Destinations

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

October 15, 2018 by Editor

Aerial view of the waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

A 40 minute drive out of the western city of Les Cayes, the waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June, but this is also when the road to get there is at its most – lets say adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon river that feeds Saut Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January – Haiti’s driest month- it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible – the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, full of exotic bird song blending in with the sound of the waterfall.

On the accessible side, there’s a cobblestone ledge to make it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim and is considered better even than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice cold, but on sunny days (practically all!) It’s worth it! A few hours is in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A climb up a side track leads to the top of the waterfall from where you have a wonderful view and access to some natural pools.

Les Cayes is one of the cities the most travellers don’t reach – Jacmel or Saint-Louis-du-Sud are closer to Port-au-Prince. If you manage to make it as far west as Les Cayes, make it a point to visit Saut Mathurine.

Waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine waterfall, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Getting there

Saut Mathurine is off the beaten path for most travellers – quite literally. The road is unpaved and you’ll need a 4×4 to get there, but it’s worth the bumpy ride. You can hire 4×4 vehicles in Les Cayes. If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well. If you enjoy driving off-road though, getting there is an absolute adventure.

Access to the waterfall is via a park entrance – a gap in the wall with a small office to the side. The entrance fee for travellers is 100 Haitian gourdes. Inside the walls, there’s much more to discover than the waterfall itself – you can walk along the riverside and around steps carved into or laid around the otherwise wild jungle. There is a boutique selling local crafts and a restaurant on site.

Turquoise pool at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

October 3, 2018 by Editor

Aerial photo of St Pierre Church, Petion-Ville, Haiti — St Pierre Church, Petion-Ville, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

Mature tropical trees throw shade across Place Saint-Pierre, where you can wander around stone paths and eat an ice-cream on metalwork benches made by the artisans of Croix-de-Bouquet.

Place Saint-Pierre is a large public square in the middle of Pétion-Ville. Flanked by the Lycée de Pétion-Ville, the Brothers of the Christian Instruction, Kinam Hotel, a police station, a city hall, and the church of Église de Saint-Pierre, the square dates back to the late 1800s. It’s no relic, though – Place Saint-Pierre is full of regular Haitians from Pétion-Ville and surrounding areas at work and play.

A popular meeting place, you’ll hear many Haitians say “I’ll meet you at Place Saint-Pierre, okay?” Mature tropical trees throw shade across most of the space, where you can wander around stone paths and have a seat on metalwork benches made by the artisans of Croix-de-Bouquet. You can buy ice-cold sodas, bottled water (and often ice cream) any time of day or evening from merchants who float around the square.

North of the square, you’ll find the most popular flower market of Pétion-Ville. From Monday to Sunday, from dusk to dawn, the air is full of the perfume of their trade. As the bouquets and wreaths travel from market to churches and businesses all over the heights, Place St. Pierre gets strewn with petals.

Flower market at Place St. Pierre, Pétion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

What else happens here?

During most of the year, the square’s most frequent visitors are students from the two nearest schools: Brothers of the Christian Instruction and the Lycée de Pétion-Ville. These students often meet at the square during recesses, or after school to play soccer, to debate class assignments, or just to escape from their demanding academic lives from time to time. Like Champ-de-Mars, it’s not uncommon to find debate teams near the entrance of the square, though the teams here are mostly young students.

Once a year, on the 29th of June, the patron saint of Saint-Pierre – or Saint Peter – is celebrated here. If you’ve never seen Caribbean christianity, you’re in for a shock: people come from all over Port-au-Prince and from cities across the country to celebrate St Peter over a nine-day “novena” – an ancient tradition of structured public and private prayer. It’s not a somber occasion, though – live bands, DJs, food stands, and activities for spring up in the days leading up to the 29th.

