Haiti Up Close

Passion Fruit & Poisson Gros Sel: The Haitian Cuisine

November 16, 2018 by Editor

Fried shrimps in a cast iron skillet at the Habitation Turpin restaurant, Petion-Ville, Haiti — Fried shrimps at Habitation Turpin, Petion-Ville
Photo: Anton Lau

Passion Fruit & Poisson Gros Sel: The Haitian Cuisine

Haiti has a bright and vivid culture, and there is no place where it is reflected more boldly than in Haitian cuisine.

One of the best ways to get to know a country is through local cuisine. You’ll find out who cooks, what they like, where they came from, and what they value the most in their day-to-day life.

Port-au-Prince offers incredible culinary diversity. While signature Haitian dishes have variations throughout the country, the convergence of people from every city means you can find (almost) everything in Port-au-Prince.

The capital city’s culinary richness is built on a whole island worth of food culture, and most of the dishes you sample in Port-au-Prince feature ingredients grown right here in Haiti.

Woman making pikliz at a market in Jacmel, Haiti — Street vendor making pikliz, Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

There is no pikliz quite like the one made with local onions from the south of the country; ti joslin tomatoes, grown right here in Haiti, bring a special kind of sweetness to a salad; and is a plate of diri kole really complete without fresh watercress from the mountains of Fermathe?

While brand-name foods are imported to the island, the variety of local food is quite impressive. Haitians plant, grow, and eat a huge variety of produce!

The best way to get acquainted with the wide range of flavors available in the Haitian pantry is to check out your local farmer’s market.

The yellow and blue exterior of Gingerbread Restaurant in Pacot, Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Gingerbread Restaurant, Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to find Haitian cuisine

Looking for a true introduction to Haitian cuisine? Port-au-Prince houses the best names in the business, such as La Coquille, La Réserve, and Presse Café in Pétion-Ville, Gingerbread in Pacot, or La Plaza in downtown Port-au-Prince. These restaurants are great places to sample typical Haitian cuisine. For a special treat, Le Florville in Kenscoff has a popular Sunday brunch. It’s a great way to enjoy a relaxed Haitian dining experience.

For some of Haiti’s famous seafood, head to Océane and Coin des Artistes in Pétion-Ville. Their produce is almost entirely locally sourced, and it’s great to know you’re supporting local fishermen. Coin des Artistes hosts live music performances throughout the week, and the home-grown beats are a great accompaniment to their delicious dishes!

Piles of colorful fresh produce at a market in Fermathe, Haiti — Fresh produce at market in Fermathe
Photo: Franck Fontain

Flavour staples and seasonal produce

Carrots, onions, tomatoes, eggplants, chayotes – more commonly known here as militon –, and any and all beans under the Haitian sun are readily available country-wide, and depending on when you’re here, there’s usually a bounty of fruit and veg in season. Iceberg lettuce is the most widely available lettuce in Haiti, from farmers’ markets to supermarkets; green leaf lettuce is more widely available in supermarkets, as it is grown in greenhouses in the hills of Fermathe.

If you have more of a sweet tooth, you’ll be thrilled to find out that Haiti delivers here as well! Haitian bananas are a breakfast staple, and one of the sweetest in the entire Caribbean – they come in two varieties: the normal, standard banana and a smaller, finger-sized variety called ti malis. Citrus fruits are also a big part of Haitian cuisine – everything from passionfruit to green limes can be turned into a juice or a scrumptious dessert. Sweet potatoes find their way into desserts such as pen patat, and cashews from the city of Cap-Haïtien are turned into delicious candied bars, known as tablèt nwa.

If you would like to see and taste for yourself, Port-au-Prince is chock-full of offerings for everything you could crave!

Haitian fisherman with his catch in a traditional boat near Pestel, Haiti — Fisherman, Pestel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Trade winds

Even in the Caribbean, though, produce does go in and out of season. So where do restaurants turn when a key ingredient can’t be sourced locally?

Supermarkets are stocked with preserves and brand-name items from around the island and around the world. When oranges aren’t in season in Haiti, you’ll still find freshly squeezed OJ – it just carries a different passport. If a dessert features a specialty fruit or vegetable, it’s imported, as are several staples. For example, finding lemons grown in Haiti can prove difficult, but you’ll find lemons, milk, olive oil and black pepper in the supermarket.

This doesn’t make Haiti’s dining options – whether fine or homely – any less authentic. On the contrary, it is a colorful illustration of how most people, things, and places in Haiti come together: from many places, to form one, beautiful display, laced with history.

