artists with a passion for the contemporary art scene in Haiti. The idea behind the project evolved from a recognition of the growing need for emerging and established artists in Haiti to have a consistent and artist-owned venue to showcase their work.

“There is a new generation of very talented artists, and there are many artists who are known internationally but not so much in their own country,” said the duo in a recent interview. “We wanted to bring these artists together to show to the public what new innovations are being done in Haitian art today.“

The dedication to showcasing Haitian culture is evident in varied artworks that hang on both the upper and lower floors of the spacious gallery. New methods, styles, and schools are all welcome here.

Artists like Pascale Faublas recently experimented with batik printing. Her fuschia, white and black hearts with Vodou vèvè-inspired motifs drew admiring crowds at a recent all-women’s art show. Equally experimental, Mafalda plays with multi-layered translucent papers and acrylic paint.

Support local artists

While the ambitions of the collective are high, the prices are incredibly reasonable. You can purchase an original painting for as little as $150 US dollars and support the contemporary artists who sometimes struggle to find an audience in Haiti’s art-saturated landscape. The gift shop is stacked full of even more affordable gift ideas, such as contemporary Haitian art prints.

Getting there

Thinking of making a stop at this architectural gem? Villa Kalewès isn’t open every day, so make sure to visit during a special event or simply call head to check.

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published November 2018

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Unreal art at Galerie Monnin

October 29, 2018 by Editor

Entrance to Galerie Monnin, Laboule, Haiti — Galerie Monnin, Laboule, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Unreal art at Galerie Monnin

Galerie Monnin is a space that beautifully balances the old and new, the imaginary and the real. This 50-year old gallery is one of the top attractions in Haiti and brings you the best of Haitian art, old world antiques and a new take on creative events in a mysterious setting.

Leave behind the cobblestone pavement in the mountains of Laboule, above Port-au-Prince, and pass through a stone archway set into a bright two-story villa covered in comic book style illustrations.

Inside the gates is a kind of whitewash-and-ebony mansion that seems more at home in a Swiss fairy tale than the cobblestone Haitian streets. The next thing you notice is the silence. The hustle and bustle of the capital exists outside of this tropical forest enclave. An oversized broken clock and mosaic-tiled skull in the entrance hint at the wonder that awaits inside.

Art on display at Galerie Monnin, Laboule, Haiti — Galerie Monnin, Laboule, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Enter the weird

The first room is styled like an 19th century living room. You’re greeted by floor to ceiling gallery walls with all manner of Haitian art, vintage furniture and modern lighting. Through the narrow doors, you’ll follow a myriad of narrow passageways into adjoining rooms, each a unique combination of antiques and neon-modern art.

Room after room, hidden balcony after hidden terrace you are drawn inward toward more of the unexpected. It’s perfectly curated bohemian-Vodou-madness with plenty of high-calibre art and an undercurrent of mystery. And it’s all for sale.

For a touch of gothic or what may be considered creepy to non-initiates, visit the room dedicated to assemblage Vodou sculptures and doll heads. The creepy figurations and inscrutable symbolism of traditional Vodou art are jumbled up with their garish neon counterparts. In the final room, a vintage settee and antique Vodou flags sit next to a freshly painted selfie booth. It’s complete with modern mirrors, and invites you to take a snap for yourself.

Painting of two Haitians getting married on display at Galerie Monnin, Laboule, Haiti — Galerie Monnin, Laboule, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A family affair

This Caribbean homage to all things weird and thought-provoking is owned by two sisters. Curator and art director Gaël Monnin and world-famous artist Pascale Monnin joined forces to transform their family’s property into a new kind of exhibition space unparalleled in the Caribbean.

Gaël and Pascale are the third generation in a long history of Monnins in Haiti. Originally Swiss art promoters, the Monnins first settled here back in 1944. It was at the time when the New Yorker Dewit Peters launched the Centre D’art in Port-au-Prince and turned the naïve Haitian painting style a world-wide collectors trend.

The first generation of Monnins befriended Peters and bought paintings from artists who would became famous as the great masters of the naïve Haitian painting style (Hector Hyppolite, Castere Bazile, Rigaud Benoit, Préfète Duffaut and many others) and participated in creative lifestyles themselves.

