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11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Lansèt kod group in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

11 Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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If you already know a little about Haiti, then you likely have an idea about our magnificent country, located on the enchanting island of Hispaniola that we share with the Dominican Republic. It’s possible, however, that you have yet to hear about some of the most unique Haitian cultural traditions only known to locals.

To satisfy your curiosity, we’ve rounded up a selection of our oldest traditions, ranging from the daily life in our rural communities to the hubbub of our cities and rich culinary culture.

group of haitians sitting on chairs and porch in courtyard
Krik-krak storytelling in Cayes Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. “Krik-Krak”

Any true Haitian knows that the exclamation “krik?” always proceeds with an excellent “krak,” or story, as telling tales is an integral part of Haiti’s cultural traditions. Whether under an arbor drinking lemongrass tea with cinnamon or in the comfort of a warm room, the youngest gather around the oldest to tell their tales of yesteryear.

If you want to catch the attention of a Haitian friend, take every opportunity to throw out a “krik?” and they will invariably respond with a “krak.” But your story better be a good one!

Sounds interesting, doesn’t it? Get the backstory to this unique tradition and discover the impact of krik-krak in Haitian culture. Also, for an excellent read, the book Krik? Krak! is a compilation of fascinating Haitian tales by Edwidge Danticat, one of the most famous Haitian women authors to date.

Workers in a konbit in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

2. Konbit

If you pass through some rural regions in Haiti during the tilling season, don’t be surprised to find all the villagers working together or on each other’s lands. This form of social organization in our rural societies is an essential part of our culture and one of the oldest Haitian traditions that continue to this day.

While the men happily handle their kouto digo (hatchet), and machetes to unearth and work the land before its next sowing, women prepare the meals. Moreover, the word “konbit” in Haitian Creole has come into use to refer to living in harmony and the neighborly practices that are unique to the Haitian community.

colorful painted building at a vodou community
Lakou Soukri in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

3. Lakou

Imagine living in a homeland within another, where each individual forms an integral part of a larger society devoted to a greater good. In Haiti, such a place is known as a lakou. It’s typical to see Haitian families sharing common spaces around their central family units.

The lakou serves as an educational cocoon in which the youngest members can learn about sharing and living in neighborly harmony from their elders. Those who grow up in the commune have a responsibility to one day return to honor their family, seek wise advice, and publicly apologize to the Vodou spirits or loas that may have been offended.

Many Haitian rural communities rely on the social organization that lakou provide to advance in everyday living – and not only do they till the ground together but also share and practice their belief in Haitian Vodou. The worship of spirits is deeply entrenched in the lakou, and well-known lakou like Souvans, Soukri, and Badio maintain this cultural tradition unique to Haiti.

Beny chans preparations in Kabik
Photo: Anton Lau

4. Beny chans

It might seem strange from the looks of it initially, but if you happen to come across a large water bowl of mixed herbs and leaves while traveling through Haiti, then you’ve encountered a “beny chans.” Traditionally an herbal shower for women after giving birth, it is also considered a potion for good luck, finding a soulmate, or even protection during a life-changing trip.

If you didn’t grow up in Haiti, you might be wary about dipping your hands in this unusual mixture. Still, for locals, it’s all part of the unique Haitian culture – so much so that it wouldn’t be surprising for a native living abroad to return to Haiti to receive this sacred anointment on New Year’s eve.

Feeling adventurous? Go and give it a try. But don’t forget to tap into your African-Caribbean roots with our guide on returning to the motherland.

a vodou priest and practitioner performing a dance
Ritual at a Vodou ceremony
Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

5. Vodou ceremony and dance

Here’s one of the Haitian cultural traditions that will undoubtedly arouse your curiosity. Forget about the mainstream concept of a group of bloodthirsty Satanists gathering at a run-down Gothic-style church – this is Hollywood stereotyping at its best. Instead, think of an authentic spiritual experience where members enter a trance-like state in alignment with powerful spiritual entities.

Haitian culture isn’t the only one that has Vodou as a religious practice, with similar rituals actively performed in places like the Deep South” in Louisiana or the insular African nation of Benin. In countries such as Brazil and Cuba, the practice of Santeria is still common in many communities. The Haitian Vodou tradition, however, involves elements from years of syncretism, resulting in a blend of African, Christian, and Taíno spiritual traditions.

Vodou is a strong cultural tradition in the Haitian collective imagination—and it’s present in Haitian paintings, music, dances, and literature. More than simply religion or spirituality, Vodou is an intangible patrimony that all Haitians share, whether they consider themselves a true practitioner or not.

Ready for an experience of your own? Find out how to attend a Vodou ceremony in Haiti.

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

6. Fèt Gede

The dead occupy a place of central importance in Haitian daily life, and honoring them constitutes one of the most sacred cultural traditions. To do this, the entire month of November is consecrated each year to ceremonies aimed at appeasing the dead and communicating with them. The spirits that reign over the world of the dead in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Bawon Samdi and Grann Brigitte.

The Gédé symbolizes the spirits of those who have passed into the other world. During the ceremonies organized in their honor, they return to bring joy to the people with their frenzied dancing and salacious speech.

Every Haitian day of the dead celebration is packed with an aura of excitement and mysticism, which you can see for yourself in this photo journal from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaîves.

group of haitian walking while playing on trumpets during rara festivities
Rara band marching in Bois Moquette
Photo: Franck Fontain

7. Rara

Not all Haitian cultural traditions have origins as dark as those about death. In fact, some of them are rather joyous, and the Rara is a perfect example. These groups that march on foot along the streets during pre-Carnaval weekends and the Easter period constitute one of Haiti’s best-known cultural practices.

