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The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon

interior of haitian MUPANAH museum with golden sculptures
MUPANAH – Museum of The Haitian National Pantheon
Photo: Anton Lau

The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon

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About the museum

Much of Haitian heritage is preserved orally. Songs, stories and structured debates rehearse and refine the histories and experiences down the centuries. As a visitor, you can only scratch the surface of this unseen medium of memory. If you’re in Champ-de-Mars, and you’re lucky, you might witness the debate circles that are part of the island nation’s oral tradition.

Material cultural memories, however, are a little easier for the curious traveller to find. If you’re in downtown Champ-de-Mars, you can find it in the Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon, or MUPANAH. Built partially underground, this museum displays artefacts illustrating Haiti’s history with an emphasis on its revolutionary years and its political and cultural forefathers.

Thanks to being partly underground, the museum survived the massive earthquake of 2010 almost unscathed. First opened in 1983, MUPANAH was designed to safeguard and display the lives and accomplishments of the country’s important forefathers: Alexandre Pétion, Henry Christophe, Toussaint Louverture, and Jean-Jacques Dessalines. This is where a lot of Haiti’s physical colonial history is kept intact.

What you’ll see

For a small fee, visitors get access to a wealth of history on Haiti and its past. Self-designated as the guardian of Haitian history, the museum is split into two show rooms: a permanent exhibit, and a temporary exhibit.

The permanent exhibit showcases artefacts from the pre-Columbian period to the contemporary period. It emphasizes the revolutionary period, during which an army of self-freed slaves and free people of color fought off the colonial system to abolish slavery.

A tour guide take visitors through Haitian history, starting off with the Taíno people who first inhabited the island. Visitors are walked through the voyages of the first colonizers to set foot on the island: the Spaniards.

Learn how Spanish colonizers used the Taíno people of the island as a resource, and how it came about that they began to traffic African slaves to Hispaniola as well.

See real examples of the actual shackles that were used to keep slaves under control, alongside gruesome instruments of torture used the slave masters. While this may be shocking for some visitors, the museum and its advisory board believe this is an important part of Haitian history that should be kept alive for the sake of our collective memory.

See the anchor of the Santa Maria ship – on which Christopher Colombus arrived in Haiti – standing at a daunting thirteen feet tall. This cold hunk of metal is a chilling reminder of the trigger that began the centuries of upheaval now embedded in the Haiti’s history and national identity.

Read documents signed by, and belonging to, prominent presidents – such as noted dictator François Duvalier – the museum also features the silver handgun which Henri Christophe used to commit suicide. On a more uplifting note, you’ll get to see the bell that was rung to announce that the country’s population were claiming their independence.

Temporary exhibits

The temporary exhibit displays artworks from various Haitian artists, and rotates on a regular basis. The art is often chosen based on a particular theme, including current events, music, social and economic issues, or historical events such as French colonisation.

Relax in gorgeous gardens

Outside of the museum are the MUPANAH Gardens. Open from Monday to Saturday, the Gardens are set in a lovely white greenhouse-like space with large open windows throughout. Light, airy, and expansive, the Gardens are a much needed antidote to Haiti’s often heavy history, and are a worthy destination in their own right for anyone looking for fresh air and tranquility in Port-au-Prince.

The Gardens feature a sculpture garden and sitting area set in the middle of typical Haitian greenery, and house the museum’s restaurant and gift shop. Overlooking the lush green spaces surrounding the museum, you can dig into some of the city’s best French cuisine. Sitting at a table in the Gardens for lunch is an upscale outdoor dining experience – a vivid contrast to the sizzling street food scene of downtown Port-au-Prince.

The Gardens also serve as a popular location for cultural events all year round, including the International Jazz Festival of Port-au-Prince. Special events, meals, or cocktails are announced at the venue itself, but also via social media.

Getting there

The museum is open seven days a week, including holidays. Tours are offered in French, Creole, and in English.

