Destinations

Soak up Spectacular Views from the Heights of Boutillier

October 16, 2018 by Editor

People eating lunch at L’Observatoire restaurant, Boutillier, with Port-au-Prince and the Caribbean sea in the background — L’Observatoire at Boutillier
Photo: Anton Lau

Soak up Spectacular Views from the Heights of Boutillier

Spectacular Views

Situated less than an hour from downtown Port-au-Prince, on the uppermost reaches of the ranges beyond Petion-Ville, amid cool mountain glades and forests of palms and towering native conifers, Boutillier is one of Port-au-Prince’s premier tourist attractions with spectacular views over the city, day or night.

The heights of Boutillier are home to roadside booths where artists sell their art as souvenirs, similar to the street-side craft markets in Place St. Pierre, Champs de Mars or Grand Rue, but the place that most travellers go to enjoy the view is the restaurant L’Observatoire.

L’Observatoire

The terrace of L’Observatoire boasts a phenomenal panoramic view of Petion-Ville and Port-au-Prince – taking in rolling green hills, the entire capital city, the turquoise expanse of bay Port-au-Prince, and the mountain ranges on the opposite shore.

Run by two sisters, L’Observatoire offers decent Haitian fare with some standouts: the best things on the menu are the freshly-pressed juices, traditional coffee, lobster burgers, and Pain Patate – a traditional Haitian dessert made from sweet potatoes and flavoured with rum-drenched raisins. Speaking of rum, the bar does excellent cocktails, and you probably won’t need more than one! L’Observatoire is also one of the few places in Port-au-Prince you can comfortably order vegetarian meals right off the menu.

Expect to pay New York prices here – you’re paying for the view and it’s the best in the city. Remember, though, that you’re on island time – you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy the view while you wait for you food, so grab a table – and a cocktail – and settle in to wait.

Sunset over Boutilliers, Haiti — View from Boutilliers
Photo: Franck Fontain

Romantic Getaway

As one of the most romantic spots in the city, you might expect L’Observatoire to have an extensive wine list – don’t. There’s a house white and a house rose, and last time I checked no red at all – but you can get red wine anywhere – how many places can you order a cocktail made with locally-distilled rum and sip it while leaning against a railing and looking over what feels like half the Caribbean?

The night-time view up here is even better than the sunset: the dark mountains plunge down onto the bay, and city lights cascade down their sides, pulling you towards the heart of the city. Just remember to bring a sweater or a blanket! It’s super romantic to have to lend or borrow a jacket to/from your date but keep the cool mountain air in mind so you don’t have to call off your night just as the view really gets magical.

Night view over the city of Port-au-Prince from from Boutilliers, Haiti — Nighttime view from Boutilliers, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

When to go

New Years
A spectacular choice for new years’ celebrations. The young and old, tourists, expats and locals, all come here to celebrate new beginnings at the top of the world. An incredible place to count down to midnight, surrounded by friends when the city lights up in fireworks.

When you have a date
Nothing says romantic evening like the view Boutilier.

Getting there

If you are driving up from Pétion-Ville, go up Kenscoff road until you reach the fork of Laboule 12. From there, the drive to Boutilier is one of the most scenic urban stretches Haiti has to offer. Trees flank the road, and most of the homes are gated estates, with a few neighborhood boutiques here and there.

After a while, the road is unpaved and the homes give way to green rolling hills, from which you have a spectacular vantage point on the hills of Laboule and Pelerin. It turns back to asphalt after a few minutes, and again, winds between homes, small boutiques, and stretches of lush mixes of forest and farmland.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

Find Boutillier

External Links

Find out more about Boutillier on Tripadvisor

Tripadvisor

L’Observatoire’s Facebook page

FACEBOOK

Looking for some cool things to do?

Hike to Historic Fort Jacques

October 16, 2018 by Editor

view of an old fortress on a mountain top surrounded by pine trees — View of Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Hike to historic Fort Jacques

Tucked away high in the dense mountains of Haiti is Fort Jacques – one of the country’s oldest and best preserved forts.