The restaurants and ingredients listed above are just the beginning. Why not venture out to other spots in your neighborhood in Haiti – a true gem may be right around the corner!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

Top things to see in Haiti

Is it really safe to travel to Haiti?

November 15, 2018 by Editor

Boat taxis poling in to shore at Ile-a-Vache beach, Haiti — Boats at Ile-a-Vache, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Is it really safe to travel to Haiti?

One of America’s closest neighbours, Haiti has long been a source of fascination. American celebrities turned Haiti into one of the popular Caribbean holiday destinations in the 1960s and 70s, but this changed as Haiti suffered increasingly inept rule in the 70s and 80s. Decades of poverty, political instability and plain bad luck followed.

Is it safe to travel to Haiti?

Finally, after a decade of relatively peaceful democratic government, a tourism bounce-back has begun, and a new generation of tourists are discovering what makes Haiti so special. Haiti is becoming a sought-after experience for adventure-driven travelers, the culturally curious, and Millennials who’ve visited the Caribbean already and are seeking something different.

Since the 2010 earthquake, Haiti has been on the road to reconstruction. For several years, national icons lay in rubble and whole city squares cordoned off for repair, but the Caribbean nation is now recovering well. With tourism vital for continued prosperity, keeping visitors safe and satisfied is a priority for locals and government policy reflects this.

In fact, the 2019 Global Peace Index ranks Haiti at #87 out of the 163 countries on the list. According to the list, Haiti is more peaceful than many popular tourist destinations like Morocco, Brazil, Thailand, Kenya, the Philippines, Mexico, India and – interestingly – USA (#128).

Americans, Canadians and most Europeans can visit Haiti without a visa at all, making it a great alternative to Cuba. The Travel and Tourism Competitiveness Index ranks Haiti very well when it comes to openness and value-for-money. Over the last ten years, tourism has doubled.

If you’re considering travel to Haiti, you probably still have some questions, so here are a few answers to help you before a first-time visit to the Caribbean island nation:

The current generation has grown up with images of Haiti suffering the effects of the 2010 earthquake, but the last decade has actually seen less political unrest, inequality and crime. Haiti remains poor, but it’s perfectly safe for visitors to walk around the cities on foot or travel across the country to see the many cultural icons and natural wonders, either alone or with a local guide.

As in any large city in the US, people visiting should take sensible precautions when in Port au Prince or Haiti’s other cities. But there’s no significant security threat, and it’s easy to find the parts of town safe for travellers to wander. It’s very common to see foreigners walking around unaccompanied in the streets of Port-au-Prince.

While political unrest can be a cause for worry, it should be noted that most of these events affect very specific politically active groups, not individual people going about their daily life, and certainly not foreigners.

Boat painter smiling in Dame Marie, Haiti — Boat painter in Dame Marie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

How to stay safe

Traffic in Haiti is fairly unregulated, so it serves to look both ways, twice, before crossing any street. As in any big city in the world, pickpockets are out there, so make sure that you keep your belongings close and out of your pockets – preferably in a small bag or pouch you can carry in your hand, or across your chest.

Current travel advisories: The US consulate currently has a Level 3 travel advisory for Haiti (issued 11 June 2019), and recommends that travellers stay safe by changing currency in advance (so you can avoid banks and ATMs), avoiding demonstrations, not attempting to go through roadblocks, and booking official, professional transport from the airport to your accommodation.

Two schoolgirls laughing in Corail, Haiti — School girls, Corail
Photo: Franck Fontain

How to stay healthy

From a medical point of view, Haiti is generally safe as long as you’re reasonably careful about what you eat and drink. Although tap water is considered generally safe for locals and long-term expats to drink, visitors who are in Haiti for only a short while are advised to avoid the risk of short-term stomach upsets by drinking bottled water. It’s cheap in the cities and not always available in small towns and on the road, so stock up before you venture out.

For more on what to eat, check out our guide to the delicious and distinctive street food of Haiti.

Get vaccinated before you go: Diphtheria, Hepatitis A and Tetanus shots are all recommended, but depending on your level of risk your doctor may recommend a few more.

Haitian woman smiling in a straw hat, in Abricot — Woman in Abricot
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

Should you hire a local guide?

Yes. Your journey to all sights worth seeing – whether cultural icons like the World Heritage listed Citadelle, or natural wonders like Bassin Zim, or adventure destinations like Pic La Selle – will be improved if you go with a guide. Guides will ensure your safety, help you find the best routes, keep hawkers and hustlers at a distance and explain the local significance of the sights.

Even if you’re planning to stay in the city, it’s well worth a guided tour at the start to help you get your bearings and put you in a better position to enjoy the rest of your stay solo, without worrying about the local dos and don’ts.