These spirited groups of bons vivants play various instruments, such as bamboo, the vaccine, cymbals, and sometimes even trumpets and other brass instruments. Their repertoire can run from parodies of popular songs to original songs and those written for special occasions.

Each group is preceded by a man who carries a flag, a woman who wears the group’s colors, and young girls who start the procession. Following are musicians and the rest of the good-natured group that dances along to the sound of the music.

Now, the practice of Rara isn’t only particular to Haiti; other Caribbean nations like Cuba and the Dominican Republic, where it is known as Gaga, have adopted this cultural tradition from Haiti.

Get the true origins behind the Rara tradition of Haiti and join the celebration!

A group of lansèt kod in Jacmel
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Lansèt kòd

If you visit Haiti during the Carnival period, you’ll undoubtedly have the chance to witness one of the most unforgettable cultural traditions: the famous procession of the Lansèt Kòd. Some Haitians will tell you that they were traumatized by it as children. These groups that flood the streets of towns such as Jacmel, Jérémie, or Cap-Haïtien on pre-Carnival Sundays have more than what it takes to impress.

Wearing bull horns on their heads and whips in hand, these men with rippling muscles and bare chests fill up the streets while covered entirely in black paint. Yes, you read that right—they are completely covered with a blacker-than-black substance that will surely make you think of crude oil. Throughout the Carnival procession, they’ll offer up a performance that will remain ingrained in your memory for some time.

Learn more about the Lansèt kòd tradition here!

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti
Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Carnival

The Haitian carnival is one of the most widely recognized in the Caribbean. The one hosted in Jacmel has been decreed a national festival due to its artistic allure, attracting numerous tourists every year. It is a brightly colored cultural manifestation where you’ll see Haitian artisans’ talent displayed in themes reminiscent of flora and fauna of the country.

This popular celebration is not only an occasion for artists and artisans to display their talents or attract visitors – but it’s also a means for the population to express their problems with the powers that be. It’s a celebration where all levels of society come together without embarrassment or worrying about societal barriers.

If you’re looking to be part of the festivities this February, then you’d better be prepared to party like a Haitian at Jacmel Carnaval.

A bowl of soup joumou
Soup Joumou
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Soup Joumou

If you visit any Haitian family on New Year’s Day, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by a culinary practice as old as Haiti: the traditional Soup Joumou preparation. So forget about your desire to eat anything else, and let our succulent soup seduce your tastebuds.

Prepared from a giraumont (turban squash) base, where the soup gets its name -as well as vegetables and tubers – this dish is a staple in all Haitian households on New Year’s Day. Don’t be surprised to see people incorporating Soup Joumou with every meal served during the entire celebration. It’s just that good.

This tradition hearkens back to January 1st, 1804, when the young nation chose this delicious dish – until then only reserved for the colonizers and special guests – to celebrate their freshly acquired liberty.

Want to find out what makes Soup Joumou so unique? Pick up on some of the history behind the dish, and learn the basics of preparing the best Soup Joumou.

Fête champêtre in Saut d’Eau
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Fête champêtre

Every city in Haiti has its own patron Saint to which the inhabitants turn to confess their troubles and joys or make special petitions. These cultural celebrations of the patron saints, also called fête champêtres, are on another level.

Regardless of their religious beliefs, locals from other provincial towns, as well as a crowd of curious onlookers and tourists, head toward the capital cities from each village to celebrate the feast dedicated to the patron saint.

Along with religious pilgrims, you also have the partygoers who are only there to enjoy the festival following the Grand Mass of the local parish. Among the most popular fêtes champêtres in Haiti are the celebrations of Notre Dame of Mount Carmel in Saut d’Eau and Notre Dame in Petit Goâve.

Gather with the locals and go on a pilgrimage to Saut d’Eau, whether for spiritual reasons or just to celebrate and party hard with the crowd.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published December 2022.


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15 Fun Facts About Haiti

Sail boat in Labadee
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fun Facts About Haiti

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You’ve probably already heard of Haiti, whether in the news, in history class, or elsewhere. But what exactly do you know about this magnificent country?

We’ve gathered some of the most surprising and interesting facts about our country and the amazing people living here. From cultural celebrations and old flags to weird food traditions and traveler-friendly facts. So, keep reading and get to know Haiti a bit better with these 15 fun facts!

Petite Cayemite island near Pestel
Photo: Anton Lau

1. Haiti is (part of) an island

If you plan to visit the Republic of Haiti, keep in mind that it’s, in fact, the western part of an island that it shares with another republic, the Dominican Republic. The name of this island is Hispaniola. The Dominican Republic lies to the east, and its capital is Santo Domingo. Haiti lies to the west, and its capital is Port-au-Prince. The two nations share, in addition to the island, an eventful history, with each possessing a unique cultural identity despite a few similarities they have in common.

Mountain forest in Seguin, La Visite National Park
Photo: Alamy

2. Haiti is mountainous

No matter where you may find yourself in Haiti, you’ll either be on a mountain range or have one in view. The country is made up of a series of breathtaking mountain landscapes. Actually, the very name Haiti means “mountainous land” in the Taíno language spoken by the island’s indigenous inhabitants.