People hanging out in Place St. Pierre, Haiti — Place St. Pierre
Photo: Franck Fontain

History

In the Haiti of the 40s and 50s, places like Place Saint-Pierre were hubs for socializing. Haiti’s middle class was getting stronger and more affluent, and Sunday morning mass at the Saint-Pierre church was an opportunity to parade one’s sunday best. With neatly pressed hair and shiny little shoes, the children of Pétion-Ville played with their friends while parents talked politely under the strong Caribbean sun.

The rise of restaurants and businesses in Pétion-Ville, coupled with the growing number of people moving to the heights – Pèlerin, Laboule, Thomassin – turned Place Saint-Pierre into a point of reference. It has been renovated many times to keep it up to date, most recently in 2012.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

August 16, 2018 by Editor

New forest growth in Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

Fresh air, deep tree cover and stunning views make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife and nature.

A vast expanse of tropical and subtropical coniferous forests straddling the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic, the Forêt de Pins is located in the south-east corner of Haiti, on the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range.

Fresh air, deep tree cover and hiking opportunities make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife, birdlife and nature. The forest also contains Haiti’s highest mountain, Pic La Selle, which reaches 8773 feet. Pic La Selle offers spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola and climbing the peak, including travel from Port-au-Prince, can easily be done in one weekend.

Forêt de Pins is currently in a process of recovery, after surviving a trend of deforestation that began in the 1930s and peaked in the 1960s. Although local communities have used forest products including timber and charcoal for fuel, the most significant damage was done by large corporations with ties to the government of that time, who sold forest products to American companies that made, of all things, aeronautical resin oil.

Laws are now in place to protect the forest and in 2007 the first reforestation projects began, with 1500 trees planted by locals. With more locals using propane tanks for fuel instead of traditional forest fuels, Forêt de Pins is proving to be an example of positive cooperation between a local government and national interests. This cooperation has been helped by the birth of a conservation network called Réseau pour la Sauvegarde de la Forêt des Pins, or RSFP. RSFP has partnered with Cesal, an international humanitarian aid organization, to fund train-the-trainer education programs in ten schools surrounding the forest. Through this initiative, teachers are able to spread knowledge about how to take care of the forest with low-impact livelihoods.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Forêt de Pins isn’t “out of the woods” yet. Ecotourism is vital for ensuring local Haitians have access to sustainable livelihoods. This is where you come in. Guided hikes and overnight adventures in Forêt de Pins are a great way to encourage wildlife conservation and a great way to see Haiti.

Sunset next to a hotel in the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti — House in Foret des Pins, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to stay

Deep within the forest, there are several huts managed by the Haitian Ministry of Agriculture (MARNDR) which you can stay in through prior arrangement. It’s also possible to pitch your own tent, or find accommodation nearby in the welcoming township of Fonds-Verrettes.

Daisies growing in a field in the Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Flowers, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Verdy Verna

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Most adventures to Forêt de Pins start in Port-au-Prince. If you’re travelling by car, the journey will take you around 4 hours including Friday afternoon traffic. Because the roads are poor in places, you’ll need a 4×4. You can rent one in Port-au-Prince for around US$350 (for up to eight people over two days including full insurance). If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well.

Head out of Port-au-Prince via Croix des Bouquets and continue east on Route Nationale 8 toward the Malpasse/Jimani border crossing. Just after Fonds Parisien, turn right. From here the road is unpaved and rough in places but offers breathtaking views of the landscape, including over the Dominican Republic.

Follow the road into the foothills until you get to the small market town that bears the same name as the forest. In the marketplace, you’ll find a right turn which leads to Gros Cheval – you might need to ask one of the Moto taxi drivers for directions. Once you reach the marketplace in Gros Cheval, look for the green and white health centre building.

At the health centre in Gros Cheval travellers can find basic accommodation for around 500 gourdes per person, meals for around 400 per person, and guides. Guide fees are negotiated on arrival, but you can expect to pay about US$15-$25 per person in your group. Gross Cheval is the recommended departure point for adventurers wishing to climb Pic la Selle.