Keep in mind that the two common languages in Haiti are Creole and French – if you don’t speak French, a tour guide is even more invaluable for helping you find your way around.

Is there internet?

Yes. Wifi is widely available in accommodation and restaurants.

Are there hotels up to an American standard?

One of the best things about Haiti as a travel destination is that it’s relatively free of juggernaut five-star resorts that dominate the landscape in other more well-trodden Caribbean destinations. In Haiti, you can ditch the noisy crowds and find much more down-to-earth experiences of beachside paradise.

That’s not to say you can’t find luxury – there are several resorts and mid-size hotels dotted around the cities and exclusive beachfront destinations along the coast. Within the cities, there’s a good selection of boutique hotels to suit your budget and style.

Airbnb is gaining popularity too, with dozens of offerings across Haiti’s major cities from art-filled family homes to free-standing villas where you can sip rum sours in your own infinity pool.

What are the travel restrictions for visiting Haiti?

Americans, Canadians and most Europeans can visit Haiti without a visa at all, as long as you plan to stay for less than three months.

Upon your arrival to the island, you’ll be required to pay a USD $10 tourist fee, before you get in line to go through Customs.

Visa requirements:

The list of countries of which Haiti requires a Visa is very short: Syria, Libya, Iran, Vietnam, Yemen, and Chechnya. If you are visiting from the Dominican Republic, Panama, or Columbia, just make sure that you have a valid US, Canadian, or Schengen visa in your passport.

Haiti allows foreigners to stay for up to three months, after which they need to regularize their status. If you are planning to stay in Haiti for a long stretch of time, make sure that you keep this in mind and book your travel arrangements accordingly.

People relaxing on a waterside bench in Pestel, Haiti — People relaxing, Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Why visit Haiti?

Haiti is home to stunning beaches, unique Creole language and cuisine, a proud heritage of hard-won freedom and independence, and inspiring historical attractions.

Haiti is also home to the Caribbean’s premiere art scene, with an abundance of galleries and artist-owned initiatives showcasing distinctive Haitian styles. You’ll find thriving artist colonies in Grand Rue, Jacmel and Noailles.

Haiti’s most iconic historic site, the Citadelle fortress outside Cap Haïtien, houses the world’s biggest collection of 19th-century cannons and artillery. The island’s compelling past is expertly displayed at some of the Caribbean’s best museums, including the Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon on Champ-des-Mars.

The culturally curious can catch the Thursday-night Vodou rock show in downtown Port-au-Prince, or witness the whirlwind of costumes, music and performance during one of the many annual festivals.

Throughout a history of amazing achievements and heartbreaking disasters, the people of Haiti have demonstrated incredible resilience, creativity and determination.

Don’t miss your chance to soak up some of this spirit and sample what this unique culture has to offer. Visit Haiti.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

Top things to see in Haiti

10 Years after the Earthquake in Haiti

November 10, 2018 by Editor

People walking, carrying containers, across the horizon at sunset, Haiti — People walking in the sunset
Photo: Kolektif 2 Dimansyon

10 Years after the Earthquake in Haiti: The Long Road Back to Growth

Almost ten years on, we take a look at how the nation is recovering, and what it needs now from the international community.

Some things never really fade from the fabric of memory. For Haitians, and many people watching from around the world, the earthquake of January 12, 2010 was devastating.

The damage wrought by the earthquake was more than physical. A sense of grief and the injustice of this random event hovered over the twenty-seven thousand square miles of Haiti; a thick grey cloud no one called for, and many believed was here to stay.

How could Haiti possibly get back up after a blow like this?

In the twenty-four hours after the earthquake, most people had the same answer to that question, and that was to do what they knew how to do best: be there for one another.

It wasn’t easy. To this nation of people tempered by centuries of struggle, this enemy was the hardest to fight. There was no battle, no rallying cry, no tangible chains to be broken. In less than a single minute, the landscape of Haiti as we all knew it had changed forever, and in the darkness of a January evening, it was hard to see the light of hope.

But if there is one thing that Haitians have learned to master over the years, it is taking misfortune and turning it into strength and resilience.

Group of fisherman in Dame Marie, Haiti — Fishermen, Dame Marie
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Over the course of that afternoon, all throughout that night, and for the next two to three weeks following the earthquake, the true colors of the Haitian people shone bright. People helped complete strangers, volunteered to clear rubble, distributed food and supplies, and opened their front and back yards to folks looking for a place to make sense of their new life. Beyond the ceaseless static of dreadful international news reports, a shift was taking place.

