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Dive Into the Wild Beauty of Saut-Mathurine

Saut-Mathurine waterfall in Camp-Perrin
Photo: Anton Lau

Dive Into the Wild Beauty of Saut-Mathurine

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A Hidden World

Located in the commune of Camp-Perrin, Saut-Mathurine is a 40-minute drive from the western city of Les Cayes. The waterfall is at its most spectacular around May and June — but this is also when the road to get there is at its most — let’s say, adventurous.

During the rainy season, the Cavaillon River that feeds Saut-Mathurine flows powerfully, and you can hear the crashing falls from a distance. In January — Haiti’s driest month — it may not be running at all, but the pool is still a gorgeous place to swim, and the jungle scenery is every bit as lush and dramatic as during the rains.

Saut-Mathurine runs through a ravine, and the scene is something out of Jurassic Park: the waterfall thunders into a pristine pool of bright aqua waters, almost green but crystal-clear. Half of the pool is accessible — the other is jagged rock cliffs frothing with jungle trees, vines, and moss. At the far end from the waterfall, water cascades over the edge of the pool and becomes rapids that continue on through the ravine. The ridges of the ravine overflow with towering native forest, echoing with the calls of local birdlife like the Hispaniolan Trogon (Kanson Wouj), Greater Antillean Grackle, and Hispaniolan Oriole.

On the accessible side, there’s a stone ledge that makes it easier to get right up close to the water’s edge without falling in. But bring swimwear! Saut-Mathurine is a fantastic place to swim — often described by locals as even better than Gelée Beach.

The water is ice-cold, but on sunny days (which is most of them), it’s absolutely worth it. A few hours in this paradise is enough to wash away six months of working way too hard on whatever it is that you do.

A steep trail leads to the top of the waterfall, offering views over the valley and access to a few natural pools. Fewer people know that a second waterfall — smaller but still stunning — lies further upriver, with a large, secluded pool that’s rarely visited. Beyond that is the Bassin Mahaut hydroelectric plant, which remarkably supplies Camp-Perrin with 24-hour electricity — a rarity in Haiti.

Hidden waterfall near Saut-Mathurine in Camp-Perrin
Photo: Anton Lau

Know Before You Go

  • You’ll need a 4×4 or moto taxi to reach Saut-Mathurine. The road hasn’t been improved in years, and it’s rugged, especially during the rainy season. If you’re not used to driving off-road, it’s best to hire a driver from Les Cayes or Camp-Perrin.

  • Entrance is 250 gourdes, paid at the small park office by the gate. There are no restrooms or shops, and the once-operational restaurant and boutique are now closed — so come prepared.

  • Local guides are available at the entrance and will usually approach you first. If you don’t clearly choose one and ask the others to step back, you might find yourself with several guides expecting payment at the end. To avoid confusion, pick your guide (or guides), agree on a price upfront, and make sure you have the right cash on hand. A fair rate is between 500 and 1000 gourdes.

  • Coconut vendors — usually young local guys — often hang out near the waterfall. A fair price is 250 gourdes per coconut, which they’ll crack open with a machete so you can drink the water. Afterward, they’ll split it in half and carve out a spoon from the husk so you can scoop up the sweet pulp — one of the simplest and most refreshing treats in the area.

  • Bring swimwear, drinking water, sunscreen, and sturdy shoes. There’s a steep trail to the top of the falls, where you’ll find natural pools and even a second, hidden waterfall further upriver. The hike is worth it — but only if you’re prepared.

  • Don’t rush it. Saut-Mathurine is the kind of place best enjoyed slowly, with time to explore, swim, or just sit and listen to the water and birds.

Getting there

Saut-Mathurine is still off the beaten path — quite literally. The road remains unpaved and in poor condition, so you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle to reach the site safely. Vehicles can be rented in Les Cayes, though if you’re not used to rough terrain, it’s worth asking for a local driver who knows the route well. While the journey is rugged, the reward at the end is undeniable.