Early mornings at Fort Jacques are a peaceful escape from the busy island of Haiti, and are an easy way to get out of the city without having to head to the provinces. While the forest is still waking up, you’ll be surrounded by the songs of exotic birds – many endemic to the island – as well as the rustling and conversation of merchants setting up shop. At the end of your hike, sitting at a picnic table in the middle of the mountain wilderness, you’ll see why a trip to Fort Jacques – one of the cheapest things to do in Haiti – is also one of the best.

Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Defending Haiti’s Independence

After Haiti gained its independence in 1804, most people were busy celebrating. Their newfound freedom from colonial rule was a powerful cultural moment for Haitians in the same way that independence from British rule was for Americans, and continues to be just as important to this day.

With celebrations still underway, Alexandre Pétion – the Division General of the Haitian military – foresaw that the colonizers might not let Haitians enjoy their freedom for too long. As a way to prevent the French returning to seize control of the island again, Pétion oversaw the construction of two forts: Fort Alexandre and Fort Jacques.

While Fort Alexandre was named for Pétion himself, Fort Jacques takes its name from Jean-Jacques Dessalines, who was then the emperor of Haiti. Construction work was complete within a year; Pétion wasted no time making sure that Haiti was ready to fend off would-be conquerors.

The location of Fort Jacques was not left to chance. From the battlements, one can look out over the entire bay of Port-au-Prince, giving defenders advanced warning of any naval attacks. Today, centuries after construction, Fort Jacques stands as a point of reference for the locals and tourists who venture into these parts of the mountain. The fort still houses some of the cannons that were designated to defend Haiti’s independence.

These days, the fortress is much more than a monument to more dangerous times, and a visit to Fort-Jacques offers an escape to peaceful green spaces. The path that leads up to the fort is flanked by the soccer field of a nearby school to the left, and on the right, trees so dense that it’s hard to see through them.

Exterior of Fort Jacques, Haiti — Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

The best way to enjoy what Fort Jacques has to offer is to wake up a little earlier than usual one morning, lace your running or hiking shoes up, pack a bite to eat for breakfast, and drive up to the Fermathe church, or take a bus that will drop you there. If you are in Pétion-Ville, Fermathe is only a thirty- or forty-minute car ride away. Don’t forget to pack a sweater!

From Fermathe, the challenge – and real fun, begins. The road is paved, making the walk up to the fort an enjoyable hike. In the morning, the sun’s rays are still soft, and the hike is pleasant. You can take your time and sample some of the market goods on the way to the fort.

The road is lined with merchants selling street food, whose kitchens are either housed in a little strip of small houses, or, as you get closer to the fort’s entrance, out in the open. If something a little fancier is what you crave, stop in at Fort Jacques Bakery. Past the liquor and snack sellers, a cobblestone path continues to the fort, and the food traders give way to local artisans often come to show off their arts and crafts.

Behind the fort, the forest is decked in picnic tables shaded by tall trees. Because this is all open to the public, Fort Jacques is a popular destination among local young adults and teenagers as well as tourists: it is an open space, with seating available, out in the middle of nature. During the summer and winter breaks, it’s common to find young adults sitting at the tables, listening to music together and enjoying a good time.

Two people seen through a dark tunnel at Fort Jacques, Haiti — Fort Jacques, Kenscoff
Photo: Franck Fontain

Get the most out of your visit

Because there’s no designated tour guide team to show you around Fort Jacques, you’ll run into would-be guides who will hustle (sometimes aggressively) for the chance to show you around – for a foreigner price. For some visitors, this can be a challenging situation to navigate.

You’ll be more comfortable if you head to Fort Jacques with an experienced local from the start. This way, the guided tour isn’t as expensive, and there is a better chance of grasping the tour guide’s explanation of what’s going on.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

Find Fort Jacques

External Links

Read reviews of Fort Jacques on Trip Advisor

Tripadvisor

Explore more of Haiti’s history

Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

October 3, 2018 by Editor

Aerial photo of St Pierre Church, Petion-Ville, Haiti — St Pierre Church, Petion-Ville, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

Mature tropical trees throw shade across Place Saint-Pierre, where you can wander around stone paths and eat an ice-cream on metalwork benches made by the artisans of Croix-de-Bouquet.

