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Parc de Martissant

lush green garden area with path
Parc de Martissant
Photo: FOKAL

Parc de Martissant

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Created in 2007 by joining together four huge estates, the Parc de Martissant provides public oasis where people can relax, share skills and culture. Students and tutors from nearby schools are often found wandering in the park, reading or chatting together. The second central aim of the park is to preserve Haiti’s beautiful native flora.

Year round, the garden is bursting with tropical sights and smells: pink and yellow frangipani, hibiscus, red ginger (or ginger lily), spider lily, the exotic ‘lobster-claws’ flower and dozens of others we didn’t know the name of.

Stroll through lush rolling lawns, roped paths, feature trees, flower guilds and wooded groves circumscribed by stone walls, natural amphitheatres and outdoor galleries as well as three separate groups of buildings, most notably the Katherine Dunham Center.

building with futuristic designed roof in public park
Katherine Dunham Cultural Center, Port-au-Prince
Photo: FOKAL

The Katherine Dunham Center

The Center was once the residence of African-American dancer and choreographer Katherine Dunham, the ‘matriarch of black dance.’ In 1935, Dunham obtained travel fellowships to the Caribbean to further her studies on dance and vodun – or vodou – leading her straight to Haiti.

Here, she spent an extensive amount of time researching, learning, and developing her own dance method. After Dunham passed away in 2006, her property was transformed into a cultural center, and now features an iconic library, whose five buildings – built to emulate movements of dance – were designed by Mexican architects Raúl Galvan Yañez and Winifred Jean Galvan. This library is a hive of activity for students and fans with cultural activities, public readings and more each week.

garden area with rosemary and other herbs
The Medicinal Garden, Parc de Martissant
Photo: Ray Ginald / FOKAL

The medicine garden

The Centre is also where you’ll find guides willing to show you around Parc de Martissant’s extensive garden of medicinal plants. The tour is very detailed, and guides are always more than happy to answer questions, but visitors are free to walk around and observe by themselves if they prefer.

Depending on the time of year, some of the plants are blossoming or yielding fruit. The medicinal plant garden sits adjacent to a community produce garden, whose bounty is gathered whenever it is ripe and made available to the local community.

old concrete swimming pool without water in a tropical garden
Habitation Leclerc, Parc de Martissant
Photo: FOKAL

Habitation Leclerc

Elsewhere in the park’s 17 acres, you’ll find a former luxury hotel called Habitation Leclerc. In the sixties and seventies, the villas with private pools of Habitation Leclerc was a point of reference for the jet-setting elite of the world.

artwork sculpture haning from tree with pink flowers
Art installation by Pascale Monnin at Parc de Martissant
Photo: Valérie Baeriswyl

The earthquake memorial

The third major installation of Parc de Martissant is the January 12 2010 Memorial. It was built on the former residence of Haitian architect Albert Mangonès – the sculptor behind the Marron inconnu or Nèg mawon statue at Champ-de-Mars.

Erected in 2012, the memorial is a symbolic resting place for the souls of those who passed away during the 2010 earthquake. Residents of Martissant planted ylang ylang trees on the perimeter of the memorial and every afternoon the trees’ scent is released throughout the area at a similar time to that of the deadly earthquake in 2010.

The memorial also features a permanent art installation by Haitian artist Pascale Monnin. Skulls made from iron and cement covered in mirror shards hang from a giant tree, twisting and swinging in the wind. Monnin shaped and crafted these skulls based on the faces of residents of Martissant. From the early hours of morning into the late afternoon, they catch and reflect the Caribbean sunlight.

How to visit

The best time to visit the park is in the morning. The ravaging heat of Martissant will not yet be in full effect, and the park is still waking up.

The park is designed with an organic flow in mind – while there isn’t always designated seating, there are low walls or stairs where visitors often sit and hang out.

Guided tours at Parc de Martissant are paid. Children under 6 years of age enter free of change; those between 7 and 18 years old pay 25 gourdes, and people over 18 years of age pay 50 gourdes. The spaces that are currently open for touring are the January 12 2010 Memorial, the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center, and the medicinal plant garden.