The Museum of the Haitian National Pantheon is located in Champs de Mars, downtown Port-au-Prince.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published July 2019


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Festi Graffiti – Haiti’s International Festival of Urban Arts

haitian street artist painting a graffiti mural
Graffiti artist working on a mural in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Festi Graffiti 2022

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Home to dozens of galleries and artist-led-initiatives, the suburbs of Turgeau and Pétion-Ville are usually the hub of the annual Festi Graffiti – The International Festival of Urban Arts.

This year however, the street art festival takes place in Cap-Haïtien.

Ramble through the sun-bleached streets in Haiti’s second city and soak up the freshest work by emerging Haitian street artists and visiting artists, from figurative murals to photography installations revealing Haiti’s urban dance battle scene.

This year’s installment of Festi Graffiti is happening between August 16 and 22, 2022. Hosting street artists from Mexico, Jamaica, and United States. This year’s theme is “natural disasters – living with them.”

Look out for these artists

Established international street artists on the bill for this year include Mexican mural artist Eva Bracamontes (check out her Instagram here) and American street artist OU (check out his Instagram here).

Local Haitian artists include Snoopy (@snoopytag), OliGa (@oligarts), and RAYZA (@rayzatheking), plus an ever-changing lineup of emerging street artists who show up each year to show off their skills. Expect to see plenty of evocative murals as well old-school difficult-to-decipher tags.

Don’t miss

Downtown Cap-Haïtien, don’t miss your chance to taste delicious local dishes at some of the city’s best restaurants.

A host of activities are available during festival dates, from guided tours to hands-on workshops. Be sure not to miss anything by following Festi Graffiti on Instagram and Facebook.


Written by Jean Fils.

Published June 2019

Updated August 2022


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Peer into the Studio of Haitian Artist Maxan Jean Louis

Maxan Jean Louis in his studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Peer into the Studio of Haitian Artist Maxan Jean Louis

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Take a look inside Maxan’s studio

Originally on the path to become a bricklayer, Maxan Jean-Louis picked up a paintbrush under the advice of his cousin and altered his life forever. Born in the west-Haitian province of Jérémie in 1966, Maxan travelled to Port-au-Prince as a youth to find his way as an artist. Since then, his work has found its way into European museums, international private collections and the homes of Maxan’s friends, who range from teachers to Ambassadors.

A true artist and a simple, bohemian spirit, Maxan treats his friends from all walks of life with the same respect and kind sense of humour. Every week, he welcomes visitors into his home studio, east of Route de Freres at a dirt road cutoff one mile past the Police Commissariat.

Visitors enter the gate into an empty two car garage and walk through to an open air art gallery. Exterior walls of a never-finished two-story house are covered in decades of his art. Political works from the 1990s are hung on unfinished cement walls around the home’s exterior. The political scenes are juxtaposed with the more figurative, Vodou-inspired style that has made him celebrated internationally as well as here in his native Haiti.

Climbing the stairs that wind around to the back of the house, you enter the creative domain of Maxan Jean Louis. A wide studio is covered in floor-to-ceiling canvases in various stages of work. To the left you’ll see another permanent fixture in an unfinished room without a roof.

Leaned against the cinderblock walls are chest-high mounds of empty Prestige beer bottles, with the odd Rhum BarbanCourt tossed in. It’s an impressive sight and has taken years to build up. Beaming with pride, Maxan takes the mountain of bottles in with a fatherly gesture, and they’re transformed into a deliberate installation.

Near the house is a waterfall, and if you’re in the mood for a short hike, Maxan will gladly show off this nearby natural wonder. He might even take you swimming in the basin below.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Inspired by visions

While Maxan is considered an artist of the Saint Soleil school, he’ll tell you that he paints in two different styles. The first is characterised by fantastical, colourful and elongated forms that rise up off a vibrant background. It’s a body of work rooted in a dream world, and inspired by his own visions.

These Vodou-influenced canvases range from miniatures to murals, but all emit movement and dance. These are the works of a natural talent, born from experiments and visionary moments. A predominant theme is release from the heavy burn of everyday life. Visually, it represents the same escape so many people seek, and find, during religious ceremonies, dances or musical festivals.