Place Saint-Pierre is a large public square in the middle of Pétion-Ville. Flanked by the Lycée de Pétion-Ville, the Brothers of the Christian Instruction, Kinam Hotel, a police station, a city hall, and the church of Église de Saint-Pierre, the square dates back to the late 1800s. It’s no relic, though – Place Saint-Pierre is full of regular Haitians from Pétion-Ville and surrounding areas at work and play.

A popular meeting place, you’ll hear many Haitians say “I’ll meet you at Place Saint-Pierre, okay?” Mature tropical trees throw shade across most of the space, where you can wander around stone paths and have a seat on metalwork benches made by the artisans of Croix-de-Bouquet. You can buy ice-cold sodas, bottled water (and often ice cream) any time of day or evening from merchants who float around the square.

North of the square, you’ll find the most popular flower market of Pétion-Ville. From Monday to Sunday, from dusk to dawn, the air is full of the perfume of their trade. As the bouquets and wreaths travel from market to churches and businesses all over the heights, Place St. Pierre gets strewn with petals.

Flower market at Place St. Pierre, Pétion-Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

What else happens here?

During most of the year, the square’s most frequent visitors are students from the two nearest schools: Brothers of the Christian Instruction and the Lycée de Pétion-Ville. These students often meet at the square during recesses, or after school to play soccer, to debate class assignments, or just to escape from their demanding academic lives from time to time. Like Champ-de-Mars, it’s not uncommon to find debate teams near the entrance of the square, though the teams here are mostly young students.

Once a year, on the 29th of June, the patron saint of Saint-Pierre – or Saint Peter – is celebrated here. If you’ve never seen Caribbean christianity, you’re in for a shock: people come from all over Port-au-Prince and from cities across the country to celebrate St Peter over a nine-day “novena” – an ancient tradition of structured public and private prayer. It’s not a somber occasion, though – live bands, DJs, food stands, and activities for spring up in the days leading up to the 29th.

People hanging out in Place St. Pierre, Haiti — Place St. Pierre
Photo: Franck Fontain

History

In the Haiti of the 40s and 50s, places like Place Saint-Pierre were hubs for socializing. Haiti’s middle class was getting stronger and more affluent, and Sunday morning mass at the Saint-Pierre church was an opportunity to parade one’s sunday best. With neatly pressed hair and shiny little shoes, the children of Pétion-Ville played with their friends while parents talked politely under the strong Caribbean sun.

The rise of restaurants and businesses in Pétion-Ville, coupled with the growing number of people moving to the heights – Pèlerin, Laboule, Thomassin – turned Place Saint-Pierre into a point of reference. It has been renovated many times to keep it up to date, most recently in 2012.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

Find Place Saint Pierre

External Links

Read reviews of Place Saint-Pierre on Trip Advisor

Tripadvisor

Our recommendations

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

August 16, 2018 by Editor

New forest growth in Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

Fresh air, deep tree cover and stunning views make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife and nature.

A vast expanse of tropical and subtropical coniferous forests straddling the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic, the Forêt de Pins is located in the south-east corner of Haiti, on the Chaîne de la Selle mountain range.

Fresh air, deep tree cover and hiking opportunities make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife, birdlife and nature. The forest also contains Haiti’s highest mountain, Pic La Selle, which reaches 8773 feet. Pic La Selle offers spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola and climbing the peak, including travel from Port-au-Prince, can easily be done in one weekend.

Forêt de Pins is currently in a process of recovery, after surviving a trend of deforestation that began in the 1930s and peaked in the 1960s. Although local communities have used forest products including timber and charcoal for fuel, the most significant damage was done by large corporations with ties to the government of that time, who sold forest products to American companies that made, of all things, aeronautical resin oil.