Once inside, visitors can follow footpaths that wind through the lush jungle and along the river’s edge. While the restaurant and craft boutique mentioned in older guides are no longer operational, the natural beauty of the site remains intact — and wonderfully uncommercialized.

Turquoise pool at Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Saut Mathurine, Haiti
Photo: Verdy Verna

Stay the Night and Explore Pic Macaya

If you’re thinking of sticking around a little longer, Camp-Perrin is a good place to base yourself. It’s quiet, friendly, and close to everything. There are a few small hotels in town — nothing fancy, but enough to get a good night’s sleep. We recommend Villaggio Guest House if you’re looking for something pocket-friendly. The rooms have air conditioning, and the owners are used to hosting travelers heading out to the falls or the mountains.

Not many people make it all the way out to Les Cayes, but that’s slowly starting to change. These days, more travelers are flying into Cap-Haïtien and skipping Port-au-Prince altogether. If you do make it out here, you’ll see why it’s worth the trip. From Saut-Mathurine, it’s just a short ride to one of Haiti’s most incredible natural wonders — Pic Macaya National Park.

You’ll actually spot Macaya mountain on the drive down to the waterfall — rising up in the distance, quiet and covered in mist. It’s Haiti’s second-highest peak, and the national park around it is the biggest biodiversity hotspot in the country. Think hundreds of orchids, rare frogs, bright birds, and trees you won’t find anywhere else. Scientists are still discovering new species up there. If you like hiking, birdwatching, nature, or just being surrounded by green, this is the place.

Spend a night or two in Camp-Perrin, and take your time. Between the waterfall and the mountains, there’s more to see here than you might expect — and plenty of space to breathe.

Want to keep chasing waterfalls? Here are some of the prettiest falls in Haiti worth adding to your itinerary.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published October 2018.
Updated March 2025.


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How to Ride a Moto Taxi in Haiti Like a Local

Motocycle driver smiling in Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Moto driver in Petion-Ville, Port-au-Prince
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to Ride a Moto Taxi in Haiti Like a Local

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If you’ve spent any time in Haitian cities like Les Cayes, Jacmel, or Cap-Haïtien, you’ve probably noticed one thing—moto taxis are everywhere. Whether zipping through city streets, cruising to Haiti’s breathtaking waterfalls, or navigating the chaos of market day, motos are the lifeblood of transportation in Haiti.

They’re fast, cheap, and available on every corner, making them the go-to choice for locals and travelers alike. But if it’s your first time hopping on the back of a moto, there are a few things you need to know. From spotting a moto taxi to negotiating fares and avoiding rookie mistakes (like burning your leg on the muffler—ouch!), we’ve got you covered.

Ready to ride? Here’s everything you need to know before you flag down your first moto in Haiti.

What is a Moto?

The moto—short for motorcycle taxi—is the fastest, most convenient form of public transportation in Haiti. Unlike Tap-Taps, the brightly painted shared minibuses that follow fixed routes, motos take you exactly where you need to go—fast.

Think you need a Tap-Tap because a moto won’t handle your luggage? Think again. Motos in Haiti carry everything: 50-gallon drums, livestock, shelving units, solar panels, a family of five, construction materials—even another moto. It’s unlikely you’ll carry more than any moto in Haiti can handle.

Moto taxis in traffic in Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Moto Taxis in Port-au-Prince
Photo: Frank Fontain

How to Spot a Moto Taxi

How can you tell which motorcycles are moto taxis? Short answer: You can’t. Not at first. There’s no official sign, no special color, no uniform to set them apart. But if you know what to look for, you won’t have to wave down every motorcycle that passes.