Maxan’s second style is a distinct departure in mood, form and colour. The pallet is paler and the theme is overtly political. According to the book “Artistes Haitian” published by APAM, Maxan was heavily influenced by the political coup of 1991 which ousted Jean Bertrand Aristid and brought forth a wave of violence against civilians.

Maxan turned to surrealism and began to document atrocities and political assassinations in vivid colour. They were events that he lived through, and he turned to art to express his reactions. But Maxan is above all, a jovial spirit. Grand gestures of generosity flow freely from his rough hands. He offers new friends masterful paintings like they’re chocolate bars and exchanges with artists whose work he admires.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

“There’s not enough room”

Maxan has built up an impressive art collection over the past 30 years. The four main rooms of his house are covered in floor-to-ceiling tableaus from local Haitians and international artists alike. Works of art are stacked three deep on couches and floors: there’s not enough room to hang them all. And this isn’t even his own work.

There’s an advantage to being a former mason, still close-knit with the building community. Maxan will regularly have a 10 to 20 foot high canvas stretched and work on three of them simultaneously. He adores wild, untraditional canvas sizes. The more “dezod” or uncouth the dimensions the better. The grey exterior walls of his multi story home are often covered in his orange, green, and vibrant red paintings.

With such a prodigious pace, Maxan has to design his murals to be mobile. To create more space for new giant murals, Maxan has sold them to expats, embassies and private dealers. Maxan recalls that in 2017 one collector visited his studio and took home 27 paintings.

Maxan Jean Louis studio, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Franck Fontain

Where to find Maxan’s art

In Haiti, you’ll find Maxan featured in the most prominent galleries and homes. Beyond the Caribbean, Maxan turns up in France, Romania, and the Netherlands. For fine art enthusiasts, it may be difficult to reconcile this reputation with the slapdash studio and charming, crooked smile of Maxan. He is most often seen zipping around Port-au-Prince on the back of a motorcycle with a baseball cap on his head, baggy T-shirt, and cargo jeans.

Many weeks he heads this way to the Lycee Francais to teach art classes to the children of diplomats and local Haitians who are enrolled in the French system. French support for Haitian cultural promotion and Maxan in particular, is longstanding.

His first major exhibit was at the French Embassy in 2005 and he visits France every summer with the Haitian group PROM-ART HAITI to engage in cultural exchanges and display recent art works at a group show. In summer 2018 he visited Romania and Morocco.

Interested in finding out more? Call +509 3637 7042 to arrange a visit to Maxan’s studio.


Written by Emily Bauman.

Published May 2019


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Meet the Haitian Artists from the Village of Noailles

Man walks with wheelbarrow past metal statue in Village Noailles, Haiti
Village Noailles
Photo: Franck Fontain

Meet the Metal-makers of the Artistic Village of Noailles

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In the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquet, east of Port-au-Prince, the streets echo with the clang of hammer and tong and the precise tap-tap of chisels. Follow the sound as it meanders through the paved streets, and you’ll find yourself in the artistic village of Noailles – an open plaza connecting the clattering workshops and vibrant storefronts of the city’s thriving metalwork art scene.

Mornings in the village start with the sound of artists and blacksmiths opening up their shops. The work from the day or the night before is brought back into the light, and the serious business of bargain-hunting can begin. While shoppers compete to snap up the most interesting pieces before anyone else sees them, the artists themselves often work collaboratively – you’ll see them walking in and out of each other’s workshops to put the finishing touches on collaborative artworks.

Magic leaking through the seams

The entire village of Noailles is infused with the craft of metalwork, but in some parts of town it’s less obvious. Not every artist in the village has been able to splash out on a whitewashed adobe storefront, but the industry is everywhere: for every easy-on-the-eyes gift shop that fronts onto the open plaza, there are ten humbler workshops hidden behind fences of corrugated iron or gaily painted wood.

Here in the village of Noailles, art springs to life every single morning, in every single corner. It is the origin of most metalwork you’ll see around Port-au-Prince, building on a rich tradition of creativity that was born right here.

