TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

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Wildlife in Haiti

dolphin jumping off coast with palm trees
Dolphin jumping of the coast of Hispaniola
Photo: Shutterstock

Wildlife in Haiti

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Haiti’s position in the Caribbean favors a rich diversity in plant and animal life, despite decades of intensive deforestation during the twentieth century that have dramatically changed the landscape.

The effects of this exploitation can be seen from space, but down on ground level degradation has been halted, conservation is on the upswing and every year, the ecosystems that have remained intact attract nature and wildlife lovers to this side of the island.

While you’re in Haiti, you’ll have the chance to see some unique wildlife, including many birds, mammals and reptiles endemic to Hispaniola. Here’s our guide to the fauna and flora of this enchanting island.

butterfly perched on flower
White Peacock Butterfly
Photo: Shutterstock

Butterflies

There are over one thousand species of butterflies and moths on the island of Hispaniola, so ditch the glasshouse at the zoo and get out there to see some of these beauties for yourself.   If you are in Haiti during the first half of the year through to the middle of the summer, you will spot the bright yellow butterflies which Haitians call Papillons de la Saint-Jean (St. John’s Butterflies, in English). Monarch butterflies make an appearance during the last third of the year.

black bird with red spots eating fruit
A hungry Greater Antillean Bullfinch
Photo: René Durocher

Birdlife

Keen birders will get a lot out of a stay in Haiti. There are two species endemic to Haiti, and a further twenty-six endemic to Hispaniola – the island Haiti shares with Dominican Republic.

Hummingbirds, Todies, Orioles and Flamingoes are just a few of the magnificent birds you’ll have a chance to spot when you visit. To learn more, check out these 10 amazing birds of Haiti and read our guide about bird watching in Haiti.

group of stingrays swimming in shallow caribbean sea
Stingrays swimming in the Caribbean ocean
Photo: Shutterstock

Marine Life

From the beach or the bow of a water taxi or privately chartered boat, you can see porcupine fish, stingrays and the quizzically-named warteye stargazers and bridled burrfish! The central and south coasts of Haiti are famously shallow and gradual, and many species have evolved to hang out close to the shore where they’re easy to spot. This means that if you are staying at a beachside resort or visiting a public beach, there’s an excellent chance you’ll run into them.

Out in the waters of Petit-Goâve, as well as La Gonâve (specifically in the area of Anse-à-Galets), dolphins are known to make a special guest appearance!

hispaniolan solendon next to a large rock
The Hispaniolan Solenodon
Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Snakes and strange creatures

Snakes are fairly common, but you’ll be glad to hear that Haiti is one of the few places in the world with no snakes that are dangerously venomous to humans (although some do have venom for subduing small prey). Snakes have a long human-entwined history in Haiti, where they wow audiences at tourist destinations and patron saint festivals around the country, and at carnival, where they are often the stars of the show.

Speaking of venom, Hispaniola happens to be home to the world’s only known venomous mammal, the utterly bizarre solenodon, which has evolved snake-like venom-injecting teeth. Don’t worry though, like the snakes in Haiti, they aren’t dangerous to humans. These enigmatic creatures are critically endangered, but with pockets of them recently confirmed in Haiti as well as the Dominican Republic, internationally-supported conservation efforts are underway to keep these little monsters safe.

Want to discover Haiti’s wildlife?

This list of critters is far from exhaustive. To learn more, talk to your local friends, host, guide, or specialty birdwatching and wildlife tour operators.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published June 2020.


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Kaskad Pichon

large haitian waterfall splashing into natural pool with people swimming
Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Belle-Anse
Photo: Franck Fontain

Kaskad Pichon

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Kaskad Pichon is a stunning waterfall located in the commune of Belle-Anse, in the South-East Department of Haiti. The waterfall is notoriously hard to get to, but worth the adventure.

Belle-Anse commune is home to soft, sandy beaches, and Kaskad Pichon (French: Cascade Pichon) is the crowning jewel of its inland treasures. A cluster of three separate basins, each crowned by glorious waterfalls, Kaskad Pichon is sustained not by rainfall, but an underground lake.

The waterfall runs through three separate basins: Bassin Chouket, where wild mint grows and perfumes the banks of the pool, Bassin Dieula and Bassin Marassa.

The Haitian Kreyol proverb “dèyè mòn gen mòn” reflects the Haitian landscape – “behind mountains, there are more mountains”. Once in a while, though, in between these mountains, you’ll stumble upon a hidden gem (and travellers who’ve been here before know that Haiti is full of them). One such hidden gem is Kaskad Pichon, a waterfall that is as stunningly beautiful as it is notoriously hard to get to.