Galerie Monnin was first launched in 1956, and for the last 50 years it has since fostered art, forged friendships, curated exhibitions and contributed to the cultural development of Haiti.

Now in its third generation (and third location), Galerie Monnin’s history is the story of a family woven deeply into the creative fabric of Haiti. As patrons of the art, the Monnins, like the artworks on their walls, bear witness to the angels and demons that have plagued the political landscape over the decades.

In recent years, sisters Pascale and Gaël Monnin realized that a facelift to rejuvenate the gallery was necessary, and in 2018 they moved the massive collection up to Laboule 17 and curated the complementary décor throughout.

About the collection

The gallery’s permanent collection ranges from the leaders in naïf art, the masters of Saint Soleil (Sen Soley) painters and a broad collection of internationally-significant Haitian artists. It’s also the place to find the latest works from contemporary masters.

You’ll find works from KILLY, PASKO, Mario Benjamin, NASSON, and David Boyer. Naturally, the works of Pascale Monnin, internationally renowned in her own right, are regularly exhibited here. She can be found on the gallery grounds, creating new pieces with her collaborators.

Tourist looks at art on display at Galerie Monnin, Laboule, Haiti — Galerie Monnin, Laboule, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

More than art

Beyond the classic work of curating and representing Haitian artists, Galerie Monnin has become an integral platform for the broader creative community. Innovative events and activities happen weekly in the leafy gardens of Laboule 17.

Since reopening at the new location in early 2018, Galerie Monnin has hosted fashion collection launches, artist workshops, book signings and weekly networking events for creatives.

Looking for a chance to breathe deeply, surrounded by tropical forest? Galerie Monnin offers yoga once a week. All week long, stopping at the galllery is a brilliant way to take a time out on the way up or down the Kenscoff road.

Getting there

Not familiar with Port-au-Prince? This exceptional space is tucked away in an enclave on Kenscoff road but easy to find if you know where to look. Don’t be fooled by Google Maps, which may still point you to the old address. Instead, head south out of Pétion-Ville on Route de Kenscoff and drive west until you reach a road marked Laboule 17. The roads are clearly marked, but note that each road has its own number – so the road marked Laboule 18 is a different road entirely.

Turn left at the sign styled like a Medieval shield, with “Galerie Monnin” printed on it. You enter a private driveway and continue driving through the lush parkway, past a security guard, until you arrive in front of a series of stone houses. The private residences lie to the left. Front and center lies this hidden gem of a gallery, waiting to be discovered.

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published October 2018

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Explore Haitian art and culture

The broken heart of Port-au-Prince: Champ de Mars

October 18, 2018 by Editor

Champ de Mars

A series of public squares divided by large boulevards, Champ de Mars is a cluster of markets, businesses and theaters. At the centre of it all, is the empty space where the Palais National used to be.

Anyone who grew up in Port-au-Prince has childhood memories of Champ de Mars: family outings, running on the boulevard with their friends, or sitting under the dense tropical trees to discreetly exchange words with a love interest. Champ de Mars has seen generations come and go, witnessed revolutions of cultural and political regimes, monuments built up, and torn down by forces of nature.

For years after the quake, the main attraction in Port-au-Prince was a ghost town. High fences were erected all around and the only way for intrepid travellers to entre was with official permission and a guided tour.

With the rubble cleared away, the fences around Champ des Mars have come down. Foundation stones for the new Palais National were laid in 2018 – an important step for this island nation that is determined to get back on its feet. As of early 2019, the old site of the Palais National is still fenced off, but the rest of Champ des Mars is busier than ever.

Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

What’s to see in Champs de Mars?

Statues of Haiti’s founding fathers are here, including Alexander Pétion, Henri Christophe, Jean-Jacques Dessalines, and Toussaint Louverture. The most arresting of them all, though, is Marron Inconnu, the iconic statue of the unknown slave blowing a conch-shell trumpet. Sculpted by Haitian sculptor Albert Mangonès, the statue represents a runaway slave on one knee, arching back to blow into the conch-shell trumpet. In his free hand, he holds a machete; around his ankle is a broken chain. In Haitian history, the sound of blowing into a conch was used to announce a slave’s – or a group of slaves’ – freedom. The statue stands to represent Haiti’s independence from the French.