Haitians were pulling other Haitians through the worst of it all.

It is that Haitian resourcefulness, that Haitian spirit, that Haitian perspective on life that saw hundreds of thousands through the worst of the earthquake aftermath. Nobody knew where the next meal would come from, when we would rebuild, or whether there would even be a tomorrow – but we made the most of those grim moments. Late at night, strangers bonded on sidewalks, next to street food vendors; families woke up to each new sunrise on salvaged mattresses in their front yards, grateful to see the dawn. Life in Port-au-Prince was lived day by day.

“Kòman nou ye?” “Nou lèd, men nou la.”
“How are you?” “We are ugly, but we are here.”

After the earthquake, life was indeed ugly. The blow came swiftly and unexpectedly; and while Haitians across the country were fighting their way through each day, it wasn’t easy to recover. With over 230,000 killed, there were fewer people to repair the damages, and their families were grieving for them while they tried to rebuild. Non-governmental organizations, charities and volunteers distributed first aid kits and food to neighborhoods in need, and eased people into temporary housing installations – but something was missing.

Tourism numbers had dropped off a cliff.

Five runners jogging over the suspension bridge in Chameau, Haiti — Dining area at Maraca restaurant in Santo Domingo
Photo: Anton Lau

In times of natural disaster-induced crisis, the instinctive reaction is to put a band-aid over whatever is broken or hurting – literally and figuratively. Emergency care is a big priority, and people came from across the US and the world to volunteer. But after the first few months, what Haiti really needed for rehabilitation was more visitors.

In its prime location in the heart of the Caribbean, Haiti is a natural tourist destination: with the turquoise Caribbean sea lapping at a thousand miles of coasts, sunny weather throughout most of the year, plenty of natural treasures to discover, and a bold and rich culture, Haiti is a tropical El Dorado waiting to be discovered.

After months of international news reporting that painted Haiti as a disaster zone, it’s hard to blame travellers for staying away. But this stagnation in the tourism sector was an extra setback for Haiti.

There’s another factor that often goes overlooked, too. In 2010, the whole Caribbean was enduring the effects of the financial crisis.

While dealing with a massive natural disaster, Haiti was also sharing the weight of the Great Recession with the rest of the world. Strenuous economic conditions tightened travel budgets in the US especially, and made it difficult for people to visit. The typical influx of tourists coming from the United States, from Canada and France decreased sharply – and for Haiti’s tourism economy, the wind went out of the sails. In major tourist cities like Jacmel, Cap-Haïtien, Jérémie, and Les Cayes, as well as in Port-au-Prince, the repercussions were strongly felt: “Pa gen afè.” “There is no business.”

Despite all this, Haiti took on the optimistic character of its frequent sunshowers: through steady rain, the sun shines on, bold and bright.

As it kept putting efforts into pulling itself up, the country fell into a virtuous cycle. People picking up the pieces of their lives motivated others to do the same; one person walking through their neighborhood clearing up rubble prompted another to ask them if they could pitch in. A mother spending the night staying awake to watch over children was relieved by another come dawn. A shoulder to cry on over a lost one became a friend to lean on for long after the disaster.

There are still no words to accurately describe the strength, courage, and enthusiasm for life Haitians had to muster up in the weeks, months, and years of earthquake’s aftermath. If you visit now, you’ll see a million ways their faith in a better tomorrow has manifested itself. Taking each day as it came turned into an openness to adventure, and a new desire to travel within the island and see more of our beautiful country. Opening our homes to other Haitians was good practice for AirBnB! Wanting a better tomorrow for one another became putting our best foot forward for the world to see.

Almost ten years on from the earthquake, this tragic setback has turned into what it truly means to be Haitian: bravely marching into each day, arm-in-arm, making only the very best of who and where we are.

What Haiti needs now from the international community is tourism – if you’re looking to soak up some Caribbean sun, come visit Haiti, and see how much has changed.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published November 2018

Our recommendations

Getting around Haiti: How to Moto

October 12, 2018 by Editor

Moto driver smiling in Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Moto driver in Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Frank Fontain

Getting around Haiti: How to Moto

Need a taxi? You won’t find big yellow cabs in Haiti but there will be one – or seven – “motos” ready to help you get around. Here’s how to spot one, flag one down, negotiate a fare and travel like a pro.

What is a moto?

The “moto”, short for motorcycle, is the most convenient mode of public transportation, picking you up and dropping you off at your precise location. Motos are a great alternative to the other popular form of public transport you’ll find: the Tap-Tap (literally “Quick-quick”), the cheerfully-painted minibuses that serve as share taxis which follow a predetermined route.