Here’s what gives them away:

  • Moto taxi drivers are looking for you. Unlike regular riders who keep their eyes on the road, moto taxi drivers scan the sidewalks for potential passengers.
  • They travel light. A moto taxi driver won’t have a backpack, tools, or grocery bags strapped to their bike.
  • They wear shoes. Not flip-flops. The good ones also wear glasses and a hat.
  • They stop when you wave. The easiest way to know? Wave at them. If they slow down, you’ve got your ride. If they keep going, they weren’t a taxi.
  • They don’t wear uniforms. In Haiti, uniforms are for school or work—if you see a rider in one, they’re probably not a taxi driver.

One thing you won’t see? A helmet for passengers. Unlike in Cuba or the Dominican Republic, Haitian moto drivers almost never carry an extra helmet—so get ready for a wind-in-your-hair experience.

colorful motorcycle at haitian market
Moto taxi driver in Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

How to Flag a Moto and Negotiate a Fare

Waving down a moto is as simple as a quick hand gesture—if the driver is available, he’ll pull over.

Before you hop on, talk money. Always negotiate the fare upfront to avoid surprises. And here’s a crucial tip: be very clear about which currency you’re discussing. Haitian gourdes? Haitian dollars? US dollars? Mixing them up is a classic mistake—and trust us, it’s not one you want to make.

Read more about money and costs in Haiti right here!

Pro tip: Carry small bills and exact change. Some drivers genuinely don’t have change, while others claim they don’t—either way, handing over too big a bill means you might not get anything back.

Unlike in other countries, you won’t find Uber, Lyft, or Bolt in Haiti. If you don’t want to flag down a random driver, ask your hotel or host to recommend a trusted moto taxi and help you negotiate the fare.

Once you’ve settled on the price, hold onto your money (you don’t pay until you arrive), and get ready to ride.

Moto taxis aren’t just for getting around town—they’re also one of the best ways to reach Haiti’s stunning beaches. Whether you’re heading to Raymond Les Bains in Jacmel or one of Cap-Haïtien’s many beaches, hopping on a moto lets you take in the scenery while skipping the hassle of traffic.

Moto taxi in Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The Right Way to Get on a Moto

One of the easiest ways to spot a first-time moto rider? The big round burn on their calf. That’s what happens when you mount from the right side and accidentally press your leg against the scorching-hot muffler.

Here’s how to do it the right way:

  • Always mount from the left side—swing your right leg over.
  • Feet go on the pegs near the back wheel.
  • Hold onto the small bar behind the seat for stability.

Got a younger driver who’s going too fast? Tell them to slow down: “Dousman, zanmim!” (Slow down, my friend!)

Once you’re set, your driver will take off, weaving through the streets while you soak in the vibrant energy of Haiti—wind in your hair, adventure at your fingertips.

Moto taxis aren’t just a way to get around in Haiti; they’re part of the experience. So flag one down, negotiate smartly, hop on like a pro, and enjoy the ride.

Moto driver crossing suspension bridge in Haiti
Moto driver on bridge in Marfranc
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Written by Sarah Wallace.

Published October 2018.
Updated March 2025.


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cosmogram being traces on floor with hand holding a candle

Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

haitians crossing the grande-anse river by foot and donkey
The Grande-Anse River
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Photo Journal: Grand’Anse

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Between mountains and valleys, the people of the Grand’Anse department are open and eager to make a life for themselves. If you are ever hiking through a town outside the main cities, you will note that the trek some farmers and vendors accomplish to sell their goods every day is nothing short of a miracle.

older haitian man with machete and bag on head
A farmer on his way home from the field near Kafou Zaboka, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Modern infrastructure is not just a thing of Haiti’s big cities. In Jérémie, a massive bridge connects the two edges of the Grand’Anse river, allowing cars and motorcycles through, and for a very scenic drive.

traffic on large bridge crossing a big river
Bridge over Grande-Anse river to Jérémie, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

For those whose journeys are a little bit shorter, a brisk walk through the waters of the Grand’Anse river takes them straight to their destination. Farmers, vendors, and passersby can sometimes be seen quickly wading through, while early morning or late afternoon sunshine ripples over the water.