If you are planning to visit the center, it is worth noting that the guided tours are in Haitian Creole – therefore, having a bilingual friend or guide to tag along is a good idea! If you visit during the summer, you will greatly benefit from making a reservation in advance, as the tour guides tend to be quite busy during that time of the year with group excursions.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2020


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Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

building with futuristic designed roof in public park
Katherine Dunham Cultural Center, Port-au-Prince
Photo: FOKAL

Visit the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center

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Located in the crescent coast of the bay of Port-au-Prince, the neighborhood of Martissant was once home to boulevards and villas where Haitian high society lived and thrived. These days, Martissant is high-density and not exactly a tourist destination. But there are a few things in Martissant that are worth the trip, and the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center is one of them.

Nested away in Martissant Park, the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center is a haven of peace, calm and community. It is named after African-American dancer and choreographer Katherine Dunham, who moved to Haiti in the 1930s to learn about the African heritage of Caribbean dance forms. Now known as the ‘matriarch of black dance’, Dunham is credited with bringing African and Caribbean rhythm and technique into the professional dance repertoire.  

Katherine Dunham’s private home and studio

During her stay, Dunham befriended a few Haitian officials, and became an important cultural ambassador for Haiti. In the centre of Martissant, Dunham purchased a leafy seven-acre property, which she used for herself and for her US-based dance company. A hotel was built there, and for a number of years Dunham received and entertained the elite of Haiti and other lucky invitees.

The lavishness inside the walls, and luxury of being able to focus on art, was an extremely sharp contrast to the poverty-afflicted neighborhood of Martissant. Now, it is giving something back.

Now open to the public

After Dunham passed away in 2006, her property was transformed into a cultural center, and now features an iconic library, whose five buildings – built to emulate movements of dance – were designed by Mexican architects Raúl Galvan Yañez and Winifred Jean Galvan.

This is why from a distance, it is possible to see and identify the geometric, free-flowing silhouette of the center. On the right hand side of the actual center is the relic of an imposing peristil which belonged to Katherine, and which she used during her time in Haiti as a space for Vodou ceremonies inspired by Dunham’s research into African and Caribbean culture.

Most days of the year, the cultural center is open to the public. It houses a very well composed library for young children, teenagers and adults. It is possible to check books out of the library, with a minimal subscription fee. An attractive, bright, intuitively built interior attracts you to a table, or to a shelf. Everything is exceptionally well designed to encourage community and communication.

Events

Because Martissant Park is under the sponsorship of Fondasyon Konesans Ak Libète (the Foundation for Knowledge and Liberty), the Centre also hosts many roundtable discussions, forums, and panels. There are rotating activities all week long for children, as well – ranging from storytelling workshops to readings conducted by popular Haitian authors. The Center also hosts book signings and conferences by young up and coming authors.

There is always plenty of activity at the Katherine Dunham Cultural Center. It is an exceptional venue made possible by an exceptional woman, and pays homage to her life as passionate activist who lived immersed in Haitian culture.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2020


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Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre

the gardens at Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre, Haiti
Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre
Photo: Franck Fontain

Visit Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre

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What was Caribbean plantation life like? See for yourself!

With its well-preserved cane pressing machinery, distilleries and historical buildings, spread over multiple acres, a visit here offers tactile insight into the days when it was fully-functioning, in the era when Haiti was in the last stages of its struggle for independence. Up to the early 19th century, cane sugar and its products played a huge role in Haiti’s internal economy and international trade. The museum pays tribute to the role Haiti played in the global balance of power at the time.

The museum’s formal buildings are divided into themed rooms. One of the most popular is the Taíno-Amerindian room. It contains original artifacts from the pre-Colombus era, when Hispaniola was populated by Taíno and Arawak Amerindians. The household items and religious relics provide a treasure of insight into life before Christopher Columbus’ arrival in 1492.

Taking a guided tour through the park is a great way to understand more of what you’ll see. In the grounds you’ll stumble across a genuine steam engine parked on the grass. Follow the stone paths and you’ll find water mills, aqueducts, a rum distillery, and many other vestiges of plantation life. Everything has been preserved in its original form by the Auguste family. History buffs are in for a treat.