If you think you need a Tap-Tap because a moto won’t be able to fit your luggage on it, think again. 50-gallon drums, livestock, shelving units, solar panels, a family of five, construction materials, and another moto, are just some of the things that may be transported on a moto. It’s unlikely you’ll carry more than any moto in Haiti can handle.

Moto taxis in traffic in Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Moto Taxis in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to spot a moto

How can you tell which motorcycles are moto taxis? The simple answer is: you can’t, at first. There isn’t anything obvious that indicates which motorcycles are on the street to work as taxis and which are being used for private transportation. However, there are subtle things you can look for so that you don’t have to go around waving at every motorcycle that goes by. Here is a list of things to look for:

Moto taxi drivers are male. There are a few female motorcyclists, but if you see one, she probably isn’t a taxi driver. If she is a moto taxi driver, she might be Haiti’s first.
Moto taxi drivers are looking for you. They are scanning the sides of the roads, looking for a passenger. Usually people that are not a taxi, just look straight ahead at the road.
Moto taxi drivers won’t be in a uniform. Uniforms are for school or work, and if the driver of a moto is wearing a uniform, you can bet he isn’t a taxi.
Moto taxi drivers wear shoes, not sandals. The good ones wear glasses and a hat too.
Moto taxi drivers won’t have a backpack, tools, or other items carried on the moto.
Moto taxi drivers will stop when you wave them down.

Moto driver crossing suspension bridge in Haiti — Moto driver on bridge
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

How to flag a moto and negotiate a fare

To flag a moto down you simply wave your hand and, if the driver is available to pick you up, he will pull over for you. Before you swing a leg onto the moto, it’s important to negotiate the fare for your journey so that there is no misunderstanding between you and the driver when you arrive at your destination.

Be sure to verbalize which currency you are negotiating in so that there isn’t a mix up between the Haitian gourdes and the Haitian dollar, or the Haitian dollar and the US dollar. It is always best to have the correct change, as the drivers often don’t have change, or at least they might try to say they don’t have change, in hopes of being able to keep yours.

Once you’ve agreed on a destination and a fare, you want to hold onto your money (don’t pay your driver until you have arrived) and hop on the moto.

Moto driver in Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Moto driver
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The right way to get on a moto

Make sure you stand on the left side of the moto and swing your right leg over. If you try to get on from the right side, you are likely to burn your leg on the muffler. That 3-inch diameter burn on your leg will scream “rookie” to the locals.

Be like the old pros and get on from the left side. There should be pegs by the back wheel for you to put your feet on and usually a small bar at the back of the seat for you to hold on to. Once you’re comfortable, the driver will depart, ready to take you wherever you need to go in Haiti.

It may sound strange compared to what you’re used to, but for Haitians the moto is a way of life. So wave one down, negotiate a price, hop on from the left side, and enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of the streets, with a little wind in your hair, until you’ve reached your target location. It’s the quickest, easiest, and best way of getting around Haiti.

Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published October 2018

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Haiti Up Close

Passion Fruit & Poisson Gros Sel: The Haitian Cuisine

Haiti has a bright and vivid culture, and there is no place where it is reflected more boldly than in Haitian cuisine.

Bring Haitian Flavor to Your Walls!

Where to find Haitian cuisine

Flavour staples and seasonal produce

Trade winds

Bring Haitian Flavor to Your Walls!

Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Is it really safe to travel to Haiti?

Is it safe to travel to Haiti?

a touch of haitian wisdom

How to stay safe

How to stay healthy

Should you hire a local guide?

a touch of haitian wisdom

Is there internet?

Are there hotels up to an American standard?

From Our Land to Your Home

What are the travel restrictions for visiting Haiti?

Why visit Haiti?

A Visual Guide to Vodou Symbols

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

10 Years after the Earthquake in Haiti: The Long Road Back to Growth

Almost ten years on, we take a look at how the nation is recovering, and what it needs now from the international community.

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

From Our Land to Your Home

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Our recommendations

Paradise for your inbox

Getting around Haiti: How to Moto

Need a taxi? You won’t find big yellow cabs in Haiti but there will be one – or seven – “motos” ready to help you get around. Here’s how to spot one, flag one down, negotiate a fare and travel like a pro.

From Our Land to Your Home

What is a moto?

How to spot a moto

How to flag a moto and negotiate a fare

The right way to get on a moto

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Explore more of Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Plan Your Trip

Destinations

Information

Company

Plan Your Trip

Destinations

Information

Company

Select Language

Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

a touch of
haitian wisdom

a touch of
haitian wisdom

A Visual Guide to
Vodou Symbols