So if you like hiking in the mountains, Haiti is the perfect tourist destination for you. Two main mountain ranges dominate the country’s topography, covering it from north to south. So, grab your hiking shoes and your camera, and come enjoy our mountain landscapes and the fresh air of the countryside!

sun rising over beach with palm trees and lifeguard chair
Sunrise over Ti Mouillage beach, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

3. It’s summer all year round

In Haiti, there’s sunshine and even more sunshine! In our country, the weather is nice all year round. The tropical climate typically means just one hot season and another season that’s a little milder. So, no matter the time of year, Haiti’s white sandy beaches are waiting to welcome you. Don’t forget to bring your bathing suit to take a dip in the ocean, because the summer is truly never over here – and that’s just a fact!

Labadee Beach
Photo: Shutterstock

4. We have breathtaking coastlines

The Caribbean is well-known for its lovely beaches, and our beaches are among the most beautiful in the region. You can visit Lover Island in Ile à Vache, Labadee in Cap-Haïtien, the Arcadins coast, the Anse Blanche beach close to Pestel, or Boukanye in Petit-Goâve. No matter where you go in Haiti, there’s a lovely white sand beach to discover!

Grotte Marie Jeanne
Photo: CavesOfHaiti.org

5. Haiti has the deepest cave in the Caribbean

Are you a fan of caving and exploring deep underground grottos? If so, dive into one of the Caribbean’s most spectacular cave adventures. With a massive cave system of more than four kilometers (two-and-a-half miles), the Grotte Marie Jeanne is the deepest cave in the Caribbean! Located in the south of Haiti by the city of Port-à-Piment, this impressive cave and its five levels of natural galleries and stalactites will, without a doubt, leave you speechless.

A bowl of soup joumou on a serving tray
Soup Joumou
Photo: Anton Lau

6. World-renowned food

When you discover Haitian cuisine, we are sure you’ll want to tell the whole world! In fact, we have a dish that UNESCO recognizes as part of the “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.” The dish that earned this high honor is a soup like no other, Soup Joumou. This soup is a real treat for the tastebuds, prepared with giraumont (turban squash), other vegetables, tubers, and meat. While traditionally eaten on New Year’s Day among families, as Americans do with Thanksgiving turkey, feel free to delight in this famous soup any time of the year! It’ll be our pleasure.

Read more about  Soup Joumou – The taste of freedom!

Haitian hot peppers
Photo: Anton Lau

7. Haitians enjoy spicy food

While we’re on the topic of Haitian cuisine, it might be a good time to let you know that Haitians eat particularly spicy food, as is the case for many of our Caribbean neighbors. Our cuisine is spiced with goat pepper, vinegar, and all the spices grown locally on the island. Before tasting a Haitian dish, you may want to prepare yourself, as the exceptionally spicy taste of our cuisine might take you by surprise!

Explore the flavors of Haitian cuisine through this culinary map!

Haitian spaghetti breakfast
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

8. Haitians eat spaghetti for breakfast

Let’s continue with the theme of Haitian cuisine. Don’t be too thrown off by our eating habits, which may differ from yours. For example, Haitians truly subscribe to the old adage that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, often eating rather heavy food as soon as they wake up. So, don’t be surprised if a Haitian offers you a big plate of spaghetti for breakfast!

Discover the Haitian street food you have to try!

Street vendors surrounded by baskets of colorful fresh produce at a market in Fermathe, Haiti
Street vendors, Fermathe
Photo: Franck Fontain

9. Degi

We have a word for what you get for free when you shop at our local markets. So, don’t forget to claim your degi the next time you visit a Haitian market. The vendor will willingly add this to your groceries if you have made a nice purchase or to encourage you to return!

Two schoolgirls laughing in Corail, Haiti
Schoolgirls in Corail
Photo: Franck Fontain

10. Greetings

You may be surprised by how many different greetings you hear when in Haiti. Thanks to the richness of Haitian Creole, you will hear much more than simply bonjou. Keep an ear out for greetings like sak pase (how are you?) or onè respè (cheers!).

haitian man dressed in purple shirt with human bones celebrating fet gede
Fèt Gede in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

11. Haitians don’t celebrate Halloween

If you’re a big lover of Halloween costumes and children trick or treating, you can forget about it in Haiti. Many Haitians have not even heard of this holiday, let alone celebrate it.

Instead, Haitians celebrate Fèt Gede, a cultural tradition much like All Saints Day and the Day of the Dead practiced in Mexico and other Latin American countries. Ceremonies are held throughout the month of November to appease the dearly departed, cemeteries are cleaned, and graves are painted to welcome the loa (spirits) of those who return to the earthly realm during this period.

Read more about this unique cultural tradition and see photos from a Fèt Gede celebration in Gonaïves!

Group of fisherman in Dame Marie, Haiti
Fishermen in Dame Marie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

12. Haitian Creole is the most spoken creole language in the world

When we talk about a “creole” language, we’re referring to a language that developed out of the meeting of Latin, African, and Amerindian languages during colonization and its aftermath. These languages are now spoken in many communities all over the world.

Haitian Creole, however, has the largest number of speakers in the world, and it’s also the most widely used language in Haiti. There’s even a Haitian proverb that testifies to the simplicity of the language and the fact that Haitian Creole is understood as easily as it is spoken: kreyol pale, kreyol konprann.