Visiting Kaskad Pichon might have you snapping pictures the entire time, or putting your phone down in awe — up to you, really! However you decided to take it in, a visit to Kaskad Pichon is an intimate wilderness experience that you’ll remember for years to come.

Three travellers wading in the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Travellers exploring the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to Kaskad Pichon

Kaskad Pichon is remote, and to get there, adventurers need to be prepared to drive (or hire a chauffeur), ride a motorcycle, and hike.

The drive to Belle-Anse, the main town of the area, is quite a trip in and of itself, on a gravel road that passes through floodplains, riverbeds, and up steep hillsides. If you drive from Marigot the trip to Belle-Anse should take about two or three hours. The town of Belle-Anse is interesting enough to spend a morning exploring, or at least stopping for lunch to re-energize before the most rugged part of the adventure.

From Belle-Anse, you’ll need to drive to Pichon, and from there it’s another hour’s drive to Kaskad Pichon. A motorcycle ride from Pichon to the waterfall should cost you about 1,000 HTG per person (roughly US $11).

The ride up to the waterfall is part of the experience – clinging for dear life on the back of a bike, you’ll be driving through some of the most pristine wilderness Haiti has to offer, with mile upon mile of sandy white beach unwinding below the path up the mountainside. If you can plan for it with your motorcycle drivers, we highly recommend you make a quick swim stop en route to take in the beauty offered by Haiti’s south. It’s also a great opportunity to uncover some extremely instagrammable spots – you might want to plan in a little extra time for that.

After an hour-long motorcycle ride, you’ll have to hike, following a guide, for roughly 40 minutes, before reaching the waterfalls.


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published January 2020


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Sans-Souci Palace

Aerial view of Sans-Souci Palace, Haiti, with tree-covered mountains in the background
Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Sans-Souci Palace

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Sans-Souci Palace shares a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Citadelle Laferrière. A visit to both sites is considered essential for any trip to Haiti, and the hike (or horse-ride) from Milot to the Palace and then on to the Citadelle is well-worth the effort.

Sans-Souci Palace, which translates to ‘the Worry-Free Palace’, dates back to 1811, just after Haiti had become the world’s first independent black republic. Despite the weight of time – and a significant earthquake during the nineteenth century – the ruins of the Sans-Souci Palace maintain an imposing air and stand as an inspiring testament to the opulent post-revolutionary era.

Visitors can spend an hour or two exploring the palace and grounds before heading onward to the Citadelle.

History

The Sans-Souci Palace was built to serve as a residence for the revolutionary leader Henri Christophe, who would become king in 1811, a year into the palace’s construction. The palace was one of many lavish constructions Christophe ordered at that time, including the Citadelle Laferrière.

Christophe used his reign as an opportunity to build up Haiti’s standing in the eyes of the international community – particularly its former colonizer, France. Christophe was well known for the luxurious parties and feasts he hosted at the palace, and the palace’s design – from the lush gardens to the intricate waterworks installation still visible in the ruins – reflects this luxury.

The name “Sans-Souci” itself came from another Haitian revolutionary, Jean-Baptiste Sans Souci, who Christophe had asked to form a united front with, but who refused out of mistrust. A decade or so before the palace was built, Christophe invited Sans Souci to visit him. When Sans Souci accepted, he was promptly assaulted by Christophe’s guards – and legend has it that the palace bearing his name was built where he was killed.

Visiting the north of Haiti is a great way to brush up on Haiti’s history; here, visitors can see many of the country’s important landmarks, historic sites, and monuments dedicated to the memories and visions of pivotal figures in Haiti’s history.

Aerial view of the ruins of Sans-Souci Palace, Haiti
Sans-Souci Palace, Milot, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Where to eat

Restaurant Lakou Lakay prepares excellent, and huge, traditional Creole feasts – just be sure to make a reservation.

Where to sleep

Most travellers visiting Sans Souci and the Citadelle stay in Cap-Haïtien as accommodation options in Milot are fairly basic.

Getting there

Sans-Souci is located in Haiti’s North Department, close to the town of Milot.