If history’s what you’re after, the Museum of the National Haitian Pantheon fronts onto the square. Two theatres on Champs de Mars – the Ciné Triomphe and Rex Théâtre – were severely damaged by the earthquake, and the Rex, still boarded up, gives you a sense of what much of Port-au-Prince was like in those first bleak years. The Triomphe theatre fared better and has reopened to the public.

Daytime
Under the eaves of the Triomphe theatre, a long strip of artisans sell their arts and crafts: paintings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, wooden bowls, metalwork, and more. Interspersed between these artisans street food merchants sell hot food, usually rice and beans, by the Styrofoam box. For an authentic treat, and relief from the Caribbean heat, find a Fresko or snow-cone merchant.

Afternoon
Afternoons here buzz with conversation and music playing from sound systems around the park. On weekdays, white-collar Haitians funnel into Champ de Mars on their lunch breaks from local banks, hotels and government offices, or maybe from their lecturing jobs at the nearby university departments – the Faculty of Sciences, the National School of Arts, the Faculty of Ethnology, and the Haitian-American Institute.

Evening
In the evenings, Place de la Constitution de 1801 fills up with the tables and chairs of opportunistic food sellers. If you linger, a waiter will pull you up a chair and ask “Kisa n ap bwè?” What will you be drinking? Underneath the symbolic 200 steps of the Tour 2004, built to commemorate 200 years of independence, you can grab a beer at Kay Leyo, or Leo’s House; an outdoor bar where employees from the nearby Ministry of Culture – come to enjoy a drink after work. There are several brands of local beer, but the strong lager Prestige is consistently drinkable – as long as it’s cold.

People relaxing, Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

If you’re in Haiti in February or March, Champ de Mars truly blooms during Carnival season

In February, Champ de Mars is the home of Haiti’s Dimanches Précarnavalesques, or Pre-Carnival Sundays. For four weekends leading up to the main event, brightly-clad marching bands bring the streets alive from afternoon until nightfall, parading toward Champ de Mars from places as far as Lalue or Canapé-Vert.

On the final weekend before the three “fat” days of carnival – Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday – Champ de Mars boards up! Construction crews are seen sawing, nailing, measuring, and pushing up against the buildings all the stands that will line the carnival route to offer hundreds of visitors a better view of the parade.

For Carnival, Champ de Mars floods with people crowding the entire carnival route, eagerly waiting for their favorite artist or band to show up, so they can sing and dance along to their new carnival songs. Merchants up and down the route hawk street food, sodas, energy drinks and ice-cold Prestige beers. Moments of euphoria erupt as the floats come into view, washing into Champs des Mars on waves of bass from the sound systems. Return visitors know to pace themselves over the three days of Carnival so that on the last day they can party until sunrise – solèy leve, as it is called here in Haiti.

Motos on Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince — Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Hike to Historic Fort Jacques

October 16, 2018 by Editor

view of an old fortress on a mountain top surrounded by pine trees — View of Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Hike to historic Fort Jacques

Tucked away high in the dense mountains of Haiti is Fort Jacques – one of the country’s oldest and best preserved forts.

Early mornings at Fort Jacques are a peaceful escape from the busy island of Haiti, and are an easy way to get out of the city without having to head to the provinces. While the forest is still waking up, you’ll be surrounded by the songs of exotic birds – many endemic to the island – as well as the rustling and conversation of merchants setting up shop. At the end of your hike, sitting at a picnic table in the middle of the mountain wilderness, you’ll see why a trip to Fort Jacques – one of the cheapest things to do in Haiti – is also one of the best.

Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Defending Haiti’s Independence

After Haiti gained its independence in 1804, most people were busy celebrating. Their newfound freedom from colonial rule was a powerful cultural moment for Haitians in the same way that independence from British rule was for Americans, and continues to be just as important to this day.

With celebrations still underway, Alexandre Pétion – the Division General of the Haitian military – foresaw that the colonizers might not let Haitians enjoy their freedom for too long. As a way to prevent the French returning to seize control of the island again, Pétion oversaw the construction of two forts: Fort Alexandre and Fort Jacques.

While Fort Alexandre was named for Pétion himself, Fort Jacques takes its name from Jean-Jacques Dessalines, who was then the emperor of Haiti. Construction work was complete within a year; Pétion wasted no time making sure that Haiti was ready to fend off would-be conquerors.

