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Art & Culture

Festikap Kite Festival

three haitian boys flying a kite
Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Festikap Kite Festival

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Picture this: After a week of adventuring across Haiti, from hikes to road-trips to the beach and hidden waterfalls, it’s time to celebrate the new year. You decide to go to Jacmel and watch the fireworks by the beach. The next day, you throw a picnic blanket in the car, drive up to La Vallée, and admire a sky full of kites while you kick back with food and drinks. You can even try your hand at flying a kite yourself, with the help of other participants or the festival organisers. It will take a little less than 300 gourdes (about US $3) to buy a nice kite and participate.

Because you can buy a kite on arrival, the bar for getting involved is pretty low, so Festikap makes a great spontaneous adventure! The festival happens every January 2nd, making it the perfect activity for anyone planning to spend New Year’s Eve in Jacmel (or – even Port-au-Prince).

Festikap vibes are comparable to Champ-de-Mars in February during carnival. Kites in a stunning display of colors and creativity fill the sky for hours on end: it’s a flying art exhibition. With children running around, elders watching and younger folks flying their kites, the atmosphere in La Vallée is like one big camping trip.

Behind the magic

The famous kite-flying festival of La Vallée de Jacmel — or “La Vallée” as locals call it — will be celebrating its 10th anniversary in the coming year. Festikap is a festival put together by the Organization of Young Valley University Students for Progress (Organisation Universitaire de Jeune Valléens pour Le Progrès) with the goal of preserving a tradition deeply rooted in Haitian culture but threatened by forgetfulness and abandonment. This yearly event serves as an entry point to the beautiful community of La Vallée de Jacmel. The celebrations conveniently happen on January 2nd which is a holiday in Haiti (Ancestor’s day).

Kite flying is a vital part of Haitian culture. Starting in the month of April, on the roofs of houses all across the country, children, their parents, and sometimes even their grandparents can be seen tugging on thin, nearly invisible pieces of thread tied up to makeshift kites. Most of them are made of plastic; the kind used to sell papita or roasted peanuts in — some clear, some blue, some pink. Others are more elaborate, made of brown paper with red and green accents, tails, and flourishes. All together, they dot the bright blue skies of early summer in colorful spiraling swarms.

In preparation for Festikap, organizers put together workshops to create a certain number of kites to be exhibited on that day. This festival is not just recreational, though – the preparation process encourages creativity and community engagement from different crowds. The festival hopes to revive interest in the endangered tradition of making and flying kites, and the efforts that go into planning Festikap can be considered as a kind of movement meant to transfer a skill and salvage a tenuous cultural heritage.

haitian boy in blue jeans with kite
Boy with kite at Festikap Festival, La Vallée de Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting there

La Vallée is located an hour’s drive northwest of Jacmel and about three hours’ drive southwest of Port-au-Prince. Although the name La Vallée suggests a low valley hidden in shadows, the town actually stands a half mile (around 800 meters) above sea level, and offers a panoramic view of the south of Haiti. A trip up to La Vallée unlocks the perfect experience for anyone hungry for a little bit more than simply spending a weekend at the beach.

Festikap is a great way to experience Haiti differently and genuinely. If colors, music, and community are your thing, it’s a must-visit event to add to your itinerary!


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published October 2019


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Visit a museum dedicated to Vodou

large museum building decorated with snake paintings
The Bureau of Ethnology, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Visit a museum dedicated to Vodou

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A visit to the Bureau of Ethnology, a museum dedicated to Vodou in Haiti, is one of the top things to do in Port-au-Prince.

Near Champ de Mars at the corner of Rue Magny and Rue Oswald Durand, this museum allows you to get acquainted with Vodou and its place in Haitian society.