Culturally curious travellers are well-advised to carve out a chunk of time for exploring the north of Haiti. While the capital city of Port-au-Prince and the entire South of the country are full of gorgeous destinations and exciting things to do, the North of Haiti is where a lot of the country’s history has its roots. Cap-Haïtien is the perfect base, and with the recent opening of the airport to international flights, visitors no longer need to arrive in Port-au-Prince first. Around a half-hour drive south of Cap-Haïtien is Milot, the jumping-off point for hikes to the UNESCO site.

For a small, negotiable, fee, a local guide will lead individuals or groups from nearby Milot up to the palace and guide you to the areas open to the public, which can otherwise be difficult to distinguish. A fair fee for a guide is US$20 to US$30, plus a fee for hiring a horse.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019


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Day-trip to Haiti’s prettiest lake

Two friends relaxing by Lake Péligre, Haiti
Friends relaxing by Lake Péligre
Photo: Franck Fontain

Day-trip to Haiti’s prettiest lake

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About three hours north east of Port-au-Prince, tucked away in the central highlands, Lake Peligre is Haiti’s second-largest lake. But what exactly makes Lake Péligre worth making a detour for?

The creation of this man-made lake is not without controversy, but after six decades, a new thriving ecosystem is settling into place. Fishermen are drawn to the large numbers of fish that live there, and travellers are drawn to its pristine beauty.

The tops of the highlands plunge like fjords into the lake, flanking it dramatically on all sides. On a clear day, the sun mirrors of off green-blue waters that seem to stretch on for miles and miles into the horizon. Calm, sunny days are when the lake is most pleasant to visit – and at its most photogenic.

The wall of the Péligre hydroelectric dam, Haiti
Péligre hydroelectric dam
Photo: Franck Fontain

The hydroelectric dam

Between 1956 and 1957, Lake Péligre was created as a result of the Péligre hydroelectric dam, built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. When the rivers were dammed and the lake flooded the highlands, several Haitian families were displaced, the fertile land they relied on to make a living was inundated, and much was lost by many who had very little to begin with.

Sixty years later, Lake Péligre still stands as an engineering marvel in Haiti, and the hydroelectric power plant of Péligre remains an important source of electricity for the island’s inhabitants.

Why is Lake Péligre green?

Nature enthusiasts visiting Haiti will wonder about this peculiar hue – the waters turn green because of two things. The first is the large amount of plankton – small organisms that live in large bodies of water – and the second is the large amount of organic matter that flows through the river openings connected to the lake. These two factors make Lake Péligre an extremely fertile environment, and that’s why it’s one of the largest contributors to fishing in Haiti!

A trip to Lake Péligre is one of the best ways to escape the city environment, and dive into one of the refreshing outdoor wonders the island has to offer.

Aerial view of Lake Péligre and surrounding hills, Haiti
Lake Péligre
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

The drive to Lake Péligre from Port-au-Prince is about three hours. Due to traffic – at any time of the year, really – the earlier in the day you leave Port-au-Prince, the quicker you will reach your final destination! We recommend setting off early in the morning so you can drive back to Port-au-Prince on the same day.

To get there, you will drive through the areas of Mirebalais, then Cangé and Thomonde, before making your way south towards the lake.

As you get closer, the roadside opens up to a breathtaking view of Lake Péligre in all its glory. A morning drive to the lake is particularly gratifying, as the morning rays brush over the calm, glittering water while you drive by.

To truly discover the treasures of Haiti, you really need to get out there and travel around the island. If you are basing yourself in a big city like Port-au-Prince, it’s easy to escape on dozens of day trips to destinations in all directions.

Standing by the side of the road and taking in the fullness of Lake Péligre – its sheer size, the green colors and scents, and the dramatic mountains surrounding it all, you’ll be glad you made the trip.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

Clouds gathering over the peak of Pic La Selle, Haiti
Clouds gathering over Pic La Selle
Photo: Anton Lau

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

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“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

This Kreyòl proverb means “Behind mountains, there are more mountains.” Hispaniola is one of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, and Pic La Selle is Haiti’s highest peak.

Part of the La Selle mountain range – which also extends into the Dominican Republic – Pic La Selle is over 8,700 feet, making it the highest mountain peak in Haiti, and the third highest in the Caribbean. If you’re the adventurous type, the La Selle range should be on your radar. A single-day climb affords panoramic views over the island of Hispaniola and out across the Caribbean.

Located in the south-east of the West department of Haiti, La Selle is accessible via the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquets, but also via the small town of Marigot, less than an hour’s drive from Jacmel. From there, the road gets rough, so it’s strongly recommended that you head to Pic La Selle with a 4-by-4.