Daytime forest path in Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over both Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018

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Top things to see in Haiti

Explore the Waterfall and Grottoes of Bassin Zim

July 26, 2018 by Editor

People swimming beneath a waterfall in Bassin Zim, Haiti — People swimming in Bassin Zim
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore the Waterfall and Glittering Grottoes of Bassin Zim

A few miles north of Hinche, Bassin Zim is a spectacular natural landmark with a waterfall, a chain of turquoise-hued pools and a network of glittering underground grottoes. There’s rumours of buried treasure, but the real treasure is out in the open.

Four people and a motorbike at the shore of Bassin Zim, Haiti — Bassin Zim
Photo: Anton Lau

The magnificent waterfall that is the centrepiece of Bassin Zim isn’t the type that crashes vertically down into the water below – instead, it cascades down the side of the mountain and fans out into a wide basin, creating one of the prettiest sights on the island.

A path winds from the basins all the way up to the top of the waterfall. You can reach the top if you can find your way, and if you’re lucky you might get to watch some experienced Haitians freediving into the pool below. We recommend against travellers trying it though – it’s more dangerous than it looks, and with so many other adventures to be had, why take the risk?

Many believe that after death, “good” or “pure” souls head to Bassin Zim to receive their blessings. There are also those who claim that the Taíno Amerindians who lived on the island before colonization have hidden a bountiful treasure somewhere in the basins or the caves below.

Bassin Zim, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Buried Treasure

Underneath Bassin Zim, there are high-ceilinged grottos that are arguably even lovelier than the basins or the waterfall. With ankle-deep water studded with smooth rocks and stalagmites, the fifty-foot high walls are painted vivid green with moss, and the rivulets of water running down them reflect the outside light, glittering in the cool dark. Stalactites hang from the ceilings, and strange stone shapes mushroom from twists in the folds of rock. For keen photographers, these caverns will provide some striking shots.

The grottos beneath Bassin Zim are just the start – this landscape is full of them, and exploring the network with the help of a friendly guide is a great way to give back as part of trip to Haiti. A hike through nature is low-impact travel for you and a rewarding way for locals to make ends meet. Guides will help you to avoid the menace lurking in some of these caves: though they’re as unlikely to harbour pirates as they are to hide treasure, they have been known to harbour wasps.

Getting to Bassin Zim

From Port-au-Prince:
To get to Bassin Zim from Port-au-Prince, drive towards Hinche and head east out of town on the 308, crossing over the Samana river. About a mile after the river crossing, take the road on your left and follow it north as it climbs through a dry, pastoral landscape, passing several churches on the way.

The lands of what we can call “Midwestern Haiti” are often parched in the dry seasons and swamped under the deluges of the wet – it’s a changeable landscape where the power of nature is felt strongly.

As you near Bassin Zim, the dry road gets rougher, and the grass greener. There’s no turn off to watch for – the road makes a few sharp turns to meet up with the Samana again and ends at Bassin Zim itself.

Entrance fees
Admission is 250 HTG (less than 3 USD) for tourists and 50 HTG for locals.

A note on guides:
Getting to parts of Bassin Zim can be tough, and we recommend hiring a local guide – especially if you plan on jumping in, as it’s notoriously difficult to get down again without a guide.

When it comes to finding a guide, don’t worry – they’ll find you! In fact, if you don’t pick a guide and insist that the other hopeful candidates leave you alone, you can end up in the awkward situation of having several guides accompany you, all expecting to be paid at the end. Choose one (or more) guide, and insist that the rest leave you to it.

Make sure you negotiate a price with your guide before you start – 250 to 500 HTG is a reasonable price. Bring the right bills with you.

Remember, never underestimate the power of the water or the risks associated. If you are not joining a tour, inform your hotel or accommodation owner where you are going and be sure to check the conditions before you trek in. Happy travels!