This is the best place to begin an exploration of “lwa” and the many rhythms and shades of Vodou. Inside, you’ll find Vodou artifacts, artwork and anecdotes of anthropological research on Vodou (also spelled Vodoun and Vaudou) traditions. Most of the exhibits are described in French.

bronze statue of taino indian in museum courtyard
Taíno statue at The Bureau of Ethnology, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

About the collection

The exterior facades of the National Ethnology Office house a permanent photo exhibition on several aspects of the life and activities of Haitian society: scenes of the Haitian national carnival, Vodou rituals, Vodou-infused folk dance and more. 

The interior offers an equally captivating photo exhibition of scenes of social and cultural customs specific to the Haitian nation, including national costumes and their histories. Haitian artists are also represented here, accompanied by interpretive material (mostly written in French). Key spiritual concepts, from the “lakou mansson” of Léogâne (Haitian Creole: Leyogàn) to the “lakou Badjo, Soukri, Souvenance” of Gonaïves, are depicted together with explanations of their importance in Haitian society.

Founded in 1941 by Haitian novelist Jacques Roumain and run today by Erol Josué, the museum has as its mission the preservation and classification of all anthropological artefacts found on the Haitian side of the island of Hispaniola, including protecting and organising excursions to important archaeological sites. It’s possible for visitors to join some of these – just ask when you get to the museum.

bronze statue of wild boar
Statue at The Bureau of Ethnology, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

Signposted as the Bureau National d’Ethnologie, The Bureau of Ethnology is on the corner of Rue Magny and Rue Oswald Durand, close to Champ de Mars in the heart of downtown Port-au-Prince.


Written by Jean Fils.

Published September 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon

interior of haitian MUPANAH museum with golden sculptures
MUPANAH – Museum of The Haitian National Pantheon
Photo: Anton Lau

The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon

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About the museum

Much of Haitian heritage is preserved orally. Songs, stories and structured debates rehearse and refine the histories and experiences down the centuries. As a visitor, you can only scratch the surface of this unseen medium of memory. If you’re in Champ-de-Mars, and you’re lucky, you might witness the debate circles that are part of the island nation’s oral tradition.

Material cultural memories, however, are a little easier for the curious traveller to find. If you’re in downtown Champ-de-Mars, you can find it in the Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon, or MUPANAH. Built partially underground, this museum displays artefacts illustrating Haiti’s history with an emphasis on its revolutionary years and its political and cultural forefathers.

Thanks to being partly underground, the museum survived the massive earthquake of 2010 almost unscathed. First opened in 1983, MUPANAH was designed to safeguard and display the lives and accomplishments of the country’s important forefathers: Alexandre Pétion, Henry Christophe, Toussaint Louverture, and Jean-Jacques Dessalines. This is where a lot of Haiti’s physical colonial history is kept intact.

What you’ll see

For a small fee, visitors get access to a wealth of history on Haiti and its past. Self-designated as the guardian of Haitian history, the museum is split into two show rooms: a permanent exhibit, and a temporary exhibit.

The permanent exhibit showcases artefacts from the pre-Columbian period to the contemporary period. It emphasizes the revolutionary period, during which an army of self-freed slaves and free people of color fought off the colonial system to abolish slavery.

A tour guide take visitors through Haitian history, starting off with the Taíno people who first inhabited the island. Visitors are walked through the voyages of the first colonizers to set foot on the island: the Spaniards.

Learn how Spanish colonizers used the Taíno people of the island as a resource, and how it came about that they began to traffic African slaves to Hispaniola as well.

See real examples of the actual shackles that were used to keep slaves under control, alongside gruesome instruments of torture used the slave masters. While this may be shocking for some visitors, the museum and its advisory board believe this is an important part of Haitian history that should be kept alive for the sake of our collective memory.

See the anchor of the Santa Maria ship – on which Christopher Colombus arrived in Haiti – standing at a daunting thirteen feet tall. This cold hunk of metal is a chilling reminder of the trigger that began the centuries of upheaval now embedded in the Haiti’s history and national identity.

Read documents signed by, and belonging to, prominent presidents – such as noted dictator François Duvalier – the museum also features the silver handgun which Henri Christophe used to commit suicide. On a more uplifting note, you’ll get to see the bell that was rung to announce that the country’s population were claiming their independence.