A jar of Haitian manba (spicy peanut butter)
Photo: Anton Lau

13. In our country, peanut butter is a little bit… extra

We’re guessing you’ve probably already tasted peanut butter. Here in Haiti, this creamy treat is known as manba, and it’s often used as a spread on bread or cassave, which is a flatbread made from cassava root. But what might surprise you — although maybe less so after reading this article — is that our peanut butter is particularly spicy since it’s mixed with hot peppers, ginger, and other local spices. This gives it a potent flavor that is unique to Haiti!

14. The famous novelist Alexandre Dumas is of Haitian origin

Haiti is known for its many poets and novelists who have won international awards, including authors such as Jacques Roumain, Frankétienne, Jean-Stephen Alexis, Marie Chauvet, Dany Laferrière, Edwidge Danticat, and Yanick Lahens. But among the most famous novelists in the world are Alexandre Dumas Jr. and Sr., who are of Haitian origin. The author of the classic novel The Three Musketeers (Dumas Sr.) is, in fact, the son of a mulatto general born in Jérémie when Haiti was still a colony of France.

15. How’s this for a fun fact? Venezuela’s flag was created in Haiti

You might know the flag of Venezuela with its stripes of yellow, blue, and red. But did you know the flag was first flown not in Venezuela but in the Haitian coastal city of Jacmel?  More precisely, on March 12th, 1806. The flag was designed in Jacmel by General Francisco de Miranda, a Venezuelan who began the struggle for the liberation of Venezuela, Ecuador, and Colombia. This struggle was taken up by Simon Bolivar with the help of then-Haitian president Alexandre Pétion.


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published October 2022.


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Photo Journal: Fèt Gede – A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

crowd gathered at haitian cemetery with big cross for fet gede ritual
Crowd gathered for Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fèt Gede: A celebration of Life on the Day of the Dead

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Every November in Haiti, there are festivities held throughout the month that, for an outsider, might seem, well, quite strange! In particular, the Fête Gede (Day of the Dead) and All Saint’s Day involve unsettling processions to the cemetery of each town around the country.

The crowd that gathers is a varied group, comprising people who are simply curious as well as people of all different faiths, including Hatian Vodou. They join together to walk to the main cemetery in each town, all the while following the unique spectacle that the procession offers. And what is this spectacle, exactly? Practitioners of Vodou taken over by the Gede, the spirits for whom these stunning celebrations in Haiti are held.

vodou practitioner holding a machete and colorful handkerchiefs
A Vodou practitioner celebrating Fèt Gede, Gonaïves Cemetary
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

In Vodou spirituality, the Gede are the spirits of the dead. They are responsible for accompanying the dead on the path toward the other world, but also of watching over the living. They thus constitute the bridge between the world of the living and the world of the dead. Two major Gede deities in the Haitian Vodou pantheon are Baron Samedi and Grann Brigitte.

gravestone at haitian cemetery during fet gede ritual
Fèt Gede rituals at the cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Those possessed by the gede spirits set the festival’s tone, which is truly carnivalesque. You might hear some rough language, see some dirty dancing, and witness other extravagant performances. All of these provide plenty of entertainment for the more docile crowd that follows along.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
A Vodou temple inside the Cemetary in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Fueled by alcohol, as well as hot pepper-based infusions that they sprinkle on their bodies, the procession heads toward the main cemetery. Overtaken by the spirits of the dead, the possessed swear and carry out quite a remarkable performance.

gravestone at haitian cemetery with two soda bottles and flowers
Offerings on a gravestone during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The spectacle of the procession attracts quite a crowd, and the possessed are easily recognizable due to the ritual colors of Baron Samedi that they wear (white, black, and purple). Some even cover themselves entirely with white powder or draw gloomy scenes on their bodies. Others choose to wear the preferred attire of Baron Samedi, which includes a black hat, monocle, and cane. Altogether, this creates a true Carnival of the Dead that happens every year in Haitian cemeteries.

haitian vodou practitioners wearing white filling a transparant bottle with liquid
Preparation during Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

This Festival of the Dead, which comprises rituals and dances all November long, testifies to the intimate link that exists between the world of the living and the world of the dead in Vodou spirituality. For practitioners of Vodou,  Fête Gede is really more like a celebration of life. The gede spirits who return via their hosts during possession can attest to this way of thinking. They are brought to life by joy and are spirits who love to laugh, dance, and have fun.

haitian vodou practitioner dancing at fet gede ritual with crowd watching
Vodou practitioners during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

All of these wild performances have just one objective: to amuse. The festival is not a moment for tears or regrets but rather a time to honor the memory of the departed. Part of this involves preparing for the festival by cleaning the cemeteries and restoring the tombs.

Those who have sailed for “the land without a hat” — a Haitian expression that means the “beyond,” because no one is buried with their hat — remain present in daily life and are nonetheless celebrated as they should be during this festival given in their honor. In Vodou spirituality, those who have set sail for the world of the dead maintain an important role in everyday life. The spirits of those who have passed on, bearing the name Gede, are respected as guardians, advisors, or vengeful spirits by those who remain.

The Fête Gede festival in Haiti is somewhat similar to the Day of the Dead as practiced in other parts of the world (e.g. Dia de los Muertos). The difference, however, lies in the place that the dead occupy in Vodou belief and in the syncretism underlying the various beliefs that Haitians hold.

haitian cemetery with sculpture and blue sky with clouds
Monument for the Gede spirit Brave, Gonaïves Cemetery
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

As a legacy of ancestral African traditions, Vodou reserves an important place for those who have departed this world for the next. In the procession of the Gede, different people portray different divinities, including Baron Samedi, Baron Lacroix, Baron Criminel, Grann Brigitte, and all the other Gede spirits. Much more than simple guardians of death and graveyards, the Gede are also guardians of life.