The roads in Haiti, especially the mountainous ones, can be arduous, and if it is your first time going to Pic La Selle, it’s recommended that you hire a driver or at least a guide who knows the twists and turns in the road. Luckily, you’ll find guides who specialise in guiding hikes from city to summit.

Is the journey more important to you than the destination? You might prefer to hike or drive through the La Selle mountains via Furcy. This scenic route is lusher and the peaks and valleys more dramatic, and will appeal to nature-lovers who don’t necessarily want to scale Pic La Selle itself. Again, your best bet is to have someone on your team who has been before, or to make friends with a local. You can even arrange a guided tour on horseback.

Hiking through the dry coniferous forest, you’ll come to appreciate the saying “Dèyè mòn, gen mòn.” The mountains fold and unfold in front of you, seemingly to no end. Depending on the weather, they may be lanced with tufts of clouds, weaving between them.

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over the borderlands between Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic. This area is part of the expansive Transboundary La Selle-Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, a protected region showcasing the rich biodiversity shared between the two nations.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Soak up Spectacular Views from the Heights of Boutillier

People eating lunch at L’Observatoire restaurant, Boutillier, with Port-au-Prince and the Caribbean sea in the background
L’Observatoire at Boutillier
Photo: Anton Lau

Soak up Spectacular Views from the Heights of Boutillier

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Spectacular Views

Situated less than an hour from downtown Port-au-Prince, on the uppermost reaches of the ranges beyond Petion-Ville, amid cool mountain glades and forests of palms and towering native conifers, Boutillier is one of Port-au-Prince’s premier tourist attractions with spectacular views over the city, day or night.

The heights of Boutillier are home to roadside booths where artists sell their art as souvenirs, similar to the street-side craft markets in Place St. PierreChamps de Mars or Grand Rue, but the place that most travellers go to enjoy the view is the restaurant L’Observatoire.

L’Observatoire

The terrace of L’Observatoire boasts a phenomenal panoramic view of Petion-Ville and Port-au-Prince – taking in rolling green hills, the entire capital city, the turquoise expanse of bay Port-au-Prince, and the mountain ranges on the opposite shore.

Run by two sisters, L’Observatoire offers decent Haitian fare with some standouts: the best things on the menu are the freshly-pressed juices, traditional coffee, lobster burgers, and Pain Patate – a traditional Haitian dessert made from sweet potatoes and flavoured with rum-drenched raisins. Speaking of rum, the bar does excellent cocktails, and you probably won’t need more than one! L’Observatoire is also one of the few places in Port-au-Prince you can comfortably order vegetarian meals right off the menu.

Expect to pay New York prices here – you’re paying for the view and it’s the best in the city. Remember, though, that you’re on island time – you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy the view while you wait for you food, so grab a table – and a cocktail – and settle in to wait.

Sunset over Boutilliers, Haiti
View from Boutilliers
Photo: Franck Fontain

Romantic Getaway

As one of the most romantic spots in the city, you might expect L’Observatoire to have an extensive wine list – don’t. There’s a house white and a house rose, and last time I checked no red at all – but you can get red wine anywhere – how many places can you order a cocktail made with locally-distilled rum and sip it while leaning against a railing and looking over what feels like half the Caribbean?

The night-time view up here is even better than the sunset: the dark mountains plunge down onto the bay, and city lights cascade down their sides, pulling you towards the heart of the city. Just remember to bring a sweater or a blanket! It’s super romantic to have to lend or borrow a jacket to/from your date but keep the cool mountain air in mind so you don’t have to call off your night just as the view really gets magical.

Night view over the city of Port-au-Prince from from Boutilliers, Haiti
Nighttime view from Boutilliers, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

When to go

New Years
A spectacular choice for new years’ celebrations. The young and old, tourists, expats and locals, all come here to celebrate new beginnings at the top of the world. An incredible place to count down to midnight, surrounded by friends when the city lights up in fireworks.

When you have a date
Nothing says romantic evening like the view Boutilier.

Getting there

If you are driving up from Pétion-Ville, go up Kenscoff road until you reach the fork of Laboule 12. From there, the drive to Boutilier is one of the most scenic urban stretches Haiti has to offer. Trees flank the road, and most of the homes are gated estates, with a few neighborhood boutiques here and there.

After a while, the road is unpaved and the homes give way to green rolling hills, from which you have a spectacular vantage point on the hills of Laboule and Pelerin. It turns back to asphalt after a few minutes, and again, winds between homes, small boutiques, and stretches of lush mixes of forest and farmland.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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