TRAVEL UPDATE: Visit Haiti from Home

Things to do

Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

Aerial photo of St Pierre Church, Petion-Ville, Haiti
St Pierre Church, Petion-Ville, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

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Place Saint-Pierre is a large public square in the middle of Pétion-Ville. Flanked by the Lycée de Pétion-Ville, the Brothers of the Christian Instruction, Kinam Hotel, a police station, a city hall, and the church of Église de Saint-Pierre, the square dates back to the late 1800s. It’s no relic, though – Place Saint-Pierre is full of regular Haitians from Pétion-Ville and surrounding areas at work and play.

A popular meeting place, you’ll hear many Haitians say “I’ll meet you at Place Saint-Pierre, okay?” Mature tropical trees throw shade across most of the space, where you can wander around stone paths and have a seat on metalwork benches made by the artisans of Croix-de-Bouquet. You can buy ice-cold sodas, bottled water (and often ice cream) any time of day or evening from merchants who float around the square.

North of the square, you’ll find the most popular flower market of Pétion-Ville. From Monday to Sunday, from dusk to dawn, the air is full of the perfume of their trade. As the bouquets and wreaths travel from market to churches and businesses all over the heights, Place St. Pierre gets strewn with petals.

What else happens here?

During most of the year, the square’s most frequent visitors are students from the two nearest schools: Brothers of the Christian Instruction and the Lycée de Pétion-Ville. These students often meet at the square during recesses, or after school to play soccer, to debate class assignments, or just to escape from their demanding academic lives from time to time. Like Champ-de-Mars, it’s not uncommon to find debate teams near the entrance of the square, though the teams here are mostly young students.

Once a year, on the 29th of June, the patron saint of Saint-Pierre – or Saint Peter – is celebrated here. If you’ve never seen Caribbean christianity, you’re in for a shock: people come from all over Port-au-Prince and from cities across the country to celebrate St Peter over a nine-day “novena” – an ancient tradition of structured public and private prayer. It’s not a somber occasion, though – live bands, DJs, food stands, and activities for spring up in the days leading up to the 29th.

People hanging out in Place St. Pierre, Haiti
Place St. Pierre
Photo: Franck Fontain

History

In the Haiti of the 40s and 50s, places like Place Saint-Pierre were hubs for socializing. Haiti’s middle class was getting stronger and more affluent, and Sunday morning mass at the Saint-Pierre church was an opportunity to parade one’s sunday best. With neatly pressed hair and shiny little shoes, the children of Pétion-Ville played with their friends while parents talked politely under the strong Caribbean sun.

The rise of restaurants and businesses in Pétion-Ville, coupled with the growing number of people moving to the heights – Pèlerin, Laboule, Thomassin – turned Place Saint-Pierre into a point of reference. It has been renovated many times to keep it up to date, most recently in 2012.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018


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Not just naive: check out the art at Le Centre d’Art

Sign above the entrance to Le Centre d’Art, Port-au-Prince
Le Centre d’Art, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Not just naive: check out the art at Le Centre d’Art

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Mission

Le Centre d’Art was born from a genuine desire to see Haitian art grow and expand. In the Haiti of the late 1940s, before the Haitian Naïve style was made famous by international art dealers, there was no such thing as an art gallery in Port-au-Prince, let alone a public art school; this was not in the scope of the government of the time.

It was still, however, an issue that was very important to many intellectuals in Haiti and particularly to American watercolorist DeWitt Peters. An artist by trade, Peters was always encouraging others to pursue their artistic interests; Le Centre d’Art is the fruit of this encouragement, support, and guidance. From its founding days, Le Centre d’Art has been invested in mentoring Haitian artists in their craft.

About the collection

As part of its mission to give Haitian art its rightful place in Haitian society, Le Centre d’Art has five collections which are split up according to medium.

There is a collection that features paintings on different types of supports, one which showcases metal and wooden sculptures, a collection regrouping graphic art by prestigious artists and one collection where paper archives and artwork dossiers are preserved. The last collection features art publications – which includes the very first Haitian art review published by Le Centre d’Art itself.

Lovers of art will be happy to learn that although Le Centre d’Art was affected by the 2010 earthquake, the collections were successfully saved and works that were damaged have been restored. The team efforts resulted in over 5,000 pieces of art being saved and the gallery reopened in 2012 with a fully restored collection.

Most of these paintings you’ll see in Haiti are under the umbrella of Naïve art. Popularised through initiatives launched by Le Centre d’Art, as well as Peters’ own encouragement of individual artists, you can now find examples of the Naïve style all over Haiti – on the walls of the Brothers of Christian Instruction in Pétion-Ville, at the Wynne Farm Nature Reserve in Kenscoff, or in the public squares of Champ de Mars.