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018

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The Peabody House – A Gingerbread Palace

July 25, 2018 by admin

Aerial photo of the historic gingerbread building Peabody House in Pacot, Haiti — Peabody House in Pacot, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

The Peabody House – A Gingerbread Palace

Constructed at the turn of the century, the delightful Peabody House is Haiti’s most famous example of a celebrated architectural form unique to the Caribbean.

Called ‘Gingerbread Houses,’ the high turrets, wraparound balconies, window peaks and lace-like lattice work make these tropical mansions into works of art.

Take a closer look

Situated in the main street of Pacot in the outskirts of Port-au-Prince, the Peabody House is almost completely obscured from the road. The house is set well into its block on Rue Garoute and surrounded by enough tropical palms that you wouldn’t be able to see it unless you knew what to look for.

Once inside the gate, you’ll notice a dozen large orb lamps hanging from wraparound porches on both levels. They punctuate the high French doors and draw the gaze to a focal point in what could otherwise be an overwhelming first impression. Large green palms rise to frame the wonderful architecture and add a lush air of luxury. Every part of the design has been carefully thought-through, and there’s no substitute for seeing it up close.

Walking up the cobblestone driveway towards the white three-story mansion, Peabody House rises up like a lavish palace. The pastel color scheme and cantilevered balconies might give you the sense that it’s more decorative than practical, but once you step onto the expansive porch you get a sense of the genius behind the design.

gothic victorian gingerbread mansion with orange roof — The Peabody House in Pacot, Port-au-Prince
Photo: World Monuments Fund

Comfort is key

The gingerbread design maximises air and light. Sunshine spills into the open-plan rooms, and cool air circulates throughout. Since Haiti is hot most of the year, the Peabody House, like all gingerbread houses built around Port-au-Prince, has high ceilings, windows and doors. Carved holes notched into the top of each door allow even more air to flow through.

Peabody House is without a doubt one of architect Leon Mathon’s most masterful gingerbread designs in all of Haiti. He built it in 1912 for Gustav Keitel. Originally named “Bismarchshock,” it was painstakingly restored in the 60s by American designer-decorator, Lawrence Peabody, and promptly renamed in gratitude.

You might say that gingerbreads are the original open-concept homes. On each of the house’s three levels, interior rooms open onto multiple wide, covered balconies. The high ceilings and broad, open windows allows breezes to blow freely through the entire house.

Wide shutters are thrown open onto views of the leafy green garden and a generously-sized swimming pool. It was inside a house just like this that Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister Pauline lived during her residence in Cap-Haïtien.

A flourishing national architectural style

Gingerbreads have been called “Haiti’s endangered species” and stalking the streets of Pacot in hope of a glimpse is a worthy way to spend an afternoon.

Hundreds of gingerbread mansions like Peabody House were built in Port-au-Prince, but no two are alike. One of the easiest ways you can visit these wonders is by heading to Pacot. It’s a largely residential neighborhood in Port-au-Prince, where most of the former gingerbread mansions have been converted into hotels like the Oloffson, art galleries such as El Saeih, and restaurants – including the fittingly-named Gingerbread.

What each house has in common is imaginative and delicate designs carved out of wood. Each mansion reflects the individuality of its owner and, importantly, it reflects the spirit of the day. In post-1804 independence Haiti, architecture was used to differentiate the island identity from that of France. They adapted different styles and a keen eye can distinguish subsets of architectural formalities that can be found from Jeremie to Jacmel to Cap-Haïtien. Gingerbread houses remain uniquely Haitian.

Light, air and love

Although they top the list of Haiti’s most recognised cultural heritage, the survival of gingerbread houses is under threat. Regular and expensive maintenance – everything from fixing roof lattices to fighting termites – is required to keep historic mansions like the Peabody House at their best, and some have sadly fallen into disrepair. But thanks to the constant vigilance of the Denis family, the Peabody House is in remarkable condition. Termites are kept at bay and you’ll often see fresh white paint on the eaves, turrets and lacework balconies.