haitians crossing the grande-anse river by foot and donkey
People passing through the Grande-Anse River near Fouache
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Some of these daily journeyers — when schools are open — are students. They often make the daily trip in small groups with their friends, to reach their schools in nearby cities. When school is out, they can be seen running and laughing down the same paths, in the soft summer heat.

haitian school boys in uniforms
Boys going to school near Moron, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The bridge in Marfranc is one of those places that is part of daily scenery for students living in the areas around it, but that can add excitement to any visitor’s tour of the Grand’Anse department.

haitian school girl in uniform walking over suspension bridge
School girl crossing a bridge in Marfranc, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

As with any place in rural Haiti, the Grand’Anse department is chock-full of hotel, inn, and bed-and-breakfast options for you to choose from. Not sure where to stay? Easy: ask a local!

motorcycle with passenger driving past hotel building
Cash-Cash Hotel in Dame Marie, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

For these coastal cities like Corail, the importance of local fishing cannot be overstated. Wholesaling and retailing is how many individuals make a living, put food on their tables, and on those of their customers.

haitian woman with red head scarf and bowl of conch
Woman selling conch in Corail, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The beauty of towns surrounding the Grand’Anse river is that they have learned to embrace and adapt to its natural architecture. All around the current, vegetable plots and small homes have sprouted, never so much as disturbing it.

aerial view of farmers fields, river, road and plantation
Landscape in Troupeau near Corail, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Fisher-men and -women alike are no strangers to the sharp art of scaling, gutting, and preparing fish in preparation for the day’s sales. The fresher, the better; often times, a morning catch will become a fried or stewed afternoon lunch or dinner.

haitian woman with straw hat cleaning fish
Woman cleaning a fish by the habour in Pestel
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

Mountain towns hold their own busy and bustling communities, too. Farmers and vendors will make their way downhill to the main towns where they will bring and sell fresh produce. Schools often pop up in these remote areas as well, removing a burden off the backs of students who would otherwise struggle to afford tuition in cities like Jérémie, Abricots or Pestel.

haitian school building in mountainscape
A school in the mountains close to Jean Beurry, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen

The people of Grand’Anse hold hearts as vast and as open as their hometowns. If you are able to make the drive down there, it is an experience worth living and re-telling.

Haitian boys in the Joly Guibert village, Grand’Anse
Photo: Mikkel Ulriksen
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Kaskad Pichon

large haitian waterfall splashing into natural pool with people swimming
Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Belle-Anse
Photo: Franck Fontain

Kaskad Pichon

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Kaskad Pichon is a stunning waterfall located in the commune of Belle-Anse, in the South-East Department of Haiti. The waterfall is notoriously hard to get to, but worth the adventure.

Belle-Anse commune is home to soft, sandy beaches, and Kaskad Pichon (French: Cascade Pichon) is the crowning jewel of its inland treasures. A cluster of three separate basins, each crowned by glorious waterfalls, Kaskad Pichon is sustained not by rainfall, but an underground lake.

The waterfall runs through three separate basins: Bassin Chouket, where wild mint grows and perfumes the banks of the pool, Bassin Dieula and Bassin Marassa.

The Haitian Kreyol proverb “dèyè mòn gen mòn” reflects the Haitian landscape – “behind mountains, there are more mountains”. Once in a while, though, in between these mountains, you’ll stumble upon a hidden gem (and travellers who’ve been here before know that Haiti is full of them). One such hidden gem is Kaskad Pichon, a waterfall that is as stunningly beautiful as it is notoriously hard to get to.

Visiting Kaskad Pichon might have you snapping pictures the entire time, or putting your phone down in awe — up to you, really! However you decided to take it in, a visit to Kaskad Pichon is an intimate wilderness experience that you’ll remember for years to come.

Three travellers wading in the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Travellers exploring the Kaskad Pichon waterfalls, Haiti
Photo: Franck Fontain

Getting to Kaskad Pichon

Kaskad Pichon is remote, and to get there, adventurers need to be prepared to drive (or hire a chauffeur), ride a motorcycle, and hike.