Temporary exhibits

The temporary exhibit displays artworks from various Haitian artists, and rotates on a regular basis. The art is often chosen based on a particular theme, including current events, music, social and economic issues, or historical events such as French colonisation.

Relax in gorgeous gardens

Outside of the museum are the MUPANAH Gardens. Open from Monday to Saturday, the Gardens are set in a lovely white greenhouse-like space with large open windows throughout. Light, airy, and expansive, the Gardens are a much needed antidote to Haiti’s often heavy history, and are a worthy destination in their own right for anyone looking for fresh air and tranquility in Port-au-Prince.

The Gardens feature a sculpture garden and sitting area set in the middle of typical Haitian greenery, and house the museum’s restaurant and gift shop. Overlooking the lush green spaces surrounding the museum, you can dig into some of the city’s best French cuisine. Sitting at a table in the Gardens for lunch is an upscale outdoor dining experience – a vivid contrast to the sizzling street food scene of downtown Port-au-Prince.

The Gardens also serve as a popular location for cultural events all year round, including the International Jazz Festival of Port-au-Prince. Special events, meals, or cocktails are announced at the venue itself, but also via social media.

Getting there

The museum is open seven days a week, including holidays. Tours are offered in French, Creole, and in English.

The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon is located in Champs de Mars, downtown Port-au-Prince.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2019


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Festi Graffiti – Haiti’s International Festival of Urban Arts

haitian street artist painting a graffiti mural
Graffiti artist working on a mural in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Festi Graffiti 2022

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Home to dozens of galleries and artist-led-initiatives, the suburbs of Turgeau and Pétion-Ville are usually the hub of the annual Festi Graffiti – The International Festival of Urban Arts.

This year however, the street art festival takes place in Cap-Haïtien.

Ramble through the sun-bleached streets in Haiti’s second city and soak up the freshest work by emerging Haitian street artists and visiting artists, from figurative murals to photography installations revealing Haiti’s urban dance battle scene.

This year’s installment of Festi Graffiti is happening between August 16 and 22, 2022. Hosting street artists from Mexico, Jamaica, and United States. This year’s theme is “natural disasters – living with them.”

Look out for these artists

Established international street artists on the bill for this year include Mexican mural artist Eva Bracamontes (check out her Instagram here) and American street artist OU (check out his Instagram here).

Local Haitian artists include Snoopy (@snoopytag), OliGa (@oligarts), and RAYZA (@rayzatheking), plus an ever-changing lineup of emerging street artists who show up each year to show off their skills. Expect to see plenty of evocative murals as well old-school difficult-to-decipher tags.

Don’t miss

Downtown Cap-Haïtien, don’t miss your chance to taste delicious local dishes at some of the city’s best restaurants.

A host of activities are available during festival dates, from guided tours to hands-on workshops. Be sure not to miss anything by following Festi Graffiti on Instagram and Facebook.


Written by Jean Fils.

Published June 2019

Updated August 2022


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Peer into the Studio of Haitian Artist Maxan Jean Louis

Maxan Jean Louis in his studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Peer into the Studio of Haitian Artist Maxan Jean Louis

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Take a look inside Maxan’s studio

Originally on the path to become a bricklayer, Maxan Jean-Louis picked up a paintbrush under the advice of his cousin and altered his life forever. Born in the west-Haitian province of Jérémie in 1966, Maxan travelled to Port-au-Prince as a youth to find his way as an artist. Since then, his work has found its way into European museums, international private collections and the homes of Maxan’s friends, who range from teachers to Ambassadors.

A true artist and a simple, bohemian spirit, Maxan treats his friends from all walks of life with the same respect and kind sense of humour. Every week, he welcomes visitors into his home studio, east of Route de Freres at a dirt road cutoff one mile past the Police Commissariat.