Le Centre d’Art is no exception, but you’ll find an unlimited range of expression here. Works from creators of all types of backgrounds are shown in the collections – from Naïve artists to storytellers to autodidacts and intuitive visionaries. The mission of Le Centre d’Art is to bring Haitian art into the light – regardless of its genre or origin.

Art classes

Classes at Le Centre d’Art are taught mostly by Haitian artists who are either affiliated with programs linked to the gallery or who have called the gallery home at some point in their career. These paid classes are open to participants of all ages and backgrounds, and some – like the children’s art class – are specifically geared towards the public.

How to visit

Le Centre d’Art is open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 9 in the morning to 6 in the afternoon. Entrance to the gallery is free.

For lovers of art, lovers of history, and lovers of art history, Le Centre d’Art is an accessible portal to Haitian creativity. A wonderful way to spend an hour or two out of the tropical sun and immersed in Haiti’s rich and colourful culture!


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018


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Four Reasons Why Haiti Is an Adventure

Three travellers wading in the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Travellers exploring the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Four Reasons Why Haiti Is an Adventure

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The jungles, jagged coastlines and wild white-sand beaches of Haiti were made for adventure travel, and the list of thrills is longer than the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range and bigger than Lake Azuéi. Haiti is a place not many tourists go, but where adventure-seekers thrive. It’s a place for the brave and curious.

Head for the hills in the Forêt de Pins, where a myriad of lush trails lead through the tropical conifers to Pic la Selle. Scuba dive off the island of La Gonave and discover a riot of underwater colours. Spend a day snorkeling in the crystal clear waters of Anse a Galets. Go caving behind the wild waterfalls of Bassin Zim. Feel the fresh air and adrenaline as you fly through the skies on the Dragon’s Breath zipline – the longest overwater zipline experience in the world.

You’ll need to do some real exploring

As far as Caribbean destinations go, Haiti is still a path less-travelled. As such – you won’t always find the sorts of creature comforts served up in the luxury hotels of other caribbean destinations, or an exhaustive directory of thoroughly reviewed local experiences. Unspoiled by the throngs of tourists you’d expect elsewhere, Haiti is a destination reserved for the intrepid, the inspired, the intrigued.

Haiti is raw. If the Caribbean was a menu, Haiti would be wild-caught and forest-foraged. For every manicured garden you stumble into, there are a hundred wild white-sand beaches waiting for you to kayak to, and for every paved road there’s a thousand rocky paths heading into the jungle-covered mountains, accessible only on foot. With a few exceptions, you won’t find the coolest cafes on instagram or the picturesque panormas on Pinterest – you’ll have to get out of your room, holster your smartphone, and find them yourself.

People relaxing by the sea at sunset, Haiti
People relaxing by the sea
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

You’ll need to be prepared

You won’t be completely in the dark though –  cell phone coverage is pretty good, you can find wifi in the cities and bigger towns, there’s another AirBnB added every month and an increasing number of hotels can be booked directly from a mobile phone. But take spare battery packs for everything – there’s no telling whether the solar electricity advertised at your Airbnb will last as long as claimed.

Google Maps coverage of Haiti is getting better, but there are still shortfalls. For directions to many destination, you’ll need to rely on local guides. All directions you find online should be taken with a grain of salt and seasoned with up-to-date advice. Google Maps can’t guide you through the intricate network of public transportation options, and doesn’t take into account the ravines made impassable by recent rains, or the truck that has been broken down and blocking that road for a week now.

Practice your French – or better yet, Creole!

Before you can navigate your way around boulders, you’ll need to navigate your way around the local languages! For some travellers, the most adventurous aspect of a trip to Haiti will be finding yourself in a country where the vast majority do not speak English. French is the official second language here, so if you have some high school French, dust off that dictionary and brush up before you go. Compared to France and Quebec, the locals of Haiti will be glad for your attempts to speak French, so don’t be shy. Don’t forget to smile and greet everyone with a joyful “Bonjour!”.

Better yet, embrace the chance to learn something new, and have a crack at Haitian Kreyol. You will win over anyone you encounter by making an honest effort at speaking their language. What you lack in vocab you can make up for in enthusiasm: stretch your hands and get ready for a real life game of charades.  

Moto on a beach in Haiti
Moto on the beach
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

It’s not a postcard – it’s an experience

If you’re looking to leave behind the theme-park “paradise” offered at the bigger Caribbean islands in favour of something less iconic but more inspiring; if you want to ditch the dull itineraries and dive into a different perspective; if you’re sick of the curated seaside resorts and want to walk among real people shaped by hard work and hope, who’ve overcome more than their fair share of dark history and recent hardship, you’ve come to the right place. If you’re seeking a pinch of unpredictability, visit Haiti.

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” -Anthony Bourdain

-Anthony Bourdain

Expect the unexpected, and don’t forget to bring your sense of adventure!


Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published August 2018


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