The drive to Belle-Anse, the main town of the area, is quite a trip in and of itself, on a gravel road that passes through floodplains, riverbeds, and up steep hillsides. If you drive from Marigot the trip to Belle-Anse should take about two or three hours. The town of Belle-Anse is interesting enough to spend a morning exploring, or at least stopping for lunch to re-energize before the most rugged part of the adventure.

From Belle-Anse, you’ll need to drive to Pichon, and from there it’s another hour’s drive to Kaskad Pichon. A motorcycle ride from Pichon to the waterfall should cost you about 1,000 HTG per person (roughly US $11).

The ride up to the waterfall is part of the experience – clinging for dear life on the back of a bike, you’ll be driving through some of the most pristine wilderness Haiti has to offer, with mile upon mile of sandy white beach unwinding below the path up the mountainside. If you can plan for it with your motorcycle drivers, we highly recommend you make a quick swim stop en route to take in the beauty offered by Haiti’s south. It’s also a great opportunity to uncover some extremely instagrammable spots – you might want to plan in a little extra time for that.

After an hour-long motorcycle ride, you’ll have to hike, following a guide, for roughly 40 minutes, before reaching the waterfalls.


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published January 2020


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Fort Ogé

fort oge fortress on mountain top with ocean view
Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

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While most of us know the city of Jacmel as the picturesque home of Haitian art, culture, and popular beachfronts, it is also where you’ll find Fort Ogé.

Tiny compared to the towering Citadelle Laferrière, Fort Ogé often gets overlooked when it comes to adventurers’ itineraries, but comparisons aside, this fort is impressive and well worth exploring in its own right.

aerial view fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside
Fort Ogè, Jacmel
Photo: Anton Lau

Explore Fort Ogé

Right around the time Haiti was seizing its independence from the slave-owning colonial upper class, resistance leaders like Jean-Jacques Dessalines ordered the construction of forts all over liberated territories, built to provide safe refuge for the newly freed people and to deter counteroffensives, in case the French returned and tried to retake the island. This era became known as the fortification of Haiti, and Fort Ogé, built in 1804, is one of about 20 military sites fortified during this period. Fort Ogé was named after Vincent Ogé, one of the most popular Haitian revolutionaries.

Fort Ogé was undamaged by the 2010 earthquake and stands strong to this day. Built over two centuries ago, the still-imposing fortress will have you asking “how?” – how did independence leaders know to build a fortress in such a strategic place, and how was it done with the limited tools available at the time? How did they carry multiple heavy canons up the slope to the fortress?

Compared to Citadelle Laferriere, the largest fortress in Haiti (and one of the largest fortresses in all of the Americas), Fort Ogé is not as swamped by tourists, making it a great destination if you came to Haiti looking for an adventure away from the crowds but accidentally found yourself here during peak season.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel
Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Guided tours

The real gem waiting to be discovered when you explore Fort Ogé is the history behind how it was built – hidden to most, but in plain sight for those who know how to look. This is why a personal guided tour is the best way to see the site – local guides can narrate the history of the fort as you explore, right down to the specific uses of the different dungeons.

As is the case at almost every landmark or sightseeing location in Haiti, children run around the site playing, and some members of local committees will most likely come up to greet you and show you around. The site is cared for and used by the residents of the area, as are many other national treasures, to help bridge the gap left behind by the Ministry of Culture. Locals are always ready to give a taste of true Haitian hospitality – which of course includes suggestions for where to get fed, what else you should see during your trip, and where to find the best entertainment.

You’ll find that at times where visitors are few and far between, the fort is an integral part of the townsfolk life; children play soccer there, and old folks wander around. By paying a small entry fee and/or hiring a personal guide, you’ll be contributing to the development of the area through community projects.

ruins of haitian fort oge fortress in jacmel with football field inside
Fort Ogè
Photo: Anton Lau

Getting there

Located about an hour east of Jacmel, Fort Ogé is close to other historical landmarks including Cap Rouge, as well as other top Haitian destinations like Bassin BleuRaymond le Bains beach and the charming fishing village of Marigot.