As such, the celebration of Fèt Gede is not just a celebration to commemorate the dead, but a celebration where the dead can take part by way of possession in the form of Gede spirits.

haitians gathered at cemetery for fet gede vodou ritual
A Vodou Priestess heading a ceremony for the spirit Brave Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

At the main cemetery in Port-au-Prince, where the biggest iteration of this festival is held each year, Catholics come to pray for the souls of their deceased at the small chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, Protestants come to gather at the graves of their lost loved ones, and practitioners of Vodou come for the largest celebration of the Fête Gede festival in all of Haiti.

haitian vodou practitioners lighting a candle during fet gede
A Vodou ritual at a ceremony during Fèt Gede Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The festival is at the very crossroads of Haiti’s religious syncretism, with Catholics and Protestants joining the procession to the cemeteries, all worshiping differently but each bearing the same thoughts for the departed, thoughts colored by the beliefs on which these extraordinary celebrations are based.

haitian vodou practitioner at cemetery wearing a black and purple dress
A Vodou ceremony for the Brave Gede spirit during Fèt Gede, Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Even if Fèt Gede is held on and around All Saint’s Day and the Day of the Dead, it’s a much different celebration than ones that you might see elsewhere. It’s a true moment of communion between the dead and the living, the latter of whom brings coffee, roasted corn, cassava, clairin (rum), or the favorite dish of the lost loved one.

haitian man holding a part of a human skull for fet gede
Fèt Gede in Gonaïves
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

One might even be tempted to say that Fèt Gede is much more than a simple set of practices based on certain beliefs about death — rather, it constitutes a genuine philosophy of life, a life that must be lived like a carnival. If we enjoy every moment, it won’t be the Gede who contradict us!


Written by Costaguinov Baptiste.

Published in October 2022.


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Quiz – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

handpainted haitian boardgame with soccer players
Haitian board game in Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Test Your Knowledge – How Many Facts about Haiti Do You Know?

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Ever been to Haiti? Yes, no, maybe so? Regardless, we hope you find this quiz fun and informative. If you’re a new visitor, hopefully this quiz will inspire you to experience Haiti up close! Let’s test your knowledge on the ins and outs with these 18 cultural facts about Haiti.


Let’s test your knowledge on these cultural facts about Haiti

How did it go? If you’re feeling brave like Toussaint Louverture our “How Haitian are you?” Quiz is just right for you! If you want to access your inner Captain Morgan try our “Can You Place 12 Haitian Cities on the Map?” Quiz!


Created by Zachary Warr.

Published December 2021.


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The Cordasco House (Villa Miramar)

exterior view of old gothic gingerbread mansion with balcony and green trees
The Cordasco House (Villa Miramar) in Pacot
Photo: Lëa-Kim Châteauneuf / Wikimedia Commons

The Cordasco House (Villa Miramar)

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First impressions

If you drive into Port-au-Prince from the south-east (maybe after a weekend in Jacmel) you can’t miss the charismatic Cordasco House. At a fork in the road where you turn right to continue into PAP proper, rising above you is the yellow, orange, and creamy-brown heights of one of Haiti’s most photogenic Gingerbread mansions. This is the Cordasco House, also known as Maison Cordasco, Villa Miramar, and “Le Petit Trianon” in honour of the palace of the same name in Versailles. In Haitian Kreyòl, Cordasco House is affectionately known as Ti Trianon.

As a child, I remember sitting in the back of a pickup truck coming back from Jacmel and looking up in awe at the latticework, turrets, and high, rounded towers. The high-walled gardens overflowed with the tops of frangipani trees, their aromatic waxy flowers heavy. The house was as imposing as any fairytale castle I could conjure, and my childhood self wondered if Haiti’s own Rapunzel lived up in those towers.

Gingerbread houses are ornate turn-of-the-century buildings unique to Haiti. Like their edible namesake, Gingerbreads are famous for steep roofs and ornate details highlighted in vibrant, contrasting colours. They are architecturally fascinating for a number of reasons – not least because they’ve proven to be surprisingly resistant to earthquakes.

In 2020, I was invited by a colleague in the arts to take a private tour of Cordasco house, and I finally got to go through the tall gates I had been gazing at in wonder since childhood.

stairs to large door entrance to house with decorative metal details
Villa Miramar sign above the main entrance at the Cordasco House (Villa Miramar)
Photo: Lëa-Kim Châteauneuf / Wikimedia Commons

Take a peek inside Cordasco House

At the gates, a stone-faced guard greets me with a twinkle in his eye – one part artisan, one part soldier, I soon discover – and swings open the gate. A long, wide driveway, lined by flowering trees, winds toward the four-story turreted mansion. Large, heavy stone vases are embedded in the entryway masonry, flanking the double staircase leading to the main door.

Cordasco House and many others like it were rapidly built in Port-au-Prince starting in the 1860s, as Port-au-Prince’s economic and industrial growth skyrocketed. At that time, as Haiti’s only port open to foreign trade, it was the epicenter of commerce on the island. A new bourgeoisie class of affluent traders, businesspeople, and educated professionals flourished. Opportunity was everywhere, and as the city’s population grew in tandem with its economy, the newly wealthy class migrated out of the chaotic downtown core to the evergreen eastern hillsides of Turgeau, Bois Verna, and Pacot with gorgeous views of the bay. This district is where you’ll find many of the attractions on our self-guided gingerbread tour.