Laws are now in place to protect the forest and in 2007 the first reforestation projects began, with 1500 trees planted by locals. With more locals using propane tanks for fuel instead of traditional forest fuels, Forêt de Pins is proving to be an example of positive cooperation between a local government and national interests. This cooperation has been helped by the birth of a conservation network called Réseau pour la Sauvegarde de la Forêt des Pins, or RSFP. RSFP has partnered with Cesal, an international humanitarian aid organization, to fund train-the-trainer education programs in ten schools surrounding the forest. Through this initiative, teachers are able to spread knowledge about how to take care of the forest with low-impact livelihoods.

Sunset through the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Sunset, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Forêt de Pins isn’t “out of the woods” yet. Ecotourism is vital for ensuring local Haitians have access to sustainable livelihoods. This is where you come in. Guided hikes and overnight adventures in Forêt de Pins are a great way to encourage wildlife conservation and a great way to see Haiti.

Sunset next to a hotel in the forest of Forêt des Pins, Haiti — House in Foret des Pins, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

Where to stay

Deep within the forest, there are several huts managed by the Haitian Ministry of Agriculture (MARNDR) which you can stay in through prior arrangement. It’s also possible to pitch your own tent, or find accommodation nearby in the welcoming township of Fonds-Verrettes.

Daisies growing in a field in the Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Flowers, Forêt des Pins
Photo: Verdy Verna

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

Most adventures to Forêt de Pins start in Port-au-Prince. If you’re travelling by car, the journey will take you around 4 hours including Friday afternoon traffic. Because the roads are poor in places, you’ll need a 4×4. You can rent one in Port-au-Prince for around US$350 (for up to eight people over two days including full insurance). If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well.

Head out of Port-au-Prince via Croix des Bouquets and continue east on Route Nationale 8 toward the Malpasse/Jimani border crossing. Just after Fonds Parisien, turn right. From here the road is unpaved and rough in places but offers breathtaking views of the landscape, including over the Dominican Republic.

Follow the road into the foothills until you get to the small market town that bears the same name as the forest. In the marketplace, you’ll find a right turn which leads to Gros Cheval – you might need to ask one of the Moto taxi drivers for directions. Once you reach the marketplace in Gros Cheval, look for the green and white health centre building.

At the health centre in Gros Cheval travellers can find basic accommodation for around 500 gourdes per person, meals for around 400 per person, and guides. Guide fees are negotiated on arrival, but you can expect to pay about US$15-$25 per person in your group. Gross Cheval is the recommended departure point for adventurers wishing to climb Pic la Selle.

Daytime forest path in Forêt des Pins, Haiti — Forêt des Pins
Photo: Anton Lau

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over both Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published August 2018

Find Forêt des Pins

External Links

Find out more about the forest on Facebook

Facebook

Top things to see in Haiti

The Peabody House – A Gingerbread Palace

July 25, 2018 by admin

Aerial photo of the historic gingerbread building Peabody House in Pacot, Haiti — Peabody House in Pacot, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

The Peabody House – A Gingerbread Palace

Constructed at the turn of the century, the delightful Peabody House is Haiti’s most famous example of a celebrated architectural form unique to the Caribbean.

Called ‘Gingerbread Houses,’ the high turrets, wraparound balconies, window peaks and lace-like lattice work make these tropical mansions into works of art.

Take a closer look

Situated in the main street of Pacot in the outskirts of Port-au-Prince, the Peabody House is almost completely obscured from the road. The house is set well into its block on Rue Garoute and surrounded by enough tropical palms that you wouldn’t be able to see it unless you knew what to look for.

Once inside the gate, you’ll notice a dozen large orb lamps hanging from wraparound porches on both levels. They punctuate the high French doors and draw the gaze to a focal point in what could otherwise be an overwhelming first impression. Large green palms rise to frame the wonderful architecture and add a lush air of luxury. Every part of the design has been carefully thought-through, and there’s no substitute for seeing it up close.