Visitors enter the gate into an empty two car garage and walk through to an open air art gallery. Exterior walls of a never-finished two-story house are covered in decades of his art. Political works from the 1990s are hung on unfinished cement walls around the home’s exterior. The political scenes are juxtaposed with the more figurative, Vodou-inspired style that has made him celebrated internationally as well as here in his native Haiti.

Climbing the stairs that wind around to the back of the house, you enter the creative domain of Maxan Jean Louis. A wide studio is covered in floor-to-ceiling canvases in various stages of work. To the left you’ll see another permanent fixture in an unfinished room without a roof.

Leaned against the cinderblock walls are chest-high mounds of empty Prestige beer bottles, with the odd Rhum BarbanCourt tossed in. It’s an impressive sight and has taken years to build up. Beaming with pride, Maxan takes the mountain of bottles in with a fatherly gesture, and they’re transformed into a deliberate installation.

Near the house is a waterfall, and if you’re in the mood for a short hike, Maxan will gladly show off this nearby natural wonder. He might even take you swimming in the basin below.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Inspired by visions

While Maxan is considered an artist of the Saint Soleil school, he’ll tell you that he paints in two different styles. The first is characterised by fantastical, colourful and elongated forms that rise up off a vibrant background. It’s a body of work rooted in a dream world, and inspired by his own visions.

These Vodou-influenced canvases range from miniatures to murals, but all emit movement and dance. These are the works of a natural talent, born from experiments and visionary moments. A predominant theme is release from the heavy burn of everyday life. Visually, it represents the same escape so many people seek, and find, during religious ceremonies, dances or musical festivals.

Maxan’s second style is a distinct departure in mood, form and colour. The pallet is paler and the theme is overtly political. According to the book “Artistes Haitian” published by APAM, Maxan was heavily influenced by the political coup of 1991 which ousted Jean Bertrand Aristid and brought forth a wave of violence against civilians.

Maxan turned to surrealism and began to document atrocities and political assassinations in vivid colour. They were events that he lived through, and he turned to art to express his reactions. But Maxan is above all, a jovial spirit. Grand gestures of generosity flow freely from his rough hands. He offers new friends masterful paintings like they’re chocolate bars and exchanges with artists whose work he admires.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

“There’s not enough room”

Maxan has built up an impressive art collection over the past 30 years. The four main rooms of his house are covered in floor-to-ceiling tableaus from local Haitians and international artists alike. Works of art are stacked three deep on couches and floors: there’s not enough room to hang them all. And this isn’t even his own work.

There’s an advantage to being a former mason, still close-knit with the building community. Maxan will regularly have a 10 to 20 foot high canvas stretched and work on three of them simultaneously. He adores wild, untraditional canvas sizes. The more “dezod” or uncouth the dimensions the better. The grey exterior walls of his multi story home are often covered in his orange, green, and vibrant red paintings.

With such a prodigious pace, Maxan has to design his murals to be mobile. To create more space for new giant murals, Maxan has sold them to expats, embassies and private dealers. Maxan recalls that in 2017 one collector visited his studio and took home 27 paintings.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Where to find Maxan’s art

In Haiti, you’ll find Maxan featured in the most prominent galleries and homes. Beyond the Caribbean, Maxan turns up in France, Romania, and the Netherlands. For fine art enthusiasts, it may be difficult to reconcile this reputation with the slapdash studio and charming, crooked smile of Maxan. He is most often seen zipping around Port-au-Prince on the back of a motorcycle with a baseball cap on his head, baggy T-shirt, and cargo jeans.

Many weeks he heads this way to the Lycee Francais to teach art classes to the children of diplomats and local Haitians who are enrolled in the French system. French support for Haitian cultural promotion and Maxan in particular, is longstanding.

His first major exhibit was at the French Embassy in 2005 and he visits France every summer with the Haitian group PROM-ART HAITI to engage in cultural exchanges and display recent art works at a group show. In summer 2018 he visited Romania and Morocco.