Villa Miramar, the name given to the house by its original owners, can still be seen traced in wrought iron filigree above the main entrance that arches above the grand staircase. As appreciation for the gingerbread style grew, the house increasingly became known as maison Cordasco, after one of the most famous architects of the style.

There’s two theories on who designed and built the Cordasco House. One theory claims the house was built by Fioravante Cordasco, an Italian-born architect active in Haiti until the mid-twentieth century, and an integral part of the gingerbread movement. Although the nickname of “the Cordasco house” lends weight to Cordasco theory, a joint project by Haitian art collective FOKAL and Columbia University writes that the house was actually built by Parisian-trained Haitian architect Joseph-Eugène Maximilien. According to FOKAL, Maximilien built the house in 1914 for the lady Ewald Clara Gauthier.

facade of old gothic gingerbread mansion with decorative fretworks and latticeworks
Facade of the Cordasco House (Villa Miramar) in Pacot
Photo: Lëa-Kim Châteauneuf / Wikimedia Commons

The guard waves me to drive my car past the main house, to where a second, separate building stands. A series of smaller houses stretches behind the mansion’s back, many of them with ornate balconies and gingerbread trim. Towering trees, manicured gardens and pools complete the picture.

The gingerbread architectural style in which the Cordasco House is built is truly creole, blending together foreign influences with local materials in an ornamental way. For example, Haitian gingerbread houses adopt 1830s Victorian “picturesque” features like intricate trim that resembles lace, but execute it with locally available and affordable elements like timber-slatted siding. The classic flamboyant colors of Victorian houses are intensified to neon.

Here in Haiti, the vaulted ceilings sometimes seen in Victorian architecture are an essential feature, improving air circulation in the sultry eternal summer of the Caribbean. To provide shade from the Haitian sun and accommodate the need for daily meeting space, where much of Haitian life takes place, gingerbread houses have wide galleries and porches, integrated into the faux-Victorian aesthetic with intricately adorned latticework.

Climbing up the main steps, I enter a high-ceilinged ante-chamber which opens out onto a three-story winding wooden staircase, rising up, up, up into the rafters. On either side are the principle rooms of the ground floor, framed by intricately-carved doorways.

interior of gingerbread mansion with old wodden staicase
Wooden staircase at the Cordasco House (Villa Miramar)
Photo: Lëa-Kim Châteauneuf / Wikimedia Commons

In the 1970s and 80s, the Cordasco House rose to new fame in the city as a tea house and fashionable boutique under the name Le Petit Trianon, and many of Haiti’s society ladies recall stories of lunching in these airy rooms.

The early 1990s saw the gingerbread house become a home once again, as a private residence to members of the Hudicourt family. One former resident, Lorraine Hudicourt, currently the owner-operator of La Lorraine Boutique Hotel, recalls fond memories of climbing the frangipani flower trees in the front yard in her youth, and playing hide and seek in the fourth-floor attic space with her many sisters and tribe of cousins. In those days, the gates were often open all day as children and cousins came and went, bringing life, laughter and mischief to all corners of the vast property. Housekeepers slept in the sprawling staff quarters at the top of the property, themselves equivalent in size to three Haitian middle-class houses.

Indicating where I should place my step due to earthquake damage, the groundskeeper leads me up the staircase to the second and third floors. Each doorway, each moulding, is intricately carved. Green granite countertops and Portugese tiles decorate the bathrooms. The slanted floors bely the age of this grand old lady, but do nothing to diminish her dignity or grandeur.

interior of old gothic gingerbread mansion with tile floor and structual damage
Ground floor at the Cordasco House (Villa Miramar) in Pacot
Photo: Lëa-Kim Châteauneuf / Wikimedia Commons

The Cordasco House survived the 2010 earthquake, but not without some bruising. The walls suffered several large cracks, and the three-story spiraling staircase that rises up through the house’s center was destabilized. Fortunately, though much of Haiti’s capital had been levelled by the disaster, the Cordasco House’s foundations were undamaged.

The Cordasco house’s resilience is part of a surprising trend. U.S. conservation experts discovered that only five percent of the estimated 300,000 gingerbread houses of Haiti had partially or fully collapsed due to the earthquake, in contrast to forty percent of all other structures, most of which had been considered to be in better condition. The Wall Street Journal suggests that Haiti’s Gingerbread architecture could serve as a model for seismic-resistant structures in the future.

In the immediate aftermath of the earthquake, the owners opened up “Ti Trianon” as an improvised hospital for earthquake victims, run by Medecins Sans Frontieres. Part of the house continued to be rented out to NGOs for several years, and was fitted with impromptu walls to delineate offices and cubicles. By 2018 though, many international charities had largely pulled out of Port-au-Prince with their budgets in tow, and office rental in the Cordasco House came to a halt. For two years, only the trusty guardian graced the dozens of rooms, protecting this historic property.

In early 2020, the owners threw open the shutters to sunlight once more, investing in renovations. The neighbourhood of Pacot became a flurry of movement as gallons of fresh white paint coated the Cordasco House’s interior and new scaffolding was erected against the famous facade, ready to usher in another new era of the house’s rich history.