Walking up the cobblestone driveway towards the white three-story mansion, Peabody House rises up like a lavish palace. The pastel color scheme and cantilevered balconies might give you the sense that it’s more decorative than practical, but once you step onto the expansive porch you get a sense of the genius behind the design.

gothic victorian gingerbread mansion with orange roof — The Peabody House in Pacot, Port-au-Prince
Photo: World Monuments Fund

Comfort is key

The gingerbread design maximises air and light. Sunshine spills into the open-plan rooms, and cool air circulates throughout. Since Haiti is hot most of the year, the Peabody House, like all gingerbread houses built around Port-au-Prince, has high ceilings, windows and doors. Carved holes notched into the top of each door allow even more air to flow through.

Peabody House is without a doubt one of architect Leon Mathon’s most masterful gingerbread designs in all of Haiti. He built it in 1912 for Gustav Keitel. Originally named “Bismarchshock,” it was painstakingly restored in the 60s by American designer-decorator, Lawrence Peabody, and promptly renamed in gratitude.

You might say that gingerbreads are the original open-concept homes. On each of the house’s three levels, interior rooms open onto multiple wide, covered balconies. The high ceilings and broad, open windows allows breezes to blow freely through the entire house.

Wide shutters are thrown open onto views of the leafy green garden and a generously-sized swimming pool. It was inside a house just like this that Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister Pauline lived during her residence in Cap-Haïtien.

A flourishing national architectural style

Gingerbreads have been called “Haiti’s endangered species” and stalking the streets of Pacot in hope of a glimpse is a worthy way to spend an afternoon.

Hundreds of gingerbread mansions like Peabody House were built in Port-au-Prince, but no two are alike. One of the easiest ways you can visit these wonders is by heading to Pacot. It’s a largely residential neighborhood in Port-au-Prince, where most of the former gingerbread mansions have been converted into hotels like the Oloffson, art galleries such as El Saeih, and restaurants – including the fittingly-named Gingerbread.

What each house has in common is imaginative and delicate designs carved out of wood. Each mansion reflects the individuality of its owner and, importantly, it reflects the spirit of the day. In post-1804 independence Haiti, architecture was used to differentiate the island identity from that of France. They adapted different styles and a keen eye can distinguish subsets of architectural formalities that can be found from Jeremie to Jacmel to Cap-Haïtien. Gingerbread houses remain uniquely Haitian.

Light, air and love

Although they top the list of Haiti’s most recognised cultural heritage, the survival of gingerbread houses is under threat. Regular and expensive maintenance – everything from fixing roof lattices to fighting termites – is required to keep historic mansions like the Peabody House at their best, and some have sadly fallen into disrepair. But thanks to the constant vigilance of the Denis family, the Peabody House is in remarkable condition. Termites are kept at bay and you’ll often see fresh white paint on the eaves, turrets and lacework balconies.

The Peabody Mansion is indeed thriving even 100 years after its construction. If you look closely, you’ll see the brass plaque on the front of the house that pays tribute to German emigre to Haiti, Gustav Kietel, and the spirit of the day on which this fabulous dream was constructed. The plaque sums up what Gingerbread Houses were made for – “Licht, luft, liebe” (“light, air, love”).

Written by Emily Bauman.

Published July 2018

Find The Peabody House

Explore Haiti’s history and heritage

Jacmel City Guide

July 4, 2018 by Editor

Ocean boardwalk in Jacmel — Boardwalk at Lakou New York, Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Whether you’re looking for adventure, nature, fast festival rhythms, rejuvenation on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel will slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

old colonial houses in coastal city — City center of Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Switch off in the City of Light

Once dubbed the “City of Light,” the seaside city of Jacmel was the first place in the Caribbean to get electricity back in the nineteenth century. These days, there’s something else unusual about Jacmel’s power use – it’s limited, meaning if you Airbnb here, you better be prepared with backup batteries for the daily ritual of switching off from the grid.