The location of Fort Jacques was not left to chance. From the battlements, one can look out over the entire bay of Port-au-Prince, giving defenders advanced warning of any naval attacks. Today, centuries after construction, Fort Jacques stands as a point of reference for the locals and tourists who venture into these parts of the mountain. The fort still houses some of the cannons that were designated to defend Haiti’s independence.

These days, the fortress is much more than a monument to more dangerous times, and a visit to Fort-Jacques offers an escape to peaceful green spaces. The path that leads up to the fort is flanked by the soccer field of a nearby school to the left, and on the right, trees so dense that it’s hard to see through them.

Exterior of Fort Jacques, Haiti — Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

The best way to enjoy what Fort Jacques has to offer is to wake up a little earlier than usual one morning, lace your running or hiking shoes up, pack a bite to eat for breakfast, and drive up to the Fermathe church, or take a bus that will drop you there. If you are in Pétion-Ville, Fermathe is only a thirty- or forty-minute car ride away. Don’t forget to pack a sweater!

From Fermathe, the challenge – and real fun, begins. The road is paved, making the walk up to the fort an enjoyable hike. In the morning, the sun’s rays are still soft, and the hike is pleasant. You can take your time and sample some of the market goods on the way to the fort.

The road is lined with merchants selling street food, whose kitchens are either housed in a little strip of small houses, or, as you get closer to the fort’s entrance, out in the open. If something a little fancier is what you crave, stop in at Fort Jacques Bakery. Past the liquor and snack sellers, a cobblestone path continues to the fort, and the food traders give way to local artisans often come to show off their arts and crafts.

Behind the fort, the forest is decked in picnic tables shaded by tall trees. Because this is all open to the public, Fort Jacques is a popular destination among local young adults and teenagers as well as tourists: it is an open space, with seating available, out in the middle of nature. During the summer and winter breaks, it’s common to find young adults sitting at the tables, listening to music together and enjoying a good time.

Two people seen through a dark tunnel at Fort Jacques, Haiti — Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Get the most out of your visit

Because there’s no designated tour guide team to show you around Fort Jacques, you’ll run into would-be guides who will hustle (sometimes aggressively) for the chance to show you around – for a foreigner price. For some visitors, this can be a challenging situation to navigate.

You’ll be more comfortable if you head to Fort Jacques with an experienced local from the start. This way, the guided tour isn’t as expensive, and there is a better chance of grasping the tour guide’s explanation of what’s going on.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Port-au-Prince

Flights & getting here

How to travel to Haiti for less

Airports

Airlines

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Find the best-value flights

When is the best time to travel?

Avoid excess baggage fees

a touch of haitian wisdom

Border crossings and VISA regulations

Getting to your hotel

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Passion Fruit & Poisson Gros Sel: The Haitian Cuisine

Haiti has a bright and vivid culture, and there is no place where it is reflected more boldly than in Haitian cuisine.

a touch of haitian wisdom

Where to find Haitian cuisine

Flavour staples and seasonal produce

Trade winds

From Our Land to Your Home

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Explore Haiti’s Contemporary Art Scene at Villa Kalewès

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Take a closer look

About the collective

From Our Land to Your Home

Support local artists

Getting there

Citadelle Henri

Find Villa Kalewes

External Links

Recommended

Paradise for your inbox

Unreal art at Galerie Monnin

Enter the weird

A family affair

start your day the Haitian way

About the collection

More than art

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Getting there

Find Galerie Monnin

External Links

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Explore Haitian art and culture

Paradise for your inbox

Champ de Mars

A series of public squares divided by large boulevards, Champ de Mars is a cluster of markets, businesses and theaters. At the centre of it all, is the empty space where the Palais National used to be.

What’s to see in Champs de Mars?

From Our Land to Your Home

If you’re in Haiti in February or March, Champ de Mars truly blooms during Carnival season

Find Champ de Mars

External Links

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Our recommendations

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Hike to historic Fort Jacques

Tucked away high in the dense mountains of Haiti is Fort Jacques – one of the country’s oldest and best preserved forts.

Defending Haiti’s Independence

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Getting there

From Our Land to Your Home

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Find Fort Jacques

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Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

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a touch of
haitian wisdom

a touch of
haitian wisdom

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tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

start your day
the Haitian way