The Peabody Mansion is indeed thriving even 100 years after its construction. If you look closely, you’ll see the brass plaque on the front of the house that pays tribute to German emigre to Haiti, Gustav Kietel, and the spirit of the day on which this fabulous dream was constructed. The plaque sums up what Gingerbread Houses were made for – “Licht, luft, liebe” (“light, air, love”).

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published July 2018

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Jacmel City Guide

July 4, 2018 by Editor

Ocean boardwalk in Jacmel — Boardwalk at Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Whether you’re looking for adventure, nature, fast festival rhythms, rejuvenation on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel will slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

old colonial houses in coastal city — City center of Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Switch off in the City of Light

Once dubbed the “City of Light,” the seaside city of Jacmel was the first place in the Caribbean to get electricity back in the nineteenth century. These days, there’s something else unusual about Jacmel’s power use – it’s limited, meaning if you Airbnb here, you better be prepared with backup batteries for the daily ritual of switching off from the grid.

For many Americans power outages are rare, unpredictable, inconvenient and even spooky. They’re when you realise you forgot to put fresh batteries in your flashlights, and/or leave your flashlights where you can find them in the dark. For the residents of Jacmel, though, it’s part of the daily rhythm, and it doesn’t seem to phase the travellers who love coming back to Jacmel every year. Jacmel is famous for festivals, and in-between it’s a magical destination, well-equipped to help you switch-off and hit reset.

Stairs with a mosaic of words in Jacmel, Haiti — Stairs with mosaik art in Jacmel
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Art & Culture

Known as the culture capital of Haiti, Jacmel is a hub for art, folklore, foodies, festivals and nightlife. Colorful paper-mache creations, often seen during Jacmel’s annual carnival, can be found and bought all year round. Many of the masks and paintings are reflective of Haiti’s deeply unique religion – the potent symbology of Haitian Vodou infuses the city streets.

Jacmel is a compact city, and easy to explore on foot. For a closer look, you can ask local guides Experience Jacmel to take you to visit a Vodou “peristyle” or help you make your own carnival mask.

A tourist stands on a stone bridge across rapids at Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti — Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Are you more of an outdoorsy-type? Jacmel offers excellent proximity to many of Haiti’s most exciting al-fresco adventures. Reconnect with nature at La Vallée, Bassin Bleu, Marigot or Fort Ogè in Cap Rouge – all within a short drive or a sturdy hike.

The tropical sun will test your mettle, but for the brave and well-prepared there are caves waiting to be discovered, waterfalls waiting to be jumped off of and swam under, steep and shady jungle paths for you to leave footprints on, and crisp mountain air to reset your cortisol levels. You’ll find adventure itineraries suited to your level from novice hiker to hardened overland survivor.

people swimming by beach with trees — La Saline Beach in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Crazy-good beaches

If you’d rather hit the snooze button than the gym, no sweat! Beach bums can relax at one of Jacmel’s several stunning strips of paradisian sand, including Cyvadier, Raymond les Bains, L’Amitie and Kabic. Soak up the sun, catch some waves, sip on a coconut (would you like that with rum?), and lick your fingers after a plate of freshly caught and barbecued seafood.

Whether you’re hoping to realign your chakras or just happy to find inner peace in a succession of ice-cold rum cocktails, you’ll find bliss on the beaches of Jacmel.

The colorful exterior of Cafe Koze in Jacmel, Haiti — Cafe Koze in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The food culture in Jacmel is thriving, and published guides struggle to keep up with the pace of new hotels, bars and restaurants springing up all of the place.

Take to the mosaic boardwalk as you trace the coastline, by day a popular place for active types out jogging, and by night full of eclectically-clothed hipster students. Venture just a couple of streets inland from the boardwalk and you’ll find a mix of traditional and boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries, with a few souvenir shops thrown into the mix.