For many Americans power outages are rare, unpredictable, inconvenient and even spooky. They’re when you realise you forgot to put fresh batteries in your flashlights, and/or leave your flashlights where you can find them in the dark. For the residents of Jacmel, though, it’s part of the daily rhythm, and it doesn’t seem to phase the travellers who love coming back to Jacmel every year. Jacmel is famous for festivals, and in-between it’s a magical destination, well-equipped to help you switch-off and hit reset.

Stairs with a mosaic of words in Jacmel, Haiti — Stairs with mosaik art in Jacmel
Photo: Angelo Miramonti

Art & Culture

Known as the culture capital of Haiti, Jacmel is a hub for art, folklore, foodies, festivals and nightlife. Colorful paper-mache creations, often seen during Jacmel’s annual carnival, can be found and bought all year round. Many of the masks and paintings are reflective of Haiti’s deeply unique religion – the potent symbology of Haitian Vodou infuses the city streets.

Jacmel is a compact city, and easy to explore on foot. For a closer look, you can ask local guides Experience Jacmel to take you to visit a Vodou “peristyle” or help you make your own carnival mask.

A tourist stands on a stone bridge across rapids at Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti — Gaillard, Cayes Jacmel, Haiti
Photo: Anton Lau

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Are you more of an outdoorsy-type? Jacmel offers excellent proximity to many of Haiti’s most exciting al-fresco adventures. Reconnect with nature at La Vallée, Bassin Bleu, Marigot or Fort Ogè in Cap Rouge – all within a short drive or a sturdy hike.

The tropical sun will test your mettle, but for the brave and well-prepared there are caves waiting to be discovered, waterfalls waiting to be jumped off of and swam under, steep and shady jungle paths for you to leave footprints on, and crisp mountain air to reset your cortisol levels. You’ll find adventure itineraries suited to your level from novice hiker to hardened overland survivor.

people swimming by beach with trees — La Saline Beach in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Crazy-good beaches

If you’d rather hit the snooze button than the gym, no sweat! Beach bums can relax at one of Jacmel’s several stunning strips of paradisian sand, including Cyvadier, Raymond les Bains, L’Amitie and Kabic. Soak up the sun, catch some waves, sip on a coconut (would you like that with rum?), and lick your fingers after a plate of freshly caught and barbecued seafood.

Whether you’re hoping to realign your chakras or just happy to find inner peace in a succession of ice-cold rum cocktails, you’ll find bliss on the beaches of Jacmel.

The colorful exterior of Cafe Koze in Jacmel, Haiti — Cafe Koze in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

The food culture in Jacmel is thriving, and published guides struggle to keep up with the pace of new hotels, bars and restaurants springing up all of the place.

Take to the mosaic boardwalk as you trace the coastline, by day a popular place for active types out jogging, and by night full of eclectically-clothed hipster students. Venture just a couple of streets inland from the boardwalk and you’ll find a mix of traditional and boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries, with a few souvenir shops thrown into the mix.

Where to eat

If you’ve just arrived, settle in at the chilled-out Cafe Koze, where you can people-watch over their mouth-watering homemade rum-and-raisin ice-cream.

Hotel Florita, once the mansion of a coffee magnate, will appeal to fans of Graham Greene. Here you can sit in the sultry semi-open courtyard (the UNESCO-listed hotel has no air conditioners), and sip a traditional Haitian filter coffee – exceedingly sweet and rich, and every bit as addictive as Vietnamese coffee. The restaurant serves excellent Haitian food palatable for cautious Americans and Europeans, but be warned: waiting times can exceed an hour. You won’t mind though, because they also make delectable rum sours, and the first is on the house!

If what you’re after is exotic food and exquisite beachfront views, head to Hotel Cyvadier Plage. Their shrimp and chicken dishes are crowd pleasers, but their specialty is in brightly constructed plates based on seasonal catch. In fact, if you’re breakfasting in the courtyard (and know a little French), you’re so close to the lapping shore that you can chat with fisherman as they tie up their boats to deliver the catch of the day.