Events

As well as serving as Haiti’s premiere colonial era museum, the former plantation also hosts a variety of forward-focused cultural events. Jazz festivals have been taking place since 2007 and every December the park holds open-air concerts with Haitian headliners like Ram and Tabou Combo.

The annual October artisan market, Artisanat en Fete, is Haiti’s biggest craft fair. Every year 200-300 Haitian artisans are invited to Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre to sell their wares. Thousands of tourists and residents descend on the Parc to do early Christmas shopping over a long weekend.

At the Artisanat en Fete you’ll find the full gamut of artisan products, from food, wine, honey and hot sauces to handbags, fashion, home décor, hammered metal and living room sets carved out of driftwood. It’s a three day extravaganza of food, shopping, and networking that cannot be missed!

The park has been updated to include some post-1800 comforts like bathrooms, restaurant stalls, and pavilions, making it a pleasant way to spend a day. Stone pathways zig-zag through the grass and when the tropical trees are in bloom the falling red flowers lay a flame-colored carpet across the grass.

Getting there

To find Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre, drive down Boulevard du 15 Octobre until you reach the American Embassy. The park’s main entrance is located across the street behind decorative metal fences arched in bougainvillea flowers.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published April 2019


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Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

Aerial photo of St Pierre Church, Petion-Ville, Haiti
St Pierre Church, Petion-Ville, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

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Place Saint-Pierre is a large public square in the middle of Pétion-Ville. Flanked by the Lycée de Pétion-Ville, the Brothers of the Christian Instruction, Kinam Hotel, a police station, a city hall, and the church of Église de Saint-Pierre, the square dates back to the late 1800s. It’s no relic, though – Place Saint-Pierre is full of regular Haitians from Pétion-Ville and surrounding areas at work and play.

A popular meeting place, you’ll hear many Haitians say “I’ll meet you at Place Saint-Pierre, okay?” Mature tropical trees throw shade across most of the space, where you can wander around stone paths and have a seat on metalwork benches made by the artisans of Croix-de-Bouquet. You can buy ice-cold sodas, bottled water (and often ice cream) any time of day or evening from merchants who float around the square.

North of the square, you’ll find the most popular flower market of Pétion-Ville. From Monday to Sunday, from dusk to dawn, the air is full of the perfume of their trade. As the bouquets and wreaths travel from market to churches and businesses all over the heights, Place St. Pierre gets strewn with petals.

What else happens here?

During most of the year, the square’s most frequent visitors are students from the two nearest schools: Brothers of the Christian Instruction and the Lycée de Pétion-Ville. These students often meet at the square during recesses, or after school to play soccer, to debate class assignments, or just to escape from their demanding academic lives from time to time. Like Champ-de-Mars, it’s not uncommon to find debate teams near the entrance of the square, though the teams here are mostly young students.

Once a year, on the 29th of June, the patron saint of Saint-Pierre – or Saint Peter – is celebrated here. If you’ve never seen Caribbean christianity, you’re in for a shock: people come from all over Port-au-Prince and from cities across the country to celebrate St Peter over a nine-day “novena” – an ancient tradition of structured public and private prayer. It’s not a somber occasion, though – live bands, DJs, food stands, and activities for spring up in the days leading up to the 29th.

People hanging out in Place St. Pierre, Haiti
Place St. Pierre
Photo: Franck Fontain

History

In the Haiti of the 40s and 50s, places like Place Saint-Pierre were hubs for socializing. Haiti’s middle class was getting stronger and more affluent, and Sunday morning mass at the Saint-Pierre church was an opportunity to parade one’s sunday best. With neatly pressed hair and shiny little shoes, the children of Pétion-Ville played with their friends while parents talked politely under the strong Caribbean sun.

The rise of restaurants and businesses in Pétion-Ville, coupled with the growing number of people moving to the heights – Pèlerin, Laboule, Thomassin – turned Place Saint-Pierre into a point of reference. It has been renovated many times to keep it up to date, most recently in 2012.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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