Where to eat

If you’ve just arrived, settle in at the chilled-out Cafe Koze, where you can people-watch over their mouth-watering homemade rum-and-raisin ice-cream.

Hotel Florita, once the mansion of a coffee magnate, will appeal to fans of Graham Greene. Here you can sit in the sultry semi-open courtyard (the UNESCO-listed hotel has no air conditioners), and sip a traditional Haitian filter coffee – exceedingly sweet and rich, and every bit as addictive as Vietnamese coffee. The restaurant serves excellent Haitian food palatable for cautious Americans and Europeans, but be warned: waiting times can exceed an hour. You won’t mind though, because they also make delectable rum sours, and the first is on the house!

If what you’re after is exotic food and exquisite beachfront views, head to Hotel Cyvadier Plage. Their shrimp and chicken dishes are crowd pleasers, but their specialty is in brightly constructed plates based on seasonal catch. In fact, if you’re breakfasting in the courtyard (and know a little French), you’re so close to the lapping shore that you can chat with fisherman as they tie up their boats to deliver the catch of the day.

Where to drink

Start with La Taverne or Belle Epoque Barak. La Taverne is where you’ll find more rum sours, and occasionally salsa performances. Belle Epoque is where expats go to stay up late listening to hip hop and house. They also do pretty good wings – not a bad way to line your stomach before a long rum-fuelled night of dancing.

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti — Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dance to your own beat

Jacmel is one of the friendliest and most tranquil cities in Haiti, but if you want to pack the most into a short break here, the best way to plug yourself into the pulse that feeds the city is to book in advance to stay during one of the festival weekends. Renowned DJs and artists will bring together hundreds, sometimes thousands of people, from all walks of life, to sing, dance, and celebrate. Whether your flavour of choice is rara or bachata, compa or salsa, house or tango, ask around on a holiday weekend, and you will find your party.

There’s too many festivals to list them all here, but briefly: Independence Day and New Years Day share January 1, and Carnival (think an Afro-Caribbean Mardi Gras) is held in the lead up to Shrove Tuesday. There’s also festivals that celebrate storytelling, rum, and the identity-affirming Rara.

Who should go?

Jacmel holds something for everyone. Whether you are looking for new adventure, to reconnect nature, to let your hair down surrounded by the pounding festival rhythms, or to rejuvenate on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel has something to slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

One last thing before you head back up over the mountains: buy yourself a t-shirt that reads “Jacmel Mwen Fou Pou Ou” (Kreyol for “Jacmel, I’m Crazy For You”) and become part of the unofficial Jacmel fan club. Welcome to the gang.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018.

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Destinations

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

From Our Land to Your Home

Getting there

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Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

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Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

Mature tropical trees throw shade across Place Saint-Pierre, where you can wander around stone paths and eat an ice-cream on metalwork benches made by the artisans of Croix-de-Bouquet.

From Our Land to Your Home

What else happens here?

History

Find Place Saint Pierre

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Go on a self-guided tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

Our recommendations

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Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

Fresh air, deep tree cover and stunning views make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife and nature.

a touch of haitian wisdom

Where to stay

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

start your day the Haitian way

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

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Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

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Explore the Waterfall and Glittering Grottoes of Bassin Zim

Buried Treasure

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

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The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

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The Peabody House – A Gingerbread Palace

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Take a closer look

Comfort is key

a touch of haitian wisdom

A flourishing national architectural style

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Light, air and love

Find The Peabody House

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Explore Haiti’s history and heritage

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CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Switch off in the City of Light

Art & Culture

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Crazy-good beaches

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

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Where to drink

Dance to your own beat

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a touch of haitian wisdom

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Go on a self-guided
tour of Haiti’s Gingerbread houses

a touch of
haitian wisdom

start your day
the Haitian way

a touch of
haitian wisdom

a touch of
haitian wisdom