The easiest starting point to get to Fort Ogé is the city of Jacmel. If you are driving in your own car, start out towards Cayes-Jacmel. Once reach the Jacmel Airport (it will be on your left), make a left onto Avenue Gerald M. Mathurin. From there, it’s very simple; just follow the signs up to Fort Ogé! The road up to the fort is quite rough, though, and so your drive will be much more successful in a four-wheel drive vehicle.

If you do not have a car, don’t worry— you can still make it to the fort by moto! At the corner of the Jacmel Airport, you will find a throng of moto drivers, ready to go. The fee to get to the fort should be 500 HTG, and this should include your driver waiting for you at the fort— and therefore receiving payment from you when you are back in the city. Make sure to pick out a moto that can handle the rocky road and sharp inclines!


Written by Kira Paulemon.

Published December 2019


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

Clouds gathering over the peak of Pic La Selle, Haiti
Clouds gathering over Pic La Selle
Photo: Anton Lau

Scale the peak of Pic La Selle

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“Dèyè mòn, gen mòn”

This Kreyòl proverb means “Behind mountains, there are more mountains.” Hispaniola is one of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, and Pic La Selle is Haiti’s highest peak.

Part of the La Selle mountain range – which also extends into the Dominican Republic – Pic La Selle is over 8,700 feet, making it the highest mountain peak in Haiti, and the third highest in the Caribbean. If you’re the adventurous type, the La Selle range should be on your radar. A single-day climb affords panoramic views over the island of Hispaniola and out across the Caribbean.

Located in the south-east of the West department of Haiti, La Selle is accessible via the neighborhood of Croix-des-Bouquets, but also via the small town of Marigot, less than an hour’s drive from Jacmel. From there, the road gets rough, so it’s strongly recommended that you head to Pic La Selle with a 4-by-4.

The roads in Haiti, especially the mountainous ones, can be arduous, and if it is your first time going to Pic La Selle, it’s recommended that you hire a driver or at least a guide who knows the twists and turns in the road. Luckily, you’ll find guides who specialise in guiding hikes from city to summit.

Is the journey more important to you than the destination? You might prefer to hike or drive through the La Selle mountains via Furcy. This scenic route is lusher and the peaks and valleys more dramatic, and will appeal to nature-lovers who don’t necessarily want to scale Pic La Selle itself. Again, your best bet is to have someone on your team who has been before, or to make friends with a local. You can even arrange a guided tour on horseback.

Hiking through the dry coniferous forest, you’ll come to appreciate the saying “Dèyè mòn, gen mòn.” The mountains fold and unfold in front of you, seemingly to no end. Depending on the weather, they may be lanced with tufts of clouds, weaving between them.

Getting there: Gros Cheval to Pic la Selle

A round trip takes between 8 and 12 hours. If you’ve arranged your guides the night before, you can leave Gros Cheval at 5am, driving for another hour into the forest before parking the car and starting the hike. The path will be uneven in places but no rock climbing is required. Taking a guide is still very much recommended because the path is often unclear or invisible.

The ascent takes around 3-6 hours depending on your fitness, and takes you over a ridge and four smaller peaks before you reach Pic la Selle proper. At over 8000 feet, those who are up for the adventure will be rewarded with spectacular views over the dramatic landscape of Hispaniola, looking over the borderlands between Haiti and the Bahoruco mountain range in the Dominican Republic. This area is part of the expansive Transboundary La Selle-Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, a protected region showcasing the rich biodiversity shared between the two nations.

The return trip to Gros Cheval is a little quicker, and if you arranged it in advance you’ll find an evening meal waiting for you.


Written by Kelly Paulemon.

Published December 2018


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old colonial houses on city street in jacmel