The making of a movement

Known as Kwadèbouke in Haitian creole, the city of Croix-des-Bouquet has an interesting history. Originally a coastal city, it was moved inland after the devastating 1770 earthquake. Thanks to that act of foresight, the descendants of the 1770 survivors luckily avoided the worst of the 2010 earthquake.

The practice of metalwork in Croix-des-Bouquets started back in the 1940s. Georges Liautaud pioneered the movement by opening a blacksmith shop where he undertook basic metalwork such as repairing tools and, on occasion, creating custom crosses for the tombs of the cemetery.

A few years later Liautaud crossed paths with DeWitt Peters, an American art lover, who was the first to encourage Liautaud to explore metalwork as a form of art and to promote it in Haiti. Soon, Liautaud had more commissions for his installations and sculptures than he had time to fulfil, and a guild industry was born.

At first, Liautaud worked mostly with recycled materials – specifically, metal drums. This opened a world of creativity and various techniques that were previously unexplored, and by the 1970s, an artistic vein of metalwork had spread across the country. Its heart, however, has stayed in the village of Noailles and Croix-des-Bouquets remains the crux of metalwork in Haiti, attracting artists from around the country who want to work in this atmosphere and show off their skills to travelling art lovers.

What you’ll find here

Here you’ll find original sculptures hammered out or precision-welded from repurposed pieces of metal that began their lives as car-parts, cutlery, or wrought-iron finials. Reborn, you’ll find them as candle-holders, plates, mirror frames, large focal wall-pieces and less luggage-friendly items like practical furniture. It’s astonishing to see such a breadth of ideas and such a high level of skill produced in what seems to many strangers a rather humble birthplace.

Tucked away amongst the tumbledown streets of Croix-des-Bouquet, the artistic village of Noailles is proud to be the birthplace of metalwork as we now know it in Haiti. By buying an artwork from Noailles, you can support the local craftsmen who hone their creative trades here, and keep a memory of Haiti that will last forever and start plenty of good

Top tips

It’s best to bring gourdes with some small change, though many merchants accept American dollars. It’s also wise to plan ahead by bringing a way to take your new purchases home with you – although you’ll find plenty of pocket-size trinkets, some of the works in the village are quite impressive in size!

Remember that these artists are also businesspersons. Be prepared to haggle here just like you would for fresh produce from the farmers’ markets or the artworks sold on Champ de Mars.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published April 2019


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Uncover the Haitian Craft of Paper Mâché

Colorful paper mâché animal masks worn by participants in the carnival at Jacmel, Haiti
Paper mâché at Carnaval in Jacmel
Photo: Franck Fontain

Uncover the Haitian Craft of Paper Mâché

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It is two o’clock in the afternoon, in the chief town of Haiti’s southeastern department – Jacmel. On a small square at the end of the Rue Sainte Anne, a woman with locks down to her shoulders holds a paper mache bull’s head in her left hand and a brush in her right. This is Charlotte, one of the most popular artists of the city.

The paper mâché technique, she explains, is very old. It comes from Asia. ‘With the carnival tradition inherited from Europeans, we have found the perfect pretext to improve this ancestral art, to make it a representation of the Haitian culture already rich in color.’

A few steps from where we are stands a fresco of glass of all colors. We can read the words “Fanm se poto mitan”. The artist to whom we owe this work? Charlotte. In her studio, two plaques of honor and merit salute her work. The walls and shelves are adorned with mâché roosters, oxen, cows, and objects of everyday life: a jewelry box next to a trivet, in front of a painting.

‘Haitian culture,’ Charlotte continues, ‘that’s what we artists put into it. It is not static and it is this dynamism from which it draws all its charm.’

Paper mâché artist Charlotte shows off an intricate cow mask in Jacmel, Haiti
Paper mâché artist Charlotte in Jacmel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

“Work begins a whole year before the carnival”

The art of paper mâché is to mold shapes into paper hardened beforehand with a heated starch preparation. This technique, taught at the National School of Arts, is known throughout Haiti, but it has found its greatest success here in Jacmel.

The carnival held every year in the city (around Easter) attests to the success of this practice.Transmitted from generation to generation, the technique remains the same even though artists are free to experiment with size, shape and color. Masks, decoration of all kinds, aquatic fauna, political personalities, fictional characters – everything goes. In 1993, to illustrate a debate on deforestation, Soliosso Simonis disguised himself by transforming into a mango tree made of paper mâché. Around here, you could find a life-size zebra, painted bright red, right next to a representation of Fidel Castro.

Rivaling Haiti’s national carnival, the Jacmel Carnaval draws bigger crowds every year, partly because of the paper mâché art on display. Work begins a whole year before the carnival, designing the masks that will be on show on the front of the stands, on parade floats, and not least of all in the parade itself.

Artists in Jacmel, Haiti, working on paper mâché costumes
Artists in Jacmel working on paper mâché
Photo: Franck Fontain

For many people in Jacmel, paper mâché is a way to make a living – a real economic engine for the city and its surroundings. Children are immersed in the practice from a young age, and some go on to take up apprenticeships in local artisanal workshops. Downtown, several houses have been converted into shops, galleries, and / or open workshops where visitors can see the craft up close.

Paper mâché is more than just an artistic practice. Like painting, dance, and sculpture, it has become a vehicle for the expression of Haitian culture.


Written by Melissa Beralus.

Published March 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Port-au-Prince City Guide

Sunset over Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Sunset over Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

City Guide: Port-au-Prince

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Just a two-hour flight from Miami, Port-au-Prince will probably be your first stop in Haiti, and the best way to find the pulse of a country is to take a few steps in its capital city.

About 1 million people live in the metropolitan area, with another 1.5 million living on the surrounding hills and coastline. Although some areas are troubled (as with any populous city), Port-au-Prince has several upmarket districts where visitors can safely stay and explore on their own.

Group of Haitians on stage below the Petion-Ville library in Port-au-Prince
View from the Petion-Ville library
Photo: Anton Lau

The basics

Vacationers looking for a comfortable Caribbean holiday on a budget will find Port-au-Prince a great place to easily book hotels, rent cars, dine at a variety of restaurants, and head out to party on weekends. Those who are seeking more authentic accommodation in Haiti (such as Airbnb or staying with a host) need to be prepared for a few things – unpredictable power outages being the most important.

Once you’ve got that down, though, Port-au-Prince is a rich and colorful delight that keeps travellers coming back for more. There are so many pockets and places to explore, but we’ve got the essentials covered!

Colorful canvases on display along Rue Pinchinat, Petion-Ville
Paintings on display at Rue Pinchinat in Petion Ville
Photo: Franck Fontain

Art & Culture

Jacmel may be called the cultural capital of Haiti, but the streets of Port-au-Prince are overflowing with art and artist-led initiatives are thriving.

For an introduction to Haitian arts and crafts, we recommend walking along Place Saint-Pierre, especially the block surrounding Institution Saint-Joseph. Here, artisans arrive early to set up temporary displays of paintings, sculptures, woodwork and trinkets for you to browse and haggle over.

Champ de Mars is another key destination for Haitian handcrafts. The artisans here specialise in bold jewelry and leather goods such as sandals and bags. The stall owners are business people as well as artisans, so expect to haggle, but given the relative cost of living here it’s still easy to find a price that supports the artist and offers visitors a bargain.

If you want to visit an art gallery, we recommend Galerie Monnin in Laboule, as well as Carré Zémès in Thomassin. Both are open to the public and feature eclectic collections of work from Haitian artists working in paint, sculpture and other media.

Two people hiking a trail above Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Hiking above Port-au-Prince
Photo: Anton Lau

Urban adventure

Looking for a top-notch outdoors experience without leaving Port-au-Prince?

Fort Jacques is an easy, accessible option if you are looking to get some time in nature, or want to picnic with a view. If you drive up in a car, expect to pay locals a small fee for park maintenance, or for parking safety. For those who are looking to get some hiking under their belt, the Boukan waterfall is a great place to start. Make sure you head there with a guide – preferably someone from the area of Fermathe.

Other places to get a breath of fresh air are Boutillier, Obléon and Furcy – a bit farther out of Pétion-Ville, but definitely worth the drive. Remember to pack a jacket in case it gets chilly – up in the hills the temperature can drop surprisingly quickly!

Hang out with locals

In the mood for a morning, midday, or afternoon stroll? Port-au-Prince is full of public squares where you can soak up the tropical sun and Haiti’s vibrant island atmosphere.

If you are in Pétion-Ville, you have the choice between Place Boyer and Place Saint-Pierre. Downtown? Champ de Mars is the place to go! This is where most Haitians in the capital spend time between classes if they’re students, between shifts if they’re street vendors, or meeting friends en route.

At most squares you’ll find merchants selling street food and drinks. For an authentic Haitian treat – and relief from the Caribbean heat – look for a vendor selling snow-cones known as Fresko.

Group eating dinner at Yanvalou in Pacot, Haiti
Yanvalou in Pacot
Photo: Anton Lau

Food, drink, street life and nightlife

Where to eat

Hungry? With a diversity of cooking traditions and ingredients sourced from around the island, Port-au-Prince is Haiti’s culinary capital! Head over to La Coquille in Pétion-Ville for their Haitian food buffet, where you will be able to try the different types of rice and meats available that day, as well as a complimentary dessert.

If you are eager to try Haitian seafood, but haven’t yet scheduled your beach getaway, fear not! Vivano, also known as Coin des Artistes, is the place to go. Here, make sure you try the grilled fish, as well as the stewed fish, with a side of either crispy fried plantains or fried potatoes. If you happen to be in Haiti outside of lobster mating season (which runs officially from April 1st to June 30th), you will definitely want to try this Caribbean delicacy!

Karibe Hotel offers delicious Haitian cuisine in a more calm, relaxed, tropical setting. The hotel’s greenery transports you to an atmosphere outside of the city, letting you soak up those Caribbean island vibes without leaving Port-au-Prince.

Where to drink

Fancy a cocktail?

If you’re in Pétion-Ville, Fubar is a great place to start for all types of cocktails. Asu is a more high-end option, with delicious mojitos and a view to match. Downtown, Yanvalou has the best rum sours, and you will definitely want to stop at Gingerbread for their house-made cocktail mixes.

The beer standard in Haiti is an ice-cold (or byen frape, in Kreyòl) Prestige!

Where to party

Port-au-Prince is a nightlife powerhouse. While a variety of DJ parties happen every week, you can count on at least two events come rain or shine. The first is Live Groove on Thursdays at Yanvalou, in Pacot, and the second is Flashback Friday at Fubar, in Pétion-Ville.

If you are not able to make it to Yanvalou’s Live Groove or Fubar’s Flashback Friday, you can almost always catch a resident or rising DJ at a fan-favorite bar or restaurant – Asu, for example, often hosts young talent.

If you are more into live music, head over to Vivano or to Presse Café – both in Pétion-Ville – for the best in authentic troubadour or konpa music.

Haitian boy jumping into water at Bassin Général, Croix-des-Bouquets
People swimming at Bassin Général, Croix-des-Bouquets
Photo: Franck Fontain

Who should go?

If you only plan to visit one place in the Caribbean, Port-au-Prince offers intrepid travellers excellent value.

It’s the hub of activity in Haiti, and offers visitors a taste of everything this island has to offer: music, art and festivals for travellers looking to immerse themselves in a new culture; beaches and parties for a fun summer break; and peaceful, quiet corners for the solo-traveler. Port-au-Prince is also a great place to explore Haiti’s unique place in history as the first Caribbean nation to successfully throw off colonial rule.

A city finds its rhythm in the lives of its people – how will you dance along to daily life in Port-au-Prince during your stay?


Written by Kelly Paulemon.


Published March 2019


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