By the time I step out onto the uppermost balcony, an orange and pink sunset is unfurling over the bay of Port-au-Prince.

balcony with decorative fretworkand latticework details
Balcony with view of Port-au-Prince at the Cordasco House (Villa Miramar)
Photo: Lëa-Kim Châteauneuf / Wikimedia Commons

Cordasco House is currently not open to the public, but you can see it from the corner of Rue Pacot and Avenue N in the area of Pacot, Port-au-Prince.

Want to see inside a gingerbread house? Here are my two top picks nearby:

Gingerbread Restaurant: For those looking for a fabulous gingerbread house as a backdrop for photos or a video shoot, we encourage you to discover this nearby gingerbread mansion of equivalent grandeur. Known for great cocktail hours by the pool, Gingerbread Restaurant also does great pizza and salads, and the herring and cod croquettes are out of this world.

Open to the public, Gingerbread Restaurant is located on 22 Rue 3, Pacot. Look for the light blue gate. Open 11am to 10pm Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays.

Hôtel Villa Thérèse: This three-story gingerbread mansion is distinctly different from most of the gingerbread houses, but its pink turrets and ornate masonry, painted in soft yellows and vibrant blues, clearly draw on the same tradition. Villa Therese operates as a boutique hotel, but you don’t need to book a stay to see inside – anyone can visit the restaurant, open 6:30am to 9:30pm.

Hôtel Villa Thérèse is at 13 Rue Leon Nau Nerette, Petion-Ville.

For a list of gingerbread houses open to the public, check out our guide to gingerbread houses in Haiti.

exterior view of old gothic gingerbread mansion
The Cordasco House (Villa Miramar) in Pacot
Photo: Lëa-Kim Châteauneuf / Wikimedia Commons

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published December 2021


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Visit the Oloffson Hotel

facade of gothic style gingerbread hotel with palm trees
Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Visit the Oloffson Hotel

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The iconic Hotel Oloffson, a gothic “Gingerbread” mansion surrounded by a lush tropical garden, has been described as the most iconic hotel of not just Haiti but the whole Caribbean. The rickety 19th-century mansion is amazingly intact given its location in the centre of a city that has seen so much destruction.

While I wait for the black iron gates to open, passersby weave around my car. I honk again, and the gates creak open just enough to let me through. A doorman in a black cap and a faded T-shirt nods at me, then promptly creaks the gate shut again.

A winding cobblestone path flanked by green foliage disappears into deep gardens. There’s no hotel in sight. Instead, wrought iron sculptures with diabolic faces peer out from between the leaves. More and more strange sculptures appear, some created from car parts in a style I recognize as belonging to the Atis Resistance movement.

As the driveway winds further uphill, the white lattice of the mansion roof appears over the palm trees and mango leaves. On the left side of the driveway, a glittering white-and-mirror mosaic wall emerges into view. In the center, the mural shows a red and blue boat. Trained eyes know that more than a simple sailboat, this is actually a dedication to the vodou spirit of the sea, Agwe. Near the anchor that dips into the white waves, sacred inscriptions hint at the magic and folklore that infuses Hotel Oloffson.

Baron Samedi sculpture, Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Parking on a cobblestone flatway, I turn off the motor, and approach the famous front entrance of the Hotel Oloffson. Craning to look up, I marvel at the nest-like widow’s peak and the many turreted balconies on the upper floors. This particular example of gingerbread architecture was described as “an illustration from a book of fairy tales” by American author Graham Greene who once lived and wrote here. A fan of Wes Anderson Movies, I imagine the Hotel Oloffson as a Caribbean cousin to The Grand Budapest Hotel.

An air of sleepiness and reverie envelops the front steps which veer off to the left and right. Everything is painted white – the bricks, the timber upper stories, the intricately carved wood panels that section off the balconies. In an alcove set into the white stone base of a staircase, several sculptures stand watch, including a three-foot-high man who represents the Gede family of vodou lwa. The Gede are the gods of the crossroads between life and death celebrated annually during the Haitian Day of the Dead.

hotel restauarant veranda with tile floor green doors
Restaurant veranda at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The Hotel Oloffson Restaurant

At the top of the stairs, an ancient-looking butler stands sentinel at the restaurant entrance. Behind him, an expansive verandah leads through a sequence of lobby rooms to a concert stage. I nod to the butler and choose a table in the far corner, overlooking the city of Port-au-Prince and the strip of azure sea beyond. A century of politicians, musicians, local artists and vodou priests have sat in this same chair.

The butler takes my order – the Oloffson’s famous rum punch cocktail and a side of accra – and shuffles over nineteenth-century mosaic tiles to disappear behind saloon doors painted with a vivid Haitian countryside scene. Haitian art is smattered across the grounds. The corner table of the Oloffson verandah is an excellent vantage point to take in the art collection that begins in the sculpture garden below and creeps up to the mansion, covering nearly every wall of the hotel lobby, restaurant, and its myriad guest rooms.