Interested in finding out more? Call +509 3637 7042 to arrange a visit to Maxan’s studio.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published May 2019


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Meet the Haitian Artists from the Village of Noailles

Man walks with wheelbarrow past metal statue in Village Noailles, Haiti
Village Noailles
Photo: Franck Fontain

Meet the Metal-makers of the Artistic Village of Noailles

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In the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquet, east of Port-au-Prince, the streets echo with the clang of hammer and tong and the precise tap-tap of chisels. Follow the sound as it meanders through the paved streets, and you’ll find yourself in the artistic village of Noailles – an open plaza connecting the clattering workshops and vibrant storefronts of the city’s thriving metalwork art scene.

Mornings in the village start with the sound of artists and blacksmiths opening up their shops. The work from the day or the night before is brought back into the light, and the serious business of bargain-hunting can begin. While shoppers compete to snap up the most interesting pieces before anyone else sees them, the artists themselves often work collaboratively – you’ll see them walking in and out of each other’s workshops to put the finishing touches on collaborative artworks.

Magic leaking through the seams

The entire village of Noailles is infused with the craft of metalwork, but in some parts of town it’s less obvious. Not every artist in the village has been able to splash out on a whitewashed adobe storefront, but the industry is everywhere: for every easy-on-the-eyes gift shop that fronts onto the open plaza, there are ten humbler workshops hidden behind fences of corrugated iron or gaily painted wood.

Here in the village of Noailles, art springs to life every single morning, in every single corner. It is the origin of most metalwork you’ll see around Port-au-Prince, building on a rich tradition of creativity that was born right here.

The making of a movement

Known as Kwadèbouke in Haitian creole, the city of Croix-des-Bouquet has an interesting history. Originally a coastal city, it was moved inland after the devastating 1770 earthquake. Thanks to that act of foresight, the descendants of the 1770 survivors luckily avoided the worst of the 2010 earthquake.

The practice of metalwork in Croix-des-Bouquets started back in the 1940s. Georges Liautaud pioneered the movement by opening a blacksmith shop where he undertook basic metalwork such as repairing tools and, on occasion, creating custom crosses for the tombs of the cemetery.

A few years later Liautaud crossed paths with DeWitt Peters, an American art lover, who was the first to encourage Liautaud to explore metalwork as a form of art and to promote it in Haiti. Soon, Liautaud had more commissions for his installations and sculptures than he had time to fulfil, and a guild industry was born.

At first, Liautaud worked mostly with recycled materials – specifically, metal drums. This opened a world of creativity and various techniques that were previously unexplored, and by the 1970s, an artistic vein of metalwork had spread across the country. Its heart, however, has stayed in the village of Noailles and Croix-des-Bouquets remains the crux of metalwork in Haiti, attracting artists from around the country who want to work in this atmosphere and show off their skills to travelling art lovers.

What you’ll find here

Here you’ll find original sculptures hammered out or precision-welded from repurposed pieces of metal that began their lives as car-parts, cutlery, or wrought-iron finials. Reborn, you’ll find them as candle-holders, plates, mirror frames, large focal wall-pieces and less luggage-friendly items like practical furniture. It’s astonishing to see such a breadth of ideas and such a high level of skill produced in what seems to many strangers a rather humble birthplace.

Tucked away amongst the tumbledown streets of Croix-des-Bouquet, the artistic village of Noailles is proud to be the birthplace of metalwork as we now know it in Haiti. By buying an artwork from Noailles, you can support the local craftsmen who hone their creative trades here, and keep a memory of Haiti that will last forever and start plenty of good

Top tips

It’s best to bring gourdes with some small change, though many merchants accept American dollars. It’s also wise to plan ahead by bringing a way to take your new purchases home with you – although you’ll find plenty of pocket-size trinkets, some of the works in the village are quite impressive in size!

Remember that these artists are also businesspersons. Be prepared to haggle here just like you would for fresh produce from the farmers’ markets or the artworks sold on Champ de Mars.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle