offroad driving

Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

July 18, 2020 by Anton Lau

haitians crossing the grande-anse river by foot and donkey — The Grande-Anse River
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

One of the country’s southernmost departments, and the home to cities like Jérémie and Abricots, Grand’Anse is where coastal cruising meets mainland adventures.

Between mountains and valleys, the people of the Grand’Anse department are open and eager to make a life for themselves. If you are ever hiking through a town outside the main cities, you will note that the trek some farmers and vendors accomplish to sell their goods every day is nothing short of a miracle.

older haitian man with machete and bag on head — A farmer on his way home from the field near Kafou Zaboka, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Modern infrastructure is not just a thing of Haiti’s big cities. In Jérémie, a massive bridge connects the two edges of the Grand’Anse river, allowing cars and motorcycles through, and for a very scenic drive.

traffic on large bridge crossing a big river — Bridge over Grande-Anse river to Jérémie, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

For those whose journeys are a little bit shorter, a brisk walk through the waters of the Grand’Anse river takes them straight to their destination. Farmers, vendors, and passersby can sometimes be seen quickly wading through, while early morning or late afternoon sunshine ripples over the water.

Some of these daily journeyers — when schools are open — are students. They often make the daily trip in small groups with their friends, to reach their schools in nearby cities. When school is out, they can be seen running and laughing down the same paths, in the soft summer heat.

haitian school boys in uniforms — Boys going to school near Moron, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The bridge in Marfranc is one of those places that is part of daily scenery for students living in the areas around it, but that can add excitement to any visitor’s tour of the Grand’Anse department.

haitian school girl in uniform walking over suspension bridge — School girl crossing a bridge in Marfranc, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

As with any place in rural Haiti, the Grand’Anse department is chock-full of hotel, inn, and bed-and-breakfast options for you to choose from. Not sure where to stay? Easy: ask a local!

motorcycle with passenger driving past hotel building — Cash-Cash Hotel in Dame Marie, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

For these coastal cities like Corail, the importance of local fishing cannot be overstated. Wholesaling and retailing is how many individuals make a living, put food on their tables, and on those of their customers.

haitian woman with red head scarf and bowl of conch — Woman selling conch in Corail, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The beauty of towns surrounding the Grand’Anse river is that they have learned to embrace and adapt to its natural architecture. All around the current, vegetable plots and small homes have sprouted, never so much as disturbing it.

aerial view of farmers fields, river, road and plantation — Landscape in Troupeau near Corail, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Fisher-men and -women alike are no strangers to the sharp art of scaling, gutting, and preparing fish in preparation for the day’s sales. The fresher, the better; often times, a morning catch will become a fried or stewed afternoon lunch or dinner.

haitian woman with straw hat cleaning fish — Woman cleaning a fish by the habour in Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Mountain towns hold their own busy and bustling communities, too. Farmers and vendors will make their way downhill to the main towns where they will bring and sell fresh produce. Schools often pop up in these remote areas as well, removing a burden off the backs of students who would otherwise struggle to afford tuition in cities like Jérémie, Abricots or Pestel.

haitian school building in mountainscape — A school in the mountains close to Jean Beurry, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The people of Grand’Anse hold hearts as vast and as open as their hometowns. If you are able to make the drive down there, it is an experience worth living and re-telling.

Haitian boys in the Joly Guibert village, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Kaskad Pichon

January 25, 2020 by admin

large haitian waterfall splashing into natural pool with people swimming — Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Belle-Anse
Photo: Franck Fontain

Kaskad Pichon

Kaskad Pichon is a stunning waterfall located in the commune of Belle-Anse, in the South-East Department of Haiti. The waterfall is notoriously hard to get to, but worth the adventure.

Belle-Anse commune is home to soft, sandy beaches, and Kaskad Pichon (French: Cascade Pichon) is the crowning jewel of its inland treasures. A cluster of three separate basins, each crowned by glorious waterfalls, Kaskad Pichon is sustained not by rainfall, but an underground lake.

The waterfall runs through three separate basins: Bassin Chouket, where wild mint grows and perfumes the banks of the pool, Bassin Dieula and Bassin Marassa.

The Haitian Kreyol proverb “dèyè mòn gen mòn” reflects the Haitian landscape – “behind mountains, there are more mountains”. Once in a while, though, in between these mountains, you’ll stumble upon a hidden gem (and travellers who’ve been here before know that Haiti is full of them). One such hidden gem is Kaskad Pichon, a waterfall that is as stunningly beautiful as it is notoriously hard to get to.

Visiting Kaskad Pichon might have you snapping pictures the entire time, or putting your phone down in awe — up to you, really! However you decided to take it in, a visit to Kaskad Pichon is an intimate wilderness experience that you’ll remember for years to come.

Three travellers wading in the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti — Travellers exploring the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to Kaskad Pichon

Kaskad Pichon is remote, and to get there, adventurers need to be prepared to drive (or hire a chauffeur), ride a motorcycle, and hike.

The drive to Belle-Anse, the main town of the area, is quite a trip in and of itself, on a gravel road that passes through floodplains, riverbeds, and up steep hillsides. If you drive from Marigot the trip to Belle-Anse should take about two or three hours. The town of Belle-Anse is interesting enough to spend a morning exploring, or at least stopping for lunch to re-energize before the most rugged part of the adventure.

From Belle-Anse, you’ll need to drive to Pichon, and from there it’s another hour’s drive to Kaskad Pichon. A motorcycle ride from Pichon to the waterfall should cost you about 1,000 HTG per person (roughly US $11).

The ride up to the waterfall is part of the experience – clinging for dear life on the back of a bike, you’ll be driving through some of the most pristine wilderness Haiti has to offer, with mile upon mile of sandy white beach unwinding below the path up the mountainside. If you can plan for it with your motorcycle drivers, we highly recommend you make a quick swim stop en route to take in the beauty offered by Haiti’s south. It’s also a great opportunity to uncover some extremely instagrammable spots – you might want to plan in a little extra time for that.

After an hour-long motorcycle ride, you’ll have to hike, following a guide, for roughly 40 minutes, before reaching the waterfalls.

Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published January 2020

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Fort Ogé

December 28, 2019 by admin

fort oge fortress on mountain top with ocean view — Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

This 200 year-old fortress site is cared for by the local community and offers visitors a personal tour through Haiti’s battle for independence

While most of us know the city of Jacmel as the picturesque home of Haitian art, culture, and popular beachfronts, it is also where you’ll find Fort Ogé.

Tiny compared to the towering Citadelle Laferrière, Fort Ogé often gets overlooked when it comes to adventurers’ itineraries, but comparisons aside, this fort is impressive and well worth exploring in its own right.

aerial view fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside — Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

Right around the time Haiti was seizing its independence from the slave-owning colonial upper class, resistance leaders like Jean-Jacques Dessalines ordered the construction of forts all over liberated territories, built to provide safe refuge for the newly freed people and to deter counteroffensives, in case the French returned and tried to retake the island. This era became known as the fortification of Haiti, and Fort Ogé, built in 1804, is one of about 20 military sites fortified during this period. Fort Ogé was named after Vincent Ogé, one of the most popular Haitian revolutionaries.

Fort Ogé was undamaged by the 2010 earthquake and stands strong to this day. Built over two centuries ago, the still-imposing fortress will have you asking “how?” – how did independence leaders know to build a fortress in such a strategic place, and how was it done with the limited tools available at the time? How did they carry multiple heavy canons up the slope to the fortress?

Compared to Citadelle Laferriere, the largest fortress in Haiti (and one of the largest fortresses in all of the Americas), Fort Ogé is not as swamped by tourists, making it a great destination if you came to Haiti looking for an adventure away from the crowds but accidentally found yourself here during peak season.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel — Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Guided tours

The real gem waiting to be discovered when you explore Fort Ogé is the history behind how it was built – hidden to most, but in plain sight for those who know how to look. This is why a personal guided tour is the best way to see the site – local guides can narrate the history of the fort as you explore, right down to the specific uses of the different dungeons.

As is the case at almost every landmark or sightseeing location in Haiti, children run around the site playing, and some members of local committees will most likely come up to greet you and show you around. The site is cared for and used by the residents of the area, as are many other national treasures, to help bridge the gap left behind by the Ministry of Culture. Locals are always ready to give a taste of true Haitian hospitality – which of course includes suggestions for where to get fed, what else you should see during your trip, and where to find the best entertainment.

You’ll find that at times where visitors are few and far between, the fort is an integral part of the townsfolk life; children play soccer there, and old folks wander around. By paying a small entry fee and/or hiring a personal guide, you’ll be contributing to the development of the area through community projects.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside — Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

Located about an hour east of Jacmel, Fort Ogé is close to other historical landmarks including Cap Rouge, as well as other top Haitian destinations like Bassin Bleu, Raymond le Bains beach and the charming fishing village of Marigot.

The easiest starting point to get to Fort Ogé is the city of Jacmel. If you are driving in your own car, start out towards Cayes-Jacmel. Once reach the Jacmel Airport (it will be on your left), make a left onto Avenue Gerald M. Mathurin. From there, it’s very simple; just follow the signs up to Fort Ogé! The road up to the fort is quite rough, though, and so your drive will be much more successful in a four-wheel drive vehicle.

If you do not have a car, don’t worry— you can still make it to the fort by moto! At the corner of the Jacmel Airport, you will find a throng of moto drivers, ready to go. The fee to get to the fort should be 500 HTG, and this should include your driver waiting for you at the fort— and therefore receiving payment from you when you are back in the city. Make sure to pick out a moto that can handle the rocky road and sharp inclines!

Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published December 2019

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Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

December 5, 2018 by Editor

Clouds gathering over the peak of Pic La Selle, Haiti — Clouds gathering over Pic La Selle
Photo: Anton Lau

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

This Kreyòl proverb means “Behind mountains, there are more mountains.” Hispaniola is one of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, and Pic La Selle is Haiti’s highest peak.

Part of the La Selle mountain range – which also extends into the Dominican Republic – Pic La Selle is over 8,700 feet, making it the highest mountain peak in Haiti, and the third highest in the Caribbean. If you’re the adventurous type, the La Selle range should be on your radar. A single-day climb affords panoramic views over the island of Hispaniola and out across the Caribbean.

Located in the south-east of the West department of Haiti, La Selle is accessible via the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquets, but also via the small town of Marigot, less than an hour’s drive from Jacmel. From there, the road gets rough, so it’s strongly recommended that you head to Pic La Selle with a 4-by-4.

The roads in Haiti, especially the mountainous ones, can be arduous, and if it is your first time going to Pic La Selle, it’s recommended that you hire a driver or at least a guide who knows the twists and turns in the road. Luckily, you’ll find guides who specialise in guiding hikes from city to summit.

Is the journey more important to you than the destination? You might prefer to hike or drive through the La Selle mountains via Furcy. This scenic route is lusher and the peaks and valleys more dramatic, and will appeal to nature-lovers who don’t necessarily want to scale Pic La Selle itself. Again, your best bet is to have someone on your team who has been before, or to make friends with a local. You can even arrange a guided tour on horseback.

Hiking through the dry coniferous forest, you’ll come to appreciate the saying “Dèyè mòn, gen mòn.” The mountains fold and unfold in front of you, seemingly to no end. Depending on the weather, they may be lanced with tufts of clouds, weaving between them.

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over the borderlands between Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic. This area is part of the expansive Transboundary La Selle-Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, a protected region showcasing the rich biodiversity shared between the two nations.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018

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Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

October 15, 2018 by Editor

Aerial view of the waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

A 40 minute drive out of the western city of Les Cayes, the waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June, but this is also when the road to get there is at its most – lets say adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon river that feeds Saut Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January – Haiti’s driest month- it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible – the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, full of exotic bird song blending in with the sound of the waterfall.

On the accessible side, there’s a cobblestone ledge to make it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim and is considered better even than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice cold, but on sunny days (practically all!) It’s worth it! A few hours is in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A climb up a side track leads to the top of the waterfall from where you have a wonderful view and access to some natural pools.

Les Cayes is one of the cities the most travellers don’t reach – Jacmel or Saint-Louis-du-Sud are closer to Port-au-Prince. If you manage to make it as far west as Les Cayes, make it a point to visit Saut Mathurine.

Waterfall at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine waterfall, Haiti
Photo: Ricardo Lartigue

Getting there

Saut Mathurine is off the beaten path for most travellers – quite literally. The road is unpaved and you’ll need a 4×4 to get there, but it’s worth the bumpy ride. You can hire 4×4 vehicles in Les Cayes. If you’re not used to driving on rough roads, ask if the car company can provide an experienced driver as well. If you enjoy driving off-road though, getting there is an absolute adventure.

Access to the waterfall is via a park entrance – a gap in the wall with a small office to the side. The entrance fee for travellers is 100 Haitian gourdes. Inside the walls, there’s much more to discover than the waterfall itself – you can walk along the riverside and around steps carved into or laid around the otherwise wild jungle. There is a boutique selling local crafts and a restaurant on site.

Turquoise pool at Saut Mathurine, Haiti — Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018

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Getting around Haiti: How to Moto

October 12, 2018 by Editor

Moto driver smiling in Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Moto driver in Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Frank Fontain

Getting around Haiti: How to Moto

Need a taxi? You won’t find big yellow cabs in Haiti but there will be one – or seven – “motos” ready to help you get around. Here’s how to spot one, flag one down, negotiate a fare and travel like a pro.

What is a moto?

The “moto”, short for motorcycle, is the most convenient mode of public transportation, picking you up and dropping you off at your precise location. Motos are a great alternative to the other popular form of public transport you’ll find: the Tap-Tap (literally “Quick-quick”), the cheerfully-painted minibuses that serve as share taxis which follow a predetermined route.

If you think you need a Tap-Tap because a moto won’t be able to fit your luggage on it, think again. 50-gallon drums, livestock, shelving units, solar panels, a family of five, construction materials, and another moto, are just some of the things that may be transported on a moto. It’s unlikely you’ll carry more than any moto in Haiti can handle.

Moto taxis in traffic in Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Moto Taxis in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to spot a moto

How can you tell which motorcycles are moto taxis? The simple answer is: you can’t, at first. There isn’t anything obvious that indicates which motorcycles are on the street to work as taxis and which are being used for private transportation. However, there are subtle things you can look for so that you don’t have to go around waving at every motorcycle that goes by. Here is a list of things to look for:

Moto taxi drivers are male. There are a few female motorcyclists, but if you see one, she probably isn’t a taxi driver. If she is a moto taxi driver, she might be Haiti’s first.
Moto taxi drivers are looking for you. They are scanning the sides of the roads, looking for a passenger. Usually people that are not a taxi, just look straight ahead at the road.
Moto taxi drivers won’t be in a uniform. Uniforms are for school or work, and if the driver of a moto is wearing a uniform, you can bet he isn’t a taxi.
Moto taxi drivers wear shoes, not sandals. The good ones wear glasses and a hat too.
Moto taxi drivers won’t have a backpack, tools, or other items carried on the moto.
Moto taxi drivers will stop when you wave them down.

Moto driver crossing suspension bridge in Haiti — Moto driver on bridge
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

How to flag a moto and negotiate a fare

To flag a moto down you simply wave your hand and, if the driver is available to pick you up, he will pull over for you. Before you swing a leg onto the moto, it’s important to negotiate the fare for your journey so that there is no misunderstanding between you and the driver when you arrive at your destination.

Be sure to verbalize which currency you are negotiating in so that there isn’t a mix up between the Haitian gourdes and the Haitian dollar, or the Haitian dollar and the US dollar. It is always best to have the correct change, as the drivers often don’t have change, or at least they might try to say they don’t have change, in hopes of being able to keep yours.

Once you’ve agreed on a destination and a fare, you want to hold onto your money (don’t pay your driver until you have arrived) and hop on the moto.

Moto driver in Port-au-Prince, Haiti — Moto driver
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The right way to get on a moto

Make sure you stand on the left side of the moto and swing your right leg over. If you try to get on from the right side, you are likely to burn your leg on the muffler. That 3-inch diameter burn on your leg will scream “rookie” to the locals.

Be like the old pros and get on from the left side. There should be pegs by the back wheel for you to put your feet on and usually a small bar at the back of the seat for you to hold on to. Once you’re comfortable, the driver will depart, ready to take you wherever you need to go in Haiti.

It may sound strange compared to what you’re used to, but for Haitians the moto is a way of life. So wave one down, negotiate a price, hop on from the left side, and enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of the streets, with a little wind in your hair, until you’ve reached your target location. It’s the quickest, easiest, and best way of getting around Haiti.

Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published October 2018

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offroad driving

Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

One of the country’s southernmost departments, and the home to cities like Jérémie and Abricots, Grand’Anse is where coastal cruising meets mainland adventures.

The Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Haiti

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Kaskad Pichon

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Haitian Cultural Traditions You Didn’t Know About

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Explore Fort Ogé

This 200 year-old fortress site is cared for by the local community and offers visitors a personal tour through Haiti’s battle for independence

Explore Fort Ogé

Guided tours

Getting there

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Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

Explore the South of Haiti

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Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

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A Visual Guide to Vodou Symbols

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Jump into Saut-Mathurine – Haiti’s Biggest Waterfall

The south coast is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and Saut-Mathurine, Haiti’s largest waterfall, is one of them.

A hidden world

Getting there

Find Saut-Mathurine

External Links

A Visual Guide to Vodou Symbols

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Paradise for your inbox

Getting around Haiti: How to Moto

Need a taxi? You won’t find big yellow cabs in Haiti but there will be one – or seven – “motos” ready to help you get around. Here’s how to spot one, flag one down, negotiate a fare and travel like a pro.

What is a moto?

How to spot a moto

How to flag a moto and negotiate a fare

The right way to get on a moto

Your pocket guide to Cap-Haïtien

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A Visual Guide to
Vodou Symbols

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