Where to drink

Start with La Taverne or Belle Epoque Barak. La Taverne is where you’ll find more rum sours, and occasionally salsa performances. Belle Epoque is where expats go to stay up late listening to hip hop and house. They also do pretty good wings – not a bad way to line your stomach before a long rum-fuelled night of dancing.

A line of dancers perform at the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti — Carnival in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Dance to your own beat

Jacmel is one of the friendliest and most tranquil cities in Haiti, but if you want to pack the most into a short break here, the best way to plug yourself into the pulse that feeds the city is to book in advance to stay during one of the festival weekends. Renowned DJs and artists will bring together hundreds, sometimes thousands of people, from all walks of life, to sing, dance, and celebrate. Whether your flavour of choice is rara or bachata, compa or salsa, house or tango, ask around on a holiday weekend, and you will find your party.

There’s too many festivals to list them all here, but briefly: Independence Day and New Years Day share January 1, and Carnival (think an Afro-Caribbean Mardi Gras) is held in the lead up to Shrove Tuesday. There’s also festivals that celebrate storytelling, rum, and the identity-affirming Rara.

Who should go?

Jacmel holds something for everyone. Whether you are looking for new adventure, to reconnect nature, to let your hair down surrounded by the pounding festival rhythms, or to rejuvenate on sandy beaches, or a cultural experience bringing you closer to the myths and folklore of the people of Haiti, Jacmel has something to slake your thirst and sate your curiosity.

One last thing before you head back up over the mountains: buy yourself a t-shirt that reads “Jacmel Mwen Fou Pou Ou” (Kreyol for “Jacmel, I’m Crazy For You”) and become part of the unofficial Jacmel fan club. Welcome to the gang.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2018.

Ã—Select Language

Destinations

Soak up Spectacular Views from the Heights of Boutillier

Spectacular Views

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

L’Observatoire

Romantic Getaway

When to go

a touch of haitian wisdom

Getting there

Find Boutillier

External Links

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Looking for some cool things to do?

Paradise for your inbox

Hike to historic Fort Jacques

Tucked away high in the dense mountains of Haiti is Fort Jacques – one of the country’s oldest and best preserved forts.

Defending Haiti’s Independence

From Our Land to Your Home

Getting there

From Our Land to Your Home

Get the most out of your visit

Find Fort Jacques

External Links

Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

Explore more of Haiti’s history

Paradise for your inbox

Stop to Smell the Roses at Place Saint-Pierre

Mature tropical trees throw shade across Place Saint-Pierre, where you can wander around stone paths and eat an ice-cream on metalwork benches made by the artisans of Croix-de-Bouquet.

a touch of haitian wisdom

What else happens here?

History

Find Place Saint Pierre

External Links

Citadelle Henri

Our recommendations

Paradise for your inbox

Hike the Hillsides of Forêt des Pins

Fresh air, deep tree cover and stunning views make the Forêt de Pins a sought-after destination for active travellers looking for adventure and the chance to get close to Haiti’s wildlife and nature.

a touch of haitian wisdom

Where to stay

Getting there: Port-au-Prince to Gros Cheval

a touch of haitian wisdom

Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

Find Forêt des Pins

External Links

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

The Peabody House – A Gingerbread Palace

The Birds of Haiti on Your Wall

Take a closer look

Comfort is key

From Our Land to Your Home

A flourishing national architectural style

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Light, air and love

Find The Peabody House

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Explore Haiti’s history and heritage

Paradise for your inbox

CITY GUIDES-Jacmel

Urban Guides: Jacmel

Switch off in the City of Light

Art & Culture

A launchpad for mountain adventure

Crazy-good beaches

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

start your day the Haitian way

Where to eat

Where to drink

Dance to your own beat

Who should go?

Discover Sacred Vodou Symbols!

Top things to see in Haiti

Paradise for your inbox

Plan Your Trip

Destinations

Information

Company

Select Language

a touch of
haitian wisdom

a touch of
haitian wisdom

a touch of
haitian wisdom

a touch of
haitian wisdom

start your day
the Haitian way