Above the table, a pearly pink-and-white sequined flag catches my eye. It carries one of the lwa cosmograms- sacred designs that act like a beacon, calling down the corresponding spirit. The curving heart shape indicates this is a flag created for Erzulie Freda – spirit of love and protector of children.

hotel bar interior with liquor bottles and old framed mirror
Bar at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

What to order

For starters, try the Oloffson’s famous rum punch cocktail, or a rum sour if you’re after something simpler. The best accompaniment is accra: the deep-fried, very spicy batter made from malanga root is prepared with special care in the hotel kitchen below, and arrives with a heaping pile of spiced pikliz – best eaten with your fingers.

old gothic style gingerbread hotel with lush green trees
Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

History

The mansion was built as the primary residence for the Sam family, an influential clan that boasts two former presidents of Haiti among its ranks. In 1915, following the infamous death of its owner at the hands of political protestors, the Sam mansion was seized by US military forces. The mansion served as a US military hospital until the US occupation ended in 1934.

Few visitors to Haiti know how the famed Hotel Oloffson got its current name, but I’ll let you in on the secret. In 1935, when the US occupation ended, the mansion was leased to a Swedish sea captain named Werner Gustav Oloffson, who wanted to retire from life on the open water in Haiti’s summery climate. Along with his wife Margot and two children, Captain Oloffson set about converting the lush expansive gardens, gingerbread mansion and hospital wing into Haiti’s finest hotel.

In the 1950s, 60s and 70s, the hotel went Hollywood. An outpost for the rich and fabulous, the Oloffson hosted the American political and cultural elite – Jackie Onassis Kennedy would often be found fanning herself on the nest-like balcony of the grand honeymoon suite. The emerald-green swimming pool in the garden hosted an endless stream of parties for musicians, models and writers, as one expat owner after the other took their turn at the helm.

Many of the rooms now boast hand-painted placards with the name of a famous past guest. Visitors can sleep in the Mick Jagger room, Jackie O room, Graham Greene room and more. Like their erstwhile guests, the hotel corridors are anything but straight and narrow: some suites are situated above the swimming pool, connected by hidden corridors. Others you reach by a winding narrow staircase off the main lobby. The staircase to the second floor is an ancient wooden construction that sinks underfoot in places, and leads further up into lofty galleries, then through a wooden passageway. Still more wooden passages take visitors into the wing that once held the American military hospital. The most sought-after rooms are in the main mansion, just above the lobby.

"Sunsan Sarandon" handpainted placard with flowers
Susan Sarandon placard, Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Live Music

Every Saturday night at the Oloffson, the band RAM – an absolute national treasure – delivers an unforgettable performance of vodou-infused rock. If you’re not a guest at the hotel or paying for a sit-down dinner, you’ll need to pay an entry fee of 500 HTG (about 5 U.S. dollars). The show starts around 10:30. Expect sing-a-longs with an enthusiastic crowd and dancing all night long. (Note that until recently, RAM played every Thursday, but changed to Saturdays in 2020.)

Weekly performances by RAM have become a ceremonial-grade ritual loved by all levels of society. Remarkably, in a country where consistency is hard to find, the band has consistently gigged at the Oloffson since 1990, when the band’s frontman took over running the hotel.

A “vodou rock and roots” band, RAM incorporates traditional vodou lyrics and instruments, such as rara horns and Petwo drums, into rock, and their lyrics are sung in a macaronic medley of Haitian creole, French and English.

Read more about RAM concerts at Hotel Oloffson here.

handpainted toy bus with Hotel Oloffson logo
Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

The 2010 earthquake

After the 2010 earthquake, the Oloffson was one of the few hotels left standing in Port-au-Prince. Some joked that the ancient structure was held together by termites in the wood and magic in the rafters, but research has since shown that Haiti’s traditional gingerbread houses are surprisingly earthquake resistant.

The Oloffson became a major hub for the influx of humanitarian workers and global media outlets that descended on the capital. The expansive porches and grounds were an informal HQ for foreigners and emissaries of the estimated hundred thousand charities who became active in the “NGO Republic” of Port-au-Prince. Anyone seeking a meeting or rendezvous point defaulted to the Oloffson.

Era after era, the space has served its guests loyally. The Oloffson has been a family home, hotel, hospital, jam-hall, meeting place, humanitarian headquarters, art gallery, and celebrity escape.

The Hotel Oloffson stands guard over downtown Port-au-Prince, undeterred by rebellion, earthquake, or the famous faces that wander its corridors. The beauty of the fairytale is still unraveling, and seated comfortably in my chair with this view, I feel grateful for yet another chance to weave my own story into the stories of those who have come before. Sipping my rum punch, I wonder what will become of this space in another fifty years. Who will drive up the garden passage, and what incarnation of the Oloffson will they find?

interior of hotel guest room with wodden desk and sunlight
Balcony room at Hotel Oloffson
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Stay at the Oloffson

Almost a century after Captain Oloffson took over the sprawling gingerbread mansion, the Oloffson is still running as a boutique hotel.

Guests can stay in one of 22 rooms, dine at the in-house restaurant and lounge at the outdoor pool. All suites include a free continental breakfast, free WiFi, and free parking. One of the Oloffson’s attractions is its seclusion, and to save you having to travel into the city for essentials, there’s even a convenience store on site.

RAM plays on Saturday nights. The show is free for hotel guests and dinner customers.

The Oloffson is hidden from view on 60 Ave Christophe, Port-au-Prince, in the neighbourhood of Saint Gérard, just near trendy Pacot.

Within a short walk you’ll find the Museum of Haitian ArtChamps de Mars Square and the National Pantheon Museum. Haiti’s main airport is a 10 minute drive away.

Book your stay now!

facade of gothic style gingerbread hotel with palm trees and dog
Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Jean Oscar Augustin

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published October 2020.


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